Q.1: Which are the main fabric formation systems? Describe the features of their fabric structures.?

METHODS OF FABRIC FORMING

The most commonly used fabric forming methods are weaving, braiding, knitting, felting, tufting and nonwoven
manufacturing. However, major method of fabric construction is weaving.
Weaving
Weaving is the interlacing of warp and filling yarns perpendicular to each other. There are practically an endless number of
ways of interlacing warp and filling yarns. Each different way results a different fabric structure.
Approximately 70% of the fabrics made in the world are woven fabrics. Figure 2 shows the diagram of woven fabrics.
Braiding
Braiding is probably the simplest way of fabric formation. A braided fabric is formed by diagonal interlacing of yarns. Although
there are two sets of yarns involved in the process, these are not termed as warps and fillings as in the case of woven fabrics.
Each set of yarns moves in an opposite direction. Braiding does not require shedding, filling insertion, and beat up. Figure 3
shows the diagram of braded
fabrics.

Knitting
Knitting refers to interloping of one yarn system into vertical columns and horizontal rows of loops called wales and courses,
respectively. There are two main types of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting.
Tufting
Tufting is the process of manufacturing some categories of carpets and similar structures. In this process surface yarn system
of loops is 'sewn' or 'stitched' through a primary backing fabric, usually a woven or nonwoven fabric. The loops are arranged in
vertical columns (rows) and horizontal lines (stitches). Loops can be in the form of cut or uncut loops (piles) or a combination
of thereof. The fabric is usually back-coated in a later process to secure tufted loops. Orientation of tuffed loops is shown in
Figure 4.
Bonding(non-woven)
Bonding is the method of manufacturing nonwovens using textile, paper, extrusion, or combination of these technologies, to
form and bond polymers, fibers, filaments, yarns or combination sheets into a flexible, porous structure. In fact, some
nonwoven products are subjected to both textile and paper industry. Figure 5 shows the bonding of nonwoven fabric.

Describe the features of their fabric structures.?

Textile Fabric
Textile fabric is that fabric which can be produced directly from webs or fibres by bonding, fusing or interlocking for making
no-woven fabrics and felt also. But manufacturing of fabric from yarn is the most common method for a wide range of
versatile use.

What is the Classification of fabric

Here I am going to classified fabric according to the manufacturing process of fabric from yarn. Basically there are the
main mechanical methods to manufacture fabric from yarn. They are
1. Interweaving
2. Interloping
3. Intertwining and twisting

Interweaving
Interweaving is process in which there is intersection or interlace of two sets of straight threads. Here one set of yarn is
called warp yarn which lay in lengthwise of fabric and another set of yarn is called weft yarn which laid as picks or filling
in crosswise of fabric.

It is the most common method of producing fabric. This process has been used from the ancient period to produce fabric.
In interweaving process we can get straight-edge fabric continuous length contained.

Interweaving

Interloping
Interloping consists of forming yarn into loops, each of which is typically only released after a succeeding loop has been
formed. There has been intermeshed with the loop so that a secure ground loop structure is achieved. The loops are also
held together by the yarn passing from one to the next. Knitting is the most common method of interloping. Knitting is the
second mostly used of producing fabric from yarn.

Interloping

Intertwining and twisting (Braided Fabric)

There are various types of techniques of intertwining and twisting such as braiding, knotting etc. In intertwining the yarn
or threads are caused to intertwine in right angle or in any other angles. These techniques tend to produce special
construction whose uses are limited for special using purpose.

Non-woven Fabric
Another method is to manipulate directly fibre into textile fabrics is so called non-woven process. It is a new branch of
textile industry. But this branch is expanding in great number for its high production rates with lower cost.
So, here it is clear that including new branch non-woven process there are four types of fabrics. They are:
1. Woven Fabric (by interweaving method)
2. Knitted fabric (by interloping method)
3. Braided fabric (by intertwining/twisting method)
4. Non woven fabric (by non woven process)

What is Woven Fabric Structure? /Classification of Woven Fabric on

Woven Structure.

Fundamental Factors of Woven Cloth Structure

Classification of weave or fabric design / Fabric Weave.

