Anthropometry

and Sizing
SIZING
 Anthropology/ Anthropometry
( Concept, traditional, modern, landmark , tool kit, ISO)

 Anthropology
Anthropology “the science of humanity,” which studies human beings in aspects ranging
from the biology and evolutionary history of Homo sapiens to the features of society
and culture that decisively distinguish humans from other animal species. The study of
anthropology is concerned both with the biological features that make us human (such as
physiology, genetic makeup, nutritional history and evolution) and with social aspects (such
as language, culture, politics, family and religion).
The major branches of anthropology
•  Cultural anthropology or Social anthropology- are interested in learning about the
cultural aspects of human societies all over the world.
–  Psychological anthropology, branch of cultural anthropology that seeks to
determine the range of personality types extant in a given culture
•  Linguistic anthropology- it seeks to understand human language written and non-
written, verbal and non Verbal.
•  Archaeology- the scientific study of the material remains of past human life and
activities through human artifacts(tools, machinery etc.) and remain (social aspect).
•  Physical anthropology/ Biological Anthropology - is a scientific discipline concerned
with the biological and behavioral aspect of human beings and there related non-human
primates and there extinct hominine ancestors
https://www.britannica.com/science/anthropology/Primatology#ref236852
http://www.yourarticlelibrary.com/essay/anthropology/anthropometry-scope-and-methods-of-anthropometry/41863
https://www2.palomar.edu/anthro/intro/fields.htm
 Physical anthropology/ Biological Anthropology
•  Paleoanthropology -also called Human Paleontology, interdisciplinary branch
of anthropology concerned with the origins and development of early humans through
fossils
•  Primatology- The study of the primate order of mammals—other than recent humans
(Homo sapiens).
•  Anthropometry- The systematic collection and correlation of measurements of the human
body.
•  Genetics -study of heredity in general and of genes in particular
•  Human ecology-- man’s collective interaction with his environment Human ecology views
the biological, environmental, demographic, and technical conditions of the life of any
people as an interrelated series of determinants of form and function in
human cultures and social systems
•  Bio-archaeology-who specialize in the study of skeletal remains at archaeological sites. The
physical and chemical examination of bones have the capacity to reveal a wide range of
information about past peoples and societies, including: Health such as those related to
mortuary practice, with an understanding of paleonutrition, paleopathology, and the
discrete traits that can be detected from skeletons
•  Growth and development -Methods to assess rates of growth, skeletal age compared with
chronological age, and the genetic, endocrinology, and nutritional factors that affect
growth in humans and other primates
•  Forensics
https://www.britannica.com/science/anthropology/Primatology#ref236852
http://www.yourarticlelibrary.com/essay/anthropology/anthropometry-scope-and-methods-of-anthropometry/41863
https://www2.palomar.edu/anthro/intro/fields.htm
 Determinants of garment design.

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overview D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D Chap;ter 2
 Anthropometry
Anthropometry may be most simply and comprehensively defined as the
conventional art or system of measuring the human body
Anthropometry is a quantitative, systematic representation of the individual for
the purpose of understanding his physical variation
Anthropometry is the discipline that studies the dynamic and static dimensions of
the human body, the procedures and techniques to carry out measurements and
statistical analysis
Objective of anthropometry is to study and analyse the shape and size of human
bodies, and use this knowledge to design products that fit the requirements of
users .
The term ‘Anthropometry’ is derived from a combination of Greek words Anthro/
anthropo (meaning human) and metricos / metreein/ metron (meaning
measurement).

SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
ANTHROPOMETRY. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE CAPTURE OF ANTHROPOMETRIC DIMENSIONS -Rosmery Nariño Lescay1, Alicia Alonso
Becerra1, Anaisa Hernández González1 February 30, 2017
 Techniques of anthropometry

The scientific methods and techniques of anthropometry may be subdivided into the
following sections:
•  Craniometry indicates the measurement of the skeletal brain-cavity and face
MANDIBULOMETRY-The objective behind Craniometry and Mandibulometry is to
study the form and shape of human (or Primate) cranium and mandible,
respectively
•  Osteometry is the measurement of the skeletal parts particularly of the long and
short bones.
•  Somatoscopy is being used for observations on the living man. Somatoscopy
concerns the systematic visual observation of physical features of various parts of
human body for accurate description.
•  Somatometry means the measurement of the living body including head and face.
Somatometry is made of two words ‘somato’ which means living and ‘metric’
which refers to measurement, so in simple terms it means measurement of living
beings. Therefore, Somatometry a division of anthropometry is defined as a
systematic technique to measure living body including head and face.

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 Uses of anthropometric data
Some of the uses of anthropometric data:
•  Sports science (often used for assessing athletes or potential athletes),
•  Medicine and public health (often used for assessing the health of individuals
and/or populations)
•  Forensic anthropology (for identifying age, cause of death, disease presence
etc.) and
•  Engineering or design anthropometry (used for design and assessment of worn
products and built environments)
•  Medisign – which is the design of product for use in medicine
An anthropometric database is defined as a “collection of individual body
measurements (anthropometric data) and background information (demographic data)
recorded on a group of people (the sample)” (International Standards Organisation
(ISO) 2010).

SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
 Classification of Anthropometry
Structural Anthropometry deals with simple measurements of static human also called
static anthropometry
Tools and methods for collecting these measures have been classified as
•  Linear measures which yield data in the form of distance between two points taken
both in standing or sitting postures like
Vertical measurements center front waist length, cervical height, crotch height
etc.
Girth measurement upper arm girth , bust waist hip , neck head etc.
Arch / segment lengths across back , across shoulder , across chest etc.
Sitting posture – crotch depth or under arm length
•  Multi-probe method which use a combination of linear methods with other tools to
map the body’s contours.
•  Body form methods which give information about the surface, shape and volume of
the body.
Functional anthropometry deals with compound measurements of moving human is also
called Dynamic anthropometry

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overview D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D Chap;ter 2
 Anthropometric measurement types

Four main measurement types for engineering anthropometry.

•  A 1-D measurement provides one number only, e.g. waist circumference is 750
mm. This provides a size value for the measurement, but no specific location
information in either 2-D or 3-D space.
•  A 2-D measurement provides two numbers and typically provides 2-D location in
a plane. This might be a point location extracted from a scaled photograph,
extracted from a photographed silhouette of a person with a background grid etc.
X,y coordinates
•  A 3-D measurement provides three numbers and provides location information
in 3-D as well as size. has 3 co-ordinates, x, y and z that exactly pinpoints its
location in relation to every other point
•  A 4-D measurements consist of 3-D points that are tracked sequentially over
time, capturing the body in motion. This is sometimes called dynamic or
biodynamic data.

SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
 1D measurement
The strength of traditional 1-D measurement is
•  Have been used for hundreds of years, are well- established, abundant, easily
collectable, readily available
•  Easy to use and Easy communicate relative size information
•  Good for comparing samples of populations in a general way.
•  Helpful for selecting subjects, cases or fit models.
•  Requires only mean and standard deviation from the original dataset
Weaknesses.
First, while the strength of 1-D is the ability to understand relative size, it is also the
weakness, because the relative size only applies to the dimension that has been
measured.
The use of 1-D data for design purposes in aggregate form, such as averages or
percentiles, can potentially be dangerous no average man

SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
ANTHROPOMETRY. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE CAPTURE OF ANTHROPOMETRIC DIMENSIONS -Rosmery Nariño Lescay1, Alicia Alonso
Becerra1, Anaisa Hernández González1 February 30, 2017
https://dined.io.tudelft.nl
 2D measurement

2-D measurement might be considered the worst of both 1-D and 3-D. They are
not as good at providing relative size information as 1-D because the missing third
dimension in the calculation of distances results in additional random error. They
are not as good as 3-D in providing location information because the missing third
dimension results in additional random error.

Furthermore 2-D requires specialized equipment

The techniques of two-dimensional anthropometry allow you to get insight in the
correlations between two different body dimensions.
Multivariate analysis like PCA

SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
ANTHROPOMETRY. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE CAPTURE OF ANTHROPOMETRIC DIMENSIONS -Rosmery Nariño Lescay1, Alicia Alonso
Becerra1, Anaisa Hernández González1 February 30, 2017
https://dined.io.tudelft.nl
 3D measurement
Strengths
•  The outstanding strength of 3-D measurement is the ability to capture a
complete 3-D copy of the subject. This copy can be used to describe the contour
shape, the proportional shape, extract 1-D measurements for relative size,
extract 3-D skeletal landmarks for biodynamic modeling, and more.
•  Two copies of the same person can readily be compared for examining changes
over time due to pregnancy, ageing, growth, or the impact of a load on the
posture, or the location of apparel when functioning properly, etc. In addition,
accurate 1-D or 2-D data can be extracted if you have a 3-D file, but an accurate
3-D form cannot be made from 1-D or 2-D.
Weakness
•  1-D data extracted from a 3-D scan, even highly accurate data, are not the same
measurement and are therefore not comparable to the traditional
measurement taken on a live person
•  Expensive
SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
ANTHROPOMETRY. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE CAPTURE OF ANTHROPOMETRIC DIMENSIONS -Rosmery Nariño Lescay1, Alicia Alonso
Becerra1, Anaisa Hernández González1 February 30, 2017
https://dined.io.tudelft.nl
 4D measurement
•  The strength of dynamic or 4-D measurement is that it captures people doing the
activities of interest and enables an understanding of the effect of age, load,
apparel, etc. on the ability to live and work safely and effectively. 3D motion
analysis system, equipped with multiple cameras, is used to record the
measurements in various postures in static as well as video mode for analysis
•  The most successful application of dynamic measures, so far, has been in design of
sportswear for world champions. Swimwear and other sport garments designed
using such data have been shown to reduce muscle fatigue, enhance body comfort,
reduce impedance and even lead to enhanced performance.
•  The weakness is that only a relatively few points can be tracked. It is generally not
possible to measure the body in motion with the same kind of accuracy as when it is
held in a static pose because of the variation in the way in which a task is performed
even by the same individual. Also, it is quite complicated to track the location of body
landmarks while the body is in motion
•  Difficult and cumbersome to us
•  Expensive

