Color Manual
Color Manual
UNICOMPANY s.r.l. > Via Pontina Vecchia Km 33,600 > 00040 Ardea (RM) > tel.+39 06 9145177 > fax +39 06 91821660
Colour Manual.
I T S C O L O R
C O L O U R
M A N U A L
INDEX
Discovering colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Hair structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Origin of natural pigmentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Perception of colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Principles of colorimetry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
pH scale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
How colour products work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Temporary colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Semi-permanent colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Colouring with a developer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Technical diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Recommendations for proper colour service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Lightening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Its Color Semi-Permanent Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Its Color Permanent Colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
O2 specific developer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Its Color Permanent Colour : basic application method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Its Color Permanent Color: the Tone-on-Tone Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Natural series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Natural Ash series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Gold series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Copper Gold series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Copper series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Intense Copper series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Red series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Mahogany Red series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Copper Red series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Mahogany series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Violet Red series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Cuban Tobacco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Virginia Tobacco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Fashion colours / Chocolate Prune Chestnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Red Red / Ruby Red series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Red Red / Flame Red series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
High Lift series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Neutral . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Colour Correctors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Extra Blonding product . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Bleaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Treatment after colouring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
U N I C O M P A N Y
I T S C O L O R
C O L O U R
M A N U A L
DISCOVERING COLOUR
Colour services have always been recognised as the prince of professional beauty salon treatments.
For both men and women, hair colour is a sign of personality, natural embellishment and facial beauty. Colour
can adapt to our personality or help us create a new one, revealing new forms and ways of expressing ourselves.
Whether it be rich, full-bodied, splendid, or delicate, soft and merely hinted at, colour gives new life to the hair
and uncovers new facial characteristics, illuminating one feature or hiding another.
From a womans point of view, colour is an extremely important service, generating increasingly high expectations, which are not always met. From market research carried out it has in fact emerged that many women are not
satisfied with the colour service provided by their hairdresser.
The most common reasons for this are as follows:
o The results obtained this time are not the same as the ones obtained last time;
o The colour is not always even;
o Duration is not satisfactory.
This search for an image on the part of many women has resulted in colour treatments being offered on the retail
market, in outlets such as herbalists, chemists, perfumery shops and supermarkets, where a wide range of inviting packs are available at greatly reduced cost.
However, as we know, these market trends have been a determining factor in slowing the development of colour
services in the salon, to the advantage of do-it-yourself colour in the home, the results of which cannot be compared with those obtained with a professional application.
So let us talk about colour from the hairdressers point of view.
As we understand it, colouring does not simply mean applying the traditional colour product, but above all knowing how to carry out both the simplest operations, such as colour enhancing or semi-permanent colouring, and
more complex operations, such as mches, sunstreaks and Balayage or lightening and bleaching.
From the above it can easily be seen that nowadays, as never before, professional choices must fall more and
more on making the best possible use of colour products, transforming the service into a genuine beauty treatment for the hair.
At the same time, all professional hair colour manufacturers must make an effort to make the specific characteristics of their own technical products known to customers, illustrating the basic rules to be followed to ensure
optimal results.
This manual has been designed to present Its Color colour products to hairdressers, illustrating their characteristics and use; at the same time, it also provides a series of basic technical information on hair structure, so as to
improve the understanding of how professional hair colour works.
We hope you enjoy reading it, and wish you all the best in your job!
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HAIR STRUCTURE
Hair is mainly made up of a protein, keratin.
The other substances it contains are water, carbohydrates,
lipids, minerals and vitamins.
A hair can be divided into three layers: the cuticle, the
medulla and the cortex.
CORTECCIA
CORTEX
MIDOLLO
MEDULLA
CUTICOLA
CUTICLE
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C O L O U R
M A N U A L
BULBO
BULB
MELANOCITA MELANOSOMES
MELANOSOMI
MELANOCYTE
CHERATINOCITA
KERATINOCYTE
CELLULE
GERMINATIVE
GERMINAL
CELLS
PAPILLA DERMICA
DERMAL
PAPILLA
The quantity, distribution and shape of these granules, as well as the type of pigments they contain, all go to form
the many natural shades of hair colour that can be encountered every day, and that the knowledgeable professional hairdresser attempts to recreate or even improve.
CAPELLI
BLONDE
HAIR
BIONDI
CAPELLI
RED
HAIR
ROSSI
CAPELLI
BLACK
HAIR
NERI
When the chemical reaction decreases and there is a drop in Melanin production levels, the first grey hairs begin
to appear. There is no way of reversing this process naturally, but thanks to hair colour processes it is possible to
restore hair to its original splendour.
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PERCEPTION OF COLOUR
We have seen how natural hair colour is formed.
But what makes it possible for us to see a specific type of colour?
Why is it that come hair looks redder or blonder?
To explain how this comes about, we will refer to the physics of vision.
