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INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING 2011

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

2011

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

A project report seems to be an individual effort is an in fact team work. Summer training at PEARL GLOBAL LTD was an opportunity to shake hands with practical world of business. I am indebted to all those who have helped me in gaining knowledge and told various aspects of exports procedure and documentation. I want to express my deepest gratitude towards Mr. Adarsh and Mr. Abhinav Dhain for facilitating my summer internship and without whom my internship would not be possible. I am also grateful to Mr. Yogesh Anand, Ms. Megha Tondon, Ms. Saumya Sharma and Ms. Ruchi for sharing their knowledge and experience and without whose help my project could not have any shape. At the last but not the least I would like to express my gratitude towards my college for facilitating my summer internship.

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Pearl Global Ltd.

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2011

PREFACE

The purpose of industrial training is to acclimatize the students with the organization and the industry in which this organization exists. Trainees are trained in such a way that after they come out, they can manage the matters of organization in a planned and systematic manner. My project is aimed at understanding the basics of export procedure and documentation. It includes how an export order is processed. This training was a valuable experience in terms of understanding and learning and I believe that in future I will get fruitful results.

Pearl Global Ltd.

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Pearl Global ltd. ( PGl) Group Overview

Fully integrated ready-to-wear business group. Started operations in 1987 in India. Gradually expanded to 11 countries across the globe through organic and inorganic routes.

State of the art manufacturing facilities are located in India, Bangladesh, Indonesia & China.

Annual capacity 40 million pieces per annum. Offers multi product and multi country manufacturing options to the customers.

Sourcing offices are located in Bangladesh, China and India. Working with 150 partner factories. Scalable business model to meet customers requirement.

Production System- Pearl Global uses an assembly line system. Design/Sampling and product development- designs are Mostly developed inhouse. Pearl has a strong team of 32 designers in India ,U.S.A, Germany , U.K to offer latest design input on latest design trends internationally in all categories making pearl ONE STOP SHOP Dedicated fabric development and sampling units in China and India.

The teams work closely with the Buyers designers to bring design to the table.

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The house of pearls research and design department prepares a collection of high fashion for each season, which are shown to buyers in advance, who then chooses or modifies the styles and places an order. Pearl Global then manufacture the style.

Quality Control- Raw material including fibers, yarns, dyes and chemical etc. are thoroughly checked before they are fed into the manufacturing process.

The total factory area in North India covers more than 3,10,000 sq ft of space and provides an efficient and spacious layout. The factory is laced with the best garment manufacturing and finishing equipments. Units are fully compliant to local laws pertaining to health, safety and labor laws pertaining to health, safety and labor regulations.

Order execution - Pearl has on time delivery performance over 98% Financial Turnover - $700 Million in its worldwide operations. Financial strength Pearl has strong financial structure to support manufacturing operations in its factories globally. Multi location manufacturing units to offer competitive production cost and produce goods with higher efficiency and productivity. Overhead expenses are controlled in order to maintain globally competitive pricing.

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Global Production Base

Woven Soft Separates North India - 4 factories Indonesia China - 2 factories - 1 factory

Annual Capacity 8 Million Pcs 5 Million Pcs 2.5 Million Pcs

Cut-n-Sew Knits North India - 1 factory Bangladesh - 2 factories Indonesia - 1 factory Sweater Bangladesh - 1 factory Bottoms South India 1 Factory Bangladesh 1 Factory 4 Mln Pcs 4 Mln Pcs. 3 Million Pcs 5 Million Pcs 6 Million Pcs 3 Million Pcs.

Pearl Global Ltd.

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Product category Share

S K IR T -1 0 % S S W E A T E R S% -7

K N IT S 5 % -2

L A D IE S T O -P S 40%

D R E S -4 % S M E N S S H IR -T S 6% P A N T -8 % S

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Major Customer profile

K O H L -6 % S H&M % -8

P R IM A R-3 % K G A P /B A N A N A R E PU B L IC 6 % -2

JCP 2% -2 G E O R G-1 7 % E N E XT % -4 L IZ C L A IB O R - E N 8% E S P IR IT % -6

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

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Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

2011

SWOT Analysis (PGL)

Strengths
Effective management Organized workforce Good inter and intradepartmental communication Good financial base of house of pearl International business presence. Good infrastructure Centralized merchandising.

Weakness
High overtime cost High sampling cost

Opportunities
International presence Low labor cost compared to buying countries Removal of remaining quantitative restrictions on import of goods from India. Incentive and support from government for export oriented units.

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Threats
Depreciation of dollar Low cost by china High competitive environment Growth of domestic market leading to labor and staff movement out of exports shifting towards domestic. Duty drawbacks Increase in labor cost due to increment in minimum wages by Haryana Government.

