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1. The document outlines many parts of a complete design for a woven fabric including drafting plans, lifting plans, contact fields, systems of drafting such as straight, point, skip, broken, and combined drafts. 2. It also discusses classifications of plain cloths including approximately square, warp faced, and weft faced cloths. Various types of twill weaves are described such as simple, expanded, multiple, horizontal and vertical zigzag twills. 3. Finally, it covers derivatives of satin weave like crepe weaves produced in different ways, corkscrew weaves, and single and double shaded weaves.

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Safat Al Noman
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135 views186 pages

FSD Up

1. The document outlines many parts of a complete design for a woven fabric including drafting plans, lifting plans, contact fields, systems of drafting such as straight, point, skip, broken, and combined drafts. 2. It also discusses classifications of plain cloths including approximately square, warp faced, and weft faced cloths. Various types of twill weaves are described such as simple, expanded, multiple, horizontal and vertical zigzag twills. 3. Finally, it covers derivatives of satin weave like crepe weaves produced in different ways, corkscrew weaves, and single and double shaded weaves.

Uploaded by

Safat Al Noman
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as XLS, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 186

PARTS OF A COMPLETE DESIGN FOR A WOVEN FABRIC:

DRAFTING PLAN

PLAIN VIEW 2x2 REPEAT WEAVING PLAN LIFTING PLAN

CONTACT FIELDS:
4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 CONTACT FIELDS= RN wa X RN we 4 X 4 :: 16

FORMULA NUMBER:

FN we: 2 RN means REPEAT NUMBER 1

FN wa: 4

SYSTEMS OF DRAFTING:
1. STRAIGHT DRAFT (or ENTERING)

4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 4 3 2 1 S entering

4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 4 3 2 1 Z entering

# 2. POINT DRAFT: 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 3 2 5 4 3 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 5 4 3 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6

2 1

2 1

3. SKIP DRAFTS:

4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

FIGURE A: ONE REPEAT FIGURE B: FOUR REPEAT WARP UP WEFT UP WEFT UP WARP UP

(A)

(B) POINT PAPER DIAGRAM INTERLACING TYPE 'A' INTERLACING TYPE 'B'

1 1

1 4

11 12 13 14

BROKEN DRAFT

4 3 2 1

# # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

REGULAR WARP RIB:

# 2 2 (warp rib)

2 4

(warp rib)

IRREGULAR WARP RIB:

REGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE: 1 2 3

# # 3 2 (warp rib)

1 1

2 weft rib

IRREGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE:

3 2 1

4 3 2 1

3 1

6 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 (3+1) weft rib 1 1 2 3 4

(2+1) weft rib

HOSPACK, BASKET OR MATT WEAVE:

4 3 2 1

4 2

6 2

2 2

MATT WEAVE

6 5 4 3 2 1

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

5 3

7 3

9 10 11 12

IRREGULAR MATT WEAVE:

3 2 1

5 4 3 2 1

5 3

7 (3+1)

9 10 11 12

5 6 7 8 3 (3+2) 2

9 10

3 1

(3+1)

MATT FABRIC WITH WEAVE

STITCH MATT WEAVE: FANCY MATT WEAVE:

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 5 5 STITCH MATT 5

7 5

8 5

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 5 FANCY MATT

5. DIVIDED DRAFT:

6. GROUPED DRAFTS:

7 6 5 4 3 2 1

7. CURVED DRAFTS: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

REGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE: REGULAR WEFT RIB WEAVE: 6 5 4 8 7 6 5

3 2 1

4 3 2 1

7 8 9 10 11 12 1 3 weft rib 1

6 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 4 weft rib 1

6 5 4 3 2 1

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 (4+2) weft rib 1

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 4 4 4

1 2 3 4 5 6

5 # 4 2

(4+2)

FANCY MATT WEAVE:

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 7 7 FANCY MATT 7

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 7 7 FANCY MATT 7

6. GROUPED DRAFTS:

8. COMBINED DRAFT: 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

7. CURVED DRAFTS: 1 2 3

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

14 15 16 4 weft rib

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 9 9 9 FANCY MATT

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

35 36

CLASSIFICATION OF PLAIN CLOTHS: 1. APPROXIMATELY SQUARE CLOTHS:

2. WARP FACED CLOT

3. WEFT FACED CLOTH:

2. WARP FACED CLOTH:

3 2

warp way twill

d) According to the nature of the produced twill line: SIMPLE TWILL:

1 2

1 3

EXPANDED TWILL:

3 2

4 S

MULTIPLE TWILL:

4 1

1 S

3 1

1 1

2 2

Horizontal zigzag weave:

1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4

Z 2

8X4

# Horizontal zig zag twill based on

2 2

twill weave.

1 2 3 4 3 2

Z 2

6X4

# Horizontal zig zag twill based on

1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

1 2 1 4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1 4

2 2

20x4

1 2 3 4 5 6

1 2 3 4 5 6

5 4 3 2 1 6

3 3

12x6

Horizontal zig zag t

1 2 3 4 5 4 3

2 1 5

3 2

10x5

Horizontal zig zag t

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8

3 1

2 2

16x8

Horizontal zig zag t

Vertical zig-zag weave:

4 1

2 3 4 3 2 1 #

2 2

4X8

# Vertical zig zag twill based on

4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 #

2 2

4X8

# Vertical zig zag twill based on

Weft face twill:

warp way twill

3 2

weft way twill

3 2

2 1

Z 4 1 S
#

4 4

Z
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

S
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

3 1

1 3

twill weave.

twill weave.

