Shampoos

CLAUDE BOUILLON

T
he term “shampoo” comes from the Hindi CL@?, sumers to meet their diverse needs and circum-
to press or knead. By extension it has come to stances-which, on an individual level, change over
mean the action of washing the hair and scalp. time and favor frequent product switching, experiment-
Shampoos today are the mainstay of the hair-care ing, and the search for original performance.
and cleansing market. They represent 50% of the total
units sold in the hair products sector, which demon- Cleansing the Hair, or Detergency
strates their considerable importance in terms of the The substrate to be cleansed amounts to a large
market and of social and individual habits. surface area-100,000 to 150,000 individual hairs-
Shampooing is undeniably the most common hair which adds up to 4 to 8 sq m for an average female head
treatment. But what is expected of a shampoo? It may of hair, representing 50 to 100 times the surface area of
seem obvious to say that shampoos are products aimed the scalp underneath. Cleansing is no small endeavor:
at cleansing the hair and scalp. This is, however, too think of the mass of water employed in rinsing to real-
narrow a definition if one considers the diversity of ize what a huge task is performed by a dose of sham-
qualities demanded of a good shampoo. If the prime poo.
function is indeed to fulfill an elementary hygienic The substrate to be cleansed is a hard hydropho-
need, the expectations of today’s consumer go far be- bic protein that would not easily retain dust were it not
yond this commonplace function, which even tends to for the presence of sebum, which is the sticking point.
be disregarded. First of all, a cosmetic benefit is ex- Secreted by the sebaceous appendage and flowing into
pected-that is, restoration of the hair’s appearance, the hair follicle, sebum is a natural lubricating oil. It
which must be not only clean but also beautiful: glossy, contributes to luster but has one major drawback: it
soft, airy, “free” without “flyaway,” easy to comb and entraps and glues all that comes near it-environmental
dress, with body, bounce, and volume. The consumer’s dust, pollutants, smoke, grease, keratinous debris off
expectations are numerous regardless of hair type and the scalp, organic or inorganic compounds carried by
condition. But the formulator has to take into account sweat, or cosmetics, such as hair sprays, styling aids,
all the possible variations associated with hair (dry, and tonics. What is more, the sebum’s chemical com-
greasy, limp, bleached, permed, dyed, short or long, position evolves over time as a result of incubation and
crisp, relaxed, Caucasian, Negroid, Oriental); specific microbial enzymatic activity, leading to partial transfor-
problems relating to the physiologic and superficial mation of entrapped material.
condition of the scalp, such as dandruff and seborrhea; The soil varies a great deal from one individual to
and season, age, lifestyle, care habits (frequency of another. The mixture depends on hairdressing habits,
shampooing, use of a conditioner), new hairstyle tech- lifestyle, nutrition, environmental and systemic factors,
niques and dressings, and the whims of consumers. and scalp and hair shaft condition. Moreover, cleansing
In addition to these different states of hair, indi- may be hindered by the condition of the substrate-an
vidual preferences for a certain texture, fragrance, uneven hair cuticle, a porous fiber, or a scalp with vary-
foaming, and use characteristics come into play, as do ing degrees of scaling. Whatever the soil and the con-
the ease of rinsing and wet combing, the rapidity of ditions, the main point is to get the grease, in which soil
drying, and so forth. is trapped, free from the hair. Detergency consists of
The huge amount of variables to be covered, some of weakening the physicochemical adhesive force that
them contradictory and hard to reconcile, makes ad- binds it to hair, taking it up and transferring it into
equate product formulation a difficult task and entails aqueous rinses, and dispersing it while avoiding rede-
continuous investment in research, as is reflected by the position on the fiber. This physicochemically complex
large number of patents appearing in this field. operation entails a number of interactions-water/air,
A vast range of products must be available to con- lipids/water, solids (including hair)/water-is carried
out by surfactant (Fig 1).

