DANISH -INSPIRED

Rocker and Straight Chair

PHIL McCAFFERTY
Crafting this high-backed, Danish-inspired rocker and the matching low-backed occasional chair
requires a considerable amount of time, but the result is a pair of exquisitely-shaped chairs
that make a stunning addition to any modern home . The design of the chairs is such, as can be
noted in the plans, that either chair can be built individually, and y ou can use either back height
on either chair.
The best tool for cutting the various parts of the chairs is a band saw, but a husky saber
saw will suffice if you are experienced in its use. A saber saw fitted in a table would be easiest
to use, as it more closely duplicates the action of a band saw.
Cushion construction is straightforward; foam-rubber cushions 3 in. thick are covered with
the fabric of your choice . If your wife is handy with the sewing machine she can be making the
covers for the cushions while you are building the chairs. Some upholstery fabrics are heavier
than some home sewing machines can handle, and you may want an upholstery shop to make the
cushion covers for y ou.
The sides and arms of the chairs are designed to be made from 1-5/16 or 13/s-in. walnut or
other hardwood. Material of this thickness may not be available in your locality, but can be
ordered from several companies who adv ertise in WORKBENCH, these concerns specializing in
selling hardwoods and supplies to home c raftsmen. About 15 lineal feet of the thick lumber
will be required for the straight chair, about 22 ft. for the rocker. In addition to the thick stock ,
you will need 3/4-in . material for the top strips , for laminating the front and rear rails, (laminated
to a chieve t hickness a nd strength) , and for the reinforcing gussets that go in the corners of the
seat fram e. A small a mount of lJz -in . w alnut is required for the short seat boards. The back
slats require %-in . walnut. Comfortable seating is assured w ith rubber-fabric belting. You w ill ne e d
about 12 ft. of this material, called " Dunlap Rubber Webbing " , for each chair. Most upholstery
shops carry this material or can order it for you if they do not stock it. E a ch chair also will
require 16 Dunlap webbing clips. These clips clamp onto the ends of the webbing and are
screwed to the cha ir frame. The webbing strips are cut about 11Jz in. short, then are installed
under tension to keep them taut under the cushion .

18 c November-December 1965, W0 RK B EN CH
 Start construction by making pat-
terns from the squared drawings.
You can trace the shapes on the
wood, or cut duplicate patterns and
cement them directly to the wood
with a thin coat of contact adhesive,
Fig. 1. Saw out the individual
pieces, taking particular care to
keep the joint surfaces square. Note
that the arms and front and rear
FRONT RAIL, 1 FOR EACH CHAIR, LAMINATED FROM %" STOCK rails are profiled in two directions,
drawing and Fig. 1.
Start assembly of the rocker by
doweling the front legs and vertical
rails to the side rails. Dowel the
front end of the rocker to the front
leg. Note that the rear end of the
rocker cannot be doweled until after
the joint has been glued, Figs. 2
and 3. Assembly for the straight
chair is the same, except for the
rockers. The next step is to glue
and dowel the front and rear rails

TOP STRIP,
1 FOR EACH CHAIR

ROCKER !
CU SHION -1 --+-.f'IIJiil'------+
21" X 22" I
I

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2" SQS. I
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1"
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BOITOM ~~ SIDE~EW
TRIM STOCK

W 0 RK B EN CH November-December 1965, « 19
1. Fastest method is to glue duplicate
patterns directly to stock. Band saw is
best, but husky saber saw will do.

to one assembled side . After the

glue is dry, glue and dowel the
other side assembly to the rails. Do
not attempt to assemble both side
sub-assemblies to the front and rear
rails at the same time.
You will probably find it easiest
to rough-shape the rounded con-
tours of the parts prior to gluing
together with the front and rear
rails, but this is a matter of choice.
I found it handy to remove a ma-
jority of the stock with a rotary
rasp, Fig. 4. Rough-shape the arms
and glue and dowel in place. Note
that the joint at the rear is not
doweled. Glue and dowel the top

2. Glue up each side of each chair as a complete unit before gluing in the front 3. After glue joint at the rear end of the
and rear rails. You will need bar clamps, or clamp fixtures for pipe to hold the rocker has been glued, reinforce it by
assembly after it is glued. Note angle block under clamp. drilling and inserting dowel.

strips in place . Trim the ends that

were left long, as indicated in the
drawing. All shaping except for the
final sanding of the chairs should
be done before installing the corner
gussets, Fig . 5.
Shaping of the flowing contours
goes quickly with a quality half-
round cabinetmaker's rasp fitted
with a good handle. Smooth rough
spots with a scraper and a coarse
half-round file . Follow this with
sanding , using coarse, medium and
fine grades of paper. Finish with
4/ 0 steel wool. Pre-sand the back
slats and short seat boards and in-
stall them, Figs . 6 and 7.
The rubber webbing is cut about

4. Rotary rasp is quickest way to rough-

shape components of chair. Follow with
files, ·sandpaper, finally steel wool.

20 • November· December 1965, W 0 RKB EN CH

5. Four gussets are required for each
chair, fitting in corners to strengthen
them. They are glued and screwed.

llfz in. shorter than required and

stretched into place to assure taut-
ness. The webbing clips first are
squeezed onto the ends of the web-
bing by using a vise. Countersink a
screw hole in the punched slot in
the center of each clip and fasten
one end of each strap to the chair
frame w ith a No. 8 x% in. flathead
wood screw. Predrill the holes in
the opposite end of the seat and
stretch the strip into place, using
a punch or nailset in the hole .
Clamp the clip to the rail, remove
the punch and fasten with a screw,
Fig. 8.
Finish the chair, or chairs, with change them on the paper and
one of the several good Danish-oil avoid wasting expensive hardwood.
products now available . If your Remember that the arms are made
local paint dealers do not have it, as pairs; there must be a left and
several of our advertisers carry it a right. The back slats are either
and will sell it mail order. You may 20% in. or 24% in ., depending on
wish to remove the seat webbing whether they are for the long or
before applying the finish . If you short back. If the rear rail with its
do, number the strips so they can angled slots presents a problem,
be replaced in the same position simply rip the strip at the correct
and will not require refitting. angle and ignore the slots. You then
There are several tips that will can fit angled blocks, cut from a
help in enlarging the squared draw- strip ripped to shape, between the
ings. After locating the various spaced slots. Glue and screw the
points in the squares you can join blocks to the rail.
the points w ith a smooth graceful For those craftsmen who prefer
line by using a strip of thin wood to work with full-size drawings we
or sheet metal to guide your pencil. have available a full-size blueprint
Double-check the sizes and shapes of the chairs. Price of the print is
of your patterns by placing the full- $4 . Send check or money order to
size patterns on the floor and WORKBENCH, Danish Chairs, 6. Rabbeted short seat boards are fas-
matching them up . If you find in- Dept. 1069, 543 Westport Road, Kan- tened to the front rail. Rabbets ·are to
correct angles or dimensions, sas City, Mo . 64111. 6. 6. accept clips that hold rubber webbing.

7. Top ends of back slats are glued in dado on underside of 8. Punch and clamps are used to stretch elastic webbing
top rail, lower ends fit into notches cut in lower rear rail. into place. Webbing is cut short so it will be "pretensioned."

W 0 R K B EN C H November·December 1965, • 21