Reorder Code: 55719

25 Litre Super Reflux Edition: June08

Assembly
Situate the still on a firm heat resistant base close by a cold water tap, drain and power socket. Your Still Spirits Super Reflux
Still comes complete with a packet of Still Spirits Ceramic Saddles. Add the Still Spirits Ceramic Saddles to the condenser, mak-
ing sure that the wire mesh is sitting flat in the base of the condenser chamber. Fit the Condenser to the Still Lid and tighten se-
curely. To do this, remove the Still Lid, unscrew the bolt from the Condenser, insert the bolt from the inside of the Still Lid
through the hole and screw back into the Condenser. Refit the Still Lid. Fit the thermometer so that the bulb appears on the inside
of the black bung by 20mm (4/5ths of an inch). Then fit the bung & thermometer to the top of the Condenser.

Cleaning & Sterilisation

Your 25 litre (6.5 US Gallon) Super Reflux Still is made from Stainless Steel. It is very important that you empty the Still after
each use and rinse it out with clean water and then dry it thoroughly. Do not use corrosive cleaners on your still.

Everything used in the fermentation process must be cleaned and sanitised before and after use. This includes the fermenter (pail),
airlock and stirrer. For optimum sterilising, we recommend Still Spirits “No Rinse” Steriliser.

Fermentation (Using: Still Spirits Classic Turbo Yeast with 6kg (13.2 lbs) Still Spirits Turbo Sugar)
1. Add 21 litres (5.5 US Gallons) of water at 40°C (104°F) to a sterilized Brewcraft 30 litre (8 US Gallon) Fermenter or
similar.
2. Add 6kgs (13.2 lbs) of Still Spirits Turbo Sugar and stir until dissolved. Once the sugar has been added to the water it
should have settled at 35°C (95°F).
3. Add a Still Spirits Classic Turbo Yeast sachet to produce an alcoholic Wash. Each Still Spirits Classic Turbo Yeast sa-
chet contains a mix of yeast and nutrients to make 25 litres (6.6 US Gallons) of Wash and produce alcohol that is extremely
low in by-products.
4. The wash should ferment in an area where the room temperature is between 18°C to 30°C (64-86°F). When the air tem-
perature is above 33°C (91°F) it’s important to use Still Spirits Heat Wave Turbo Yeast instead as it is able to deliver ex-
cellent quality alcohol in hot conditions.
5. Part fill the U of the Airlock with water and fit to the fermenter to prevent any oxygen, bacteria or insects getting in during
fermentation. Within 24 hours carbon dioxide should start bubbling through the airlock if the wash is working correctly and
the fermenter is sealed properly. If the gas does not start to bubble through the airlock, then loosen the top and have a look
inside. The wash should be bubbling and will probably have a foam or froth on top. If the wash is not bubbling and there is
no froth around the top of the wash then check the temperature is in the recommended range.
6. A vigorous stir at this stage with a sterilised paddle (not wooden) will speed up fermentation. Stir gently to begin with to
avoid a froth build up.
7. Fermentation can take as little as 3 days. In cooler weather it could take up to 7 days. For the first 24-48 hours, heat is gen-
erated from the fermentation process. DO NOT ADD ANY HEAT DURING THIS TIME. After this period a Brewcraft
Heater Pad may be used in cooler weather to maintain the temperature.

Fermentation is complete when the yeast has used up all the sugar. There will be no bubbles rising through the wash and the wash
hydrometer reading will have been static for two days. Float the hydrometer into the wash, and take the reading where the surface
level of the liquid cuts across the scale on the hydrometer; the reading should be about 990. Remember to take care when handling
hydrometers. They are very delicate.

Wash Treatment
To remove all carbon and unwanted spent yeast cells prior to distilling treat the wash with Still Spirits Turbo Clear. Add part A
by mixing in thoroughly and let stand for 2 hours then add part B by gently stirring in evenly at the surface and let stand for 24
hours.

