GI Journal No.

86 1 June 30, 2016

 GOVERNMENT OF INDIA
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS
JOURNAL NO.86

JUNE 30, 2016 / ASHADHA 09, SAKA 1938

GI Journal No. 86 2 June 30, 2016

 INDEX

S. No. Particulars Page No.

1 Official Notices 4

2 New G.I Application Details 5

3 Public Notice 6

4 GI Applications
Mysore Silk (Logo) - GI Application No.532 7

5 General Information 22

6 Registration Process 24

GI Journal No. 86 3 June 30, 2016

 OFFICIAL NOTICES
Sub: Notice is given under Rule 41(1) of Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration & Protection) Rules, 2002.

1. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1) it is informed that the issue of Journal 86 of
the Geographical Indications Journal dated 30th June, 2016 / Ashadha 09th , Saka
1938 has been made available to the public from 30th June, 2016.

GI Journal No. 86 4 June 30, 2016

 NEW G.I APPLICATION DETAILS

App.No. Geographical Indications Class Goods

551 Zardalu Mango 31 Agricultural

552 Shahi Litchi of Bihar 31 Agricultural

553 Katarni Rice 30 Agricultural

554 Magahi Paan 31 Agricultural

GI Journal No. 86 5 June 30, 2016

 PUBLIC NOTICE

No.GIR/CG/JNL/2010 Dated 26th February, 2010

WHEREAS Rule 38(2) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and

Protection) Rules, 2002 provides as follows:

“The Registrar may after notification in the Journal put the published
Geographical Indications Journal on the internet, website or any other electronic
media.”

Now therefore, with effect from 1st April, 2010, The Geographical Indications Journal
will be Published and hosted in the IPO official website www.ipindia.nic.in free of
charge. Accordingly, sale of Hard Copy and CD-ROM of GI Journal will be
discontinued with effect from 1st April, 2010.

Registrar of Geographical Indications

GI Journal No. 86 6 June 30, 2016

Advertised under Rule 41 (1) of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection)
Rules, 2002 in the Geographical Indications Journal 86 dated 30th June 2016

G.I. APPLICATION NUMBER – 532

Application Date: 26-08-2015

Application is made by Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (A Government of

Karnataka Enterprises), III and IV Floor, Public Utility Building, M.G Road, Bangalore –
560001, Karnataka, India for Registration in Part A of the Register of Mysore Silk (Logo)
under Application No: 532 in respect of - Raw Silk Yarn, Textile and Textiles Goods including
Sarees and Clothing (Readymade Garments, made ups, ties, etc.,) falling in Class – 23, 24 & 25
is hereby advertised as accepted under Sub-section (1) of Section 13 of Geographical
Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

A) Name of the Applicant : Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited

(A Government of Karnataka Enterprises)

B) Address : Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited

(A Government of Karnataka Enterprises),
Managing Director, III and IV Floor, Public Utility
Building, M.G Road, Bangalore, Karnataka –
560001, India

C) Types of Goods : Class – 23 - Raw Silk Yarn;

Class - 24 - Textile and Textiles Goods including
Sarees;
Class - 25 - Clothing (Readymade Garments, made
ups, ties, etc.,)

D) Specification:

Mysore silk is one of the most popular, finest and purest forms of silk. Mysore silk is a
famous variety of silk made in Mysore and Bangalore in Karnataka. Known for its
extraordinary quality and permanence of luster, it is an integral part of Karnataka’s
culture. In this region, people always wear some kind of silk while participating in a
ritual. Mysore silk draws its fame from the purity of the silk, its luster, softness and
richness of its natural colour which gave it precedence over all other silks.

The weight and the content of gold or silver thread used mainly in the intricate border
and the pallu or the headpiece determine the price of the sarees. A saree usually weighs
between 400 and 600 grams (15-21 ounces). The silk is dyed using natural pigments and
woven into intricate but, subtle patterns featuring motifs of birds or fruits, leaves etc.
The painstaking production process by the weavers ensures that every aspect of the saree
is perfect.

Mysore silk saree with its extraordinary sheen of the fabric, purity of the zari, the
distinctive drape, a wonderful non-crush quality, and a butter-soft feel gives an elegant
look to anyone who wears it. These classy sarees are not only washable, but also
durable. The zari too rarely fades because the yarn used has the maximum gold and
silver compared to any silk saree in the country. The intricate zari work on the borders
and pallu set them apart. Mysore silk saree exhibiting a range of rich colors, with golden

GI Journal No. 86 7 June 30, 2016

 threads interwoven in it for an enhanced effect, has almost acquired a legendary status
due to its sheer beauty and demand.

The silk weaving factory in Mysore, presently owned by KSIC, was established in the
year 1912 by the Maharaja of Mysore province. Initially the silk fabrics were
manufactured & supplied to meet the requirements of the royal family and ornamental
fabrics to their armed forces. The name Mysore silk, is a befitting tribute to its ancestry.
KSIC the proud inheritor of this royal legacy, has treasured it for over seven decades,
has been producing 100% pure silk with pure gold zari. The business of manufacturing
quality silk products of varied designs for end user consumption. The Mysore silk
Products are manufactured in our KSIC factory located in Mysore district of Karnataka
State.

