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Building Baluns For Wire Antennas and Beams

This document provides instructions for building two types of baluns - a 4:1 balun and a 1:1 balun - for use with wire antennas. The 4:1 balun is constructed by tightly binding two lengths of copper wire and winding them 7 turns around a ferrite rod. This balun can be used for off-center fed dipoles or twin feed antennas up to 400W. The 1:1 balun is made similarly but with three lengths of copper wire wound trifilarly around the rod. Testing showed the homemade baluns performed as well or better than commercial models. Proper construction and tuning is emphasized for safety and performance.
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100% found this document useful (3 votes)
4K views5 pages

Building Baluns For Wire Antennas and Beams

This document provides instructions for building two types of baluns - a 4:1 balun and a 1:1 balun - for use with wire antennas. The 4:1 balun is constructed by tightly binding two lengths of copper wire and winding them 7 turns around a ferrite rod. This balun can be used for off-center fed dipoles or twin feed antennas up to 400W. The 1:1 balun is made similarly but with three lengths of copper wire wound trifilarly around the rod. Testing showed the homemade baluns performed as well or better than commercial models. Proper construction and tuning is emphasized for safety and performance.
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Building Baluns for wire antennas and beams by ZS1JHG

Baluns are easy to build and efficient if you build them well and use them correctly.

Building a 4:1 Balun ( For an Off Centre Fed Dipole or twin feed (300/600 ohm) antenna including some types of wire beams)
Take two equal lengths of copper wire about 300mm long and bind them tightly together with black insulation tape. (You dont want any gaps between the wires so bind very well). Hint use only new straight wire not old kinked copper wire. For powers up to 400 Watts (PEP) use 1.8mm or better 2.0mm solid copper wire. Wind the two (bifilar) copper wires 7 turns onto a round piece of ferrite rod about 90mm long and 10mm in diameter; connect up as per the template overlay. Hint mark both ends of one wire with masking tape.

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Template and overlay for building a combined 4:1 balun and centre connector for a wire antenna. An alternative mounting in a box is shown in the photo. This 4:1 balun has connectors for 300/450 ohm Window/Twin feedline.

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4:1 Balun mounted in a metal enclosure with connectors for coax and 300/450 ohm Window Feedline. Note the use of plain veroboard for mounting. Plain glass fibre pcb board and or thin Perspex can also be used. The veroboard has been mounted on stand-off supports.

The above type of Balun (1:1 version) recommended by Les Moxon G6XN in his book HF Antennas for All Locations is also used by a very well known antenna manufacturer on all its HF beams.

I have conducted tests between this balun and a commercial twin ferrite ring balun from 7Mhz to 28Mhz and got a lower swr over the frequency range with the G6XN type balun. Recommended to keep your impedance to 25 to 300 ohm range. To protect your balun tune up on low power and adjust your SWR first to the lowest possible reading of less than 2:1, then increase to full power.

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Building a 1:1 Balun

( For a Beam antenna or Dipole )

The same method as for the 4:1 balun only 3 equal lengths (trifilar) of copper wire ( recommended 1.8 to 2.0mm diam.) about 300mm long are bound tightly together with insulation tape. Wind 7 turns onto a ferrite rod about 90mm long (Yes it will be long enough if you close wind, see photo on page 3 of 4:1 balun, lots of space left)

Template of 1:1 balun showing how the trifilar windings are connected.

Note only two windings are shown, the first and the last windings. Just mark both ends of the three wires before you wind them onto the ferrite rod. Use masking tape and mark A and A, B and B, C and C (the centre winding). Now close wind the three wires onto the rod 7 turns and secure the ends with insulating tape. The wire marked C the centre winding is connected (soldered) to wire B at the beginning (turn 1) and to the wire A at the end (turn7). That is to say wires A and B are cross-connected by wire C (the centre winding).

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