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Fabric inspection systems for apparel industry! Garments, Fashion & Retail I Features I The ITJ

2 (a) What is garment inspection? Garment inspection Inspection in reference to quality control in the apparel industry can be defined as the visualexamination or review of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing threads, etc), partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation tosome standards, specifications, or requirements including the measurement of the garments toensure the satisfaction of the customers.
All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality of the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so therefore buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods of inspection techniques all through the production and prior to shipment release from factory. Following correct inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventually shipment release gives the clear judgment of the quality of the garment.

Steps of Garment Inspection

Flow

Chart

of

Garment
of of spec side side

Inspection
Quantity accessories inspection Inspection Inspection Inspection

Confirmation Confirmation Size In Out Final Packing

Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described Below: 1. Confirmation of Quantity:

First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the vendors packing list by counting all Pecs. Of each box. If Qty is not matching to the packing list and written in the box then this discrepancy is informed to the vendor.

Fabric inspection machines F a br ic ins p ec tion is us ua lly d one on fa br ic ins p ec tion ma c hine. T hes e mac hines a r e d es ig ned s o tha t r olls of fabr ic can

2. Confirmation of Accessories:
Next step is the confirmation of accessories, here we confirm brand tags, demerit tags, Price tags, or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other labels and accessories as required by the buyer.

3. Size Spec inspection:

After confirmation of accessories all pcs are checked as per size spec based on the instruction sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any measurement problem is noticed then we check the original sample and inform the buyer same time.

4. In Side Inspection:
At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no fabric defect, poor stitching, and stains etc in the garment.

5. Out Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color variation, weaving defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching, bad smell , dying defect and stains etc in the garment.

6. Final Inspection:
Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here garment is rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly without missing any checking step if any defect is noticed we put it into rejection bin or send it for repay.

7. Packing:
All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging and then they are send for needle inspection .

So, depending on the quality of defect some garments are send for repair and some are rejected.

QUALITY Ideal condition of excellence. Product quality is based on a product attribute.

User-based quality is fitness for use, manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements,

value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price ISO 9000:2000 Defines it as degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfill requirement.

Quality inspection in apparel industries: Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required measurements. Quality inspection in apparel industries: done to control quality of garments. Checking of fabric, sewing thread, button, stitch, zipper, garments size etc according to required standard or specification is known as inspection. Quality inspection is important for every section of apparel industries.

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Steps in apparel industries to control quality 1. Raw Material Inspection; 2. In Process Inspection; 3. Final Inspection;

Raw Material Inspection: Fabric Inspection Sewing Thread Inspection Trims & Accessories check Fabric Inspection
done through Fabric Inspection machine. very important for every industries . In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store room. For those defects it will be problem able for making garments making. In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength, color, quantity To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.

Sewing Thread Inspection During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of the great problems for garments manufacturing. So that it is necessary to check thread construction, sewability, color, imperfection, finish, package

densi ty, winding, yardage of sewing thread In thread construction thread number, thread ply, thread tenacity, thread elongation, number of twist is necessary to check Trims & Accessories check Button, Zippers interlining, label & tags also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required quality. For button, button strength, button color, quantity etc are checked.
FABRIC INSPECTION POLICIES
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for our garments. It also allow us to prevent loss of material and time during the garment manufacturing process. Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prio r to spreading and cutting because: Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the fabric. A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.

Purpose of fabric inspection

Fabric

Inspection

is

an

important

aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric

construction, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand or feel, length/width, appearance. print Fabric defect and inspection

ensures to minimise the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
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Fabric inspection systems for apparel industry! Garments, Fashion & Retail I Features I The ITJ

The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for garments. As fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine acceptability from a quality viewpoint. Some garment manufacturers rely on their fabric suppliers to perform fabric inspection and fabric defects. In many small companies, spreading and cutting is done by the same personnel and fabric is inspected as it is being spread on a table for cutting. Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting because: Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the fabric. A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked. The patterns are cut around the defects so as not to include them in the finished garment
How much to inspect?