Mysore Silk Saree, body and border are woven together and then colouring is done
separately. Also, in the pure silk saree, the zari is made of silver dipped in gold. The
enchanting sheen, amazing drape, enamoring feel and the affinity to radiating
resplendent are the most distinct characteristics of Mysore silk sarees that last for years.

Mysore is rich for its Royal heritage and Grandeur and it is no surprise that the Mysore
silk produced there reflect the traditional splendor through its rich yet delicate motifs.

Mysore Silk:
100% pure silk sarees in Crepe-de-Chine, Georgette with or without Gold Lace in
Borders, Body, Pallu (Cross Border), with or without prints, and plain &printed dress
materials.

Crepe-de-Chine:
26/28 Denier untwisted Raw Silk Yarn in warp, 26/28 Denier 2 ply twisted yarn in weft,
with or without gold lace in borders, body, pallu (cross borders)

Georgette:
26/28 Denier 2 ply twisted yam both in warp and weft, with or without lace in borders,
body, cross borders and the continuation thereof.

E) Name of the Geographical Indication:

MYSORE SILK (LOGO)

F) Description of the Goods:

The name Mysore silk, is a befitting tribute to its ancestry. KSIC the proud inheritor of
this royal legacy, has treasured it for over seven decades, has been producing 100% pure
silk with pure gold zari. The business of manufacturing quality silk products of varied
designs for end user consumption. The products include finest of designer silk sarees,
salwarKameez, shirts, Kurta’s, Silk dhoti and Men’s Tie.

GI Journal No. 86 8 June 30, 2016

 Mysore silk is one of the most popular, finest and purest forms of silk.
Mysore silk is a famous variety of silk made in Mysore region in Karnataka. Known for
its extraordinary quality and permanence of luster, it is an integral part of Karnataka’s
culture.
Mysore silk draws its fame from the purity of the silk, its luster, softness and richness of
its natural colour which gave it precedence over all other silks.

The weight and the content of gold or silver thread used mainly in the intricate border
and the pallu or the headpiece determine the price of the sarees.

A saree usually weighs between 400 and 600 grams (15-21 ounces).

The silk is dyed using natural pigments and woven into intricate but, subtle patterns
featuring motifs of birds or fruits. The painstaking production process by the weavers
ensures that every aspect of the saree is perfect.

Mysore silk saree exhibiting a range of rich colors, with golden threads interwoven in it
for an enhanced effect, has almost acquired a legendary status due to its sheer beauty
and demand.

The Mysore silk Products are manufactured in our KSIC factory located in Mysore
district of Karnataka State.

Mysore is rich for its Royal heritage and Grandeur and it is no surprise that the Mysore
silk produced there reflect the traditional splendor through its rich yet delicate motifs.

G) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no: 21

The production of Mysore Silk originated and confined to the geographical area of
Mysore, erst while kingdom of Mysore. The manufacturing unit of Mysore Silk is
situated in the Mysore City corporation limits, Mysore is a district in the state of
Karnataka.

H) Proof of Origin (Historical records):

The Mysore Silk Weaving Factory one of the oldest and historical Silk manufacturing
units in the country was started in the year 1912 by the Maharaja of Mysore –
Proceedings of the Govt. of His Highness, The Maharaja of Mysore – July 1918.

The proceedings of the Govt. of His Highness, the Maharaja of Mysore, General and
Revenue department No.7000/63/I& C 168-1919-4 dated 29-1-1920, page 4, para (e),
wherein it is mentioned that there was a proposal by the Director for I& C, Mysore for
the re-organization of the factory. Further it is also mentioned in the paras that the
factory’s goods consisted of “Coating” Silks, mixed cotton and Silk sarees, Lace
bordered sarees and dhotis, thereby establishing the history of silk sarees manufacturing
in the unit.

By the records it can be seen that the location of the Weaving Factory, which was an
annexe of the Silk Filature is clearly mentioned as on “Manandavadi Road, Opposite to
church” vide Govt. of His Highness, the Maharaja of Mysore, General and Revenue
department matter of routine for 4th week of March 1930, page 51, para 643.

GI Journal No. 86 9 June 30, 2016

 In the year Jan. 1931 Govt. of His Highness, Maharaja of Mysore, “General and
Revenue Department” Order No. D7344-403-Seri-62-30-3, dated 16-01-1931, page 2,
para “Filature and Reeling” wherein it is mentioned that some quantity of “Mysore Silk”
was sent to Switzerland to check the suitability to produce high-grade silk fabrics and as
a result of experiments, arrangements have been made to install 10 power looms in
Mysore as an adjunct to the Silk Filature for producing high-grade silk fabrics.