From the Department of Research and Development, L’Oreal, Clichy Surfactants Used in Shampoos
Cedex, France.
Address correspondence to Mr. Claude Bouillon, Associate Director,
Surfactants are compounds that have a dual affinity.
Research and Development, L’Oreal, Gorue General Roguet, 92583 Clichy They are both lipophilic and hydrophilic. They are li-
Cedex, France. pophilic by their hydrocarbon (mostly 12-14 carbon)

0 1996 by Elsevier Science Inc. 0738-081 X/96/$32.00

Arrangement of surfactaats in water (Micellization) ment of vegetable or animal fats or oils. Soaps ha\‘e twa
main drawbacks: first, they tend to hydrolyze in water,
releasing alkali that is detrimental to both skin and hair
MICELLIZATtON shaft; second, in hard water they precipitate into u-,
cium salts that attach to the hair, leading to a dullmap-
pearance, brittle feel, and poor disentangling ability.
This is why soaps are virtually no longer used and have
been replaced by synthetic surfactants; these come
pounds have a much stronger polarity and are thus free
from the shortcomings inherent in soaps.
The anionic surf&ants best known and most corn--
manly used are the alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sul-
fates, respectively derived from the sulfation of fatty
alcohuls and polyoxyethylene analogs. They 81-eavail-
able as sodium, ammonium, monoethanolamine, or tri-
Mechanism of deterging/cleonsing ethanolamine salts (Fig 3). They exhibit remarkable
cleaning and foaming properties. Highly water soluble,
DETERGENCY they enable the formulation of cIear shampoos. They
have relatively poor cosmetic properties, which can be
enhanced or compensated for by appropriate softening
additives.
A large variety of other types of anionics may also be
used, such as olefin sulfonates and paraffin sulfortates
or more expensive, rinore sophisticated, fine surfactants
whose foaming arid rleaning properties are a little less
Figure 2. efficient but which 8re milder and more suitable for
-sensitive hair and scalp: alkyl sulfosuccinates, ,zlkyf.
fatty chain, which links to greasy soil. They are hydro- ether carboxylates, alkyl isethionates, alkyl sarcosi-
philic by the polar head group at the end of the fatty nates, acyl methyltaurates, and acyl peptides (Fig 31
chain, whichrenders them water soluble and helps dis- Combinations are used according to the qualities and
perse and rinse away greasy soil. cosmetic effect sought, their compatibilit’y with the
By their very structure, surfactants alter the surface other additives, and- their price.
properties of aqueous solutions, depending on their’-
w@ting, detergent, foaming, dispersing, and emulsify-
ing properties. The polar head of cationics has a positive charge <Fig 3).
Surfactants are divided into four main categories ac- Cationics show high-affinity for hair fiber, to wliich they
cording to~their polar head type: anionics, c&onics, a% impart softness and ease of combing while reducing
photerics, and nonionics (Fig 2). flyaway. The cosmetic characteristics of cationic surfac-
tants and their beneficial effect on hair surface cotidi-
Anionics tion make them appropriate for the care of aamaged
The hydrophilic polar head. of anionics is negatively hair.
charged. The first anionic detprgent used was soap, Cationics are, however, poor cleansing arid lathering
which is a salt of a fatty acid obtained by alkali treat: surfactants, and they may give rise to some.redepoG-
tion of soil onto the hair shaft. A lack of compatibility
Figure 2. with anionic surfactants further limits their potential in
shampoo formulations.
Cationics are combined with nonionic surfactants toy
specific Shampoos designed for dyed, bleached, or very
dry hair. Their use is widespread in conditioners, of
which they are the basic components.

Amphoterics
Amphoterics bear both an anionic and a cationic group:
They behave as cationics at Lower- pH values .-and as
anionics at higher ..pH v3lues. Therefoye, -they exhibit
properties between those of- anionics and cationin.
Clinics in Dermatology l 1996;14:113-121 SHAMPOOS 115

R-COOH R-COO-M+
fatty acid soap
R-OH R-O-SOS-M+
fatty alcohol alkyl sulfate (e.g. lauryl (or dodecyll sulfate)
R-O-(-CH2-CH2-0j”H R-O+CH2-CH2-O-t, S&-M*
polyoxyethyfene fatty alcohol alkyfether sulfate
n=2to5 R-OCO-CH-SO3-M’
&Hz-COO-M’
allcyl sulfosuccfnate
R = hydrocarbon chain (2 10 carbon atoms) R-COO-CH2-CH2-SO;M+
so-calledfatty chain alkyl tsethtonate
116= sodium. ammonfurn or alcanolamtne R-SOS-M’
a-olefine sulfonate

R-CO-y-CH2-COO-M’
CHa
acyl sarcosinate
R-(OCH&H1),-O-CH&OO-M
alkylether carboxylates

R-CO-rJ-CHFCH&O,-M+
CH
3
acyl methyl taurates

R-CO-NH-tFH-CO-NH-YH-jmCOO-M+
% Rx
acylpeptides
Figure 3.