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Our perception of colour is also influenced by experience and the habit we have of seeing things always in the
same way. This is one of the reasons why the brain refuses to associate images and colours that are not usual
for them..
We find it difficult to accept abnormal colours without instinctively trying to correct them.
Experience also has the merit of enabling us to see colours as the same even under different lights, because
the eye and the brain compensate for variations. However, this is not true in certain conditions, for example
under neon lights; this is because these lights do not contain the whole spectrum of colours, so that the results
are falsified and the eye is prevented from perceiving the actual shade of colour.
For this reason, hairdressers are not recommended to use neon lights in the salon, particularly in areas dedicated to colour treatments.
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PRINCIPLES OF COLORIMETRY
To check the existence of the chromatic spectrum personally, using a simple test, all we have to do is pass white
sunlight through a triangular prism and observe how it is broken up into the colours in the spectrum.
This experiment was carried out scientifically for the first time by Newton in 1676, but it is extremely easy to experience this phenomenon, even merely by observing day-to-day things.
Who has not seen rainbow-coloured bands appear on day-to-day objects, such as cut glass ashtrays, when they
are placed on a desk in the path of a ray of sunshine?
The opposite effect is not so easy to observe: should we wish to recompose the range of colours obtained in this
way, we would have to pass them through a converging lens and, by addition, we would obtain white light again.
additive and subtractive colours
The two experiments described above give us the following information:
colours are known as additive when, added together, they produce white light.
They are known as subtractive when the produce black or coloured light.
All the colours of objects are subtractive, because they absorb all light rays except the ones that correspond to
their colour.
primary and secondary colours
the colours used by artists and hairdressers are divided into primary, secondary and tertiary colours.
Primary colours are red, yellow and blue. These are pure colours, and cannot be reproduced.
When mixed together, the primary colours absorb all the coloured frequencies of light and give black. (Fig. 1)
2
1
When combined with each other two by two in equal parts, they create the secondary colours. orange, purple and
green, as illustrated below:
blue + yellow = green
blue + red = purple
red + yellow = orange
(Fig. 2)
Secondary colours become brighter when set next to their opposite (or complementary) primary colour.
When mixed, they produce a neutral colour (brown).
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M A N U A L
When pairs of primary and secondary colours are mixed, tertiary colours are obtained, as follows:
blue + green = green-blue
blue + purple = purple-blue
red + orange = orange-red
red + purple = purple-red
yellow + orange = orange-yellow
yellow + green = green-yellow
Tones of colour that neutralise each other, creating a neutral colour (brown) when mixed together, are known as
opposite or complementary colours.
The Oswald star shown below is a graphic illustration that makes identification of primary and secondary
colours simple, and defines opposite, or complementary colours. (Fig. 3)
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PH SCALE
The pH is a value that expresses the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a solution.
This value is measured using a reference scale, known as the pH scale, in which the values range from 0 to
14 and in which 7 represents neutral.
The only substance with a neutral pH is distilled water.
Skin and hair have a pH of 5.5/6.5, that is to say slightly acid, which provides added protection against
aggression by external agents.
Some professional hair care products, such as perms or colours using a developer, have an alkaline pH in
order to have a more decisive effect on the hair.
An alkaline pH actually modifies hair structure, opening up the scales and allowing substances to penetrate
deeper into the hair itself.
Products with an acid pH, on the other hand, close the scales, making hair shiny and easy to comb and
restoring normal conditions.
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12
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TEMPORARY COLOUR
This is the simplest method, excellent for customers who have doubts about using colour, or to attract younger
customers who want professional advice on how to change their hair colour whenever they want, but without the
restrictions imposed by permanent colour.
As the name suggests, temporary colour is short-lasting, approximately 4-5 shampoos, does not lighten, and
does not cover grey, but will mask grey provided the percentage is low and it is evenly distributed.
It will create new reflexes or intensify natural colour, as it has a high affinity with keratin. Temporary colour is also
known as direct colour, because the pigments it contains, which are large and are already coloured at the time of
use (i.e. they do not need to be activated) are fixed directly onto the cuticle.
Because of its characteristics, temporary colour is applied on clean, towel-dried hair.
If the hair is particularly sensitive, or has been chemically treated (perm), the application time must be calculated
with greater care, halving it to prevent excessive deposit that would make the results too intense.
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SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR
This type of colour has a longer life than temporary colour (6-8 shampoos) and, like the latter, does not lift, or at
any rate only gives a minimum of lift. However, unlike temporary colour, the pigments are initially colourless, and
require a specific activator in order to start the process. Once they have been mixed with the activator the pigments become active and, because they are extremely small in size, they penetrate into the cuticle. Semi-permanent colour gives longer-lasting colour and reflexes, it can be used to create new reflexes and to mask or cover
even high percentages of grey hair.
Because of these characteristics it is generally well accepted both by more mature customers, who choose it to
cover the first signs of grey hair, and by younger customers, who want the colour they select to last longer.
