Monday Morning Dress Pattern

For 18 American Girl Dolls

SUPPLIES NEEDED:
1/2 yard fabric
1/3 yard lining fabric
scraps for contrast
scraps for bow
one 7-9 invisible zipper
Matching thread
All her friends teased her, but she couldnt shake
it: Monday was her favorite day of the week. It
stood for so many new beginnings, a fresh
perspective, another chance to try it again. And
when she needed an extra boost of confidence, she
knew just which frock to reach for...
Our Monday Morning dress is a study in classic
elegance, with a twist. Its familiar, A-line
silhouette and pleated skirt are standbys in
traditional dress design. But the asymmetrical
detailing (like the contrasting shoulder panel and
the oversized Melody Valerie bow) keeps it freshwell-known yet new, just like so many Mondays.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

This dress can be made from a variety of fabrics.

We suggest using linen, silk noil, lightweight
raw silk, rayon or cotton sateen with a rayon, silk
or poly blend lining in a color that compliments
the fashion fabric.
1.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
Cut out or trace the pattern pieces provided. Identify the pieces needed for the main fabric, contrast, bow
and lining. *Note: the lining pieces need to be flipped over in order to match their fabric counterpart.
The fabric should be cut single layer due to the assymetrical design. The Skirt and Skirt Lining do not have
pattern pieces. They should be cut in rectangles following the measurements given. The pleating guide
has two strips which need to be taped together. This paper pattern is to be placed on fabric skirt piece for
marking pleat placement. The armscye binding does not have a pattern piece. The 1 x 6 bias strips can
be cut from fashion fabric or lining. Following the grainlines indicated on pattern, place pieces on fabric
and pin. Cut out all of the pieces.
MAIN FABRIC

CONTRAST FABRIC

BOW FABRIC

LINING

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

2.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
1.

BODICE
1. With RIGHT sides together, pin contrast to
Bodice Front, matching notches. Straight stitch
using 1/4 seam allowances.
Press seam open, clipping bodice front seam
allowance to stitching so seam allowances lie flat.

2.
2. With RIGHT sides together, pin Lower Bodice
Back to contrast, matching notches. Straight
stitch.
Stitch Left Back to Front at shoulder. Press
seam open.

3.
3. With RIGHT sides together, pin Front to
Back at side seam. Stitch.
Clip as needed. Press seam open.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

3.

4.
4. REPEAT steps 1-3 to construct lining, being
sure to flip all pieces over so you end up with
a mirror image of the bodice.

5.
5. With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to
bodice along neck edge. Straight stitch using
1/4 seam allowance.

6.
6. Clip neck edge at corners and curves,
trimming out excess bulk at point where contrast
meets bodice front.
NOTE: The seam will be stronger if you offset
your clipping on the two layers.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

4.

7.
7. With RIGHT side up, spread the bodice flat,
with seam allowances under the lining side.
UNDERSTITCH along neck edge on lining side,
pulling the seam open with your fingers as you
go.
Fold lining to inside and press neck edge.

*Completed understitching is pictured left.

Sleeve and Armscye Bindings

8.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

8. Press sleeve in half, WRONG sides together,

matching notches on raw edges.

5.

9.
9. Pin-baste lining to bodice around right
armscye.
With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve into right
armscye, being sure bottom edge of sleeve lines
up with edges of contrast fabric.
Stitch, including lining in seam.

Bindings
10.

10. With WRONG sides together, fold and press

bias strip in half lengthwise. Unfold binding
and stitch short ends together, forming a loop.
Press seam open. Repress binding in half,
enclosing seam allowances.

11.

11. Working from inside of garment, pin binding

to inside of right (sleeved) armscye. The
bindings folded edge should be facing toward
the neckline, with the raw edges aligned with
the raw edges of the sleeve.
Straight stitch using a short (2.0) stitch length.
Sew slowly and readjust as needed to avoid
puckers. Check to be sure all layers are sewn
correctly.
Trim seam allowance to 1/8. Clip into remaining
seam allowance as needed to ensure a smooth
turn.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

6.

12.
12. Pin remaining binding to OUTSIDE of
remaining armscye, catching lining and aligning
raw edges of bodice, lining and binding. Stitch
and clip as above.

13.
13. Turn bindings over raw edges to inside of
bodice; pin bodice to lining. Using a whip stitch,
hand sew binding in place. (Stitches should not
show on right side.)

*Inside view of bodice

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

7.

*Outside view of bodice

SKIRT
14.

14. With RIGHT sides together, sew skirt to

skirt lining along long lower edge. Press seam
to set, then press seam allowances open.

