Financal Planning Comprehensive Guide
Financal Planning Comprehensive Guide
Contents
INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................................... 1
BASICS OF FINANCIAL LITERACY ....................................................................................................................... 2
INFLATION ............................................................................................................................................................. 2
Types of inflation indices ................................................................................................................................ 2
Role of RBI ...................................................................................................................................................... 3
Impact on personal finance ............................................................................................................................ 3
INTEREST RATE ........................................................................................................................................................ 4
Policy rate ...................................................................................................................................................... 4
G-secs yields ................................................................................................................................................... 4
Nominal and Real interest rates .................................................................................................................... 5
Impact on personal finance ............................................................................................................................ 5
EFFECT OF TAXATION................................................................................................................................................ 6
ASSET CLASSES AND HISTORICAL RETURN ...................................................................................................................... 7
RISK MANAGEMENT ............................................................................................................................................... 10
RANDOM BRAIN DROPPINGS ........................................................................................................................ 12
BUYER BEWARE..................................................................................................................................................... 12
COMPOUNDING .................................................................................................................................................... 12
PENNY PINCHERS ................................................................................................................................................... 14
PERSONAL FINANCE- HYGIENE FACTORS........................................................................................................ 15
KEEP IT SIMPLE ..................................................................................................................................................... 15
INFORMATION MANAGEMENT.................................................................................................................................. 15
SENSE OF NETWORTH & TRACKER ............................................................................................................................. 16
KNOW THYSELF .............................................................................................................................................. 17
FINANCIAL OBJECTIVE ............................................................................................................................................. 17
CASH FLOW ASSESSMENT & SAVINGS RATE ................................................................................................................. 18
RISK APPETITE....................................................................................................................................................... 18
STITCHING IT ALL TOGETHER .................................................................................................................................... 19
LIQUIDITY AND CASH FLOW MANAGEMENT .................................................................................................. 20
LIQUIDITY ............................................................................................................................................................ 20
CASH FLOW PLANNING ........................................................................................................................................... 20
ASSET ALLOCATION & FUND SELECTION ........................................................................................................ 22
ASSET ALLOCATION ................................................................................................................................................ 22
Asset allocation strategies ........................................................................................................................... 22
Portfolio rebalancing ................................................................................................................................... 23
What constitutes portfolio ........................................................................................................................... 23
INVESTING IN EQUITIES ........................................................................................................................................... 24
Introduction
These notes (although a fancy word for set of scribbled thoughts) originated as an exercise for self, to
understand and effectively plan my own personal finance. What followed was a thought to structure
it, so that a wider set of people could benefit from it.
This is not:
A textbook on financial topics, thus it presents a very basic and naïve version of some of the
subjects discussed in pages to follow;
A recommendation on financial products, for which you should consult your own financial advisor;
An advice on tax efficiency of various financial products, for which you should consult your tax
advisor;
A representation of thoughts of anyone else, apart from my own; be it the Company I work for (or
worked in past) or professional bodies I might be associated with.
My intention here is not to guide you on how best to manage your finances, for which you are the
best person yourself. But to expose you to the many angles of personal finance, so that you can
actively start thinking about it and plan your journey on the road to financial well being.
I have kept the notes fairly brief and in simple language. As a reader, do not try to digest this content
overnight, but rather slowly, googling your way on different topics discussed and structuring your own
thoughts on personal finance.
Although, I have taken due care for accuracy of data and content, I do not assume any responsibility
arising from any errors. Do not rely on this work, in whatsoever form, for taking any financial decision
and consult your financial advisor. I am not a SEBI registered Investment Advisor. Treat this work as
an academic exercise into the subject of personal finance. Also, I have tried to avoid references to any
names/ companies in this note, but wherever it appears, I have not benefited by way of consideration
in any form.
Also, I intend to (no commitment) widen this work over time, to make it more comprehensive, basis
the feedback I receive from you all, so please do write back with your suggestions/ comments or
thoughts at narenderkrishnani88@gmail.com. Even a simple thanks is much appreciated!! Whenever
I update this work, I will upload a copy on the website http://financialplanningsimplehai.com (under
construction, just like my own financial plan).
Inflation
This concept is understood in some form by everyone, from a layman to economists. Most commonly
referred to as ‘Mehengayi’ in Hindi news media and a driving factor for many an elections. Very simply
it refers to increase in prices of goods and services, calculated in percentage terms Year on Year (i.e.
prices in month of this year vs prices in same month, previous year).
8.0%
150
6.0%
140 4.0%
Inflation Index
2.0%
130
0.0%
120 -2.0%
-4.0%
110
-6.0%
100 -8.0%
Jan-13 Jan-14 Jan-15 Jan-16 Jan-17 Jan-18
CPI Combined WPI- All commodities % CPI Change (YoY)- RHS % WPI Change (YoY)- RHS
Above chart reflects CPI and WPI index, and percentage change YoY. Source: RBI
As you might have noted, there is a big difference between urban and rural index on two items, food
& beverages and housing; representing different expenditure pattern and thus the inflationary impact
witnessed by each group. Similarly, inflation actually experienced by you as an individual would always
be different from the headline numbers due to geography and different consumption pattern
compared to index weights.
While it may appear that inflation is bad, a small number is not so. Rather it is a by product of growth
in economy. As your economy grows, so does the income of people, resulting in increased demand for
goods and services and higher prices. The thing that hurts is high inflation.
Relating to the concept of inflation is hyperinflation (very high price increase) and deflation (decrease
in prices); not very relevant from the perspective of macro-economic scenario, we are in today. Google
it, if you wish to understand it more.
Role of RBI
Inflation is monitored by RBI, particularly Monetary Policy Committee (or MPC), which comprises of
three RBI members including Governor and three members nominated by GOI. MPC has been
mandated to target the inflation (CPI) at 4% level with tolerance of 2% points on either side, basically
4% +/- 2% or 2% to 6% band. MPC is a new concept, implemented during August 2016 and the inflation
target is mandated to the MPC until 31 March 2021.
MPC has monetary policy tools at their disposal and an archetypical way of managing inflation is
through interest rates. When inflation is expected to be high, interest rates are increased. This makes
borrowing expensive, resulting in lower borrowing and thus reduced money supply (i.e. the amount
of money in circulation) to be spent on goods and services, resulting in decreased demand and thus
reduced increase in prices. Similarly, with lower expected inflation, reducing the interest rates will
result in increased borrowing, thus increased money supply and therefore increased demand,
resulting in increased prices.
to buy in two years time would be less than what you can now, despite the fact that notionally your
money might have increased from 100 to 110 in two years. Eventually, we do not consume financial
numbers, but pizza and cars, rum and cigarettes, clothes and housing, education and health; and the
list goes on. And to be better off tomorrow versus today, the money needs to work and earn more
than inflation.
Interest rate
The world is infatuated with interest rates! If you consume financial media, you will note this as a
recurring theme with coverage on RBI’s Repo rate, US Fed Fund Rate, yield on Government securities,
yield on commercial papers, Marginal Cost of Lending Rate (or MCLR), home loan rates etc. etc. And
the infatuation is fare as well. Interest rates impact a wide variety of economic participants because
in some way, every body deals with debt. From Government to companies to individuals, everyone
borrows or lends money; and usually both. You might have borrowed money for education loan or
home loan, but at the same time will have some savings in FD or PF. Thus both your assets and
liabilities are impacted by changing interest rates.