Amphoterics complex with anion&, reducing the combination with alkyl ether sulfates or amphoterics in
latter’s tendency to adsorb onto proteins. Having mod- the development of very mild shampoos.
erate foaming and cleaning properties, amphoterics are The most commonly used nonionics are polyoxyeth-
generally combined with other surfactants in the for- ylene fatty alcohols and polyglycerolated fatty alcohols,
mulation of mild shampoos to modulate cleaning effi- polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters (eg, Tweens), and alkyl
ciency, enhance lathering qualities, and value polymer polyglucosides (ie, sugar derivatives with grafted fatty
contribution to hair condition. chains) (Fig 6).
The most often used amphoterics are betaines, sulfo-
betaines, imidazolinium derivatives (eg, Miranol C2M), Natural Surfactants
and alkylaminoacids (eg, Deriphats) (Fig. 5).
Natural surfactants consist mainly of saponins, which
Nonionics are found in various plant species-for example, soap
bark, soapwort, sarsaparilla, and ivy.
In contrast to the above mentioned surfactants, nonion- The hydrophilic component is a sugar, which makes
its have no polar head and no electric charge and are them similar to nonionics, but their lipophilic moiety,
therefore compatible with all other categories of surfac- either a steroid or a triterpene, often bears an acidic or
tant. They are generally considered the mildest of all basic group. Such is the case with soap bark, whose
surfactants. They have good dispersing, emulsifying, lipophilic moiety is quillaic acid.
and detergent properties, but their use has been re- These saponins make a very good lather but have
stricted because of poor foaming capacity. They serve less than average cleansing properties. High concentra-
more as auxiliary cleaning agents. Their high level of tions are therefore needed to yield sufficient deter-
tolerance by the skin has found application in their gency. At these concentrations, saponins are somewhat
116 BOUILLON

RI ex. alkyl trimethylammonium

R,
R-COO CH,-CH,-+y - R, x- ester “quat”

R2

Figure 4.

harsh and may even exhibit unfavorable cosmetic char- compatibility, dosage, and equilibrium have to be
acteristics. solved-to cleanse without causing dryness, to lubri-
As a consequence, natural surfactants are generally cate dry hair while cleansing, to ensure that beauty
combined with or supplemented by synthetic surfac- treatment or other specific treatment also cleans the
tants to ensure good cleansing and satisfactory cosmetic hair, and to achieve the delicate sequential removal of
qualities. soil and its replacement by conditioner. This also
means, inevitably, that if it is to beautify, cleanse, or
Formulating a Shampoo specifically treat the hair, even the simplest shampoo
formulation has to be composed of a variety of ingre-
Developing a cleansing system that is not selective, not
dients.
too detersive, and well suited to scalp and hair while
favoring or at least not negatively affecting the cosmetic
Basic Shampoo Fovmulatio~l
benefits sought is a delicate challenge requiring com-
promise. A shampoo comprises a mixture of several surfactants,
The variability of the substrate and the duality of the as a single surfactant can seldom adequately ensure all
aim need to be addressed. Thus, many problems of the aspects of the process and prerequisites of the task

Figure 5.