15.
15. With WRONG sides together, fold skirt in
half lengthwise, matching upper raw edges.
*About 1 of the outer skirt fabric should fold up
to the lining side along the lower edge.
Baste upper edge; press folded crease in hem
edge.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

8.

16.

16. Using Pleat Strip, pin-mark foldlines and

placement lines. Work outward from Center
Front, one side at a time, to ensure you have
about 1 of seam allowance left on each end
of skirt.
In photo, white pins mark the foldlines and green
pins mark the placement lines. A gold pin is at
Center Front.

17.
17. Working from the RIGHT side of skirt, fold
skirt along short edge, at all foldlines (white pins).
Press each crease.
*DO NOT press crease in Center Front!!

*Finished creases are pictured left.

*Close-up of pressed creases.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

9.

18.
18. Working from one end of the skirt, bring
each foldline crease to its nearest placement
line (green pin), forming box pleats. Press crease
from WRONG side, being careful not to unpress
anything.

19.
19. Continue to form box pleats until you reach
other end.

*Fully pleated skirt is pictured left.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

10.

20.
20. Pin pleats in place, then secure with machine
basting or hand-cross stitches. *(Hand cross
stitches will help keep the folds from sliding apart
during stitching, which can result in gap-toothed
box pleats.)

*Close-up view of hand cross stitches.

21.
21. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to
bodice, matching center fronts and pleat to
side seam, keeping lining free.
*NOTE: If you do not wish to hand-sew the lining
in place, include lining in this seam. Zig zag or
overlock raw edge to finish seam. Baste lining
to bodice along center back seam allowance.
Zig zag or overlock the raw edges together and
continue with the zipper.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

11.

*Completed waist seam is shown left.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER
22.
22. Lay zipper WRONG side up, with the zipper
open. Press zipper coils flat with a medium
iron. This will make the zipper easier to sew.
*NOTE: a contrasting zipper is used for viewing
ease; for a truly invisible experience, choose a
zipper with a tape that matches your fashion
fabric.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

12.

23.
23. Place garment RIGHT side up. Place
zipper face down on center back seam allowance.
The zipper coils will be facing toward garment.
Pin zipper down center back, stopping 2 from
bottom edge.

24.
24. Using a zipper foot, straight stitch down
seam close to coils. Sew slowly to prevent
fabric from puckering. Stop when you reach
end point and backstitch.
*NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot on your
machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper.
Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left
groove of the foot.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

13.

25.

25. Close zipper and pin mark the waistline

and end stitching point.
Open up zipper and pin zipper to garment,
matching important pin marks.
Make sure RIGHT side of fabric is facing up and
WRONG side of zipper is facing up.
(Zipper coil should be facing toward garment)

26.
26. Baste. Close zipper and check match.
Adjust as needed. Sew zipper permanently
as you did the other side, again stopping 2
from bottom edge.
NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot, the
zipper coil is in the RIGHT grove of the foot.
Pull the zipper closed and lightly press before
continuing.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

14.

27.
27. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower
opening together, keeping zipper tail free. Sew
up opening at 1 seam allowance, stopping just
past zipper stitching.
NOTE: This seam may veer a little (1/8) away
from zipper stitching towards garment.

28.

28. Hand sew a thread bar tack across zipper

coils 1/2 past zipper stitching.
Cut off excess zipper tape and finish with a
touch of seam sealant.

29.
29. Cut off excess tape at top of zipper and
finish with a touch of seam sealant. Be sure
not to cut off the top zipper stop.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

15.

30.
30. Zig zag or overlock raw skirt edges; press
under 1/4 and topstitch to finish.

31.
31. Turn bottom edges under, forming points,
and hand-whip into place.

32.
32. Pin lining to bodice, starting at strategic
intervals (top of zipper, matching seams at
waistline), folding under seam allowance as
you go.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

16.

33.
33. Hand whip-stitch lining to zipper tape and
along waistline.

34.
34. With RIGHT sides together, pin Bow Body
in half lengthwise. Straight stitch using 1/4
seam allownace.
Press seam open and flip right side out. Press
so that seam is in center of one side.

35.
35. Overlap short ends of strip 1/4 and stitch
together to form loop.
Center seam on the back of loop and lightly
press flat.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

17.

36.
36. With RIGHT sides together, fold Bow Tails
in half lengthwise. Pin.

Stitch, leaving about 1 open in the center.

Clip, turn right side out, and press.

37.

37. Stack Bow Body on top of Bow Tails, slightly

off-setting Bow Body to the left. Sew running
stitch as pictured, and pull tight.
Wrap several times with thread to secure before
tying off.

38.

38. Press under both long raw edges of Bow

Wrap 3/8.

39. Stitch one end to back of bow, then wrap

around bow body.

40.

41.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

40. Clip off excess, turn under raw edge and

hand-whip securely in place.