SIZING UP AUSTRALIA - THE NEXT STEP Chapter 2: Literature Review Defining the method and scientific parameters for the Australian Body Sizing Survey
ANTHROPOMETRY. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE CAPTURE OF ANTHROPOMETRIC DIMENSIONS -Rosmery Nariño Lescay1, Alicia Alonso
Becerra1, Anaisa Hernández González1 February 30, 2017
https://dined.io.tudelft.nl
 Variability in Anthropometric data
Variability in human dimensions
–  Measurement conditions
•  Time of day -recorded can also introduce variability as body dimensions can
change with the time of day. Dimensions can be different if recorded just before
or after a meal. The body tends to be shorter by up to 2 cm in the evening
•  Clothing worn Different types of clothing can have different effects.
Measurements recorded on a nude or minimally clad body are the most accurate
but may not always be possible in conservative societies. Suitable adjustment for
clothing has to be made in each case
–  Age- Dimensions increase with age and then start decreasing around 40 years .
Around 40 years of age most people start to shrink in stature. The average
weight of adults increases from ages 20–45 and starts to decline from age 50-60
there is an increase in hip breadth.
–  Ethnicity and nationality -Different ethnic groups have different physical
characteristics
–  Occupation Prolonged practice or involvement in any one type of activity can affect
the development of muscles in a particular manner
–  Special conditions -Special health conditions such as pregnancy or disability change
the body shape and dimensions
Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overviewD. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D chapter 2
 Errors in Anthropometric data

•  Measurement conditions
–  key landmarks misrepresented
–  instruments not calibrated
–  Changes posture during measurement-A stoop or an extra stiff stance can
yield significantly varying results.
–  Human error
•  Personal
•  Parallax
•  Observational

Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D
CHAPTER 3
 Anthropometric design approach for clothing
•  Design for all
•  Design for More/ Design for several sizes /Design for the range
–  Design for the average. This provides a reasonable fit for the majority, near
the middle of the distribution
–  Design for the extremes. In this, very small or larger sizes might exist (e.g.
markets segmented into ‘petite’, ‘plus size’, the very young or the older
markets).
•  Made to-measure bespoke tailoring
•  One size fits all
•  Design for adjustability

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overviewD. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D PAGE 34
Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK SIZING CLOTHING CHAPTER 4
 Anthropometric techniques

•  Traditional anthropometrical methods, human measurers decide the landmark
locations and take measurements manually using traditional tools such as
calipers and a tape measure. These instruments are not very expensive, but
such traditional methods require time to complete the measurements for each
person and are prone to error.

•  New technologies non- contact human body measuring systems i.e.3D body
scanners, with which the 3D body surface shape and landmark locations can be
obtained, and one- dimensional (1D) measurements can be calculated from
these data. Body scanners are much more expensive than traditional tools, but
more people can be measured in a limited time compared to the traditional
methods

Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D
CHAPTER 3
Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D
CHAPTER 3
 Traditional anthropometric methods

Basic postures
The subject stands erect with feet together The
shoulders are relaxed and the arms are hanging
down naturally the head is oriented in the
Frankfurt plane(the right tragion, left tragion, and
left orbitale)

The acromial height (shoulder height) remains

stable as long as the abduction angle is smaller
than approximately 20°, but the biacromial
breadth(Across shoulder) becomes smaller when
the abduction angle is over approximately 5°.

Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D
CHAPTER 3
 Traditional anthropometric methods

Anthropometer Large sliding caliper

Small sliding caliper Spreading caliper

Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D
CHAPTER 3
 3 D Scanners

Types
•  Full Body Scanner
•  Hand & Feet Scanner
•  Head / Face Scanner


Technology
•  Laser Scanning – Human solution, Cyberware , Hamamatsu
•  White Light Projection- TC2, Telmat
•  Millimeter Wave Technology – Intellifit (Alvanon)
•  Infrared scanner/ Depth Sensors- TC2 , Size Stream, Telmat, Styku
 Triangulation

•  Triangulation is used for obtaining the depth information in 3D body scanners

•  A single slit light is projected on the body surface, which is observed by a camera
from a different angle.
•  The length between the light source and the camera ( L ) as well as angles
between the line connecting the light source and camera and the line connecting a
point on the body surface and the light source or the camera ( α and β ) are
known.
•  Therefore, the depth can be calculated.

The time required for scanning the entire body

by slit light ranges from several seconds to
over 10 seconds according to the system used.
However, plural cameras and plural projectors
are often used to minimize the occluded area,
and the time for a scan

Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniques
M. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D CHAPTER 3
 SCANNING PROCESS
https://vimeo.com/250698455
Depth sensing for 3D data acquisition
 Scanning Attire

ISO:20685
 1.A. Calibration, validation & testing of scanner
Measure N subjects by traditional methods (measurer should be a skilled
anthropometrist) and by a 3D body scanner.

Calculate the error for all subjects. The error is defined as the difference between the
scan- derived measurement and the measurement by the skilled anthropometrist.

Calculate the 95% confidence interval of the mean error.
The lower and upper limits of the 95% confidence interval are calculated as the mean
error ± 1.96 × the standard error.
The standard error is calculated as the standard deviation divided by the square root of
N .
•  95% Standard Error = 1.96*Std. Deviation of difference/SQRT(N)
•  Upper Limit = Mean difference (+) 95% Standard Error
•  Lower Limit = Mean difference (-) 95% Standard Error
When the following equations are satisfied, the two types of measurements are
considered sufficiently similar: −the maximum allowable error < lower limit of the 95%
confidence interval of the mean error, and the upper limit of the 95%confidence
interval of the mean error < +the maximum allowable error.
Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D
CHAPTER 3
 Landmarks

Neck line with Chain

Acromion / Shoulder Point Biacromial – Across Shoulder

Highest Shoulder point The neck

Superasternal jacgular notch between shoulder point is the crossing
left and right claviculae /Neck Point point of the neck base line and
Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. the anterior border of the
KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industria, A,S&D CHAPTER 3
ANSUR ISO 7250 trapezius muscle.
 Anterior superior iliac spine Biiliocristal width /
(Illiac crest) / Hip Bone Hip width
Axilla Points / Underarm points

Armscye line – string passing over Axilla

Lowest point of the rib cage points and crossing over Acromiun
 Cervicale/
Thelion / Bust Point Nape point

Olecranon / elbow point

Mesosternale
Chest girth- over Thelion Mesostranale Radial stylion Ulnar stylion Stylion/
Hand lenght
Stylion/ Carpus Wrist bone
Malleolus /Sphyrion/ Pternion/ Heel
Ankle
Omphalion /Umbilical
Naval

Tibiale / / mid patella Suprapatella, sitting / Knee height Popliteal height ,sitting
Knee Point
Bitragion arc / Over the head
Menton / Chin Point

Nuchale Glabella
Sagittal arc Vertex / top of head
Body Planes
 SIZING
(History, size chart development, sizing stand of countries, ISO
History of Sizing 1966-67
1978-81 (1985) Japan
1921 (Army) 1992-94
1937 ( boys and girls) 1969 Australian
1939-40 (women) 2004(with scanner)
1945 standard CS:151 1972-77 Sweden*
1958 update CS:251 2006 (revised)
1970 modified/simplified PS42-70 1972 (men) SABA 039 South Africa
1988 ANSUR 2004
1995 ASTM WOMEN D5586 US 1973 USSR
1998-2002 CAESAR
2002-2003 US 1976 Austria*
2012 ANSUR 1974
2015 UNDERWAY 1987 (updated)GB 1335
1997 (Revised) GB 1335 China
1950 BSI women
1957 army 2006( Scanner)
1974 BS 3666 1979-1986
1992 (revised)
1982 BSI men women children UK* 1997 (updated) Korea
1999-2002 UK
2010 children
2003 (scanner ) 2010 (scanner )

1954- 59 Denmark* 1986 Hungary *MSZ

1957-58 1990 Belgium*
1961-62 (women/girls ) 1988 Finland*
1966 men, boys)
Germany* 1990 Singapore
1981-82 (women/girls )
2008 (scanner) 2003-2004 Mexico
1965(men), 1980-86, 2004 EUROPE**
2000-2002 CAESAR NedScan Netherland* 2005 (children) 2009(adults) Malaysia
1965 (Men)
1969 (women ) France* 2006 Thailand
2005 (revised) 2007 (Children) Taiwan
 Sectors benefited

Primarily focused on -Apparel Industry & Uniforms -Optimizing efficiency of size

charts

Anthropometric data may be used by other industries

v  Work place Ergonomics & Product design – For comfort and functional design,

v  Arts & social sciences: art and sculpture, animation, computer games

v  Medicine: Forensic, prosthetics , fitness and sport etc. to improve the products
and procedures
Methodology for sizing system Development

Apparel sizing: existing sizing systems and the development of new sizing systems N. ZAKARIA, Universiti Teknologi Mara, Malaysia and D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of
Technology, Delhi, India – A,S&D Chapter 1
 Step 1- Anthropometric analysis

1.A. Field work Preparation

§  Identification of scanner
§  Identification of ISO standard
§  Developing the anthropometric protocol (socio- demographic questionnaire)
§  Identification of postures
§  Scan suit
§  Training the measurers
§  Permissions –Ethical committee &Consent form
§  Calibration, validation & testing of scanner
1.B.Anthropometric Planning
§  Sample size determination
§  Pilot run
1.C Anthropometric survey
§  Data entry
1.D Anthropometric Analysis
§  Descriptive Statistical analysis
1.A. Identification of scanning technology
 1.A. Identification of ISO standards
ISO 20685: 2010-11- International standard for 3D scanning methodologies for
international compatible anthropometric data bases for protocol for 3-D

ISO 20685-2:2015(E) - Evaluation protocol of surface shape and repeatability of
relative landmark position

ISO 8559-1:2017 Size designation of clothes- Anthropometric definitions for body
measurement

ISO 8559-2: 2017, Size designation of clothes — Part 2: Primary and secondary
dimension indicators

ISO 8559-3: 2018, Size designation of clothes — Part 3: Methodology of the
creation of the body measurement tables and intervals

ISO 7250-1:2017 Basic human body measurements for technological design -Part
1:Body measurement definitions and landmarks

ISO 15535:2012(E) General requirements for establishing anthropometric
databases
 1.A. Selection of Anthropometric data points and
posture for scanning

ISO 20685
1.A. Selection of Scanning attire

1.A. Identifying and training of
Manpower for Scanning site
 1.A. Permissions –Ethical committee & Consent form

The project involving human subjects requires mandatory clearance from the
Ethical Review committee to be able to undertake the project. This Independent
review committee which is constituted of medical and non-medical members,
whose responsibility is to ensure the protection of the rights, safety and well being
of human subjects involved in research study and to provide public assurance of
that protection, by, among other things, reviewing and approving the study, the
suitability of the investigator and the methods and material to be used in obtaining
and documenting informed consent of the samples
 1.A. Calibration, validation & testing of scanner
1. Measure N subjects by traditional methods (measurer should be a skilled
anthropometrist) and by a 3D body scanner.

