M AG A Z I N E

THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF FINE TIMEPIECES

B ASE LWO R L D
16 PAGES OF
NEW WATCHES

42.

JAMES BOND’S
WATCHES THROUGH
THE YEARS
PATEK PHILIPPE
TRAINING
SEIKO AT 100

TAG HEUER’S
CEO TALKS TO TUDOR’S
WRISTWATCH RESURGENCE

M AY 2 014
RICHARD MILLE
MATERIALS DRIVING INNOVATION
 Entirely invented and manufactured in- house

Tourbillon Souverain - Ref. TN

Remontoire and dead-beat second
18K solid Gold movement
Platinum or red Gold case

THE BOUTIQUES

NEW YORK BOCA RATON BAL HARBOUR LOS ANGELES

+1 212 644 5918 +1 561 750 2310 +1 305 993 4747 +1 310 294 8585

PARIS GENEVA TOKYO BEIJING HONG KONG

fpjourne.com
Tourbillon Souverain - Ref. TN
Calibre 1403.2
Tourbillon with remontoire and dead-beat second,
Manual winding,
Power reserve indicator of 42 hours,
193 parts, 26 jewels, 21,600 V/h.
EDITOR’S NO

Deoxyribonucleic Acid
AFTER HEARING THE TERM TOO OFTEN in too short a time
span, I finally had to spell it out. In recent years “DNA” has been
the go-to terminology and THE reference of choice when talking
about the core values and historical precedents of a given brand.
Well the straw has finally broken this camel’s back. I’ve finally
gotten to the point where the acronym has now taken on an almost
negative connotation immediately upon utterance - simply due to
the rabid overuse.
There was certainly a causal factor for all this acronymous
repetition as it was clear that 2014 was not the year of taking
chances for the lion’s share of watch makers. Having said that,
I actually agree with the strategy of distilling a given brand’s
collections down to the stronger spirits. It seems an appropriate So the big (but not oversized) question is where do we go from
response to the somewhat soft economies around the world, and here? Oversize is overdone, “homage” may become ho-hum, and
it also makes it easier for the retailer to invest in and carry entire creativity is seemingly on a temporary hiatus—at least among the
collections – as well as the manufacture to deliver them in a timely big brands. Is it possible the best watch designs have already been
fashion. As a side effect it may also have some impact in reigning accomplished, only to be offered in the slightest annual permuta-
in the rampant discounting of the less “sellable” SKUs that always tions to inherit the provenance of a specific limited edition, year
end up on web discount sites at 40% off new in box within a month of manufacture, or association with a particular athlete or ambas-
(or less) of delivery. But using the go-to “DNA” argument to sador? Possibly. Rolex is the perfect example of “if it aint broke
obfuscate a cautious and thoughtful approach to a brand’s current – don’t fix it” and is the most successful watch brand based on a
collection is losing traction—at least with this observer. solid and simple design with very little deviation. On the other side
Having vented about terminology and presentation I will say of the argument, Hublot is a great example of what a blast of energy
that the dearth of creativity at this year’s Baselworld and SIHH and excitement can do to a stable, if under-metastasized platform.
events is likely just the swing of the pendulum. In recent years the From where I sit, and after attending my 24th consecutive
proclivity to look into the past for inspiration made sense. This Baselworld fair, I will say that as much as wild creativity may
tendency has been a clear trend followed by most, if not all brands have been more prominent in the past, I do appreciate the recent
over the last five or more years. Some would claim that it lacks tendency for brands to cultivate their own styles and design cues
creativity to simply re-visit an older watch design and build it to and really drill down to focus on what they are. Any watch that
modern proportions. Others will appreciate the homage type as an can be recognized from across the room has achieved this rare
appropriate redux in a watch market where there are only so many iconic status.
ways to re-invent the wheel. But how many times can you revisit
the 1950’s, 60’s, and 70’s before that too becomes (new) old news. I suppose it’s in their DNA……
Popular brands have also begun offering more moderated siz-
es, claiming that this is to honor the “original” (ugh) DNA of the Keep Watching,
type. I say, BS the fans – not the players. They may not admit it but
I know they are looking to the east, the Far East – and rightly so.
Even if they don’t want to admit it openly, cultivating the prefer-
ences of the strongest market makes perfect sense and I applaud
the somewhat tardy acumen of these decisions. Gary Girdvainis
TO BREAK THE RULES,
YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.

IN 1993, AUDEMARS PIGUET CHANGED THE WORLD OF THE

SPORTS WATCH FOREVER. THE POWERFUL ARCHITECTURE
OF THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE BECAME THE ULTIMATE
STATEMENT IN PERFORMANCE HAUTE HOROLOGY.

THE 2014 ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE COLLECTION MOVES THE

GAME ON ONCE MORE; THE HAND-ENGRAVED 22 CARAT
GOLD OSCILLATING MASS NOW VISIBLE THROUGH THE
SAPPHIRE CASEBACK, A WINDOW ONTO 139 YEARS OF
HOROLOGICAL MASTERY.

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE

IN STEEL. AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807
CHRONOGRAPH. NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858
BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700
WW1 CHRONOGRAPHE MONOPOUSSOIR HERITAGE · Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887
information@bellrossusa.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
 42
CONTEN

54

FEATURES

42 Cover Story: Richard Mille’s constant

experimentation with new materials continues
to drive his brand’s innovation.

54 James Bond’s wristwatches through the years.

98 WristWatch Field Report: Watchmaker training

at Patek Philippe.

102 Massachussetts Watchmaker Vineyard Time

teams with Cabot Guns.
CONQUISTADOR SPORT GPG

212.463.8898
©2013 - The Franck Muller Group, All rights reserved
CONTEN

52

BRAND FOCUS

52 Hermès gets a “Lift” from its first in-house tourbillon.

106
66 Tudor’s American Revival.

72 Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic reversible watch returns to its polo roots.

76 DeWitt crafts exceptional dials, but the company is more than a

pretty face.

80 Breva’s Génie watches are like Doppler radar on the wrist.

84 100 Years of Seiko.

92 A classic is revived at Aquadive.

106 Luxury and Exclusivity: William Henry knives stand out in a luxury
market dominated by publically traded international groups.

DEPARTMENTS
18 BaselWorld Debuts

110 Lifestyle: WristWatch’s Charles

Moyer drives and reports on the
Cadillac XTS AWD.

112 Opinion: James Henderson on

the perils that sometimes afflict
upstart watch brands.

113 Comic
W W W . U R W E R K . C O M
 “FROM THE START, WE CHOSE TO FORGE OUR OWN PATH
IN FINE WATCHMAKING. IT IS OUR WAY TO RESPECT HISTORY
AND TRADITION. OUR CHALLENGE IS TO SHOW
THAT WATCHMAKING IS ABOUT NEW IDEAS
AND POSSIBILITIES, NEW INVENTED MECHANISMS”.

W W W . U R W E R K . C O M

UR-210
Patented revolving satellite complication
with wandering hour and three-
dimensional retrograde minute hand;
power reserve indicator; winding
efficiency indicator (patent pending).
Super-LumiNova treatment on markers,
dials, indexes, hands, and satellites

CASE
Dimensions: Width 43.8mm,
length 53.6mm, thickness 17.8mm
 38%/,6+,1*

Isochron Media LLC

Group Publisher
Gary George Girdvainis

EDITORIAL

Editorial Director Worldwide Industry experts:

Gary George Girdvainis German correspondent
Elizabeth Doerr
(GLWRULQ&KLHI
Jonathan Bues 6ZLVVFRUUHVSRQGHQW
Marton Radkai
Editors/Correspondents
1RUWK$PHULFDQ(GLWRU Dutch correspondent
5REHUWD1DDV Ted Diehl
Charles Moyer
French correspondent
1RUWK$PHULFDQ&RQWULEXWRUV <-HDQ0XQQ'HOVDOOH
Keith Flamer
Jan Teglar
-HII6WHLQ

ART

Creative Direction
Command Z Creative

Art Director
Marcie Maler

Graphic designer
Ashley Robertson

Original Photography
Alonso Associates:
PDD#DORQVRSKRWRVFRP

%2$5'2)$'9,6256
Al Armstrong, Owner Armstrong Rockwell
Roberto Chiappelloni, Owner Manfredi Jewels
Pierre Halimi, Watch Industry Member
'RQ/RNH&HUWLoHG0DVWHU:DWFKPDNHU
Dr. Thomas Mao, Watch Expert
1RHO%3RLULHU0XVHXP'LUHFWRU1DWLRQDO:DWFK &ORFN0XVHXP&ROXPELD3$
John Reardon, Watch Expert

Advertising Inquiries
Isochron Media
25 Gay bower Rd. Monroe, CT 06468
3KRQH
HPDLOVDOHV#LVRFKURQPHGLDFRP
6XEVFULSWLRQVLQIR#LVRFKURQPHGLDFRP

WristWatch Magazine is published quarterly both in print and digitally by Isochron Media LLC, 25 Gay Bower Rd.
Monroe, CT, 06468. One year (four issue) subscription $24.99. Copyright 2012, all rights reserved. Editorial inquiries
should be sent to Isochron Media address. All views and opinions expressed within are those of the writers and do not
QHFHVVDULO\UHpHFWWKRVHRI:ULVWZDWFK0DJD]LQHRU,VRFKURQ0HGLD//&,661

“The trademarks, logos, and service marks (collectively the “Trademarks”) displayed in this magazine are registered
DQGXQUHJLVWHUHGWUDGHPDUNVRI,VRFKURQ0HGLD/OFLWVDIoOLDWHVDQGRWKHUV<RXFDQYLHZWUDGHPDUNVRZQHGE\
Isochron Media LLC on Trademarkia at this link: KWWSZZZWUDGHPDUNLDFRPFRPSDQ\LVRFKURQPHGLDOOF
SDJH1RWKLQJFRQWDLQHGLQWKLVPDJD]LQHVKRXOGEHFRQVWUXHGDVJUDQWLQJE\LPSOLFDWLRQHVWRSSHORURWKHUZLVH
any license or right to use any Trademark displayed in this magazine without the written permission of Isochron
0HGLD/OFRUVXFKWKLUGSDUW\WKDWPD\RZQWKHWUDGHPDUNGLVSOD\HGLQWKLVPDJD]LQH<RXUPLVXVHRIWKH7UDGHPDUNV
GLVSOD\HGRQWKLV:HE6LWHRUDQ\RWKHUFRQWHQWLQWKLVPDJD]LQHH[FHSWDVSURYLGHGKHUHLQLVVWULFWO\SURKLELWHGy
 ACCURACY TAKEN TO NEW DEPTHS

PATRAVI SCUBATEC
Discover the world 500 meters below
its surface. The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s
watch offers a multi adjustable clasp
and an automatic helium release valve
to ensure ultimate comfort and worry
free equalization of pressure. Created
with the highest grade of stainless
steel, its rugged ceramic bezel and blue
illuminated hands and dial markers
ensure perfect readability, even at the
deepest depths.
BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

WWW.CARL-F-BUCHERER.COM
CONTRIBUTO TM

MARTON RADKAI ELIZABETH DOERR CHARLES MOYER

Marton Radkai was born in New York and raised Elizabeth Doerr’s more than 20 years in luxury Charles Moyer, our Luxury Features Editor,
in France, England and Switzerland. After complet- watches has culminated in regular contributions has written extensively on the luxury lifestyle
ing an MA in Communications, he embarked on a to numerous high-quality magazines and websites for more than twenty years. Luxury watches,
career as an independent print and radio journalist, all over the world, including www.worldtempus. cars, yachts, food and wine, five-star hotels,
copywriter, editor and translator. He covers a wide com. Recently published in Vanity Fair ‘On Time’, and first class travel are his bailiwick. He travels
range of topics, from culture and human interest, Elizabeth, who lives and works in Germany’s Karl- the world with his connoisseur’s eye for all the
to travel and technologies, and as a resident of Ge- sruhe, brought out her first independent book in finer things in life to recommend to our readers.
neva, the world of watches. He is the senior editor early 2010: 12 Faces of Time, a “love letter” to in-
of Wristwatch Annual. dependent watchmaking. Doerr’s latest project is
quillandpad.com, where she brings high-quality,
longform journalism on the subject of fine time-
pieces to the web.

ROBERTA NAAS DIMITRI PAVLOVSKY KEITH FLAMER

Roberta Naas is a veteran watch journalist with 28 Dimitri Pavlovsky fell in love with mechanical Keith Flamer is a freelance journalist, blogger and
years in the industry. She has written four books watches after breaking and trying to repair a Mick- aspiring screenwriter who has written about luxury
thus far on timepieces and timekeeping history, ey Mouse watch his father gave him for his 10th watches and accessories since 1991. He’s been
and travels the world in search of insider stories, birthday. Born in Minsk, Belarus, and now living in been published in Uptown, Robb Report, Town &
and regularly brings celebrity interviews to the Switzerland, he is an independent specialist within Country, Veranda, Art & Antiques, and American
forefront, as well as watchmaker interviews and in- the Swiss horological industry, with numerous Heritage, among others. Keith also writes about ar-
sights into the active, charitable sides of the watch behind-the-scenes contacts at companies both chitecture, interior design, entertainment, sports,
brands. She is the founder of a watch e-paper, large and small in the world of watchmaking. He genealogy and he previously served as Director of
entitled atimelyperspective.com. is most at home with complicated timepieces and Business Development for Reel Biography. He is
publishes regularly on rare and unusual horologi- currently revising two screenplays (a comedy and
cal creations. Due to his expansive knowledge and a political thriller), and he plans to launch a new
often unpopular and candid opinions about the in- blog called LuxuryLunatic.com®.
ner ministrations of the horological world, Dmitri
is also our “unknown watch critic” and therefore
must remain ostensibly anonymous.
 Another Triumph in
LeagasDelaney.de

German Engineering!

ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR
Ceramic chronograph, 44mm Matte black ceramic case, automatic movement officially
prev
BASELWORD

By Jonathan Bues

BASELWORLD
Highlights
At
the end of March the editors
and writers of WristWatch
journeyed to Switzerland to
attend BaselWorld, the largest watch and
jewelry exhibition on earth.
The BaselWorld fair is where many of
the biggest names in contemporary watch-
making announce their novelities, where
new brands make their case to potential re-
tailers, and where exciting product discover-
ies are made and reported on. Additionally,
BaselWorld is more than just a wholesale
show with press previews. Open to the pub-
lic, BaselWorld hosts thousands of “civil-
ian” visitors, be they international collectors
seeking to rub shoulders with independent
watch makers, entrepreneurs seeking sup-
pliers as they prepare to launch the next hot
watch brand, or proud locals taking interest
in a distinctively Swiss industry.
In our next issue, we will report exten-
sively on several more of the hottest new
watches seen in Basel, as well as the trends
that we observed in the halls at the Messe-
platz, the exhibition space that the show
calls home.
 1
Arnold & Son
TEC1

Arnold & Son’s popular resurgence continues with the release of the
TEC1 automatic tourbillon watch. Made in house with a proprietary
tourbillon movement, the TEC1 celebrates the English-founded,
Swiss-based watchmaker’s 250th anniversary. The new tourbillon
combines a column-wheel chronograph and automatic winding,
and joins the company’s Royal Collection of timepieces, inspired
by watches made for King George II and members of the English
royal court. The movement at the heart of the piece is the exclusive
A&S 8305, finished to very exacting standards, including palladium
treatment, hand-chamfered bridges, and polished edges. We expect
that this year will be a major one for Arnold & Son given its quarter-
millenial significance. Stay tuned for more Arnold & Son premieres in
the next issue of WristWatch.

2
Ball
FIREMAN STORM CHASER PRO

The Fireman Storm Chaser Pro, released this March at

Baselworld, is the latest of the Storm Chaser Chronographs
designed by Ball Watch as part of its partnership with distin-
guished meteorologist and Ball Explorers Club member Dr.
Joshua Wurman. A Swiss-made automatic chronograph, the
Storm Chaser Pro is equipped with a telemeter bezel that
allows Wurman to identify the distance of weather phenom-
ena that can be seen and heard. As with all Ball watches,
visibility in the dark is enabled by the use of high-tech lumi-
nescent micro tubes containing tritium gas.
prev
BASELWORD

3
Blancpain
VILLERET

Named after the birthplace of the Blancpain manufacture, the Villeret

collection is the core, classical watch line of the brand. This year,
Blancpain has released an 8-day version of the Villeret in a 42 mm
stepped red gold case. The depth of the dial is something to behold,
likely because it’s crafted in Grand Feu enamel. This process involves
the application of several layers of enamel, each of which is fired
at temperatures exceeding 1,000 degrees Celsius. Tilting the watch
ever so slightly, with just the right interplay of light, reveals a subtle,
tone-on-tone signature in the lower portion of the dial. The outward
classicism and simplicity of the watch is matched with an equally
subtle yet complex eight-day automatic movement. A chocolate
brown alligator strap secures this new Villeret model to the wrist.