Banks stands as intermediaries in this business; borrowing from one and lending to another. Parallel
to banks are debt capital markets, a market place for institutions, where one can borrow and other
lend, usually using standard form of debt (like commercial paper or Non Convertible Debentures etc.).
Standing above all, is the big Daddy, and every country has got one called the Central Bank. For India
that is RBI, acting as a gatekeeper of India’s financial system.
Whoever you are, whatever you do, your life is in some ways impacted by interest rates.
Policy rate
It is a key lending rate of a Country’s Central Bank, which it uses to influence variety of monetary
factors including inflation. ‘Policy Rate’ is the rate at which Central Bank lends to banks; banks being
intermediaries in financial system, account for this change in interest rate to price or reprice their
products to customers. This is how change in policy rates alter short term interest rates in economy.
This is a very simple representation of functioning and flow of rates; and below link is the place to go
for further understanding.
https://rbidocs.rbi.org.in/rdocs/Speeches/PDFs/DGVVAS34AEAD82174B44EA854710B1103E0988.PDF
For India, policy rate is overnight LAF (Liquidity Adjustment Facility) repo rate, set by MPC. This is the
rate at which Bank’s can borrow from Central Bank on an overnight basis under LAF. In addition to the
policy rate, Central Bank lends on other rates as well to banks and banks can also park additional cash
with Central Bank; but all these different rates are correlated to the policy rate. This policy rate is what
is mostly covered in financial media during every MPC meeting.
G-secs yields
Government securities refer to the debt issued by Government of a country. It comes in wide variety,
including different maturities from few weeks to few decades, interest rates (fixed or floating) and
currency (for info, most of GoI debt is denominated in INR). Usually, large institutional investors are
the active participants in sovereign bond market (think of Banks, mutual funds, pension funds etc.).
G-secs are practically considered to be default risk free, therefore safest option from credit risk
perspective. Of the many securities issued by GoI, FIMMDA (Fixed Income Money Market and
Derivatives Association of India) declares from time to time one bond as a Benchmark Bond. The
Benchmark Bond has remaining maturity of 10 years. This Benchmark Bond’s yield (for now think of it
as interest) is used across various indices, linked to derivatives product traded on exchanges and is
also theoretically used in implied value calculation of equities. Yield on this Benchmark Bond is what
is normally shown in financial media, when referring to 10 year sovereign yield.
Effect of taxation
Drill it down in your head, what matters is after tax returns and always always think of your return on
post-tax basis, whether it is equity or debt or any other asset class.
For discussion purposes, I have considered three simplified taxation scenarios for returns generated
on investment. So, when analysing the three scenarios, the common starting point is post tax principal
of 100 Rs i.e. no benefit of tax exemption on principal was considered, which is the case with few
investment products. The actual taxation regime is certainly more complex with lots of clauses. Also,
some part below gets a bit mathematical, but in terms of calculation, could be easily done in Microsoft
Excel.
Exempt scenarios: When the income on investment is not taxed. Neither during each year nor
during withdrawal. Typical example of this includes Provident funds & NPS. On equities, this was
the case for long term capital gains till FY18.
Future Value = Principal *(1+R)^N
Where R is the interest earned
N is the time period i.e. number of years
Accrual taxes: This scenario is applicable when the interest or income earned is taxed annually,
irrespective of whether you withdrew the money or not. Most prominent example of this is FDs
or interest earned in savings account; where the tax on income is payable every year.
Future Value = Principal *(1+R*(1-T))^N
Where R is the interest earned
T is Tax percentage
N is the time period i.e. number of years
Deferred capital gains taxes: This refers to scenarios where taxes are applicable when the money
is withdrawn i.e. the investment realized. Common example of this is debt mutual funds, where
taxes are payable when you sell the mutual fund units. On equity side, this is now the case after
implementation of long term capital gains tax.
Future Value = Principal *[(1+R)^N * (1-T) + T]
Where R is the interest earned
T is Tax percentage
N is the time period i.e. number of years
1,600
1,200
800
400
-
0 5 10 15 20 25 30
Years
Exempt Accrual Taxation Defered Capital Gain Tax
The above chart shows, the value of INR 100 invested at 10% return and taxed at 30%, under the three
taxation regimes! The lowest post tax returns are generated under accrual taxation, while the best
return is obviously under exempt scenario. Deferred capital scenario is somewhere in between. As
time passes by, the difference under three scenario keeps on increasing. Therefore, when thinking of
long term investment plans, it is very important to think from post tax basis, which includes
understanding the impact of different kind of taxation.
25,000
20,000
15,000
10,000
5,000
0
FY80 FY82 FY84 FY86 FY88 FY90 FY92 FY94 FY96 FY98 FY00 FY02 FY04 FY06 FY08 FY10 FY12 FY14 FY16 FY18
80%
60%
40%
20%
0%
FY81 FY86 FY91 FY96 FY01 FY06 FY11 FY16
-20%
-40%
Source: RBI
20.0%
15.0%
10.0%
5.0%
0.0%
FY00 FY01 FY02 FY03 FY04 FY05 FY06 FY07 FY08 FY09 FY10 FY11 FY12 FY13 FY14 FY15 FY16 FY17 FY18
-5.0%
Source: RBI; 20 year rolling CAGR, for first data point returns CAGR is from FY80 to FY00
FY16
FY90
FY91
FY92
FY93
FY94
FY95
FY96
FY97
FY98
FY00
FY01
FY02
FY03
FY04
FY05
FY06
FY07
FY08
FY09
FY10
FY11
FY12
FY13
FY14
FY15
FY17
FY18
-5%
-10%
Source: RBI; 10 year rolling CAGR, for first data point returns CAGR is from FY80 to FY90
Few things to infer from the above charts:
These are pre-tax returns, basis the relevant market price/ indices level. Historically, equities have
received a favourable tax treatment and thus equities outperformance on post-tax basis should
be higher relative to other asset classes in the index return chart.
The charts are basis annual averages of asset class. On a YoY basis, the only asset class with stable
returns has been fixed income, while equities have shown a very high volatility with sharp rises as
well as sharp draw downs.
Fixed income: CAGR returns have remained far more stable relative to any other asset class. That
is also expected from fixed income (as the name says), however, over longer periods, fixed income
tends to under-perform relative to equity, as can be seen from the indexed returns & rolling CAGR
charts.
Gold: in dollar terms has underperformed both debt and equities, however, INR returns have been
better with ‘some’ periods of outperformance on a ten year basis. INR price is a function of gold
price in dollar terms and our exchange rates and latter has also been a factor in favourable returns.
Nonetheless, gold in Inr has had long periods of underperformance relative to deposit rates, with
better returns only over last decade.
Equities: returns have been volatile, as expected from equities; and for brief periods it has
underperformed debt on even 10 year CAGR basis (early 2000s), implying, when looking at
equities, in an unfavourable scenario, even 10 year might not be a sufficient time. However, when
looking at 20 year CAGR basis, equities have consistently outperformed debt. Separately, tax
treatment is favourable towards equities and on post-tax basis, outperformance should be higher.
