UNESCO-NIGERIA TECHNICAL

& VOCATIONAL EDUCATION

NATIONAL DIPLOMA IN
CIVIL ENGINEERING
TECHNOLOGY

CIVIL ENGINEERING CONSTRUCTION I

COURSE CODE: CEC110

YEAR I- SEMESTER II

PRACTICAL/

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 CIVIL ENGINEERING TECHNOLOGY

CIVIL ENGINEERING CONSTRUCTION II (CEC110)

COURSE INDEX

PRACTICAL
WEEK 1: Scaffolding

Erection of save scaffold

Theory

Material

Site visit

WEEK 2: PRACTICAL
Fixing of window opening

PRACTICAL
WEEK 3 Laying Terrazzo finish

PRACTICAL
WEEK 4: Plastering

PRACTICAL
WEEK 5: Painting Of Wall And Ceiling

PRACTICAL
WEEK 6: fixing door frames and lining

PRACTICAL
WEEK 7: fixing door frames and lining after wall is built

PRACTICAL
WEEK 8: fixing glass in frame

PRACTICAL
WEEK 9: fixing glass in steel frames

PRACTICAL
WEEK 10: painting of wood work with gloss paint

PRACTICAL

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WEEK 11: Painting metal work with gloss paint

PRACTICAL
WEEK 12; How to build a septic tank

PRACTICAL
WEEK 13: Opening in brick wall

PRACTICAL
WEEK 14: Building a manhole

PRACTICAL
WEEK 15 Workability test for concrete

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 WEEK 1

PRACTICAL

TITLE: SCAFFOLDING

AIM: ERECTION OF SAVE SCAFFOLD

THEORY: Scaffold is a temporary structure from which persons can gain access to a

place of work in order to carryout building operations. It includes any working platforms,

ladder and guardrail. Basically, there are two form of scaffolding

• Putlog scaffolds

• Independent scaffolds

MATERIALS:

Scaffold can be of:

• Tabular steel

• Tabular aluminum alloy

• Timber

PROCEDURE:
ERECTION Of SCAFFOLDING

1. the standard must be vertical or slightly inclined towards the building

2. the base of the steward must not rest directly on the ground or it could sink under

pressure. The structure must have a case plate between the foot of the steward and the

ground to take the load.

3. putlog and transform that support the platform must be fixed securely to the standards

or ledgers in approve manners so that they do not move

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4. the scaffolding should be fixed to the walls of the building under construction at

10metres intervals across the building face

5. putlog scaffold should have diagonal

6. braces between standard on alternative bay

7. the span between standards should be less than 2400mm.

8. scaffolds should be erected by fully trained people only.

9. parts of the scaffolding should not be moved unless you check the changed fitting

carefully.

SITE VISIT

The student were taking to a construction site to see the installation and working principle

or scaffold.

Student are expected to write a site visit report of scaffolds.

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 WEEK 2

PRACTICAL TWO

TITLE: FIXING WINDOW IN OPENING

AIM: TO FIX WINDOW IN OPENING

A timber window can be fixed in place as an opening is built or afterwards.

Generally, it is better practice to fix window later to prevent exposure of the

internal parts to weather. To do this you must fix plugs into the recesses in the frame and

during construction and then screw the window in place

You follow the same procedure to fix windows in place while walls are being

built as for doors.

Metal windows are usually fix in place after the walls are constructed. You should

leave holes in the frames for screws to fit into the plugs in the wall. After the frame in

inserted you should fill the joint around the frame with a waterproof mastic cement.

COMMENT: student are asked to go to site to see how doors and windows are fixed to

buildings. Student are encourage to write a comprehensive report.

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 WEEK 3

TITLE: LAYING A TERRAZZO FINISH

AIM: TO KNOW HOW TO LAY TERRAZZO FINISH

PROCEDURES

1. pour the terrazzo into bays separated by metal strips

2. consolidate and compact the mixture with a roller

3. smooth the mixture with a steel trowel and leave it to harden

4. grind the surface with a rough past to make a smooth finish

5. wash and buff with a polisher.

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 WEEK 4

TITLE: PLASTERING

AIM: KNOW HOW TO PLASTER A WALL

PROCEDURES

1. Put mounds of cement and sand mortar across the wall in columns of three about

1200mm apart. Check that the mounds are in a straight line. Smooth the mounds to a

thickness of about 10mm. Leave them to set hard

2. apply 75mm vertical strips of plaster (called screed) over the mounds and leave them

to set

3. mix the plaster by hand or with a small mixer

4. apply a rough plaster coat to the wall between the screed by putting it on with an

upward sweeping movement

5. move the screed board from the bottom to the top of the wall in a sawing motion to

smooth and level the plaster.

6. scratch the first coat before it set to provide a key for the second coat and leave to

dry.

7. apply a finishing coat of 2mm neat plaster with a steel float to produce a thick,

smooth finish.

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 WEEK 5

TITLE: PAINTING OF WALL AND CEILING

AIM: KNOW HOW TO PAINT SMOOTH PLASTER ON WALLS AND

CEILINGS

PROCEDURES:

1. remove all plaster splashes with scraper

2. fill in and rub down any holes, scratches or grooves

3. remove dust with a soft brush

4. dilute the emulsion with 10 percent additional water and paint it on as a priming coat

5. leave it about an hour

6. apply the full strength emulsion

7. leave it for 2 or 3 hours

8. paint on the final coat of emulsion.

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 WEEK 6.

