06 Aug 1864 - THE NEW SETTLEMENT AT ROCKINGHAM BAY.

Match text 0

Original
Corrected

Line Above	{LINE ABOVE}
Current Line	{CURRENT LINE} Remove Insert line below Insert line above Duplicate this line Move line up Move line down
Line below	{LINE BELOW}

Loading article contents, please wait...

Sat 6 Aug 1864 - The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933)
Page 5 - THE NEW SETTLEMENT AT ROCKINGHAM BAY.

THE following interesting narrative, written

by Mr G. E. Dalrymple, and addressed to His

Excellency Sir George Bowen, has been for-

warded to us for publication :—

Brisbane, August 1, 1864,

To His Excellency Sir George Ferguson

Bowen, K.G.C.M.G., &c., &c., &c.

Sir,—I do myself the honor to inform your

Line 1.7.0Excellency, that I have succeeded in discovering
Line 1.7.1and opening a practicable dray road from
Line 1.7.2Rockingham Bay to the interior at the Valley
Line 1.7.3of Lagoons, and have, in conjunction with my
Line 1.7.4partner, Mr. A. J. Scott, established a new
Line 1.7.5alignment in connection therewith, on the
Line 1.7.6shores of Port Hinchinbrook, in Rockingham

Bay.

Line 1.9.0Being myself perfectly satisfied of the pos-
Line 1.9.1sibility of finding a road, and being also of
Line 1.9.2opinion that my labors would be much curtailed

Line 1.10.0by the establishment of a safe basis of opera-
Line 1.10.1tions on the seaboard, and by a general view of
Line 1.10.2the whole face of the coast ranges from the en-
Line 1.10.3trance to Rockingham Bay—so as to enable me
Line 1.10.4to detect a spot where a pass might with the
Line 1.10.5greatest ease be obtained on to the table land—
Line 1.10.6we decided to proceed by sea, with a full equip-

ment for the purpose, to form a settlement on

these waters, and to endeavor to force a passage

thence to the interior.

Line 1.13.0We therefore charted, at Port Denison, the
Line 1.13.1schooner Policeman (master and owner, Walter
Line 1.13.2Powell), and on the 12th January, 1864, shipped
Line 1.13.3horses, sheep, stores, materials for buildings,
Line 1.13.4&c., and prepared for sea.

Line 1.14.0Our party numbered twenty souls, amougst
Line 1.14.1whom were :—Mr. Arthur J. Scott, Mr. Tully,
Line 1.14.2C.C.L., Lieutenant Marlow, (Queensland native
Line 1.14.3police), Mr Selheim, (squatter), Mr. George M.

Line 1.15.0Farquharson, (of Invercauld, in Aberdeenshire),
Line 1.15.1Mr Dallachy, (a botanist, sent to accompany me
Line 1.15.2by Dr. Müller, of Melbourne), James Morrill,
Line 1.15.3(seventeen years with the aborigenes, as inter-
Line 1.15.4preter), J. Morrissey, (hotel keeper), T. F.
Line 1.15.5Milne, (storekeeper), Wilhelm Peters (car-

penter), Walter Butler, E. Kerr, R. Ewart,

&c., &c.

Line 1.17.0On the 15th of January, the Policeman,
Line 1.17.1with our small cutter, the Heather Bell, of three
Line 1.17.2tons, in tow, was at length clear of Port
Line 1.17.3Denison Heads, whence we experienced a most
Line 1.17.4tedious and uncomfortable passage to the north-
Line 1.17.5ward, having to Iive on deck under a burning
Line 1.17.6sun, and exposed to heavy squalls of wind and
Line 1.17.7drenching rain, alternating with light and con-
Line 1.17.8trary winds ; the vessel crowded beyond its
Line 1.17.9capacity with men, horses and cargo.

Line 1.18.0On the 18th January, we brought up under
Line 1.18.1the high land of the west side of Cape Cleve-
Line 1.18.2land, and went on shore for water and grass,
Line 1.18.3both of which we obtained behind a sandy
Line 1.18.4beach one mile and a half inside the aape at a
Line 1.18.5spot which I had visited on my expedition in the
Line 1.18.6Spitfire in 1860.

Line 1.19.0A fair wind coming up from the south east
Line 1.19.1during the night, on the morning of the 19th
Line 1.19.2we passed the Palm Islands on our port beam,
Line 1.19.3and sighted the lofty rugged masses of Hinchin-

brook Island to north-north-west, its summits

shrouded in clouds.

Line 1.21.0As we ran down its eastern side before the
Line 1.21.1fresh south-easter, the clouds rose majestically
Line 1.21.2from the extraordinary jagged peaks and pin-
Line 1.21.3nacies, which towered high above us to the
Line 1.21.4height of 2500 feet sheer out of the ocean, in
Line 1.21.5bluffs and precipices of grey granite rock—the
Line 1.21.6deep fissures and gorges furrowing their sides
Line 1.21.7right down to the rock-bound shore, lashed by
Line 1.21.8the ever restless surge of the Pacific, being fre-
Line 1.21.9quently clothed with picturesque groups of pines
Line 1.21.10—(Araucaria cookii), dense scrubs, and forest

trees.

Towards the north end of the island, the

mountains descend in more regular slopes,

Line 1.24.0clothed with open forest from the sandy beach
Line 1.24.1to their summits ; Mount Bowen, Mount Bur-
Line 1.24.2nett, and Mount Pitt again rising to an eleva-
Line 1.24.3tion of from 2000 to 2300 feet.

Passing rapidly the high rocky headland of

Line 1.26.0Cape Sandwich—which is connected with the
Line 1.26.1mainland of Hinchinbrook Island by a low spit
Line 1.26.2of desert sand hills—we passed between the
Line 1.26.3long, low, rocky, pine-clad Brook Islands on our
Line 1.26.4starboard side, and the forest clad peak of
Line 1.26.5Goold Island, 1375 feet in height, on our port

beam.