Breguet
CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-
THIN AUTOMATIC 5377
This ultra-thin tourbillon from Breguet actually made its debut
last year in gold. As one of the top pieces in what was generally
regarded to be a strong collection from Breguet, it’s little surprise
that it’s being reprised in the most exclusive and valuable of pre-
cious metals, platinum. Powering this svelte and complicated
dress watch is a 3 mm thin automatic tourbillon movement, Breg-
uet Caliber 581 DR. The watch itself measures just 7 mm thick,
almost unthinkable for an automatic timepiece endowed with a
tourbillon escapement with high-tech silicon components. This
was achieved by placing the winding rotor on the periphery of
the movement. The ornate white gold dial is decorated with four
engine-turned patterns.
 Individually Handcrafted Timepieces
®

Officer’s Watch
As shown: $21,950
Western single point deep relief hand-engraved case
14K hand-sculpted dial with hand-crafted dial markers
American-made, hand tooled and stitched leather strap

UNIQUE AMERICAN TIMEPIECES

Creating Watches for Distinctive individuals
Owner, founder and horologist Jeffrey Nashan’s passion is to create truly unique,
heirloom timepieces inspired by the designs of the early American watchmakers.
From start to finish, he works hand in hand with the client to create a unique
watch that is both a timepiece and a true work of art.

Officer’s Watch
Classic Model $6,275
41 mm American-made case, Swiss Movement ETA cal. 2892A2, curved back, with 18K screw-set wire lug system

124 North Main Street | Livingston, Montana 59047 | 406.222.8899 | info@montanawatch.com | www.montanawatch.com
prev
BASELWORD

Breitling
BREITLING FOR BENTLEY 6.75 MIDNIGHT

The watch-car partnership that is Breitling for Bentley, now in its twelfth
year, has more longevity than just about any other comparable collabora-
tion. This year Breitling has added a new chapter in the form of the Breitling
for Bentley 6.75 Midnight Blue. This watch takes its inspiration from the big-
gest Bentley engine, the famous 6.75-liter motor that powers the Mulsanne
limosines. Issued in a 1,000-piece limited edition, the 6.75 Midnight is as
stealthy as its luxurious automotive inspiration with a stainless steel case
protected by an ultra-resistant carbon-based coating. Inside the watch is the
COSC-certified self-winding Breitling Caliber 448 chronograph with big date.
The dial, whose dark hue completes the timepiece, is made of royal ebony.

6
Bulgari
OCTO CHRONO

With one of the most uniquely geometrical case designs

around, Bulgari’s Octo series has become one of the most
easily recognizable lines from the Italian firm, which makes
its watches in Switzerland. The case of the Bulgari Octo was
strongly influenced by Bulgari’s erstwhile Gérald Genta brand,
named for the famous watch designer, which was folded into
Bulgari’s main watch collection a few years ago. While time-
only versions have been available for some time, this year an
Octo Chrono has arrived in 18-karat gold and stainless steel
versions. Inside the 41.5 mm case is the BVL 328 automatic
movement, which features a high-speed silicium escapement
(36,000 bph) and a column-wheel chronograph.
 7
Carl F. Bucherer
MANERO CHRONOPERPETUAL
LIMITED EDITION
Founded in Lucerne, Switzerland, in 1888, the once modestly sized
Carl F. Bucherer company has evolved into what is arguably the
premier watch merchant in all Switzerland. More recently, Bucherer
has gained an international reputation for its line of house-designed
and manufactured watches. This line includes both complicated and
time only mechanical watches, as well as a line with in-house move-
ments. This year in BaselWorld, Carl F. Bucherer presented a very
complicated 100-timepiece limited edition chronograph perpetual
calendar with moon phase. Housed within an 18-karat rose gold
case, the movement is a CFB1904 automatic movement.

8
Corum
ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45
DOUBLE TOURBILLON
With its distinct and instantly noticeable angular case, and its hour chapter
denoted by nautical penants, Corum’s Admiral’s Cup line, launched in 1960,
exudes sportiness and the sailing lifestyle. Lately, too, with the introduction of
various interesting complications, Admiral’s Cup has been the centerpiece of
some of Corum’s most compelling watchmaking. This year at BaselWorld, Corum
presented the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon, a timepiece that
combines two whirlwind escapements with a retrograde date and an all-new
time adjustment system. Simply by pressing the crown pushbutton, the wearer
can bring the minute hand instantly to the top of the dial, allowing him to set the
exact time. Available in 18-karat red gold or grade 5 titanium, the watch features
a large 45 mm size and a dial with a textured pattern created by Corum.

9
Devon
TREAD 2 GOLD

As a maker of electronic watches in America, Devon Works is some-

thing of an anomaly in the rarified world of luxury timekeeping. But
the California-based design house has secured its place as one of the
more popular high-end avant-garde watchmakers operating today. At
the BaselWorld Fair, Devon presented an 18-karat gold version of the
Tread 2, a timepiece that tells the time not with hands or wheels, as
conventional timepieces do, but with belts. Previous versions of the
Tread 2 have been sold in stainless steel, but this update sports not
only a solid gold case, but a matching gold bracelet.
prev
BASELWORD

10

Frédérique Constant
SLIMLINE MOONPHASE MANUFACTURE

North and South American press and retailers at the Basel Fair were quite
impressed with this product, made exclusively for their markets. Crafted in
18-karat rose gold, the new Slimline Moonphase Manufacture is a limited edition
of 300 timepieces, each featuring a vivid blue dial and a complementary blue
alligator strap. The moon phase occupies the lower portion of the dial, sharing
space with the date indicator. Powering the 42-mm timepiece is the FC-705
mechanical movement with 42-hour power reserve. But what is most remark-
able about this limited edition, solid gold timepiece with a complicated manu-
facture movement is its price, something that always sets Frédérique Constant
apart from much of the competition. The Slimline Moonphase Manufacture will
sell for just $3,995.

11
Girard-Perregaux
1966 BLUE DIAL

This ultra-classical round gold dress watch from Girard-Perregaux

may just be the platonic ideal of the dress watch. With its conserva-
tive case size (38 mm) and elegant rose gold case framing a vivid
blue dial, it is as timeless as a modern watch could hope to be.
Inside is the in-house GP 03300-0030, an automatic movement beat-
ing at 28,800 bph with a power-reserve of 48 hours. The movement
is visible through a sapphire crystal on the watch’s back. A blue alli-
gator strap nicely complements the dial, and is secured to the wrist
by a rose gold pin buckle that matches the case.
212.463.8898
prev
BASELWORD

12

Glashütte Original
PANOMATICINVERSE

One of the telltale signs of a finely wrought German mechanical timepiece,

specifically one made in the horological center of Glashütte, is the presence
of a three-quarter plate movement with an engraved balance cock. The mas-
ter watchmakers of this small Saxon hamlet have carved out a style of watch-
making and finishing that is very much distinct from that of their Swiss coun-
terparts. Realizing that this difference does much to set German watchmaking
apart, and what endears it to so many collectors, Glashütte Original presented
the PanoMaticInverse to widespread acclaim in 2008. Basel 2014 saw an
update to this product line, known for putting the back of the movement front
and center. Now powered by the in-house Caliber 91-02, an automatic move-
ment with microrotor, the new PanoMaticInverse is available in 42 mm red
gold and stainless steel versions.

13

Hamilton
KHAKI X-WIND LIMITED EDITION

As one of the all-around best value watch marques available, Hamilton is nota-
ble for bringing high-quality Swiss-made mechanical watchmaking to a broad
audience. One of the company’s most visible specialties is its line of pilot’s
watches. This year at BaselWorld, Hamilton presented a limited-edition Khaki
X-Wind pilot’s chronograph in four different configurations (1,999 of each). Pow-
ered by the H-21 automatic chronograph movement (ETA 7750 base), the Khaki
X-Wind Limited edition comes with a 45 mm stainless steel case. A true pilot’s
instrument, the watch’s bezel includes circular tables that can be used to cal-
culate air speed and other information critical to navigating an aircraft.
14
Hermès
NANTUCKET SILVER

This year in Basel, Hermès introduced its Nantucket line of watches with the
option of a new proprietary silver case alloy, which will replace the company’s
initial 925 silver cases. The new alloy is less likely to tarnish and become oxi-
dized than standard silver. It contains no copper, 97 percent silver, and 3 per-
cent other unnamed constituent metals. Two versions of the Nantucket were
presented at BaselWorld, a diamond-set model and a model without diamonds.
Each version has an opaline, silvered dial with rhodium-plated raised Arabic
numerals. Silver wristwatches, which are rare among modern watch collections,
offer consumers the opportunity of a nice step up from stainless steel into the
“precious metal” segment, without the very high price of gold or platinum.

15
Hublot
SPIRIT OF BIG BANG

The Big Bang is Hublot’s flagship, a best seller that has inspired countless edi-
tions both limited and unlimited. The watch rose to prominence based on its
unique case construction, which created the appearance that the strap continued
through the case middle before emerging on the other side of the round case. It
also bore a most provocative name that referred directly to the origins of the uni-
verse, and thus the beginning of time itself. This year in Basel, Hublot updated the
line to include tonneau models, which it calls Spirit of Big Bang. The Spirit of Big
Bang chronograph is powered by the HUB 4700 automatic movement, developed
in collaboration with Zenith and based on that company’s famous El Primero
movement, known for its high-beat 36,000 bph frequency. Released in four ver-
sions, the Spirit of Big Bang is available in titanium, titanium with ceramic, Hublot
King gold, and Hublot King Gold with ceramic.
prev
BASELWORD

16
1 6
Jaquet Droz
GRANDE SECONDE SW CÔTES DE GENÉVE

Back in 2008, Jaquet Droz launched the Grande Seconde SW, bringing a new
and sporty dimension to a very classical brand. This year in Basel, the Grande
Seconde SW received an update in the form of the Grande Seconde SW Côtes
de Genéve. This timepiece features a dial decorated extensively with côtes de
Genéve. Further, the metal bracelet that accompanied earlier versions is now an
alligator strap. It would appear as though this particular model is capitalizing on
the popularity of the Grande Seconde SW, with its figure-eight time display and
notched bezel, while also reining the sportiness back a bit.

17
JeanRichard
1681 BLUE HORIZONS

JeanRichard’s BaselWorld collection comprised a lineup of new 1681

timepieces, two of which featuring vivid blue dials and matching
blue straps. Powered by JeanRichard’s flagship JR1000 automatic
movement, the first of these features a stainless steel case, a blue
lacquered dial and a matching blue calfskin strap. The second offers a
more luxurious interpretation of the same theme, with red gold replac-
ing the steel for the case and the addition of a small seconds and date
display, via a module, to the JR1000 movement. A blue lacquered dial
and matching blue alligator strap complete the timepiece.
prev
BASELWORD

18

Julien Coudray
L’AIGLE ROYAL

Julien Coudray may be a very small independent marque many

horological enthusiasts still are unfamiliar with, but they ought to
learn the name. With its core business focused on extremely limited
production models and unique pieces, often with particular attention
on métiers des arts, Julien Coudray watches extol a simplicity and
obvious quality that is rare in today’s watch market. Take, for exam-
ple, this L’Aigle Royal unique piece. This all-platinum model (case and
movement) features a 13-piece Grand Feu enamel dial. The center
portion depicts an eagle enamel miniature produced using Petitot’s
“point by point” technique. The hour, minute and second hands were
naturally fire blued without the use of any chemicals. The movement
itself was made from platinum using a patented process.

19

Longines
SINGLE PUSH-PIECE CHRONOGRAPH
AND TRADITION
As part of Longines’s Heritage collection, this new chronograph takes
inspiration from the fantastic timepieces, particularly chronographs,
that Longines made in previous decades. This new piece features a
column-wheel chronograph movement, exclusive to Longines, pro-
duced by ETA. As a monopusher chronograph, the start, stop and
reset functions all work consecutively via the single push button inte-
grated into the crown. Available in both gold and steel versions, these
are some of the most compelling vintage-style watches we’ve seen
recently from Longines or any other brand. But these are obviously
modern timepieces. For one thing, they sport automatic chronograph
movements, which were only invented in the late 60s, and for another,
those movements can be viewed through a see-through caseback, an
even newer development in watchmaking.
20

Louis Vuitton
TAMBOUR EVOLUTION SPIN TIME GMT

Four years ago, Louis Vuitton introduced the Tambour Spin Time, an inge-
niuous GMT movement that used a wholly new and yet completely logical
method to display the time. Then last year, the French-owned maker of
Swiss luxury watches made subtle changes to its longtime flagship line
of Tambour watches, calling the modern result the Tambour Evolution. At
Baselworld 2014, the newly redesigned Tambour Evolution line has the
benefit of including a Spin Time GMT model, powered by the LV 111 move-
ment invented and manufactured at the Vuitton-owned, Geneva-based
horology house La Fabrique du Temps. This latest model features a case
made from pink gold and “black MMC,” a form of ceramicized aluminum.
Conventional hour and minute hands indicate the time, while the rotating
cubes that give the model its name denote the 24-hour GMT cycle.

21
1
Nomos
NEW TETRA MODELS

As a tribute to Berlin, the city home of its in-house creative agency Berlinerblau,
Nomos presented four new models within its square-cased Tetra line at the Basel-
World show. These models feature an array of vivid dial colors meant to evoke the
artistic, multicultural, and just plain cool city that inspires Nomos design. Each of
these timepieces features Nomos’s in-house manually wound Alpha caliber, with
the exception of the turquoise Kleene, which uses the DUW 4310 movement with
power reserve indicator. At a mere 29.5 mm side to side, these square watches
are definitely on the small side for modern watch offerings. But because they are
squares, they do wear slightly larger on the wrist than if they had been round.
Each of the new Tetras comes on a velour gray strap.
prev
BASELWORD

22
Omega
SPEEDMASTER MARK II

In 1969, Omega released the Speedmaster Mark II as an updated

version of its popular Speedmaster Chronograph. With the 45th
anniversary of the Mark II, a watch whose late ‘60s design served as
a harbinger of much of the watch design to come in the early ‘70s,
Omega has decided to revisit this sporty icon with a series of brushed
stainless steel re-editions. These watches are true to the spirit of the
Speedmaster Mark II’s late ‘60s design, and yet the movements inside
are modern Omega Co-Axials with Si14 silicon balance springs.

23
Patek Philippe
ANNUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH
REF. 5960/A1-001
First introduced in 2006 in platinum, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5960 annual
calendar chronograph became one of the company’s most popular
complicated models almost immediately. It’s combination of good
looks, complexity, and relative affordability (compared to other calendar
watches and chronographs from the brand) were the recipe for a sure-
fire hit. Unsurprisingly, the additional models in yellow gold, rose gold
and white gold followed. This year in Basel, there was a bit of a surprise,
as Ref. 5960 made its debut in stainless steel. The familiar combination
of an annual calendar, which tracks the date without adjustment all year
except for the final day of February, and a chronograph, is very appealing
in sporty steel. In fact, the sporty character of this watch is enhanced
with the red chronograph hand and accents.
prev
BASELWORD

24
Rado
HYPERCHROME AUTOMATIC SMALL SECOND

The latest from Rado, these new automatic HyperChromes with Small Seconds
feature cases made through a proprietary plasma ceramic technique. The
molecular composition of the ceramic is changed by gasses activated at high
temperature. Plasma ceramic is known for its distinctive metallic shine. How-
ever, the ceramic has no metal in it at all, making it a great choice for collectors
with skin allergies.

25
Raymond Weil
NABUCCO LIMITED EDITION

The family that owns Raymond Weil, the Bernheims, are well known
music aficionados and audophiles. In addition to sponsoring musical
events on the world stage such as the Classic BRIT awards, the fam-
ily has also made a practice of naming certain models after the great
names from classical music. Nabucco is the name of Verdi’s four-act
operatic masterpiece. The Nabucco watch is an automatic chrono-
graph that has been a flagship model at Raymond Weil for several
years. This year, the Geneva company presented a special edition
stainless steel and titanium Nabucco that is accompanied by a pair of
custom Sennheiser headphones (valued at $650) in the same black and
red colors as the Nabucco. The total price for this set is $5,450.
Navy SEAL Steel Colormark Series No. 3152: 44mm, stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, carbon www.luminox.com
reinforced polycarbonate bezel, tempered scratch resistant mineral crystal, water resistant to 200 meters, solid link
facebook.com/Luminox
stainless steel bracelet with security clasp, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.
Preferred timepiece of Elite Special Forces Worldwide.
prev
BASELWORD

26
Savoy
ICON EXTREME CARBON 43 MM COLLECTION

Savoy, the fashion forward Swiss luxury watch brand, presented a limited edi-
tion collection of five new timepieces in Basel (100 of each) called the Icon
Extreme Carbon 43 mm. These chronographs will be made in stainless steel,
PVD black, or IP plated metal with carbon fiber inserts embedded in the side,
bezel, lugs, pushers and case back. Powering the new collection is a Swiss-
made Ronda quartz movement that, in addition to its chronograph, features
displays for the date, day, and month.

27
Schaumberg
RETROLATEUR

This new timepiece from German brand Schaumberg is actually a combina-

tion of two watchmaking terms—the retrograde display and the regulateur.
The former refers to a complication by which a the hand of a display follows a
linear path and then instantly snaps back to zero before resuming its traversal
of the display. The latter is the proper French name for the regulator display, in
which the hour, minutes, and seconds displays do not interfere with reading
one another. Typically, this is achieved by a central minutes display, an hour
subdial somewhere off to one side, and the seconds on the other. Here, the
seconds are read via two separate retrograde displays—one on the bottom
for the seconds zero through 30, and above that, 30 through 60. When one
display reaches its end, the other seamlessly picks up. Powering the Schaum-
berg Retrolateur is a Swiss-made Unitas movement that has been decorated
by Benzinger (visible through the see-through caseback.) It’s retail price is a
very reasonable $3,185.
prev
BASELWORD

28
Tissot
GLAMOROUS

It’s a little known fact that after Swatch, Tissot is the number-
one largest watchmaker in Switzerland by volume. Just look
around at the wrists of Swiss citizens and you begin to see just
how popular this brand is in its native land. Tissot is known
for offering an excellent quality-to-price ratio. The brand also
makes a point to presenting interesting watches for ladies
within its collection. This is certainly the case with the new Tis-
sot Glamorous, an 18-karat gold oval dress watch with mother-
of-pearl dial. Available in diamond-set and standard versions,
the Glamorous lives up to its lofty name and then some.
Endowed with a scratch-proof sapphire crystal and a genuine
leather strap, and powered by a Swiss quartz movement, this
is one luxurious yet practical timepiece for ladies.