TITLE: FIXING DOOR FRAMES AND LININGS

AIM: KNOW HOW TO FIX DOOR FRAMES AND LINING

PROCEDURES:

1. Brace the frame or lining to keep it square.

2. paint the crack of the frame to prevent the entry of moisture from the

masonry

3. screw galvanized metal fastening to the back of the frame or lining

which match the masonry courses.

4. stand the structure in position, level and support it with struts.

5. build the fastening into the masonry joint to secure the frame or lining

in position permanently.

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 WEEK 7

TITLE: FIXING DOOR FRAME AND LINING AFTER WALL IS BUILT

AIM: KNOW HOW TO FIX DOOR FRAME AND LINING AFTER WALL IS

BUILD

PROCEDURES:

1. leave the opening that is about 3 – 4mm bigger than the frame when the

wall is built

2. insert wood plugs into some of the masonry joint that face the opening

during construction

3. put the frame in position after the wall and lintel are built

4. level the frame with small timber pieces

5. drill holes in the frame or lining for screws to go into the plugs in the

masonry.

6. countersink the screws and fill the holes.

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 WEEK 8

TITLE: FIXING GLASS IN FRAME

AIM: KNOW HOW TO FIX GLASS IN WOOD FRAME

PROCEDURES:

1. prime the wood to keep the oil in the linseed putty

2. apply putty to the recess in the frame and fit the glass

3. put more putty around the outside of the joint where the glass lies in the

frame.

4. level off the putty that it slopes to line up with the top of the recess (

creating a sight line)

5. if the glass is fixed to an internal door, then bed the glazing in timber

glazing beads, which are nailed to the frame on four sides. This prevents

the glass rattling when the door is opened and closed.

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 WEEK 9

TITLE: FIXING GLASS IN STEEL FRAMES

AIM: KNOW HOW TO FIX GLASS IN STEEL FRAMES

PROCEDURES:

1. use a special metal glazing putty, which sticks better than ordinary putty

2. put the bottom edge of the glass on two small blocks so that it does not

rest on the lintel

3. continue fixing as for wood frame

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 WEEK 10
TITLE: PAINTING OF WOOD WORK WITH GLOSS PAINT

AIM: KNOW HOW WORK IS PAINTED WITH GLOSS PAINT

PROCEDURES:

1. rub down the wood in the direction of the grain with glass paper

2. clean all dust and dirt from the surface

3. seal knots to prevent resin leaking through with a mixture of shellac and

methylated spirit

4. seal the bare wood with primer

5. fill holes and cracks with a plastic filler paste

6. rub the surface with glass paper to smooth the filler

7. brush on the undercoat

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 WEEK 11

TITLE: PAINTING METAL WORK WITH GLOSS PAINT

AIM: KNOW HOW TO PAINT METAL WORK WITH GLOSS

PAINT

PROCEDURES:

1. remove any rust with wire wool and clean with white spirit to remove

grease

2. paint dry metal with primer (not in damp, cold weather). A second coat

of prima is optional

3. rub down the primer

4. brush on the undercoat

5. rub down the undercoat

6. brush on the gloss

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 WEEK 12

TITLE: HOW TO BUILD A SEPTIC TANK

AIM: KNOW HOW SEPTIC TANK IS BUILT

PROCEDURES:

1. excavate the hole for the tank, observing the safety precaution

2. cast a concrete base

3. build up 215mm wall for the outside surface of the tank

4. build 102.5mm internal walls

5. cover top of the tank with 75mm reinforced concrete panels, which are

loosely set on the top of the walls for ventilation and to make it easy to

remove scum

6. insert entry and exit pipes with t-junctions and extensions to push the

sludge to the bottom.

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 WEEK 13

TITLE: OPENING IN BRICK WALL

AIM: MAKING AN IN SITU LINTEL

PROCEDURES:

1. Erect the timber form across the opening and support it from the floor

below

2. use wedges to level the supports and formwork

3. seal all the joint with building paper or mastic between the timber

formwork and the brickwork to stop the cement and water leaking out

4. paint the inside of the formwork with releasing oil

5. place the reinforcement in the formwork

6. pour the concrete make sure that it flows down around and under the rods

and cover it with wet sacking and leave for seven days.

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 WEEK 14

TITLE: BUILDING A MANHOLE

AIM: KNOW HOW TO MAKE A BRICK MANHOLE

PROCEDURES:

1. cast the concrete base

2. build up the walls and build in the drains which pass through them

3. bed the open channel sections and branch connections of the drains in the

base

4. fill the space between the branches with concrete (this is called haunhing)

the haunching in between the branches and the wall should be smooth

and slope to the channels to keep the bottom of the manhole clean and

dry.

5. when the brickwork is completed, render it in a 1:3 cement and sand

mixture to make it watertight.

6. make a brick shelf at the top or lay a precast concrete slab over the top of

the manhole if the frame for the cover is smaller than the base.

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 WEEK 15

TITLE: WORKABILITY TEST FOR CONCRETE

AIM: KNOW HOW TO CARRYOUT SLUMP TEST

PROCEDURES:

1. put mixed concrete in metal cone on a fist base

2. pack it down layer by layer with the tamping rod until the cone is full

3. level the top with a steel trowel

4. remove the cone and the concrete will sag (slump)

5. measure the distance from the top of the cone to the top of the slumped

concrete. Compare this with the desired level of slump

6. increase or decrease the water in the mix to get the correct slump.

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