Pearl Global Ltd.

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Workflow in an Apparel Manufacturing Unit

Merchandising & Sampling Communication With The Buyer Identifying Their Need And Choices Sampling Based On The Buyer's Preferences Approval Of Sample By Buyer Getting Buying Order Making Pattern Of The Approved Sample For Final Production Developing & Maintaining production [Merchandiser's File]

Chronological Process of Merchandising

1. Salesman Samples, Counter Samples, Approval Samples, Photo samples, Preproduction Samples, Production Samples, Shipping samples. 2. Swatch, and Trims, Trim's Related Affairs 3. Sample: Reference garment corresponds to: The artwork (styling) done by designer and/or developer Particular purchase order. Any revision to the style work. Confirm to any specific requirement.

Sequence Of Sampling
1ST Pattern 2ND Pattern Counter Sample Salesman Sample Proto Sample Approval Sample (Size Set, Mock-Up)Pre- Production Sample Production Sample Shipping Sample.

Pearl Global Ltd.

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First Pattern First pattern is the first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by designer and for developer. Human Mind Sketch Paper Pattern Sample Purpose : See the design work & test the fitting Status : Nothing specific Material : Available Price : Not confirmed Quantity : 1 (for customer) + 1 (for merchandiser) Delivery : As per urgency Second Pattern Usually designer /developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern. Second pattern is made as per comments. Counter Sample Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on designer's artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser. Purpose : See the workmanship &test the factory skill Materials : Available Price : Not confirmed Quantity : 1 (for customer) + 1 (self keeping) Delivery : As per request Salesman Sample Salesman sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation, usually in l size in all color combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and record their response on order quantity per color, size etc. And finally place order to their vendor. Purpose: Sales meeting by retailers, market appraisal & Demand / order forecast Status : Final stage of the order confirmation Material : Actual

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

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Price : Confirmed Quantity : There is minimum quantity per color combination Delivery : Very, important to meet the delivery date. Proto Sample Proto samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog. Approval Sample In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new sample is made (some times mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is sent to buyer for his approval of the conformity thatthe revision is done correctly. SIZE SET: Consists of 1 pc from each size for each color combination. MOCK UP: Any PART of the garment to make-for PARTICULAR purpose, not complete garment Pre- Production Sample When material for bulk production arrived, factory makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer. Production Sample It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications. Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced & line workmanship confirmed to the quality level. Shipping Sample A sample is kept from every Pre-Shipping inspection to be referred, if required, after the order has been delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. Claim) shipping samples is important. Swatch Swatch is a presentation of all the materials is (Fabric & Accessories) used for any specific style /order. Usually small piece of fabric and each piece of accessories are attached in board paper in a systematic manner. Swatch is very important for production line to make the correct construction of a garment and QC department ensures it. Concerned merchandiser should confirm/approve the swatch.

Pearl Global Ltd.

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Trims Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, Proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers.

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

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Costing or Calculating Garment Price

In many companies, costing is done by costing officer & CEO. But in some places, it is done by the Merchandisers. In PGL costing is done by the merchandisers. Some important terms in costing

Yarn cost Process cost Process loss CMT (Cutting, Making & Trimming) Negotiation (getting the best out of a deal) Commission percentage (%) for Middle man Shortage/wastage Buyer specification (It is buyers responsibility to specify the quality required) Quantity Currency Mode of Shipment (sea, air) FOB (Free On Board) CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight) OH (Over head) Profit (level of %)

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

2011

Bulk sourcing and Store Processes

Getting requisition for sourcing the fabric and trims Communication with suppliers for getting the best quality at competitive prices and placing the order Follow up for timely delivery of goods

Receiving and unloading the fabric and trims

Quality check of material Getting requisition from production department Issuing the material according to the requisition Managing records at every level.

After this, the order is further processed and shifted to the production unit for bulk production.

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

2011

Departments and Operating procedures in the production unit

Trims Store Trims storage

Trims store have these following designated storage areas clearly marked. Incoming goods where all incoming goods are stored Inspected ok goods all trims once audit/ inspected passed are stored at this area. Inspection/ audit failed Rejected goods all trims which are rejected are stored at this area.

Fabric store
Fabric Reciept
100% fabric received to physciclly check for length and no. of rolls received against the invoice/ packing list of the fabric received. Physical verification of the quantity and its findings must be recorded and status of the same is intimated to the concerned, necessary action initiated as required.