During the month of Nov. 1931 vide Govt. of His Highness, Maharaja of Mysore,
“General and Revenue Department” GO No. D 2335-44-SERI-19-31-3, dated 16-11-
1931, under heading Revenues of the Sericulture Department for the year 1930-31
subsequent paras “Govt. Sanctioned the installation”, as an adjunct to the Silk filature, of
a demonstration plant for weaving high-grade silk fabrics for Mysore Silk. The
machineries were installed thereafter.

The Machineries Report on Administration of Mysore for the year 1931-32, para 18, it is
clearly established that the weaving machinery which arrived in Aug. 1931 was installed
in Dec. 1931 in the Weaving Factory at Mysore and the production of silk fabrics was
commenced. It is also clearly mentioned in the above said Mysore administration report
that the Silk Weaving Factory at Mysore was manufacturing Crepe-De-Chine, Georgette
fabrics.

Vide, Govt. of His Highness, The Maharaja of Mysore, General & Revenue Department,
GO No. D2336-45-SERI-23-32-3, dated 28-11-1932, the Government has noted “with
satisfaction that the products of the new Silk Factory at Mysore have proved popular and
that forward orders for them are being registered”.

Vide Report on the Administration of Mysore for the year 1932-33, page 62-63, para 23,
there is a mention of the expansion of the Factory in both weaving, preparatory as well
as dyeing Department.

By the above historical and authentic records it is clearly established that the unit was in
existence in the year 1912, the import of machineries filature at Mysore, Weaving
“Power looms” were installed at Mysore in the year 1931 and production was started
from the year 1932 onwards.

From the above records the Mysore Silk is synonymous with the silk produced in the
geographical area of Mysore Dist., later on the fabrics made out of these silk were called
as “Mysore Silk”. The production of these fabrics has originated and confined to the
geographical area of Mysore.

After the Indian Independence and abolition of princely States, the Management of the
Silk Weaving factory was under the Director of Sericulture.

During the Year 1980-81, Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation was established and the
Management of Silk Weaving Factory was handed over to KSIC Ltd. Till date KSIC, a
wholly owned undertaking of the Govt. of Karnataka is managing the activities of the
Silk Factory and is the rightful and only manufacturer of “Mysore Silk” fabrics, within
the geographical area of Mysore.

GI Journal No. 86 10 June 30, 2016

I) Method of Production:

Procurement of Raw Materials:

Ramanagara is famous for its silk market, one of the largest cocoon market in Asia as
well as in the world, giving it the other name of Silk town. Silkworm cocoons are
brought here by the farmers and sold to companies who process them to get silk. On an
average, 40 metric tons are transacted daily in this market. Around ten million rupees of
transaction takes place every day in this market and around one thousand people
participate in it and around 500 transactions take place every day.

There are 2 types of silk cocoons - Yellow and White. The white cocoons fetch higher
price than the yellow ones, both because of the quality and size. Also these people adopt
rotation policy in acquiring place within the market.

Approximately 1000 kgs of cocoons are purchased daily from Govt. Controlled Market
depending on needs and raw silk yarn is produced in the filature. The purchase is done
on almost daily basis as the purchased cocoon cannot be stored for more than 2 to 3
days.

KSIC buys up to approximately 1000 kgs of cocoons every day, from cocoon markets
regulated by Government of Karnataka. The cocoons are transported to the raw silk
manufacturing unit in T. Narasipura, where they are sorted for quality. The raw silk
made in T. Narasipura is then sent to the weaving unit in Mysore, about 29km away,
where the yarn is twisted into warps and wefts and finally woven into a sari.

Silk Threading and Reeling:

Silk filature refers to raw silk manufacturing unit. The raw silk yarn is obtained from the
Silk Filature at T. Narasipura factory, 25 kms away from the Mysore silk saree making
factory. The factory is located in T. Narasipura, Mysore District in an area of
approximate 15 acres. The cocoons are placed in a semi-automatic machine which pulls
barely visible threads of silk from them. A single cocoon produces 800-900mts. of yarn,
but usable yarn is only up to 400-600mts. The unit manufactures raw silk yarn and
transfers it to meet the raw material requirement of silk weaving factory in Mysore. The
linear mass density of silk fiber is measured in units called dernier. The Mysore silk
factory deals with 26-28 denier of the silk thread. Silk Filature refers to raw silk
manufacturing unit. The unit manufactures raw silk yarn and transfer to meet the raw
material requirement of silk weaving factory in Mysore.

Soaking:
The yarn supplied by the T. Narasipura factory unit is stored at the Mysore unit, as per
the requirement by the production, the yarn is taken to the next process of soaking. Here,
the coconut oil is used as it makes the fabric soft for temporary coloring. The temporary
coloring is done for identifying the warps and the wefts. Steam supplied by boiler house
to aluminium tubs. (Plastic water Container).

Precautions:
Checking the Boiler Steam Pressure.

Preparation:
Dividing the Raw Silk Yarn indented for Warp and Weft as per production plan.

