80M / 40M ZR – ZS HF RECEIVER

The information contained in this document has been carefully checked

and is believed to be entirely reliable. No responsibility is assumed for
inaccuracies. ZS1I reserves the right to make changes to improve
reliability, function or design without obligation to purchasers of previous
equipment. ZS1I does no assume any liability arising out of the
application or use of any product or circuit described herein.
Read the ZS1I Kit Warranty.

WARNING: ZS1I RESERVES ALL COPY-RIGHTS.

© 2005, ZS1I PROJECTS, MOSSEL BAY, SOUTH AFRICA.

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INTRODUCTION

The 80M / 40M ZR – ZS HF RECEIVER is a general-purpose direct conversion HF receiver.

This receiver was designed as a research and development project for radio amateurs. This
project conforms to the prescribed procedures for Class A1 (ZS) license assessment as
required by the Radio Regulations. Build this project and “transform” that ZR callsign to the
sought after ZS callsign.

You will enjoy the performance of this receiver and you will experience the satisfaction of
constructing your own amateur radio “artwork”. I think they call it a sense of achievement. I
looked at many other direct conversion receiver designs, but chose this one for the mere fact
that this receiver combines the “Old” and the “Not so Old” construction technique. It is not
just a matter of “sticking” the components in the holes and solder them into place. No, you
turn your own coils for the 80m and 40m band and you have the option of altering the receiver
to suite your personal needs.

(Schematic diagram of the ZR – ZS Receiver on next page)

USE THIS SPACE FOR NOTES:

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3
Let’s not waste anymore time …..read on!

We use the TDA7000 FM Receiver chip as a two-band, 80 and 40 meter, CW and SSB
receiver. But how can you use a FM chip on CW and SSB? We only use the oscillator and
mixer sections as an on-frequency product detector or direct conversion receiver.
Performance exceeds existing designs using the NE602 or the later NE612 IC chip. Direct
conversion receivers using the NE602 IC chips was quite popular some years ago. Basically a
double-balanced mixer with an onboard oscillator and associated regulator components, the
NE602 in combination with a 50 or 250 mW audio amplifier makes an excellent direct
conversion receiver with only a minimum of support components. Examples of such receivers
are: The Neophyte, Ramsey HR-8080 and the Sudden Receiver.

Direct conversion receivers using the NE602 and LM386 do have a couple of drawbacks.
Firstly the NE602 or NE612 is quite hard to come by in South Africa and if you do find a
source, you will have to fork out a lot of “R” for this IC. Another serious drawback is the
lack of dynamic range. Most designs provide for an attenuator pot on the input. The operator
must constantly ride the gain. You will also find that the stronger signals drive the NE602
into distortion while the NE602 with an LM386 audio output stage has insufficient volume to
drive a speaker to a comfortable listening level. Finally the NE602 has a maximum voltage
rating of 8 volts.

Now lets look at the TDA7000. This IC operates at 12 volts. This in combination with an
LM386 output stage, has plenty of audio to drive an 8 to 10 cm speaker. Front-end overload is
not a problem. The TDA7000 was designed as a receiver frond end for home telephones,
radios and the like. The NE602, on the other hand, was designed as a second IF for cellular
phones where it operated in a more steady condition. The TDA7000 is an 18 pin dip with a
mixer, an oscillator and two op amps for audio frequency (70 kHz) IF stages, muting, and FM
detector stages.

COMPONENT LIST

The component list is organized by part type, description and colour codes where applicable.
Verify that all parts are present by checking in the space [ ] provided as you locate the part in
the list. You may wish to sort the parts into a compartmented container as you inventory
them. This will aid you in building the kit.

Resistors (1/4 w 5% Carbon Film):

[ ] R1 100 ohm (Brown, Black, Brown, Gold)

[ ] R2 10K Potentiometer, audio taper with switch
[ ] R3 100K (Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold)
[ ] R4 4.7K linear potentiometer
[ ] R5 4K7 (Yellow, Violet, Red, Gold)
[ ] R6 100K (Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold) (Alternative to C17 365 pF Cap.)
[ ] R7 4K7 (Yellow, Violet, Red, Gold) (Alternative to C17 365 pF Cap.)
[ ] R8 4.7K Potentiometer (Alternative to C17 365 pF Cap.)
[ ] R9 10 ohm (Brown, Black, Black, Gold)
[ ] R10 1K (Brown, Black, Red, Gold)

Capacitors:

Capacitors may be marked in various ways. The typical markings are listed but may vary.
Find all that match and the remaining ones, if any, should become apparent by elimination.