2. Calculate the error for all subjects. The error is defined as the difference
between the scan- derived measurement and the measurement by the skilled
anthropometrist.

3. Calculate the 95% confidence interval of the mean error.

The lower and upper limits of the 95% confidence interval are calculated as the
mean error ± 1.96 × the standard error.
The standard error is calculated as the standard deviation divided by the square
root of N .

4. When the following equations are satisfied, the two types of measurements
are considered sufficiently similar: −the maximum allowable error < lower limit of
the 95% confidence interval of the mean error, and the upper limit of the
95%confidence interval of the mean error < +the maximum allowable error.

Anthropometric methods for apparel design: body measurement devices and techniquesM. KOUCHI , National Institute of Advanced Industrial AS&D CHAPTER 3
 1.B.Anthropometric Planning-
Sampling framework

•  Using a stratified sampling method, one can come up with a sample size
that as far as possible represents the various attributes of that population.
The attributes that influence the selection of the sample are gender, ethnic
group, age group, occupation, geographical location and other social-
demographic requirement Many of these attributes can be obtained from
the national census office and the information will then form the starting
point in selecting the sample size.

•  PILOT RUN
 1.C.Anthropometric survey

Data collection


Few of the typical recruitment process which have been undertaken for attracting
participants are as follows
•  Large scale propaganda, seminars, conference, talk shows, advertisements,
banner, hoardings and news items in the region where survey is to undertaken.
•  Issuing appointments on website of the project and giving first preference to
people coming through appointments to save time of the participant
•  Location of scanner in retail hub/ mall and inviting walk-ins
•  Recruitment of agency to attract crowd
•  Gift coupons, lucky draws to motivate crowd for participation


1.C.Anthropometric Analysis

Descriptive statistics

•  Categorical data – understand demographic profile of sample population
i.e. Male Female , age, region etc..
•  Continuous data – frequency distribution, range, mean, median, standard
deviation, correlation etc.

Apparel sizing: existing sizing systems and the development of new sizing systems N. ZAKARIA, Universiti Teknologi Mara, Malaysia and D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of
Technology, Delhi, India – A,S&D Chapter 1
 Stage 2 Sizing Analysis &
Stage 3 Sizing system Development
 Method of creating a sizing system

•  The development of a sizing system originates from an anthropometric study

or survey.
•  The data is analyzed statistically to obtain the standard body measurements
(SBM) size charts of the population.
•  The SBM size charts in turn will have the required ease allowances added to
obtain the required garment size charts for individual size charts by designers
and manufacturers.
•  Fit testing is required to ensure that the final size charts are appropriate for
fitting to the targeted market.

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR A,S&D Chapter 7
 Steps of Sizing development

STEP 1- Size system development

Identification of key / primary / control dimensions, size range, size interval For
example Key dimension- Height; Size range 160cm- 185cm; Size interval- 5cm
(No.of sizes-5 )

STEP 2- Size system validation – Coverage range %, Aggregate loss, Size roll

STEP 3- Size system designation

Apparel sizing: existing sizing systems and the development of new sizing systems N. ZAKARIA, Universiti Teknologi Mara, Malaysia and D. GUPTA, Indian
Institute of Technology, Delhi, India – A,S&D Chapter 1
 Approaches to Size system devp.

•  Indirect-uses two measurements, e.g. height and weight as controls and these
measurements are not directly related to the fit of the garment For example
Loose garments where fit is generally not important can use the indirect approach,
e.g. casual overalls

•  Direct-uses dimensions as controls where fit is critical and important i.e. selects
variable on which a good fit of the garment is dependent For example shirt
collar, sleeve

•  Hybrid -Indirect- direct approach-has been used in some sizing systems where
one of the controls is an indirect dimension, e.g. height and another control is a
direct measurement e.g. chest girth

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR A,S&D Chapter 7
 Broad Steps for Size system devp

Anthropometric analysis
•  Step A- Understanding of the individual measurements by descriptive
Stats
•  Step B- Identification of Key measurements by correlation, bivariate and
multivariate analysis.

Size system development
•  Step C- Range selection for Key measurements
•  Step D- Selection of size interval and forming grading rule of all key and
secondary measurements
•  Step E- Categorization of Body shape & identification of drop values
•  Step F- Identification of all size rolls that cover the entire population
 Step A- Understanding of the individual measurements
by descriptive Stats

Stats to provide understanding of the individual measurements

•  the distribution of the sample measured in terms of their attributes;
•  Descriptive stats- such as mean, median, mode, skewness, kurtosis, variance,
standard error, range, standard deviation of each measurement;

All measurements of are mapped against the frequency and virtually all measurements
formed normal distribution curve Then descriptive stats like mean standard deviation is
performed to understand behavior of each measurement

Body shape analysis and identifi cation of key dimensions for apparel sizing systems N. ZAKARIA , Universiti Teknologi Mara, Malaysia A,S&D CHAPTER 4
S
T
E
P

A

The development of
apparel sizing systems
from anthropometric
data A. C. K. CHAN,
The Hong Kong
Polytechnic University,
Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER
7 A,S&D
 Stats to provided understanding the behavior of various measurements when
pitted against each other.
•  correlation and bivariate plots between two measurements;
Showed relation between two measures i.e. 1 grows other also grows like chest and
hip (big chest men tend to have big hip) 1 grows other also doesnt grow e.g stature
and chest girth 1 grows other decreases
Selection was done of measurements well correlated Stature / waist height for
vertical dimensions And weight , hip, chest and waist with girth measurements

•  multiple regression analysis. To understand relation between selected

measurements
It was conducted between stature and weight, chest girth, waist girth , hip girth with
other measurements. Natural waist with and weight, chest girth, waist girth , hip
girth with other measurements.

Body shape analysis and identifi cation of key dimensions for apparel sizing systems N. ZAKARIA , Universiti Teknologi Mara, Malaysia A,S&D CHAPTER 4
The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Principal component analysis (PCA)
Principal component analysis (PCA) is the most common form of factor analysis, and is
categorized as a multivariate statistical technique. It is used to analyze
interrelationships among a large number of variables.
The objective of using PCA was to reduce the number of variables and to cluster them
into more parsimonious and manageable groups. These groups are known as the
components (factors).
Each component contains interrelated variables. Thus, from these components, the key
dimensions can be selected. Subsequently, these key dimensions can be used to cluster
the sample population into homogeneous subgroups.

PCA uses an orthogonal method called the Varimax technique. This method is chosen
as all the factors are to be treated as independent and are not correlated. In the first
step, the variables are extracted and reduced. To determined how many components
were to be retained by using three criteria.
1 For the latent root criterion, the Kaiser rule ensures the Eigen value is greater than 1
which proves it is signifi cant. Thus, all components more than 1 are extracted and
retained.
2. Percentage of total variance- All components should have a percentage of total
variance of more than 80% for significant value as recommended.
3. Scree plot- the significant components are those curves that begin to straighten out.,
three points on the curve show three significant components
Body shape analysis and identifi cation of key dimensions for
apparel sizing systems N. ZAKARIA , Universiti Teknologi Mara,
Malaysia A,S&D CHAPTER 4
 STEP B-Identifying Control / Key / Primary measurements

Those body measurements on which the sizing system is based, they are fundamental
to the definition of the body size used to assign suitably- sized garments to the wearers.
MEASURMENTS WHICH ARE REQUIRED TO BE TAKEN ON THE INDIVIUAL INTENDED
TO BE FITTED In systems which have more than one control measurement, the
importance given to each descriptor will be primary, secondary and tertiary, in that
order. For example ISO upper body –Stature, bust and hip girth

Selection of key dimensions - Different planes , Not correlated to each other, each
correlates with secondary measurements , convenient to take(crotch length poor)

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Step C- Range selection for Key measurements

‘Size range’ – the extent of a size scale as defined by its extreme values (smallest and
largest values). For example Chest 76- 106 cm

For Example
Stature ranges from 150 to 183 cm with the 5 percentile value at 160 cm and the 95
percentile at 177.5 cm. The spread of the middle 90% of the population is thus 17.5 cm
and the intervals for stature are conveniently set at 6 cm to read as follows:

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Chest girth range is effectively from 79.0–97.0 cm which is about equal to the values of
the 5th and the 95th percentile values.
This range of 18 cm can again be divided into three groups of based on an interval of 6
cm each
Small 79.0–84.9 cm
Medium 85.0–90.9 cm
Big 91.0–96.9 cm

Hip girth is effectively from 82 to 100 cm, which is equivalent to the 5th to 95th
percentile range
The range of 18 cm, can be divided into three groups labeled , based on an interval
of 6 cm each
Small 82.0–87.9 cm
Medium 88.0–93.9 cm
Big 94.0–99.9 cm.

Average Man-Stature 169 Hip 91cm Chest 88cm

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Step D- Selection of size interval and forming grading rule

‘Size interval’ or alternatively ‘Size step’, ‘Size grade’ or ‘Intersize interval’ – the
incremental difference between adjacent components of a size scale. For example Size
interval for Chest 6cm Hip 6 cm
Many previous determinations on which trade practice is based, derive from
experience or trial and error, and one can find a range of size intervals from as narrow
as 3 cm to as large as 8 cm.