When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. A minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric is recommended. Fabric Inspection Systems There a re va rious fabric inspection systems:
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10-Point System. Graniteville "78" system. Dallas system. 4- Point system .

4-Point System

T h e 4 -P oi n t Sy s t e m , a ls o c a l l e d t he A m e r i c a n A p p a r e l M a n u fa c t ur e r s ( AAM A) p oin t - g r a d in g s ys t em f or d e t er m i n in g f a b r i c q u a l i t y , i s w i d e l y u s e d b y p r o d u c e r s o f a p p a r e l f a b r i c s a n d i s e n d o r s e d b y t h e A A M A a s w e l l a s t h e A S Q C (American Society or Quality Contr ol). T he 4 -P oint Syste m a ss ig ns 1 , 2, 3 a nd 4 pe na lty p oints a cc ord ing to the s iz e a nd s ig nific a nc e of the d efec t. N o mor e t ha n 4 p e na l ty p o i n ts c a n b e a s s ig n e d fo r a n y s i ng le d e f ec t. D e f ec t c a n b e i n e i t he r l en g t h o r w id th d ir ec ti o n, t he s ys tem r e ma ins th e s ame . Only major de fec ts a re c onsid er ed . No p ena lty p oints a r e as sig ned to minor d efec ts. I n this s ys te m , one s h ould i ns p e c t a t le a s t 1 0 p e r c e nt of the tota l r ol ls in t he s hip ment a nd ma k e s ur e t o s ele c t a t least one roll of e ach c olour wa y. F a br ic de fe cts a r e as sig ned p oints ba se d on the follow ing :

Length of Defect

Penalty points Allotted

1 Point 2 Points 3 Points 4 Points
2 Points

Upto 3 inches 3 - 6 inches 6 - 9 inches Over 9 inches Holes and Openings (1 inch or less) Holes and Openings (over linch)

4 Points

T ota l d e fe c t p oints p er 100 s q ua r e ya rd s of fab r ic ar e ca lc ula ted a nd the a cc ep ta nce cr iter ia is g ener a lly not mor e tha n 40 p e na lty points. F a br ic r olls c onta ining more tha n 40 p oints a r e c ons id er ed "s econds" . The formula to ca lculate pe nalty points pe r 100 square yards is g iven b y:

Total paints seared in the roll _k 3riifl(1

.

Fabric width in inches x Total yards inspeced

T he follow ing ar e notew or thy p oints for this s ys te m:

 N o m o r e t h a n 4 p e n a l t y p o in t s c a n b e a s s i g n e d f o r a ny s i n g l e d e f e c t . The fabric is graded regardless of the end -product. T h is s y s t e m m a ke s n o p r o vis i on f o r th e p r ob a b i li t y o f m i n or d e f ec ts . 4 p o i nt s ys te m is m os t w id e l y u s e d s ys t e m i n a p p a r e l in d us tr y a s i t is e a s y to te a c h a n d le a r n .

F a b r i c in s p ec ti o n is d o n e in s u i ta b l e a n d s a fe e n vi r on me n t w i t h en o ug h v e n t il a ti o n and proper lighting.

F a b r ic p a s s ing thr oug h th e ins p ec tion fr a m e mus t b e b etw een 4 5 d eg r ee a ng l es to ins p ec t or a nd mus t b e d one on a p p r o p r ia te C ool W lig ht a b o ve vi ew ing a r ea . B a c k lig ht c a n b e us ed a s a n d w hen need ed Fabric sp eed on insp ection machine mus t not b e more than 15 ya rds per minute. All fabr ic inspec tion must b e done when 80% of good or lot is rec eived.

prior to inspection.

Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must b 6 . A p p r o v e d s t a nd a r d o f b u l k d y e lo t m us t b e a va i la b l e b e f o r e s ta r t i ng i ns p ec t i on f or available a s s e s s i ng c o l ou r , ha nd , w e ig ht, c ons tr uc tion, finis h a nd vis ua l a pp ear a nc e. 7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and s e l v a g e a n d t h e b e g i n n i n g , midd le a nd end of ea c h r oll mus t b e eva lua ted a nd d oc ume nted . 8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight. 9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard. 10. A ll d e fe cts m us t be flag ged d uring insp ec tion. 1 1 . T he le ng th of e ac h r oll inspe c ted mus t b e compa r ed to leng th as mentioned on s upp lie r tic ke ted ta g a nd any d evia tion mus t b e d oc umented a nd r ep or ted to mill for a d d itiona l r ep lac e me nt to avoid s hor ta ge. 12. If yard d yed or p rinted fa brics are be ing inspec ted the r epeat measureme nt must be done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls. Conclusion

A p pa r e l manufac tur er s ins pe c t the fa b ric s toc k up on ar r iva l, so tha t any fa b ric irr eg ul a r ities a re c a ug ht e a r ly in the p r od uc t io n p r oc es s . T e x ti l e p r od uc er s a ls o g e n er a l l y in s p e c t fa b r ic s b e fo r e s e nd i ng t he m to ma n u f a c tu r e r s . A f t er id en t i fi c a t i o n of f a b r ic d e f ec ts , a s ys t e m ne ed s t o b e f o ll ow e d to g r a d e t he d e f e c ts t o a s c e r ta in i ts a c c ep ta nc e o r rej ec tion. 4 -P oint fab r ic ins pe c tion sys tem is mos tly us ed in tex tile ind us tr y a round the g lobe now . T his tes t method d e s c r ib e s a p r oc e d ur e to e s ta b lis h a numer ic a l d es i g na tio n for g r a d ing of f a b r ic s fr om a vis ua l i ns p e c tio n. It ma y be u s ed f or the d e l iv er y a nd a c c e p t a nc e of f a b r ic s w i th r e q u ir e m e n ts m ut u a l l y a g r e e d u p o n b y t h e p u r c ha s e r a n d th e s up p lier . T h is s ys te m d oes no t e s ta b lis h a q ua lit y le ve l f or a g ive n p r od uc t, b u t r a th e r p r ovid es a mea ns of d ef in ing d efec ts a c c or d ing to the ir s e ve r it y b y a s s ig ning d emer it p oi nt va lues . All t yp e of fa b r ic s w hether g r ey or fin is he d , c a n b e g r ad e d by this s ys tem.

FABRIC SAMPLING PLAN

The following sampling plan lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each pattern, color way, or print, which must be inspected. All rolls to be sampled will be randomly selected by the inspector. Once a roll has been selected, no adjustments will be made.
SAMPLE PLAN

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Lot Size Yards 0 - 2,500 2,501 5,001 - 20,000 5,00 20,001 - 30,000 0

Inspection Yards not less 251 -than 500 500 400 1,200 1,600 1,800

Lot Size Meter s

Inspection Meter s 230 450 not less 360 - than 1465 460 1,100 1,645 2 1 8 6

Percent of Total Lot

02,301 - 2,300 4500 4,501 18,301 18,30 27,40 0 0 This tag All inspected rolls will be identified with an inspection tag. prior to the production cutting.

0 % 0 % %

may not be removed by anyone

POINT CALCULATION For an Individual Roll:

Points per 100 Square Yards = Total Points for the roll x 3600 Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (inch) Points per 100 Square Meters = Total Points for the roll x 100,000 Inspected Meters x Cuttable Fabric Width (MM)
For a Shipment:

Total Shipment Points per 100 Sq. Yards = Total Average Points per Linear Yard x 3600 Shipment Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (inch) Total Shipment Points per 100 Sq. Meters = Total Average Points per Linear Meter x 10,000 Shipment Inspected Meters x Cuttable Fabric Width (MM)

In Process Inspection Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are called in process inspection.
4.0Process Flow Chart for In Process Inspection

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Fabric inspection systems for apparel industry! Garments, Fashion & Retail I Features I The ITJ

Manufacturing Process Approved

Product sampled at periodic intervals and measured for conformance to s p ecification I nspection results Accept Manufacturing continues maintenance process with normal and adjustment s Dis p Date: 04/05/07 o This document expires one day after printing s i
Revision: A

