Installation Of The Finishes

Carpet – Surau

There a few steps that need to be done in order to install a carpet perfectly . The work must be
done meticulously in order to achieve a perfect finish . There are four basic types of carpet fiber
which is nylon , polyester , olefin and wool . For the building that we are reporting , wool
texture carpet is used for surau floor .

PART I : GETTING THE FLOOR READY FOR INSTALLATION

i. Take all the furniture out of the room. Move all your belongings to another room,
including the furniture .
ii. Remove the doors, door stops, and floor vents. Basically, you need to remove anything
that keeps you from getting to the carpet. With doors, you can take the pins out of the
hinges and then pull the door down. Unscrew floor vents to pull them up. Make sure to
keep screws and hinges in a bag so you don't lose them
iii. Pull up the old carpet. Pick a corner to start with. Grab the corner and start tugging it up.
You may need pliers to help you grab the carpet. A crowbar may also help you pull it up.
Keep yanking on it, and you should be able to pull it up from the tack strips in large
sections.
iv. Cut the carpet into strips from the back and roll them up. As you pull up the carpet, you'll
be able to use a box cutter on the back of the carpet, making it easier to cut. Slice the
carpet every 3 to 4 feet (0.91 to 1.22 m) and then roll each strip up
v. Vacuum and mop the floor clean. Now is a good time to make sure the floor under your
carpet is clean. Vacuum or sweep up any debris in the area, and then go over it with a
mop. Let it dry at least an hour before continuing, as you don't want water under your
carpet

PART II : GETTING NEW MATERIALS

i. Measure the length and width of your room. To buy enough padding and carpet, you need
to know the square footage (meterage) of your room. Start by measuring your room on
the longest side and writing the number down. Do the same going the other direction and
write that number down . Add 10-20% to your estimate.
 ii. Buy carpet and padding based on your area measurements. When buying the supplies,
they'll be listed in square feet or meters. Therefore, all you need to do is compare the
square footage or meterage you found with what's being offered in the store.

PART III : PLACING THE PADDING

i. Nail the tack strips into place as needed. Place the tack strips about 0.25 to 0.5 inches
(0.64 to 1.27 cm) from the wall in a straight line. Make sure the tacks are pointed toward
the wall, not the center of the room. Use 2 nails for each strip, nailing it into the wood
below. Some tack strips come with the nails already in place, and you just hit them in.
ii. Lay out the padding on the floor. Roll out the padding, starting from one side of the room
and moving to the other. Slice it off with a box cutter when you get to the other wall,
making sure you have enough on both ends. Cut it just on the inside of the tack strips.
Roll out the next set of padding right next to the first.
iii. Staple the padding into place with a staple gun. Walk across the floor and press staples
into place every 2 feet (0.61 m) or so. Also, make sure to staple the padding along the
inside edge of the tacking strip to hold it in place against the strip.

PART IV : LAYING THE CARPET

i. Roll the carpet out. Start in one corner of the room. Leave 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm)
of excess on each side of the carpet up against the wall. Unroll the carpet roll, covering
the floor and tack strips as you do. Line up carpet edges as needed to make seams and
cover the whole floor.
ii. Place seaming tape underneath seams. When you come to a seam, lay seaming tape down
on the floor. The sticky part should be facing up. Place the carpet seam over the tape,
making sure both edges are covered.
iii. Heat the tape with a seaming iron. Set your seaming iron to 2 or 3. Lift up the carpet on
both sides so you can slide the seaming iron underneath the carpet and on top of the tape.
Leave it in place for 8-10 seconds until the adhesive melts, then move it down. Press
down on the part of the seam you just heated so the carpet sticks to the tape.
iv. Seal the seam with a carpet roller. Run your thumbs over the very center of the seam to
make sure it's in place. Then, use a carpet roller to go over it several times, running it
back and forth along the seam. Do this as you heat each section, not at the very end
PART V : TRIMMING THE EXCESS CARPET

i. Run a carpet trimming tool along the edge. The carpet tool has a flat metal runner on the
bottom, a handle on the top, and a blade on one edge. Press the tool flat against the carpet
and right up against the baseboard on the sharp side. Push it along the wall, applying
pressure as you do
ii. Check that you cut cleanly through the carpet off before taking the strip off. Look along
the edge of the strip you cut off. Make sure no strings are connecting the strip to the main
carpet, then pull it up and away from the carpet
iii. Press the edge of the carpet under the baseboard with a carpet chisel. This tool has a
wide, dull blade that lets you press the carpet in place. Use it to wedge the carpet under
the baseboard by pressing into the carpet until it settles in place .
iv. Return any hardware you removed. If you took doors off, put them back in place. Put the
door stops back. If you took up floor vents, screw them back in place. Move your
furniture and belongings back in place,
Tiles – Office

Tiles are often use in construction industry , they are widely known for their versatility and
elegance . It has been use since the old times and it is one of the reliable materials that can be
used . These are commonly made of ceramic or stone, although recent technological advances
have resulted in rubber or glass tiles for floors as well. The installation of tiles is easy and you
can install it yourself . For the building that we are reporting , ceramic tiles is used for office
floor .