‘Size scale’ – the set of sizes of one body dimension, e.g. chest, waist, etc. having fixed
or variable size intervals. For example

Chest range 79-85 85-91 91-96 96-102 102-108
Chest 82 88 94 100 106
Hip Range 82-88 88-94 94-100 100-106 106-112
Hip 85 91 97 103 109

it is the practice to use an odd number of sizes as this allows the middle size to stand out
for grading purposes
The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Step D- Selection of size interval and forming grading rule

•  Regression equation are used to decide on the values of the key or control
measurements that will define the separate sizes.

•  ‘Secondary measurements’ – those body measurements, besides the control

measurements, that are required to define the body size fully and they are
restricted to garment manufacturing interests and hence are of no concern to
the general consumer for example –waist girth, hip girth, across chest/ back,
armscye etc..

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7
A,S&DCreating sizing systems –A Petrov Cornell university USA SIZING IN CLOTHING 63-67
•  The regression equations used in the calculation of changes of body measurements
are based on the key measurements of stature, chest girth and hip girth. For each
equation the correlation coefficients and the constants will be provided by a
statistical program so that the regression equations can be constructed.
•  Hence, for a man of average 169 cm stature, 88 cm chest and 91 cm hip, the
average measurements for the rest of this person as calculated from the regression
equations are shown in Column 1

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D




GRADING RULE

Average man is defined the start of the size range.

Columns 2, 3 and 4 show the increases or decreases in each dimension for a 6 cm change in stature, chest
and hip girths respectively, and show the adjustment to be made to the values in Column 1 for an increase
or decrease of 6 cm in the control dimensions. These changes are useful for grading purposes.

The development of
apparel sizing systems from
anthropometric data A. C.
K. CHAN, The Hong Kong
Polytechnic University,
Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7
A,S&D
Step E- Categorization of Body shape &
identification of drop values
Estimated percentage distribution of
the population by chest and hip
girths

short stature – 163 cm
Short Stature (17 sizes) – 25.9%
(24.5%)


Medium stature – 169 cm
Medium Stature (18 sizes) – 46.7%
(43.9%)


Tall stature – 175 cm
Tall Stature (11 sizes) – 18.1%
(17.3%)
total 85.7%
The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric
data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong
Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Step E- Categorization of Body shape & identification of drop
values

Drop values – relation between two dimension that are used to identify body type
For example Bust and hip for women chest and waist for men

•  Very Small Chest – chest 15 cm smaller than hip

•  Small Chest – chest 9 cm smaller than hip
•  Normal Chest – chest 3 cm smaller than hip
•  Full Chest – chest 3 cm bigger than hip
•  Big Chest – chest 9 cm bigger than hip

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D

Step F- Identification of all size rolls that cover the entire
population

‘Size Roll’ – Total number of sizes obtained from sizing system -46
Ideally More sizes better fit as designated sizes will be closer to the actual fit
Fewer sizes less efficient sizing system
Practicality – optimum

POPULATION COVERAGE

S M T TOTAL
0.6 . 9 .2 1.7
2 8.8 4 14.8
12.2 26.6 10 48.8
8.8 9 4.5 22.3
6 1.4 .4 1.8
29.6 445.8 19.1 94.5

‘Normal Chest’ cover about half (48.8%) of the population covered by the full range
of sizes

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Example of formal shirt
Control measurement: neck girth. : arm length/ Stature .
The above two size scales can be supported by some other secondary measurements
such as chest, waist, hip, wrist, natural waist, cross front and back widths, armscye, etc.
to form a more comprehensive size roll.
From these measurements, allowances will be included for ease of wearing/movement,
comfort and fashion styling, to arrive at the required garment size chart.

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 STEP 2- Size system validation

•  Accommodation rate / Cover range (%)- The portion of population provided for
by the sizing system is called accommodation range of the sizing system. It is
calculated as %of sample accommodated under each body type and each
assigned size . Sizes that fall under 2% may be ignored. %s of each size is added
to calculate total % of population covered by a system. Typically cover factor is
65% - 80%
•  Aggregated loss (cm)- Goodness of fit . Degree of closeness with actual body
measurements. Euclidian distance
–  Euclidian Distance is average of under root of square of difference between
the actual size and assigned size
–  Ideal loss i =n ½ (no of control variables used)is in inches
–  If distance is less that ideal loss it is good fit
•  One of the aims of the above work and analysis has been trying to minimize the
number of sizes to be defined while maximizing their cover rates in order to
facilitate the production work of the industry

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Fit testing and sizing evaluation

•  for the eventual success of the sizing program, an essential part of the
development is a ‘Fit test’ in which garments made in accordance with the
sizing system are worn by subjects representing the size range of the user
population, and are carefully evaluated for its intended function and fit
requirements.
•  The fit test is a psycho- physical experiment in which observers make judgments
about the sensations they experience in response to certain physical stimuli
relating to the fit of clothing on their bodies.

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
 Sizing
development
flow chart

Apparel sizing: existing sizing

systems and the development of
new sizing systems N.
ZAKARIA, Universiti Teknologi
Mara, Malaysia and
D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of
Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D
Chapter 1
 STEP 3- Size system designation

Types of system
•  Uni-dimensional For example Headwear only head girth is required
•  Bi-dimensional For example Gloves Key hand girth secondary hand length
•  Tri dimensional system where critical degree of fit at define areas of body is
desired like clothing needs development of sizing systems

The development of apparel sizing systems from anthropometric data A. C. K. CHAN, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR CHAPTER 7 A,S&D
‘Size label’/ ‘Size designation system’ - refers to how each size is identified on
clothing or the tag. Numeric, alphabetic or graphic For example For example S,M,L
or 40,44 or 8,10 or 38, 40 or ISO recommends Mondoform
 ISO Size labeling
•  Size designation of clothes —Part 2:Primary and secondary dimension indicators
•  Provides Primary and secondary Dimension which go on the label
•  Product range-
•  Outer garment ( Jackets, suits, overcoats, trousers, skirts, dresses,
cardigans, blouses overalls)
•  Underwear( vest, trunks, leggings , nightwear , swim wear
•  Corsetry/ intimate apparel (Bra, panty , corsetry upper and lower body)
•  Hosiery (stockings, socks, panty hose)
•  Gloves
•  Headgears
Labeling
 Garment sizing system

To give good garment fit the garment sizing system classifies

consumers into 3-10 body types.
Douty in 1968 developed two scales
the Body Build scale BS which classified body types by BMI like thin,
slender, average, stocky and heavy
The Posture Scale PS body type was classified basis alignment of each
body segment -bad, poor, average good excellent

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CAHPTER 10 A,S&D
 International Standards
•  ISO
There are several ISO standards for size designation of clothes, but most have them are
being revised and replaced by one of the parts of ISO 8559 which closely resembles
European Standard EN 13402
SO 8559-1: 2017, Size designation of clothes — Part 1: Anthropometric definitions
for body measurement
:
ISO 8559-2: 2017, Size designation of clothes — Part 2: Primary and secondary
dimension indicators
ISO 8559-3: 2018, Size designation of clothes — Part 3: Methodology of the
creation of the body measurement tables and intervals
•  Asia
China GB/T
GB/T 1335.1-2008 Size designation of clothes - Men
GB/T 1335.2-2008 Size designation of clothes - Women
GB/T 1335.3-2008 Size designation of clothes - Children
GB/T 2668-2002 Sizes for coats, jackets and trousers
GB/T 14304-2002 Sizes for woolen garments

•  Japan- JIS
JIS L 4001 (1997) Sizing systems for infants' garments
JIS L 4002 (1997) Sizing systems for boys' garments
JIS L 4003 (1997) Sizing systems for girls' garments
JIS L 4004 (1997) Sizing systems for men's garments
JIS L 4005 (1997) Sizing systems for women's garments
JIS L 4006 (1997) Sizing systems for foundation garments
JIS L 4007 (1997) Sizing systems for Hosiery and Pantyhose

•  South Korea- KS
KS K 0050 (2009) Men's wear
KS K 0051 (2004) Women's wear
KS K 0052 Infants
KS K 0059 Headgear
KS K 0070 Brassiere
KS K 0037 Dress Shirts
KS K 0088 Socks

•  Australia AS
AS1344-1972, 1975, 1997 Size coding scheme for women's clothing
AS1182 - 1980 - Size coding scheme for infants and children's clothing

Europe : CEN The European Standards Organisation (CEN) produced a series of
standards, prefixed with EN 13402. Body measurements and international standards
of the 33 member states
EN 13402-1:2001 Terms, definitions and body measurement procedure
EN 13402-2:2002 Primary and secondary dimensions(UNDER REVIEW)
EN 13402-3: 2017 Size designation of clothes.

United Kingdom (BOTH UNDER REVIEW)
BS 3666:1982 Specification for size designation of women's wear
BS 6185:1982 Specification for size designation of men's wear

Germany
DOB-Verband (1983)

France
AFNOR NF G 03-001 (1977) - Human body - Vocabulary - Pictogram;
AFNOR EXP G 03-002 (1977) - Women Measures
AFNOR EXP G 03-003 (1977) - Men Measures
AFNOR EXP G 03-006 (1978) - Measures of babies and young children
AFNOR EXP G 03-007 (1977) - Size designation of clothes for men, women and children
AFNOR NF G 03-008 (1984) - Tights - Sizes - Designation - Marking
United States
ASTM D6240 / D6240M - 12e1
ASTM D5585 - 11e1 Standard Tables of Body
Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Measurements for Mature Men, ages
Adult Female Misses Figure Type, Size Range 35 and older, Sizes Thirty-Four to
00–20 Fifty-Two (34 to 52) Short, Regular,
and Tall
ASTM D6829 - 02(2015)
Standard Tables of Body Measurements for
Juniors, Sizes 0 to 19 ASTM D8077 / D8077M - 16
Standard Tables for Body
ASTM D6960 / D6960M - 16e1 Measurements for Mature Big Men
Standard Tables for Body Measurements for Type, Size Range 46–64
Plus Women's Figure Type, Size Range 14W –
40W
ASTM D8241 / D8241M - 19
ASTM D7878 / D7878M - 13e1
Standard Tables of Body
Standard Tables for Body Measurements for
Measurements for Young Men Type,
Adult Female Misses Petite Figure Type, Size
Size Range 32 – 48
Range 00P – 20P
 ISO garment sizing system :1991
Men Women
Height- (6 cm) Height (6 cm)
164-188 cm 160-176 cm
164 160 S Short
170 168 R regular
176 176 L Long
182
188
Body type Body type
(Chest and waist drop values) (Hip and Bust drop values )
A Athletic (16 cm) A Full hips (12 cm)(10-16cm) Hips larger than bust
R Regular ( 12 cm) M Medium ( 6 cm)(4-8cm)
P Portly ( 6 cm) H Slim Hips ( 0 cm) (2- -6cm)Hips equal to or smaller
S Stout (0 cm) than Bust
C Corpulent (- 6 cm )