Keeping away westerly, close under the

norther declivity — the whole of Rockingham

Line 1.29.0Bay broke suddenly upon our view, backed by
Line 1.29.1its imposing continuous blue lofty ranges of
Line 1.29.2mountains of from 2500 to 400 feet elevation—
Line 1.29.3rising abruptly from a level forest-clad low
Line 1.29.4country, from which numerous smokes of bush
Line 1.29.5fires of the natives curled upwards into the clear
Line 1.29.6blue sky.

Line 1.30.0These ranges met the lofty mass of Hinchin
Line 1.30.1brook to the south east and eastward, and
Line 1.30.2stretched far away into the northern horizon.
Line 1.30.3The field of our labours was before us , but this
Line 1.30.4unbroken mountain wall seemed to cut off all
Line 1.30.5communication with the interior from the im
Line 1.30.6mediate neighbourhood of the port.

Line 1.31.0We anchored about one and a half miles in
Line 1.31.1side Hecate Point, in four fathoms, mud.
Line 1.31.2Somea blacks came off in three small bark canoes,
Line 1.31.3two in each, but we did not encourage them to
Line 1.31.4come alongside and they left and went across to

Hinchinbrook Island.

Line 1.33.0On the morning of the 20th we landed oppo
Line 1.33.1site our anchorage on the mainland, at the spot
Line 1.33.2reported upon by Captain Richards, of H.M.S.
Line 1.33.3Hecate, as being suitable for a town site, but
Line 1.33.4finding the water shoal for some distance from
Line 1.33.5the bench, and the forest rather dense, we deter

mined to examine the entire shores of the port

before deciding upon the precise place for settle

ment.

Line 1.36.0We, therefore, made sail on the schooner and
Line 1.36.1stood down Port Hinchinbrook (which connects
Line 1.36.2Rockingham and Halifax Bays), carrying sound
Line 1.36.3ings of from seven to twelve fathoms for ten

miles to where we anchored.

Line 1.38.0On the 21st, having found by exploration in
Line 1.38.1the Heather Bell that the whole shores of the
Line 1.38.2passage south of our anchorage were one im
Line 1.38.3mense mangrove flat, intersected by saltwater
Line 1.38.4creeks, none of which reach the sound country
Line 1.38.5behind, we weighed and stood up the passage,
Line 1.38.6examining this coast as we proceeded, and were
Line 1.38.7much disappointed in not finding a single spot
Line 1.38.8in the finest part of the harbour which was not
Line 1.38.9either covered or surrounded with mangroves
Line 1.38.10and swamp—until we returned to Captain
Line 1.38.11Richards' site, where we determined to fix our
Line 1.38.12camp at the most open spot at the north west
Line 1.38.13end of the Two-mile Beach, and off which we

anchored.

Line 1.40.0When coming up the harbour, a number of
Line 1.40.1aborigenes were seen on a small sandy beach. I,
Line 1.40.2therefore, went with a party in the ship's boat,
Line 1.40.3with James Morrill, the interpreter. The blacks
Line 1.40.4came out some way into the water to meet us :
Line 1.40.5a number of others lay in wait in the bushes.

Line 1.41.0They asked for tomahawks, &c., and seemed
Line 1.41.1much astonished that Morrill could converse
Line 1.41.2with them—if not exactly in their own dialect,
Line 1.41.3yet so as to be perfectly understood.

Line 1.42.0I asked them if there was not a river behind
Line 1.42.1the range (one I had seen on my expedition last
Line 1.42.2year), and where it ran into the sea , but they
Line 1.42.3most positively denied, over and over again,
Line 1.42.4that any such river existed. I then asked them
Line 1.42.5where the easiest track existed through the
Line 1.42.6ranges, as I wished to go over to the great river,

Line 1.43.0Maal Maal, or Burdekin (pointing in that
Line 1.43.1direction), but they stated with much animation
Line 1.43.2that there was no way through the ranges, and
Line 1.43.3that they went far away (pointing to the north
Line 1.43.4west), and there crossed, and would take me
Line 1.43.5that way themselves !—an arrangement which I
Line 1.43.6did not exactly appreciate, considering the
Line 1.43.7smallness of my party, and the hostility shown
Line 1.43.8by those very blacks to the unfortunate Kennedy
Line 1.43.9and his companions—not to mention that right
Line 1.43.10behind them, and only a few miles off, I saw a
Line 1.43.11splendid gap, by which I had determined to
Line 1.43.12endeavour or to penetrate to the interior , and
Line 1.43.13therefore felt perfectly certain that these cun
Line 1.43.14ning savages answering every question by a
Line 1.43.15falsehood for their own purposes.

Line 1.44.0They were large muscular men, with bullet-
Line 1.44.1shaped heads and a ferocious, cunning, and re
Line 1.44.2pulsive cast of features.

Seeing that to admit any of these people to

our new settlement would be to allow a multi

Line 1.46.0tude of armed savages to have the chance of
Line 1.46.1watching and harrassing, and endangering, at
Line 1.46.2any weak moment, a small isolated camp of set

tlers in a densely wooded country, some of

Line 2.0.0whom would require to be out in the bush
Line 2.0.1splitting and sawing timber without any protec-
Line 2.0.2tion, I told them, through Morrill, that we had
Line 2.0.3come to take possession of the coast from a
Line 2.0.4point on the north-west shore of the bay to a
Line 2.0.5point opposite Haycock Island, and that we
Line 2.0.6were going to settle there and possess it.

Line 2.1.0They said, "they hoped we were not going to
Line 2.1.1war with them." I replied " No : that we did
Line 2.1.2not wish to hurt them, but that we wished to be
Line 2.1.3left alone ; that if they would keep off and not
Line 2.1.4molest us, we would not injure or interfere with
Line 2.1.5them in any way." They seemed to understand
Line 2.1.6this ultimatum, and retired slowly into the man-
Line 2.1.7groves, Morrill having explained it to them
Line 2.1.8over and over again, and told them to inform
Line 2.1.9the neighboring tribes accordingly.

I had obtained the services of Morrill from

Line 2.3.0your Excellency's government for the purpose
Line 2.3.1of, if possible, coming to an amicable under-
Line 2.3.2standing with these people, having alway's been
Line 2.3.3of opinion that hostility and bloodshed fre-
Line 2.3.4queenly occur between the wild blacks and white
Line 2.3.5settlers at the outset of their intercourse, from
Line 2.3.6perfect ignorance on the part of the former as
Line 2.3.7to what the white men require of them—"Thou
Line 2.3.8shall not steal" and "Thou shall do no murder"

having always required heretofore to be taught

them by the rifle and revolver.