CH3

R - CO-Nl-i-(CH2)3-‘N-CH2-CO0 betaine
- I
fatty amid (-3

CH3
I
R - CO-NH-(CH&-‘N-(CH&SO3
I
CH3

CH2-CH20H

alkyl bnldamllnium

I
CH2-COO-
+
R-SJH-CHz-CHz-COO- N-akyl amfnoadd
H
 SHAMPOOS 117

R-X+CH2-CH2-O+,H polyoxyethylene derivatives

R-X+CHz-CHOH-CH20+“H
polyglycerol derivatives
R-X+CH2-CH-0 j”H
I
CHIOH

R-CO-NH-CH2-CHzOH fatty ethanolamide

R-0-(-C,H,,OJn-H dkyl polyglucosides

assigned; cosmetic (conditioning) additives; special care polymeric chain or components of the bone (Fig 7).
ingredient(s); foam stabilizer(s) or softener(s) or both; These polymers leave a continuous smoothing film on
texture and pH modulator(s); opacifier(s) or pearles- hair. They supplement the cleansing effect of shampoos
cent(s); chelating agent(s); preservative(s); and per- with a softening effect that leaves the hair shiny and
fume and colorant(s). easily managed. In addition, they effectively protect
CONDITIONINGADDITIVES These are intended to impart fragile or damaged hair from external harm. A number
softness and gloss, to reduce flyaway, and to enhance of cationic polymers are available and enter into the
disentangling facility. They are particularly useful in composition of modern shampoos: derivatives of cellu-
shampoos for dry and damaged hair. Their role in a lose, starch, guar gum, chitin, silicones, polyamines,
shampoo is not as effective as that of a separate condi- and various synthetic copolymers.
tioner or a rinse, because of the many functions a sham- Anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric polymers are also
poo has to fulfill, the likelihood of incompatibility, or used to contribute consistency, bounce, and body to
even conflicts resulting in a compromise. They do, how- hair.
ever, have a major effect on the feel, appearance, man- Silicones offer a vast source of multiform materials
ageability, and esthetic and cosmetic qualities of hair that are being increasingly used by cosmeticians to pro-
after shampooing. vide specific benefits to hair condition and care. Be-
A great number of ingredients may be introduced, cause of their low surface energy, silicones, though of-
depending on the type of cleansing base and formula- ten high in viscosity, are characterized by a lubricant,
tion and the objectives. They are mostly fatty ingredi- nonwaxy feel. They have high spreading coefficients
ents-fatty alcohols, lanolin derivatives, vegetable or and readily spread over the surface of hair, including
mineral oils or waxes, lecithins, essential fatty acid and the distal ends, forming a thin, uniform, hydrophobic
derivatives, hydrolyzed proteins (keratin, collagen, silk, film that increases luster and gloss. The lubricant nature
wheat, soya), and quaternized (cationic) derivatives, of the film reduces interfiber friction, resulting in
silicones, and cationic polymers. Antioxidants, sun
screens, vitamins, and panthenol are also used. Figure 7.
Special mention should be made here of cationic
polymers and silicones, both of which have brought
about a breakthrough in the approach to conditioning
hair. As explained above, cationic surfactants are the
preferred agents for smoothing and softening the hair
shaft, for reducing friction when combing hair, and for
neutralizing static electricity. But they are not compat-
ible with anionic surfactants, which are the major
cleansing agents used in shampoos.
Cationic polymers differ from cationic surfactants in
that the substantive cationic ends are not attached to a
fatty (hydrocarbon) chain but are part of a macromo-
lecular structure either grafted onto the bone of the
need for combing force and less damage during groom- PRESERVATIVES These are intended to inhibit bacteria
ing. Each hair becomes lighter, freer, and more elastic. logic contamination on storage and until the end of use.