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizes J. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
Communikcation of sizing and fit J.Chun Yonsei Sizing in clothing Chapter 7
 America
1921 US Measured 10,000 men after 1st world war
1937 US size survey of 1,47,000 boys and girls nationwide
1939-40 US 1,50,000 women
1945 Standard CS: 151 issued by Mail order Association of America was published
US CS 251:58 by NBS. Body measurements for size of women patterns & apparels using
1958 same data of 1945
US Voluntary Products Sizing standard PS 42 -70 simplified CS 251:58 simplified CS
1970 251:58
1988 ANSUR (US army personal )1774 men 2208 women
ASTM American society of Testing and Material updated D 5585 - 94 No new data
1994 collected complied after discussion with designers and market
ASTM made standards for 55 yrs and above women by measuring 6000 manual D 5586
1995 - 95 released
CAESAR Civilian American & European Surface Anthropometry Resource – 3 countries
North America (US& Canada), Italy, Netherland (691 female 564 male) 10,000 scans by
1998-2002 use of 3D scanner Cyberware With ASTM & SAE( Society of Automobiles)
2000-2002 Size Netherland using Cyberware as part of CASEAR
2002-2003 SizeUS TC2 measuring 10,800 people
2012 ANSUR II
2016 Size North America
 American Garment size codes

•  Men clothing – communicated in terms of body measurement For example size 38

jacket means 38” chest . Dress shirt 15-38 means collar 15” and Sleeve length from
Nape point 38”
•  Women size use codes that correspond with height bust waist and hip but do not
correspond with any body measurement. Manufacturers sizing is not published
except on line shopping and some catalogues

History
•  1930’s garment were labeled basis body measurement or age i.e. 34 to 52
corresponded with bust Missy was labeled 14 to 20 and juniors 13 to 19
corresponding to there age. Later it was disintegrated.
•  Later 1980 women's size began to be labeled using numerical size codes as Missy
i.e. 36 was replaced by 16
•  Vanity sizing took place size 2, 0 have ben added
•  Brands also have there own size labels like Chico's size 0, 1,2,3
 American Garment sizing system
Categories Description Sizes Nomenclature
Infants Less than 90cm 6 0-3M, 3-6M,6-9M,9-12M, 12-18M, 18-24M
(60cm to 88cm)
Toddlers 18months to 4 yrs 4 1T, 2T, 3T,4T
Pre school 2 to 6 yrs 6 2 Chest waist drop value 0
Little children (6X) 3 1.3cm
4 2.3cm
5 3.9cm
6 5.1cm
Boys 7 to 17 Regular 8R to 20R Stature Chest
127-173cm 67-90cm
Drop Values 8R 7.6; 10R 8.8; 14R 11.4
CH-W in cm
Slim 8S to 14S 125-155cm 64-76cm
Drop Values 8S 9.5; 10S 10.8; 14S 13.4
CH-W in cm
Categories Description Sizes Nomenclature
Girls 7 to 16 Regular 7R to 16R Stature Chest
130-159cm 67-90cm
Drop Values B-W in cm 7R 8.9; 10R 11.4; 14R 14
Drop Values H-B in cm 7R 3.2; 10R 3.2; 14R 5.7

Slim 7S to 16S 130-159cm 66-84cm
Drop Values B -W in cm 7S 10.1; 10S 12.7; 14S 15.2
Drop Values H-B in cm 7S 3.8; 10S 3.8; 14S 6.4

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 American System Women ASTM
•  It was in 1958 that The US Department of commerce published the Body
Measurements for the Sizing of Women’s Patterns and Apparel , The commercial
standard ’CS251-58’9 (1945)
•  Four classifications of women:
–  ‘Misses’(6-22),
–  ‘Women’(34 to 52),
–  ‘Half-sizes’(12 ½ -26 ½) and
–  ‘Junior’(odd-13,15) .
•  This was followed by groups defined as:
–  ‘Short’(P)(petite),
–  ‘Regular’(R ) and
–  ‘Tall’(T).
•  Then again with four sub-groups within each of these groups: ‘bust-hip’,
–  ‘slender’(-),
–  ‘average’ and
–  ‘full’(+).
•  SIZE DESIGNATION - 14S+ or 13T-
Apparel size designation and labellingM.-E. FAUST, Philadelphia University, USA and Université du Québec à Montréal (UQÀM), Canada Chapter 9 A,S&D
•  Modified/simplified TC133 ‘technical committee’ entitled ‘Sizing Systems and
Désignations ’ PS 542 -70
•  New standard included body measurements for four classifications as follows:
juniors’, misses’, women’s and half-sizes
•  Juniors’ petite sizes ranging from 3P to 15P.(New 3 size addition 1, 17,19)
•  Misses’ sizes ranging from 6 to 22.(New addition 2011
Missy Curvy / Missy Straight -Curvy has waist 4cm smaller and hip 2 cm bigger
than Straight )
•  Misses’ tall sizes ranging from 10T to 22T.
•  Women’s sizes ranging from 34 to 52.(Later names as Plus)
•  Half sizes ranging from 12½ to 26½.

Women / Misses Junior 3-15 Half Sizes

Plus 34-52 6-22 now 1-19
Tall T 6ft and above 10T -22T
Regular (5ft5”- 5ft9”) 34-52 6-22 3-7 12½ to 26½
Short/ Petite P (4ft8’’- 5ft 4”) 8P-18P 3P-15P
 American system Men ASTM
The US standard men’s garment sizing system (ASTM D6240-98) gives 27 sizes
from 34 to 60. They are simplified to seven letter sizes: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, and
4XL (ASTM International, 2006a). Newer version is (ASTM D6240M – 12 e has 3
height groups and range from 34-52

Size Chest in cm Waist girth in cm Drop value

Small (S) 34 to 37 86.4 to 94.0 71.1 to 78.7 15.3 cm.
Medium (M) 38 to 41 96.5to 104.1 81.3 to 98.9 15.2 cm.
Large ( L ) 42 to 45 106.7 to 114.3 91.4 to 99.7 14.6 cm to 15.3 cm.
Extra-Large ( XL ) 46 to 49 116.3 to 124.5 102.9 to 112.4 12.1 cm to 13.3 cm.
Two-Extra-Large ( 2XL ) 50 to 53 127.0 to 134.6 115.6 to 125.7 8.9 cm to 11.4 cm
Three-Extra-Large (3XL ) 54 to 57 137.2 - 144.8 129.5 to 142.2 2.6 cm to 7.7 cm
The men’s size Four-Extra- 58 to 60 147.3 to 152.4 147.3 to 157.5 5.1 cm to 0 cm. It
Large ( 4XL ) means that the size
4XL is for men whose
waist girth is larger
than their chest girth
International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 German

1957-58 Germany published 1st size table

German Survey undertaken Standards released in year 1963 for
1961-62 women /girls outerwear published in 1966
1966 German size label for men and boys
1981-82 Germany further took measurement of 10,000 women and girls
2008 Size Germany released
 German Garment sizing system GoB-Verband 1983

•  Men - 59 sizes in all

•  Chest – 88 cm to 116 cm -4cm interval ( Size scale7 sizes)
•  Waist 72- 120 – 4 cm interval ( Size Scale 12 sizes)

Height overlapping category S Short M Medium T Tall

Body type (Chest and waist drop values ) 156-174 168-174 177-190
Waist sizes
A Athletic 16cm SA X MA TA
72-92cm 72-92cm
N Normal 12 cm SN X MN TN X
76-108 cm
S Slim 8cm SS MS TS
82-112cm 80-110 cm 76-96cm
L Large 6 cm SL X ML TL X
80-102cm
P Stocky -6cm SP MP TP X
waist is bigger than chest 96-120cm 96-120cm

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
•  German women DOBVerband) - 73 sizes in all
•  Hip- 84- 136
•  Bust – 84 cm to 128 cm

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
Jongsuk Chun-Yoon
Cynthia R. Jasper,
(1993),"Garment-sizing
Systems: An International
Comparison",
International Journal of
Clothing Science and
Technology, Vol. 5 Iss 5
pp. 28 - 37
 Garment size codes

Code Drop Short Average Tall Bust hip Size Label

Value code Regular code indi
code cati
on
Medium/ - 2-8 16-26 32-60 72-96 Medium 84 91 18 18
Normal / Normal 110 114 96 96
Small / 0 2- -4 018-025 032- 072- Small / 84 85 18 018
slim 060 096 slim 110 108 96 096

Large / 5 8-13 518-526 532-60 572- Large / 84 97 18 518

Full Hip 596 Full Hip 110 120 96 596

•  Numerical 18 corresponds with 84cm bust

•  018, 036, 072 are size codes for women with slim hips and different height categories
•  18,018,581 are size codes for Short women with Average , slim and full hip respt.
 Japanese

1966-67 The Japanese JIS standard size survey of 35,000 subjects

1978-81 Japan further study 50,000 subjects for male and female
1985 Japan JISL 4003 was published
34000 Japanese were measured using 3D scanner (7- 90 yrs)
1992-94 Hamamatsu
 Japanese Garment Sizing System JIS

Categories Description Sizes / Nomenclature Size nomenclature/Options

Infants Less than 125cm 6 sizes 10 cm 50-100 (50,60,70,80,90,100)
1997 Additionally 75, 85, 95
Boys Stature from 90 to 180 cm (10 cm size interval)
1997 Size nomenclature is as per the height
A Regular 90 to 110 4 chest options are available
Y Slim 120-180 in each body type
Is more options than US
B Full Figure 120-180
E Full Figure 130-170
Girls Stature from 90 to 170cm (10 cm size interval)
1997 Size nomenclature is as per the height
A Regular 90 to 110 4 bust options are available
Y Slim 120-170 in each body type
Is more options than US
B Full Figure/ Plump 120-170
E Full Figure/Plump 130-160
International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 Japanese Garment Sizing System- WOMEN JIS