What is woven Fabric Features of Woven Fabric

Basically, woven is produced by weaving process in loom. In manufacturing Structure of Woven fabric, it is made by
interlacement of Warp and Weft yarn. Warp yarn is used in lengthwise and weft yarn in used in width-wise.

There are three structural design of woven fabric. These are

1. Plain weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Stain Weave

Woven fabric construction

Basic Construction of Woven fabric is used as = (Ends per inch X Picks per inch)/ (Warp count X Weft Count) X Width.
As per example,
If, EPI (Ends per inch) = 128
PPI (Picks per inch) =64
Warp Count=30
Weft Count=20
Fabric width=60
So fabric construction will be = (128X60)/ (30X20) X 60

Features of Woven fabric

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It is produced in Weaving
Both Warp and Weft yarn is used in Woven fabric manufacturing
It is more durable than knit and non-woven fabric
Fabric width generally 59/60/61 inch
Generally, no stretch-ability in woven fabric
Generally woven fabric in made by plain, twill or stain weave.
usually smooth
Iron in medium temperature

Different types of woven fabrics

Twill Fabric
Denim
Gabardine
Georgette
Oxford Fabric
Velvet
Khadi
Dobby Fabric
Solid Fabric
Grey fabric
Muslin
Organdy
Poplin
Voile
Bedford Cord
Chiffon
Canvas
Calico
Cambric
Drill
Jamdani
Gabardine
Linen
Ninon
Flannel
Y/D Fabric
S/D Fabric
T/C Fabric
Tappet
Printed Fabric
Brushed fabric
Pocketing Fabric
Wild silk
Warp Printing
Waxed Cotton

Classification of Woven Fabric Based on Structure

Woven fabric structure has great influence on the woven fabric production. The types of fabric structure by which fabric will
be produced. There are various types of woven fabric. Sometimes, customers will give specification by sending sample which
should be analyzed for deciding the structure. Then, set up loom parameters for bulk production.
Woven fabric: The followings determine the structure of woven fabric:
1.Interlacing warp and weft which are at the right angle to each other in the plane of the fabric produce woven fabric.
2.The direction of the length of the fabric and the weft in that of its width orient the warp.
3.Individual warp and weft yarns are called as ends and picks respectively.
4.A coherent structure is produced by interlacing the ends and picks with other.
5.The repeating pattern of interlacing is called the weave.
Classification of woven fabric: Woven fabric is classified into simple structure and compound structure based on the
structure.
Features of simple structure:
1.The ends and picks are interlaced with one another at right angle.
2.Threads of each group are respectively parallel to each other.
3.Only one series of ends and picks are used in the construction.
4.Both the aspect of utility or performance in a fabric and the aspects of aesthetic apparel rely on all the constituent
threads.
Features of compound structure:
1.More than one series of ends and picks are used in the structure.
2.The body of the fabric such as ground yarns determine some of the threads. Some may be employed entirely for
ornamental purposes such as figuring and face yarns.
3.Some threads may be not found in the parallel formation one to another in either plane and indeed there are many pile
surface construction in which some threads may project out at right angles to the general plane of the fabric, i.e. pile or
towel.
Woven fabric structure is more complex than knitted fabric structure. The manufacturers should be careful about the
structure and loom setting when producing desired woven fabric.

What is non woven fabric?

Nonwoven fabrics are flexible, porous products consisting of one or more fibre layers. In nonwoven fabric the fibres may
either preferentially oriented in one direction or may be deposited in a random manner. They are bonded by chemical,
thermal or mechanical processes into textile products.
Nonwoven are mainly planar structures. This is a young branch of the textile industry relatively other branches. It has
expanded enormously after the Second World War because of high production rate with lower manufacturing cost.

History of non-woven fabric

In 1930 a few textile companies began experimenting with bonded materials as a way of utilizing cotton waste, which next
resulting non-woven fabric manufacturing. The first commercial
production of non woven fabrics began in 1942 in the United States. Actually it was the result of effort of manufacturing of
fabric directly from fibres. The market of non woven products has experienced tremendous growth and has potential for
more.

Classification of non-woven fabrics

Nonwovens may be classified as either disposal or durable goods.