In this regard, the transition to semi-permanent colour is almost compulsory after temporary colour, to introduce
the customer to increasingly specialised techniques, and at the same time increase fidelity.
For application the hair must be washed and dried under a heat source, to ensure that grease and styling products do not prevent proper penetration. Processing times are generally between 20 and 30 minutes, but can be
reduced by half on fine and treated hair, to prevent excessive deposit.
At the end of the process it is also advisable to use a specific shampoo, to remove any residual product from the
hair.
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U N I C O M P A N Y
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This is why this type of colour gives such excellent coverage (very large molecules of colour inside the fibre) and
is so resistant to washing. Between 30 and 40 minutes the colouring action of the pigments is finally completed,
and the pigments themselves reach maximum size, while at the same time the treatment part of the colour comes
into action. Thus, a proper processing time means more successful colouring, in terms of tone and level, duration, grey coverage and from a point of view of cosmetic effect
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TECHNICAL DIAGNOSIS
The results of the colouring process also depend on the physical characteristics of hair, which are:
Porosity the hairs ability to absorb substances more or less easily.
Grey hair is the least porous, whereas sensitised and treated hair is the most receptive, but at the same time the result
on the latter type of hair is not as long-lasting. Porosity is usually lower near to the scalp, where the hair is younger
and is continually being formed, and higher towards the tips, where the hair has been subjected to more treatment.
Chemical treatment with unsuitable substances, exposure to sunlight without protection, incorrect use of the hairdryer
or excessively hot heat sources, are all factors that help make hair more sensitive, increasing porosity.
Structure the thickness or diameter of hair. This is divided into fine medium - thick
Tenacity the opposite of porosity, that is to say how difficult it is for substances to penetrate the hair.
Hair structure
Thin
Medium
Thick
Hair state
Dry
Normal
Greasy
Permed
Natural
Permed or natural
Percentage grey
Level required
Tone required
Formula to be used
10 vol.
20 vol.
30 vol.
40 vol.
Processing time
Total minutes
Roots
Shaft
Result obtained
Notes
Maintenance products
recommended
U N I C O M P A N Y
Ends
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M A N U A L
The choice of colour and the method used to create it - these are important because, as well as guaranteeing
that the final result is correct, it will lay the foundation to gaining a regular customer
Technical diagnosis - the hairdresser must ascertain the state of the hair, analysing porosity, structure and tenacity. The hairdresser must also talk to the customer to learn about her previous experience with colour and findout
what she would like.
The sensitivity test - this is extremely important, although often not taken into due account; the customer has to
feel protected
Preparazione del colore - follow the manufacturers instructions carefully, to avoid any possible problems.
Application - always apply to dry, unwashed hair. The head should initially be divided into 4 sectors. The colour
should be applied so that the strands of hair are thoroughly and evenly saturated, to ensure proper colour deposit. In the presence of grey hair (even in small amounts), application should always start from the front, otherwise
it should start from the nape, as this is the area in which hair is most resistant. Avoid the typical error of starting
application around the face, where the hair is more porous and there is a risk of uneven results.
When applying colour for the first time, to virgin hair, it should first be applied to shafts and ends, if necessary
using a higher level of developer (30/40 volumes). Allow a processing time of approximately 20-25 minutes, then
prepare the product again using a lower volume developer (20 volumes) and apply to the growth area (roots).
After approximately 20 minutes processing, apply the product remaining in the bowl to the whole head, after first
removing the excess product deposited during the initial application. The final processing time should be measured from the second application to the roots, and will be approximately 40 minutes.
In short, in the case of first application to average length hair (20/25 cm), the overall processing time is approximately 70 minutes on shafts and ends, and approximately 40 minutes at the roots.
When retouching, apply to the roots first, and then decide on application to shafts and ends according to whether or not they have faded. The colour should be drawn out onto shafts and ends using the applicator brush and
not a comb, unless expressly indicated.
Processing time always follow the processing times indicated. We have already seen how proper development
of the colour molecules takes place over a specific period of time, which cannot be forced. In this regard, it is also
advisable to avoid the use of heat sources, unless specifically required.
Washing before shampooing, emulsify the colour product by massaging it with a few drops of water. This operation helps eliminate residual colouring agents, and reduces the risk of skin irritation. Finally, the shampoo enables all the residual product to be eliminated, and adds brilliance to the colour.
Maintenance it is the job of a modern, well-informed hairdresser to explain to her clients how to keep their new
colour brilliant and intense using specific maintenance products for use at home. This is also the perfect time
forsome salon sales.
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LIGHTENING
The lightening power of a bleach depends first of all on the alkalinity and processing time, and only to a lesser
extent on the volume of peroxide used, which must be carefully chosen and properly used to avoid unnecessary
sensitisation of the hair.
Lightening operations can be divided into:
lightening and decapage
lightening is the process used to give progressive lighting of a natural colour, preparing the hair to receive a new
colour. Lightening agents are able to produce between 2 and 6 levels of lift. If additional lift is required, it is recommended that the operation be carried out in two successive applications (double process).
