Manual Focus
Manual Focus
Live view is a more accurate way of obtaining focus and adjust the focus ring until the image you see on
manually than peeping through the viewfinder the screen is sharp. Once you’ve acquired focus, take
because you can magnify the image on your review your shot. Simple, right?
screen to see very fine details. It’s a slower and more
deliberate process than just getting the dot in the It is, but like with using focus confirmation you’ll
viewfinder, and it chews up your battery faster, but have to know your camera to get the best results. I
the end result is worth the time spent. This method currently own three different bodies that have the
works best when using a tripod or other means to live view feature, and they are all a little different
stabilize the camera. from one another in how pixelated the image renders
on the display. Take time to play around with your
As the name implies, what you see is truly a live view camera. Study how it behaves and what kind of
of what your image will look like – exposure, depth of quirks it has. Over time, you’ll learn what a well-
field, and all! The slightest change in focus can make focused image looks like on your screen and become
or break your image, especially with shallower depths more confident in using the technique.
of field. Being able to see the effects of such slight
changes will help you get the best results possible. Recommended Resource: Want to expand
your shooting skills in a matter of days? Drop
Another advantage is the ability to focus anywhere those lengthy photography manuals and grab a
in the scene. The focal points in your viewfinder are set of 65 printable project sheets that will help
going to be bunched up in the center of the frame, you master photography, fast: Action Cards.
making it difficult to focus on elements toward the
edges. When using live view, you can zoom in all
the way to the edges and corners if that’s where you
want your focus to be.
Huh?
Some lenses will have it marked out for you on the barrel! The
range is found by setting your subject distance and then reading
the distances that line up with the markings for your selected
aperture. The image on the left illustrates this. It shows my
Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D lens, which has depth of field markings
for f/11 and f/22. The yellow numbers on the focus ring are the
distance in feet. The white numbers are the distance in meters.
The subject distance is set to roughly 2.8’ (.85m). If the aperture
were set to f/11, everything 2.5’-3’ (.76m-.91m) away would
be in focus. If the aperture were set to f/22, the range would
increase to 2.3’-3.3’ (.7m-1m).
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