41. Tack Bow Tails into position as shown, to

ensure a graceful fall.

18.

42.
42. Hand tack Bow to dress, centering over
Side Front pleat.

Finished Monday Morning dress!

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

19

SUMMARY OF INSTRUCTIONS
BODICE
1. With RIGHT sides together, pin contrast to Bodice Front, matching notches. Straight stitch using
1/4 seam allowances.
Press seam open, clipping bodice front seam allowance to stitching so seam allowances lie flat.
2. With RIGHT sides together, pin Lower Bodice Back to contrast, matching notches. Straight stitch.
Stitch Left Back to Front at shoulder. Press seam open.
3. With RIGHT sides together, pin Front to Back at side seam. Stitch. Clip as needed. Press seam
open.
4. REPEAT steps 1-3 to construct lining, being sure to flip all pieces over so you end up with a mirror
image of the bodice.
5. With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to bodice along neck edge. Straight stitch using 1/4 seam
allowance.
6. Clip neck edge at corners and curves, trimming out excess bulk at point where contrast meets
bodice front.
NOTE: The seam will be stronger if you offset your clipping on the two layers.
7. With RIGHT side up, spread the bodice flat, with seam allowances under the lining side.
UNDERSTITCH along neck edge on lining side, pulling the seam open with your fingers as you go.
Fold lining to inside and press neck edge.

Sleeve
8. Press sleeve in half, WRONG sides together, matching notches on raw edges.
9. Pin-baste lining to bodice around right armscye.
With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve into right armscye, being sure bottom edge of sleeve lines up
with edges of contrast fabric. Stitch, including lining in seam.

Armscye Bindings
10. With WRONG sides together, fold and press bias strip in half lengthwise. Unfold binding and stitch
short ends together, forming a loop.
Press seam open. Repress binding in half, enclosing seam allowances.
11. Working from inside of garment, pin binding to inside of right (sleeved) armscye. The bindings
folded edge should be facing toward the neckline, with the raw edges aligned with the raw edges of the
sleeve. Straight stitch using a short (2.0) stitch length. Sew slowly and readjust as needed to avoid
puckers. Check to be sure all layers are sewn correctly.
Trim seam allowance to 1/8. Clip into remaining seam allowance as needed to ensure a smooth turn.
12. Pin remaining binding to OUTSIDE of remaining armscye, catching lining and aligning raw edges
of bodice, lining and binding. Stitch and clip as above.
13. Turn bindings over raw edges to inside of bodice; pin bodice to lining. Using a whip stitch, hand
sew binding in place. (Stitches should not show on right side.)
Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

20.

SKIRT
14. With RIGHT sides together, sew skirt to skirt lining along long lower edge. Press seam to set, then
press seam allowances open.
15. With WRONG sides together, fold skirt in half lengthwise, matching upper raw edges.
*About 1 of the outer skirt fabric should fold up to the lining side alo0ng the lower edge.
Baste upper edge; press folded crease in hem edge.
16. Using Pleat Strip, pin-mark foldlines and placement lines. Work outward from Center Front, one
side at a time, to ensure you have about 1 of seam allowance left on each end of skirt.
TIP: Use different colored pin heads to mark foldlines from placement lines.
17. Working from the RIGHT side of skirt, fold skirt along short edge, at all foldlines (white pins).
Press each crease. *DO NOT press crease in Center Front!!
18. Working from one end of the skirt, bring each foldline crease to its nearest placement line, forming
box pleats. Press crease from WRONG side, being careful not to unpress anything.
19. Continue to form box pleats until you reach other end.
20. Pin pleats in place, then secure with machine basting or hand-cross stitches. *(Hand cross stitches
will help keep the folds from sliding apart during stitching, which can result in gap-toothed box pleats.)
21. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to bodice, matching center fronts and pleat to side seam,
keeping lining free.
*NOTE: If you do not wish to hand-sew the lining in place, include lining in this seam. Zig zag or overlock
raw edge to finish seam. Baste lining to bodice along center back seam allowance. Zig zag or overlock
the raw edges together and continue with the zipper.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER
22. Lay zipper WRONG side up, with the zipper open. Press zipper coils flat with a medium iron. This
will make the zipper easier to sew.
*NOTE: a contrasting zipper is used for viewing ease; for a truly invisible experience, choose a zipper
with a tape that matches your fashion fabric.
23. Place garment RIGHT side up. Place zipper face down on center back seam allowance. The zipper
coils will be facing toward garment. Pin zipper down center back, stopping 2 from bottom edge.
24. Using a zipper foot, straight stitch down seam close to coils. Sew slowly to prevent fabric from
puckering. Stop when you reach end point and backstitch.
*NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot on your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make
sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot.
25. Close zipper and pin mark the waistline and end stitching point. Open up zipper and pin zipper to
garment, matching important pin marks. Make sure RIGHT side of fabric is facing up and WRONG side
of zipper is facing up. (Zipper coil should be facing toward garment)
26. Baste. Close zipper and check match. Adjust as needed. Sew zipper permanently as you did the
other side, again stopping 2 from bottom edge.
NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot, the zipper coil is in the RIGHT grove of the foot.
Pull the zipper closed and lightly press before continuing.
27. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower opening together, keeping zipper tail free. Sew up opening at
1 seam allowance, stopping just past zipper stitching.
NOTE: This seam may veer a little (1/8) away from zipper stitching towards garment.
Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