PART I : LAYING THE FLOOR

A nice-looking floor tile has to be related to how the layout has been completed and how straight
the lines could be. Using chalk lines, snap lines with a 90-degree intersection at the center of the
room. Remember sometimes and depending on the room configuration this could not be
achieved, and a different approach shall be followed. Follow the layout by installing loose tiles
along with their spacers all the way to the walls. Start at the intersection of the chalk lines, and
make a path forming a 90-degree angle with tile.

If the gap between the last tile and the wall is greater than 1/2 tile then adjust the tiles to one side
or another. If the layout is approved by your customer or if you are satisfied, then proceed to the
next step.

PART II : MIXING THE MORTAR

i. Mix The Mortar

Start by storing your mortar materials at a temperature between 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Mix
the mortar with water until the desired consistency has been obtained, not too watery not too
thick. Depending on your mortar mix type, you will need to allow some time for the water to
react with the mortar component to obtain the desired result. Remember that the mix should be
used within 30 minutes of being mixed with the water. Once you start using that mix, do not add
water, as it will weaken and affect the mix strength. Be sure to use the right mortar mix when
installing tile over different substrates.
 ii. Applying Mortar

The mortar should be applied using the flat side of the trowel first. Then, use the recommended
notch trowel apply it at a 45-degree angle, spreading the mortar uniformly. Do continue this
pattern but horizontally to maintain the same mortar height. Spread only the amount that can be
covered with tiles within the next 15 minutes.

PART III : INSTALLING THE TILES

i. Place The Tiles

Press the tile unto the mortar using a twist motion and hit it with a rubber mallet so it can adhere
to the mortar. Let the mortar dry for at least 24 hours and avoid stepping on the tile. Check that
lines are uniform and use tile spacers between each tile. The last line to install is the line that has
tile that needed to be cut. Remove excess adhesive from tiles.

ii. Cut Tiles (Where Needed)

If needed cut the tile with a nipper or wet saw. Use a pencil to mark the area that is to be cut.
Avoid using the centerpieces of a tile, without any of the factory edges. You don't need to be
perfect if a cover will be installed on top of the tile that is about to be cut.

iii. Grout Tiles

Mix grout following manufacturer's recommendations or until a smooth consistency has been
achieved. Mix the amount that can be applied in 20 minutes. Mix until all pigments are dispersed
and a uniform color has been obtained. Let it stand for five minutes and mix again. Use a grout
float to apply the grout into the joints after all spacers have been removed. Use a sponge to
remove excess grout. The tile joint can be buffed within 30 minutes of being applied using a dry
cloth

iv. Seal the Grout (Optional)

For better results seal the grout at least 72 hours after it has been applied. This process will help
maintain the color of the grout for more time. This sealer will also reduce the amount of water
seeping below the floor tile. Wipe off excess sealer with a dry cloth.
Cement – Student’s Room

Cement is one of the sturdiest and and long-lasting material that can be use to create a floor . It is
often use for houses , garage and other buildings . Cement floor is often built in places that a lot
of people use often so it needs to be durable . For the bulding that we are reporting , OPC
cement is used for student’s room floor .

PART I : PREPARATION BEFORE LAYING

Preparation is the key to laying a cement floor that will not break over time.. If the cement will
be used as a base for ceramic tile, a clean, dry subfloor will provide enough support for this pad.
A check of the beams and joists will be needed to ensure that the weight of the cement can be
supported. If the cement is to be poured onto bare ground, additional preparation will be needed.
The area will need to be excavated to a level that will support different layers. In areas where the
climate can be cold, this level may need to be below the frost line. Generally an interior cement
floor will be three to four inches thick. In addition, a one inch base of sand is required to provide
a level surface on the ground

PART II : BUILDING THE BASE

Before the pouring of the cement, the base will need to be created of additional materials to
support the cement pad and prevent it from shifting. If a form is needed, then this should be built
first around the perimeter of the base. This form can be prefabricated metal or a series of 2 x 6
inch wood planks. Once the form is built, layers of base material can be put down. The layers
can range from an inch of sand to individual layers of gravel, sand and a vapor barrier to keep
out the moisture. A check of the local building codes will provide what layers will be needed for
proper support of the floor. A layer of gravel will be used to provide the lower base. This
material is to be compacted to form a hard surface for the sand or vapor barrier. Once this middle
layer is put down, the cement can be poured.
PART III : POURING THE CEMENT

For smaller floors with a thin layer, purchasing bags of prepared cement will be sufficient for the
task. In the case of larger floors over larger square footage, pre-mixed cement can be purchased
by the truckload which will be easier than hand mixing a large number of bags of cement. The
floor can be poured in two layers. A mix of cement with gravel can be used for the lower level to
form a strong base. Once this dries, a thinner sandy mix can be used to level the cement and
provides a smoother surface for the floor.

References

 https://www.grigsbys.com/carpetinstallation
 https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-install-carpet/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90cd3b5a74
 https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/rooms-and-spaces/bathroom/how-to-pour-a-concrete-
floor
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tile
 https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Carpet