GI Journal No. 86 11 June 30, 2016

 Warp:
Boil Water and add soap 2.5 to 3.5% on weight of material and allow the soap to melt
completely (About 15 minutes). Add 6% to 8% of coconut oil on weight of material and
boil till the coconut oil emulsifies completely (15-20 minutes). Shift the concentrated
solution to the plastic container and dilute the solution to the required level. Add tinted
color (if necessary) and rinse the silk-hand squeeze and hydro extract. Dress and dry in
shade. After completely drying shift the material to soaked silk yarn stores.

Weft:
Boil water and add 2% to 3.5% Soap on weight of material and allow the soap to melt
completely (About 20 minutes). Add 6% to 8% coconut Oil on weight of material and
boil till the coconut oil emulsifies completely (25-30 Minutes). Divide the solution into
two equal parts and add ‘Blue’ color tint for the ‘S’ Direction and dilute the solution to
required level and steep the silk for approximately 3 to 4 hours. Add ‘Orange’ color tint
for the ‘Z’ directions and dilute the solution to the required level and steep the silk for
approximately 3 to 4 hours. Rinse and remove the material, hand squeezer and dress and
dry in shade. Both orange colored and blue colored dressed separately on GI pipes. After
completely drying, shift the material to soaked silk yarn stores lot wise.

Dressing:
The semi-dry silk bundles are tied to form a circle and are hung on GI pipes until they
become completely dry. Straightening of silk fibers are done manually by jerking them
at regular intervals to take away any water content.

Winding:
Single Winding: The above winding process is common for both the making of the
warps and the wefts.

Doubling:
Here, the silk thread is doubled by running two threads simultaneously from two
different bobbins onto a single bobbin and passed onto twisting.

1st Twisting:
This section consists of 4 machines.
The machines consist of a rubber roller to provide tension while twisting.
The doubled weft threads are twisted:
Blue tinted thread are given a ‘S’ Twist in a clockwise direction.
Orange tinted thread are given a ‘Z’ Twist in an anti-clockwise direction.
400 twists are made at this stage.

1st Re-winding:
This section consists of 4 machines.
The thread from the bobbins is now wound around a barrel.
These barrels are sent into the Vacuum Heat Shelter.

Double Winding:
“The most popular Mysore silk is the crepe sari, which gets its excellent fall as a result
of the number of twists. The yarn used for the weft has up to 2,300 twists per metre,
which gives it the crepe silk texture,” says Sri. Suresh Dabade, senior dyeing master at
KSIC’s Mysore establishment.

GI Journal No. 86 12 June 30, 2016

 2nd Twisting:
1800 twists are made at this stage. Therefore, the total no. of twists amount to 2200.

Final Re-winding:
They are now transferred to bobbins.
The bobbins now move onto the pirn winding section under the weaving section.

Pirn Winding:
This section consists of 12 machines of 6 pirns each.
The machines transfer the thread from the bobbins onto the pirns that fit into the shuttles
for weaving. This is done only for the wefts.

Steaming:
The silk threads wound around perforated hollow aluminum pipes are called barrels. The
perforations allow the steam to enter on the insides and spread the temporary color
equally. Up to 200 barrels from a machine can be accommodated in the steam chamber.
Barrels from 3 such machines are placed for a period of 40 minutes for steaming.

WARP SECTION:

Winding:
The winding process is common for both the making of the warps and the wefts.

Cone Winding:
This section consists of 12 machines. A single cone consists of silk generated through
80-90 cocoons. It takes 4 hours to wind one cone. Therefore two shifts of four hours
each are carried out. The machine threads 162 meters of silk onto one cone in 1 minute
so evenly that when it goes to the weaving section there are no gaps found in the sarees.
14,800 silk threads are thus wound around one cone.

All the cone bobbins are transferred on a semi-automatic warping machine. The warping
machine consists a total of 438 bobbins mounted in 34 sections. The bobbins are
mounted on sponge discs to prevent erosion of silk threads with the plastic cones that it
is wound around. At intervals of every five columns, iron teeth protruding from the top
of the columns are present. The silk threads run over these teeth into a perforated
structure before the warp rolling machine.

The silk threads from each bobbin make a net like structure and pass through the
perforations. Before passing through the perforations, the machine indicates an error
sometimes caused by a loose or cut thread by a red light. The skilled artisans identify
immediately as to which thread becomes loose or is cut and fix it by joining both the cut
ends or tighten it.

A combination of three threads through the perforations combines to form a single

thread. Steel rods manually inserted in between the different levels of sets of threads
separate the threads to let them intertwine comfortably and alternately to form a net.
These threads then pass through minutely spaced steel structures, under a roller and a
knot is made to mark one section of the silk threads.

The roller is divided into 5 sections of 9 protrusions each, where it is knotted to mark a
defined length. At every 900 meters of silk thread, a cut is made and 51/2 meters in

GI Journal No. 86 13 June 30, 2016

 length for a saree is made into rolls rolled into newspapers. The waste silk threads that
are cut and broken are collected in a cloth under the net structure.