29

Tudor
HERITAGE BLACK BAY

The modern comeback of the Tudor brand can be traced to the highly suc-
cessful launch of the Heritage Black Bay. That timepiece, announced in 2012
to widespread acclaim and winning the “Revival” category at the Geneva
Grand Prix, is now being released with a cool blue bezel that recalls the
Tudor “Snowflake” Submariners of yesteryear. The new Heritage Black Bay
measures 41 mm in diameter and features a unidirectionally rotating bezel
for divers. The movement, a Swiss-made automatic, has 38 hours of power
reserve. Water resistant to 200 meters, the timepiece ships with the choice
of either a steel bracelet or an aged leather strap with folding clasp. An
additional fabric strap with buckle is supplied with the Heritage Black Bay.
prev
BASELWORD

30
Ulysse Nardin
DUAL TIME MANUFACTURE

Ulysse Nardin has been ramping up its in-house movement-making

capabilities for the past several years, an effort that has borne fruit
at the last two BaselWorld Fairs. It’s little surprise, then, to see yet
another manufacture caliber join the growing list of movements
designed and made at the company’s headquarters. This year’s
new addition is a GMT model whose home and travel times can be
adjusted forward or backword without any danger to the mecha-
nism. The movement powering Dual Time Manufacture is the Cal.
UN-334, which comes equipped with a silicon escapement—Ulysse
Nardin having helped to pioneer this technology a little more than a
decade ago. Sized at a moderate 42 mm in diameter, the Dual Time
Manufacture will be available in rose gold and stainless steel.

31
Zenith
EL PRIMERO 410

This watch was actually previewed in Geneva in January. Still, it fig-

ured among the most talked about timepieces in Zenith’s collection
at BaselWorld. The El Primero Caliber 410, to be released this year
as a 500-piece limited edition, is a triple calendar chronograph with
moon phase. The movement in question, which is also the name of
the watch, was one of the first-ever El Primeros presented by Zenith
in 1969. It went out of production in the year 2000 and now returns
in this 1970s retro presentation. At 42 mm in diameter, the new El
Primero 410 is a modern watch with the design cues of the ‘70s.
 Protect what is precious to you.

Contact Luxury Products International:

TEL.: 347-329-2971
FAX.: 347-685-1900 27th March to 3rd April 2014

Email: info@luxuryproductsinternational.com
Facebook: Luxury Products International Visit us at Baselworld
Hall 2.2 Booth D43
www.luxuryproductsinternational.com Contact us to make an appointment.
COVER STORY

Ma t e r i a l l y

Mille
In the fifteen years since it’s founding, Richard Mille has transformed
the luxury sports watch market by placing new materials in haute
horlogerie. With the introduction of NTPT® Carbon watchcases,
the company’s leadership in high-tech horology continues.

By Jonathan Bues

F rom the founding days his epon-

ymous watch company, Richard
Mille has made a point of mak-
ing a different kind of timepiece. While the
majority of brands and watchmakers re-
and kept up to date on the bleeding edge
technologies surrounding the sport. Refus-
ing to be constrained by the conservative
notions that often prevail at established
maisons, Mille was keen to incorporate his
stricted themselves with a familiar palette observations from performance cars into
of shapes, sizes, materials and complica- his performance watches. He expressed
tions, Mille sought to invent truly modern this philosophy with a pithy and accurate
haute horlogerie timepieces. tagline. Richard Mille watches were “Rac-
An avid fan of Formula 1, Richard ing Machines for the Wrist.”
Mille imbued his watches with designs and While others may boast of automotive
materials drawing from the preeminent connections, a tire tread strap, or a carbon
autosport in the world. He forged partner- fiber dial, what’s really on offer is often
ships with elite drivers like Felipe Massa mere F1 simulacra.
RICHARDMILLE

The RM 35-01 Rafael Nadal

COVER STORY
Left: Richard Mille’s New NTPT
Carbon watchcase.

Right: The RM 50-01 Tourbillon

Chronograph G-Sensor Lotus F1
Team Romain Grosjean

Mille, meanwhile, continues to reduce case-making factory in Le Breuleux. But if

weight and enhance performance in his history is any guide, other brands will look
watches by evolving along with the R&D so to copy him in the future.
instrumental to his favorite sport. He enters NTPT® Carbon is unlike previous ap-
the racing pits and kicks tires, so to speak, plications of the organic material that have
always thinking about untapped possibili- been used in watchmaking. On an aesthetic
ties for watchmaking. level, NTPT® Carbon has a wavy, wood-
grained appearance that bears a passing
NTPT® CARBON resemblance to Damascus steel. This is
But it’s not just Formula 1 that inspires markedly different from the grid-like, wo-
Richard Mille’s designs. In October 2013, ven structure of traditional carbon fiber or
Mille announced a new case material called the irregularity of forged carbon, in which
North Thin Ply Technology Carbon, NTPT® heaps of carbon fiber segments are stuffed
for short. NTPT® Carbon, which saw its into a mold and then compressed at high
first sporting application in America’s Cup pressure and temperature.
sailing as both a sail and mast material, is With NTPT® carbon, filaments are
an incredibly rigid substance that marks a separated from larger carbon fibers until
significant technological improvement over they are a maximum of 30 microns thick.
traditional carbon fiber. In the years since, Then these very small filaments are re-
Formula 1, the space industry, the Solar Im- woven into layers and set in place with the
pulse flight project and Richard Mille have help of resin. When layering the “sheets”
seized on this thin-plied carbon fiber “tape” to form a three-dimensional block of ma-
as the basis for making critical components. terial, the manufacturers stagger them 45
Mille may be the first watch brand to ma- degrees with each respective layer, thereby
chine cases from NTPT® Carbon at his new guaranteeing the greatest rigidity in every
 RICHARDMILLE

direction. NTPT® Carbon is a deconstruc-

tion of carbon fiber that results in a mate-
rial far more suitable for casemaking than
any application before or since.

NEW NTPT® CARBON MODELS

January’s recent SIHH fair allowed Rich-
ard Mille the opportunity to present two
new timepieces with cases entirely ma-
chined from NTPT® Carbon. The first of
these lightweight timepieces is the Tourbil-
lon Chronograph G-Sensor Lotus F1 Team
Romain Grosjean, known by its shorter
reference, the RM 50-01. The RM 50-01
comes with two conventional horological
complications, the tourbillon and the chro-
nograph, along with a more recently devel-
oped indicator for recording and displaying
the maximum Gs that a driver pulls while
changing speed or direction on the track.
Readers may remember that the G-Sensor
made its initial appearance last year in the
RM 36, made by Mille for FIA president
and Richard Mille ambassador Jean Todt.
COVER STORY
caption

A rear view of the RM 35-01 Rafael

Nadal, with its NTPT Carbon case fea-
turing an irregular, wood-grain patern
reminiscent of Damascus steel.

Two of the RM 50-01’s complications

are right at home in the cockpit of a
racecar. The chronograph has, of course,
been a critical component in the driver’s
kit for years. Richard Mille’s mechanical
G-Sensor, introduced for the first time
at SIHH 2013, is right at home in such
an environment as well. Opting for a
complicated escapement with a reputation
for vulnerability to shocks is textbook Mille.
Making tourbillons less and less prone to
breaking under the stresses endured by
performance drivers has been part of the
Richard Mille story since the release of
the RM 001, itself a tourbillon and the first
watch the firm ever released back in 2001.

A NEW WATCH FOR RAFA

Who can forget the sensation caused back
in 2010 when Rafael Nadal donned the
ultra-lightweight RM 0027 tourbillon dur-
ing the French Open, winning the event in
convincing fashion and giving rise to the
term “Nadal watch”?
The fact that a top-level tennis player
would wear a watch on court was unusu-
al, but when everyday tennis spectators
learned that the timepiece in question was
a $500,000 micro-machine with a sophis-
ticated mechanism for meting out the time,
mainstream news organizations took note.
While high-end wristwatch cognoscenti
needed no introduction to the watches of
Mr. Mille, it was nice to see such a niche
haute horlogerie marque talked about on yes, of course, he too wore his watch, an ized manually wound RMUL3 movement,
the evening news. RM038, during competition as he went on which uses a conventional Swiss lever
This bit of clever marketing not only to win the prestigious Masters Tournament escapement to tell the time. Beating at a
spoke directly to just how lightweight and two out of the last three years. conventional 4 Hz, the RMUL3 features
shock resistant Richard Mille’s timepieces This year at SIHH, the Nadal-Mille a power reserve of 55 hours and is pow-
are, it also opened up the brand to a wider partnership continues with the new RM ered by two large barrels to provide plenty
audience who may not have heard about 35-01, a lightweight timepiece crafted in of torque. The RMUL3 has been tested at
Richard Mille through its already estab- the spirit of the RM 27 line, which Nadal Mille’s Les Breuleux facility with exposure
lished connections to Formula 1. Soon after has worn since 2010, but with the notable to extreme shocks in excess of 5000 Gs.
Nadal, American professional golfer Bubba distinction of an NTPT® Carbon case. The result is a movement whose intricately
Watson signed on to the growing team of Within this newly engineered case is skeletonized, lightweight frame belies just
Richard Mille sports ambassadors. And an ultra lightweight and highly skeleton- how robust it really is.
 RICHARDMILLE

The RM 61-01 Yohan Blake

RM 61-01 YOHAN BLAKE

Clearly, the product development team
at Richard Mille is impressed with the
possibilities presented by its new NTPT®
In virtually Every
Carbon casemaking. A third model, Situation , Mr. mille
presented in conjunction with Jamaican
sprinter and Olympian Yohan Blake, also
looks to minimize a
features the material in its case, though in watch's weight and
increase its resis-
a slightly different application.
Like the RM 59-01 before it, the RM
61-01 Yohan Blake also features a light- tance to shocks .
weight, asymmetrical tonneau watchcase
 Left: Last year’s RM 27-01
Tourbillon Rafael Nadal,
whose movement was
suspended in the case with a
complex wire system.

feat worthy of praise.

SUSPENSION CABLES The case of this revolutionary time-

piece is no slouch either. Constructed
AND NANOTUBES from an extremely strong anthracite poly-
mer injected with carbon nanotubes, the
While the big story at Richard Mille this RM 27-01 was designed for lightness and
year was without question the introduc- rigidity in order to protect the tourbillon
tion NTPT® Carbon, every year Richard movement suspended within.
Mille looks to push the boundaries of A similar application of carbon nano-
materials science and case and move- tubes was seen in the case of the RM
ment construction. 59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake, also of last
In virtually every situation, Mr. Mille year. This timepiece, which came in at
looks to to minimize a watch’s weight and over $600,000, is made of a translucent
increase its resistance to shocks—while, yellow-green composite that was also
of course, delighting collectors. Some injected with carbon nanotubes.
of the more notable models from last And of course, no attendee to the SIHH
year that did just that are the RM 27-01 of 2012 could forget what was arguably
Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, which features a the show-stealer, Richard Mille’s RM056,
movement made from titanium and LITAL, a limited edition wristwatch created
a lithium alloy containing aluminum, cop- entirely in sapphire crystal for longtime
per, magnesium and zirconium. brand ambassador Felipe Massa. The first
This movement is suspended within ever watch made from sapphire crys- with a skeletonized movement whose bridg-
its watchcase via a completely original tal, the RM056 required a tremendous es evoke a claw, in reference to Blake’s
architecture reminiscent of a suspension financial outlay in R&D, and came with a nickname, “the Beast.” In the case of this
bridge. Four braided steel cables, each reflective price tag of about 1.6 million latest watch, however, the three-part ton-
with a diameter of just 0.35 mm, attach Swiss francs. All five of the pieces sold neau case is constructed with TZP black
the movement to the case. A system of within the first few days of the show. ceramic forming the upper bezel and case
tensioners at 3 and 9 o’clock holds these back. In addition to being highly scratch-
cables taut with the help of pulleys in resistant, this low-density material (6g/cm3)
the four corners of the movement. Once has a low thermal conductivity coefficient,
the watchmaker positions the movement making it extremely confortable to wear in
and threads the cables, he tensions them all temperatures, even when training under
by rotating a central tensioner ring. The the hot Jamaican sun. It is constituted of
visual impact of this system should not 95% yttrium-stabilized zirconium and has a
be understated. In addition to being very natural, pronounced grain that makes for an
lightweight and shock resistant (up to attractive finish. Sandwiched between these
5000 G), the movement appears to float two ceramic layers is a case band made from
within the center of the watch when NTPT® carbon, providing a rigid, light-
viewed from several feet. Up close, it weight and shock-resistant core of protec-
looks as if attached by threads. That it tion for the movement within. The crown,
could survive a grueling five-setter on the
wrist of Rafa is indeed an engineering
 RICHARDMILLE

NEW MATERIALS
The RM 36-01 G-Sensor
Sebastien Loeb Richard Mille is understandably reticent
regarding public discussion of the new
materials he plans to deploy in forthcoming
watch collections, but when we recently
spoke to him, he assured WristWatch that
there was no shortage of innovation already
too, is fashioned from NTPT® carbon, dem- special diamond tools. in the pipeline.
onstrating the exactitude with which Rich- Likewise, the case band is complex— Based on what we have learned about
ard Mille machines this new material. made from an extremely strong anthracite the brand over its decade and a half of
polymer injected with carbon nanotubes. watchmaking, we can assume that what-
RM 36-01 SEBASTIEN LOEB This durable yet lightweight combination ever new materials Mr. Mille chooses to
The RM 36-01 Competition G Sensor Se- protects the movement against shocks. source will have already been proven in
bastian Loeb is the heir to a similar G Sen- Finally, the case back and fixed bezel the furnace of F1 or some other industry
sor watch made last year for FIA president come in grade-5 titanium, not a new mate- where performance is valued above all. Mr.
Jean Todt. This time, however, Richard rial to be certain, but one that Richard Mille Mille has continually resisted horological
Mille has eschewed the tonneau style case helped to pioneer in high-end watchmak- gimmickry, sometimes in contrast to the
shape in favor of a three-part round case ing. This rigid and corrosion-resistant ma- competion.
made from extremely advanced materials. terial is actually an alloy composed of 90% Rather than slap a carbon fiber dial on
The timepiece’s rotating bezel is in TZP-Z titanium, 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. a watch because it “looked like something
brown ceramic, made of aluminum oxide Inside this complex case is a move- from Formula 1,” he reduced his watches’
powder tubes injected at a pressure of al- ment manufactured specifically for this weight and increased shock resistance by
most 2,000 bar. Distinguished by its note- watch, the manual winding tourbillon inventing the first carbon nanofiber base-
worthy scratch resistance and color stabil- caliber RM36-01, with hours, minutes, blate. Innovations in this utilitarian vein
ity, brown ceramic requires a difficult and rotary G-sensor, power reserve indicator are what we have come to expect each year
long machining and grinding process with and function selector. from Richard Mille. a
COVER STORY

WristWatch Interview
with Richard Mille
WristWatch: When did you decide that you wanted to
design your own watches?
Richard Mille: It was on my mind for many years before RM: Always, but that is par for the course. The machining
it actually happened; although I loved many kinds of watches, and working processes of materials for use in airplanes, cars and
I slowly began to get bored with what I was seeing everywhere. satellites will always be different from the requirements of watch-
I started to really dislike everything being so ‘flat’ and two di- making. This is even clearer when you realize that watches are
mensional, and I wanted to break out of the mold. This feeling normally created with tolerances of a just a few microns, which
was behind the creation of my first sketches. It would take time, in itself brings along a whole other set of challenges to the table.
however, before I found the manufacturers and investors who also
understood what I was aiming for, and the project could get start- WW: Have there been any dead ends—materials that
ed. But all that is ancient history now after 15 years have passed! you thought might work but that proved inappropriate
for watchmaking?
WW: When did you realize that you could use unconven- RM: Well, sure…some materials can look good but wear down
tional materials in haute horlogerie? easily. Others can be strong enough, but have a low level appear-
RM: From the very beginning. I mean, I had already seen ance or be too difficult to work with. For instance, there were many
close up on the racetrack how materials revolutionized the ceramic materials that I rejected some years ago until we found
construction of high-end sports cars as well as racing cars, so it an extremely tough new type that looks just like metal and can be
was self evident to me on a technological level that there was no finished exactly in the same manner. Even though my use of ALU-
other way to go. SIC watchcases was a world first in the RM009 several years back,
and despite the fact that the material was excellent for the task, it
WW: Where did the inspiration to pursue ultra-light was just too hard and too difficult to work with on a regular basis,
wristwatches germinate? with an extremely high rejection of parts due to the special milling
RM: It all began with my friend Felipe Massa. He is one process it required. Sometimes even when something does work, it
of the few F1 drivers who really wears his watch during races, ends up being too extreme to be practical for us to use all the time.
and he wanted a watch that was very light so he would not feel it
on his wrist when he was subjected to the high G-forces on the WW: Does Richard Mille retain any exclusive rights to the
racetrack. That led to the birth of the landmark RM006 Felipe use of NTPT® Carbon in watchmaking?
Massa tourbillon weighing in at 48 grams, marking the first use RM: We have registered its implementation and use in
of carbon nanofiber in watchmaking as well as the first ultra- watchmaking, but I am also sure that the idea will be copied by
light timepiece in my collection. unscrupulous people soon enough, so I have no illusions about
that. This is a serious problem for all brands in the industry, and
WW: Does playing with new materials lead to inherent it is getting worse with each passing year. All we can do is try to
difficulties when adapting them to the specific needs of always be one step ahead of the copyists by constantly bringing
a luxury sports watchcase? new ideas to the table.
 Richard Mille (left) with brand
ambassador Yohan Blake

WW: What was the biggest challenge you and your team to have corresponding sleeves, tubes, special washers and rings
overcame in materials technology at RM watches? for their attachment. This greatly increased the number of parts
RM: It is hard to say which was the biggest challenge, needed to make the watch, as well as increasing the cost of pro-
but in terms of time, research and development it must be my duction exponentially.
watches with sapphire cases and specific movement parts, like
the RM056 and RM56-01. The creation of those timepieces took WW: Are there any other funky substrates coming down
years and millions in investments to realize. the line that we should be looking for?
RM: You know, I am always looking at least 5 years ahead
WW: Can we discuss some special techniques that may with my planning and ideas, so of course there are new plans in
have been developed specifically to build various compo- the making, but all I can say is that the amount of new materials
nents, including the case, base plate, inserts, bridges, etc.? available to us, and ideal for watchmaking, are too numerous
to mention.

