+t doesnt matter yhat Tin stop eee we haslware — things Tike mus Boric ease Era ee nec vamcS Do weet an Paci rier Circa anr cared eater Cer scence Pan eeu sc serews, that one holds all sizes of ret ene cs Recreate ee Brrr eras rae aN as Cee unten poe Cone er Won sn cach drawer dere are leaty ofcon- Pa ee ces cee ee wt Rion cae cm reanru E “| Die er a a tea cas ec wt Cee nroee oe: ees EPeawees, EXPLODED VIEW SOLID OVERALL DIMENSIONS: DRAWER GUIDES: 22AW x 1810"D x 34%4"H DeAWER SIDES BEND ‘BEYOND BACK 1O.Fe DEAR ON PLN A Case Sideo (4) 16% x14%-%h Py. Nore: B Case Tope/Bottome (4) 16/4 204-4 Py. roReriiNAL © Drawer Rurmere (18) Vexa=10 he Shee eae D Case Backs (2) 181 x2Hs-'ts Py. E Case Edging (1) Signy 24 in ft. F Topfdattom Panel (2) Tx 2H la- he Pl. G Panel Edging (1) 4xPhy-14 ln fh. Hi Small Dror. Fre/Packs (12) px2-19e | Small Denn: Sides (12) Wex2-1eh Hardware J Large Dra Fré/Backo (12) Yaxdite-19e | i Lange Drwn Sidos (12) ex tllo-3ele | | » (72) #0." Fh Woodoorens Small rar. Diriders (12) taxti-4 | | » (12) #821%" Fh Woodecrewe M Large Dew: Dwidera (6) x34 (4) #0.x2" Fh Woodscrews N Drawer Bostoms (8) 1x19 a='/e Hie. (24) 4d Finioh Natio © Draner Pulls (8) "t4x2-20 10) #6x%1" Fh Woodscrews P Drawer Fler Pates (5) Wpx2fa-20 (4) 3" Locking Swivel Caotere @ Small Subdividere (108) thx Ols- tba. 16) #12x "Ph Woodscrens R Large Subaividers (64) Plox6n- a Heded, (82) °6' BradoCases This hardware storage cabinet is really two cabinets — one stacked on top ofthe other. Asyou can see in Figure 1, the tio cases that make up the cabinet ate identical. This makes the construction a little easier and also gives you the option of building just one of the cases if ‘you want a smaller storage unit for the top of your workbench. ‘Case Construction ~ Each case just an open plywood box. The FRONT VIEW case sides (A), and ease top and ger SoREN t i i we h Dattom. (B) are cut to size out of 3! plywood. Then the ends of the case sides are rabbeted to hold the top and bottom (Figures 1a and 1b). ‘Afier cutting the rabbets, you'll reed to cutt dadoes in the sides to hoki the drawer runners (see Grawing in margin), I cut these on the table saw, using a dado blade. And as you ean see in Figure 3, 1 cut the dadoes in pairs, dipping the workpiece around between each cut. Once this is done, you f 7 aryabbew along he back thescrews.Theré’s one thingtonote , making: the shallow-drawers, youl Be a ee ee eee ear re eeee er an bottom to hold a plywood back. Before assembling the case, T made the drawer runners (C) and screwed them to the sides of the case. Its easier to install them at this point rather than having to reach inside the assembled case to drive FIGURE 44 2) Fran CASE TOF mit} \ ie "PANEL (rahe rex take a lookcal the photo on page 12, explain litle more about this when ‘youll see that there are two sizes of _itcomes time tomake the drawers} drawers. If you are going to be Assembly ~The case is assem making the deep (tal) drawers, then bled with glue and a few finish nails you'll only need to screw runners driven in from the top and bottom. into every other dado (See thelower (These surfaces will be covered case in Figure 1). But if you are later) Once thisis done, you can cuta plywood back (D) to fit in the rab- beted opening. The back is just nailed in place with some small brads, The trim pieces that you will add next will cover up these brads. Edging - To hide the exposed ‘edges of the plywood, Iadded some hardwood case edemg (#) all around the front and back edges of the case, just as you see in Figure 4. ‘This edging also hides the dadoes that hold the drawer runners. Normally when I giue edging onto plywood, I make the edging extra wide and then fush trim it after its beer: glued in place. But with this project, the drawer runners would getiin the way of the router bit when trying to trim the inside edges. So youll have to be a little more careful ‘when gluing on the trim. ‘You can still make the trim pieces a little wider than needed, but just glue them on so they are flush with the inside walls pf the case. Then use a router fo trim the outer edges, fush withthe pase. 0 0 | Top & Bottom = At this point, you'can Gorinect the two cases by driving a few screws through the ‘mobility isn’t a big concern, Ce ee ROUTER bottom of the upper case into the top of the lower case Pyure 1). Then to give the cabinet a more finished look, [ sandwiched the cases between two top and bottom panels (F). These panels are identical. As Figure 1 show's, they are both just 34! ply- ‘wood panels with some mitered you might want to con- SIDE VIEW — waste pos ser ren riven wine INSIDE Boge or CASE Casters - The last step