Silicones are adaptable polymers: their polysiloxane FRAGRANCES AND COLORANTS These give each shain-
backbone (Fig 8) may be varied by modification of the poo an individual identity and add to its attractivenesb.
molecular weight or attachment of a myriad of different
functional groups to yield anything from a fluid to a SPECIAL CAKE INGREDIENTS These are aimed at modi+-
very viscous oil or wax, to confer various properties, ing unesthetic events, such as dandruff or greasy hair.
and to meet the various needs of different hair types. and are most often based on pyridinethione salts, piroc-
tone olamine, sulfur-containing compounds, tars, and
essential oils.
Other Components
FOAM STABILIZERS Foam is an attribute highly prized Main Types of Shampoo
by consumers. Psychologically it is associated with the
cleaning effect, but it is also an indicator that the cleans- Shampoos may be marketed as clear or opaque liquids,
ing job has been achieved and a significant pleasurable liquid creams, gels, mousses, or powders (dry sham-
component. poos).
Foaming properties include the onset of the lather; its Most shampoos are offered in liquid form, which
volume; its softness, texture, and stability; and its re- enables easy spreading on a wet scalp while they rap-
movai by rinsing. These properties are brought about idly generate a generous foam over the whole head ot
mostly by the addition of copra alkanolamides or some hair.
amphoterics and polymers. Cream shampoos are an enriched form of liquid
shampoos, thicker and pearlescent, intended to convey
THICKENERS Texture and richness are provided by the concept of the more intensive conditioning they are
natural gums (karaya, tragacanth), cellulose hydrocol- designed to provide. They are often packaged in jars or
Ioids (hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethy1, or carboxymethy1 tubes. Mousse shampoos are a sophisticated presenta-
celluloses), and carboxyvinylic polymers (eg, Carbo- tion of liquid shampoo as an aerosol that has the ad-
pal). Viscosity is controlled by salts such as sodium or
vantage of delivering shampoo as an unctuous mousse,
ammonium chloride and hexylene glycol.
with a very soft feeling when applied.
PEARLESCENTS OR OPACIFIERS These are added to Dry shampoos are very different. They do not con-
change the appearance of shampoos, but they also play tain surfactants and do not require the use of water.
a softening role. Long-chain fatty alcohols, sulfates, or They perform rapid cleaning to “refresh’ the look,
ethylene glycol and magnesium distearates are used lightness, and volume of hair between washings. The
primarily. action takes less time than that of a wet shampoo be-
cause it does not necessitate rinsing, drying, and styl-
CHELATING AGENTS These are intended to trap traces of ing-an important consideration for a dense head of
metal salts in order to prevent the formation of in-
hair. Dry shampoos usually are powders available in
soluble complexes or salts as well as the catalytic deg-
aerosol form and containing absorbent materials (rice or
radation of fragrance or colorants. EDTA salts are used corn starch) to take up sebum and abrasive materials to
mostly. shift soil and alkaline agents (borax, sodium carbonate).
They are removed by brushing. Of course, this is a &-
Figure 8. perficial transient cleaning, used as an interim measure
before the next “water” shampoo.
Polydimethylsiloxanes
Xt is easy to iliustrate the various physical aspects
that shampoo formulations can take. lt is less so to iden-
CH, tify the principal categories in terms of composition and
I performance, as the options vary so greatly. Neverthe-
RfSi-OhR less, an attempt to draw up a classification by objectives
LH, and cosmetic positioning is given below.