A - 4cm A+4cm A+8cm

Shorter than ISO

Taller will not

find garment
Total No Of Sizes 26 36 37 15
International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 Japanese Garment Sizing System- MEN JIS
Chest and waist drop Chest
value TOTAL 74 SIZES
Body type

Body type
86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100 102 104
Height

Value
Drop

J 20 68 70 72 74 76 78 80
160-190
Athletic

JY 18 70 72 74 76 78 80 82
A 16 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84
YA 14 72 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 88
Average

155-190

A 12 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88
AB 10 78 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 94
B 8 82 84 86 88 90 92 94
Full body

155-180

BB 6 86 88 90 92 94 96 98
BE 4 90 92 94 96 98 100
E 0 94 96 98 100 102 104

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 Japanese Size codes

•  Women garment size labels used 3 way sizing system identifying body types, girth
measurements and height i.e. 9AP means Bust 82cm (32.3”) Hip 90cm (35.4”) and
150cm (4ft 11”) height
•  It also recommends different waist girth in the same size basis age
9AP women in 20s waist girth is 64cm (25.5”)
9AP women in 30s- 50s waist girth is 67cm (26.4”)
So same label for different body proportions
 Chinese

1974 China proposed GB1335-81 (have been modified since to GB 1335 - 2008)
1987 To update GB 1335-81 measured 14000 men women and children
Chinese standards GB 1135 - 91 was published after discussion with
1991 industry academia and experts
1997 GB-1335-97 updated
2006 Size China using 3D Scanner
 Chinese system GB/T 1335

Men & Drop Height Chest Waist Women Height

Women C-W Range 72-112cm Drop
Interval 4 cm B-W
Y Athletic 20-18 155-185 76-100 14 waist option 22-20 145-175
– 2 per chest
56-82
B Stocky 16-12 150-175 72-108 20 waist option 18-14 145-175
– 2 per chest
56-88
A Average 10-8 150-175 72-100 24 waist option 12-10 145-175
– 3 per chest
62-100
C Portly 6-4 155-185 72-112 20 waist option 8-4 145-175
– 2 per chest
70-108

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CAHPTER 10 A,S&D
 Korean

Korean Agency for technology and standards KATS published KSK17000

1979 subjects age 6-50yrs 117 measurements traditional way
1986 Korean standard was published
1990 Size labeling system by Korea
1992 Korean standard revised
1997 Koran standard updated
2003 Korean survey using 3 D scanner
2010 Korean Standard revised using 3D scanner
 Korean System KS

•  6 sizing surveys 1979,1986, 1992,1997, 2003, 2010 (3D body scanners)

•  Grouping of samples by age classes.
–  ‘girls’ between 5 and 13
–  ‘young ladies’ 14 and 17 years and
–  ‘women’ related to subjects aged years, and 17 -60 years,.
•  Body shape grouping by bust- hip drop value for women in order to distinguish the
existing body types as per ISO
•  Size intervals. Body size designations for bust and hip girth are presented at inter-
size intervals of 3 cm, and of 5 cm for height dimension.
•  Key dimensions. three basic (control) dimensions specified by ISO, namely bust, hips
and height.

Developing apparel sizing systems for particular groups Y.-S. LEE, Chonnam National University, South Korea, A,S&D CHAPTER 8
The size range of the three key dimensions and intervals are
determined as
follows.
Height dimension, which ranges from 145 cm to 175 cm, size
interval of 5 cm
Bust dimension ranges from 73 cm to 106 cm, size interval of 3
cm In the case of upper
Hip dimension from 78 cm to 104 cm and size interval of 3 cm body garments of
Waist girth from 73 cm to 106 cm. size interval of 2 cm women in their
twenties, the letter
code size ranges
corresponding to S, M,
L and LL

Developing apparel sizing systems for

particular groups Y.-S. LEE, Chonnam
National University, South Korea, A,S&D
CHAPTER 8
Developing apparel sizing systems for particular groups Y.-S. LEE, Chonnam National University, South Korea, A,S&D CHAPTER 8
Developing apparel sizing systems for particular groups Y.-S. LEE, Chonnam National University, South Korea, A,S&D CHAPTER 8
 Korean Men KS

Body type Chest- height Waist Chest

2004 waist drop
Y Athletic 21 165- 185 67-85 Range 85-109
A Average 15 160-180 70-94 Interval 3 cm
Sizes 85,88,91,94, 97,
B Full Figure 12 160-180 73-97 100, 103, 106, 109
BB Full Figure 9 160-175 73-97
Height range Short S( 155- 165) Regular R(165-175) Tall T (175-185)

SIZE CODE FOR GARMENTS

Korean Men sizes start from 85 and end at 109 in chest measurement
Example
95 AR Chest 95cm waist 80cm stature 170cm
100 BT 100cm Chest 100cm waist 88cm Stature 180cm

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 Europen
British Standard institution (BS1345). Developed size for women
1947 blouses
1950 British Board of trade published results of 5000 women
1957 UK – published data collected from military
1982 BSI developed 3666 for womens 3728 for children and 5592 men
UNIFORM EURPOEAN SIZE STANDARD COMMITTEE OF 12 COUNTRIES
1996 WAS MADE TO MAKE EN 13402 WHICH WAS RELEASED IN 2004
1999-2002 SizeUK TC2 11000 adults
2004 EN 13402 RELEASED
Shape GB by UK to measure children between 4-17 2500 boys and
2010 girls
 European Sizing system

Height Chest options Chest size in Chest size in

Size 140 in US

Infants Less than 90cm
as US not as per ISO
104 cm
Boys 92-194cm Slim 62 70
6 cm interval Regular 72 73
Taller than US boys Slim is smaller
125-173 than US
Girls 92-164cm Slim 64 68.6
Taller than US boys Regular 76 72.4
130-159 Slim is smaller
than US

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 European sizing system –BS EN

The European standard men’s garment sizing system does not specify body types.
four different waist sizes for each chest size.
Seven chest-waist drop values are offered: 24 cm, 22 cm, 20 cm, 12 cm, 4 cm, 0 cm, and -4cm.
Forty-eight chest and waist combination sizes are available
Ten height sizes are available from 160 cm to 196 cm with 4 cm intervals.

The European standard women’s garment sizing system

Sixteen bust sizes are given from 76 cm to 152 cm with 4 cm intervals.
Eighteen hip sizes are given from 76 cm to 152 cm with a 4 to 5 cm interval. The European
standard women’s garment sizing system does not declare
Specific body types. However, it gives five different hip sizes for each bust size. Women’s
garment sizes are available with various hip proportions. The hip-bust drop values for bust
sizes from 76 to 96 cm are 16 cm, 12 cm, 8 cm, 4 cm, and 0 cm
Seventy-seven bust and hip combination sizes are available in total.
Five height groups are available for women’s garment sizes: 156-188 with an 8 cm interval.

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 5 hip potion for
each bust
77 options

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 4 waist
potion for
each
Chest
48
options

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 Hungarian Standard

Women garments are discribed by 3 key dimensions Height Bust and hip 170-88-92
Jongsuk Chun-Yoon Cynthia R. Jasper, (1993),"Garment-sizing Systems: An International Comparison", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol.
5 Iss 5 pp. 28 - 37
 Austrian Sizing system

Jongsuk Chun-Yoon Cynthia R. Jasper, (1993),"Garment-sizing Systems: An International Comparison", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 5 Iss 5
pp. 28 - 37
 despite ISO’s efforts, the countries could not neglect consumers’ preference for a
national clothing sizing system with which they are familiar, and thus, still continue to
use the former national sizing system.
Therefore, clothing based on the same physical features follows different sizing
systems. Even when following the same sizing system, in practice, the corresponding
measurements are different and cause confusion to consumers who seek imported
products or products from abroad.
For instance, 92 cm bust girth clothing is
labeled differently in different countries as shown below:




Moreover, measurements in various countries corresponding to the identical size code
40

Developing apparel sizing systems for particular groups Y.-S. LEE, Chonnam National University, South Korea, A,S&D CHAPTER 8
 Comparison Men and women sizes across standards
MEN Height Chest waist Height Bust Hip
ISO 164-188 80-116 68-120 160-176 80-116 87- 123
ASTM 172-187 86-152 71-158 162-173 76-152 76-152
BS EN 160-196 84-144 72-132 156-188 76-152 76-152
JIS 155-190 86-104 68-104 142-166 74-124 83-117
GB/T 150-185 72-112 56-108 145-175 68-108 No Hip
50cm waist
GoB 156-190 88-116 72-120 160-176 84-128 84-136
KS 165-185 85-109 70-97 145-175 73-106 78-104
Less than Smallest Less than Smallest Small bust Widest
164cm chest GB/T 70cm EN GB/ KS range
JIS GB EN JIS KS GB ASTM US
More than Biggest chest More than Tallest EN Big bust US
185cm ASTM 120 ASTM
EN JIS GoB US EN GoB
ASTM

International apparel sizing systems and standardization of apparel sizesJ. CHUN, Yonsei University, South Korea CHAPTER 10 A,S&D
 Comparison of different countries size chart (Women)
Bust US/ UK/AU Japan France EN Italy Germany Korean
China 2003
(2009)
81 (32) 2 6 5 32 34 38 34 44 (S)
84 (33) 4 8 7 34 36 40 36 55 (M)
86 (34) 6 10 9 36 38 42 38 66 (L)
91 (36) 8 12 11 38 40 44 40 77 (XL)
97 (38) 10 14 13 40 42 46 42 88
(XXL)
102 (40) 12 16 15 42 44 48 44 99
(XXXL)
107(42) 14 18 17 44 46 50 46
114(45) 16 20 19 46 48 52 48
Developing apparel sizing systems for particular groups Y.-S. LEE, Chonnam National University, South Korea, A,S&D CHAPTER 8
 Body type comparison Male
ISO Drop value JIS GB KS GoB
CH-W in cm
Athletic A 16 J, JY, A Y Y Athletic A
Athletic Athletic Athletic
Regular R 12 YA, A, AB B Full Body B Stocky Normal N
Average A Average A Average
Portly P 6 B, BB, BE C Portly C Portly Slim S
Full body
Stout S 0 E Large L
Full body