Lightening is produced by dissolving the pigments.
To speed up the action of lightening products, additives such as ammonia are used, which strengthen the developer and make it act faster.
Initially, the pigment is detached from the keratin structure and progressively dissolved until it has been totally
eliminated. The process then continues progressively dissolving the various pigments until the final result is achieved. This will be lighter than the original colour, but will have different highlights. (Fig. 1)
Decapage, on the other hand, is the lightening of an artificial colour.
In this case, the process progressively eliminates the melanin pigments, sometimes removing them altogether.
This procedure is used above all to totally eliminate the previous colour and replace it with a new one. It is also
the only way to carry out this operation because, as you should always remember,
1
colour does not remove colour.
The pigments are always lifted in the same progressive order, passing through the phases of dark red, red, orange
red, orange, orange yellow, yellow. In order to reach the last phase it is necessary to leave a suitable lightening
agent to process for the proper length of time. Decapage uses the same substances required for lightening, but
unlike lightening processes it uses low volume developers and requires a longer processing time.
Pre-pigmentation
This process may be useful in the case of hair that is extremely stressed or damaged by the use of excessively
aggressive products, such as repeated decapage or high levels of lightening. This type of hair does not accept
colour, or absorbs it in a very irregular way, forming spots, stains and shadows.
However, by using pre-pigmentation it is possible to prevent colours from tending towards ash, obtain darker shades on light bases and make fragile colours more resistant.
Warm tones, such as reds, coppers or golds, must always be used for pre-pigmentation.
The process is very simple: simply take the colour (1 tone lighter if necessary) and, without mixing it with the
developer, apply directly to shafts and ends. To encourage penetration of the product in these areas, which are
normally the most impoverished, massage it with your fingers, always remembering to wear gloves. On completing this operation there is no need for any further processing time, and you can move on to apply the actual
colour mixture.
Mordenting
Sometimes, when the hair is particularly thick, hard or with tightly closed scales (characteristics that are normally
encountered in very dark hair), the colouring product is unable to penetrate sufficiently and, as a result, cannot act
properly.
It may therefore be necessary to pre-prepare the hair using 20 volume peroxide, which should be distributed over
the hair using a cotton-wool pad, without any particular precautions. After leaving to process for a short time, it
will be possible to apply the colour. Alternatively, if considered advisable, use a hood for a few minutes before
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applying the final colour, to make the mordenting action of the peroxide even more effective.
Application of a lightening agent
must always be on dry, unwashed hair, after dividing the head of hair into 4 sections.
Unlike permanent colour, application always commences from the nape (when lightening, it is obviously unnecessary to worry about the percentage grey) and the product is applied to shafts and ends.
After leaving to process for a certain time the product is applied again, this time to the roots as well, and then to
the shafts and ends again. (The lightening action is faster at the roots, due to the heat produced by the scalp: for
this reason application in this area takes place after that on the shafts and ends).
When retouching, apply to the roots only.
The processing time is generally defined according to the type of product and the hairdressers experience, and
the hair should be checked carefully throughout the set processing time in order to avoid undesirable results.
Lightening products have a maximum processing time, beyond which there is no further lightening action, but the
aggressive effects on hair increase considerably.
For this reason it is pointless to continue with interminable processing because, quite apart from anything else,
excessive or insufficient processing times, along with incorrect diagnosis and/or preparations, are among the
most common causes of unsuccessful lightening.
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M A N U A L
LEVEL REQUIRED
1
2
1
2
3
4
3
4
20 - 50%
1
1/2 1
1/2 3
3
4
50 - 100%
1
1/2 1
1/2 3
3
1/2 3
1/2 4
5 ml Red Corrector
5
6
6
1/2 7
1/2 7
1/2 8
1/2
1/2
1/2
1/2
4
5
5 ml Red Corrector
1/2
5
1/2 6,3
1/2 7
1/2 6,3
1/2
5 ml Yellow Corrector
8,3
9
35 ml 9
1/2
1/2
5 ml Yellow Corrector
10
10
1/2
1/2 9
Neutral
7
9
3/4 9
1/4 8,3
3/4 9
3/4 Neutral
1/2
1/2
7
8,3
1/2 8,3
1/2 9
9
1/2
1/2
5 ml Yellow Corrector
NB: To give excellent grey coverage on particularly tenacious hair, it is recommended you mix the Natural series
or the Gold series with the Fantasy shades.
In the case of particularly difficult hair, with high levels of grey, it is recommended that you use the 3% activator.
How to use
It is recommended that Its Color Semi-Permanent Gel be applied on hair that has been washed and dried or
towel-dried, particularly in the presence of grey hair.
The two cool shades, Platinum Silver and Slate, should be diluted with Neutral if they are to be applied to particularly porous, treated hair.
Optimum processing time: 20 minutes.