Line 2.5.0It was with great regret that we found it im-
Line 2.5.1possible to find a site for settlement on the shores
Line 2.5.2of the inner harbor further to the southward ;
Line 2.5.3however, that selected is one of the finest in
Line 2.5.4Australia.

Line 2.6.0Port Hinchinbrook is a perfectly land-locked
Line 2.6.1harbor, of twenty-five miles in length by two in
Line 2.6.2breadth, carrying soundlines of from four to
Line 2.6.3twelve fathoms at dead low water spring tides,
Line 2.6.4and I feel very confident that an entrance will
Line 2.6.5be discovered from Halifax Bay, close under the
Line 2.6.6high land of Hinchinbrook, through the bar
Line 2.6.7reported to exist there by Captain Blackwood,
Line 2.6.8R.N., of H.M.S. Fly.

Line 2.7.0Such bars along the north-east coast of Aus-
Line 2.7.1tralia are formed by the south-east trade meeting
Line 2.7.2the currents of rivers or tidal estuaries throwing
Line 2.7.3up banks to windward, but almost invariably
Line 2.7.4with an available channel to the northeward, as
Line 2.7.5at the mouths of the Brisbane, Fitzroy, Burde-
Line 2.7.6kin, and other minor streams and outlets of the

coast.

Line 2.9.0The lofty peaks of Hinchinbrook on the
Line 2.9.1eastern, and the mountain chain of the mainland
Line 2.9.2on the western tide, completely shelter this
Line 2.9.3beautiful harbor from all winds, and render it
Line 2.9.4the most grandly picturesque as well as one of
Line 2.9.5the finest of the Australian ports. It is, in fact,
Line 2.9.6inferior to Sydney only in point of wharfage,
Line 2.9.7vessels unfortunately being unable to approach
Line 2.9.8within a quarter of a mile of any portion of the

mainland.

Line 2.11.0The northern entrance to the port is com-
Line 2.11.1pletely sheltered by Tunk island, the Family,
Line 2.11.2and Goold islands, and banks, through which a
Line 2.11.3broad passage of three and a-half fathoms at
Line 2.11.4low water springs gives easy access from the

open sea.

Line 2.13.0The site for settlement recommended by
Line 2.13.1Captain Richards, R.N., and which we decided
Line 2.13.2upon adopting, is inside and about west-south-
Line 2.13.3west from Hecate Point ; and here, during the
Line 2.13.4heaviest weather experienced since our arrival,
Line 2.13.5and during the most stormy season of the year,
Line 2.13.6there has been no break whatever on the beach,
Line 2.13.7and small boats could ply at all times with
Line 2.13.8perfect safety. Although the anchorage for
Line 2.13.9large vessels is some little distance out, yet so
Line 2.13.10soft and even is the flat in front of the town,
Line 2.13.11that they can run right in at high water, and,
Line 2.13.12lying in perfect safely at low water, land cargo
Line 2.13.13on to the beach from the ship's tackles. A
Line 2.13.14jetty, such as is proposed at Port Denison, will
Line 2.13.15in due time quite overcome this difficulty.

Line 2.14.0The site available for the township extends
Line 2.14.1behind two miles of open sandy beach, destitute
Line 2.14.2of mangroves, and slopes gently back for about
Line 2.14.3two miles to the base of the mountains, which
Line 2.14.4rise in abrupt and imposing masses behind ; and
Line 2.14.5in future years, when the forests shall have
Line 2.14.6fallen, and churches, public buildings, streets,
Line 2.14.7warehouses, &c., spread far along the gleaming
Line 2.14.8shore and back to the base of the mountains,
Line 2.14.9and the taper spurs and black hulls of a mer-
Line 2.14.10chant fleet give life to the now lonely waters
Line 2.14.11of the harbor, Australia will hold nothing
Line 2.14.12more beautiful than the city of Cardwell and its
Line 2.14.13port.

Line 2.15.0The soil of the town site is a coarse dry
Line 2.15.1gravel, evidently disintegrated granite rock, from
Line 2.15.2the range behind.

Line 2.16.0The forest is composed of several varieties
Line 2.16.1of eucalyptus (gums), melaleuca (tea-tree), a
Line 2.16.2large tree called messmate, a kind of stringy
Line 2.16.3bark, and very valuable for building purposes ;
Line 2.16.4bloodwood, whitewood, Moreton Bay ash, &c.,
Line 2.16.5and some fine large specimens of a description
Line 2.16.6of ficus, with dense foliage and white wax-look-
Line 2.16.7ing flowers, with powerful perfume, which latter
Line 2.16.8trees grow on the beach, their limbs overhanging

the sea.

Line 2.18.0Fresh water is obtained anywhere along the
Line 2.18.1beach by digging, and is of excellent quality.
Line 2.18.2Also in small running creeks, about half-a-mile
Line 2.18.3from the town, and in a small swamp close to
Line 2.18.4the settlement ; and, I should presume, from the
Line 2.18.5elevation and proximity of the ranges, that the
Line 2.18.6supply is permanent.

Line 2.19.0On the 22nd of January, we landed our horses,
Line 2.19.1sheep, tents, &c., from the Policeman, and formed
Line 2.19.2a camp at the west end of the beach ; and on
Line 2.19.3the 26th, having, after a careful examination of
Line 2.19.4the locality by land and sea, decided upon the
Line 2.19.5eastern end as the site combining proximity to
Line 2.19.6the best anchorage, the soundest and most
Line 2.19.7healthy ground, and convenient communication
Line 2.19.8with the probable route to the interior, we moved
Line 2.19.9our camp to that place, erected an iron store
Line 2.19.10and huts, landed our cargo, and soon had the
Line 2.19.11satisfaction of seeing forest trees falling in all
Line 2.19.12directions, slabs being split, clearings made, and
Line 2.19.13this silent wilderness of the north awaking sud-
Line 2.19.14denly to life and civilisation.