Gold Lace Section:

“The gold lace (border), which is brought in from Surat, is a silk thread covered by
silver which, in turn, is coated with 24 carat gold. It consists of 0.65% gold and 65%
silver. Any sari that goes out of this place is 24 carat.”

KSIC uses only high quality pure natural silk and 100% pure gold zari. The zari never
tarnishes and will look fresh even over a long period of usage.

Gold Weft:
All 3 materials are wound into one bobbin which in turn is converted into a pirn to fit
into the shuttle for the weft.

Gold Warping:
A smaller version of the warp machine is used in the gold lace section. The gold threads
from the bobbins are transferred into rolls for the warp. Small versions of the shuttles are
used in the weaving.

Gold Warping for Borders:

A smaller version of the warp machine is used in the gold lace section. The gold threads
from the bobbins are transferred into rolls for the warp. Small versions of the shuttles are
used in the weaving.

Weaving the Magic:

The raw silk yarn Filatures obtained from T.Narasipura factory and open Market are put
through various process and quality silk products are produced for end user
consumption. The factory has an installed capacity of 8,00,000 Mtrs per annum. The
sarees manufactured are of unmatched quality and come in varieties to suit the customer
tastes viz: Crepe-de-chine, Georgette, Zari printed crepe silk sarees, semi crepe sarees.
The sarees are printed or dyed. The saree produced in a splash of over 100 different
colors and any number of design combinations.

Some of the design combinations are:

• Embroidery Design saree • Traditional ZariSaree
• Big ButtaPalluZari • Checked ZariSaree
• Rich Pallu Sari Saree • Mango Border Saree
• Jawar Border Saree • Sunrise Design saree
• Small Mango Saree • ButtaPalluSaree
• Zari Printed Saree • Double Line Checks Saree.
• Saree Tissue Saree

Based on the taste of the end consumers, the sarees are printed and dyed with suitable
eye catching colors. Various approved quantity of approved chemicals are added at
various stages as per silk manufacturing standards to retain the luster and quality of the
silk fabric. The sheen and the visual luxury of the crepes are only to be experienced.

At 75 gms per metre, KSIC silk sarees have an unmatched drape. These crepes have
delicate strands of zari interwoven in spectacular designs, in the borders and the pallu.
The printed crepes are tributes to designing and come with a double advantage of
possessing the crepe’s softness and a vibrant range of designs from floral to geometric.

GI Journal No. 86 14 June 30, 2016

 Design:
The power looms are divided into two types: Jacquard loom & Dobby loom

The looms are supplied with patterns by the design section that are fed into the machine
to weave designs onto the sarees.

a) Jacquard Loom:
These looms are powerful and require years of experience of the laborers to handle
them. They have a 600-700 yarn capacity. The patterns are repeated and need to be
monitored to see if any thread gets loose or cut. Each saree takes about 4 hours on the
machine and generate big borders of gold on both sides of the saree.

b) Dobby Loom:

A Dobby Loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp threads using a
device called a dobby. A dobby loom is an alternative to a treadle loom. Each of them is
a floor loom in which every warp thread on the loom is attached to a single shaft using a
device called a heddle. A shaft is sometimes known as a harness, but this terminology is
used less by weavers. Each shaft controls a set of threads. Raising or lowering several
shafts at the same time gives a huge variety of possible gaps or ‘sheds’ through which
the shuttle containing the weft thread can be thrown.

A manual dobby uses a chain of bars or lags each of which have pegs inserted to select
the shafts to be moved. A computer assisted dobby loom uses a set of solenoids or other
electric devices to select the shafts. Dobby looms expand weaver’s capabilities and
remove some of the tedious work involved in designing and producing fabric. Many
newer cloth design techniques such as network drafting can only reach their full
potential on a dobby loom.

Machineries:
The factory started with10 looms in 1930 under the rulers of erstwhile Mysore Kingdom
today boasts of more than 159 looms, two Warping machines and Pirn Machines and
any number of Preparatory Machines.

Degumming:
After weaving, the cloth is generally rough. The degumming process is done to
smoothen the fabric before dyeing. The Degumming section consists of 4 tanks. Around
230 sarees are clamped by metal springs and soaked in boiling water at 90 degrees. Soap
chips and soda ash is added and the sarees are soaked in the solution for upto 2 hours.
The clamps are tied by rope to bidder wood logs as they are heat tolerant. This makes
the fabric soft. The solution starts frothing and is washed down by water at normal
temperature through a hose pipe. The sarees are levered out through a semi-automatic
machine and are put in hot water again for 15 minutes to remove excess solution. The
machine is controlled remotely by the worker. The sarees are removed from the hot
water tank and sent for hydro extraction.