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Ceramic, Polyester, Electrolytic, Mylar or Monolithic

[ ] C1 220uF/35V electrolytic capacitor

[ ] C2 220uF/35V electrolytic capacitor
[ ] C3 10uF/25V electrolytic capacitor
[ ] C4 100uF/25V electrolytic capacitor
[ ] C5 100pF (101)
[ ] C6 0.001uF (102)
[ ] C7 0.1 uF (104)
[ ] C8 0.1 uF (104)
[ ] C8A 0.1 uF (104) (optional filter component)
[ ] C8B 0.1 uF (104) (optional filter component)
[ ] C9 0.1 uF (104)
[ } C10 100 pF (101)
[ ] C11 100 pF (101)
[ ] C12 100 pF (101)
[ ] C13 100 pF (101) (Alternative to C17 365 pF Cap.)
[ ] C14 100 pF (101) (Alternative to C17 365 pF Cap.)
[ ] C15 220 pF (221)
[ ] C16 220 pF (221)
[ ] C17 365 pF air variable capacitor (optional and not included in the kit)
[ ] C18 0.1 uF (104)
[ ] C19 0.001 uF (102) (optional filter component)
[ ] C20 0.1 uF (104) (optional filter component)
[ ] C21 0.01 uF (103) (optional filter component)
[ ] C22 0.0047 uF (472) (optional filter component)
[ ] C23 0.001 uF (102) (optional filter component)
[ ] C24 0.001 uF (102) (optional filter component)
[ ] C25 0.01 uF (103)

Diodes:

[ ] D1 1N4001 silicon diode

[ ] D2 NTE618 varicap diode
[ ] D3 NTE618 varicap diode (Alternative to C17 365 pF Cap.)

Light Emitting Diode:

[ ] D4 Red

Integrated Circuits:

NOTE: Do not handle the IC’s at this time!! Carefully remove the IC’s from the foil
enclosure and verify the IC’s against the list. Do not touch the IC’s! They do work and were
tested before delivery.

[ ] TDA7000 FM Receiver Chip

[ ] LM386 Audio Amplifier IC

Miscellaneous:

[ ] 18 Pin IC Socket
[ ] 8 Pin IC Socket

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[ ] Printed Circuit Board
[ ] Assembly Manual (this document)
[ ] Stranded wire (connecting wire)
[ ] Enamel insulated copper wire
[ ] SPDT (on-off-on) toggle switch
[ ] Plastic Coil Former

IMPORTANT NOTE:

The following parts/components are not included in this kit due to builder’s choice.

Vernier Drive
Frequency read-out
Cabinet Enclosure
Frequency Dial
Potentiometer Knobs
Antenna Connectors
Fuse Holder
Power Connectors
Speaker
365 pF Air Variable Capacitor (additional)
Led Holder

Some of the components listed above can be supplied, subject to availability and at additional
cost.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:

VERY IMPORTANT: Pay careful attention to the following:

1. Read this entire document thoroughly prior to starting construction of your kit.
2. Identifying the pins of IC’s. (See included data sheets)
3. Observe anti-static precautions when handling and assembling IC’s.
4. Not to reverse polarity of battery/power supply and switch wires!!! THIS WILL
DAMAGE THE RECEIVER!!!

You are now ready to begin construction of the ZR – ZS Receiver. Follow standard
construction practices when building the unit.

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Use a temperature-controlled, fine-tipped soldering iron of relatively low wattage (25 watts
maximum, 15 watts is ideal) and a good quality solder for construction. Keep the tip of your
soldering iron bright and clean, wiping it frequently on a wet rag or sponge. Make solder
joints carefully, but swiftly. Prolonged heat on a PC board pad can be as disastrous as it can
ruin the PC board. Two to three seconds should be enough time to apply heat to any joint.
Due to the proximity of some of the tracks on the PC board, solder bridges are a very distinct
possibility. However the layout of this PC board was done to assist builders with little or no
experience. Enough space between components exists for the ease of soldering and fitting of
the components, hence the larger PC board. Following these points could eliminate several
hours of troubleshooting (or worse). This is good practice when working on any kit.

You will need small flush or semi-flush cutting pliers (I use my wife’s nail clipper) and small-
tipped long nose pliers. A magnifying glass may prove helpful to identify the values of the
small components.

CONSTRUCTION:

Refer to the above diagram for clarification of parts placement and install one component at a
time. Important: Clean the legs of all components before installing them into the PCB.

Resistors

Resistors have a lead spacing of 10.16 mm and should lie flat on the PC board. You may wish
to use a lead former to pre-form the resistor leads for neatest appearance. Installation of the
resistors on the board is not critical and you can start with R1. WARNING: Be careful when
clipping leads, as they have a tendency to fly towards your eyes! Take appropriate precautions
(grasp leads and wear eye protection).