To cover grey, it is recommended that you process for 5 minutes under a drier hood with a cap and 15 minutes at
room temperature (without cap or hood).
When processing has been completed, emulsify the Gel Creme using a few drops of water, then rinse carefully
and wash with Its Color Shampoo for Colour-treated Hair.
Its Color Semi-permanent Gel does not stain clothing.
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Benefits
1 - No irritation or burning, either with the high lift products or with the
other tone-on-tone series (obviously provided the recommended
creme colour + developer mixture is used).
2 - Long-lasting level and tone (the level does not lighten much, and
highlights do not deteriorate into undesirable tones).
3 - Maintenance of cosmetic factors are encouraged, in terms of hair
diameter thickness and tensile strength.
4 - The classical smell of ammonia is very limited, both during preparation of the colour and developer mix, and during processing.
5 - After Its Color colour treatment, it is always recommended that you
treat hair with specific colour maintenance products, such as Its
Color Shampoo for Colour-treated Hair, followed by application of
Its Color Balm for Colour-treated Hair.
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O2 SPECIFIC DEVELOPER
The Its Color tone-on-tone series must only be mixed with O2 specific developer of the required volume, in a ratio
of 1 to 1 (equal doses), with the exception of the High Lift Series, which must always be mixed in double doses
and only with O2 at 40 volumes.
The recommended processing time is between 30 and 40 minutes. For the high lift products the processing time
is extended to 45 minutes.
Bearing in mind that Its Color is a 150 ml tube (approx. 3 applications), it is recommended that you use scales to
ensure the mixture is correct.
O2 developers
O2 developers are available in 4 volume strengths:
10 vol. developer:
for maximum colour deposit on particularly fragile hair; to obtain approximately 1 level of
lift or if you wish to lower the level.
20 vol. developer:
to lift approximately 2 levels with excellent colour deposit, in the presence of fragile, fine
and normal natural hair; also gives effective grey coverage.
30 vol. developer:
this is the volume recommended to give approximately 3 levels of lift, for excellent grey
coverage and in the presence of particularly difficult hair types (thick, tenacious)
ral hair that tends to be greasy. Also recommended for use with
If it is necessary to carry out re-pigmentation of previously bleached hair, it is recommended that the 5 volume developer be used.
(To obtain the 5 vol. developer, mix 10 vol. developer with equal amounts of distilled
water).
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With the Its Color Natural Series and the other Tone-on-Tone series, it is also possible to use 30 vol*. O2
Developer, particularly in the case of hair that is particularly difficult to cover.
The use of 30 vol. Developer will result in extremely vivid colour and lights at any level.
Even the darker levels of the tone-on-tone series, such as 4 or 5 (which, on the colour scale, cannot be particularly brightly coloured), are given added brightness and reflexes.
The 30 vol. developer also maintains a low pH that has greater respect for the hair and scalp, and produces perfect lift on naturally pigmented hair, further enhancing tones.
Colouring of grey hair is also facilitated by the characteristics of Its Color when mixed with the 30 vol. developer:
the low ammonia content, high levels of colour pigments and high concentration of reflection enhancing agents
combine to give excellent coverage.
* (This does not include particularly fragile hair and processes such as toning, re-pigmentation and colouring of
very faded shafts)
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I T S C O L O R
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M A N U A L
Natural Series
This is a perfectly balanced series, designed to give a natural colour tending slightly towards
brown, on naturally pigmented hair with approximately 50% grey.
On hair with a high percentage of grey (over 70%) the tone tends to take on a slightly cooler
colour.
In these cases, to give a more natural colour, it is recommended that the Natural Series be mixed
with the Gold Series, in a ratio of 3 parts Natural Series + 1 part Gold Series (e.g.: 45 ml of 7 +
15 ml of 7.3).
All ten natural shades always guarantee perfect grey coverage.
Shades
1
Black
2
Brown
3
Dark Chestnut
4
Chestnut
5
Light Chestnut
6
Dark Blonde
7
Blonde
8
Light Blonde
9
Very Light Blonde
10
Platinum Blonde
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This series is particularly suited to produce intense golden highlights on pigmented hair.
Coverage is perfect, with particularly warm lights, even in the presence of high percentages of
grey.
The series is highly recommended for mixing with all the Fantasy Series, in the presence of grey,
to guarantee coverage and enhance the chosen highlights.
Shades 7.3, 8.3 and 9.3, which are particularly rich in yellow pigments, produce golden highlights without colour changes, even when used on particularly sensitive hair types.
To colour grey hair
from 0% to 40% - Tone-on-tone Series .3 alone
from 40% to 70% - 2 parts Tone-on-tone Series .3 + 1 part Natural Series
from 70% to 100% - 1 part Tone-on-tone Series .3 + 2 parts Natural Series
Gold Series (.3) used to colour hair with natural pigment.
To lift from 1 to 4 levels to give natural but not excessively warm golden tones.
For more intense golden tones, add approximately 5 ml of Yellow Corrector for every 60 ml of colour.