21.

28. Hand sew a thread bar tack across zipper coils 1/2 past zipper stitching. Cut off excess zipper tape
and finish with a touch of seam sealant.
29. Cut off excess tape at top of zipper and finish with a touch of seam sealant. Be sure not to cut off
the top zipper stop.
30. Zig zag or overlock raw skirt edges; press under 1/4 and topstitch to finish.
31. Turn bottom edges under, forming points, and hand-whip into place.
32. Pin lining to bodice, starting at strategic intervals (top of zipper, matching seams at waistline), folding
under seam allowance as you go.
33. Hand whip-stitch lining to zipper tape and along waistline.
34. With RIGHT sides together, pin Bow Body in half lengthwise. Straight stitch using 1/4 seam
allownace. Press seam open and flip right side out. Press so that seam is in center of one side.
35. Overlap short ends of strip 1/4 and stitch together to form loop. Center seam on the back of loop
and lightly press flat.
36. With RIGHT sides together, fold Bow Tails in half lengthwise. Pin. Stitch, leaving about 1 open in
the center. Clip, turn right side out, and press.
37. Stack Bow Body on top of Bow Tails, slightly off-setting Bow Body to the left. Sew running stitch
as pictured, and pull tight. Wrap several times with thread to secure before tying off.
38. Press under both long raw edges of Bow Wrap 3/8.
39. Stitch one end to back of bow, then wrap around bow body.
40. Clip off excess, turn under raw edge and hand-whip securely in place.
41. Tack Bow Tails into position as shown, to ensure a graceful fall.
42. Hand tack Bow to dress, centering over Side Front pleat.

Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

1 INCH

1 INCH

on

er B

odi

nda

ce

yM

orn

(Co

ing

ntra

st)

Dre

ss

or
ni
gh
ng
CU Co t S
Dr
es
T ntr lee
1
v
a
s
of st e
Fa
br
ic
Ri

Mo

Upp

da

CUT 1 of Fabric
CUT 1 of Lining
(flip pattern)

Monday Morning Dress

Lower Bodice Front

CUT 1 of Fabric

CUT 1 of Lining
(flip pattern)

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale
manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email
support@libertyjanepatterns.com and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document.
Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

1 INCH

1 INCH

center back

Monday Morning Dress

CUT 1 of Fabric
CUT 1 of Lining
(flip pattern)

1/2 seam allowance

Left Bodice Back

SKIRT
CUT 1 Fashion Fabric:
34 x 7 1/2
CUT 1 Lining:
34 x 5 1/2
*includes 1/2 seam allowance
at Center Back

ARMSCYCE BINDING

center back

1/2 seam allowance

CUT 2 Fabric or Lining

1 x 6 on bias

Monday Morning Dress

Lower RightBodice Back
CUT 1 of Fabric
CUT 1 of Lining
(flip pattern)

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale
manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email
support@libertyjanepatterns.com and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document.
Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

1 INCH

1 INCH

Bow Wrap
CUT 1

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale
manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email
support@libertyjanepatterns.com and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document.
Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

CUT 1 of Fabric

Bow Tails

Monday Morning Dress

CUT 1 of Fabric

Bow Body

Monday Morning Dress

3/8 seam allowance

CF

FOLD

tape to section 1

PLEATING STRIP
SECTION 2

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale
manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email
support@libertyjanepatterns.com and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document.
Copyright 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

side back pleat

side front pleat

PLEATING STRIP
SECTION 1

Placement Lines

Foldlines

Pleating Guide

Monday Morning Dress

CB

side seam

1 INCH

1 INCH
tape to section 2

A Note About File Sharing

Just like you buy a song from iTunes for your personal use, youve
purchased 1 copy of this digital product from Melody Valerie Couture for
your personal use. You do not have our permission to share it, resell it, or
give it to someone else in any form. Selling this pdf file, or its contents, or
giving it to someone else, is wrong and violates our copyright.
Copyright Melody Valerie Couture
All rights reserved