Ordinary Shampoo
This type of shampoo is commonly used by families
and is economically priced.
Cationic silicone Their goal is to obtain good lather and to cleanse the
hair well without excessive detergent action, leaving
the hair easy to comb and glossy without fluffiness, at a
R= (CH,),-NH-CH,-CH,-NH, relatively low cost. These shampoos are generally based
Clinics in Dermatology l 1996;14:113-121 SHAMPOOS' 119

on anionic surfactants such as alkyl sulfates and alkyl tency must be monitored together with the condition-
ether sulfates. Their distinctive image is usually a natu- ing effect, ensuring efficient uplift and dispersal of soil,
ral, plant, or biologic ingredient. Fragrance is impor- followed by microdeposition of suitable condition en-
tant. They have no specific features; they should be ver- hancers throughout the hair. This can be obtained by a
satile, but it is possible to adapt them for different types combination of anionics (alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether
of hair (dry or greasy) by varying the nature of the sulfates) and amphoterics (betaines and imidazolinium
surfactant mixture, the amount of surfactants, or the derivatives). Cosmetic qualities are contributed, for the
additives. Rather simple shampoos, they have to be most part, by cationic polymers or silicones.
agreeable to use with an image of mildness. A significant introduction on the market in the 190s
was the “2 in 1” shampoo, combining two operations in
Mild Shampoos one: shampoo and conditioning for all types of hair. The
In most countries, changes in hygiene habits, increased proposal was attractive to the consumer, saving time
participation in sports, and the use of various styling and money in getting hair clean and replenished and
aids have all resulted in the increasingly frequent use of easy to style in one single step. Besides their practical
shampoos. Yet whether frequent use is because of aspects, such shampoos provide protection to hair dur-
greasy hair, air pollution, sweat generated by physical ing further grooming and brushing, and some offer in-
activity, or cosmetic coating, it is important to avoid tensive conditioning with vitamin complex/compound
excessive detergency. An adequate combination of an- adjuncts. Despite their success on the market, however,
ionic and amphoteric surfactants is selected to ensure they represent a compromise: they cannot attain the
mildness to hair and scalp while the shampoo retains efficacy and benefits of a conditioner applied after
the ability to cleanse hair that may be exposed to soil. shampooing and devoted entirely to hair care; they also
Such shampoos are also carefully fine-tuned in their cannot meet the particular needs of various types of
conditioning features to contribute beauty and manage- hair. They are intended to meet nonspecific require-
ability of hair and at the same time to avoid buildup ments.
due to repeated deposits of conditioning agents that “Lighter” versions of “2 in 1” shampoos have lately
would weigh down the hair. come on the market in the form of transparent products
Baby shampoos are the ultimate development of with a lower amount of silicone or none at all for those
mild shampoos. Their prime requisite is complete tol- who feel, or fear, that it may leave the hair heavy or
erance by the tender scalp and eye mucosa of infants. A greasy. Also, “3 in 1” formulas are proposed, adding a
three-component blend of very mild anionic, ampho- third function addressing styling aid.
teric, and nonionic surfactants is used as a cleansing
base to prevent any stinging when it comes into contact Special Care Shampoos
with eye. SPECIFIC TO HAIR TYPE Shampoos for dyed or permed
Beauty Shmpoos hair are illustrative of this category. They should not
negatively affect color or perm. They are designed to
Beauty shampoos are created to provide excellent quali- bring back shine to the hair shade and spring to hair
ties in use, mild cleansing, and light and shining hair. waves or curls, as well as to provide softness, supple-
The formulation approach is close to that for the mild ness, and easy combing and untangling. Detergency
shampoos, using a mixture of amphoteric and various should be well balanced, and the surfactant system
anionic surfactants (alkyl ether sulfates, sulfosuccinates, should produce the desired quality of foam texture and
alkyl ether carboxylates) and a limited quantity of cons-
volume. For that purpose, either an anionic/amphoteric
ditioning additives to enhance hair beauty.
combination or a cationic surfactant base is used. A
Conditioning Shampoos polymer (cationic, amphoteric, mixed) specific to the
hair type is added to provide the conditioning proper-
In addition to good and pleasant foaming and.cleansing
ties.
properties, shampoos in this category should impart
marked cosmetic benefits to the hair and alleviate the SPECIFIC TO SCALP CONDITION These shampoos are
defects related to certain types of hair. To dry hair they mainly for use on the scalp affected with dandruff or
should give softness, easier grooming, and luster. To excess greasiness and are designed to alleviate unes-
greasy hair they should impart volume and lightness thetic consequences on hair. They are generally formu-
and reduce weighing down from regreasing. To fine lated around one or more specific ingredients selected
hair they should provide bounce, body, and hold. To for their effectiveness on these conditions.
damaged hair they should give back smoothness, gloss, The fight against dandruff is aimed at Pifyrosporum
and manageability. ovale, whose proliferation induces a quasi-inflammatory
Formulating these shampoos demands a more elabo- process reflected by a scaling condition and itching.
rate process than for the other types. The cleaning po- Specific inhibitors of this yeast must therefore form part
of the formulation: piroctone olamine, zinc pyridinethi- variety of choices with which they are faced and the
one, selenium disulfide, and plant or coal tars are the dramatic improvements brought about in recent years
most common active ingredients found in antidandruff in the formulation and performance of shampoos from
