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Gun Modify

This document provides instructions for modifying 9mm blank guns to fire live ammunition by drilling and tapping the barrel to accept set screws with drilled holes of varying sizes. It cautions that the modifications should only be done with the proper tools and precautions to avoid injury. Live ammunition should only be fired from properly converted guns, as unmodified guns may malfunction or explode.

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Brotha Blak
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3K views3 pages

Gun Modify

This document provides instructions for modifying 9mm blank guns to fire live ammunition by drilling and tapping the barrel to accept set screws with drilled holes of varying sizes. It cautions that the modifications should only be done with the proper tools and precautions to avoid injury. Live ammunition should only be fired from properly converted guns, as unmodified guns may malfunction or explode.

Uploaded by

Brotha Blak
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as RTF, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Modified Bullet ???

Hello;

I live in Lebanon-Beirut, i just want to know HOW 9 mm bullets can be modified to be shot from
blank 9mm guns.

I say how, because some of the "guys" already did it.


The result was 9mm cartridge shooting 2mm bullet :s
Guns : Blow class 9mm (blank gun)
AK-47 Sadam
Excuse my bad english
No idiots with dumb answers

You will have to get a conversion kit or a blank fireing barrel or

I COULD HELP MORE IF I KNEW WHAT GUN YOU HAVE

Supplies Needed:

Machinists vise
Cutting oil
Propane or MAP gas torch

1911 barrel, preferably used and worn out


Bench Grinder
Emory paper
Scotchbrite pad

Electric Drill
Tap wrench
½ inch national coarse thread tap ( ½ inch 13 threads per inch)
27/64ths Drill bit
½ inch national coarse thread cup point set screws ( ½ inch 13 threads per inch)
5/32nds Drill bit
# 26 - # 23 Drill Bits (.1470, .1495, .1520, .1540)
Allen wrench or bit driver to fit your set screw

PermaBlue
Dishsoap
Toothbrush/Scotchbrite pad
Water
Q-tips or gun patches

Procedure 1 – Drilling and Tapping the barrel

Supplies Needed:
1911 barrel
Electric Drill
27/64ths Drill Bit
Tap wrench
½ inch national coarse thread tap
½ inch national coarse thread set screw
Allen wrench
Cutting oil

Firmly secure 1911 barrel in jaws of machinists vise, using wood blocks or other non marring
material. Take care as to not over tighten the vise as to cause damage, deformation or marring to
the barrel.
Advance 27/64ths drill into bore approximately 1 inch to 1.5 inches, taking care to not hog the
barrel while drilling. A drill press, vise and set of parallels can be used as a preferred method.
Cutting oil is to be used during this process.
Clear the bore of metal chips prior to threading.
Advance the tap into the bore by hand (using tap wrench) taking care as to maintain the tap true
to the bore. Occasionally reverse the tap to break any chips as they form. Use cutting oil liberally
to flush chips and lubricate the tap during this process. Advance the tap approximately ¾ inch to
1 inch into the bore.
Clean threads and barrel. Test fit set screw to ensure proper fit and that the set screw bottoms
out slightly below the muzzle.

Procedure 2 – Removing locking lugs and tapering barrel hood.

Supplies Needed:
1911 barrel
Bench grinder
Barrel bushing
Emory paper

1.) Carefully grind away locking lugs on the bench grinder. Material is to be removed from the
locking lugs down to barrel diameter. Taper chamber hood to barrel.

2.) Test fit barrel bushing on barrel. Barrel may have expanded after being drilled and tapped. If
the barrel bushing does not easily slide on, use emery paper to remove material from barrel
diameter until a suitable fit is achieved.

Procedure 3 – Finishing

Supplies Needed:
1911 barrel
Emory Paper
Cutting oil
Scotchbrite pad
PermaBlue bluing
Dishsoap
Toothbrush
Gun patches or Q-tips

Smooth all rough surfaces with emory paper and cutting oil. Pay special attention to chamber
hood taper and front 2 inches of barrel.
Degrease thoroughly with dishsoap and water.
Polish all surfaces of barrel with Scotchbrite pad
Degrease the barrel again with dishsoap and water, use a toothbrush to scrub the barrel. Do not
touch the barrel with your bare hands or anything oily after degreasing.
Apply PermaBlue with q-tips or gun patches, allowing the solution to sit on the barrel for 30 – 45
seconds from first application. Rinse barrel under water after application.
If the finish is spotty or not complete, repeat steps 4 and 5 until the desired finish is attained.
Coat the freshly blued barrel with cutting oil. Wipe excess oil off with patches or paper towel.

Procedure 4: Drilling set screws

Supplies Needed:
Propane or MAP gas torch
½ inch national coarse thread set screws
5/32nds Drill bit
# 26 - # 23 Drill Bits (.1470, .1495, .1520, .1540)
Allen wrench or bit driver to fit your set screw

Heat set screws on heat resistant / fireproof surface until the tips are reddish orange in color to
soften them, if the set screws are hardened.
Secure set screw in vise, using blocks of wood so that the threads are not marred or deformed.
Center drill the set screws (preferably using a drill press to prevent hogging of apertures) with the
drill bits specified. Start with the largest sizes first.
Create a means of marking or otherwise identifying the set screws. A block of wood with holes
drilled and threaded in, then labeled, or commercial off the shelf pill containers.

Procedure 5: Testing / Troubleshooting

Be sure that your 1911 functions properly with live ammo, with your non-drilled and tapped barrel.
If your gun has problems with live ammo, don’t expect it to work with blanks either.

Install your 1911 barrel, with the barrel link installed. Install the largest aperture set screw in your
barrel. Test fire. If the blank fails to cycle the slide, install the next smaller size aperture. Repeat.

If the 1911 jams on the blank, or the slide jams, remove the barrel link and repeat above.

If your recoil spring is heavily used / old, it may cycle with a larger aperture (154) than the
recommended (150). Always use the largest aperture that will consistently cycle your 1911 to
reduce wear/stress.

There are two types of 1911 blank

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