I am always looking at least WW: How much longer do you plan to remain active in
five years ahead with my the company that bears your name?

planning and ideas.

RM: As long as I am enjoying the challenges, I am in no rush
to go. But of course, despite the fact I plan to reach 100, I am ap-
- Richard Mille proaching the age and period in my life when I would like to relax
and have more free time for activities like my car collection, rac-
RM: Well let’s take an earlier example like the use of carbon ing and many other interests. Also, it is imperative to secure the
nanofiber baseplates. In the earliest RM’s like the RM002 - the future of my brand, and I will certainly be sure to take the time
first to use a titanium baseplate by the way—we had to overcome to guarantee that—for the people who work for me as well as for
the material’s hardness when drilling and tapping for the screws our clients around the world, who expect and deserve continuity
for the placement of components. However, when we went to the years down the road.
carbon nanofiber baseplate versions, it required the creation of
a whole new method of construction; although the carbon nano-
fiber is exceptionally stable in all directions, it cannot be tapped
for screws like metal. So, this meant every single screw needed
HERMÈS
GETS LIFT
FROM FLYING
TOURBILLON
By Keith Flamer
The famous luxury brand reinterprets an historic
boutique through a limited edition timepiece.

W
ith the Arceau Lift, Hermès subtly incorporated into its watches for hand-wound movement—Calibre H1923, a
takes an unexpected journey nearly two decades—courtesy of its Heure reference to the year the elevator was in-
through uncharted territory to H watch and the Cape Cod watches. But stalled in the boutique. Parts of the multi-
get to a familiar place—home. Famous for Hermès doesn’t merely throw the letter H layered movement “form a dial with a raised
leather goods, scarves and accessories, the on a dial. The “H” seamlessly blends into chevron motif, alternating between purely
luxury fashion house unveils the “Lift,” the design itself both technologically and decorative and more specifically horologi-
its latest tourbillon—which is inspired by aesthetically. With Arceau Lift, the “H” cal finishes.”
Hermès’ own historic boutique at 24 Rue gets haute horlogerie treatment in perhaps True to Swiss watchmaking tradition,
du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Some- the most innovative ways imaginable— bridges, wheels and screws are hand-bev-
times a house is more than a home—some- within the tourbillon mechanisms. eled while the 12 o’clock jewel surround, as
times it’s a complicated watch. Interlocking double “H’ motifs topping well as the double H topping the tourbillon
Although Hermès has a history of Arceau Lift’s tourbillon carriage and the carriage, feature the mirror-polishing tech-
experimentation while staying true to its barrel bridge represent the early 20th cen- nique also known as specular polishing. The
roots, the flying tourbillon is still a pleas- tury interior design of the Hermès’ boutique complication’s superior finishing can be ad-
ant surprise—just as it was in 1928 when in Paris—particularly the wrought iron mired on both sides of the case, including
the company introduced the Hermès Belt work of the entrance, bannisters, handrails through a circular viewing window carved
Watch, designed specifically for golfers. and the installed elevator door (or “lift,”) out in the back of the gold case—which is
Since the 1930s when it began manufactur- from which the watch derives its name. Ac- inscribed with the Hermès ex-libris.
ing timepiece collections, ingenious design cording to the company, Arceau Lift sym- Naturally, Arceau Lift is fitted with a
has been Hermès’ forte more than compli- bolizes the union between the Hermès and rich, hand-stitched alligator strap, a Her-
cation feats. But just as the Belt Watch was Hollande families. mès specialty. Limited to 176 watches, each
a launching pad for a full Hermès collec- To the keener eye, the clever design Arceau Lift is engraved with its unique
tion so is the Arceau Lift for Hermès’ major motifs create an optical illusion where number within the overall collection.
complications credibility. each double H combines to form a larger H The caseback inscription tells the Her-
Hermès watches are always inspired— within its cage. Aesthetically, the tourbil- mès story. What began as a harness shop
by saddles, horses, handbags, belts, dog lon appears to be flying as carriage rotations for European noblemen has evolved into a
collars, sailboat portholes and even leisure elegantly display the double H whereas the luxury goods company with a diverse watch
locales. This time, Arceau Lift’s inspiration second double H above the barrel bridge in collection. There’s no collection quite like
is born closer to home, from architecture. the upper part of the watch remains fixed. Hermès. And there’s no watch like home—
The brand’s signature “H” has been Arceau Lift is powered by a mechanical except for Arceau Lift. a
 By Dell Deaton

THE TIME
WHEN JAMES BOND
DID NOT WEAR A
WRISTWATCH
Evolution Of The Original Spyware
 The very first James Bond movie watch remained
a mystery for over fifty years until finally identified
through original research by Dell Deaton in 2013.
In 1962, Sean Connery was wearing a Gruen Preci-
sion caliber 510 when he made history in declaring
himself as “Bond, James Bond” for the movie “Dr. No.”
Connery wore this Gruen model in four of the first
five EON Productions 007 movies, and it was the only
James Bond wristwatch for “You Only Live Twice.”

Dr No (1964), Sean Connery as Ian Fleming’s James

Bond 007, EON Productions

movie-magic are all built on identifiable base-ref-

erences from Breitling, Omega, Rolex, and Seiko.
All the easier to draw us into the world of James
Bond and into the James Bond lifestyle through a
fundamental connection, that we, too, rely upon—
for all sorts of reasons.
From the beginning, Bond checks his watch
to see the time. Recall Sean Connery’s debut
portrayal, sidetracked in the bedroom of his own
London flat, delayed by unexpected “opportunity”
presented by Sylvia Trench. Embracing this first
Bond girl, he consults the Gruen dress watch worn
tastefully under his shirt sleeve. Accordingly, he
revises his need to go after Doctor No from “im-
mediately,” to “almost immediately.”
By 1964 “James Bond” had sufficient cachet
to get away with wearing a diver’s watch with a
white dinner jacket, bowtie, and carnation. By
the end of the 1960s, Bond had transformed style
itself, defining this combination of tool watch

Twenty-nine distinctly different wrist-

watch models, without discernable
repeats,” you say, taking a tally from
my online list for the movies.
That’s the total number of watches confirmed
as having been worn on-screen as counted among
the seven actors formally playing the James Bond
Photo copyright 2013-2014 JamesBondWatches.com

character across twenty-five motion pictures,

spanning fifty years, 1962 to present. Whew! Two
of those watches feature some sort of gold plating.
and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

Four (some would argue five) divers are rated to

600 meters.
And not once since 1971 has Agent 007 actu-
ally had to wind his watch to keep it running.
In all cases, these are real-world wristwatch-
es; pieces that you and I can and have bought
as consumers. Even the fantastic gadget-effects
added by property departments and other forms of
 Largely hidden beneath prop department hous-
ing intended to create the impression of a Geiger
Counter from Q-Branch, was set a straightforward
Breitling Top Time model 2002.3/N chronograph.
Even less commonly known is the fact that the
concept of this very first gadget-watch originated
with 007-creator Ian Fleming himself, in his 1961
novel “Thunderball,” published four years before
the movie-version premiered.

Thunderball (1965), Sean Connery as Ian Fleming’s

James Bond 007, EON Productions

Photo copyright 2014, 2009 JamesBondWatches.com

and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

Obviously, James Bond must wear a

wristwatch.
Agreed. In fact, that’s what makes the
movies so powerful when we stop to look at
any moment in time when he does not.
To be clear—I’m not talking about
continuity errors and nitpicking against
the inherent differences in making a movie
that can only ever pretend to be life. At
best such scrutiny devolves to insider-
baseball. At worst, it breaks the fourth
wall in distracting ways that keep us from
understanding how that the absence of
James Bond watch both further defines the
and tuxedo as aspirational, himself as its James Bond character and the importance
Photo copyright 2008, 2014 JamesBondWatches. standard-bearer. As his next ten years on of wristwatches when he does wear them.
com and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.
the big screen unfolded through the 1970s, A willing suspension of disbelief must be
Bond ceased to wear anything but the lat- indulged in order to thoroughly enjoy all
est in wristwatch technology. Sometimes movies. Even more so with Bond.
The Pulsar P2 model 2900 digital watch was
this commitment is brightly evident as in Again: James Bond is a fictional char-
the most accurate timekeeper of its day,
literally putting a computer on Bond’s wrist. the case of his Pulsar digital choice from acter, but his wristwatches are real. The
This James Bond watch was manufactured by the Hamilton Watch Company. Other times former structures organization of the latter,
Hamilton Watch Company in the very same
county where the museum is now located. you’ll have to look closely for dial mark- which is substantive content.
ings to see just how far the watches of today At the risk of pun, I’ve for years sug-
Live and Let Die (1973), Roger Moore as Ian
are able to go in supporting Agent 007 as a gested that one of the keys to the “timeless”
Fleming’s James Bond 007, EON Productions.
field operative. nature of James Bond stories is the way in
Don’t Wear It?
We’ll Buy It.
Sell the fine timepieces, diamonds and jewelry you no longer
wear to Govberg Jewelers. Our estate buying experts purchase
jewelry and watches – rare, vintage and modern – from private
collections in a discreet and confidential manner.

Place your trust in Govberg Jewelers.

PLACE YOUR TRUST IN GOVBERG JEWELERS.

AVAILABLE FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS AND PHONE CONSULTATIONS
CALL TO LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR ESTATE BUYING SERVICES

GOVBERGWATCHES.COM 800.528.8463
 Photo copyright 2014, 2011 JamesBondWatches.com
and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.
The 2008 “Quantum of Solace” took little other than its title and lead
character from the Ian Fleming short story with which it shares the
name. In fact, while actor Daniel Craig wore an Omega Seamaster Plan-
et Ocean reference 2201.50 on-screen, Fleming makes no reference
whatsoever to any Bond watch, of any kind, in his literary precursor.
So this image brings the two a little closer, with the present-day watch
model appearing on a physical copy of an original “Quantum of Solace”
first edition -- published by “Cosmopolitan” magazine, May 1959.

Quantum of Solace (2008), Daniel Craig as Ian Fleming’s James Bond

007, EON Productions.

which they fundamentally pit hero against anticipation of the explosions that James
the clock. “Thrillers,” as 007 author-cre- Bond himself has set to come at the Rus-
ator Ian Fleming labeled them, that build sian Embassy.
to climax by creating races against time. Fast-forward to 2006 and the James
“Time,” too, that is environment. Bond watch has become so much a part
When are the “scent and smoke and sweat of who and what Our Man is that we no
of a casino” nauseating? The answer, as longer need to see it in order to see it. As
Fleming himself wrote for his 1953 Casino 007 dives under the water in desperate
Royale: “at three in the morning.” effort to rescue Vesper, you have to wonder
Each of the first three EON Produc- what his Seamaster needs to tell him about
tions James Bond movies featured a sig- the time he has left in holding his breath.
nature countdown. Think of Dr No and When Bond asks Felix Leiter at the seedy
you invariably recall hearing the ominous bar where they’re meeting in Quantum of
voiceover announcing a reference to time, Solace, “How long have I got?” don’t tell
“and counting.” In From Russia with Love me you haven’t found your mind pre-condi-
and in Goldfinger, we are shown a close-up tioned and set for a close-up on the face of
of Bond’s Submariner, as if to see through the Planet Ocean when you hear the reply: Photo copyright 2014, 2009 JamesBondWatches.com
and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.
his eyes and thus feel what he feels in “Thirty seconds.”
 THE NATIONAL WATCH & CLOCK MUSEUM is making a concerted effort to
embrace and better tell the story of the history, development and artistry of the wristwatch.
The resources to undertake this effort were made available recently through the generosity
of industry partners like Gallet Watch Group and Hamilton International. The greatest chal-
lenge any Museum faces is making the subject matter relevant to the majority of its visitors
who may know little or nothing at all about the subject. As we looked for a means to engage
the public we investigated a number of potential storylines and, after lengthy discussions
with Dell Deaton of www.jamesbondwatches.com, chose to explore James Bond’s wrist-
watches as a mechanism for telling the story.
There was little question in the Museum’s mind that the story of James Bond’s watches,
and Ian Fleming’s seminal inspiration for those watches, was the perfect way for the
Museum to address wristwatch development in the latter half of the 20th century in a way
that could capture the imagination of our visitors. This realization has led to a multi-year part-
nership between the Museum, Dell Deaton and the Fleming family beginning with an exten-
sive exhibit on Bond watches in 2010 and continuing with the current micro-exhibit being
presented in 2014. The Museum hopes to, in the future, explore wristwatch development
further through the lens of James Bond with the expertise of Mr. Deaton.
For more information on the National Watch & Clock Museum, including visitor information,
visit www.museumoftime.org.

A Rolex Submariner worn in by Timothy Dalton in “Licence to Kill.”

It’s hard to imagine that Ian Fleming himself wouldn’t have chosen the Seiko model SFX003 Memory-
Bank Calendar wristwatch (case number M354-5019) for his gentleman agent in “Moonraker.” In the
mid- to late-1970s, watches such as this both supported and defined the James Bond character.

Moonraker (1979), Roger Moore as Ian Fleming’s James Bond 007, EON Productions.

Photo copyright 2013-2014 JamesBondWatches.com and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

Concurrently, the years since Goldfin-

ger premiered in theaters have often pre-
sented a contrasting image of what we are
to make of James Bond at any time when he
is not wearing his wristwatch.
He is, in a word, symbolically vulnerable.
Think back to the sequence where
James Bond is “killed” in the 1967 You
Only Live Twice—stripped of even his watch
before trap is sprung, machine guns fired.
When Mr. Big has Tee Hee remove the “par-
ticularly handsome” watch from the wrist of
Roger Moore’s outnumbered and immobi-
lized Bond in Live and Let Die, it doesn’t In the latest movie “Skyfall,” James Bond returns to his family home for final confronta-
just build tension for audiences (with a test tion with villain Silva and redemption for MI6 boss, M. Thwarting surveillance, Agent 007
relies upon his vintage 1964 Aston Martin DB5 and Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra reference
of Solitaire’s hopefully remaining powers of 231.10.39.21.03.001 wristwatch, to which this original image pays homage.
clairvoyance despite her secret loss of in-
nocence); it underscores the helplessness of Skyfall (2012), Daniel Craig as Ian Fleming’s James Bond 007, EON Productions.

this James Bond, here, in this place.

In contrast, when George Lazenby’s puts him back on the clock, he is without
007 goes rogue for On Her Majesty’s Secret his iconic blue-dial, blue-bezel Omega
Service, he keeps his watch. So, too, with Seamaster. Then again in Skyfall: While
Timothy Dalton even after his Double-O Daniel Craig’s character somehow manages
status and “license to kill” is revoked. to survive a direct hit from Moneypenny’s
Thus we have all the greater a contrast sniper-rifle, the wristwatch that he’d been
in more recent EON Productions mov- wearing does not.
ies for the twenty-first century. “Product We might also consider moments with-
placement” concerns notwithstanding, the out watches during sexual intimacy. Note
last outing for Pierce Brosnan shows us a for example Bond’s departure from the
James Bond who has lost the last symbol bedroom of Dr. Holly Goodhead in Venice.
of position with British Secret Service: After their obvious romantic interlude,
From the time at which he becomes a hos- James Bond retrieves his watch from the
Photo copyright 2013-2014 JamesBondWatches.
tage in Die Another Day, until his boss M nightstand, then fastens it again to his com and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.
Photo copyright 2014, 2012 JamesBondWatches.
com and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

wrist. With Agent Strawberry Fields (after

Opposite Page:
the movie franchise re-boot), our ever-de-
In early 2010, David Chalmers, Paul fiant gentleman spy is shown without his
Gavin, and Dell Deaton joined together watch as he begins to seduce her (again).
in a collaboration that finally solved the
mystery of just which piece was worn Thus we have here the foundation for
by Bond during the pre-title sequence formal discussion of “non-watches” as a
on Gibraltar: A PVD Night-Dive model
980.031 wristwatch by Heuer Time Ltd.
sort of James Bond watch “brand” in their
own right.
The Living Daylights (1987), Timothy And with that, some will be inclined to
Dalton as Ian Fleming’s James Bond
007, EON Productions. suggest that we move on from a sampling of
This Seiko two-tone model SPD094 in a
6923-8080 case uniquely appoints Bond in his examples, to a definitive list of all appear-
undercover disguise as James St. John Smythe. ances. Or, rather, non-appearances.
Working exclusively with Mark Mills of Seiko Others will look for patterns, debate
UK, Dell Deaton was first to definitively identify
all eight consumer watches supplied to the discrepancies by positing pairings of simi-
last five movies starring Roger Moore, 1977 lar circumstances. “Why did Bond wear his
through 1985.
wristwatch to bed with Miss Taro, but not
A View to a Kill (1985), Roger Moore as Ian wear any watch at all to bed with Tiffany
Fleming’s James Bond 007, EON Productions. Case?”
“Where?” and “How often?” become
“should”—invitations to argue.
 In 1981, James Bond wore one of the most
advanced technical diver’s watches of its time
in the Seiko model S60583 (case number 7549-
7009). “For Your Eyes Only” proved the perfect
showcase for this wristwatch as it supported
Agent 007 on his salvage mission to the St.
George’s spy ship wreck.