Fabric inspection
10% fabric inspection for defects on the 4 point system and other parameters like bowing, center selvadge variation (csv), end to end shade variation is done. Defect standards are set with concerned buyer/ buying office and are displayed at the fabric inspection area as Acceptable, Not Acceptable separately, for easier identification. The inspection result must be recorded in the fabric inspection chart provided and forwarded to buyers office through factory merchant.

Wash Programe
Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

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100% fabrics is shade blanketed and the washed shade blanket with roll nos. and yardage is sent to the buyers office for approval. Approved shade group cards/ blanket should be available at the fabric store. Fabric roll segregation is done as per the shade groups approved, colour code stickers fixed and stored at separate areas. Approved shade band reference cards is made available to a) cutting dept, b) sewing dept, c) finishing and packing dept, d) Q.A dept. Shade group fabric quantities and its cuttable ratio is intimated to the cutting dept/ production dept and buyers office through merchandiser.

Shrinkage test
Shrinkage requisition Cut swatches (50cm X 50cm) Swatches overlock and relaxation as per fabric requirement. Wash as per instructions Pressing and relaxation as per fabric Measure % Shrinkage Record the readings and sent to the merchant.

Ironing and fusing

Fusing and ironing shrinkages is to be calculated for both wah and non- wash programs and the result is recorded and intimated to the pattern dept through merchant to incorporate in patterns accordingly. The test results and communication to pattern and merchandising dept.

Relaxation of stretch fabrics

Relaxing refers to the process that allows material to relax and contract prior to being manufactured. This step is necessary because the material is continually under tension throughout the various stages of the textile manufacturing process, including

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weaving, dyeing, and other finishing processes. The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink so that further shrinkage during customer use is minimized. Garment manufacturers perform the relaxing process either manually or mechanically. Manual fabric relaxing typically entails loading the bolt of fabric on a spinner and manually feeding the material through a piece of equipment that relieves tension in the fabric as it is pulled through. Mechanical fabric relaxing performs this same process in an automated manner. Many garment manufacturers will also integrate quality assurance into this process to ensure that the quality of the fabric meets customer standards. This step is performed by manually spot-checking each bolt of fabric using a backlit surface to identify manufacturing defects such as color inconsistency or flaws in the material. Fabrics that fail to meet customer standards are returned to the textile manufacturer. Relaxation history card/ sticker is fixed on each and every roll mentioning date, relaxation start and end time. The relaxation record to be maintained in a register for all the rolls style/ colour wise.

Spreading and Cutting

After fabric has been relaxed, it is transferred to the spreading and cutting area of the garment manufacturing facility. The fabric is first cut into uniform plies and then spread either manually or using a computer-controlled system in preparation for the cutting process. Fabric is spread to:
allow

operators to identify fabric defects; control the tension and slack of the fabric during cutting; and ensure each ply is accurately aligned on top of the others.

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The number of plies in each spread is dependent on the fabric type, spreading method, cutting equipment, and size of the garment order. Next, garment formsor patternsare laid out on top of the spread, either manually or programmed into an automated cutting system. Lastly, the fabric is cut to the shape of the garment forms using either manually operated cutting equipment or a computerized cutting system.

Approved garment
Approved garment is available at the dept. In case of critical styles with specific line placements, required layout on parts to be highlighted and displayed for easy reference and access to all.

Cutting CAD Markers

All markers are generated by CAD. Authentication of the same is to be confirmed by the cutting room Auditor. Markers are colour coded in case of multiple pattern usage.

Soabar Numbering/ ticketing

All panels to be numbered using Soabar stickers. Colour code soabar stickers in case of multiple patterns. Soabar sticker placement on the cut panels to be provided to the cutting dept by the sewing dept prior to bulk cutting and the same has to be followed while stickering

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

2011

Quality control
Defined quality control procedures in practice and records to be available Process audits to be done by dept auditor. Cutting room Q.A audit all cut parts, top, middle and bottom with the original pattern and record findings and initiate corrective action as required. Fabric laying/spreading is to be audited and recorded. Cut panel inspection to be conducted in a separate area in the dept.

Sewing
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process. There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make. These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.

Production file
Requirements in a style file Final teck pack/ GSS Passed FTP reports (fabric testing) Passed GPT reports (garment testing)
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Fabric Shrinkage test record for 10%/ 100% as applicable. Packeting/ lining shrinkage record for 10%/ 100% as applicable. Trim test report Approved shade bands (washed/ unwashed as applicable) Approved trim card with all trims Internal/ external P.P/ size set comments. Internal/ external P.P meeting minutes record Communication to pattern dept. for shrinkage incorporated based on shrinkage tests and conformation of shrinkage allowance incorporated by pattern dept. Size set/ pilot approval sheet Internal/ external Q.As inline reports.