Corpulent C -6 Stocky P
 Body type comparison Female
ISO Drop value JIS GB KS GoB
B-H in cm Ch-W
16 Very Large Hip
B
Full Hips 12 Large Hips C Portly A Type Large
A AB B Stocky L

Medium Hips 8 Medium Hip A Average N Type Medium
M A M

Slim Hips 0 Small Hip Y Athletic H Type Small
H Y S
 Fit -3Hrs
(Physical and Digital)
 Fit of the clothes
•  Fit of a garment is defined by the relationship between its dimensions and those of
the human body. Typically, fit assessment within the apparel product development
process occurs at the end of garment pre- production stage on a company’s fit model
in a specified size. Fit assessment also occurs during the purchase process by an
individual consumer.
•  Testing of clothing is often carried out by one or both of the following methods:
Subjective fit trials and Objective fit trials .
•  Both these trials can be conducted either in the static, quasi- static or dynamic mode
–  The static analysis is based on testing the product under any one posture
considered to be the most critical during the task, e.g. testing of skiing gloves in the
skiing position.
–  The quasi- static analysis employs a static analysis at multiple time steps of a
motion, e.g., testing the fit of pants in standing, sitting and bending position.
–  The dynamic mode of analysis includes all aspects of motion in calculating the
stresses, e.g. movement of clothing vis-á vis the body, during actions such as
running or donning and doffing of a garment, and also the restraining effect of
clothing on the actions of user.

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overview D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D Chap;ter 2

Subjective fit trials
• 
In subjective fit trials, subjects from the target population are asked to try on the
test garments. Assessment of the garment, with respect to comfort, fit and usability
of the product can be done either by the user or by fit experts.
•  Often several variants are tried by the users and a comparative rating given for the
trial garments so that the best option can be selected for the given application.
Feedback is collected on a structured questionnaire and analysed

Anthropometry and the design

and production of apparel: an
overview D. GUPTA, Indian
Institute of Technology, Delhi,
India A,S&D Chap;ter 2

Subjective assessment of
clothing fit W Yu Clothing
appearance and fit Chapter 3
Subjective assessment of clothing fit W Yu Clothing appearance and fit Chapter 3
Subjective assessment of clothing fit W Yu Clothing appearance and fit Chapter 3
 Objective trials

•  Depending on the requirement and availability of time and resources, objective fit

trials can assume several forms. For example, tests are conducted to assess the
performance of compression wear for use in medical or sports applications.
Pressure sensors are used at the body–garment interface to measure the pressure
exerted by the garment. An optimum balance between the requirement of pressure
and the comfort and tolerance of user has to be established for each application.
•  The functional performance of girdles is mainly determined by the pressure
imposed on the wearers. For product development and evaluation of girdles, it is
important to measure or predict a girdle’s pressure distribution on the wearer so as
to assess whether it is appropriate with regard to body shaping, wearing comfort
and human physiology.
•  Virtual fit -3D body scans obtained from the CAESAR survey , Australia, China etc

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overview D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D Chap;ter 2
 3D representations of the target consumer
3D representations of the target consumer used to serve the process of developing
apparel the dress form; the human fit model; the virtual fit model.
The dress form
•  Originally, dress forms were substitutes for a clients and, as the ready-to-wear
industry developed, a substitute for sizing systems.
•  They were the only means of producing garments of a particular size and fit, are still
widely used to create new designs through draping and are used to evaluate
apparel design, proportion, dimensional fit and balance, both during construction
and on completion of a garment. They are created to represent the size and shape
of a body for an individual or average set of bodies, for men, women and children,
They can be whole bodies, half-bodies, torso or just the lower half of the body, with
one or two legs. Some are product specific (e.g. bras). there were ‘standard’ dress
forms, derived from blocks .
•  They are seen as being far more reliable as, unlike a human fit model, the shape
and measurements do not change day to day, once the fit form is created.
Nevertheless, whilst these dress forms more closely resemble the size, shape and
physiological composition of people but they cannot walk, talk or give feedback on
the physical properties of apparel
•  Dress forms from Fit models and scanned data

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing

The human fit model

•  A human fit model is seen as playing a critical role in the sizing and fitting of apparel, just
as fit testing is an essential part of the product development process, where apparel
designs, production samples and graded samples are tried on and used by people,
rather than fitted on static dress forms
•  Companies without access to 3D body data usually follow a convention. For example, a
particular size code for women (8, 10 or 12), chest size in the case of men (e.g. 42 in) or
reference to age in labeling sizes for children, with supporting measurements that might
include weight, height, arm lengths, bust size and waist or hip may be used to select a fit
model
•  Companies that use sizing systems developed from traditional anthropometric studies
(in the UK: Marks and Spencer, Debenhams, Next and Arcadia) select their fit model’s
dimensions according to their base sampling size; others use the measurements of the
fit model as the basis for their sizing systems
•  In addition to comparing existing fit model, size and shape to updated 3D data and
selecting new fit models that are more representative of a target market, live fit models
are being scanned to explore opportunities for combining the visual and physical
assessment of garments, with the more objective techniques of visual scanning

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing

Virtual fit model

•  3D whole-body scanners are increasingly being used by industry
and researchers as a new fit testing tool
•  In traditional fit sessions it is only possible to look at the garment
from outside; now, the space between the body and clothing
can be visualized and measured using volume, surface area,
circumference and slicing area techniques
•  Whilst these advances in the use of technology for fit testing go a
long way towards improving the fit analysis process and offer an
opportunity to improve fit for a greater number of people in a
market segment, there are deficiencies. These are seen as the
inability to assess some visual, tactile and physical aspects of
fit, in particular, the assessment of ease and comfort by the
human fit model

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing
 Fit Judgment frame work

A well-fitting garment hangs smoothly and evenly on the body with straight seams, no fabric
distortion nor pulling, and no gaping). Hems are parallel to the floor unless otherwise
intended, and the garment armscyes and crotch do not constrain the body (Rasband, 1994)

Materials and sizing D.H. BRANSON AND J. NAM Oklahoma State University, USA Sizing in clothing Chapter 9
 Digital Virtual fitting
•  Working with live models for fitting is known as one of the most tedious processes
in clothing design. With the development of virtual simulation technology, it is
possible to simulate garments, designs, and human models called avatars. By
using this design simulation software, designers can create accurate samples called
prototypes and consequently cut costs and save time.
•  3D body scanning technology can provide the means to automatically create
custom- fitted patterns. Several applications of body scanning technology are
already commercially available, for example virtual try- on, virtual fit, and Virtual
Reality, including virtual fabric drape and movement that simulates fabric worn
on the body
•  3D body scans obtained from the CAESAR survey, into five clusters representing
small, medium, large, extra large and extra extra large sizes in clothing. These
clusters were subsequently used to create a database of virtual mannequins
corresponding closely to real human body shapes. Such a database of virtual
mannequins can be used by customers to conduct realistic fit trials, during
electronic purchases of clothing
•  Requirements- Virtual Human body/ avatar(Scanning), Virtual Fabric( KES-F/ FAST),
Virtual Pattern(CAD) . Process -Create a Virtual Garment which will be fitted on
virtual body

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overview D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D Chap;ter 2
Computer design and digital fi t of clothing Y. A. LEE, Iowa State University, USA AS&D CHAPTER 11

 Digital Virtual fitting
•  Various levels
•  2D Patterns from 3D Scan-By creating virtual samples before physical samples
(prototypes),designs can be modified more easily and sample approval time can be
significantly reduced
–  Product-specific 2D block patterns can be created on a 3D scan with options to
vary silhouettes and degrees of fit and ease Practitioners are able to assess the
size, shape and fit of a base pattern and to customize lengths and shape at an
early stage of style development. The automatically generated pattern can be
imported to any pattern design system, where more complex styling and
construction features can be added TC2
–  2D styled patterns can be fitted (wrapped) around a 3D scan, the fabric
simulated, the style fit tested and the pattern altered before a physical garment
is cut and sewn (Optitex, Lectra Browzwear, Bodymetrics TC2 and PAD
Systems).

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing
Computer design and digital fi t of clothing Y. A. LEE, Iowa State University, USA AS&D CHAPTER 11
 Digital Virtual fitting
•  3D scan- 2D pattern
–  3D scans generated from fit models can be made symmetrical and used to
create 3D designs directly onto the virtual 3D fit model. Fabric properties can be
selected from integral database and 2D patterns are unwrapped from the 3D
design. The fit and ease can be adjusted to reflect the mechanical properties of
the fabric, and also the way in which those properties are used in the design,
the size and the shape of the virtual model (Heyd, 2004; Krzywinski et al.,2005)
–  Kung (2005), offers a 3D-to-2D computer aided- design solution to directly
create virtual garments. The software provides a means to control and
experiment with the fit of a garment in 3D space while simultaneously
generating a corresponding 2D pattern. The fit of the garment follows the
human body, and not data files or size charts; the actual body, the virtual body
and the pattern are directly aligned

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing
 Digital Virtual fitting
•  Virtual garment prototyping 3D Scan to 3D prototyping –OptiTex provides an
adjustable, 3D fit model from body scan data Various apparel uses this software for 3D
virtual prototyping in the product development process
•  Physical garment to 3D virtual fit This system uses digital representation of a physical
garment. Digital images, captured by video, can transport highly detailed images of a live
model wearing a garment. The software creates rotating 3D images that can be posted
to a website, viewed in a simulated 3D manner, manipulated and magnified and can
immediately be appraised by buyers
•  Virtual fit from 3D scans is the most advanced form of virtual try- on. Body scans can be
used to evaluate the style and fit of clothing on the basis of size specifications, structural
design details, and fabric parameters
–  Online shopping -Online fitting room technology aims to help online retailers
reduce returns and increase sales. Three- dimensional software helps estimate
how a garment fits a consumer when shopping online. By replacing a generic
avatar with a customized consumer avatar, consumers can try a garment on
their own body before they commit to buying it online