Colouring:
Machines called winches help in the colouring of the sarees. The factory has both the big
winches that can accommodate 40 sarees and the small winches that accommodate 24
sarees for coloring purpose. The sarees are rotated on a frame, on a horizontal axis inside

GI Journal No. 86 15 June 30, 2016

 a tank. The tank contains hot water and the tank is connected to a colour tank through a
pipe. The colour, is in the form of a liquid and is determined from the shade card that is
provided by the marketing team. About 450gms of colour is required for 48 sarees
depending on dark shades or light shades. If the colour is not properly applied, then the
entire saree is bleached again and the colouring process is repeated again. During the
colouring itself, the sarees that were stitched together manually are taken out.

Contrast Colouring:
The coloured sarees are clamped in wood fixtures in plastic bags and the border is left
exposed. A clamp consists of 4 sarees. The border is dipped in water at 120degrees and
colour is added. This process takes about 15-30 minutes. The workers wear protective
gear such as boots, masks and gloves as the colour is extremely toxic. The sarees are
then washed with water to remove excess colour and sent for hydro-extraction.

Stentering:
The semi-dry sarees are steam ironed (heat through steam) on a massive machine, the
Clip Stentering. The entire length of the saree runs on the bed and is ironed as it moves
along the horizontal axis. The saree is collected in a roll at one end and moves onto the
cutting section.

Screen Printed Wonders:

Mysore silk crepe fabric is used to create some wonderful designs. Screen printing is
amongst the most popular methods used on pure Mysore Silk sarees which is specific
and unique designs, patterns and different colours that continue to fascinate and inspire
us to this day.

Hand Screen Printing:

“Silkscreen printing needs a lot of plain old management, and traffic direction, to have it
as one of our choices. Here is how it is done for a long while:

6 tables, each 13 meters long with a capacity to print a total of 500 to 800 meters per day
depending upon the design and the number of colours. The tables are wax coated with
adjustable registration guides. We have a large collection of designs both traditional and
contemporary. New designs are created either for our own collection or for a specific
client. There is no limit to the number of colors that can be printed, though ideally for
efficient production we recommend a limit of 8 to 9 colors.

Fabrics:
We can print on all natural fibers like cotton, silk, linen, jute etc.

Dyes used:
Pigments (water based)
Reactives
Rapid Fast and Indigo Solubles
Napthols and Bases
Acids
All the water from the processing of printed textiles is treated, cleaned and filtered for
recycling within our workshop. The system is so elegant and simple that it has to be seen
to be believed.

GI Journal No. 86 16 June 30, 2016

 Quality Control and Packing:
KSIC is the only organization in the country commanding the entire gamut of silk
production right from reeling of cocoons to the weaving of pure silk fabric of various
shades and designs, all under one roof. KSIC uses only high quality pure natural silk and
100% pure gold zari. The zari never tarnishes and will look fresh even over a long
period of usage. KSIC is the only organization to give guarantee for its zarisaree, to
protect esteemed customers from imitation of KSIC silks, KSIC has given a special
embroidered number for each one of the sarees with a unique number and hologram.

The process unit has ISO 9002 standards.

International Silk association Standards to test the following:
Denier - weight in grams/Mtr
Tenacity
Elongation
Cleanness
Neatness

The silk filature plant uses modern Japanese & Korean Machineries having denier
control to produce quality silk yarn.

Cutting:
Manual cutting of the saree is done according to the pre-decided length from the roll.
The sarees are also tagged at this stage where a unique identification number is given to
every saree. KSIC is the only organization to give guarantee for its zari saree in the form
of embroidered code number which is unique to each saree.

Quality Check:
The sarees are sent from the cutting section to check the final finishing. Stains are
removed manually by using white petroleum. The threads are trimmed at the ends and
are sent for packaging.

Packaging:
The sarees are packed in waterproof paper or brown paper depending on the climatic
conditions. They are then sorted according to type and placed in cartons with cotton and
sent to showrooms.

J) Uniqueness:

Mysore silk is one of the most popular, finest and purest forms of silk. Mysore silk is a
famous variety of silk made in Mysore region in Karnataka. Known for its extraordinary
quality and permanence of luster, it is an integral part of Karnataka’s culture.

Mysore silk draws its fame from the purity of the silk, its luster, softness and richness of
its natural colour which gave it precedence over all other silks.

Mysore silk saree with its extraordinary sheen of the fabric, purity of the zari, the
distinctive drape, a wonderful non-crush quality, and a butter-soft feel gives inelegant
look to anyone who wears it.

GI Journal No. 86 17 June 30, 2016

 These classy sarees are not only washable, but also durable. The zari too rarely fades
because the yarn used has the maximum gold and silver compared to any silk saree in
the country.

The intricate zari work on the borders and pallu set them apart. Mysore silk saree
exhibiting a range of rich colors, with golden threads interwoven in it for an enhanced
effect, has almost acquired a legendary status due to its sheer beauty and demand.

The products include finest of designer silk sarees, salwarKameez, shirts, Kurta’s, Silk
dhoti and Men’s Tie.

Mysore is known for its Royal heritage and Grandeur and it is no surprise that the
Mysore silk produced there reflect the traditional splendor through its rich yet delicate
motifs.