Series .3 can also be used on colour-treated hair to neutralise semi-cool tones (violet).
N.B.: with ash tones, this combination results in slightly warm beige highlights.
Mix with the developer best suited to obtain the result required.
N.B.: to produce warm (golden) blondes of level 9 10, or to tone bleached hair or sunstreaks:
use 9.3 mixed with Neutral, in the following proportions:
from: 1/2 part Neutral + 1/2 part 9.3
to: 4 parts Neutral + 1 part 9.3
The choice of amount to use will depend on the intensity required and the natural hair pigment
involved.
These mixtures can also be used to warm up or neutralise cool blondes.
It is recommended they be used with double the amount of 10 vol. O2 Developer.
Shades
4,3
Golden Chestnut
5,3
Light Golden Chestnut
6,3
Dark Golden Blonde
7,3
Golden Blonde
8,3
Light Golden Blonde
9,3
Very Light Golden Blonde
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Cuban Tobacco
Level 5 1/2, medium brown shade.
This is a special colour, extremely suitable for customers who are looking for natural, chestnuttype tones.
It is also suitable for hair with bleached highlights, because it can be used alone to tone even the
most sensitive hair types, without any risk of precipitation (dark or changed colour).
It gives excellent coverage in the presence of up to 50% grey. On high percentages of grey (from
50% to 100%), it is recommended that you mix it with equal amounts of a natural shade.
To colour grey hair
from 0% to 50% - gives perfect coverage
from 50% to 100% - 1/2 Cuban Tobacco + 1/2 Natural Series 6
N.B. It is recommended you use 20 vol. O2 Developer.
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Virginia Tobacco
Level 7, with a warm, slightly beige tone.
This is a particularly versatile colour that, thanks to its innovative chemical formula, produces
truly extraordinary results.
Ideal on level 3 and 4 bases to give beautiful lightening and toning effects.
It gives excellent coverage of grey hair.
On heavily sunstreaked hair it tones without the risk of darkening or unaesthetic colour changes.
Perfect when mixed with any other series.
See Gold, Ash, Natural, Copper Gold.
To colour grey hair
from 0% to 50% - gives perfect coverage
from 50% to 100% - it is recommended that you use 1/2 Virginia Tobacco + 1/2 7 - 7.3 - 7.01
During processing, the creme oxidises and takes on a warm grey colour; this effect, which is
caused by its unique chemical formula, is absolutely normal and should not cause any worries.
It is recommended you use 20 - 30 vol. O2 Developer.
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FASHION COLOURS
Chocolate Series
Level 3, dark chestnut colour.
Prune Series
Level 3, violet colour.
Chestnut Series
Level 5, slightly chestnut colour
Three fashion colours particularly suited to give intense colour, with warm chestnut or dark violet
reflexes, hinting at autumn shades.
Perfect grey coverage.
On 100% grey it is recommended that they be mixed with the Natural or Gold Series to further
enhance the reflexes.
To colour grey hair
from 0% to 50% - use the fashion colour required alone
from 50% to 100% - it is recommended that you use 1/2 the fashion colour required + 1/2
Natural or Gold Series of the same level.
Example: 1/2 Chestnut + 1/2 Natural 5 or Gold 5,3.
It is recommended you use 20 or 30 vol. O2 Developer.
To brighten up faded shafts and ends, prepare a mixture of the chosen colour with the addition
of equal amounts of the Neutral and 20 vol. developer.
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Neutral
This is a colourless product, containing no alkaline substances and comprising only the hydrating and cosmetic elements of Its Color plus a shine enhancing base.
When used alone, it gives great shine to natural base tones.
When mixed with the other Its Color shades, it can be used to decrease the intensity of the
colour (+ 1 level), should this be necessary.
Although not indicated in the presence of grey hair, it is perfect when used with sunstreaks,
bleached highlights, Balayage.
USING NEUTRAL
Alone
on natural hair, to increase shine
30 ml of Neutral + 5 ml of Corrector (preferably not the Blue Corrector) + 70 ml of 5/10 vol.
Developer. This formula adds shine and body, without modifying the hair structure. Processing
time: 15/20 minutes.
This mixture is also excellent for use on hair that has just been permed (use the 5 vol.
Developer only) , because it moisturises the hair and adds body and shine.
on colour-treated hair
During the colour treatment, if the shafts and ends are sensitised, with sunstreaks or balayage,
after applying the colour to the roots it is possible to add equal amounts of Neutral and 10 vol.
O2 Developer to the colour that remaining in the bowl.
Apply to shafts and ends during the last minutes of processing (see also the chapter on
Technical diagnosis).
This operation lightens the colour, giving excellent shine and toning of the whole head, without
the risk of the final colour darkening.
When mixed with other colours on a bleached base
To tone bleached hair and bleached highlights of levels 9 - 10:
it should normally be used mixed with the following colours: 9N, 9.3, 9.4, 9.01
Examples:
To tone golden honey coloured bleached hair:
4 parts Neutral + 1 part 9.3 + 1/2 part 9.4, with 10 or 20 vol. Developer, according to the result
required.