Real estate: We lack composite data for Real estate dating decade’s back, to analyse long term
historical returns. As per the new series of housing index, (Housing Composite Index for 50 cities), the
index has grown from 106 in quarter ending June 2013 to 126 in quarter ending March 2018, a paltry
CAGR of 3.5%.
Also, real estate is a micro market play, which is clear from the graph below, as per which prices in
some cities did not see any growth between 2007 and 2015. Even within cities, the disparity is huge
(chart of Chennai, the biggest gainer as a city further below); implying real estate as an investment is
suited to those who have deep understanding of micro-market. Investing just on the naive notion that
prices will continue their move upwards, is ill-suited from financial planning perspective; especially
when looked at illiquidity aspect and high transaction costs of the asset class.
Risk management
Oxford defines Risk as ‘a situation involving exposure to danger’.
Although, I have worked in risk department at couple of places and my hairs have started turning
white, I am yet to attain enough wisdom to talk about this subject in a sensible manner. So I will hide
my incompetence behind words of great beings who walked on this earth, and add a line of my naïve
interpretation with respect to the subject we are discussing (financial planning); although, the
whispers might have been in totally different context.
“It's better to solve the right problem approximately than to solve the wrong problem exactly”
-John Tukey, an American mathematician
Understand the problem first. It is not to generate super high returns from 10% of the portfolio that is
held in trading account, but to effectively manage the entire networth across all asset classes to
achieve financial security. The effort should be on getting the totality broadly right rather than returns
from one asset class optimally.
“The key to risk management is never putting yourself in a position where you cannot live to fight
another day”
-Richard S. Fuld, Jr.
It is ironic that such a quote comes from the person, who presided as Chairman and CEO of Lehman
Brothers during its bankruptcy. Nonetheless, the quote is fairly apt from financial planning aspect; not
to concentrate too much money in such a way that a failure of a particular trading strategy/ security
wipes you out completely, leaving no capital to fight back and grow back on.
“Risk management is a more realistic term than safety. It implies that hazards are ever-present, that
they must be identified, analyzed, evaluated and controlled or rationally accepted”
-Jerome F Ledered, American aviation safety pioneer
You can never make your portfolio 100% safe from risks; however, you must strive to identify and
analyse possible sources of risks and the adverse impact it can cause; and chose to control it or
rationally accept it. For a young professional risk from inflation needs to be controlled by targeting
higher returns, while accepting risk of volatility emanating from higher exposure towards equities.
“Outperforming the market with low volatility on a consistent basis is an impossibility. I outperformed
the market for 30-odd years, but not with low volatility”
-George Soros
I think, I will just suggest to go back to the discussion on asset classes! Higher returns, inevitably comes
with increased volatility.
Given our inevitably incomplete knowledge about key structural aspects of an ever-changing economy
and the sometimes asymmetric costs or benefits of particular outcomes, a central bank needs to
consider not only the most likely future path for the economy but also the distribution of possible
outcomes about that path. The decision makers then need to reach a judgment about the
probabilities, costs, and benefits of the various possible outcomes under alternative choices for policy.
-Alan Greenspan
I will just replace ‘economy’ with ‘life’, ‘Central Bank’ & ‘decision makers’ with ‘person’ and ‘policy’
with ‘his actions’, to read:
“Given our inevitably incomplete knowledge about key structural aspects of an ever-changing life and
the sometimes asymmetric costs or benefits of particular outcomes, a person needs to consider not
only the most likely future path for the life but also the distribution of possible outcomes about that
path. The person then needs to reach a judgment about the probabilities, costs, and benefits of the
various possible outcomes under alternative choices for his action.
Buyer beware
When you go buy a saree, have you noticed how the shopkeeper tells you that everything that you try
looks good? His objective is to sell you a saree to pocket commission and will sell you dhoti as a saree,
if you are willing to pay for it. However, while purchasing saree, unlikely that you will make a blunder
as you know your need (silk saree or cotton saree or a cheap gifting saree) and your budget. Also,
trying out few shops, gives you a fair perspective of what to expect and in what price range.
In finance industry, the situation is inverted. Unless you are adept with financial basics and know what
you are looking for; likely case would be that the person who is selling you financial product, would
also be the one advising you on how it suits your financial plan. Can you think of possible problem
here?? He is advising you on what is best for you, which would be selling you suitable product having
lowest commission (that commission is your cost), but his own personal interest is served by selling
you a product that has highest commission, irrespective of its suitability to you. How often, one is sold
what is needed versus what has fattest commission is your guess!!
Whenever you are being advised by a financial advisor, ask a few questions to them:
What is the objective of this product? Is it insurance (risk cover), or return generation (equities)
or fixed income (debt). Run away, if your financial advisor says all three. Keep things as simple as
possible, using unidimensional products that serve just one agenda.
Always, always ask about the process of breaking up a policy/ product before the term and
understand the fees and fines associated with it. Know what it costs to get out, if need be.
Get the details communicated to you on a product, over email from your advisor. I am not asking
for a brochure here, but a brief explanation of plan over email or else record the conversation
where he is explaining you the product, with his agreement. It is tragic, how often advisors explain
plan features, but would back out when it is time to give that in writing.
Ask for advisor’s commission across the products he is advising you to buy.
If he refers you to anyone else, ask him for any referral fees that he will earn.
When asking about fees he earns, do not feel shy or think it is rude. Clear disclosure of fees and
commissions to clients is considered as part of best practices in global financial industry.
Compounding
While many understand this concept mathematically, it is one of the most underappreciated and
underrated phenomenon in real world, especially with regards to personal finance.
We all have would heard that famous story, of a courtier asking rice grains as reward from king,
starting with one grain for the first square of the chessboard, two for the next square, four for the
next and with each square having double the number of grains as the square before. The emperor
happily agreed, but later found out that the rice grains calculated would not be available even in
decades. That’s how compounding works!!
The table below expands on the thought of compounding for long periods. The table represents Rs
100 invested initially, across different time periods and interest rate. If you start with Rs 100 and are
able to compound it at 30% per annum for 60 years (not that long, you start in 20s and until your
80s!!), you will end up with 69 crores, starting just with 100; that is the power of compounding.
Note that while difference between 8% and 30% wasn’t that great in first few columns, in the last
column (60 years) the ratio between 30% compounding and 8% compounding is 67,692.
Penny pinchers
Every one would have known a man, who thought of working till 40 and retiring thereafter. How many
of you know of people, who actually did that. The answer is probably no one and the reason is not
that people start loving their jobs when they turn 40, rather the realisation that their financial corpus
is not sufficient enough for their retirement needs.
The only way to build up financial corpus is by saving and investing. For the latter to happen and you
to enjoy the benefit of compounding, you need to save aggressively. Every Rupee saved is a Rupee
earned. Every time you spend money, think about it and think if it is absolutely necessary to spend
that money and if it is worth the value. Every Rupee earned from investing is as good as the money
you earn toiling in office, so work on making your money work. If your financial networth is five times
your earning, 20% return on that would be equivalent to you annual salary. So, pay good attention to
your finances, and not just to the office work.