For Your Eyes Only (1981), Roger Moore as Ian

Fleming’s James Bond 007, EON Productions

Photo copyright 2014, 2010 JamesBondWatches.com

and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

What should different film directors

have done with parallels across admittedly
different points in time?
At the outset of this article, I note that
there are currently twenty-nine “distinct-
ly different” James Bond watch models.
Counting again (and in some cases, again
and again) those several models that make
return appearances, the grand total swells
to forty, from Dr. No to Skyfall, and includ-
ing the 1967 Casino Royale and 1983 Nev-
er Say Never Again timekeepers. Among
the first five movies starring Sean Connery,
Agent 007 wears the Gruen Precision dress
watch during four of them; exactly the same
number of times in the exact same movies
in which he wears the Rolex Submariner.
You Only Live Twice marks the first
motion picture in the series to have only one
Bond watch: That watch was the Gruen.
Photo copyright 2014, 2010 JamesBondWatches.

But when Roger Moore included a

Seiko diver’s watch among an unmatched
com and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

total of three Bond watches for A View to

a Kill, he began a pattern that continues
to this day. Beginning in 1985, and con-
tinuing through every movie since, James
Bond invariably puts on at least one diver’s
watch per film. In fact, for seven out of
the last eight EON Production 007 movies,
Bond is shown to have exclusively chosen
diver’s watches. Twice, this has even meant
 Pierce Brosnan made James Bond his own wearing
the only quartz Seamaster to date, a reference
changing one diver’s watch for another 2541.80 Omega 300-meter diver’s watch. This
first appearance for the brand in “GoldenEye,”
diver’s watch—as took place in The Living 1995, also marks the stand-alone instance when
Daylights (TAG Heuer) and the 2006 Ca- a 007 movie watch from Omega is not worn on
its original band. This original image pays tribute
sino Royale (Omega). Within our grand to-
to that James Bond watch as it appeared in the
tal of forty James Bond watches across the “GoldenEye” pre-title, where Agents 006 and 007
twenty-five films that I cite above, then, at participated in a botched mission at the Archangel
chemical weapons facility in Siberia.
least half have been diver’s models.
So—from having chosen a dress watch GoldenEye (1995), Pierce Brosnan as Ian Fleming’s
James Bond 007, EON Productions.
half the time in the beginning of the movie
series, we have arrived today at a complete
shut-out for that style.
Given such precedent, is it possible
that we’ll see James Bond as having per-
manently transitioned to no watch at all by
some time before the next fifty years have
come and gone?
Or do you think maybe a suggestion
that we “go back to the original Fleming”
would bring things any closer to consensus
in making predictions about the future? In
his 1959 novel Goldfinger, Ian Fleming
wrote the following for a time where James
Bond found himself without his timekeep-
er: “Oddjob, I want ... my own watch or
another one as good as mine.” So there’s
a direct quote from Fleming on how James
Bond feels without a watch on his wrist. On Copyright 2014, 2011 JamesBondWatches.com
top of that, we also know that Ian Fleming and Dell Deaton, All Rights Reserved.

was certain to have Bond wear his watch

to bed with Ruby in Chapter 14 of On Her
Majesty’s Secret Service.
“The End”?
Don’t bet on it. a

“Dell Deaton is an internationally recognized

authority on Ian Fleming and James Bond
watches. More than a third of all Bond movie
watches have been identified through his
original research. His signature find remains
that of the actual Rolex used by Ian Fleming
himself as the only real-world literary James
Bond wristwatch. Deaton is now curator of
the 2014 James Bond Watch Exhibit at the
National Watch & Clock Museum—the latest
in an educational collaboration that is now in
its seventh year.”

“JamesBondWatches.com was created by

Dell Deaton. It is the peerless resource for
independent, documented, and trusted
information on this subject.”
A M ERI CAN
At Last, Modern Tudor Returns to the USA
By Keith Flamer
 Tudor’s U.S. President, Russell Kelly (left)
stands outside of retailer Wempe with the
store’s president, Ruediger Albers.

rebranding, Tudor is in the midst of a high-

profile comeback that arrives with fanfare
(and motorcycles!).
Watch launches are usually make or
break in the United States. Few brands
stand a puncher’s chance on the first at-
tempt, let alone a second opportunity. But
Tudor is no newcomer to the watch game,
nor the United States. It has a pedigree
and Rolex’s formidable resource muscle
behind it.
America loves comebacks. We have
witnessed our share over the years: boxer
Muhammad Ali regained the heavyweight
championship after a 3-year exile from the
sport; golfer Ben Hogan won the U.S. Open
16-months after a near-fatal car accident;
and musicians Simon & Garfunkel reunit-
ed for a Central Park concert before half a
million people. So why not Tudor?

I TUDOR IS RECOMMITTING ITSELF TO THE AMERICAN

t’s a familiar, albeit unfair scenario—
the offspring of an extremely success-
ful parent struggles to find their own DREAM BY RELAUNCHING THE BRAND WITH A NEW,
identity. Think Prince Charles, Julian Len- DISTINCTIVE PERSONALITY AND A HIGH LEVEL OF
non and Robert Todd Lincoln. Their iconic
parents’ legend will forever overshadow INDEPENCE IN ITS DESIGN.
them no matter their accomplishments.
However, that doesn’t mean success is
unattainable. Tudor Watch Company has
been chasing its own legacy since 1946, Woods, whose popularity and celebrity Second acts are dramatic and compel-
when Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf offi- reached its zenith following a dominant ling, often coming after some sort of adver-
cially spun off the brand as a quality watch win at The Master’s tournament. This rela- sity. Many have been written off to history
alternative at a moderate price. Tudor ac- tionship, from 1997 to 2002, spawned the but the most resilient persevere and enjoy
tually has a rich heritage but it still draws famous “Tiger Tudor” watch. a successful sequel. In second acts, repu-
inevitable comparisons to parent company But not long after that contract ex- tations are tested, respect is regained and
Rolex (likely the most successful luxury pired, Tudor (perhaps overshadowed success is sweeter.
watch company of all time). And therein again) packed its bags and left the United Tudor is recommitting itself to the
lies one challenge. How will Tudor break States for a soul-searching trip back to American dream by relaunching the brand
out and free itself from unrealistic expecta- the drawing board. Criticism over quartz with a new distinctive personality and a
tions this time? watch launches could not have been part high level of independence in its design,
In the 1990s, in what can be called of Wilsdorf’s vision either. So Tudor re- manufacturing and communication. This
precise timing, Tudor hitched much of turned home to Geneva to find itself. Now, time, Tudor will accomplish success via a
its success to a supernova—golfer Tiger after a long hiatus (well over a decade) and more diversified mechanical collection.
 The strength of any collection rests so good. Consumers are seeing a more vi- sea instruments thanks in part to the ex-
on its design integrity. And here, Tudor brant line that doesn’t merely rely on past ploits of oceanographer Jacques Cousteau.
must toe a fine line. It taps into Rolex’s success. Tudor is racing fast forward, but in Unsubmerged from Tudor’s past, this
mechanical expertise without becoming a the United States, it was nearly forgotten. “long-buried hidden treasure” rises to the
mini-Rolex. The brand’s latest models are So the hiatus requires a reintroduction to surface in modern form: a contemporary 41
characterized by style, strength, authen- the line’s more popular timepieces. mm steel case with slender, elongated lugs
ticity and performance, featuring watches The Pelagos, a 42 mm, self-winding surrounded by a brilliant burgundy ratch-
ranging from $2,100 to $6,000 (the core of mechanical deep diver watch, binds Tudor eted bezel and elegant domed sapphire
which retails from $3,000 to $5,000). and its active wearers to the wide-open crystal that gives the timepiece an ideal
Much of the Tudor collection pays ocean. Water resistant to 500 meters (1647 three-dimensional sightline depth over a
homage to the brand’s heritage via dis- feet), Pelagos is a deep-sea instrument black dial with luminescent markers for
tinctive retro-chic styling reinterpreted constructed exclusively of lightweight better legibility underwater. Water resistant
with bold design, futuristic materials, and titanium with a stylish satin-finish sheen. to 200 meters and a 2824 self-winding me-
a variety of movements—including chro- Tudor’s Heritage Chrono Blue chronograph chanical movement, pink gold hands nod
nographs and unique alarm functions that features a distinctive blue, gray and orange nostalgically to the Heritage Black Bay’s
are all mechanical, automatic and 100% dial that’s inspired by its iconic 1973 vintage spirit.
Swiss made. Also, Tudor injects new life “Montecarlo” chronograph. This watch won the Revival Prize at
into the line via modern elements like Meanwhile the Heritage Black Bay the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de
high-tech ceramics and racing colors. draws inspiration from the best diver models Genève in 2013—a testament to Tudors of
After positive Baselword buzz, so far dating back to 1954, a golden era for deep- today and yesterday. As Tudor states in its
Opposite page: The Tudor Pelagos
Right and below: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay

This coincided with Tudor’s timing dream motorcycle “throbbing with power
partnership with Italian motorcycle and feel)” that they collaborated on a one-
manufacturer Ducati, a stalwart of of-a-kind Diavel carbon motorcycle in
the MotoGP World Championship. black matte with signature red highlights.
Tudor and Ducati’s strong alliance Apparently, the only way to slow down this
was fashionably executed with a alliance is after the race is over.
campaign, “the legend continues.” Tudor commemorative Fastrider chronograph Finally back in the United States,
has found its way. (with red and black racing colors on the Tudor’s race for its identity and legend is
Flashbacks to Tudor’s rich heritage dial and fabric strap) that looks ready to back on track. The brand needn’t compete
doesn’t mean the brakes are on. The brand accelerate from the wrist. Naturally, the en- with Rolex at all, despite the comparisons.
is still racing toward the future at a fast and tire Fastrider collection is designed to mea- It just needs be its authentic self. This
furious pace via modern timepieces (which sure small periods of time—as required in reality was finally embraced by Prince
even Wilsdorf couldn’t have imagined in high-speed racing. Charles (who owns a successful brand of
his day). The Fastrider Black Shield line adds tea), Julian Lennon (who had several top 10
In 2011, Tudor unveiled Fastrider, a more speed and performance to Tudor’s billboard hits), and Robert Todd Lincoln
modern series of sporty chronographs with line with clandestine high-tech matte black (who became U.S. Secretary of War and a
a sleek, bevelled case and a PVD-coated ceramic cases and fiery luminescence. So wealthy railroad CEO). That’s a success in
shield over the date corrector—both de- impressed were Tudor and Ducati with anyone’s book. It’s only a matter of time for
sign nods to the world of motorcycles. this watch line (which they compared to a Tudor—again. a
 By Jonathan Bues

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best-known design, the ingenious Reverso, finds

renewed inspiration from its origins as a polo watch
 ust about anyone familiar the line that has produced one of the most has arrived, again on a handmade brown
with high-end collectible written-about tribute watches of the past strap crafted by the makers the world’s best
watches knows the name five years. I am of course referring to the polo boots, and again limited to 100 pieces.
Reverso. Over the years, Grand Reverso Ultra Thin 1931, and more However, whereas the first two came in steel,
this watch, invented expressly for polo specifically to the limited edition versions the latest Grand Reverso Ultra Thin 1931
players in the early 1900s, has become in of this watch that have been presented sports an elegant 18-karat rose gold case
many a collector’s eyes the definitive non- with handmade horse-leather straps from and a chocolate dial with a depth and rich-
round dress watch, rivaled only by Carti- Argentine polo boot maker Casa Fagliano. ness to match the watch’s strap and precious
er’s Tank. It is eminently tasteful, and its Over the last few years, two stainless metal case. With its brown dial, the latest
namesake reversible case just begs to be steel limited editions have appeared sport- Casa Fagliano limited edition also happens
engraved, which obviously makes the Re- ing Casa Fagliano straps and authentically to be the third colored Reverso dial in recent
verso a popular watch for gifting and mark- vintage-looking black dials. The first edi- time, the other two being a Grand Reverso
ing special occasions. (Jaeger-LeCoultre tion arrived on a handmade brown strap. Ultra Thin 1931 in red and a Reverso Duo-
will engrave Reversos on request and has The second came on black. An instant hit, face in blue enamel, which was available as
even established personalization program these watches not only tied the Reverso a boutique-exclusive edition equipped with
on its website, where collectors can request back to the elegance of the sport for which a black Casa Fagliano strap.
to add intitials, text, family crests or other it was created, they came with exclusive Evoking the Art Deco period of de-
custom designs to their own Reverso.) straps that many collectors wanted but only sign, the new pink gold Reverso has a dial
The Reverso is the face of Jaeger- 200 could have, between the two versions. that recalls a steel Reverso made decades
LeCoultre. It is the brand’s icon. And it is Now, a third edition of this timepiece ago, also with a chocolate dial. Its minutes
 chapter, hour markers and subsidiary seconds
all appear as if they were made more than 80
years ago. Inside, however, is a modern, manu-
ally wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 822/2,
conceived, crafted, decorated and assembled
entirely within the walls of the manufacture.
The pink gold case protecting this move-
ment is of the traditional Reverso style, measur-
ing 46.8 mm long, 27.4 mm wide, and 7.3 mm
thick. As a testament to the quality of its con-
struction and durability, the watch’s caseback
is engraved with the designation “1000 Hours
Control,” referencing Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strictly
enforced proprietary quality control process.
Under the rules of 1000 Hours Control, tech-
nicians test and monitor a fully cased watch in
order to detect any potential problems before it
is sent to a boutique or retailer.
The pink gold Grand Reverso Ultra Thin
1931 launched officially at SIHH in January. a

Evoking the Art Deco

period of design, the
new pink gold reverso
has a dial that recalls
a steel Reverso made
decades aco, also with a
chocolate dial.
DIALED
N
DeWitt crafts exceptional dials, but the high
luxury brand is more than a pretty face

By Keith Flamer
B
rand recognition is a form of ce-
lebrity—powerful and potentially
tentially
fleeting—as the nextt popular
brand always lies in wait. Lasting
asting lega-
cies are earned, based on performance,
mechanical integrity and aesthetic beauty.
That is true star power. With that in mind,
DeWitt is ready for its closeup.
DeWitt may nott be a household name
but for consumers ers with discriminating
taste, few Swiss watches are as impressive
lately. As a totally
ally independent watch man-
ufacturer, including
cluding movements and dials,
the brand is built to last. From its modern,
5,000-square-meter factory ctory in Meyrin,
Switzerland, DeWitt is producinging a diverse
range of luxurious timepieces deservingving of
accolades and prominent wrists. And it all ll
starts with exceptional dials.
In 2003, Jérôme de Witt (inspired by
his love of nature and vintage cars) created
the DeWitt brand to reflect his vision of
watchmaking and create some of the most
elaborate complications respecting the best as the Nebula and Full Moon watches in a speedometer or the bridge of a ship.
s On
watchmakers’ tradition. DeWitt’s manufac- a future issue). Not every dial can be a the dial’s lower section, stripes oof metallic
ture now houses production, design, qual- masterpiece, but DeWitt expertly reimag- appliqués against a wood color background
ity control, and research and development ines the dial like a painter or sculptor. Its create
te a geometrical motif that
th highlights
which offers total freedom to channel its exquisite watch dials are reminiscent of the smalll seconds counter at 6 o’clock. On
ideas and haute horlogerie creations. yesterday’s Swiss watchmaking forefathers, the curved 42mm m steel case,
c polished and
Complications are very desirable to as the brand assumes a leadership position satin-finished surfaces contrast with the
consumers today. With greater frequency, to preserve this centuries-old dial making black PVD to reinforce graphic and optical
brands are squeezing functions (tourbil- tradition. But DeWitt is more than just a effects. High quality finishing continues on
lions, transparent windows, chronograph pretty face. the case back which is stamped with Clous
sub dials, power reserve indicators) on, DeWitt’s Furtive collection (launched de Paris decoration and a medallion em-
around and beneath the dial face. But this in 2013) is a prime example, proving com- blazoned with the DeWitt logo. A “W” is
functional frenzy could be at the expense of plications aren’t the only way to dress up a engraved on the crown.
more aesthetic beauty. Are luxury brands dial. The Automatic Petite Seconde (Small If DeWitt hasn’t crossed your radar,
taking dials for granted? Not DeWitt. Seconds) model is among the latest DeWitt it will. It doesn’t possess the fame of some
DeWitt embraces superior complica- watches showcasing exceptional watch- brands, but the luxury brand is turning
tions, but gives dials a clean slate. Its phi- making and dial design. heads and generating buzz—on both first
losophy proves dials are canvasses begging On the upper part of the dial, a dis- impression and further inspection. All in-
to be transformed into artistic masterpieces creet black sunray motif complements the dications point upward—for DeWitt is a
(for proof, follow its 2014 collections such silvered index appliqués, which suggest rising star. Catch it if you can. a
 By Keith Flamer