shampoos on the market. Regular use of these products, several important aspects: properties in use (enhanced
based on a mild cleansing surfactant system, clinically foaming, soft and voluptuous lather, pleasantness r!f
and significantly alleviates the dandruff condition. use); wet hair after shampooing (easily untangled, ban
For the greasy hair type, anionic shampoos with mild is soft but not limp, with a freestyle, lightweight im-
but efficient action are generally preferred because they pression); and hair after drying (has a pleasant, more
come in contact with a scalp that is often in poor con- natural feel without static, is smooth, and is volumi-
dition and in need of restoral. Even massage should be nous yet lightweight).
kept to a minimum, to prevent abrasive action by the Such improvements have been accomplished
hair on the scalp. Significant results have been obtained through the increased sophistication of surfactani
with a very mild fluid surfactant mixture based on non- blends (eg, the introduction of acyl glutamate or glu-
ionic polyglycerol derivatives. Regular use of this type camine derivatives) and through the availability of new
of formulation has been shown to delay the onset of polymers and silicone oils and the skill of their incor-
regreasing after shampooing and to progressively im- poration in new formulations.
prove the scalp condition. Multifunctionalism has also benefited from the avail.-
Active topical ingredients able to efficiently control ability of novel ingredients. When these are amalgam-.
the production of sebum have yet to be identified. At- ated into a surfactant blend, however, the issue at stake
tempts have been made with astringents and hydro- is to profit from their intrinsic qualities by optimal man-
phobic ingredients to hinder sebum excretion, spread- agement and modulation of the interactions that occur
ing, and uptake by hair. For instance, during the cleansing step, the conditioning
agents should remain in suspension in the lather-onlv
Recent Trends and Changes in subsequently being released during rinsing in microfine
Shampoo Formulation droplets onto the hair to smooth it or individualize it or
eliminate untoward interactions without interfering
As pointed out earlier, the true role of a shampoo is not with soil dispersal. Such development programs need
merely to cleanse. It has evolved into a product de- heavy investment in basic research.
signed to succor and beautify the hair. As such, it Constant research to find new formulas is at the root
should continuously adapt to changing hairstyle trends, of the progress achieved in the composition of cleansing
habits, needs, and highly versatile consumer demands. agents and conditioning agents. For example, the recent
In recent years, an increased frequency in shampooing identification of an essential sphingolipid of the hair’s
has been noted, along with a trend toward a one-step, cuticle cell cement, the synthesis of model ceramides,
single-dose procedure instead of two steps and a and the development of a synergic environment by the
double dose to complete the cleaning process. Hairstyle formulator have enabled the assembly of an innovative
techniques have evolved-for instance, drying natu- shampoo capable of strengthening weakened hair.
rally, scrunching by hand, and so on. In the early 199Os,
a natural, unkempt grunge look was in vogue; in the Vevelopmenf of a Shampoo
mid-1990s, a more sophisticated, well-groomed, condi- Developing a shampoo is a lengthy, arduous task,
tioned look seems to be back. New effects are desired punctuated by a series of tests and checkpoints. A bat-
from shampoo: a natural feel, exceptional lightness of tery of tests is used to evaluate the foaming potential,
styling. detergency, ease of combing and disentangling, flya-
After the success story of “2 in 1,” there is now a way, springiness, hold, and so on, mostly on calibrated
growing interest in increased conditioning benefits, in- swatches. The ultimate appraisal of a shampoo can be
dividually tailored products that inevitably pose the achieved only by on-head trials. The best way to judge
question of how best to achieve the desired result: the qualities of a shampoo is to compare it with a se-
choosing between a multifunctional shampoo and a lected reference shampoo and to apply them both on
two- (or three-) step program in which the shampoo is the same head. Both shampoos are applied simulta-
closely allied to the subsequent conditioner(s) to gain neously, using the massaging gesture on each side of
maximum benefit. Still, multifunctional products-such the head. Numerous observations are made throughout
as those that clean, foam, condition, and protect from the operation. Conditioning properties are assessed -011
sun damage or combat dandruff-have maintained wet hair after rinsing and on dried hair after setting.
their popularity. Other inclinations are toward mild- The evolution of hair condition is observed during a
ness, “upscale” professional products for home use, period of days after shampooing. The effects of re-
and cost-effectiveness (added value). peated application must also be studied.
These changes in consumer attitudes also reflect the When development is completed, the performance of
Clinics in Dermatology l 1996;14:113-121 SHAMPOOS 121

the new shampoo is further monitored in consumer or What is more, users are advised to change and alter-
salon testing. nate shampoos to avoid a decline in efficacy through
habituation. They must be in a position to vary their
Conclusions choice of product.
Today’s shampoo is thus an assembled product, de-
There is a very great variety of shampoos from which to veloped with care to meet a precise objective, supported
choose. This abundance may seem excessive, but in fact by and benefiting from a permanent state of progress
no two heads of hair are identical: the type of hair, its whose end result is to offer everyone the possibility of
history, its treatment and care, and the manner in which finding the formulation best suited to hair type, care
it may suffer over the course of a lifetime mean that the needs, styling, and the most up-to-date beauty treat-
needs of each person’s hair are hugely variable. ment.