I would like to leave this section, with few links below:
https://www.businessinsider.com/self-made-millionaires-habits-build-wealth-2017-9?IR=T
https://www.marketwatch.com/story/what-we-can-learn-from-frugal-millionaires-2018-06-25
http://www.bbc.com/capital/story/20181101-fire-the-movement-to-live-frugally-and-retire-
decades-early
https://youtu.be/RyF40JydVNU
Separately, with so many numerous accounts, policy papers, and other documents; how does one
manage the information? I have a simple thought around it, which you may find helpful, a google drive
account. Create a new account, where you park all important documents relating to family, financial
plans, land documents etc. etc. The benefit is, account could be accessed remotely and with new age
apps, you can scan a physical document instantly through your mobile phone to park it over in your
Google drive account.
Sense of networth & tracker
When you think of personal finance, do not think of isolated pools of revenue and expenses i.e. this
money is for car purchase, this is for house purchase etc. etc. That concept is called bucketing and it
might be helpful in certain situations, but the idea of wider goal and overarching theme of ‘networth’
should not be missed out. When you think in terms of networth, you think of all the money held across
different accounts, financial products and real assets, less the financial debt (home, or personal loan
etc.). And the target is to grow this networth over a period of time, not just a segregated pool of
money invested in equities or that real estate exposure.
While some can go around making a crazy model on this, as a basic simple start, you can think of using
Excel from the previous sub-section, where-in you had listed down various accounts. As a next step,
at every quarter end, write down the amount held across various accounts/ holdings. Gradually, over
a period of time, you will have lot of data points to see how your networth is growing, which parts are
lagging, which are doing well for you etc. etc.
Know thyself
While this Greek aphorism was whispered in a totally different context; I will interpret that in personal
finance as knowing your long term financial objectives and having a roadmap to achieve those
objectives. This is more so important because financial media creates more noise than news, financial
industry witnesses shockingly adverse events every few years, in between all this your neighbourhood
uncle tries to sell you an ill suited plan which suits his pocket by way of fat commissions. Thus ever so
important is to have a clarity of thought, clearly articulated objectives and a proper plan to achieve
those goals. The financial roadmap differs from individual to individual depending on multitude of
factors, of which we touch briefly on some below:
Financial objective
This exercise will vary greatly in its output, dependent on the person’s age, his existing financial
position and family liabilities. Broadly, if I have to think of financial objective, I can think of:
Retirement corpus: The amount of money you require for retirement depends on a lot of variables,
including expected retirement age, expected inflation, expected life span after retirement, expected
return across asset classes etc. etc. It is impossible as an individual to get everything right to perfection
in planning for retirement.
Thumb rule is 25-30 times of annual expenses as retirement corpus, this number might be better off
for those thinking of retiring at 60. If you are planning to retire early, let’s say by 40, you should shore
up your numbers a bit so as not to run out of your capital during your last days. Also, this 25-30x thumb
rule is in real money terms i.e. as at retirement, your corpus should be 25x of today’s annual expenses,
increasing at the rate of inflation every year.
To give you a sense of estimate and urgency of savings, google ‘retirement calculator India’, and the
results follows long list of websites, some from very respectable financial institutions of this country.
You can enter your current age, expected retirement age, savings etc., to arrive at monthly savings
contribution needed for your retirement. The results from any two websites are unlikely to match
exactly, as a lot goes in these calculations, but an average result from 4-5 websites should be a good
starting point as an estimate of money you need to save monthly for retirement. It is just a one minute
task, so in total we are talking about 5 minutes to get an average estimate across 5 websites.
Children: I am clubbing the two aspects of children here together, education and marriage. While
estimating monthly savings target, you first need to have an estimate of expense in present money
terms. Similar to the above exercise, google ‘child financial planning calculator India’. This list that
shows up, try estimating numbers at 4-5 websites, again in totality a five minute task.
Also, please do not kill me for saying, in my personal opinion, both these expenditure are
discretionary. While, you might want to provide the best college education money can buy, wiping out
your savings and retirement nest for that might not be a good idea. In today’s setup, kid has ample
financing scope in form of education loans, so as not to be dependent on the parent’s financial nest.
Coming down to marriage, overtly expensive event that drain out your financial strength & wipes out
your saving, is an act of stupidity and unadvisable.
Home purchase: This section just pertains to estimating contribution for home purchase. There is a
slightly more detailed section later on the topic.
You will have an estimate of the house you are targeting, a one BHK / two BHK etc and estimated cost
in today’s term. Go back to the kid’s calculator above and forget about kid’s education. Enter
estimated cost of house in education expenses and in inflation, enter expected increase in house
prices. The result will help you estimate the amount of money needed on a monthly basis to
accumulate corpus for house purchase. If you are planning to buy on loan and want to estimate
contribution for down payment, enter the expected down payment amount, instead of the value of
entire house.
Other goals: there could be other desires like leaving some money for children or donating some
particular amount to a charity or anything else. Feel free to list that down and estimate the expected
monthly contributions towards it.
While you do the monthly contribution exercise and estimate monthly contributions for each of the
objectives, do note that most of these contributions estimated are static i.e. estimated at one level
only across the investment horizon; however, your salary will grow with time, so shall your savings,
and an opportunity to increase those savings amount with time to achiever better outcome than
desired.
Also, the exercise you did is not part of physics and with that I mean a task of precision. However good
you are, you can’t predict inflation for 20 years, neither can you estimate returns for that long a period.
The task of the exercise is to help you estimate broad savings level required towards your financial
goals. As time passes by, your personal financial landscape will change & so shall your plan and
monthly savings. You will have to keep revisiting your estimates time and again (preferably at least
once a year), to make sure you are on the right path.
For those who are just starting with their jobs and have no idea of their own marriage, leave aside kids
marriage, the above might appear futile and academic. But certainly, what is not futile is aggressively
saving and investing that amount. I cannot stress this enough, how beneficial saving and investing
early on is, go back to the compounding section if you have any doubt.
Cash flow assessment & savings rate
Previous discussion was on how much you need to save for your various financial goals. The next step
is estimating whether you can realistically save that amount or not. For that:
List down all the income sources that you have. This would include your and spouse salary, any
rental income & any other business or side income.
In the above, do not include returns from financial investments. As you remember, you have
already used that investment income in the previous section (in expected return form), when you
were arriving at the monthly contributions. This would be double counting.
List down your monthly expenses and monthly average for regular one-offs like purchase of
phones etc.
Once you have your salary and expenses, estimate the monthly savings that you can keep up with,
going forward.
Check the above number against:
Historical savings: If you are estimating a huge increase in your savings compared to your recent
past, understand the reason behind it. Is it because you will switch from Scotch to Old Monk, or
you will tell your wife to go to neighbourhood salon instead of Lakme!! You need to have a fair
estimate of the drivers behind increase in savings compared to your recent past.
Your desired savings from previous subsection: Check the estimated savings versus the desired
saving number from previous subsection. The two should marry each other, if your estimated
savings is less than the desired savings number, modify your financial goals and repeat the steps,
until the numbers are broadly inline.