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Diode

Diodes are polarity sensitive devices. Diodes are mounted flat near the surface of the board
like the resistors previously installed. The cathode end of diode 1N4001 is banded. This is
however not the case with the two NTE618 varicap diodes. Refer to the attached datasheet for
the correct polarity and how to install the NTE618 diodes. If incorrectly installed the receiver
will not function.

Now check your work. All leads should be soldered. There should be no solder bridges or
cold solder connections.

IC Sockets

NOTE: If any socket pins are bent, carefully straighten them with a pair of long-nose pliers
before assembly. Some types of IC sockets have crimps in the pins to hold them in place
when automatic wave soldering is performed. These sockets may be tricky to install if you are
not familiar with them. If your kit contains these sockets, you may want to straighten the pins
before attempting to insert them into the PC board.

When installing IC sockets double check to ensure that the socket is seated properly against
the board with the notch pointing in the correct direction. (See component outlay diagram)
Next, tack-solder two diagonally opposite corners first (such as pins 1 and 8 on a 14 pin
socket).

Then solder the remaining pins of that socket before proceeding to the next one. If you find a
socket is difficult to install, remove it and double-check for a bent pin. Do not insert the IC’s
at this stage.

CAUTION!! Take care to avoid solder bridges!

Now check your work. All leads should be soldered. There should be no solder bridges ( a
blob of solder that shorts two adjacent soldered connections) or cold (gray and / or grainy
looking) solder connections.

Capacitors

All capacitors should be mounted as nearly flush to the board surface as practical without
stressing the leads. Electrolytic capacitors are polarized. The positive lead goes in the hole on
the board marked with a “+”. Be careful! Typically the negative lead is marked and
sometimes the positive lead is marked.

Now check your work. All leads should be soldered. There should be no solder bridges or
cold solder connections.

Connecting wires:

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IMPORTANT: Make these wires as short as possible!!

GND = Ground of 50 ohm antenna (next to 50)

GND = Negative of 12V Battery
+12V = Positive of 12 V Battery (Red wire to back of 10 K Pot. Switch. Other terminal, red
wire to positive of 12 V Battery)
Hi Z = Connect long wire antenna when using receiver at night.
50 = 50 ohm antenna (center) use during daytime.
TO R4 = 5K lin. Potentiometer (center of pot. view from back)
TO R4 TOP = 5K lin. Potentiometer (left view from back)
TO R4 GND = 5K lin, Potentiometer ( right view from back)
TO R2 = 10K Potentiometer (left view from back)
TO R2 GND = 10K Potentiometer (right view from back)
TO R2 CT = 10K Potentiometer (center of pot. view from back)

Note: Omit R7, R8, R6, C13, C14 AND D3 if you intent to use a 365 pF Air Variable
Capacitor. The 365 pF Capacitor could be scrounged from an old commercial radio.
In the event of using the alternative VFO connect R8 as follow:

TO R8 CT = 5K Potentiometer (center of pot. view from back)

TO R8 TOP = 5K Potentiometer (left view from back)
TO R8 GND = 5K Potentiometer (right view from back)

+ Audio out = Positive wire of Speaker

_ Audio out = Negative wire of Speaker

80 M = Wire from coil to left terminal of SPDT toggle switch.

A = Wire from A to center of SPDT toggle switch.
40 M = Wire from coil to right terminal of SPDT toggle switch.

NOTE: Keep wires to SPDT toggle switch short and twisted to prevent change in VFO
frequency. Twist wire leads going to the audio gain control to eliminate hum.

Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs)

LEDs are polarized components. The flat side on the body and the shorter lead of the two
identifies the cathode lead. Solder the surplus 1K (R10) to the cathode side of the LED.
Solder the LED with the resistor in line with the + and – power terminals and you have a LED
indicating ON or OFF. NOTE: Cathode = positive ; Anode = negative.

Coils

The winding and construction of the three coils is very critical and the utmost care must be
taken to do it correctly. Failure to wind and construct them correctly will result in the receiver
not receiving the desired frequencies. (40 and 80 Meter Bands)

Coil Values:

L1 – 5T 24 AWG scramble wound on L2

L2 – 35T 24 AWG close wound on 10 mm dia form
L3 – 27T 24 AWG close wound on 10 mm dia form
L4 – 10T 24 AWG close wound on 10 mm dia form

With the values shown, the receiver will tune from 3 to 11 Mhz

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To wind the coils you have to glue the first turn down, leaving 10mm of wire facing away
form the coil. I use hot glue for gluing but super glue will also work. Wind the coil with the
required amount of turns and glue the other end. Bend the copper wire down so that all the
ends face towards the PCB. Scrape the varnish (insulation) of each wire with a sharp cutting
knife. (10mm each end). Place coil on PCB as indicated in the component diagram and
solder. It may seem strange not to have any adjustment on the coils or trimmer capacitors for
calibration, but once you have the VFO in operation it only takes a few minutes to adjust the
tuning range.