Disposable/non durable
Disposable or nondurable non wovens include such one-time use products as diapers, medical dressings, household
wipes, and disposable protective clothing.

Durable Goods
Durable goods are used for apparel interfacing, automobile headliners, road underlayments, and carpets.

Manufacturing Process of nonwoven Fabric

The basic sequence of steps in manufacturing contemporary nonwoven fabrics is as follows: extremely
Preparation of the fibre

Manufacturing Process

Raw Materials of nonwoven fabric

Polyester is the most frequently used fibre in the United States. Olefin and nulon are used for their strength, and
cotton and rayon are used for absorbency. Some acrylic, acetate, and vinyon are also being used.
Fibres are selected on the basis of their properties and expected performance in end uses. New first quality fibres are
preferred over reused or reprocessed fibres.
Both staple and filament fibres are used. It is possible to blend different lengths as well as fibres of different generic
groups.
The selection of fibres depends on the product proposed, the care typically given it, and the expected or desired
durability.

KNITTING TECHNOLOGY/DEFINATION AND TYPES OF KNITTED FABRICS PRODUCED IN

KNITTING MILLS

What is Knitting?
Is the formation of a fabric by the interlacing of one or more sets of yarns. Knitting is a fabrication
process in which needles are used to form a series of interlocking one or more yarns or fabric set of
yarns.
Describe the advantages of knits compared to woven fabrics: Production
1.Production- Machines can be changed quickly to meet fashion needs. Process is less expensive but
requires more expensive yarns. It's a faster process regardless of fabric width
2. Design: Design- Series of interconnected loops made with one or more sets of yarns. Filling knits can
be raveled from top to bottom depending on the knit type; warp knits cannot be raveled.
3. Durability: Durability- Less stable in use and care. Mobile elastic fabric adapts easily to body
movement. Good recovery from wrinkles. Air permeable with open spaces between yarns which lets
winds and moisture penetrate. It's bulky.
4. Skew Skew (Off- grain)- Maybe bowed or skewed
5. : shrinkage :Shrinkage- Knit fabrics have a higher shrinkage unless heat-set.
6. Run :Run- Occurs when the stitches in wale collapse or pull out. A run occurs in a stepwise fashion
when one stitch after another in a wale collapse due to stress on the loop when a yarn is cut.

Compare the comfort and appearance retention of knit and woven fabrics.
Knits are more bulky, air permeable, and has good recovery from wrinkles. it adapts easily to body
movement, mobility, and is an elastic fabric.

Compare the cover knit and woven fabrics?

Knits are porous and less opaque while woven is more stable in use and care and lower shrinkage.
Compare the fabric stability of knit and woven fabrics?
Knit is less stable in use and care and has higher shrinkage unless heat-set.
Compare the structure and characteristics of knit and woven fabrics?
Series of interconnected loops made with one or more sets of yarns. filling knits can be raveled from top
to bottom depending on knit type; warp knits can't be raveled. May snag and run. May be bowed and
skewed. Usually heavier because more yarn is used.
What is filling or weft knitting?
Is a process in which one yarn or yarn set is carried back and forth (or around) and under needles from a
fabric.
What are wales and courses?
Wales are vertical columns of stitches in the knit fabric. Courses are the horizontal rows in the knit fabric.
In machine knitting, each wale is formed by a single needle.
What is gaiting?
The needle arrangement in the double- knitting machine
What is cut or gauge?
Indicates the fineness of the stitch; it's the number of needles in a specific distance on the needle bar
and is often expressed as needles per inch (npi). Cut may be used in the textile complex to describe knit
fabrics.
What are 2 types of machines used to produce filling knit?
Flatbed machine in which the yarn is carried back and forth. Circular machines in which the yarn is
carried in spiral like threads in a screw.
Four filling knit stitches: Knit
Knit- is the basic stitch used to produce the majority of filling-knit fabrics. these fabrics have a greater
crosswise and lengthwise elongation the sides of the stitches appear on the face of the jersey.