Risk appetite
This is the last puzzle piece in the know-thyself section. What number for expected return did you use
in retirement planning calculators? One closer to historical FD rates or the one closer to historical
equity returns? The number should be guided by your portfolio asset allocation; which would depend
upon your risk appetite. In broad sense, risk appetite refers to your capacity to invest across risky
assets and is a function of both, your financial situation & goals; and mental ability to sustain volatility.
Formally, the two are called, ability to take risk and willingness to take risks. Let’s see one by one,
what it refers to:
Ability to take risks: Ability here refers to ability of your financial plan and goal to withstand volatility
or ups and downs. Now if you think about it, what will give you that increased ability?
Amount of surplus: If you have 100 but you require only 80, you can invest that 100 aggressively,
so that even in case of some losses, your financial goals are not jeopardized. Conversely, if you
require 100 but you have just 80; you can’t invest that 80 in riskier products, that it becomes 60,
further straining your financial position & distance from goal.
Longer time horizon: refers to, how many years you have for your goals. If it is decades away, you
have higher capacity to take risks. At 30, you can afford ups and downs of equities, if you are
building your retirement corpus for age 60. However, at 58 and two years to retirement, your
ability to withstand a huge drawdown from fall in equities is much less than at 30.
Plan flexibility: While you may target certain level of lifestyle and expenditure from your
retirement fund, if your expenditure is a bit flexible and could be cut down in adverse scenarios
that increases your ability to take risks. If you were planning for extensive and expensive holidays
as part of retirement expense, something you are happy to cut down in case of adverse financial
scenario that increases ability to take risks.
Stability of job and earnings: Simply, a stable and secure job increases your ability to take risks,
while an unstable job (possible firings) or uneven salary, reduces your ability.
Willingness to take risks: This is the psychological aspect of risk taking and refers to how comfortable
you are mentally with losses. There is no mathematical way to measure it and it keeps on changing as
you grow and are shaped by various experiences. Also, this factor is shaped by your understanding of
how different asset classes function over time and your personal experience with various financial
products/ investments.
The reason willingness is separate from ability is because although you might have higher ability to
take risks and sustain a short or medium term loss in your portfolio; but due to behavioural factors,
losses might stress you out and you might sell your positions at worst possible time. Even worse could
be that losses result in stress and impacts your health.
Risk appetite: is determined both by ability and willingness to take risks. While it is tricky to identify
risk appetite of a person; one should spend some thought on the above factors and identify his ability
and willingness on a scale of 1 to 5 and average the two to arrive at risk appetite.
Thereafter, google ‘Risk profile calculator India’ and ‘risk profile questionnaire India’. The initial search
results will give you links to some online quiz and pdfs with scoring methods, from some of the known
financial institutions. Score at least 4-5 of these. The output would likely be a qualitative description
like ‘aggressive’ or ‘moderately aggressive’, and will help you understand your risk appetite!!
Stitching it all together
The three steps that you conducted, should tie up together and hold up together. What I mean here
is:
Your desired monthly savings (sum of retirement, kids, home etc.) depends on expected return on
on investment in calculation. Your estimate for this expected return should be in line with your
portfolio structure, which should be in conjunction with your risk appetite. If your risk appetite is
very low (maybe you are nearing retirement age), your expected return should be closer to returns
from fixed income asset class, while if you have very high appetite for risk, your expected return
should be closer to average returns generated from equity.
Your estimated savings for future, should be inline with desired savings for your goals. If not, you
probably need to modify your future goals and lessen your expectation.
As time passes by, your financial objectives might change, your financial health and savings ability
might change and so might be change in your personality, driving changes in risk appetite. Overall,
appreciate that this will remain a fluid exercise, so keep revisiting your estimates at least annually.
Timely pay
Credit card credit card Savings account-1
bills
Credit card for monthly expense: This point is very well articulated by the con-man himself, Frank
Abagnale, on whom the movie ‘Catch me if you can is based’, in an appearance on google talk. Follow
the below link and although entire video is worth listening, if short on time, start from 43:10.
https://youtu.be/vsMydMDi3rI
Every time you swipe your debit card, despite the technology, you expose yourself to a possible
financial fraud, by leaving digital foot prints. Credit cards help you avoid that exposure and provide
free one month liquidity. While you use credit card, do not use it as a personal loan tool.
Also, I have seen some people having half a dozen card, personally, I think two are good enough for
any person. You do not need so many cards, it just adds on to the complexity and eat away brain
space. To consolidate family expense, you can also think of add-on card for your spouse/ kids instead
of separate cards for everyone.
Savings account-1: This is your primary transaction account.
Receive all your salary and income (except investment income) in this account. Pay all your credit
card bills and other expenses from this account.
As soon as you receive your salary, transfer 75% of targeted monthly savings to the Savings
account-2. Also, transfer the balance savings from last month, as you had just transferred 75% of
expected savings from previous month.
Savings account-2: This is your road to wealth and financial security. Do not use this account for any
expense, be it on debit card or net banking or transfer back to the SA-1 for buying that new phone (it
can wait). Ideally this should just be a one way account where in every month it receives monthly
savings from SA-1.
Use this account as a conduit for your investment accounts i.e. demat, mutual funds, etc. Also, this
can be the account where you maintain that emergency fund of a lakh or two.
Investment accounts: These refer to demats/ trading/ NPS and other investment accounts one might
be holding.
Practice, practice and practice, until you get the flow right and are able to control your expenses, to
achieve desired monthly savings.
around 80% to 20%-40% over a period of 15-20 years (targeting retirement age), with proportionate
increase in fixed income allocation. Third stage is again a static portfolio stage with lower but static
proportion of equity.
Impact on portfolio planning: The approach you use for asset allocation needs to be in conjunction
with your risk appetite and you can fine tune it by a few percentage points, as per your thoughts.
These are thumb rules, to help you guide on broad allocation decisions. Exact asset proportion on a
daily average basis will always vary from desired, because the returns from asset classes would be
different; covered below in portfolio rebalancing. So, try to get the broad totality right, rather than
what is the best split up to last decimal.
Once you have decided on the strategy and asset allocation; the proportion might be significantly
different to your existing proportion. Do not take plunge the next day and deploy large proportion of
your assets into equities. Do so gradually, over a few months to couple of years, to minimize market
timing risks. After 2007 equities crash, it took a lot of time for markets to come back to the previous
peak level and you don’t want to be in a position wherein you put half your portfolio in equities a day
before the peak. So spread out your time period of increasing equity allocation. We are talking about
decades of investing here, so a couple of quarters to build your allocation is fine.
Separately, when planning and opting for your asset allocation plan, be vary of your short and medium
term goals. If you intend to buy a house or marry your daughter, expense which might be large
proportion of your financial networth, plan and gradually reduce your equity exposure over few years
to fund such expenses.
Portfolio rebalancing
Whether you chose static or dynamic or target dated approach, almost always the actual portfolio
split across asset classes will differ from the desired proportions due to different returns across asset
class. This will result in the need to rebalance the portfolio and realign it to target weights. There are
two common approaches to the rebalancing:
Calendar rebalancing: At set dates (quarterly would be too frequent for individuals, chose semi-annual
or annual), you rebalance the portfolio to desired weights. The benefit of this approach is that you do
not need to track portfolio weights in between but look at only on set dates.