Line 2.20.0To the westward of the settlement a fine
Line 2.20.1valley runs up about eight miles into the range,
Line 2.20.2and seeing leading spurs descending at its head
Line 2.20.3into the low country, I proceeded to explore it
Line 2.20.4for a road, accompanied by Lieutenant Marlow
Line 2.20.5(native mounted police), and three troopers.

Line 2.21.0Passing through rather dense and lofty
Line 2.21.1forest for about six miles, we entered a very
Line 2.21.2beautiful tract of rich country, of limited extent,
Line 2.21.3openly timbered ridges descending from the
Line 2.21.4range into rich small plains and forest glades,
Line 2.21.5intersected with many clear running stony
Line 2.21.6streams, all joining a small rapid river (which
Line 2.21.7I have named the Marlow), its banks clothed
Line 2.21.8with dense lofty jungle, a mass of creeping
Line 2.21.9vines, palms, &c. At the head of the valley,
Line 2.21.10where it was surrounded by almost an amphi-
Line 2.21.11theatre of precipitous moutains, this river fell
Line 2.21.12from the crest of the range in a fine cascade
Line 2.21.13into the woodlands below.

A broad, hard-beaten path of the blacks

led us into this retreat, where small verdant

Line 2.23.0plains, bounded and broken by clumps of vines,
Line 2.23.1jungle, and fig trees, varied by the fresh, bright
Line 2.23.2green of groves, or single trees of the wild
Line 2.23.3banana, and the tall, graceful stems of the Sea
Line 2.23.4forthia elagans palm, half completed the delu-
Line 2.23.5sion that we were entering one of the beautiful
Line 2.23.6mountain villages of Ceylon, or of the islands of

the Pacific.

Line 2.25.0The whole of the open ground of this portion
Line 2.25.1of the floor of the valley was dotted with old
Line 2.25.2and recent "bora" grounds of the blacks, where
Line 2.25.3they hold large meetings of their tribes, at cer-
Line 2.25.4tain seasons, at the full moon, to make warriors
Line 2.25.5of the youths, and have fights and "corrobo-
Line 2.25.6rees." Certainly, a more beautiful and pic-
Line 2.25.7turesque site for such wild ceremonies could
Line 2.25.8scarcely be selected.

Line 2.26.0Over these "bora" grounds the soil was
Line 2.26.1beaten down hard and bare over a space of a
Line 2.26.2quarter of an acre, like an oriental thrashing
Line 2.26.3floor, and generally surrounded by clusters of
Line 2.26.4small, round topped huts, covered with
Line 2.26.5melaleuca bark. In one of those we found some
Line 2.26.6of the shields and wooden swords of the natives,
Line 2.26.7—the former about three feet long by 1½ feet
Line 2.26.8broad, and of an oval shape, with a nob in the
Line 2.26.9centre. They are formed of the soft light wood
Line 2.26.10of the buttress root of a description of ficus,
Line 2.26.11and are painted in blue, black, red, and yellow
Line 2.26.12bands, in a quaint zigzag pattern, found on all
Line 2.26.13shields in this part of the colony.

Line 2.27.0The sword is formed of a hard and tough
Line 2.27.1wood, like brigalow. These swords are about
Line 2.27.2five feet long and six inches broad, and shaped
Line 2.27.3with a curve, and point like an infantry sword.
Line 2.27.4The handle is fined off, and bound with cord and
Line 2.27.5native wax, and is only large enough for one
Line 2.27.6hand; and as they are so heavy that few white

Line 3.0.0men can raise them at arms' length, it is diffi-
Line 3.0.1cult to understand how they can be in any way
Line 3.0.2an efficient weapon in the hands of the Austra-
Line 3.0.3lian savages, unless they are far more powerful
Line 3.0.4men than their more southern brethren, and
Line 3.0.5more so than the generality of white men.

Line 3.1.0On the 4th of February I ascended the
Line 3.1.1range, and leaving Lieut. Marlow and trooper
Line 3.1.2Norman outside, with troopers Warbragen
Line 3.1.3and Archy, cut my way up to the summit,
Line 3.1.4through the densest vine and thorn jungle I
Line 3.1.5ever met with, even in the East Indies. Be
Line 3.1.6sides an undergrowth of smaller thorny bushes,
Line 3.1.7a perfect network is formed of cane creepers, of
Line 3.1.8various dimensions, covered with hook-shaped
Line 3.1.9thorns, which catch one by the face, back,
Line 3.1.10hands, and legs, so that not only were our
Line 3.1.11clothes nearly torn to ribbons, but we returned
Line 3.1.12to the outside all scratched and bleeding, and
Line 3.1.13our hands and wrists so full of poisonous thoms,
Line 3.1.14that on my return to the settlement I was
Line 3.1.15forced to put both hands in poultices.

Line 3.2.0From the summit of the range I found that
Line 3.2.1the dense scrub extended for miles to the west-
Line 3.2.2ward, without a break, and, therefore, I returned
Line 3.2.3to the settlement, determined to examine the
Line 3.2.4gap to the southward.

Line 3.3.0On the 10th of February I proceeded, with
Line 3.3.1Mr. Arthur Scott and my black boy Cockey,
Line 3.3.2to examine this gap, which is distant ten miles
Line 3.3.3from the settlement, in a southerly direction.

Line 3.4.0A blacks' track or path led us right into the
Line 3.4.1gap, crossing many swamps behind the man-
Line 3.4.2groves ; but I have since made an excellent
Line 3.4.3road through sound forest country, along the
Line 3.4.4base of the range.

Line 3.5.0We ascended, by easy spurs, to a hill above
Line 3.5.1the saddle of this gap, and thence discovered
Line 3.5.2that it descended by a gorge, full of dense scrub,
Line 3.5.3or rather jungle, into the broad valley of the
Line 3.5.4fine river (which I had seen from the western
Line 3.5.5ranges last year, and had questioned the blacks
Line 3.5.6about), and on the opposite or western side of
Line 3.5.7which, the main coast range, sweeping back
Line 3.5.8from its lofty abutment on the coast of Halifax
Line 3.5.9Bay, trends away in a W.N.W., and, finally,
Line 3.5.10westerly direction, on to the Mount Lang table
Line 3.5.11land, where by the hills of the head of Great
Line 3.5.12Anthill Creek, Razorback, Mount Laug, &c., it
Line 3.5.13joins the Great East Australian Cordilleras,
Line 3.5.14whence it forms the watershed of the Burdekin

and Lynd rivers.