# Horizontal zig zag twill based on

2 2

twill weave.

Horizontal zig zag twill based on

twill weave.

Horizontal zig zag twill based on

twill weave.

2 1 2

Horizontal zig zag twill based on

twill weave

twill based on

warp way twill weave.

5 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1
2

twill based on

# weft way twill weave.

2 3

5X10

Weft face twill:

Weft face twill:

Double face twill: Even sided twill:

2 3

2 3

2 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

1 1

3 1

1 5

# Vertical zig zag twill based on

2 3

# warp way twill weave.

2 3

Warp face twill:

3 1

24

2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5X8 # Vertical zig zag twill based on


2 3 Z

warp way twill weave.

y twill weave.

# 1 2 3 4 3 twill 1

regular matt

4 4

4 3 2 1

5 4 3 2 1

5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 #

TWILL WEAVE:

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 # WEFT WAY

# 2 2 z WEFT WAY 2 2

WARP FACED CLOTH

WEFT FACED CLOTH

3 1

1 1

2 2

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 #

1 2 3 4

1 # 1 2 3 4 5

3 2 1#

1 2 3 4 2

6 X

2 3 4 3 2 1

5 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5

# 1 2 3 4 5

Herringbone

# 1 2 3 4 4 Z 2
5

6 7 8 9 # # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # #

1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4 1 2 3 4 3 2

1 4

5 4 3 2 1

diaper design

diaper design based on 3 2

2 3 4 3 2 1 4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1 4

# 2 2 Z # Diamond design based on 2

twill

4 1 2 3 4 3 2 1

4 3 2 1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

# 3 2 Z

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 #

Derivatives of satin weave:


1. crepe weaves:
Basic methods of producing crepe weaves:

a. On a Sateen base b.By reversing c. By superimposing d. On a plain weave base a. On a Sateen base

7 end sateen 1 6 move no 4

Repeat 7 2 1 3 1

b.By reversing
a

C. Superimposing:

Move no 2 5 end sateen

1
1

1 2

Super imposing

4 end sateen

4 end satin

1 Move no 5 8 end sateen

Plain Base:
6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 end sateen 6 5 4 3 2 1 1
3

4 3 2

2. Corkscrew weave: 172 pages

3. Shaded weaves

single shaded

5 end sateen

Double shaded 20X5 weave

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # # # # # # # # # #

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # 2 3 4 2

Example of irregular sateen: 4 end sateen

twill

No move number

4 end Satin

Huckaback weave
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8

9 #

Repeat 10X10

Devon Huckaback
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 6 5 4 3 2 1
10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # 6 5 4 3 2 1 Repeat 10X6

Mock leno weaves

Repeat 6X6

Honeycomb weaves:

1. Ordinary honey comb 2. Brighton honeycomb

# 6X6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10X8

10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 #

Wrong formation

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # #

10

# # # #

2. Brighton honeycomb

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # #

# # #

Distorted thread effect


1. Distorted warp effect 2. Distorted weft effect

1. Distorted warp effect


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5
9

# # # # # # # 1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # #

6 7 8 9 #

6 7 8 9 #

2. Distorted weft effect

Cord effect:

Bedford cord:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8

9 # # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # #

c c

c c

Wadded bedford cord design: 1 2 3 4


5

6 7 8 9 # # # # # # # # #

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # #

c c

c c

Color and weave effects

Simple color and weave effects:


X X X X X X X X X X x x X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X # # # 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 #

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # # # # END AND END COLORING x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

Order of coloring: 2:2

Continuous line effect

Hair lines or pin stripe:


x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Order of coloring: 2:2

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

Crows foot pattern


X X X X X X X X X X X X 1 1 X X X X X X X X X
X

Order of coloring: 4:4


x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x 2 2 2 x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X

Order of coloring: 2:2

Dogs tooth/ Hounds tooth pattern:


Order of coloring: 4:4
x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

Shephards check pattern:


2/2 twill
Order of coloring: 6:6
x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x

All over effects

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 3 4 5 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

6 7 8 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X

4/4 TWILL COLOR ORDERING: 6:06

X X X X

X X X X X

X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X

X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

Zig-Zag weave:

3 4 3 2 1 4

# 2
2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

warp up weft up

WEFT FACED CLOTH

# Sateen base crepe weave

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 # # # 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6

# # # # # #

# # # # # #

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x

x x x x

x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x

coloring: 4:4
x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

X X x x X X X X x x X X X X x x X X X X x X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

Sundor design

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x

X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

2
2

3
2

3+2

5
5

move no 5 4

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12

3 5

4 5

9 10

9 10 11 12 13 14

# 3 1 Z

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

# 4 3 Z

7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6 5 4

3 2 1 # 4 3 Z

7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7

9 10 11 12 13 14

# 4 3 Z

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

5 END SATEEN

5 END SATIN

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

SHADED WEAVES: 1. SINGLE SHADDED

5 END SATEEN

5 END SATIN

5 END SATIN

9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Huckaback weave: 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2

x x

x x x x

x x

x x x x

x x

x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

12X10

9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Huckaback weave: 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 6

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

9 10 11 12 13 14 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x x x

x x x x x x x x

x x x x

x x x x x x x x

x x x x

x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x x x x

x x

x x x x x

x x

x x x x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

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x x

x x

x x

x x

x x

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