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing
Computer design and digital fi t of clothing Y. A. LEE, Iowa State University, USA AS&D CHAPTER 11
 –  In-store Size predictions 3D scanners are being located in retail environments to
give instant shape, size and fit evaluations for ready-to-wear ranges of jeans
(Biometrics , Size stream)
–  Fit to size / customization- 3D garment design makes it possible to adjust garments
to fit potential customers who might not conform to the target group’s normal size
and shape. By choosing from the database of virtual bodies, standardized sizes can
be easily modified to accommodate an individual’s size requirements

–  Video Magic Mirror

https://youtu.be/4s9dpUmHmz0

–  Amazon virtual Dressing room

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3ghb6atM2o

–  Amazon Virtual changing room
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_5X8Iw1nxM

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing
Computer design and digital fi t of clothing Y. A. LEE, Iowa State University, USA AS&D CHAPTER 11
 Advantage / Disadvantage of Virtual fitting
ADVANTAGE
Virtual fitting help to reduce the following.
•  The costs associated with garment manufacture.
•  The number of physical fit sessions needed (estimated by one company as a reduction
by 50%).
•  The number of samples that need to be shipped for fitting.
•  Provides ability to create designs more quickly, the reduction in the time for garment
approval, the improvement in the collaboration between departments (responsible for
design, manufacture and merchandising)
•  Provides the creation of opportunities for companies in the supply chain (perhaps
separated by continents) to participate in global fit sessions.
DISADVANTAGE
•  The availability of the virtual fit model brings a considerable advance to both the process
and the accuracy of fit testing. They do not, however, offer all the benefits of using a live
fit model; there are some visual, tactile and physical aspects of fit that cannot, as yet,
be adequately evaluated in a virtual environment.

Sizing systems, fi t models and target markets J. BOUGOURD University of the Arts London, UK Chapter 4 Sizing in clothing

Future of Digital/ Virtual fitting

Realistic 3D visualisation of bodies as well as clothing in digital form can be used to
provide a better fit of garments for a larger section of the population.
Testing can be carried out on a wide range of human body scans without the need to
produce even a single physical prototype of the test garment or having a single human
model available for testing, thus leading to large savings in cost, time as well as the
dependence on human subjects.
The next step will be to carry out dynamic fit analyses using human models. This would
require capturing of motion data and integrating it with movement and flow of
garments

Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overview D. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D Chap;ter 2
 Fit and allowance for comfort and wearablilty
•  A key criterion of wearability be defined as the ability to move in the clothing without
effort, or clothing must take account of the activities of the human body, and not
interfere with movements such as walking, sitting, standing, bending, stretching. In
addition it must also permit the body to perform normal physiological activity: this
means the blood must circulate, the body must sweat and breathe.

•  This freedom of motion of a clothed person is dependent on both the fabric used and
the construction of the clothing. Clothing must able to stretch to the same degree as
skin; if clothing is not in direct contact with the skin it must allow greater extension

•  Data drawn from static anthropometry differ considerably from those drawn from
dynamic anthropometry, with the latter being of significantly greater interest. Several
researchers have investigated the influence of the individual movements of the body to
change the body dimensions; measure and assess mobility restriction by clothing to
determine where maximum stresses occur in clothing, the locations of the stresses in
wear, and the stances that cause these stresses, dynamic stress distribution on clothing
during the performance of extreme postures like jumping, climbing, ducking, reaching
and bending. Clothing should be designed to be able to adapt to this type of change.

Wearing comfort using body motion analysis J. GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Slovenia , A,S&D Chapter 12
Anthropometry and the design and production of apparel: an overviewD. GUPTA, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India A,S&D chapter 2
 Dynamic Anthropometric data

10-22%
21%
31%

Changes in body dimensions during

walking or running,
bending the body
stretching the arms forward and
Wearing comfort using body motion analysis J. GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Slovenia , A,S&D Chapter 12
•  Fabric used for clothing must be able to cope with the difference between the
changing dimensions of the surface of the body and the dimensions of the clothing
as a shell. This can be achieved through appropriate ease allowances, allowing
clothing to slide over the surface of the body when dimensional changes occur
•  There are two main types of ease allowance, with distinct functions: one aims to
achieve improved comfort and wearability, while the other is added by the designer
to create a particular style.
–  Ease Allowance for comfort and wearability It is employed to enable the
wearer to move, bend, breathe, sit, raise the arms and walk without the
clothing being over pulled, pinched, bent, stretched, or strained beyond a
natural relaxed position
–  Ease Allowance for Design It is based on aesthetic considerations and
personal preferences of the designer, and represents ease allowance added
by creating different styles or look according to fashion trends and personal
preference.

Wearing comfort using body motion analysis J. GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Slovenia , A,S&D Chapter 12

Ease Allowance for comfort and wearability

•  Standard ease allowance- based on the standard human body shape for a standing
or sitting posture, is the difference between the maximal and minimal perimeter of
the wearer’s body
•  Dynamic ease allowance; Dynamic ease allowance, sometimes referred to as kinetic
comfort, is defined as the ability to allow wearers to move (extreme movements
and postures).
•  Mechanical ease, called also fabric ease allowance refers to the mechanical comfort
for wear, takes into account the influence of the mechanical properties of the
fabrics used in the clothing.
•  Ergonomic ease allowance- that will allow unhindered movement and work.
Clothing should be ergonomically designed, in accordance with the dynamic
anthropometric conditions of use and functionality, while still allowing wearing
comfort and a high degree of free movement, as well as uninterrupted and safe
work activities. All possible conditions of use must be taken into account, for
example carrying tools, devices, sensor etc..

Wearing comfort using body motion analysis J. GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Slovenia , A,S&D Chapter 12
Burgo (1998) studied the impact of different elements on ease
allowance, and concluded that the required ease allowance could be
determined on the basis of three variable factors:
1.  Style of the clothing
–  Classic – a modern practical style,
–  Fitted – a style that hugs the body,
–  Loose fitting – a style that requires more ease allowance
and can be fitted with gathers, pleats or flaring;
2.  Position of clothing with respect to proximity to the surface of
the body
–  zero degree – clothing worn directly in contact with the
skin, such as underwear and bathers;
–  first degree – clothing worn directly on top of the
underwear;
–  second degree – clothing worn on top of the fi rst degree of
clothing;
–  third degree – very heavy weight clothing; and
–  fourth degree – clothing with lining, such as fur or quilting.
Wearing comfort using body motion analysis
3.  Thickness of the material (with thicker materials, the fabric in the
J. GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Slovenia ,
seam allowance occupies space and reduces ease allowance). A,S&D Chapter 12
Materials and sizing D.H. BRANSON AND J.
4.  Fabric characteristics NAM Oklahoma State University, USA Sizing
un clothing Chapter 9
 Position of clothing

Wearing comfort using body motion analysis J. GERŠAK, University of Maribor, Slovenia , A,S&D Chapter 12
 Thickness of a fabric
The thickness of a fabric or fabric system is an important factor that affects garment ease
and pattern dimensions. Thick materials are frequently used for a special purpose such as
for thermal insulation or for impact protection.
Achieving a well-fitting garment with thick fabrics requires a thorough consideration of the
purpose of the designated garment system and the relevant mechanism(s) necessary to
achieve the garment system goal.
For example, a cooling vest constructed of two layers of fabric with tubing carrying chilled
water sandwiched between the fabric layers is designed to achieve microclimate cooling by
conduction. Since conduction relies on physical contact between the skin and the fabric
surface, the garment pattern should be developed to maximize physical contact between
the wearer’s skin and the inner surface of the garment system. pattern would have a
minimum amount of ease.
Conversely, a down jacket for winter sports achieves thermal insulation by using a thick and
bulky fabrication that traps air within the fabric system. The garment pattern should be
large enough to maintain the fabric system thickness when the wearer moves in order to
preserve the thermal barrier and yet not so large that the warm air created inside of the
garment system is exchanged with outside air. Thus, fabric thickness and garment system
purpose must be taken into consideration for determining appropriate ease and pattern
dimensions to create a well-fi tting garment.
Materials and sizing D.H. BRANSON AND J. NAM Oklahoma State University, USA Sizing un clothing Chapter 9
 Non-stretch materials
Materials with a minimal amount of stretch such as conventional woven fabrics have been
the focus for standard wearing ease recommendations given in pattern-making textbooks.
Because these materials have minimal stretch, additional fabric or wearing ease must be
allocated in the pattern-making process for movement with such fabrics through
•  Grain line the pattern pieces can be oriented on the bias rather than on the lengthwise
or crosswise grain lines since the bias grain line affords stretch.
•  Design features can be incorporated into the garment design to allow for greater
movement. An example would be an underarm gusset, bi-swing back
•  Fabric content/construction - using fiber with stretch (such as blend-ing Lycra® in the
yarn) or yarn forming ( high twist yarn) and weaving techniques (such as the use of a
twill weave) can introduce more elastic properties to the fabric.
Challenge
Special-purpose non-stretch fabrics, particularly in the protective materials field, that pose
additional challenges for fitting. These fabrics typically are stiff, have no stretch or very
little stretch regardless of grain-line placement. Therefore, reliance on achieving wearing
ease and good fit is dependent on More wearing ease / use of design features.

Materials and sizing D.H. BRANSON AND J. NAM Oklahoma State University, USA Sizing un clothing Chapter 9

Stretch materials

•  Stretch fabric can be achieved by the use of yarns to form a knit fabric (rib knits and
jersey knits) or other ‘stretch’ fabrication method- use of an elastomeric yarn
(fabrics made from rubber, latex and filament synthetic fibers such as nylon and
spandex ).
•  End uses including undergarments, swimwear, active sportswear, casual clothing,
tailored clothing and evening wear.
•  Stretch fabrics have three desirable performance functions, namely comfort,
performance enhancement and fit
•  Type of stretch property - form fit, action fit and power fit. Form fit exerts no
pressure on the body; action fit holds and supports the body; power fit molds the
body into the desired shape
•  Patterns designed for stretch fabrics will generally be smaller than a pattern created
for an identical style and size in a woven fabric, and commonly have ‘negative ease’,
i.e. they are made smaller than the body measurements by a percentage to achieve
a well-fitting garment
•  Trail –n –error is prevalent approach

Materials and sizing D.H. BRANSON AND J. NAM Oklahoma State University, USA Sizing in clothing Chapter 9