Production
Work process display

Boards display in the line plan and audit points for each style. PP sample, buyers comments, size sets/ pilot comments, PPM record to be on display for easy access to all production staff.

Job description
Mocks were displayed on sewing machines for all operations. These Mocks are prepared by the operator for that machine and are to be signed by the line supervisor/ mechanic and Q.A. The Mocks mention the seam allowance/ SPI as well as the precautions.

Inline ironing operation

Vaccum tables installed in all lines wherever applicable.

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

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Folders/ guides/ Jigs

The style in production has to be analyzed by pre- production engineering dept and recommendations for use of folders/ guides/ jigs made and recorded. Sewing allowance guides attached to all overlock machines.

Inline process control

Describe the process control being followed in line for quality assurance visual, measurement control. Statistical process control. Attribute charts (for visual sewing defects control)

End line inspection

Garment to be 100% inspected at the end of the lines. End line inspection station to display trim cards, approved garment, fabric defects standards (clearly marked acceptable and not acceptable.

Finishing

Cutting of extra threads

Washing Ironing Initial quality checking Measurement audit Re pressing

Pearl Global Ltd.

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Receipt of garments
Receipt of garments to the dept is maintained size/ colour wise and tally order/ cut quantity.

Visual inspection
Inspectors are well trained for the garment inspection and they make the records of the defects found, total garments checked, etc.

Measurement audit
Factory has to check 100% garments for identified and the critical measurements in the garment.

Daily minimum 32 pcs were spec recorded at the department, done by the Q.A.

Measurements out of tolerance were highlighted in this audit report. All the garments with measurements out of tolerance were segregated, corrected and remeasured. The number of garments with measurements out of tolerance were recorded and intimated to the production department at regular intervals.

How to measure diagrams from the manual were displayed at this area.

Defects in Garments For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, designs and the final finished garments. Quality control in terms of garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or exporter. Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment manufacturing like sewing, colour, sizing, or garment defects should never

Pearl Global Ltd.

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be over looked. Sewing defects Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect the garment quality adversely. Colour defects Variation of colour between the sample and the final garment, wrong colour combinations and mismatching dyes should always be avoided. Sizing defects Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of various parts of a garment like sleeves of XL size for body of L size garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair. Garment defects Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, different shades within the same garment, dropped stitches, exposed notches and raw edges, fabric defects, holes, faulty zippers, loose or hanging sewing threads, misaligned buttons and holes, missing buttons, needle cuts or chews, pulled or loose yarn, stains, unfinished buttonhole, short zippers, inappropriate trimmings etc. all can lead to the end of a brand name even before its establishment.

Garment packing
Folding Putting packing accessories like clips, tags etc. Putting folded garment into polybag Making blister pack of packed garments
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Putting blister packs into boxes Weighing of boxes Packing standard area signed by the merchant Presentation inspection to be conducted before the garments are put into the polybag

Price tags/ barcode tags to be stored in box with size wise dividers. Garments to be stored size wise before the tags/ price tickets are fixed onto them.

Internal finished goods audit

Finished packed garments are offered for final audits in small lots with the size written as a packing slip

Auditor must verify the size wise quantity and take random sampling and audit visual and measurements and issues an audit report, obtaining signature of department incharge.

Final audit
Final audit is conducted for count accuracy, carton audit, visuals and specs and the report is issued, before the goods are offered to buyer final inspection. This final inspection is conducted by corporate independent Q.A. team.

This is how an order from a buyer is executed from a design to a garment....

Pearl Global Ltd.

INTERNSHIP REPORT ON GARMENT MANUFACTURING

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Conclusion
Summer internship has helped me in understanding all the process implicated in an export house and also to relate my theoretical knowledge to the practical knowledge. Following are my learning outcomes: Time Management: Learnt how to manage time and plan tasks to get everything done on the right time. Importance of Documentation: I also learnt the importance of documentation. One has to file his/her records well. Copies must be made if it is used by different people so that there is no chance of the original document being lost. Good Filing: One has to file the documents correctly and not anywhere so that there is no confusion later on. Effective Communication: For smooth flow of work effective communication is always required. Until and unless we communicate well, we cannot get our work done correctly on time. Dealing with different people: Learnt about how to deal with different people irrespective of the designations. Taking follow ups and updating: During my training, sometimes I had to handle 3 to 4 styles in one go. This has helped a lot to me. I used to take follow ups and updates for all the proceedings of those samples. I also learnt to work in team and by this experience I also learnt to study human behavior. It has given me the detailed overview of the processes involved in producing a garment for example merchandising, fabrics and trims sourcing, quality assurance and production. It gave me the process flow and the different stages through which a garment passes through while production takes place.

Pearl Global Ltd.