KSIC silk sarees have an unmatched drape. These crepes have delicate strands of zari
interwoven in spectacular designs, in the borders and the pallu. The printed crepes are
tributes to designing and come with a double advantage of possessing the crepe’s
softness and a vibrant range of designs from floral to geometric.

The most popular Mysore silk is the crepe sari, which gets its excellent fall as a result of
the number of twists. The yarn used for the weft has up to 2,300 twists per meter, which
gives it the crepe silk texture

In a genuine Mysore Silk Saree, body and border are woven together and then colouring
is done separately. Also, in the pure silk saree, the zari is made of silver dipped in gold.
The enchanting sheen, amazing drape, enamoring feel and the affinity to radiating
resplendent are the most distinct characteristics of original silk sarees that last for years.

KSIC produces 100% Crepe-de-Chine fabrics using best quality yarn and using 65%
Silver and 0.65% Gold Lace Zari tested at National Test House, Chennai which is under
the control of Ministry of Defense, Government of India.

KSIC is the only company which manufactures silk fabrics with different product range
from cocoon to fabric. The distinctive, exclusive characteristics of Mysore Silk Fabrics
are the result of different factors.

Mysore Silk Fabrics are mainly grey woven and then piece dyed, with unique twist
patterns in the weft preparation resulting in grainy effect and drape. The Mysore Silk
Fabrics have a very high weight per linear meter of the finished fabrics.

K) Inspection Body:

KSIC have their own method for quality control for entire process of production. KSIC
is the only organization in the country commanding the entire gamut of silk production
right from reeling of cocoons to the weaving of pure silk fabric of various shades and
designs, all under one roof. KSIC uses only high quality pure natural silk and 100% pure
gold zari. The zari never tarnishes and will look fresh even over a long period of usage.
KSIC is the only organization to give guarantee for its zari saree, to protect esteemed

GI Journal No. 86 18 June 30, 2016

 customers from imitation of KSIC silks, KSIC has given a special embroidered number
for each one of the sarees with a unique number and hologram.

But in the present scenario, the Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of
India, which is known all over country for quality inspection and testing will provide
inspection mechanism for maintaining quality of the product.

L) Others:

KSIC is the only Company which produces 100% Crepe-de-Chine fabrics using best
quality yarn and using 65% Silver and 0.65% Gold Lace Zari tested at National Test
House, Chennai, which is under the control of Ministry of Defence, Government of
India. KSIC is the only Company which manufactures silk fabrics with different product
range from cocoon to fabric.

Promotion and marketing Mysore silk sarees:

KSIC spends 10% of its total profit on promotional strategies. 20% of this money is
spent on sales promotions. KSIC organize different events for promotion of KSIC
products.

Vintage Saree Exposition:

KSIC organizes Vintage Saree Expositions every year to gain customer’s confidence.
They collect vintage Mysore Silk sarees that were manufactured prior to 1969 in its
Mysore silk weaving factory. Then their technical committee selects the best three well
maintained sarees and prizes are distributed. Prize winners are given a cash award of
Rs.15000/- each and the consolation prize winners are given as a redeemable gift
voucher worth Rs.500/- each. This contest has been organized continuously since 2005.

Fashions Shows:
KSIC also organizes fashion shows in collaboration with other agency for promotion of
its products. Sponsored Miss. Karnataka and will continue to organize fashion shows in
the state and in the neighboring states with the help of State Tourism Development
Corporations.

Exhibitions:
KSIC organizes exhibition in different districts and in large PSU and in various
government departments, also in other countries to attract foreign customers for the
sarees. The KSIC has worldwide recognition, so we don’t want to compromise on
quality. To encourage and support our farmers, we buy ‘desi’ cocoons. But the golden
lace with 0.65 pc gold and 65 pc silver are purchased from Surat.

Promotions and Events:

KSIC had attracted 535 vintage sarees during its recent vintage saree contest, including
those woven way back in 1942. The top prize of Rs. 20,000 went to an Onion Pink Saree
made during 1948-49. During the ensuing celebrations of Christmas, New Year and
Sankranthi, KSIC has been offering discounts for festivities. They also organize
exhibition-cum-sale of Mysore Silk. KSIC has organized Fashion Show Extravaganza
on many occasions across various states and districts on promotional activities to
celebrate the centenary year.

GI Journal No. 86 19 June 30, 2016

Note:

"The GI Application Number 11 "Mysore Silk" & GI Application Number 532 "Mysore Silk
(Logo)" have been registered separately, however, the applicant is at liberty to use the
registration jointly and independently and that such use would also be a valid use under the
Registration."

GI Journal No. 86 20 June 30, 2016

GI Journal No. 86 21 June 30, 2016
 General Information

What is a Geographical Indication?

 It is an indication,
 It is used to identify agricultural,natural,or manufactured goods originating in
the said area,
 It originates from a definite territory in India,
 It should have a special quality or characteristics unique to the geographical
indication.