Rejec t Nonconfo rmanc e is Finished identifi product is ed and sorted nonconformi Page: 12 of 8 ng parts Last Printed: 2/19/2008 segregated for

 e Scrap w o Retur additi r pro n to ona k c job l e lot s for si n g

Manufacturing process is appr repaired and ov new first First article al article is approval is submitted given for process and the manufacturi ng process restarted

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 It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in process.
marker making fabric spreading fabric cutting sorting/ bundling fabric sewing seam defects assembly defects pressing/ finishing defects

Marker Making

Precise arrangement of pattern pieces or process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces

Points to be considered before marker making

Fabric length must be higher than marker length.

oFabric width must be higher than marker width.

oLength of the cutting table.

oProduction planning. o When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric. o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
Factors which must be checked It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker. In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked Pattern direction should be checked. The entire pattern are sated correctly. Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during marker making. During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate. During marker making fabric length and width should be considered. Marker width Notches & drill marks Knife clearance Checks and stripes (mittering)

Marking defects:
1.Shaded Parts:- All component pans not included in same section. 2. Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or pleating. 3. Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing

twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component parts. 4. Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern. Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space. 5. Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced. 6. Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or requiring results. 7 Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material. 8. Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match. 9. Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped fabrics.
Spreading inspection
Factors which must be checked Fabric Nature Ply alignment Ply tension/slackness Bowing Splicing Grain-line Shade variation Selvedge alignment & tightness. Fabric width Checks Static electricity

Spreading Defects

1.Uneven Spreading:- Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back edge of marker not catching all ply. 2.Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker width. 3.Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks too long or too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted. 4.Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments. .Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow. 6. Misdirected Napping:- Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed in spreading. 7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face up or face to face as required.
Cutting inspection
Factors/defects which must be checked Frayed edge Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges Ply to ply fusion Single edge fusion Pattern precision Notches & drillers Cutting Equipment precision Cutting Defects

1.Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both edges causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting dimensions of garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show distinct lines, notches and punch marks. 2. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades. 3. Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill used. 4. Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through entire bundle or omitted. 5. Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes. 6. Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted. 7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned. 8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles. 9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.

Sewing inspection
Most large & important section. Necessary to check all the machine operators work. Some common faults and problems must be considered
Sewing defects Seaming defects Assembly defects Pressing or Finishing defects

Sewing inspection Stitching Defects

Needle damage

 Skipped stitch Thread breaks Seam pucker Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch Staggered stitch Improperly formed stitch

Sewing inspection Stitching Defect and Cause 1.Machine do not run-# Not plugged in or turned on #Outlet switch off. #Circuit breakdown. 2.Machine do not stitch properly-# Machine dirty. #Machine incorrectly threaded #Needle needs replacement. 3.Machine does not feed Properly#Insufficient or too much pressure on pressure foot #Stitch length too short. 4.Skip stitching-# Machine incorrectly threaded. #Machine dirty #Needle damage/needle set or threaded incorrectly. #Needle makes hole too large or too short #Needle too much fine for thread #Thread tension too tight/ thread stretches when heated. #Machine timing needs adjustment #Fabric not held properly. Sewing inspection

Seaming defects:
Uneven width Fault stitch line Back stitch must be given properly Twisting Check or strip matching Seam matching Wrong stitch face side or back side; Thread color shade variation.

Sewing inspection Assembly defects:

Finished component of not accurate size. Garments not accurate in size. If any design skip to join. Component is not joining in right place. If lining is tight or loose. If parts direction is wrong.

Sewing inspection Pressing or Finishing:

Fabric burn or burn spot attach with body. Any types of water spot. Color shading occurs because of hot ironing. Button is insecure or broken. Garments are folding accurately. Pocket is pressed smoothly and except fold. Garments shape is accurate. Stains, Wrinkles, Correct labels, Any thing that detracts from overall appearance

Sewing inspection

Folding defects
garment is not folded to specification
garment not folded with proper material like cardboard, tissues or other material. incorrect pins or folds garment not buttoned label not showing

Final Inspection
In final inspection generally inspect fully complete garments. Before final inspection there has no chance to check complete garments. It is important from the buyer to finally check. In final inspection normally garments size, form fitting, fabric faults are check.

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