BREVA’S limited-edition Génie watches

are like Doppler Radar on the wrist.
 The Breva Génie 1

B
reva’s Génie 01 possesses a pro-
phetic aura. First, its “Génie”
moniker suggests something magi-
cal. The “01” hints sequel models may be
on the horizon. And its practical weather
forecasting functions arrive in the nick of François Mojon (Chronode) the proprietary sure icons forecast likely future weather
time, as unpredictable weather patterns movement is visible through the open dial conditions. An altimeter scale that can
continue to batter all regions of the United and the transparent display case back. Gé- measure altitude from -300 to 5300 meters
States season after season. Since that’s the nie 01 is a limited edition of 55 pieces in arcs the top perimeter of the main dial.
case, the Génie 01 should be on call as white gold and 55 pieces in pink gold. A 65-hour power-reserve indicator
much as any American meteorologist. The Breva Génie 01 displays the alti- graces an engraved compass rose at 4
The Breva Génie 01 made a splash tude, remaining mainspring power, and the o’clock. At 5 o’clock, Breva stacks two
in Geneva as a watch that forecasts the barometer’s weather forecasting functional- extremely sensitive anaerobic capsules (one
weather. But it’s not a gimmicky timepiece ity. Medium and small sub-dials indicate of which is visible) to measure the slightest
at all. It’s a rare and genuine mechanical each function. Hours and minutes are dis- changes in surrounding air pressure. This
curiosity. Exclusive to Breva, the Génie played on a semi-transparent smoky brown arms the watch with its unique forecasting
01 is touted as the world’s first wristwatch sapphire dial at 8 o’clock with the small capability. The barometric display ranges
with time, altimeter, barometer and power seconds on a miniature sub-dial below 12 between 973 and 1053 hectopascals (hPa).
reserve driven by a fully mechanical move- o’clock. On a second semi-transparent sub- This barometric functionality was
ment. Developed by watchmaker Jean- dial at 2 o’clock, graphic barometric pres- inspired by Evangelista Toricelli (a student
of Galileo Galilei), who invented the ba-
rometer in 1643. With similar spirit, Breva
crafted the anaerobic capsules of memory
metal (a Breva patent invention), which is
lighter and stronger than aluminum with
twice the flexibility as steel.
Three dual-purpose, chevron-en- lation between altitude and air pressure. Swiss-made proprietary movement (415
graved crowns power the complex proprie- The Breva Génie 01’s finished movement components) by Mojon (Chronode). The
tary Breva movement. The 9 o’clock crown is visible through a sapphire crystal, which Breva Génie 02 Air has a similar design
sets the time and winds the watch. The 2 reveals a vibrant oscillating balance wheel (multi-sub-dials, altimeter arc indicator,
o’clock crown adjusts the barometric pres- and compass roses rotating on the cap of air pressure measuring anaerobic cap-
sure scale while an inner pusher adjusts the mainspring barrel. sules) as Génie 01 but with a different
the altitude indicator position. execution. The Breva Génie 02 Air Watch
The 4 o’clock crown controls a lock- BREVA GÉNIE 02 AIR WATCH features a high-precision arm which re-
ing ring that rotates 90 degrees to lock As expected, hot on the heels of the Breva lays the air pressure to the altimeter which
or unlock an air valve. In the unlocked Génie 01 comes its spinoff sequel—the displays altitudes up to 5,000 meters (or
position, the valve opens and accepts small Breva Génie 02 Air Watch, which was 16,400 feet)—perfect if you’re climbing
amounts of air to equalize air pressure in- announced at press time. The Breva Gé- Mount Blackburn in Alaska.
side the case with exterior air pressure. A nie 02 Air Watch combines sophistication Engraved around the perimeter of the
Teflon membrane filters moisture from the of mechanical craftsmanship with a high- transparent case back, the movement is
air before it enters the movement. A red performance altimeter. Breva considers it framed by the code names of many of the
indicator on the dial indicates when the the perfect companion for high altitude en- world’s airports, along with their altitudes
valve is sealed. thusiasts such as pilots, skiers, mountain above sea level: GVA-430m, HND-6m;
Because altitude affects air pressure climbers, skydivers, paragliders, et al. SYD-9m; JFK/LHR-24m; SIN-7m; DXB-
and weather, Breva placed a circular scale Breva’s Génie 02 Air Watch show- 19m; HKG-9m; GYD-3m; CDG-119m;
on the case back that displays the corre- cases another superbly-finished, 100% MIA-2m. The Génie 02 Air is a limited
edition collection of 55 pieces in titanium, The name ‘Breva’ is inspired by ‘La water vapor that forms white fluffy clouds.
available with calibrations in either me- Breva,’ a warm southern wind that contrib- However, if the air pressure is low enough,
ters or feet. It retails for approximately utes to the mild microclimate around Lake the winds will be stronger so the incoming
$132,000. Como. While the Breva name translates air will rise even higher where the lower
Breva’s unique timepieces are the well to the United States, the mild micro- temperature of the air can no longer sup-
brainchild of Vincent Dupontreué, a climates have escaped America recently. port denser water molecules, so they pre-
business prodigy who began making According to Breva, predicting the cipitate into rain, snow or even freeze as
and selling bracelets on the beaches of weather isn’t quite that simple because air hail. In extreme cases, when the air pres-
Corsica at age 11, and building and selling pressure alone doesn’t forecast the weather sure drops very low, massive amounts of air
skateboard ramps at age 13. After stints in (knowing the air pressure just tells you what are forced upwards so fast that they spin to
fashion, and an MBA, he launched his own the weather is now, not what’s coming). The form whirlwinds, tornadoes, cyclones and
high-end Swiss watch brand in 2010 (at age change in air pressure is the prime predic- hurricanes—which explains some recent
33). He imagined a mechanical timepiece tor of weather that’s coming. weather patterns in the United States.
that forecasts weather while relaxing on In areas of relatively low pressure, air So it appears that Breva Génie 01 and
Lake Como in northern Italy. generally rises up, cools and condense into the Breva Génie 02 Air Watch will work
much harder in the harsher United States
elements. Luckily, these watches are
equipped to handle the pressure of high
expectations. They may not be as precise
Vincent Dupontreué
as Doppler Radar but they are certainly
more reliable than the untrained eye or the
aching arthritic knee (which also responds
to barometric pressure changes). At the
very least, Breva’s Genie 01 and Génie 02
Air also offers accurate time.
If only Breva’s forecasting watches
could help us understand what a polar
vortex is. Perhaps only a future Breva
Génie 03 could explain this inexplicable
phenomenon. a
 100 Years
of Seiko
Watches
Kintaro Hattori, the man who started the clock repair shop
that became Seiko, was both lucky and smart.
By Michael Clerizo

Left: Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori.

Right: An early Seiko shop.

transfer their skills to constructing western

style timepieces. Clocks and watches from
Europe and the USA flooded into Japan.
At seventeen, Kintaro Hattori com-
pleted his clock-making apprenticeship
and realized that the demand to service and
repair western horological products would
boom. So, he set up a clock repair work-
shop in his own home. In 1881 he founded
the eponymous K. Hattori, a company that
fixed, imported and sold clocks.
Eleven prosperous years later, in
1892, Hattori purchased an empty Tokyo

L
ucky to be born in 1860 during of many crafts, adapted what they learned factory, which became the headquarters of
the Bakumatsu period, when Ja- to produce clocks that kept Japanese time, his new venture Seikosha a manufacturer
pan ended two and a half centu- based on the lunar year, with the day di- of clocks and pocket watches, and from
ries of extreme isolationism and opened its vided into hours of varying length depend- 1913 wristwatches. (The Japanese word
doors to the world. ing on the season. seiko means exquisite, minute or success
And, smart to see business opportu- In 1872 the government decreed a and sha means house.)
nities in the cultural and commercial sea shift to the western solar year with standard The next important event in Hattori’s
changes that followed. twenty-four hour days. An immediate busy life and Seiko’s history occurred in
In 1600 European missionaries to Ja- effect of the conversion: 3 December 1872 1899, the year of his first trip to Switzer-
pan established a school to teach Western became 1 January 1873. Another upshot: land and the USA. At the time clock and
arts and sciences, including horology, in traditional Japanese clocks became watchmaking in Switzerland involved
Nagasaki. The Japanese, already masters obsolete. Clock makers struggled to innumerable small companies supplying
components and services to hundreds of game: ‘Seikosha’s alarm clock and pocket The 63-year-old Hattori found an undam-
larger companies that assembled and sold watch manufacturing ventures ran at a loss aged barracks building where he gathered
the final products. In America factories like in their early days, subsidised by the prof- his surviving employees and continued pro-
Elgin and Waltham mass-produced compo- its from wall clock production. Alarm clock duction. Then in an act that anticipated the
nents and the finished products under one production moved into the black after a few customer care ethos of our time he replaced
roof. Hattori knew the Swiss infrastructure years and then increased production and with new watches the 1,500 watches left for
could not be recreated in Japan. Instead sales subsidised the production of pocket repair and ruined by the earthquake and
he imported some machinery and, with his watches, which had been unprofitable for subsequent fire. The next year, 1924 saw the
staff, designed and built more. Seikosha 15 years. The pocket watch department first ever wristwatch with Seiko on the dial.
began emulating the American system. only began contributing to profits for the In keeping with the spirit of the times
Hattori’s plans led to explosive growth, but first time in 1911.’ and Japanese tradition, the enterprise was
it wasn’t only openness to foreign influence He also knew how to overcome catastro- a family affair. Hattori’s mother helped
that ensured the company’s early success. phes. On 1 September 1923, an earthquake run the Seikosha factory and his two sons-
As John Goodall explains in his book Seiko: ravaged the Tokyo area, destroying the Sei- in-law were key figures in the company’s
A Journey In Time, Hattori played the long kosha building and killing many employees. management.
Historical Seiko timepieces, including a
wall-mounted clock, a pocket watch, and
the Astron, the world’s first wristwatch
regulated by a quartz crystal.
Above: A Seiko watchmaker at work.

Right: A Seiko Kinetic timepiece, which transforms a

wearer’s movement into precision quartz timekeeping.

Kintaro Hattori continued to guide turing of wristwatches restarted in 1946. competitions. The first horological contest
Seikosha until his death at the age of By 1948 two new models appeared, the showed the dire state of the watchmaking in
seventy-four in 1934. In his official portrait, Super, with a center seconds hand and the Japan; 62 of 180 competing watches failed to
a photograph taken a few years before his Extra Flat with a seconds subdial at six complete the contest. For Seiko improvement
death, Hattori has the solid, steady look of o’clock. Design and complications, the for- took time. By 1958 The Marvel, launched two
a watchmaker. He also bursts with energy, mer an afterthought, the latter non-existent years earlier, dominated the trials, winning
his gaze saying get this done so I can get in the immediate post-war years, by 1953 every position from first to ninth. Emboldened
back to work. were becoming more important. The Auto- by success, Seiko decided in 1963 to enter
Resilience, energy, patience, open- Dator featured a convex outer dial with a competitions in Neuchatel, Switzerland.
ness to the new, a concern for customers, central date subdial. Watches from two Seiko factories competed
quality and appreciating the benefits of In the immediate aftermath of WW2, and placed 144th and 153rd. Disappointed
competition are the legacy of the founder the Japanese government’s main concern but not despairing Seiko embarked on a
to his heirs, a legacy they needed. was reviving industry and improving the crash accuracy improvement program and
Overcoming the devastation of WW2 quality of products. To achieve the second returned to Neuchatel in 1968. This time
required resilience and energy. Manufac- goal the government instituted a series of the watch submitted bested the results of the
 Models from the Grand Seiko line of
high end, collectible timepieces.

THE BEST WAY TO SUM UP SPRING

DRIVE IS AS A MECHANICAL
WATCH THAT WORKS WITHOUT
AN ESCAPEMENT AND A QUARTZ
WATCH THAT RUNS WITHOUT
A BATTERY.

Swiss winning watch of 1967. Soon after, the

prestigious competition was cancelled.
At the Geneva Observatory competi-
tion the same year the Swiss monopolized
the gold, silver and bronze positions but
Seiko won every place from fourth to tenth.
While the excellent showing did not im-
mediately boost Seiko’s sales, they did
enhance the confidence of the R&D and
technical teams.
The spirits of everyone at Seiko were
about to improve because of something else
R&D accomplished.
On 25 December 1969, Seiko launched
the world’s first quartz watch, the Astron,
and wrote an indelible chapter in the his-
tory of timekeeping. A diabolic chapter
for lovers of mechanical timepieces, and
yet the history of horology proves there is
always room for another invention and as
sales proved, there was more than enough
room for the quartz watch.
 A Grand Seiko Spring Drive chronograph

Today, in the midst of a seemingly

unstoppable mechanical watch revival it is
easy to denigrate quartz watches. But, like
many other inventions the quartz watch has
a long lineage. The story started in 1880,
when Pierre Curie discovered that when
subjected to pressure certain crystals gener-
ate electricity. Quartz timekeepers have also
played a part in other inventions, LCDs and
LEDs to name two. Most importantly, the
story of the development of quartz watches,
which started at Seiko in the 1950s, says
something about human beings; we love a
quest. The Astron was the culmination of a
quest for greater accuracy.

AND THE QUEST DIDN’T

END THERE.
Quartz watches have an inherent weak-
ness, their battery. A dead battery stops a
quartz watch and damages the environment
when discarded. Seiko’s solution was a self-
winding mechanism to replace the battery.
Developing the Seiko Kinetic self-
winding system for quartz watches required
three years (1983 – 1986) to produce a
prototype that the company introduced to
the world at Basel World. The first watch,
the A.G.S., for automatic generating In 1977, engineers at Seiko concluded winding Spring Drive movement appeared
system, appeared two years later. that a mechanical watch could function in 2004.
Like an automatic winding system on without an escapement. By 1999 the Spring The best way to sum up Spring Drive
a mechanical watch, the Kinetic system Drive, product of 21 years of work, was is as a mechanical watch that works with-
starts with a rotor that revolves as the wear- introduced at Basel. The first Spring Drive out an escapement and a quartz watch that
er’s wrist moves. A gear train amplifies the was manually wound. As the mainspring runs without a battery.
speed of rotation and spins a micro-rotor unwinds it powers a gear train that controls If it seems that the story of Seiko is
that generates a magnetic charge, which the hands of a the watch. The same gear one of a journey away from the company’s
is changed into electricity by a coil block. train also powers a rotor that pushes roots in mechanical timepieces the truth
The generated electricity is then stored in electric impulses to a quartz crystal, which is more complicated. Seiko still produces
a rechargeable cell. The stored electricity emits what is known as a reference timing Grand Seiko watches that are completely
powers the watch. signal. An integrated circuit calculates the mechanical.
Another Seiko quest turned into one difference between the signal and the rate of Kintaro Hattori was named for a
of the longest in commercial horological the mainspring unwinding. The integrated popular figure from Japanese folklore who
history. A quest that sought ‘the everlast- circuit then uses an electromagnetic possessed great strength and boundless
ing watch’ and ended with two words: braking system to regulate the speed at energy. The same is true of the company
Spring Drive. which the spring unwinds. The first self- he founded. a
Clockwise from top left: The first ever Grand Seiko timpiece
from 1960, an early Grand Seiko Spring Drive chronograph,
Models
the high-end watch studio in Shiojiri Japan.from the Grand Seiko line of
high end, collectible timepieces.
 AQUADIVE
Revival of a classic