Examples of possible Geographical Indications in India:

Some of the examples of Geographical Indications in India include Basmati Rice,
Darjeeling Tea, Kancheepuram silk saree, Alphonso Mango, Nagpur Orange,
Kolhapuri Chappal, Bikaneri Bhujia etc.

What are the benefits of registration of Geographical Indications?

 It confers legal protection to Geographical Indications in India,
 It prevents unauthorized use of a registered Geographical Indication by
others.
 It boosts exports of Indian Geographical indications by providing legal
Protection.
 It promotes economic Prosperity of Producers.
 It enables seeking legal protection in other WTO member countries.

Who can apply for the registration of a Geographical Indication?

Any association of persons, producers, organization or authority established by or
under the law can apply.
The applicant must represent the interest of the producers.
The application should be in writing in the prescribed form.
The application should be addressed to the Registrar of Geographical Indications
along with prescribed fee.

Who is the Registered Proprietor of a Geographical Indication?

Any association of persons, producers, organisation or authority established by or
under the law can be a registered proprietor. There name should be entered in the
Register of Geographical Indications as registered proprietor for the Geographical
Indication applied for.

Who is an authorized user?

A producer of goods can apply for registration as an authorized user, with respect to
a registered Geographical Indication. He should apply in writing in the prescribed
form alongwith prescribed fee.

Who is a producer in relation to a Geographical Indication?

A producer is a person dealing with three categories of goods
 Agricultural Goods including the production, processing, trading or dealing.
 Natural Goods including exploiting, trading or dealing.
 Handicrafts or industrial goods including making, manufacturing, trading or
dealing.

Is registration of a Geographical Indication compulsory?

While registration of Geographical indication is not compulsory, it offers better legal
protection for action for infringement.

GI Journal No. 86 22 June 30, 2016

 What are the advantages of registering?
 Registration affords better legal protection to facilitate an action for
infringement.
 The registered proprietor and authorized users can initiate infringement
actions.
 The authorized users can exercise right to use the Geographical indication.

Who can use the registered Geographical Indication?

Only an authorized user has the exclusive rights to use the Geographical indication in
relation to goods in respect of which it is registered.

How long is the registration of Geographical Indication valid? Can it be

renewed?
The registration of a Geographical Indication is for a period of ten years.
Yes, renewal is possible for further periods of 10 years each.
If a registered Geographical Indications is not renewed, it is liable tobe removed
from the register.

When a Registered Geographical Indication is said tobe infringed?

 When unauthorized use indicates or suggests that such goods originate in a
geographical area other than the true place of origin of such goods in a
manner which misleads the public as to their geographical origins.
 When use of Geographical Indication results in unfair competition including
passing off in respect of registered Geographical indication.
 When the use of another Geographical Indication results in a false
representation to the public that goods originate in a territory in respect of
which a Geographical Indication relates.

Who can initiate an infringement action?

The registered proprietor or authorized users of a registered Geographical indication
can initiate an infringement action.

Can a registered Geographical Indication be assigned, transmitted etc?

No, A Geographical Indication is a public property belonging to the producers of the
concerned goods. It shall not be the subject matter of assignment, transmission,
licensing, pledge, mortgage or such other agreement. However, when an authorized
user dies, his right devolves on his successor in title.

Can a registered Geographical Indication or authorized user be removed

from the register?
Yes, The Appellate Board or the Registrar of Geographical Indication has the power
to remove the Geographical Indication or authorized user from the register. The
aggrieved person can file an appeal within three months from the date of
communication of the order.

How a Geographical Indication differs from a trade mark?

A trade mark is a sign which is used in the course of trade and it distinguishes good
or services of one enterprise from those of other enterprises. Whereas a
Geographical Indication is used to identify goods having special Characteristics
originating from a definite geographical territory.

GI Journal No. 86 23 June 30, 2016

 THE REGISTRATION PROCESS

In December 1999, Parliament passed the Geographical Indications of Goods

(Registration and Protection) Act 1999. This Act seeks to provide for the registration
and protection of Geographical Indications relating to goods in India. This Act is
administered by the Controller General of Patents, Designs and Trade Marks, who is
the Registrar of Geographical Indications. The Geographical Indications Registry is
located at Chennai.

The Registrar of Geographical Indication is divided into two parts. Part ‘A’ consists of
particulars relating to registered Geographical indications and Part ‘B’ consists of
particulars of the registered authorized users.
The registration process is similar to both for registration of geographical indication
and an authorized user which is illustrated below:

Filing an Application

Examiantion Objections Opportunity Refused

for Hearing

Acceptance

Advertised in the
GI Journal
Opposition if Allowed or Appeal to
any refused IPAB

Acceptance of
GI

Entered in the GI
Register Particulars of Regd.
GI entered in Part A
of the Register

Registration Particulars of Regd. GI

Certificate issued entered in Part B of the
Register

GI Journal No. 86 24 June 30, 2016