Installing the IC’s

Install the LM386 and TDA7000 in the appropriate DIP socket. Make absolutely sure that the
dotted end is oriented correctly as indicated on the PCB and Parts Layout Diagram. Prevent
any static discharge by taking the necessary anti static precautions.

Important Note: Do not solder any component on the PCB with the supply voltage to the
receiver in the on position. Disconnect supply voltage to the receiver before soldering any
component.

VFO tuning

To change the VFO frequency, either add turns (lowers frequency) or remove turns (raises
frequency) from either the 40M or 80M coil.
You might have to desolder the 80 and 40 meter coils several times to shorten the coil length.
Take care not to burn the PCB when desoldering. Mount the coils vertically by gluing the
ends to the PCB. Maker sure that the coils do not touch (short-circuit) each other as this will
result in added inductance/capacitance which we don’t want. When you have finally peaked
the coils, runs some glue along the coils to keep the turns in place. Be careful with this, we do
not want to again change the frequency.

The winding of the coils and alignment thereof is quite time consuming. Take your time and
don’t be in a hurry. The correct winding and alignment of the coils will ultimately result in a
working receiver in the desired frequency range.

Checking the VFO frequency

Various instruments can be used to check the VFO frequency.

If a general coverage receiver is used to set the VFO frequency, place a short antenna lead
near the VFO and tune the receiver for a signal. Adjust R8 (Alt. C17) to find an indication of
the VFO frequency.

If a signal generator is used, place a short lead from the output of the generator close to the
receiver. Adjust R8 (Alt. C17) until the signal is found.

If no test equipment is available, adjust R8 (Alt. C17) a little bit at a time while peaking R4.
Tune the VFO tuning capacitor and listen to the signals. When you hear some familiar
signals, you will be close to the band you looking for.

Battery or Power Supply?

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Remember maximum voltage to the receiver is 12V. You can use a 12 volt power supply with
the receiver but make sure that the supply is well filtered and regulated otherwise the receiver
will be plagued by heavy interference. I prefer to use a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery, which
is interference free.

Note: When using a 9Volt PP3 battery with a large speaker the receiver audio sounds
“Donald Duck-ish”. Earphones gives clear audio signals with a 9 volt battery.

Antenna Considerations

This receiver will only be as good as the antenna being used. The antenna can be as simple as
a 10 meter piece of wire or a 40/80 meter dipole antenna. The receiver has two antenna
inputs. 50 ohm and Hi-Z inputs. Use the 50 ohm input during daytime for 40M and the Hi-Z
input in the evening for 80M.

Specifications

The receiver presented here was built on a PCB with dimensions of 12cm x 8 cm. The cabinet
you use must be big enough to accommodate a reasonable size dial, possibly a 365pF air
variable capacitor and room to operate the controls. An alternative for the 365pF capacitor is
to use a 440 pF NTE618 varicap diode and a potentiometer. The main tuning dial is a vernier
drive with a pointer. The dial drive and tuning capacitor are a matter of builder’s choice.
Band switching is accomplished by switching only the VFO coils. The two-terminal oscillator
circuit of the TDA7000 simplifies this. A second varactor diode tunes the antenna coil to the
desired band.

Modifications

I used one of the op amp IF stages in the TDA7000 for audio selectivity, then later both op
amps. See schematic diagrams marked (A) and (B).

USE THIS SPACE FOR NOTES:

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(A) is a Salien-Key low pass filter with a cutoff frequency of 2000 Hz, while (B) is a
bandpass filter. Components were selected to give a bandpass of 300 to 2500Hz for SSB
reception.
NOTE: USE ONLY C8 IF NO FILTER IS USED. C8A for the low-pass filter or C8B for the
bandpass filter.

Troubleshooting

1. If the receiver does not work at all, check the obvious things first and carefully:
battery/power supply polarity, soldering of battery/power supply wires and switch,
connections to speaker or speaker jack. Also be sure that you correctly installed all
components and wires.
2. If the operation is erratic, a solder connection is usually the culprit- or there’s a break
in your antenna or speaker wire.
3. To solve other problems, it is necessary to recheck your work with special attention
to the following:

• Correct direction for dotted end of all IC’s.