By Steve Lundin

T
ruly iconic products never really
disappear from the marketplace,
their brand essence and memory
remains powerful regardless of their avail-
ability. Watches bearing the Aquadive
nameplate and distinctive “Caribbean”
fish logo were absent from the market for
over twenty years and have returned with
as much vigor as they commanded in their
heyday. Aquadive is in the midst of a sec-
ond act, in a much more competitive mar-
ketplace, with products that are propelling
the new company to the forefront of the
dive watch and collecting community.
 Several of the unique models that
defined the line are being updated and
reissued today, providing the consumer and
collector with the best of the classic style,
manufactured to higher standards than
virtually any other watch on the market.
The story behind the company’s original
iteration is critical to understanding their
current mission: producing real Swiss- Early Aquadive watches were distribut- ered a backhanded compliment, vintage
made dive tools that capture the spirit and ed in the U.S. by N.C.C. Sales of Los Ange- Aquadive model 709 watches have become
quality of the early days of dive watches. les, California. The watches were designed the darling of the counterfeit community.
in the U.S. and Switzerland, then manufac- On April 16, 1968, a U.S. patent (337
BIRTH: EARLY 1960’S tured in Switzerland. Aquadive produced 78 60) was filed for a watch that would
During the burgeoning days of recreation- many models that were typically appointed come to be known as one of the most ad-
al diving in the middle 1960’s and early with 17-to-21-jewel Swiss automatic move- vanced diving instruments available. How-
1970’s, Aquadive watches were one of the ments, 42mm stainless steel cases water re- ever, it wasn’t until 1973 that this patent
few brands accepted as professional grade sistant to 1000 meters, and their own utterly would appear in the innovative Aquadive
by the global diving community. To this day unique look. Aquadive watches sported Model 50 “Time Depth.” The Model 50
the company has maintained a stylistic and colorful unidirectional bezels and dials in- featured an oil-filled bourdon tube depth
utilitarian link with its 50-plus-year-old set within a deep stainless steel case. Their gauge, accurate to 200 feet, a radically new
roots. Aquadive watches were distinguished appearance mirrored that of a pressurized look and a gee-whiz electronic movement.
in the market by a unique feature set that gauge. The company produced models for The electronic movement was supplied by
included patents, large cases, reliability, men and women. Many vintage models can ESA and drew power from a battery that
unparalleled utility, true Swiss manufactur- be found on eBay and auction sites like then energized a balance wheel, emulating
ing and a quintessential period style. watchrecon.com. In what could be consid- the stored energy of the mainspring in a
 The founders of the new Aquadive
company deemed it was critical to maintain
standards that met or exceeded the other
entrants in the market. Their ultimate goal
Left: the Bathyscaphe 3000 was to produce a watch that truly repre-
Above right: Vintage Aquadive
watches from 1972 sented what “Swiss made” used to mean.
They appointed an award-winning U.S.
designer and built a manufacturing facility
that would allow them to develop watches
that were pure European, from form to fea-
tures to function.
Every component of the new Aquadive
mechanical watch. Original dial treatments REBIRTH: 2012 watches is manufactured in Europe, com-
were orange and gray. The watch was dis- As early as 2010 several major Swiss bining Swiss watchmaking and German
tributed under the Rotary brand name in manufactures began releasing updated craftsmanship. The cases are an alloy of
other markets. versions of their classic watch 1960’s-70’s surgical grade German steel that is CNC
The Model 50 was supported in the dive watches. The Omega Seamaster machined and hand-finished in Germany.
United States with an advertising campaign Ploprof, Tudor heritage Black Bay and Aquadive ignored the common approach
that involved astronaut Scott Carpenter, Longines Legend Diver are a few of the of hot stamping in favor of more expensive
who had recently become a recognized examples of reissued watches that received CNC machining for their cases and bezels.
aquanaut through his association with incredible market response. These in turn Hot stamping causes stainless steel to lose
SEALAB. Given its stunning looks, spurred independent brand knock-offs scratch resistance and luster.
endorsements and innovative features the manufactured with an amalgam of Euro- Aquadive watches are powered by
Model 50 was an instant success. It was pean and Asian parts and cases. There was genuine Swiss made ETA movements, the
relaunched in 1975 with a new dial colors clearly interest in these types of products. dials are Swiss made and the bezels and
including black and blue. Despite market A group of forward-thinking European hands are manufactured in Europe. Aqua-
success and a strong innovative push, the investors realized that one major brand had dive straps are made in Italy and bracelets
brand disappeared from the market in the the necessary equity to warrant a place at made in Germany. Even the springbars are
late 1980’s. this storied table: Aquadive. made in Switzerland. Unlike many watches
Model 50
Stainless Steel case

• Uni-directional Stainless Steel 60 click bezel

• Tritium luminescent hands, hour markers
and bezel
• Mineral glass
• Crown: screw down with o-ring
• Electronic ESA 1954 movement with 13 jewels
• Water resistant to 100 meters (330 ft.)
• Depth Measurement to 60 meters (200 ft.)
• Width: 46mm
• Width: 51mm including crown
• Length: 53mm
• Weight: 125g (head only)
• Thickness: 18mm
• Crystal/Dial width: 32.4mm
• Bezel width: 45.5mm
• Lug width: 24mm

Aquadive cases are machined

in Germany from solid pieces of
surgical-grade stainless steel.
branded “Swiss made,” which, unfortunate-
ly is code for “Swiss assembled of Asian
parts,” Aquadive watches are 100 percent
original, with no off-the-shelf generic parts.
Aquadive relaunched their line with
the Bathyscaphe 100 series. The series
is manufactured with a 43-mm case that
emulates the original Model 50. The
Bathyscaphe 100 is a limited edition of
500 pieces, water resistant to 3,300 feet
with an integrated Helium release valve.
It features a Swiss-made ETA 2836-2
movement with Novodiac Incabloc shock
protection. This watch retails for $1,790 on
a genuine Isofrane strap or a stainless steel
mesh bracelet ($1,990). It is also available
in bronze and DLC-coated cases
Aquadive recently added the Bathy-
scaphe 300 to the line, providing the
market with one of the deepest rated dive
 Dr. Fritz Hanselmann showing the
Bathyscaphe 300 at a depth of 4850 feet,
outside of the Hercules dive vehicle.

The Model 51

twin-barrel construction. It is a 35-jewel

movement functioning at 28,800 bph. This
movement is found in many watches that
retail for thousands more than its $3,790
retail price. The Model 51 is the first entry
in a new line that represents a hybrid mar-
watches available: 10,000 feet. The 300 in a soft iron cage that acts as an anti-mag- riage of classic style and modern high-end
uses the exact same case and 45-mm di- netic shield. Like the 100, the edition is movements, in short, a new collectible.
mensions as the original Model 50. The limited to 500 and retails for $2,690. All The current Aquadive model lineup
300 was recently tested by Dr. Fritz Han- Aquadive watches use a unique patent includes the Bathyscaphe series, tough,
selmann, an underwater archaeologist pending shock absorption system that iso- handmade precision tools for divers
and the Director of Field Operations and lates the movement from the watch case, comprising the 100 Bronze, 100 DLC, 100
Research Development for the Office of this feature adds additional shock protec- SS and the 300. The Aquadive Bathysphere
Underwater Science at Indiana University. tion to the movement. Model 51 is the first in a new line of high-
He is also a Research Associate with the In 2013 Aquadive introduced the end, limited-production timepieces with
Institute of Nautical Archaeology at Texas Haute Horology Bathysphere 300 Model special showpiece movements. Aquadive
A&M University. Hanselmann strapped a 51, a high end modern update of the classic has planned several new models for release
300 to the exterior of his Hercules research Time-Depth Model 50. Like the 300 it fea- in 2014. Unlike most manufacturers, each
vehicle and took it to a depth of 4,850 feet. tures the same case as the original, but re- product is developed to the same high
It didn’t stop working. ceives special refinements visible through specifications and of the same materials,
The 300’s ETA automatic movement its see-through back. The Model 51 is across the board, regardless of retail price.
features a unique Antimagnetic field pro- powered by 13.25 line Swiss manufactured Aquadive watches can be found on the
tection system that isolates the movement movement with a 5-day power reserve and corporate website: www.aquadive.com a
 Case
Bathyscaphe 100 DLC German made and CNC cut
Solid Stainless steel case,
scratch free DLC (Diamond Like
Carbon) coated with micro-
hardness of over 3500 Vickers.
Stainless steel screw down case
back. 43 mm diameter excluding
crown, 49 mm from lug to lug,
15mm height. Water – resistant
to 1000 meters (3300 feet).
Integrated automatic Helium
Release Valve (HRV) at 6 o’clock.

Movement
Swiss Made ETA 2836-2 ,
Hours, minutes, sweep sec-
ond, Self-winding mechanism
with ball bearing rotor, Stop
second device Regulator sys-
tem ETACHRON and regulator
corrector, Novodiac Incabloc
shock protection, 28.800 vibra-
tions per hour; 4 Hz.25 Jewel,
tested and regulated in 5
positions after assembly with
an individual certificate that
accompanies each watch.

Bezel
43mm stainless steel uni-
directional rotating bezel,
120 clicks, laser-cut ratch-
eting spring, scratch-free
Ceramic insert, engraved with
elapsed time markings. 31mm
Sapphire crystal

Strap/
Bracelet
Genuine ISOfrane 22mm strap
with DLC coated solid stainless
signed (AQUADIVE) buckle.

The Aquadive Bathyscaphe

100 on a NATO strap.
 The
Art of Regulation
Another great reason why I’m not a watchmaker

Once removed from the

movement the balance
wheel and hairspring assem-
bly make their way to the
custom chock to have the
slightest amount of material
delicately removed by hand
with the help of a tiny auger.
 Patek Philippe’s Caliber 215
was the test-bed of choice
for first-time timers.

By Gary Girdvainis

C
urious owners tak- devices that can track the beat
ing a moment to ap- while a watch is actually run-
preciate their mechani- ning and give a detailed report
cal marvels through a see through that allows for even finer tuning of
back may have noticed even more info the all-so-important heartbeat of the
engraved on the visible bridges of better watch. With the timing machine report in
timepieces. Close inspection will likely hand the next step is to create a chart and
find details like hallmarks of the manu- attempt to “dynamically” poise the balance.
facturer and jewel counts. Occasionally, within a cage would mitigate gravity’s effect Having some exposure to the arcane
and almost always on better wristwatches, and average out errors in timing caused by art of regulation with WristWatch magazine’
you’ll find information that stipulates that the pull of gravity on a less than perfectly own advisory board member and Certified
a watch is adjusted for heat, cold, isochro- poised balance wheel assembly. Master Watchmaker, Don Loke, I had long
nism, and also that a watch is adjusted in In the days of Breguet a balance wheel wanted to dig deeper into fine regulation
five (5) or six (6) positions. could be statically poised; that is made to —if only to highlight the time and effort
Let’s focus for a moment on the posi- weigh the same on all points around the invested in making mechanical watches as
tional adjustment. This deals with the ever perimeter of the balance wheel, by simply accurate as they might be. So I was pleas-
problematic effect of gravity on mechani- placing the balance (sans hairspring) in a antly surprised when a day of watch train-
cal watches. In an era before modern tim- set of jaws and spinning the wheel, not un- ing sponsored by Patek Philippe was to
ing machines, certain finite problems that like how a car’s tires are balanced. Fixing focus on just this topic.
traced back to the balance wheel’s own the issue was not all that different either: Regardless of which métier to be
state of “balance”—or imbalance were add or remove weight depending on the sit- covered, investing a day with Patek
cause for concern among watchmakers uation and type of balance wheel. Problem Philippe on watch training will always reap
vying for the utmost accuracy. Abraham- was, even when corrected via this “static” a deeper appreciation and understanding
Louis Breguet’s ongoing search for horolog- poising, some watches would still not run as of the mechanical watch. But without
ical perfection led him to his own unique accurately as they might once paired with advance knowledge as to what our training
attempt to conquer this effect with a new the hairspring and installed into the move- might focus on, our small group of watch
system, the “tourbillon.” He surmised that ment. Modern watchmakers have the dis- editors gathered in the conference room
rotating the entire balance wheel assembly tinct advantage of using electronic timing discovered upon arrival that we were about
 Underside of balance: The lateral slot at 10 o’clock was applied as original factory fine tuning
when the watch was first crafted. The smaller dots of removed material at 12, 1, and 4 o’clock
are typical of manual dynamic poising applied when a Patek Philippe is re-regulated as part of
authentic and complete servicing.

to dive into the theory and science of fine

regulation. Additionally we were going to
attempt to apply what we had learned on an
actual Patek movement.
After a morning of basic theory on
the timekeeping organ composed of the
balance wheel, hairspring and lever, we
were prepped to take matters into our own
hands. With the help of Patek Philippe’s
Director of Technical Service, Laurent Ju-
nod, along with several of his watchmakers,
we donned our robes and covered our shoes
with fabric booties and entered the clean
room that real watchmakers call their of-
fice. Seated at a watchmaker’s bench with
an uncased PP Cal. 215 seated in a chock
under a glass dome I prepared to do my
worst at an attempt to dynamically poise
the 215’s balance wheel. It’s worth noting
that well before this step that each hair-
spring and balance have been individually
pre-matched into one of 60 classifications
based on the minutest of variations. It is
also worth noting that our own efforts were
layman’s attempts of practices applied
only to watches that come in for service
and repair as all new-manufactured Patek
Philippe mechanical watches benefit from
a more automated matching and adjusting
protocol.
As I learned earlier in the day, the the hairspring) and place it upside down erances, and voilà, the movement was dy-
methodology we were to employ is to first in a chock designed specifically for this namically poised. That is if you don’t blast
ascertain the “heavy” point on the balance/ purpose. Once seated correctly – using the the assembly out of the chock and onto the
hairspring combination. To do this I need to impulse jewel on the balance staff as the floor using the wrong air hose—oops. Oh
get just enough power into the mainspring to guide, the next step is to remove a tiny bit well, I’ve never claimed to be a watchmak-
achieve a 180 degree swing (arc) of the bal- of material from the position determined er and seemingly prove it any time I have a
ance wheel – well short of the optimum 240 from the chart and identified on the chock. chance to sit at the bench.
degree arc, but ideal for finding the heavy I employ a tiny manual drill that scares out One thing is certain: most collectors
spot on the balance. After just a couple of just a fragment of material from the under- and enthusiasts have no idea what it takes
turns achieve the preferred amplitude, the side of the balance wheel. Thankfully the in time and talent to make our tiny little
movement is placed in a timing machine watchmakers gave us a bit of a leg-up by machines tick—and the next time someone
that rotates through four positions with the previously identifying the spot and mak- asks me why a fine mechanical watch is so
crown up, down, left and right. Once fin- ing the most subtle of guide holes to help expensive I’ll have another strong argu-
ished with this cycle you draw a cross on a us along. None of us at the table were real ment that a well-made wristwatch is worth
piece of paper and mark the running rates watchmakers so this little bit of help was the price.
for each position to its matching position on greatly appreciated—at least by me. Once I extend my deepest thanks to Laurent
the written cross. Look for the fastest rate the material was removed, I reinstalled the Junod and his staff of talented (and toler-
and you’ve discovered the heavy point. assembly (no easy feat on any watch) and ant) watchmakers—as well as Larry Pet-
Now comes the fun part. I unscrew repeated the timing machine testing. The tinelli, Jessica Kingsland and all the staff
the balance cock and gently remove the process went like this until the position involved in developing and organizing the
entire assembly (taking care not to stretch errors fell into line within prescribed tol- day’s program. a
As a first of its kind AboutTIme focuses
exclusively on accessibly priced watches.

FUNCTION and FASHION for the wrist

What you will find in AboutTime

is a huge diversity of great watches
from both iconic brands and new-
comers alike. What you won’t find
is any watch costing more
than $2,400 retail !

With a growing vintage collecting community, AboutTime will also

include choice vintage watches and offer details on collecting, brand
communities, and events.

Categorical guides in every issue of AboutTime will help expand/refine

your search and help steer you to your next watch.

Published quarterly in print and digital editions find out why It’s
AboutTime at: info@isochronmedia.com or call (203) 485-6276
 Engineering excellence combined
with elegant artistry.

By Gary Girdvainis

I
n today’s modern world, it is hard to create anything new and
innovative. In recent history it seems some of the best modern
ideas have been born from past successes. This clear pattern is
well-represented in the throwback designs of so many watch brands,
but the retro trend can also be seen in another product historically
linked to the timepiece: firearms. When you look back at the elegant,
if not always reliable, mechanisms of early firearms: Matchlock,
Wheelock, Snaphance and Flintlock, the correlation of gears, levers
wheels and springs that comprised the earliest examples of powder-
charged projectile weaponry were also found in the less mercenary
devices that were the earliest mechanical timekeepers. Although both
were meant to be functional and effective mechanisms in their own
right, the best examples of both were crafted with an elegance and
flourish beyond their base functionality. Engraving, inlay, precious
metals, exotic materials, gems, and decoration of all sort adorned both
the mechanical clock and firearm with equal flair.