Please note: It is illegal to use this unit in Australia to produce alcohol for consumption without a license
from the Customs & Excise Department
Hints & Tips: Fermentation
• HOT CLIMATES … Fill some PET soft drink bottles with water and freeze, then add throughout fermentation to control
the temperature.
• HOT CLIMATES … Another method is the evaporation technique. Sit the fermenter in a tray with about 25mm (1 inch) of
water. Drape some fabric over the fermenter so it dangles in the water (towelling or an old sweatshirt is ideal). The water is
drawn up the fabric and evaporates causing slight refrigeration. If it is still too hot, turn a fan onto the fermenter.
• MY WASH FAILED TO START FERMENTING … If the airlock is not bubbling after 24 hours it is most likely that the
fermenter is not sealed properly. Check you have pressed the lid on correctly. Next check you have a good seal by lightly
pressing the sides of the fermenter to force some air out through the airlock. When you release the pressure on the barrel
the air should try to get back in through the airlock. If sealed properly the water level should remain uneven in the airlock
(more water on one side than the other). In some circumstances the yeast can stop working before all the sugar is used.
This will be indicated by a final hydrometer reading higher than 990. Any reading above 1000 on a standard Wash, Wine &
Beer Hydrometer suggests that something has gone wrong. In most cases a good stir to get the yeast back into circulation
should get the wash fermenting again. The most common cause of stuck fermentation is low temperature. In this case sim-
ply move the fermenter to a warmer place and stir the yeast back into the liquid. An inexpensive stick-on thermometer,
available from your Brewing Specialist Store, will help monitor the temperature. If you are having problems maintaining
temperature, a purpose designed Brewcraft Heating Pad, can be purchased from your local Brewing Specialist Store.

Distillation
1. Pour the Wash into the still while being careful to leave the sediment behind.
2. Fit the lid complete with condenser and hoses on to the Still.
3. Plug the element in. When the wash has warmed up, but before thermometer reads 50°C (122°F) , start the cold water run-
ning through the condenser. (You can start running the water through at the beginning)
4. During most of the distillation process the cooling water flowing through the condenser should be flowing at about 500
mls (17 US fl oz) per minute. To measure the flow, fill a calibrated jug from the outlet pipe for one minute. Note: 500mls
per minute (17 US fl oz) is the ideal flow rate for cooling water that is under 20°C (68°F) . If your cold water supply is
warmer than this then a higher flow rate may be required alternately cool the incoming water by connecting it via a copper
tube and submersing this in a container of iced water.
5. Collect the first 50mls (2 US fl oz) and discard this. This is the Head. It is non-drinkable and must be discarded as it may
contain by-products that will substantially reduce the quality of your spirit.
6. Collect 3 litres (6.3 pints) of the Body, which contains the Ethanol (drinkable alcohol) at about 80%/V. Make sure that the
spirit outlet tube from the condenser stays well above the level of the spirit.
7. When using Turbo Classic Yeast it is important you do not collect more than 3 litres (6.3 pints) of distillate. Any spirit
collected after this amount will be poor quality.
8. The more cooling water that flows through the condenser the lower the temperature in the reflux column, this will show on
the thermometer. The temperature of your water also influences the amount you require. In summer you may need more
water than in winter when the water is cooler. The slower the cooling water flows through the condenser, the higher the
temperature will rise producing a faster flow of spirit. Running the cooling water at less than 500mls (17 US fl oz) per
minute may result in a loss of alcohol through steaming from the spirit outlet. If you run more than 600mls (20 US fl oz)
of cooling water through the condenser then this will slow the process down.
9. The thermometer temperature will slowly rise as the alcohol is boiled off. Increase the flow of water through the condenser
to hold the temperature under 92°C (197°F). The flow will slow toward the end of the distillation.
10. Discard the rest of the remaining wash in the still as you’ve now extracted all the alcohol and the rest of the wash contains
fermentation by-products and water.

Hints & Tips: Distillation

• WASH NOT FERMENTED COMPLETELY … If for any reason the wash has not fermented completely, (i.e. above 990
SG all the sugar has not been converted to alcohol), then you will not collect the full amount of distillate through the Still.
If you have not collected the full amount of alcohol, check you have used the correct amount of Turbo sugar/ dextrose in
the Wash; and/or the specific gravity is below 990 before distilling; and/or there is no steam leak during distillation. A typi-
cal wash will take around 4.5 hours to run through the still. It will take about 1 hour and 35 minutes to heat up before any
condensate will run out of the condenser. It will then take about 5 minutes to collect the Head, and nearly 3 hours to collect
3 litres (6.3 pints) of alcohol at 80%. This is a rough guide only. If the wash is not fully fermented out, then the unfer-
mented sugars can foam causing the wash to come through the condenser with the distillate. In this instance Top Shelf Dis-
tilling Conditioner can be used to increase yield or avoid problems.

• DISTILLATION WATER SAVER … Distillation Water Savers are available from your Brewing Specialist Store and the
pump system recycles cooling water through your still to completely eliminate water wastage. You can save well over 150
litres (40 US Gallons) every time. The water saver is used in conjunction with a water drum or tank (60 litres (16 US Gal-
lons) or larger) and frozen ice blocks to keep the water at a constant temperature below 50°C (122°F) .
Filtering Your Spirit
Use the Still Spirits EZ Filter to filter your spirit (sold separately).