Line 3.7.0From the heads of Separation Creek of Leich-
Line 3.7.1hardt, a lofty range—in reality a great spur of
Line 3.7.2the main backbone range—sweeps round nearly
Line 3.7.3parallel to the coast range, and sending out a
Line 3.7.4brauch (the northern watershed of the Mackay
Line 3.7.5River, terminating in Tam O'Shanter Point,
Line 3.7.6inside Dunk Island), the main mass forms the
Line 3.7.7wall-like range of Rockingham Buy, terminating
Line 3.7.8opposite the south entrance of the inner pas
Line 3.7.9sage, called Port Hinchinbrook, in Mount
Line 3.7.10Leach, a granitic mass of fully four thousand

feet elevation.

Line 3.9.0Between Mount Leach and Mount Arthur
Line 3.9.1Scott (the next most lofty mountain of the
Line 3.9.2chain) is the very peculiar depression or gap
Line 3.9.3which we had ascended—at once solving the
Line 3.9.4difficulty in my mind of overcoming the previ-
Line 3.9.5ously considered impassable Rockingham ranges.

Line 3.10.0The new river, which I have had the honor
Line 3.10.1of naming the Herbert, after the Colonial Secre-
Line 3.10.2tary, rises on and traverses the eastern slopes of
Line 3.10.3the table land ; and being precipitated over the
Line 3.10.4edge of the basalt in a heavy fall (which we have
Line 3.10.5heard distinctly twelve miles off) into a deep
Line 3.10.6gorge-like valley between the granitic moun-
Line 3.10.7tains of the great Rockingham spur and the
Line 3.10.8igneous rocks of the main coast range and table
Line 3.10.9land—as these open out towards the coast
Line 3.10.10winds through the beautiful and rich country
Line 3.10.11of the Vale of Herbert, to all appearances run-
Line 3.10.12ning into Halifax Bay and the south end of
Line 3.10.13Rockingham channel, and there assisting by its
Line 3.10.14deposits in the formation of the great extent of
Line 3.10.15mud flats and mangrove swamps which cumber
Line 3.10.16this end of the harbor. I am of opinion that

the sources of the Herbert are identical with

Line 3.12.0the Separation Creek of Leichhardt—more par-
Line 3.12.1ticularly as for many miles of its upper course
Line 3.12.2it forms the boundary between the primary and
Line 3.12.3metamorphic rocks ; and I could discover no
Line 3.12.4other practicable outlet for Separation Creek
Line 3.12.5through the northern ranges.

Line 3.13.0On the 15th of February, accompanied by
Line 3.13.1Messrs. G. M. Farquharson and R. Ewart, and
Line 3.13.2two black boys, viz., trooper Norman of the
Line 3.13.3native police, and my own boy Cockey, from
Line 3.13.4Stradbroke Island, Moreton Bay, I left the
Line 3.13.5settlement with five riding horses, four spare
Line 3.13.6and pack-horses, and rations for fourteen days,

arms, &c.

Line 3.15.0Keeping close to the base of the range, we
Line 3.15.1traversed ridgy open forest country of mess-
Line 3.15.2mate, ironbark, bloodwood, gum, &c., crossing
Line 3.15.3many running creeks (with vine scrubs, palms,
Line 3.15.4and wild bananas on their banks,) running from
Line 3.15.5the range into the harbor ; and camped under
Line 3.15.6the north side of Mount Leach, and between it
Line 3.15.7and Port Hinchinbrook.

Line 3.16.0On the 20th February we continued our
Line 3.16.1course between the range and the harbor, our
Line 3.16.2passage being impeded by the rocky base of the
Line 3.16.3mountains, furrowed by deep gullies and creeks
Line 3.16.4descending right into the mangrove swamps.

At the south end of Mount Leach we crossed

a low scrubby range running out from it, and

struck to the west-north-west.

Line 3.20.0The weather was now, and had been for
Line 3.20.1some time, very wet ; and we had great diffi
Line 3.20.2culty in making our way across the swamps
Line 3.20.3which cover the country between Mount Leach
Line 3.20.4and Halifax Bay.

Line 3.21.0In this locality we discovered a new and
Line 3.21.1very gorgeous plant, about the size and shape
Line 3.21.2of a small pineapple, but formed of rich deep
Line 3.21.3purple leaves, of the same tint, form, and ar
Line 3.21.4rangement as a dahlia—the flower being equally
Line 3.21.5solid, but cylindrical instead of round. It
Line 3.21.6grows upon a cane-like stem, similar to vanda
Line 3.21.7ceruliensis, I could not carry one on this
Line 3.21.8occasion ; but doubtless Mr. Dallachy has by
Line 3.21.9this time added this new plant to his valuable

collection.

Line 3.23.0Our route lay about fifteen miles along the
Line 3.23.1base of Mount Leach range, the swamps and
Line 3.23.2scrubs hemming us in on the left and cumbering
Line 3.23.3the whole country. On the west side of the
Line 3.23.4range, however, these gave place to extensive
Line 3.23.5rolling plains, with grasses as high as my saddle
Line 3.23.6bow, but by no means coarse, and the richest
Line 3.23.7red, chocolate-colored loam I have seen in
Line 3.23.8Queensland. These plains extended on both
Line 3.23.9sides of the river Herbert, the banks of which
Line 3.23.10showed thirty to forty feet of pure mould where
Line 3.23.11cut into by the stream.

Line 3.24.0We encountered much difficulty and danger
Line 3.24.1in crossing this river ; it being broad, rapid, and
Line 3.24.2deep from the flood waters of the recent rains
Line 3.24.3on the table land—my horse and Cockey's being
Line 3.24.4rolled over by the stream, obliging us to swim
Line 3.24.5for it. I was also in a position of considerable
Line 3.24.6danger from a tribe of wild blacks, while left
Line 3.24.7alone, with my arms and ammunition wet, on
Line 3.24.8the far side, whilst Cockey was bringing the

others across.

