by Chris Honsberger

Materials List:

' drive pulley tr 1 piece 3/4" lir plywood 30"x9" frame ! 1 piece maple 2"x6"x12" idler post and table fittings I 1 piece 5,/8" plywood 6"x4" tilt table n 1 piece arborite 6"x4" table top I 1 piece 5-1/2"x17"x3/4" pine dust pick-up box ! 1 piece 1" sw. steel tubing 5-1,24" long idler post n 1 3" industrial roller bearing caster idler pulley I 1 piece 1/4" x 3" steel rod table pivot bolt I 1 piece No.8 hard-drawn steel wire 18" long spring Z 23"x1/4"-20 bolts and hex. nuts tr 2 1 "x6 Robertson bevelhead wood screws n 2 1"x8 Robertson bevelhead wood screws Z 7 1 /2" x8 Robertson bevelhead wood screws Z 2 2"xB Robertson bevelhead wood screws J 7 1/4" flat washers ! 1 1" x 42" sanding belt a 1 3/4" adjustable pulley D 14 1" finishing nails a 2 1-1/2" hooks and eyes n 1 vacuum cleaner hose adaptor n 1 cup hook
6"x6"x1-1/2'
14

1 piece birch or maple

I f

L 11/4 h.p. motor

41-1/4x1/4 - 20 bolts
1 length 1613 heavy duty cord and
cap

I !

1 piece pine3/4"x2-1/4"x8" dust pick-up bottom 2 piece pine3/4"x2-1/4"x4-3/4" dust pick-up sides

Cutting List:

Approximate cost: 930.00 less motor

!
n
tr

A piece fir plywood 3/4"x9"x9-1/2" horizontal frame 1 piece fir plywood

3/4"x9"x|3-3/4"
vertical frame 2 piece fir plywood 4"x4" Angle angle braces ! 1 piece fir plywood 5/8"x4"x6" table n 1 piece arborite 4"x6" table top n 1 piece maple 9,zi 6"xl "x7" belt pad ! 1 piece maple 1"x1"x6-1/4" n 1 piece maple5/8"x2-1/2"x6-1/4" ! 1 piece maple 1/2"x2-1/2"x6-1/4" idler post box I 1 piece maple 1/2"x1"x6-1/4" n 1 piece maple 1/2"x1"x1" n 1 piece maple 1"x1"x6-1/2" idler post n 1 piece mapleT/8"x1-5/8"x3" table bracket I 2 piece maple 3,/8"x1 /2"x3-1/4" n 2 piece maple 1/4"x1/2"x3-5/8" table guide n 2 piece maple 1/4"x1/2"x3/8" D 2 piece maple 1/4"x1/2"x7/8" n 1 piece pine 3/4"x5-1 /2"x8" dust pick-up back

Hand Saw Table Saw Wood Lathe

DrillPress
Jointer

1/4" Hand Drill 1/4" DrillBit 3/8" DrillBit 4" C Clamp

Hack Saw Chisels Robertson Screw Drivers Countersinking Drill Bits lor Screws White Wood Glue Contact Cement 1" Wood Bit 1/4-20 Die-Wrench

Assembly:
This useful bench tool was made from odds and ends found in the shop and can be easily assembled. lt has proven to be

a reliable and useful tool for the shop with a thousand and one uses. The frame was cut to size as shown, then glued and screwed together using the 7 No.8x1-1/2" wood screws, three

Canadian Workshop, February 1982

along the back and two in each of the

brackets.

Next the idler arm box is glued and nailed together with 1 " finishing nails. This box is mounted to the upright with
the top and f ront f lush with the edges us-

ing the Iwo 1/4x3" bolts. This was

clamped in position while the two 1/4"
holes were drilled and countersunk into

the idler arm box.