The Still Spirits EZ Filter is the latest development in alcohol filtration. It uses a
specially formulated solid activated carbon cartridge to remove unwanted flavours
from distilled alcohol. The cartridge’s porous design allows the spirit to pass
through and the unwanted flavours to be absorbed by the activated carbon. The
cartridge eliminates the need to handle powdered or granulated carbons.

Watering the alcohol down and mixing up the spirits and liqueurs
Float a Spirit Hydrometer or Alcometer in the spirit to measure the alcohol content. Alcohol is thinner than water so the
higher in strength the alcohol is, the further down the hydrometer floats. Read the line where the level of the spirit cuts across
the hydrometer. Additives such as flavouring and Liquid Glucose will distort the hydrometer readings. Take good care of your
Spirit Hydrometer as it is very fragile. Wash & sterilise with cold water only.

Spirit hydrometers should only be used to test spirit before any additives such as flavouring or liquid glucose are mixed and at
the calibrated temperature. Still Spirits Spirit Hydrometers are calibrated at a temperature of 20°C (68°F) if the spirit is a dif-
ferent temperature to this then you can refer to the Temperature Correction Chart below. Taking readings of warmer liquids may
damage your hydrometer.

Temperature Correction
Adjustment Chart Example 20°C Alcohol % / Volume
Your Spirit Hydrometer reads (68°F) 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 98
50% A/V at a temperature of
Temp
25°C (77°F) , look up the Cor-
10°C (50°F) 4.12 3.98 3.67 3.42 3.19 2.92 2.45 2.06
rection Adjustment chart and
you will see the value is minus 15°C (59°F) 2.03 2.00 1.85 1.73 1.61 1.47 1.25 1.06
1.88. You then adjust your 20°C (68°F) 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
reading by that number – in 25°C (77°F) -2.01 -1.95 -1.88 -1.76 -1.65 -1.51 -1.31 -1.12
this case subtract 1.88 from 30°C (86°F) -4.06 -3.94 -3.78 -3.55 -3.33 -3.05 -2.67 -2.31
your reading of 50% A/V 35°C (95°F) -6.15 -5.98 -5.82 -5.4 -5.13 -4.67 -4.07 -3.54
which will give you a realistic
40°C (104°F) -8.29 -8.05 -7.92 -7.41 -7.03 -6.35 -5.5 -4.8
reading of 48.12% A/V.

Adjusting your alcohol strength down to 40% A/V

After carbon purifying, the spirit should be watered down in strength to 40% A/V prior to drinking. We strongly advise against
making higher strength spirit.

CALCULATION:

LITRES (US Gallons) COLLECTED

X
ALCOHOL STRENGTH
__________________________________________ = Total Litres (US Gallons) to be
made up to
ALCOHOL STRENGTH

Example
To convert 45% strength alcohol to 40% use the following calculation
4.5 Litres (1.2 US Gallons) x 45 / 40 = 5.06 litres (1.33 US Gallons).
If you collect 4.5 litres (1.2 US Gallons) of spirit and this measures 45% after carbon purifying, then multiply 4.5 x 45. Divide
this by 40% and you will need to make the total spirit up to 5.06 litres (1.33 US Gallons) with water. In other words add 590mls
(20 US fl oz) of water. This is a rough guide only. Watering down the spirit to 40%, or less, is very important as people unused
to high strength spirit can easily overdose resulting in nausea and in extreme cases death.
Troubleshooting
My wash started to ferment but stopped and my hydrometer reading is not down to 990 SG?
It’s probable the temperature rose too high in the first 24 hours of fermentation. It’s important to note that yeast activity can raise the wash tem-
perature by as much as 8°C (46°F) in the first 24 hours of fermentation. It’s essential to start the wash at around 20°C (68°F) and not use any
heat in the first 24 hours. If the wash overheats during this period the yeast may not have the energy to finish fermenting. If this has occurred,
first stir the wash vigorously to stir the yeast back into circulation. If the SG has not lowered within 24 hours then obtain an EC1118 Wine Yeast.
As there is alcohol present you should first start the yeast working in 200mls (7 US fl oz) of water. Once the yeast has dissolved, add a teaspoon
of dextrose. When this is fermenting, add 200mls (7 US fl oz) of wash. When this is fermenting add half of this back to the stuck wash and top
back up with wash. Continue this until the wash starts fermenting. Alternately, it may be because the wash has cooled down below 15°C (59°F).
In this case, warm the wash up and stir vigorously to get the yeast back into circulation. Once the wash is warm fermentation should continue
normally.