Line 3.26.0I made three separate attemps to cross the
Line 3.26.1main coast range on to the table land, without
Line 3.26.2success, over a distance of twenty miles along
Line 3.26.3it ; but finally crossed it by cutting through a
Line 3.26.4good deal of dense vine scrub, and discovered a
Line 3.26.5good spur descending from the range into the
Line 3.26.6Vale of Herbert, suitable for a dray road, about
Line 3.26.7twenty miles in a west-north-west direction from
Line 3.26.8the gap in the Rockingham Bay range, between
Line 3.26.9Mount Leach and Mount Arthur Scott, the
Line 3.26.10country between being open and sound for a dray
Line 3.26.11road the whole way along the base of the back
Line 3.26.12of the Rockingham Range.

Line 3.27.0That portion of the main coast range which
Line 3.27.1we ascended has a line of perfectly open, bald,
Line 3.27.2grassy summits for about two miles—descending
Line 3.27.3steep, scrubby, and broken into the Vale of Her-
Line 3.27.4bert, that river winding far below like a silver
Line 3.27.5snake out of the gorges of its upland birthplace,
Line 3.27.6through mountain-flanked rich woodlands and
Line 3.27.7plains. Further to the eastward it spreads out

Line 3.28.0into the dim distant level seaboard of Halifax
Line 3.28.1Bay, with its faint blue line of ocean, dotted
Line 3.28.2with the hilly outlines of the Palm Island far to
Line 3.28.3the seaward ; all softened and mellowed by the
Line 3.28.4gauze-like summer heat haze of declining day ;
Line 3.28.5the setting sunbeams shining deep purple on the
Line 3.28.6distant crenelated peaks of Hinchinbrook, and
Line 3.28.7the chains of mountains north and south. Most
Line 3.28.8grand and lovely in its scenery is this "Vale of
Line 3.28.9Herbert," mountains, peaks, cliffs, waterfalls,
Line 3.28.10forests, plains, and what is seldom met with in
Line 3.28.11Australian scenery, the clear waters of a broad
Line 3.28.12running river, adding lite, light, and beauty to

the whole.

To the west, a shallow valley full of scrub,

Line 4.0.0bounded by a second line of low bald hills, still
Line 4.0.1cut us off from the table land, which beyond
Line 4.0.2rolls far away to the westward, until it sinks to
Line 4.0.3wards the Gulf of Carpentaria, to the north,
Line 4.0.4and to the shed of waters towards Spencer's

Gulf, to the south and west.

Line 4.2.0We had to cut our way out through the second
Line 4.2.1scrub, and thence steered west half south to the
Line 4.2.2Valley of Lagoons.

On the first tiny we made twenty miles, pass

ing through ridgy, sound forest country, well

Line 4.5.0grassed and watered, and fit for either sheep or
Line 4.5.1cattle ; and crossing the main head of the Bur
Line 4.5.2dekin. Coming from the southward about
Line 4.5.3twelve miles from the range, a more northern
Line 4.5.4head overlaps the river Herbert, behind the

north end of Sea View Range. The south head

overlaps the heads of the Perry.

On the second day I struck Lucy Creek, the

Line 4.8.0feeder of Lake Lucy, a fine sheet of water,
Line 4.8.1which I discovered last year, a few miles east-
Line 4.8.2ward of the junction of Great Anthill Creek

with the Burdekin.

Line 4.10.0A few miles down Lucy Creek it runs
Line 4.10.1through a curious passage or lynn of red con
Line 4.10.2glomerate rock, in which were a low indistinct

impressions of fossil shells.

Line 4.12.0Following the creek down still west-by-south
Line 4.12.1for about ten miles, we came on rich gum and
Line 4.12.2box flats on its banks, and out upon the splen-

did rich rolling basaltic plains and downs of the

Lake Lucy run.

This fine country, the commencement of the

rich table land which extends far to the west of

the Clarke, Lynd, Copperfield, Barkly, and

Line 4.16.0Flinders, skirts the shores of Lake Lucy for
Line 4.16.1many miles, and is not surpassed by any down
Line 4.16.2country in Queensland.

Line 4.17.0The soil is dark, chocolate colored, and
Line 4.17.1black, with basaltic stones scattered over it, and
Line 4.17.2small patches of scrub, and like the remainder
Line 4.17.3of the table land as described by Leichhardt,
Line 4.17.4"finer sheep and cattle stations for the squatter

cannot exist."

Line 4.19.0On March 1st, crossing the low Psamnite
Line 4.19.1range which divides Lake Lucy from the valley
Line 4.19.2of the Burdekin, below Great Anthill Creek, we
Line 4.19.3followed down the valley of that river, with

Line 4.20.0its rich grass, lofty gum trees, and lotus co-
Line 4.20.1vered lagoons, till the hills on either side
Line 4.20.2sweeping backwards, the beautiful open forest
Line 4.20.3ridges opened out in scattered timber, like an
Line 4.20.4English park, upon the plains and lakes of Leich
Line 4.20.5hardt's Valley of Lagoons.

Herds of short-horned cattle were lying in

groups on the woodland ridges, or browsing

over the rich pastures with that quiet laziness,

Line 4.23.0sure evidence of their thriving condition. Their
Line 4.23.1red and white flecked sides forming a beautiful
Line 4.23.2contrast to the deep green verdure of the
Line 4.23.3country, and blue waters of the lakes.

The Burdekin, here a deep swift running

stream of about twenty yards broad, winds

Line 4.25.0down the centre of the plains, destitute of river
Line 4.25.1timber, save here and there a dark cluster of
Line 4.25.2casuarinas (swamp oak) on its grassy banks.

Following the plain between the left bunk of

the river and the Pelican Lakes for about two

Line 4.28.0miles, the valley of Lagoons cattle station of
Line 4.28.1Messrs. Scott Brothers, Dalrymple, and Co.,
Line 4.28.2came in view ; the paddock fence encircling, and
Line 4.28.3the cottage and buildings crowning a command
Line 4.28.4ing ridge half surrounded by the river, and
Line 4.28.5overlooking the whole valley, with its plains,
Line 4.28.6lakes, and wooded hills beyond.