Percentage of Portfolio rebalancing: In this, every asset class is given a band around its target
allocation and the portfolio is rebalanced, whenever asset classes breaches the upper or lower band.
As an example, if you are following 50:50 approach and have a band of 10%, you rebalance the
portfolio when equity reaches above 60% or falls below 40%. The issue with this approach from
individual’s perspective is that it requires constant monitoring, as you do not know, when equity will
cross the threshold.
In practice, I would suggest to have a mix of two approaches. Monitor at specific intervals, and have a
band around desired asset weights. If proportion of asset class is outside the band on that specific
date, rebalance otherwise do not. Rebalancing just for the sake of it to get the proportion correct to
last decimal, will result in increased transaction costs and effort.
being chunky and you can’t sell half a room of the property to rebalance the portfolio to desired
weights.
Gold: Count gold value in portfolio that is held in financial form with sole objective to gain from price
movement. Keep jewellery outside of the portfolio calculations (unless very substantial proportion),
as it is not held with primary purpose of benefiting from higher prices, has emotional value and is an
asset of last resort.
Investing in equities
There are a few ways, by which one can invest in equities.
Thematic funds- funds that invest basis a particular theme like MNCs, Energy etc.
International fund- targets international equities, with geography depending on the stated region.
Some could be investing in ASEAN, other could be US while some other could be investing in
International equities of a certain sector. Do note, that international funds are taxed as debt funds.
Value Oriented- Funds investing with value based themes. Value funds invest in stocks trading
below intrinsic value i.e. equities that are undervalued by the market. Value vs Growth investing
has been a subject of plenty of debates and you will find enough arguments on both sides and
performance favouring one over another depending on the time period analysed.
ELSS- Tax savers fund, requires three year lock-in and are tax deductible under 80C.
Hybrids- Those that invest in both debt and equity. They have a few sub divisions, basis there
weightage to debt and equity.
Splitting your equity pool
Again, there is nothing cast in stone, however, would suggest to split your equity pool into four to five
sub-pools, targeting either a different investment approach or sub-section of equity markets. This is
not relevant for active investors who understand equity markets and invest entire money on their
own.
Direct investing or PMS: If you are not an expert and keen to learn direct investing, do it with a
sub-pool of equities and not with all of your asset. Alternatively, you can also invest in a PMS as
part of one of the sub-pools.
Market cap based pool: Plan two sub-pools, targeting different market caps of the large cap, mid
cap and small cap. As you go down the path from large cap to small cap, expected returns tend to
be higher, but so is the volatility. Chose, basis your comfort.
International funds: Use this sub-pool to gain exposure to international equities and diversify away
from domestic markets. Ideally this pool should be targeting a developed market, as your
domestic market is an emerging market and thus from the purpose of diversification, an
international fund targeting developed equity markets makes more sense. Be careful on the tax
part, international funds although investing in equities are taxed the same way as debt mutual
fund.
ELSS: Possibly amongst the best tax savings instruments providing exposure to equities. The size
of this pool would depend on amount invested for tax savings vs overall savings pool.
Value oriented funds: There exists a few schemes investing basis this scheme and one can look to
add value oriented funds as one of the sub-pool.
Sectoral and thematic funds: Personally I am not a big fan of sectoral and thematic funds from the
perspective of long term investing (with that I mean decade or multi decade long investing), as
the sectors and themes that play out will keep on changing. This would make sense for a person
who reads and understands financial markets and is adept at changing the course and rotate
sectoral allocations. If you are one such person who can broadly time the sector and themes, put
one sub-pool here.
Hybrid funds: These funds invest in both equities and debt. Although one should keep it simple
and allocate to debt & equity separately, there is a good case for ‘aggressive hybrid funds’. These
funds invest at least 65% of the funds in equity, with proportion going up to 80% and at least 20%
in debt with maximum of up to 35%. The benefit of these funds is that these are treated as equity
funds for the purpose of taxation. So although, fund might have 30% allocation to debt, the tax
pay-out on the entire income is basis the equity slabs, which is favourable compared to debt.
While investing here, be mindful of allocation split between the two asset classes and that should
also be incorporated in your portfolio asset allocation.
credit defaults. The reason I said ‘expected’ credit cost is built into the interest rate is because actual
credit losses, you will get to know only later on. In the above example, basis expectation of default by
three companies you charged higher interest; however, once the loan is extended, could be that all of
them repay back (gain for lender) or also the possibility that default rates are higher than the 3%
expected initially (loss for the lender).
Although banks have their own credit department for assessing creditworthiness of borrowers to
approve loans; there are also institutions called rating agencies, which assess company’s finances and
provides credit rating. These credit ratings are provided as per rating scale of the agency and are
available on their website (google ‘credit rating scale’). The scales follow a similar pattern across
agencies, with AAA considered as most credit worthy, followed by AA, A, BBB, BB and so on until D.
Where D represents that obligor is in default. Agencies in India include Crisil, Icra, Care and others;
while S&P, Moody’s and Fitch are the prominent global ones, providing ratings across countries and
continents.
As you go down the rating scale, borrower’s creditworthiness declines and thus the interest on loans
increases, to compensate for the expected credit loss.
From the instruments we discussed earlier, PPF is credit risk free (as they have a backing of GoI), while
FDs carry very low credit risks as the banks are very highly rated. Mutual funds invest across debt
types, basis individual scheme objective with some investing in Government securities, others
investing in high rated companies, while some may target lower quality borrowers. The credit quality
they seek to invest in, is usually stated in scheme objective; and is as per the Sebi categorization
guidelines.
Interest rate risk: is the risk of change in prices of fixed income securities from unexpected change in
interest rates.
Sounds cryptic? Let’s take an example. Yesterday, you bought three separate bonds with maturity of
one year, five year and ten year; each at 100 Rs, having 100 Rs principal amount and paying 10%
interest per annum. Today, after central bank meeting, interest rates increased and new loans are
made at 11%. You went to sell your three loans of different maturities in debt capital markets, at the
same price you bought the bonds at i.e. at 100 Rs, but why would anyone buy Bonds from you when
they are getting higher interest of 11% on new bonds being issued today. You will have to lower your
price, so that buyer is effectively getting the same return whether he buys from you or the new bonds
paying 11% interest. How much do you need to lower the prices?
For the one year bond, approximately by 1%. So, you sell the bond at 99 Rs. The buyer at the end
of the year gets 110 Rs (100 principal and 10 interest) on investment of 99 Rs i.e. 11% vs the 11%
he would have made if he invested in fresh bonds issued today at 100 Rs with 11% interest.
For the five year bond by approximately 5%. You sell the bond at 95 Rs. If he bought a new bond,
he would have received 11% interest every year and 100 Rs principal at the end of five years.
When he buys the older bond from you, he will receive 10% interest every year and the lower one
percent interest each year would be compensated by way of increase in bond price by one Rs
every year from 95 at which he bought to 100 at the end of five year period.