before moving on to making the drawers isto add some cesters (othe bottom ofthe cabinet (Figures 1 and Ib). Casters allow you to easily move the cabinet if you want to sweep underneath itorrollitrightup neara project you're working on. The cesters are just screwed directly to the underside of the bottom panel. sider building the fixed base you see in the photo here. The advantage of making this base over simpiy setting the cabinet directly on the floor is that it raises the cabinet up a few inches, making it easier to reach the bottom drawers. ‘The base is really nothing more than a mitered frame. The ‘top, back, and sides of the frame are joined with splined miter joints, as you see in detail ‘a.’ After the base is assembled, the bottom panel is serewed to the top edges of the frame (before it is attached to the case). Then the cabinet is screwed in place to the bottom panel. APRON, Cae FIRST: scomw Botron rAHEL FoUKeE. SECOND: Sew aEINET v0 SOTO Pee.A uniquely designea drawer front incorporates 2 finger grip as well as a holder or labels. ‘SMALL DRAWER BACK ut DRAWER BIDE, eter e%) BS the interesting features about this cabinet is the drawers. If you take a look at the photo above, you'll see that there are two drawer sizes. Since the large drawers are twice as tall 28 the small drawers, you can rearrange them within the cabinet by simply adding or taking out drawer runners (see photo on back cover). Drawers But the reelly interesting thing about these drawers are the pulls. Each pull is shaped out of a blank of solid wood and doubles as a false front for the drawer. On the front of the pull is a dovetailshaped groove that can be used to hold labels to ‘identify the contents of the drawer. Drawer Construction - Other than their heights, all the drawers are identical, The drawer fronts and backs are joined to the sides with tongue and dado join's. And each Scenes is feed wi) 4 pa ot le wood dividers that hold a number of smaller subdividers. ‘To make the drawers, start by cut- ting the drawer fronts and backs to size, as you see in Figure 5. Then you can cut tongues on the ends of Saneaieelg can ncaa on the inside face of each piece to hold the drawer dividers. Figure 5a shows this preity. “at To make the drawer sides and dividers, I started with exirawide blanks that were cut to length. This way, you can cut series ofdadoes in each blank for the drawer fronts, ‘backs, and subdividers, and then rip the individual sides and dividers to width (see Figure 6) “There arejasta couple ofthings to point out when raking the drawer sides and dividers. Fist, ifyou takea look at Figure 6a, you'l see that the drawer dividers have dadoes on both faces, while the drawer sides are dadoed on the inside face only. Second, even though the blanks | used for the drawer sides and dividers all started out the same length, the dividers will need to be trimmed to final length. Grooves ~ Before you can start to assemble the drawers, you still need to cut a few grooves, First, a narrow ‘groove is cut on the inside face of thedrawer fronts, backs, and sides for a hardboard drawer bottom. And then 2 wider groove is cut on the outside face of the drawer sides to allow the drawer io fit over the runners. Assembly ~ After cutting out the raver bottoms, you can go ahead and glue up the drawers along with the hardiwood dividers. A couple of serews help secure each divider to the drawer bottom. alls — One ofthe last steps is to. add the drawer pulls (Gee box below). These are simply glued to the front of each drawer. For the deeper drawers, you'l also need to make a filler plate to glue to the front of the drawer just beneath the pall (igure 5). Once the drawers are installed in the cabinet, all that’s left is to cut some subdividers ont of hardboard and start filing up the ‘compartments with hardware. @& Making Drawer Pulls af - Making. Skee fpr the, -shallow, dovetzilon the front of 7) tic som Lo cla ede of Te itl b usedto A= procedaré. You start by creating a ‘tapered blanks for each pull, To do this, I made a simple sled to hold the blanks atthe proper angle while running them through the thick nese planer. The planer creates a nice, smooth taper Figure 1 shows how L went about it. ‘Once you've got all your blanks ready, the next siep is to rout a DRAWER SIDE hold labels to identify the conseats- | 1° ofthe drawer. A router table and a dovetail bit are all you need for tis, as shown in Figure 2. ‘The final step is to create a hollow along the bottom edge of ‘the pull to serve as a grip for your fingers, Again, T did this on the | y_| router table, but this time using a core box bit, asyou see in Figure 3, END VIEW ie