1590 Drill
1590 Drill
Resistor
s
Capacitor
s
Transistors
R1
100k
C1
R2
R3
10k
100k
C2 4u7
C3 100n
R4
R5
100k
470R
C4
C5
R6
R7
8k2
1M5
C6 47uF
C7 100uF
CLR
4k7
C8
10n
Q1-Q3 Ge PNP
Diodes
D1,D2 1N4001
Integrated Circuits
4u7
10n
IC1
10uF
TC1044SCPA
Pots
Level
A100
K
Attack B1K
C9
10uF
Notes:
The black Magic MKii is a modern take on the classic sola sound tone bender mkii
fuzz. An onboard voltage inverter has been added in front of the circuit to allow the
user the option to power it along with their other pedals using a one-spot (tm) style
power supply. The power section has also been modified to filter out unwanted
noise and to provide reverse polarity protection.
This PCB was designed for right angle 9mm alpha potentiometers and a 1590a
enclosure. The idea was to allow the builder the option of PCB mounting the pots in
a 1590a!
Although it takes some planning and careful drilling it can be
accomplished by an experienced builder. There is a drill template at the end of this
build doc that should work (Ive used it myself). I would still recommend that the
builder take it slowly and verify before drilling. One small mistake can have large
consequences down the line!
The first obstacle is fitting the 1/4 inch jacks between the PCB and the footswitch. I
am in the process of trying some new jacks, but as of date, I have only made this
work with standard open frame mono jacks. Simply bend the solder terminals 90
degrees as pictured below and you should not have any issues. Do not attempt to
make it perfect. The more you bend, the weaker the metal becomes. Im a bit of a
perfectionist and had to learn the hard way!
Another obstacle is fitting the 9vdc jack at the top of the enclosure. There are two
ways I have discovered to make this work. First, you can simply bend the terminals
on the DC jack (pictured above). This will easily work if you use a small DC jack such
as the lumbergs found here. The other option would be to mount the electrolytic
caps on the bottom side of the PCB between the 9mm PCB mounted jacks (pictured
below). I personally like this choice more as It makes for a cleaner build! If you go
this route I would need to use low profile electrolytic caps like these.
The final requirement for the 1590aPCB mount build is to cut off both metal tabs on
the bottom side of the potentiometers (pictured below). A sharp pair of dikes will
easily cut the tabs but it is even easier to bend the tabs back and forth until they
snap off.
The led indicator is also included on this pcb along with a current limiting resistor
(labeled clr on the pcb). The sw pad at the bottom of the pcb connects to 3pdt
footswitch lug that you would normally connect to the led cathode. If you do not
plan to mount your led to the PCB you can just leave off the clr and wire an led as
normal.
Links:
Alpha 9mm right angle potentiometers:
Small Bear:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1139
Mammoth Electronics:
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/category-s/159.htm
Tayda:
4
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/1k-ohm-linear-taper-potentiometerroundshaft-pcb-9mm.html
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/100k-ohm-logarithmic-taperpotentiometerround-shaft-pcb-9mm.html Lumberg 9VDC Jacks: DIY guitar pedals:
http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?
main_page=product_info&cPa th=15&products_id=130
Small Bear:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?
no=1362 Low profile Electrolytic Capacitors:
DIY guitar pedals:
http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?
main_page=index&cPath=12_14 Mouser:
4u7: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECE A1EKS4R7/?
qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22RyzzjEKRzqKRu3e7DH7EtM%3d
10uF: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECE A1EKA100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22ZJeXBnf%252bMH2xe2xaDqrj9g
%3d
Schematic