Line 4.29.0The sheep station is on the basaltic table land
Line 4.29.1of Leichhardt, about six miles south of Mount
Line 4.29.2Lang ; the country being elevated nearly 1000
Line 4.29.3feet above the Pelican Lakes, and similar in
Line 4.29.4quality to Lake Lucy.

From the centre and most elevated portion of

the table land, rises the cone of Mount Lang to

an elevation of about 1000 feet above the sea.

It was first ascended by Mr. Arthur Scott

and myself last year, and we then found it to

Line 4.33.0be the crater of an extinct volcano, the cup
Line 4.33.1being still quite perfect, of about an acre in ex-
Line 4.33.2tent, and containing the very richest volcanic
Line 4.33.3soil I have ever seen, suggestive of the possi-
Line 4.33.4bility of the production of wine-grapes to com
Line 4.33.5pete with those of southern Europe.

Line 4.34.0A large gap is broken out of the south side of
Line 4.34.1the cup, whence, doubtless, poured the three
Line 4.34.2streams of lava, which, as described by Leich-
Line 4.34.3hardt at no distant date have traversed the

table land in distinct lines down into the Valley

of Lagoons.

Line 4.37.0The lava on those streams is heaped up,
Line 4.37.1spiked, jagged, and hollowed out into deep
Line 4.37.2cauldron-shaped bolas and fissures, or merely
Line 4.37.3ruffled into gentle wavelets on the surface, as
Line 4.37.4though suddenly cooled but yesterday in its
Line 4.37.5headlong irresistible progress, and occasionally

sprinkled with brilliantly colored scoria.

It is covered with a variety of scrub bushes,

bottle trees, and, in places, gigantic eucalypti,

and casuarina, the latter four feet through the

butt.

Line 4.42.0From the summit of Mount Lang the view is
Line 4.42.1far extended and imposing, from the mountains
Line 4.42.2of Rockingham Bay and Hinchinbrook on the
Line 4.42.3east, to the table top sandstone hills of the
Line 4.42.4Lynd and the distant table land of the Flinders,
Line 4.42.5Clarke, and Copperfield to the west ; and from
Line 4.42.6the lofty Gilbert and Kirchner ranges to the

north, far down the verdant valley of the

Burdekin to the southward.

Line 4.45.0Plains run down from Mount Lang to Great
Line 4.45.1Anthill Creek, and many clear running creeks
Line 4.45.2carry the cold waters of its living springs to the
Line 4.45.3Valley of Lagoons below.

On the 8th of March I started from the sta-

tion, on my return trip, with the same party

and others from the Valley, to the number,

Line 4.48.0altogether, of twelve white men and four black-
Line 4.48.1boys ; three bullock drays, sixty-one working
Line 4.48.2bullocks, sixty-three fat cattle for the settlement
Line 4.48.3and eighteen horses. I marked an excellent
Line 4.48.4road to Rockingham Bay by a more direct route
Line 4.48.5than that by which I went up.

Line 4.49.0We arrived on the crest of the Main Range
Line 4.49.1on the 15th of March, where we camped, and
Line 4.49.2commenced cutting a dray road through the
Line 4.49.3scrubs, which are very dense and full of thorny
Line 4.49.4vines, "lawyer" palms, and stinging nettle
Line 4.49.5plants.

Line 4.50.0We camped here for three weeks, and
Line 4.50.1could not communicate with Rockingham Bay
Line 4.50.2from the flooded state of the river Herbert ;
Line 4.50.3the men, however, were hard at work all the
Line 4.50.4time making the road. The latter was at
Line 4.50.5length cleared for three miles, the drays were
Line 4.50.6brought down the range safely, and the pas
Line 4.50.7sage of the river was at length effected by
Line 4.50.8swimming the bullocks and horses, and
Line 4.50.9dragging the drays over with a rope. Two
Line 4.50.10drays were rolled over by the force of the
Line 4.50.11current, and six of the party who could not
Line 4.50.12swim, and who had gone over on them, had a
Line 4.50.13narrow escape from being washed away. The
Line 4.50.14rest of us rode across stripped, driving the
Line 4.50.15spare horses, bullocks, and fat cattle before

us.

Line 4.52.0From the Herbert crossing, the road
Line 4.52.1traverses the valley of that river in an east-
Line 4.52.2south-east direction for about eighteen miles
Line 4.52.3along the base of the Rockingham ranges,
Line 4.52.4through excellent open forest, ridgy country.
Line 4.52.5There was more difficulty, however, experienced
Line 4.52.6here in crossing the creeks, some of which were
Line 4.52.7scrubby and soft ; but good crossings can be

made with little trouble .

Line 4.54.0Here we entered the western side of the
Line 4.54.1singular gorge running up to the saddle of the
Line 4.54.2gap between Mount Leach and Mount Arthur
Line 4.54.3Scott. This gorge being full of scrub, required
Line 4.54.4another cutting of about two miles, and the
Line 4.54.5sides of the mountains being steep, the road
Line 4.54.6also required to be cut out of the sidling for a
Line 4.54.7considerable distance, crooks and gullies filled
Line 4.54.8up with stones, &c. ; in fact, a road to be made,
Line 4.54.9not traced and simply cleared of scrub.

Line 4.55.0The party had now, however, been living
Line 4.55.1for a month on beef and water, without tea,
Line 4.55.2sugar, flour, salt, or tobacco. I therefore de-
Line 4.55.3cided upon going into the settlement (now only
Line 4.55.4thirteen miles off) for supplies and assistance,
Line 4.55.5and having, therefore, cut a bridle track
Line 4.55.6through the scrub, on the Sunday, the 24th
Line 4.55.7April, with Messrs. E. M. Farquharson,
Line 4.55.8Waldron, R. Morris, and Norman and Cookey,
Line 4.55.9blackboys, and twenty-six head of fat cattle, we
Line 4.55.10arrived safely at the township, to the mutual
Line 4.55.11delight of the townspeople and ourselves,
Line 4.55.12neither party having heard of the other for two

months.