The belt pad has two pilot holes drilled

for the 1" x No.B wood screws, these holes were made oblong to allow for
slight side adjustment if necessary. The pad can also be left until after the drive and idler pulleys are mounted and the belt installed to be certain the alignment is correct for the belt to ride on the pad with just a slight pressure. The idler pulleywas taken f rom a 3" in-

all sides to obtain a drive fit in the 1" sq.

drilled and countersunk.

dustrial type roller bearing caster and has proven to be very satisfactory. The

steel tubing forming the yoke. As no spring could be found to suit this equipment to act as belt tensioner, one

Before these pieces are glued and

screwed to the existing strips, the table

bracket and locking bolt must

be

yoke to support the idler pulley was

macie by cutting the 1 " square steel tube down on each side, then remove the two narrow pieces. After dressing the rough edges, the remaining sides are formed to the desired shape and the holes drilled to accept the pulley axel bolt. One hole is filed oblong to provide some adjustment for proper alignment of the belt should it prove necessary. As this pulley was flat

was formed from a 14" length of No.B

hard drawn steel wire and placed in the idler arm box. This has worked well, providing good tension. The tilt table was shaped as shown, the edge rounded off and a throat cut out

to permit the proper movement of

the

table. The arborite top may now be fitted

using contact cement. Now the 1./4"x

1/2"x3-5/8" strips were glued and nailed to the underside of the table. The 1 / 4" x1 /2" x7 /8" and 1 / 4" x1 /2" x3/ 8" spacers and the 3/8"x1/2"x3" strips
were put in place and clamped while the pilot holes for the 1"x No.6 screws are

assembled and installed for it will be impossible to do this once glued. Thread lhe 1/4" x 3" steel rod far enough to permit a nut to be run on and jammed leaving 1/2" ol rod extending beyond the nut. Drill the table support bracket as shown and countersink the nut on the rod into the notched side of the bracket. lnstall the bolt into the bracket and you are now ready to complete the

faced, a crown was built up by using

electricians' tape to build up the centre of the face.

guide, making certain the pieces are assembled correctly. Glue and screw them together, then position the table
with the bracket f lush with the f ront edge of the frame and so that the bottom of the

Using the jointer, reduce the 1 "x1"

maple post for 2" on one end, equally on

15

table rests on he 3/4" plywood frame giving the table an angle of 90o to the
surface of the belt. Clamp in this position and drill the pilot holes for the two 2"x8 wood screws. After screwing the bracket to the frame, install a 1,/4" washer and hexagonal nut on the exposed threaded end and tighten, This now gives you a means of locking the table at any desired angle to the belt. To make the drive pulley, mount the 6"x6"x1/2" rough trimmed block on the face plate of the wood lathe and turn to size, being sure to put a crown on the

pulley face. Next turn the correct size and angle of the one half of the ad-

justable pulley into this side of the block. When this is complete, remove from the faceplate and from a scrap piece of stock turn a wood chuck to fit the hole just completed. Mount the pulley on this chuck and turn the opening for the other half of the adjustable pulley. Be sure to countersink this half far enough to permit the set screw to properly lock the pulley. The completed pulley is now installed on a standafd 1 / 4 H.P. motor and tested for trueness. Should it need adjusting, it can be done by clamping the motor to the bench and building a temporary tool rest; make the necessary adjustments with extreme care,

Position the motor on the bed of the frame and install the pulley. Fit the belt and roughly align the pulleys. Mark out the holes for the motor mounting bolts, drill bed and mount motor, then properly align belt. To help eliminate the dust when sanding, a pick-up box was made using an extra fitting from a vacuum hose repair kit to enable the shop-vac to be connected. This box is fastened to the grinder by two small door hooks and eyes for easy removal for cleaning. A cup hook was screwed into the frame as a handy location to hang the wrench for adjusting the table.

l.

View of motor side of frame and table.

2. Table side and drive pulley detail.

3. Table in tilted position.

4. Drive pulley showing screw poslllons and

6. ldler arm box and belt pad

hook eyes for dust pick-up.

16

Canadian Workshop, February 1982

7. ldler arm Yoke and PulleY

8. ldler arm box and yoke assemblY

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9. lnside of dust pick-up.

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10. Outside of dust Pick-uq.

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17

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18

Canadian Workshop, February 1982