On extremely sensitive hair, it is recommended that you only use 10 vol. developer, in double
quantities
(e.g. 3 parts Neutral + 1 part 9.01 + double amounts of 10 vol. Developer.
On bleached bases, to give perfect toning in full safety
(e.g. 30 ml 9.01 + 30 ml Neutral + 120 ml 10 vol. Developer).
For special operations it can be mixed with the powder bleaches to make them more compact
(e.g. 30 ml Powder Bleach + 15 ml Neutral + 60 ml 10/20 or maximum 30 vol. Developer).
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Colour Correctors
These are special shades that, although they have the same characteristics as the colour and
use the same base, contain an extremely high concentration of the pigment that gives them their
name.
The Its Color range includes three correctors: Red, Yellow and Blue.
Red Corrector (level 6)
To further intensify intense red shades.
The base level of the Red Corrector corresponds to a level 6 (Dark Blonde).
The recommended amount to be added to the colour is as follows:
50 ml of Creme Colour + max. 5 ml of Red Corrector diluted in equal amounts of 20, 30 or 40
vol. Developer
To be used at levels 4 5 6 7 of the following shades: Red, Mahogany Red, Mahogany, Violet
Red.
Yellow Corrector (level 8)
To increase the intensity of golds and/or improve grey coverage.
Used with bleach, to give tone to the hair during the bleaching process.
Mixed with the colour (particularly with the Copper Reds) to increase luminosity.
It corresponds to a level 8.
To be used at levels 5 6 7 8 9 with the Natural, Gold, Copper, Red tones.
Blue Corrector (level 4)
Particularly suitable to neutralise warm reflexes in dark levels 2 3 4.
Incorrect use of the Blue Corrector may result in the colour being darker than required, because
it has a base level of 4.
It can be mixed with the Bleach to neutralise undesirable copper reflexes.
(1 measure of Bleach + 5 ml of Blue Corrector + between 1 and 2 measures of Developer).
To be used at levels 1 2 3 4 - 5 of the following shades: Natural, Natural Ash.
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EXTRA BLONDING
Extra Blonding Cream
This is a creme with a slight lightening action which, thanks to its treatment base (the same one used for Its
Color) is also suitable to be applied against the skin. A particularly versatile product, it has a high moisturising
and lipid action and a low ammonia content.
On completing the service, the hair is in excellent condition, even after a number of applications.
When mixed with the powder bleach, it is also an excellent product for decapage.
It can be used in various ways:
1 - Alone
Diluted with double the amount of 5 vol. O2 developer, to give slight lift (up to 1 level) on particularly dark
natural bases, without depositing any type of pigment, but simply changing the natural colour slightly.
Because it is so slow-acting, it avoids the appearance of warm reflexes.
2 - As a pre-lightener on dark bases (natural levels 2 3)
To prepare a lighter base, mix with double the amount of 10 vol. Developer.
Processing time: 20 - 25 minutes, to give approximately 2 levels of lift.
3 - For sunstreaks
This mixture can be used to give medium lift (3 or 4 levels), with an excellent golden tone: (10 ml Yellow
Corrector + 30 ml Extra Blonding)
Use with double the amount of 20 vol. O2 Developer and with the addition of the Yellow Corrector.
4 - For a light decapage (alone)
To eliminate unaesthetic shadows or excessive colour deposits, making the hair more even and surprisingly
shiny. Always mix with double the amount of 10 vol. O2 Developer, to give approximately 1 level of lift.
5 - For a heavier decapage, of more than 3 levels
it will be necessary to apply a first time using 10 vol. Developer and then a second time using 20 vol.
Developer.
N.B.: the choice of 10 vol. for the first application serves to prevent further oxidation of the artificial pigments,
which otherwise it would no longer be possible to lighten.
6 -For a medium action decapage (mixed with the powder bleaches)
When mixed with the X-Light White or No-Am White powder bleach and with 10/20 vol. Developer, the Extra
Blonding Cream increases the lightening effect amazingly, managing to protect the structure of even the most
delicate, treated hair, without decreasing speed and end lift.
The powder most frequently used for this type of service is No-Am White (yellow), as it is considered more
delicate, but on strong, tenacious hair with a darker base level it is possible to use X Light White (blue).
7-
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Prepare a sufficient amount of colour (Its Color) to cover grey hair. Simultaneously, prepare another bowl of
colour for the remaining part, plus 1/4 Extra Blonding Creme
diluted with the same volumes.
8 - Mixed with the High Lift Series
To increase lift by approximately 1 level (e.g. 45 ml High Lift + 15 ml Extra Blonding + 120 ml 40 vol.
Developer).