On calling a meeting of the inhabitants, and

Line 4.58.0representing to them that their assistance would
Line 4.58.1open a road at once from the interior into the
Line 4.58.2port, or otherwise I must for the present aban-
Line 4.58.3don the enterprise, twenty-six men at once
Line 4.58.4cheerfully volunteered their services , and so

Line 5.1.0accompanied me to the gap ; and under my
Line 5.1.1direction soon cut a good good passable road
Line 5.1.2through the scrubs and mountain sidings
Line 5.1.3through the gap, till met by the Valley of

Lagoons party from the other side.

Line 5.3.0The drays were then brought through and
Line 5.3.1into the settlement in safety, and have since
Line 5.3.2returned—crossing the first range with perfect
Line 5.3.3safety, with two tons on each dray. They were
Line 5.3.4also accompanied by spare hands to clear the
Line 5.3.5road and improve the creek crossings for the
Line 5.3.6laden drays.

Line 5.4.0To the energy of the Rockingham Bay volun
Line 5.4.1teers and our own men the government of
Line 5.4.2Queensland entirely owes its present possession
Line 5.4.3of a magnificent port—now made available for
Line 5.4.4the commerce of the interior, and of the revenue
Line 5.4.5to be immediately derived therefrom.

Line 5.5.0I can speak in high terms of the road, and
Line 5.5.1must say that I would rather take my drays
Line 5.5.2across both ranges twice than over Connor's
Line 5.5.3crossing of the Broad Sound range once ; and
Line 5.5.4with the expenditure of about £1000 it is cap
Line 5.5.5able of being made far superior to the Darling
Line 5.5.6Downs ranges.

Line 5.6.0The distance from the Valley of Lagoons to
Line 5.6.1the settlement by the road is 96 miles ; thence
Line 5.6.2roads branch off to the Flinders, Lynd, Clarke,
Line 5.6.3Barkly, and down the Burdekin Valley to Port
Line 5.6.4Denison, and in a short time the route by the
Line 5.6.5Flinders will be extended to a new settlement
Line 5.6.6on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, con-

necting the Pacific and the Gulf by a road only

about 350 miles long.

Line 5.8.0By this journey I have had the gratification
Line 5.8.1of connecting the tracts of Kennedy with those
Line 5.8.2of Leichhardt and Gregory, thus filling up the
Line 5.8.3only missing link of exploration between Cape
Line 5.8.4Otway and Cape York on the one hand and
Line 5.8.5Western Australia with the same point on the
Line 5.8.6other—these being again united in various direc
Line 5.8.7tions by the tracts of McKinlay, Walker, Lands-
Line 5.8.8borough, and McDougal Stuart.

Line 5.9.0Stations have already spread down the Flin-
Line 5.9.1ders by this route to within 100 miles of the
Line 5.9.2Gulf, and will soon, by reaching it [sic] shores, give
Line 5.9.3protection to the telegraphic line to India and
Line 5.9.4Timor and Java, inaugurated under your Excel-
Line 5.9.5lency's government, and now rapidly progressing

northwards.

Line 5.11.0The upland table lands behind Rockingham
Line 5.11.1Bay are of great extent, and afford millions of
Line 5.11.2acres of the finest country for the growth of

wool.

Line 5.13.0The scrubs of the ranges, and the rich alluvial
Line 5.13.1flats of the Vale of Herbert, and the valleys
Line 5.13.2penetrating the coast ranges, are undoubtedly
Line 5.13.3the best suited for the growth of sugar, cotton,
Line 5.13.4and coffee in Queensland ; and as the site of the
Line 5.13.5town itself is unexceptionable, and the harbor,
Line 5.13.6as before stated, only second to Port Jackson,
Line 5.13.7I can confidently predict a brilliant future for
Line 5.13.8town of Cardwell and Port Hinchinbrook—my
Line 5.13.9statements concerning the latter, your Excel-
Line 5.13.10lency, having visited it in H.M.S.S. Pioneer,
Line 5.13.11being in a position, I trust, to endorse.

Line 5.14.0At present there are about twenty-five houses
Line 5.14.1in the port and about fifty people, but the report
Line 5.14.2of the success of our enterprise will soon send
Line 5.14.3numbers to swell the population.

Line 5.15.0The shipping to the port is at present
Line 5.15.1necessarily limited to a small schooner, but
Line 5.15.2the Australian Steam Navigation Company
Line 5.15.3have proposed liberally to pioneer the way to
Line 5.15.4Port Hinchinbrook with a small steamer;
Line 5.15.5and from the position of this port in the centre
Line 5.15.6of the long north-eastern coast of Queensland,
Line 5.15.7and its capabilities as an admiralty and mercan-
Line 5.15.8tile steam coaling depot, I trust, ere many years
Line 5.15.9have passed, to see the ocean-going steamships
Line 5.15.10of a mail line from Brisbane to Singapore, via
Line 5.15.11Torres Straits and the splendid inner passage,
Line 5.15.12so highly commended by the late Admiral
Line 5.15.13King and many succeeding eminent naval
Line 5.15.14authorities, making Cardwell a place of regular
Line 5.15.15call—converting it from being, as lately, a wild,
Line 5.15.16desolate, and remote spot, into a flourishing sea-
Line 5.15.17port, within easy communication with the marts

of the world.

I have the honor to remain, Sir,

Your Excellency's most obedient servant,

Toggle Layout

Article Categories Help

Original Category

Article

The National Library of Australia's Copies Direct service lets you purchase higher quality, larger sized photocopies or electronic copies of newspapers pages.

Order now

Image or Text

You need to login before you can save preferences.

Details

Download Citation

Buy

Download

Share

Print

Article Categories Help

Original Category

pFad - (p)hone/(F)rame/(a)nonymizer/(d)eclutterfier! Saves Data!

Article text

Word position

Line position

Paragraphs

Zones

Tables

Illustrations

Metadata

Details

Download Citation

Buy

Download

Share

Print

Article Categories Help

Original Category

pFad - (p)hone/(F)rame/(a)nonymizer/(d)eclutterfier! Saves Data!