I have tried to get the wash going again but nothing seems to start it?
Distill it anyway. You will not get as much alcohol as you would from a normally fermented wash. Watch the temperature on the condenser and
stop when you have reached the appropriate maximum temperature for your model.

I did not get as much alcohol as the instructions said I would?

Check that you have used the right quantity and type of sugar. Check there are no steam leaks from your still. Another cause could be that your
wash has not fermented out completely.

My alcohol is not as strong as the instructions said it would be?

Check as above. Also, make sure you do not exceed the maximum temperature allowed at the top of the Condenser for the type of still you have.
If the alcohol is not in the wash then you can’t distill it.

My distillate is blue?
Ensure you have used Still Spirits Turbo System products (some brands produce a blue spirit due to an imbalance of nutrients). Use only one
Turbo Yeast sachet per 25 Litre (6.6 US Gallon) wash—if the fermentation sticks do not add another Turbo sachet as this will result in an imbal-
ance of nutrients.

My distillate is cloudy when it comes out of the still?

The wash has frothed and come out the condenser with the distillate. Use Turbo Clear prior to distilling and/or Distilling Conditioner.

My distillate is clear when it comes out of the still and has been filtered but it goes cloudy after a few days?
Mineral Salts have been washed out of the carbon and have reformed in the distillate. These are harmless but unsightly. This problem can also
appear as coloured sediment when flavour essence has been added as the salts pick up the colouring from the flavouring. Wash the carbon car-
tridge more thoroughly at the recommended stage during fermentation. Ensure the temperature is kept as close as possible to ideal fermentation
temperature. Filter spirit containing sediment with a wine filter. Leave until sediment has all dropped out (cold temperatures will accelerate proc-
ess) and decant off sediment.

My distillate comes out of the condenser discoloured or has dark flecks in it?
If the condenser is used for the first time then this could be residue from the manufacturing process. Soak with White Vinegar to clean this away
then rinse with a weak solution of dishwashing liquid and warm water. If this has not occurred the first time the condenser has been used but
occurs on subsequent uses then it can be traced to collecting too much distillate. This will result in the problem showing up next time the con-
denser is used. Clean as above and only collect the correct amount of distillate. Before distilling ensure that the SG is down to 990 otherwise
make sure that you do not distill above the temperature limits of your condenser.

The condenser seems to overheat even though I am running plenty of water through it?
The condenser may not be plumbed correctly. Fill the condenser with warm water then pull the hoses off the base of the main condenser. One of
these will be the inlet for the water and the other will be the hose that transfers the water into the reflux condenser. The water should flow out of
the condenser through the pipe that the inlet water pipe is connected to. If it flows out of the other one then the hoses have been fitted the wrong
way around. Alternately, the internal overflow outlet could be missing or loose. Take the marble out of the reflux condenser and shake the whole
condenser. There should not be any rattling. If there is, the overflow pipe may be loose.

No spirit comes out of my condenser and the lid pushes off?

There is a blockage in the condenser – When the condenser is removed from the still it should be easy to blow in through the spirit outlet tube.
Any resistance here would indicate a blockage that will most likely be at the back of the nipple that the outlet tube is attached to. Using a 4mm
(1/6th of an inch) flat punch and a hammer just tap the punch up the outlet to push the inside wall of the main condenser away from the back end
of the nipple. This should clear any blockage.

How do I know how much water flow the condenser needs to run correctly?
Water flow is extremely important for the correct operation of the condenser. First the water runs through the main condenser, then into the reflux
condenser. The water warms up in the main condenser as it removes heat from the condensing spirit. This hot water is then fed into the reflux
condenser. If the flow of water is too high then the reflux condenser becomes too efficient which reduces the flow of steam into the main con-
denser. The reduced flow will also result in a higher alcohol content as more of the heavier molecules like water are returned to the Still and
what does get past the reflux condenser is the lighter molecules or the alcohol – When a condenser is running properly the top two bands of the
main condenser should be very hot. The bottom band of the spiral should be cool and the one above it should be hot but not too hot to touch.

Can I fit my condenser from my 5 Litre (1 US Gallon) Still onto a larger boiler?
Yes you can fit the condenser from a 5 Litre (1 US Gallon) Still onto a 25 Litre (6.6 US Gallon) “3 in 1” fermenter. This will make a 25 Litre
(6.6 US Gallon) Still. Please note that in Australia, it is illegal to own and operate a still over 5 Litres.

Classic Finest Reserve Scotch Whiskey goes cloudy when I mix it?
This essence is prone to going cloudy if the alcohol content is below 40% A/V or the spirits is very cold - Make sure the alcohol content is above
40% when mixing. If possible mix it in at 50% then slowly water the spirit down. Make sure the spirit is warmer than 25°C (77°F).