For the ten year bond, the answer would be approximately 10%, with similar concept i.e. price
increasing by one Rs every year from 90 Rs today to 100 Rs at the end of ten years.
Similarly to above example, instead of increase in interest rates, if the rates were to decrease by 1%
to 9% percent, that would have resulted in increase of bond prices, a gain for you.
So one thing gets clear, longer the tenor of Bond, higher is the impact on its price for similar change
in interest rates. Mathematically, this is measured by ‘Duration’, which represents weighted average
maturity of all of the bonds cash flow. Weighted average means, the ten year bond also pays 10%
interest every year, so its weighted average maturity would be slightly less than ten years, when the
bond is to be repaid. There are different types of duration and ‘Modified Duration’ is used for price
change calculations. Also, exact price change is also impacted although to a smaller extent by
something called as ‘convexity’. But if you understood the basic idea of interest rate risk i.e. longer
the term of the bond, higher interest rate risk it carries, you should be fine. Let fund manager worry
about the formulas and decimal changes.
Generic gyan
Direct vs Regular fund: Mutual fund schemes are offered in two types, direct and regular fund.
Regular funds pay brokerage to your advisor/ platform from which you purchased the fund; while
a direct fund does not. So, naturally a ‘Regular fund’ will have higher expense and thus lower
return by the commission amount paid out to advisors. Avenues for buying ‘Direct’ schemes are
limited and as far as I remember, you can buy it from platforms like Mutual Fund Utilities, Zerodha,
Paytm and also directly from mutual fund house websites. There can be other platforms as well
offering investment in direct funds.
Mutual funds are subject to market risks: What it means is that your return from a mutual fund
would be dependent on markets and that is applicable for both debt and equity. Sharp correction
in equity markets will lead to losses in your equity funds; but not that debt is insulated. If there is
a default by a company (remember IL&FS), whose bonds are held in fund scheme, will result in
losses. Similarly, for higher duration funds, increase in interest rates will result in losses due to
price changes.
Active funds: Mutual funds are active funds i.e. fund manager of a mutual fund tries to generate
additional return over the benchmark, whether he succeeds or not is another story. Some funds
will succeed while some might fail at beating their benchmark.
Benchmark: What is a benchmark? It is an index that closely reflects the funds stated investment
style. For a large cap fund the benchmark could be Nifty Fifty or BSE-100; while for a pharma fund
benchmark could be Nifty Pharma. Comparing with Benchmarks helps understand whether the
fund manager performed better or not relative to the index of his targeted style.
Diversification: For direct investment in equities, it is recommended to achieve adequate level of
diversification by investing in 18-20 securities. But do you need 18-20 mutual funds as well to be
adequately diversified?? The answer is no. Every fund is already diversified in itself, holding
multiple securities. One should not overcomplicate and should look at adding only one or two
funds for each of the asset sub-pools.
SIP or lump sump investing: It is actually not a relevant question. Savings and retirement planning
is a regular monthly process, so by design you should be investing monthly. Buy in lump sum every
month or open a SIP, hardly matters. SIP may just ease out things operationally. Separately, if you
are setting up your portfolio and asset allocations for the first time, increase your exposure to
equities gradually to avoid market timing risks.
Benefits
Tax exemption: Contribution of 50,000 is exempted over and above section 80C. That is a great
head start for an investment product vs other options, especially when you are in higher tax
bracket of 30%. Further, the return generated is entirely tax free during accumulation phase as
well as retirement phase, a great benefit for long term compounding.
Investment options: Although it is slightly complicated, but NPS offers good flexibility in managing
the investment options. By opting for an Active plan, one can select desired asset allocation mix
to a large extent, as per his asset allocation targets. If not, one can chose one of the Lifecycle
options, of which Aggressive Life Cycle Fund, resembles a target dated fund approach.
Drawbacks
40% Annuity: Annuities are not the best products when it comes to return and compulsory
requirement of purchasing an annuity from 40% of the corpus is a slight drawback.
Illiquid: You can’t sip in to this asset as and when you need and have to wait until retirement age
(60). It gets worse, if you plan to retire early and liquidate the plan, you are required to purchase
annuity of 80% of the value. Although I see it as an issue, it is not a major one, given the fact that
you can plan for liquid pools elsewhere in your asset allocation.
Overall, the primary benefit of investing in NPS comes from the 50K additional tax deduction and as
long as one gets that benefit and is in a financially good shape, to afford an illiquid asset for a long
period of time, one should take benefit of the plan to the tax exempt limit.
Travel: This is possibly the most neglected point in search for own roof. I have seen friends who
could live quite close to office on rent but travel 2 hours each way, because they bought a house
at the edge of a city, only place where they could afford to buy a property. If you are intending to
do such a thing, make sure you are up for long city travels, usually in public transport (as Uber and
Ola could be quiet expensive for such long distances). I would suggest once you have zeroed in on
such an area, try living there for a month on rent and travel to office everyday. If you are
comfortable, go ahead and buy your dream home.
After a deep thought you have finally decided to go ahead and buy a house. Now you are looking for
properties, but how expensive a house can you afford? I do not think there is a fixed and clear cut
answer to that, and it would depend on your age (or rather working age left), salary (family’s take
home cash salary), monthly spare cash after expenses, desired level of saving for important goals and
your existing networth. I think one can look at two ways to approach this question:
If you remember the ‘Know thyself’ section, you would have already done this exercise to estimate
and contribute towards home purchase. After purchase, monthly savings towards down payment
would be replaced by home loan EMI. Make sure, your retirement corpus is not wiped out and
EMI burden is not so much that you can’t contribute to your retirement corpus.
The other approach could be to invert and analyse, what you can’t afford. Any house for which
you are wiping out your entire savings for just 20-30% down payment and for balance you are
taking 20 year home loan with EMI that makes up 50% of your salary, is something that’s out of
your reach. Industry thumb rule is that EMI should not be more than 30%-40% of take home salary,
but even this could be unaffordable if it leaves you with no cash to save for retirement.
In my personal opinion, sweetest spot to buy a property is late thirties or early forties. This is a stage,
when a person is broadly settled in terms of professional and personal journey, with hopefully
adequate savings to afford a down payment and still having a long work life ahead to afford a long
tenured EMI based loan.
Insurance cover is a nominal amount: what it means is that the amount remains fixed over the term
of the policy and does not increase with time. If you remember the inflation discussion, 100 Rs today
is not going to be equal to 100 Rs in future. How do you tackle this problem and ensure adequate risk
cover. Buy insurance policy with some bit foresight i.e. think of your salary and liabilities three to five
years down the line in future, when assessing insurance adequacy today. Also, repeat the insurance
adequacy assessment process every few years or in case of major change in your financial liability; and
adjust your cover accordingly.
Insurance plan riders: Understand one thing in finance, there is no free lunch. The benefit that you are
purchasing is adequately priced-in in terms of probabilities by actuaries. So do not just add all the
riders thinking it is cheap, but look at what might be suited to you and your life style. For a brief
discussion, I would highlight two riders:
Critical illness rider: This rider provides for additional benefit payable as lump-sump or periodically
in case of diagnosis of critical illness. These usually include cancer, heart attack, cardiac surgery
and kidney failure. Always read the fine print of what is included and excluded in the above.