Tuck
Tuck- is used to create a fancy knit, are with a pattern in the fabric. Tuck stitches create bubbles or
puckers for visual interest. They may be in patterns or added randomly to create texture.
Float/or Miss
Float/or Miss- used to create a fancy knit with a pattern in the fabric. The float stitch is used when yarns
of different colors knit in to create the design.
Purl
Purl or Reverse: Forms a fabric that locks on both sides like a technical back of a basic knit fabric. It's
reversible fabrics that are slow and expensive to knit because they require special machines.
Single Filling Knits
Single/Plain Jersey, jacquard jersey, pile jersey, and weft-insertion jersey.
Double filling Knits
Rib knit, interlock (interlock and jacquard double knit), and purl knit.
Properties of single filling knits
tend to curl at the edges, run readily especially if made of filament yarns, and less staple than double
knits.
What is single or plain jersey?
Is the simplest of the filling-knit structures.
What is jacquard jersey?
The pattern develops because of different stitch types yarn texture or color or a combination of variations
in stitch type and yarn.
What is intarsia?
is a more complicated patterned single knit fabric in which the yarn is used to create a pattern in the
fabric in that area only
How do you distinguish between true and mock intarsia?
True intarsia designs have a clear pattern on both the face and back with no pattern shadows which is a
characteristic of jacquard designs. mock intarsia designs are made by miss and float knitting which
results in a heavier weight fabric with floating yarns on the reverse side or shadow pattern.
Pile jersey has what type of pile on the face of the fabric?
cut and uncut pile.
what is knitted jersey cloth?
Is a loop pile fancy fabric used for beachwear, robes, and infant towels/or wash cloths.
What is velour?
Is a cut pile fancy fashion fabric used in men's and women's wear and in robes.
What is sliver knit?
Are made on a special weft-knit circular sliver knitting machine.
How do you distinguish between woven pile and pile jersey?
Knit terrycloth has interlooping on its fabric back and knit terrycloth stretches in all directions and the
woven doesn't stretch very much. The knit structure of the loops are shaped like a V.
What is the difference between Weft insertion knit and pile knit?
Another yarn is laid in a course as it's being knit.
List the 2 fabrics that are examples of weft insertion knit.
French terry which no additional finishing is needed.
Fleece is the technical back that is napped French terry.

What is the difference between Weft insertion and Pile Knit?

Weft insertion is an extra yarn weave concept. In a pile knit you have a ground weave and then an extra
yarn is used to create a loop.
What is full fashioning?
A process that is used to shape the parts like armholes, neckline curves, and collar points and finished
edges. Full fashioned garments are always on grain, look better to the discerning eye. rarely distort
during washing due to twisted seams and are often better quality seams.
Describe the characteristics of double knitting?
Can be made with any combination of four stitches: knit, tuck, float, or purl. Has a two way stretch and
relatively high dimensional stability. They don't run or curl at the edges and are less apt to stretch cut
than single knits.
What is double knit jersey?
It looks the same on both sides.
What is rib structure?
Both the face and back of fabric reveal wales or length wise ridges.
What are the properties of interlock fabrics?
Interlock is the simplest double knit fabric produced using interlock gaiting. Both sides of the fabric look
alike. Two 1 by 1 rib structures are intermeshed, and they resemble the face of a single jersey.
What are the characteristics of Purl Knit fabrics?
Usually are made on machines with two needle beds and double latch needles with purl gaiting.
What is Purl Structure?
both face and back of fabric reveal purl stitches.
Describe how you would differentiate a double knit jersey from an interlock fabric.
Interlock is identical on both sides; double knit fabric is double faced. All jersey is a single filling knit and
double filling knit face and back are a like.
What are the 3 types of Warp knits?
Tricot, Warp insertion, and Raschel
What is warp knitting?
Is unique because it developed as a machine technique without ever having been a hand technique.
What are the characteristics of warp knit fabrics?
Fastest way of making yarns into fabrics, produces a vertical loom structure, diagramming using a point
paper rotation , and it's an expensive process.
Raschel Characteristics.
Rachel have rows of chain like loops called pillars and are laid in yarns in various lapping configurations.
These can be identified by raveling the laid-in yarn and noting that.
What are the characteristics of insertion warp knit?
Fabric characteristics can be engineered for desire properties provide directional stability. Based
structure is warp knit and is a visual enhancement of the fabric.