9 - As a scalp-level bleach (mixed with the powder bleaches)
To produce medium and strong lightening with complete respect for the hair and scalp. 60 ml Extra Blonding
+ 120 ml 20 vol. Developer + 1 or 2 level measures of Artgo No-Amm Powder Bleach. Recommended processing time between 45 and 60 minutes.
N.B.: the Yellow No-Amm White bleach is normally used, but on particularly strong, tenacious hair it is possible to use the Blue X Light White Bleach instead.
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BLEACHES
Ideal for every type of meches or sunstreaks, they ensure maximum hydration and respect for the hair. Simple to
mix and apply, they do not form lumps, do not drip and do not expand. Non volatile, they can be used under a
heat source to accelerate processing times and produce maximum lift.
Available in two types:
X LIGHT WHITE
Powder bleach suitable for all hair types, with the exception of fragile,
stressed hair
Contains Panthenol to guarantee elasticity and vitality, and has a pleasant mint fragrance.
NO-AM WHITE
Ammonia-free powder bleach, particularly suited for fragile, sensitive and
stressed hair
With a Milk Protein base and totally ammonia-free, it maintains, protects and moisturises the hair. Pleasant rose fragrance.
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SPECIFIC PRODUCTS
Qualify Protein Lotion Leave-In
1 - pH 3,5.
2 - Based on Keratinic substances very similar to the organic compounds naturally present in the hair
3 - An excellent porosity equaliser.
4 - Can be applied prior to a technical service, so that the service itself is carried out on hair with a more even
porosity (do not rinse).
5 - Can be applied before setting to give added shine and make the hair easier to comb.
Extract Vials
This is an intensive, rinse-off treatment that acts on the innermost part of the hair.
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GLOSSARY
Acid - having a pH level of less than 7.0. Any substance whose molecules release hydrogen ions into water. Acids always have
a sharp taste, they turn red litmus paper blue, and combine with bases to form salts.
Alkaline - having a pH level of more than 7.0. A category of compounds that react with acids to form salts, that turn blue litmus paper red, and react with fats to form soap.
Amino acids - a large group of organic compounds; hair is made up of the protein keratin, which comprises 21 amino acids.
Ammonia - a colourless gas with a pungent odour. When mixed with hydrogen peroxide, it activates the melanin oxidation
process, allowing it to lose colour. It opens the hair cuticle.
Amphoteric - molecule with positive (+) and negative (-) particles.
Corrective base - the opposite of a colour on the colour wheel. The two colours together (colour + opposite) neutralise each
other, creating a tone that is neither warm nor cool.
Warm - a colour that has the tonal qualities of warmth. Red, yellow and orange are warm tones.
Resistant hair - non-porous hair with an extremely compact cuticle, that delays moisture from entering the hair.
Ash - in hair colour, a colour or tone that is lacking in warm pigments. Green, blue and violet are generally the base tones in
ash colours.
Ceramide II - providing saturated and unsaturated fats. It is an intercellular lipid compound essential for the health of the hair
and bulb.
Keratin - a resistant, water-soluble protein, found in the composition of nails and hair.
Natural colour - the actual original colour of the hair, without chemical additives or the action of environmental agents.
Bleach, bleaching - the action of removing colour or stains, and the product used to remove colour from the hair. Any alkaline
compound that removes colour.
Density - this refers to characteristics such as: closed, filled, thick and compact.
Deposit - in the language of colour, the action of positioning pigments at an intermediate point in the hair shaft.
Energy - the basic active unit in the universe. The ability to carry out a job. Energy cannot be created or destroyed, but only
transformed from one form to another.
Enzyme - a protein catalyst produced by a living organism, that speeds up specific chemical reactions.
Fibrilla - a thin fibre or filament, present in the formation of cells.
Cool - in the language of colour, all colours that do not contain warm or golden tones. Generally refers to colours with blue or
violet-blue bases.
Level - in the language of colour, the measurement used to evaluate how light or dark hair colour is. Level 1, black, is the darkest, while level 10, blonde, is the lightest.
Level required - the final colour level required.
Melanin - the black, chestnut or reddish pigments present in the hair cortex, that create the natural colour.
Neutralise - to counterbalance an action or the effect of a colour.
Oxidise - to transfer oxygen to another substance.
pH - the chemical abbreviation indicating potential hydrogen. The percentage acid or alkaline present in a solution.
Pigmentation - deposit of pigment onto the hair.
Porosity - the hairs ability to absorb liquid.
Pre-lighten - removal of the natural or artificial colour in the hair before applying a different shade or level of colour.
Primary - fundamental or basic.
Saturation - in this manual, the level of colour available in a colouring product.
Lighten - the action of removing tone or colour from the hair using a bleaching agent.
Lift - the lightening or bleaching action typical of a chemical product.
Strand test - a test carried out before performing a colour treatment to check the processing time, colour results and ability of
the hair to accept the chemical treatment.
Tone - the warmer or cooler level of a colour.
Volume - measurement indicating the level of oxygen found within a hydrogen peroxide solution.
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