A recent collaboration between a firearm manufacturer and watch

maker elicits more of the artistic nature of this historic parallel.
Cherished by high-end collectors, Cabot Guns is a specialist 1911
handgun manufacturer. They have now partnered with the nautically
inspired watch maker Vineyard Time to bring a new look to the iconic
1911. Based on Martha’s Vineyard, Vineyard Time celebrates the nau-
tical nature of the Island and was the first to revive the tradition of
Scrimshaw.
The 1911 Colt was first developed as the US armed services
searched for an upgrade to the .38 caliber double action pistol which
lacked both the stopping power and rate of fire called for on the
modern battlefield.
 The winner of the competition was a same perfection is essential in the creation Time has continued to incorporate historic
Colt pistol by John M. Browning. Brown- of Cabot’s own 1911. The desire to create materials such as antique and fossilized
ing’s sample reportedly passed the test with a 1911 that far surpassed others already mammoth ivory (neither of which contrib-
zero malfunctions. Formally adopted by the on the market led the CEO of Cabot Guns, ute to, nor promote the harvesting of any
U.S. Army on March 29, 1911, Browning’s Rob Bianchin, to look for brands and ac- modern day wildlife) as well as buffalo
Colt became known officially as the Model cessories that held to the same high stan- horn into classic scrimshaw dials. Vine-
1911. It quickly gained a reputation for dards as Cabot. During their year of devel- yard Time was the first to incorporate these
reliability, accuracy and stopping power. opment, Bianchin attended the Showcase materials into watches as scrimshaw dials.
Even with today’s technology, the 1911 at Hudson Farm, a special hunting, clays, The original watch design created in
still represents one of the most impressive and finishing club located in Andover, collaboration with Cabot Guns is hand stip-
designs of all time, and continues to be the New Jersey. It’s here that the president of pled by world renown scrimshander Dar-
regular service pistol for many soldiers 103 Vineyard Time, Rubin Cronig, and Rob rel Morris and features the original 1911
years later. As the patents expired, various Bianchin first met. Both began discussing blueprints modified to represent the Cabot
manufacturers continued to produce the their appreciation for the other’s product, 1911’s unique contributions to the design.
1911 frame. A collector’s favorite, and one and soon after decided to collaborate and Each dial is first hand polished and
of the most refined and impressive versions create a custom Cabot Guns Timepiece. stippled with a needle by Morris. Once
is the Cabot 1911. Both are U.S.-based companies that stippled, the dial is then inked. The ink
As in watchmaking, where precision utilize old ideas in new ways. Cabot Guns remains in the tiny individual dots and is
is necessary to maintain accurate time, this has re-envisioned the 1911 and Vineyard wiped away from all polished areas, leaving
the desired image in contrast. Each scrim-
shaw dial is a true one of a kind work of art.
An incredible degree of skill and precision
is required to stipple the tens of thousands
to hundreds of thousands of dots in an
individual image.
Pushing the bounds of the 1911 frame,
Cabot decided to debut a unique set of
1911’s at this year’s SHOT show and cre-
ated an unusual left and right hand 1911
pistol. The new left and right hand gun are
each designed from the ground up for ejec-
tion and controls to be properly configured
for their respective hand type, and Rob
Bianchin looked to make the set even more
unusual by creating a set of custom scrim-
shaw grips in cooperation with Vineyard
Time and Darrel Morris.
Growing out of the intense and polar- The concept of the imagery serves Rich Wyatt, and Cabot Gun aficionado
izing political gun debate, Cabot decided to the dual purpose of representing both and supporter Joe Montegna. By the end
highlight the issue by artistically drawing sides of the debate while showcasing the of the show it was clear that the unusual
attention to the political “left” and “right.” history, art and innovation in firearms. grips were a huge success and encouraged
To accomplish this Cabot created both a Joining Darrel at the 2014 SHOT show show attendees to expand the dialogue
left and right model version of the scrim- were Will Bethards and Brian Zins, and further consider their own views on
shaw grip. On the left hand gun they fea- two of the world’s premier competition firearms - not exclusively as weapons, but
ture President Obama and Piers Morgan. shooters. Other high profile visitors to perhaps, like the mechanical wristwatch,
On the right hand version are President the booth included Rocker Ted Nugent, as a timeless icon of human history,
Bush and Ted Nugent. Gunsmoke owner and Cabot Guns dealer ingenuity, engineering and art. a
Is exclusivity
only about

money?
In a world full of multinational luxury brands,
it’s still possible to feel truly unique.
 By Alexander O’Brien

can define exclusivity as the sensation of

being on a summit, surrounded by a small
and select number of peers, and gazing at
the world from a more advantageous and
inaccessible position.
As much as money will always be
one of its main components, the concept
of exclusivity has also nobler and more
sophisticated underpinnings: personality
and style, culture, good taste, and personal
connections have always been equally rel-
evant ingredients.
But is this broadly accepted definition
as encompassing as it might have been 25
years ago?
In a world where every summit is
renowned, photographed and publicized
on the media, money has become the
only indispensable tool that buys you the
thrill of being on top. Personal style, good
taste, discovery are no longer the other
fundamental ingredients that transform
exclusivity into the fulfilling and gratifying
experience it once used to be.
 In other words, globalization and something truly unique or rare,”says Matt writing instruments, money clips, golf tools,
availability are doing to exclusivity what Conable, founder and creative engine of and William Henry has become one of the
Xerox has done to art: by replicating it William Henry. “For many of these compa- most exclusive and admired brands in the
and making it promptly available, they nies, exclusivity is defined predominantly often overlooked world of luxury for men.
have undermined its true essence and by price and status, and not so much by But what makes this brand so
diminished the special aura of uniqueness originality or by the limited availability of distinctive is that it has proudly retained
that once shone around it. Money plays the their offerings”. the aura and feel of an artisan workshop,
main role today, and there’s not much room ”I think of luxury as exotic, rare, pre- where every piece is designed and created
left for unique personalities, original tastes, cious, and timeless. The status is con- exclusively in small, limited, often unique
and individual innovation. ferred by the quality of the product and editions.
There was a time when today’s most what it says about the owner, as opposed to Matt Conable: “For many premium
famous jewelry brands where small bou- the current model where status is conferred watch brands, an edition of 1,000 num-
tiques that created custom pieces in small by ‘brand ambassadors’ and massive adver- bered pieces might be an ‘exclusive’ offer-
numbers, and were accessible only to the tising budgets”. ing. At William Henry, that would be the
few who knew about them or who were Conable founded William Henry in largest and least exclusive offering in our
lucky enough to be known. Today very few 1997. He established the brand creating history.”
of these important brands still can claim distinctive and award-winning pocket- William Henry’s collections are sold
this original characterization. knives, effectively transforming the arche- on its website, and through a select group
“Most luxury brands have become type of all tools into a superb piece of func- of authorized independent retailers in the
multinational chains that no longer offer tional jewelry. Today’s collections include U.S. and abroad.
 The distinctive character of the artistry just as important as their intrinsic value.
and the personality of the materials make William Henry’s customers are treat-
this brand’s every creation truly unique. No ed—and indeed they feel—like a small,
two pieces are alike. exclusive elite. The company is reserved
“I like the idea that William Henry’s about them, but we know their clients
creations strike a personal chord with our range from Brad Pitt & Angelina Jolie to
clients,” says Conable. “Every now and rock stars, royalty, and heads of state.
then, it is important to invest in objects that Understanding the thin line that sepa-
are personal, immediately useful, yet time- rates fashionable from exclusive is an im-
less in their appeal and relevance—these portant challenge for most luxury brands.
rare pieces are imbued with the personality It describes the difference between the
of their owners, and become part of their concepts of timeless and ephemeral, char-
living legacy.” acter and trend, and it defines the univer-
In the past century, movie stars and roy- sally gratifying feeling of possessing a truly
als played a fundamental role in propelling unique personality.
to fame brands like Bulgari or Cartier. It’s Exclusivity is possible today as it was
not surprising that today’s search for exclu- 100 years ago. You just need to know where
sivity is brought forth by personalities and to look, and approach your choices with
individuals that interpret style and luxury as the right mindset. As Matt Conable puts it:
a means to affirm their distinctive personal- “Exclusivity is about being you, not being
ity, where choosing truly unique creations is like someone else” a

Understanding the thin

line that separates
fashionable from
exclusive is an
important callenge
for most luxury brands.
LIFESTYLE

One Exceptional Luxury Car

Cadillac XTS AWD

T
he XTS is the flagship luxury sedan of the Cadillac division of
General Motors and is the largest of the three different sedan
series presently marketed by Cadillac in the United States. The
XTS competes directly with the Lexus LS460, Audi A8, Mercedes-Benz
S-Class, BMW 7 Series, Jaguar XJ and Lincoln MKS sedans. Introduced
as a totally redesigned model last year, the XTS offers top-level state-of-
the-art technology, and build quality as good or better than any car that
Germany or Japan has to offer. And it is priced 20 to 30 percent below The Cadillac XTS AWD –
an excellent car and an
all but one of those competitors.
excellent value
The modern shape of the XTS is called “Art and Science” styling
by Cadillac design and has great, edgy, avant garde appeal. The car
is powered by a 3.6 liter V-6 gasoline engine with variable valve tim-
ing which produces 304 horsepower at 6800 rpm. A 6-speed automatic
transmission drives the front wheels on the standard car, which has an
MSRP of $45,525, and all wheel drive is available as the XTS AWD
starting at $52,240. The EPA fuel economy rating is 17 mpg city and 28
 THE CADILLAC AUTOMOBILE COMPANY was established
in August, 1902 by Henry M. Leland. It is the second oldest automobile brand in
the United States and was named after the French explorer who founded Detroit
in 1701. From the outset Leland stressed the highest quality in manufacturing
and complete reliability in use, which paid off with 2,000 orders when he exhib-
ited the new Cadillacs at the New York Auto Show in January, 1903. It quickly
became the leading luxury car in the United States and in July of 1909 Leland
sold Cadillac to General Motors Corporation. Under GM, Cadillac introduced many
technological innovations such as the first electric starter, the first fully enclosed
body and the first V-8 engine, which enabled Cadillac to dominate the luxury car
market while almost all its competitors such as Packard, Peerless, Pierce Arrow
(“The Three P’s”), Marmon, Auburn and Duesenberg went out of business. Of all
Cadillac’s American luxury competitors, only Chrysler and Lincoln survive today
(interestingly enough, Lincoln was also founded by Henry M. Leland, in 1917, after
By Charles Moyer, he left Cadillac, and it was later acquired by the Ford Motor Company). From
WristWatch Luxury its fifty-year dominance of the luxury car market Cadillac declined in the 1980s
Features Editor and 1990s, but it is again ascending to the highest ranks of luxury cars by mak-
ing vehicles of great design and very high quality. In 2013 Cadillac was America’s
fastest growing luxury car brand with a gain of 21 percent over 2012.

luxury car should be: smooth, quiet and no-cap fuel tank filler. The details of the
elegant. The car has excellent handling many and varied features and options are
characteristics, powerful Brembo disc viewable on the Cadillac website.
brakes, and a very comfortable ride thanks The warranty coverage on the XTS is
to the Magnetic Ride Control (a GM inven- 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes
tion, also available on Corvette, which has first, with 6 years or 70,000 miles warranty
since been adopted by Audi on their R8 on the powertrain. The Cadillac Roadside
super cars and also used by Ferrari on Assistance Program also covers the XTS
their 599 GTB Fiorano and F12 Berlinetta for 6 years or 70,000 miles. The XTS also
super cars) which is standard equipment comes standard with Cadillac Premium
in addition to rear air springs on all the Care Maintenance, which covers the
XTS models. The car I drove had the stan- required routine service on the car for the
dard 304 horsepower normally aspirated first 4 years or 50,000 miles of operation.
engine and I found that it was very respon- With excellent cars like the XTS in
sive, smooth, and had plenty of power in their lineup, it’s no wonder that Cadillac
all driving situations. For the average driv- scored the largest annual increase in sales
er, this engine is more than sufficient and of any car in the luxury segment of the
the more powerful engine is not necessary. American automobile market with a gain
If, on the other hand, you feel the need of 21 percent in 2013 to a total of 185,000
for speed and want an Autobahn cruiser, cars. I unreservedly recommend this car
the XTS Vsport with its twin turbocharged to WristWatch readers. It is an excellent
mpg highway for the front wheel drive car, 410 horsepower fills that bill very nicely car and at a price 20 to 30 percent below
and 17 mpg city and 26 mpg highway for indeed. The car I drove had several op- almost all the competition. If you buy it
the AWD model. Additionally, Cadillac of- tions that brought the MSRP to $59,625. you will not regret it, and it will give you
fers an XTS Vsport model which has a twin The standard and optional features of the many comfortable miles of pleasant and
turbocharged 3.6 liter V-6 gasoline engine, XTS entail everything anyone would want, enjoyable driving. Take a test drive in the
also with variable valve timing, which pro- really all the bells and whistles. They are XTS and see for yourself. If you live in
duces 410 horsepower at 6,000 rpm. The too numerous to mention all here, but a Florida or other southern states or southern
Vsport comes standard with AWD and a few of the highlights I like are heads-up California you could consider buying the
6-speed automatic transmission with pad- display, multiple enhanced safety features, standard XTS with front wheel drive. But
dle shifters for a starting price of $63,020. CUE (Cadillac User Experience) touch- if you are in the northeast or midwest or
Fuel economy reduces slightly to 16 mpg screen system with navigation, ventilated anywhere else that gets snow, all wheel
city and 24 mpg highway. front seats, heated steering wheel as well as drive is really the way to go and you should
I drove a Cadillac XTS AWD for a heated front and rear seats, 110 volt power buy the XTS AWD. a
week and I found it to be everything a outlet, 14 speaker Bose sound system, and Website: www.Cadillac.com
 By James Henderson

Come and
Gone
It The Danger of Falling
goes without saying that nobody
likes a failure. It is no accident
that it has been said that success
has countless parents, while failure is an or-
phan. So it is with the watch industry. There
in Love
have been three very notable “fails” over
the past year—at least notable to me. What
is particularly tragic in all three situations then—announcements are sent to the retail 1. Management team: about 3 or 5 people
is that they did not have to fail, and the partners that in fact, they need to return all 2. Marketing/PR: maybe 2 or 3 people
aftermath of the failures underscored how of the watches as soon as possible because 3. Sales: maybe 3 people
little the brands really understood about the distribution has been closed, Brand X
where they had been, where they were, and is reorganizing. Months pass, months turn The money came from an owner, from
where they could possibly hope to be. into a year. Still no real distribution, no an investor - but there was nothing PHYSI-
What is fascinating in all three ex- retail. NO WATCHES. CAL, just some offices, some marketing
amples is that they were all what we in the So now, there is (as far as anyone can material, just a story, just a dream. Even
U.S. call “re-boots.” By that, I mean that tell) no company, no distribution, no re- now, hundreds of watch cases, dials and
these were brands that at one time existed, tail—and heaven help the poor customer hands sit wasting away at a third-party
and either ceased to exist or went through who bought one of these watches, cause manufacturing facility waiting for an in-
major reorganizations. And what is clear guess what? They are on their own. voice to be paid, and that invoice will never
in the final analysis is that all three But what was this brand? what was this be paid. And now the supplier has lost as
re-boots were really based on stories, not company? “Oh my heavens,” you say. All well, and those cases, dials and hands are
on actual watches. If you were writing a those poor watchmakers are out of work…” now orphans.
story then this would be sufficient, but if Guess again, there were no watch And what did we learn from all of this?
you are trying to make watches and build a makers. Brand X simply worked with a Probably not too much because there are
brand, it can be a recipe for disaster. “Private Label” company to produce and several other “Brands” lined up, ready
Let’s take brand X. First BaselWorld assemble the watches for them. Brand to take the plunge this year at Basel-
comes around—lights, camera, smiles, X worked with distributors, they did not World. Because ultimately, there are very,
“sample watches” and…. nothing for sev- have any subsidiaries, and the distributors very few brands left in the sense that we
eral months. Production delays, supply advanced payment for watches that had not think about them when we read the glossy
issues, distributors get stiffed after pay- yet even been assembled. Brand X man- magazines. It is a marketing and packaging
ing in ADVANCE for product and some of aged to spread the risk so well, that in fact exercise, and in all honesty this should not
these same distributors then get notified the investors/owners could simply cut off surprise us as much as it does.
that their agreements have been termi- the operation for several months to a year And because it was a dream without
nated after only 3 - 6 months?!? Oh, and and wait it out. So in fairness, the CEO, anything physical to back it up, we have
by the way, Brand X makes absolutely no the three people in marketing, the various now woken up.
effort to repay the money that was paid in sales managers—yes they lost their jobs. Until we close our eyes again and
advance to them. Things sputter along, and Essentially the brand was this: dream. a
EDITOR’S NO

Bond’s Watches & More

No fictional character’s choice of wristwear is more actively scru-
tinized than that of James Bond. Most WristWatch readers prob-
ably know that the Bond of Ian Fleming’s original novels wore a
Rolex, a brand reprised on the wrist of Sean Connery in several
Bond films. Readers probably know, too, that the current Bond, In our cover story, starting on page 42, I take a look at Rich-
Daniel Craig, wears only Omega when he plays 007. But do they ard Mille’s fascination with new materials in watchmaking. Mille
also know that Seiko made a handful of appearances in Bond films may just be the most original thinker when it comes to modern
along the way, as did Heuer, Gruen (the first Bond watch in film), horology. His philosophy has long been to push the boundaries of
Breitling and Pulsar? watchmaking by continuing to drive innovation in the materials
James Bond expert and watch historian Dell Deaton has de- he uses. With his latest discovery, NTPT® Carbon, he may have
voted countless hours to cataloguing the wristwatches of 007, both found the ideal ultra-light-weight case material for his watches.
in film and in print. As the curator of the recent NAWCC Museum Though something tells us that he will continue to look for lighter,
exhibition on James Bond’s watches, Mr. Deaton shares not only stronger and even more innovative materials in the years to come.
which watches Bond has worn in every major film appearance, but And of course, fresh from our return from BaselWorld, we
also hazards a guess as to what directors, in those rare instances present a number of brand-new timepieces that made their debut
when James Bond did not wear a watch on screen, were trying to at the show. These watches, which start on page 18, run the gamut
convey. We trust that you will be very interested by what Mr. Dea- from simple to complex. We will cover even more BaselWorld pre-
ton has to share, starting on page 54. mieres in our next issue.
Later, on page 98, WristWatch Editorial Director Gary Gird-
vainis invites us inside the watchmaking workshop of the Henri All the best,
Stern Watch Agency, otherwise known as the North American Jonathan Bues
subsidiary of Patek Philippe. Over the course of a day spent with
Patek Philippe watchmakers, Mr. Girdvainis learned the art of
fine tuning a mechanical escapement, or “regulation” in watch-in-
dustry parlance. Along the way, the author gains new perspective
on this difficult and labor-intensive procedure, in which almost Editor-in-Chief
microscopically small fragments of the balance wheel are hewn WristWatch magazine
away in order to “poise” the mechanism. jon@isochronmedia.com
L I F E I S A B O U T M O M E N T S
C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0

CLIFTON
RED GOLD, 39 MM
SELF-WINDING
www.baume-et-mercier.com
 hermès. time reinvented.

dressage
la montre hermès tames time, mastering its measurement.
one press on the pushbutton and the chronograph’s second hand starts moving,
the counter hands hot on its heels. beneath the dial ticks the steady beat of the manufacture
h 1925 mechanical movement, embodiment of the house’s high standards.
precision and elegance meet and merge, reminding us that each second is truly unique.