Guaranteed insurability rider: As discussed above, insurance needs might change with time and
thus you might need to increase the cover. This rider provides option to increase the insurance
cover without further medical examination, regardless of the state of your health. Basically this
rider allows you to increase your policy amount in future and guarantees your insurability. Again
read the fine print for T&Cs.
Beneficiary selection: If you have both parents and wife as dependent; and have had disharmony in
past, split the amount in insurance policies. Do not just assume that once you are dead, your parents
will happily take care of your wife or vice versa. I am not replaying script of Baghbaan here, but be
aware of such possibilities and ensure well being of both your dependents, by splitting the insured
amount legally.
Investment advisor selection: In most cases, investment decision maker in a family is also the primary
earning member and one with largest insurance cover. After death of that person, family will receive
a large amount of pay-out, in multiples of annual income. Now this pay-out needs to be properly
managed, as this corpus is to support the family for years and in some cases decades. Think of a
financially adept person, whom you can rely on in your absence to guide your family members through
financial decision making. Discuss about the name of that person with your family members and once
zeroed in, apprise that person of the responsibility that you expect him to take-on, in case of your
unfortunate absence.
Declaration to insurance companies: Be as detailed as you can be here. Be thorough, when declaring
family and self medical history. Always always declare if you smoke or drink. Do not fear, what your
parents will think of, if they read the policy document! You are buying risk cover for your family and
the last thing you want is the cover to be rejected for misdeclaration.
Also, if you seek any clarifications from the insurance company, seek it directly from their call centre
and record that conversation for reference in future. If seeking explanations from advisor, make sure
that person is a representative of that insurance company and get the explanation in writing, over
paper or email.
Selecting an insurance company: There are articles aplenty on online forums and websites guiding you
on how to select insurance company. My few cents here are:
Do not fear purchasing insurance from a private insurer! These private companies operate in a
well regulated industry, so they can’t pack their bags and runaway next day, if that is your fear.
Buy insurance from one of the leading insurers, by leading I mean top 4 or 5 of the country.
Although, going with majority does not necessarily mean that you are opting for the best or the
cheapest option, it just gives some mental peace knowing the scale of operations.
Always look at the historical claims settlement ratio of the company. Good ones will have it around
or above 97%. Just google ‘Irda claim settlement ratio term insurance’ and you will get ample links
with latest claim settlement ratio, average pay-outs etc.
Health insurance
While the section below is short guiding you to links, managing health risks is very important. It can
wreak havoc on financial savings.
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/health-spending-pushed-55-million-indians-into-poverty-
in-a-year-study/articleshow/64564548.cms
Selecting an apt health insurance, as per your family needs is a bit more complicated than selecting a
term plan. There are plenty of articles that you can search, I will share just one link here!
https://www.quora.com/What-should-I-look-for-when-buying-health-insurance-in-India
The answers in above link, include some relevant industry people, so worth a read.
I have just one pointer here:
Insurance sum is a nominal amount: It is the nominal value i.e. the cover remains fixed over life time.
So, if you think 5 lakhs is sufficient for your life; this 5 lakh at 10% medical inflation, in 10 years time
will be 13 lakhs and in 20 years time, will be 34 lakhs. 20 years is not a distant horizon, it is just half of
your working age of 20-60.
To add here, some policies have sub-limit on room expense. While the overall amount you chose might
be sufficient, think from the perspective of inflation on room rent as well.
Check-list
Do not be overwhelmed by the list of tasks. Although, saying, it is one time exercise would be incorrect,
as financial planning requires continuous monitoring and action. However, setting up the financial
framework initially is certainly more tedious. Once you have the broad framework ready & under
implementation, following it up on a regular basis will not demand more than a few hours in a month.
Further, financial plans is about decades, so you do not have to rush through all the tasks tonight or
this week or this month. Have a realistic timeline of setting your house in order! That should not be a
month or a quarter, rather a few quarters. Split the wider target into smaller doable tasks and
approach them one by one. Slow, as it might be but take ‘conscious’ steps towards your finances.
Assuming, only a few hours every weekend, below, can serve as a basic timeline for getting your plan
into action. Feel free to modify as per your need & speed.
Month 1:
Current listing: List down all of your/ families accounts, policies, investments etc. All the holes,
where your money is parked.
Understand underlying asset class for investment products, current risk cover you have, any
onerous policies or investments that are not efficient from fees or return perspective.
By the end of the month, target to have an understanding of your current networth, how it is split
across accounts, products & asset class.
Month 2 & 3:
Risk cover: Get adequate life and health cover. The task is not simple, you will have to read about
policies and clauses, introspect on your need, get into action and sign-up for a policy.
Account planning: Plan on how you want to consolidate your accounts and structure your cash
flow. You might want to read on features of credit card, savings account, fees on brokerage
accounts etc. Have a clear structure in your head, of how the money will flow around accounts
and damns (investment accounts) where it will be collected.
Month 4 & 5:
Account opening: If you want to structure your plan around existing accounts, less work for you.
Else take these two months to open up various accounts, link them together and get them up and
running.
Understand your plan & targets: Go through the steps of know thyself section i.e. plan your goals,
estimate desired savings for those goals and targeted asset allocation, basis your risk-appetite.
Month 6 & 7:
Cash flow management: With all accounts set up, desired goals and monthly savings estimated,
try saving as per your estimates and start working on your cash flow model i.e. money flow across
expense and investment accounts.
Fund selection: Now that you have desired asset allocation targets, plan and select the funds for
each of the asset class.
Tracker: Build a simple tracker in excel, listing down your account and relevant details like owners,
nominees and any other important details.
Months 8 & 9:
Consolidating it all: Gradually move your existing investments into the new funds and inline with
your desired allocation. If current equity exposure is low, build it up slowly over a couple of
quarters/ years and until then, park it in fixed income assets.
Old onerous products: Some policies and products might have high penalty on liquidation. Do a
cost benefits analysis; and if the costs are high, let the products run-off naturally.
Closures: Start closing the accounts that you do not need, I mean credit cards, brokerage accounts,
savings account etc. Close whatever is not part of your framework; no point keeping it just because
it is free.
Hopefully, by the end of one year, you will have a simple enough financial structure to pass one hour
hour test and are able to list down, all your money across accounts & products with underlying asset
classes.
Going forward:
Maintain the networth tracker, listing down your money and asset allocation, at least every
quarter. Look into any major variations. Check, and asses, if monthly savings are not inline with
target.
Rebalance asset allocation every six-months or a year, a period you chose.
Annually revisit your financial goals, planned monthly savings and targeted asset allocation; and
modify them basis developments during the year.
Revisit risk covers (life and health) every three to five years.
If there has been any major event, like addition or passing away of family member, substantial
inheritance etc.; reassess and restructure your plans.
About myself
A victim of inflation, laziness and carelessness. Yes, I dedicated this work to myself!! and my
unfortunate brethren.
Email: narenderkrishnani88@gmail.com
Website: http://financialplanningsimplehai.com
(under construction! Update to this work (if any) shall be shared on the website)