• Correct direction for banded end of diodes.
• Correct direction for [+] side of all electrolytic capacitors.
• Correct values for capacitors in TDA7000 oscillator circuit.
• Correct winding and trimming of L1, L2, L3 and L4 coils.
• Check the oscillator as described supra. If the oscillator works, only an
incorrectly installed part can prevent the rest of the receiver circuit from
functioning.

If rechecking the above critical details has not solved your problem, then carefully check
every part value in the step-by-step assembly. An incorrect installed resistor or capacitor is

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easy to overlook; sometimes checking your work backwards will make the error more
obvious.

General

This receiver was tested intensively under various propagation conditions. Remember that
this receiver is a direct conversion type and not a state of the art receiver with DSP filtering.
The receiver does suffer periodically from AM breakthrough, especially at nighttime but this
can be filtered out by means of an appropriate filter if needed. (additional project)

No frequency drift of the VFO was present in the final prototype receiver. If you experience
frequency drift, replace the ceramic capacitors C10 – C16 with polyester or mylar capacitors.

Minimum discernible signal is less than 0.2 microvolts. Stability is quite good. All capacitors
used in the frequency-determining circuits must be of good quality. Use polystyrene or silver
mica types if you wish. Overall this receiver is the best direction conversion receiver I have
ever built.

Accessories

As mentioned in the introduction paragraph this receiver was designed as a research and
development project for radio amateurs. Possible future accessories may include:

• External SSB Filter

• External Audio Notch Filter
• Digital Frequency readout
• Modification to the existing receiver
• Adding a Fine Tune Control for the VFO

Finally

Congratulations! If you have made good soldering connections and have all parts identified
and orientated correctly, you now own a working direct conversion receiver, ready for the
prescribed test by an assessor of the South African Radio League.

Have fun with this project. I am sure that there is room for improvement but the intention
with this project is to make a kit available to ZR’S who wish to upgrade to ZS licensees.
I do not claim originality for the design of this project. The writing of this manual, article,
drawing of the schematic diagrams, new layout of the printed circuit board, list of components
and photographs were however compiled by ZS1I. If you have any suggestions or ideas to
modify and improve this receiver, please contact ZS1I PROJECTS via email at:
zs1i@mweb.co.za.

Acknowledgements

The “80M / 40M ZR – ZS HF RECEIVER” project-idea was made possible by the pioneering
efforts of:

1. Paul Daulton K5WMS

2. Dave Burke N5KRN
3. Bill Allsop W5TJY
4. Johan Terblanche ZS1I

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Thanks to Danie Landman ZR2GE and Johan Landman ZR1EJ for the interest shown in this
project and to ultimately “transform” that ZR callsign to the ZS callsign.

ORDERS:

Kits are available while stock lasts.

Contact Person: Johan ZS1I

Telephone: 044 6933136
Email: zs1i@mweb.co.za

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THE ZS1I PROJECTS KIT WARRANTY

Please read carefully before calling or writing in about problems with

your kit. Most problems can be solved without contacting ZS1I
PROJECTS.

Please note that this is not a “fine print” warranty. The very fact that your kit
includes this manual is your assurance that ZS1I PROJECTS has field-tested
several “copies” of this kit. If you need help please read through your manual
carefully, all information required to properly build and test your kit is
contained in the manual.

Serial Number PCB:

Each kit is provided with a serial number starting with S/N 2006##. This is
your own unique identification number and could also serve as a control
number by an assessor of the S.A.R.L.

Defective Parts:

It is always easy to blame a part for a problem in your kit, however, amateur
radio satisfaction is ZS1I PROJECTS goal, so in the event that you do have a
problem, take note of the following. Before you conclude that a part may be
bad, thoroughly check your work. Today’s semiconductors and passive
components have reached incredible high reliability levels and it is sad to say
that our human construction skills have not. However bad components can
slip through. Please note that all IC’s has been tested prior to delivery.
Defective parts will only be replaced on return of the faulty component. If
you suspect any part to be defective, mail only the component and not the
entire kit. The part(s) must be returned in a suitable condition for testing.
Please be aware that testing can usually determine it the part was truly
defective or damaged by assembly or usage. Don’t be afraid of telling me that
you “blew it”, we are all human and in most cases, replacement parts are very
reasonably priced. Rather be honest than be noted as a “chancer”.

Missing Parts:

Before assuming a part value is incorrect or missing, check the parts listing
and packaging carefully to ensure that it is indeed the case. ZS1I PROJECT
KITS are packed with pride in the Southern Cape. If you believe we packed
an incorrect part or omitted a part clearly indicated in your assembly manual
as supplied with the basic kit, please write or call us with information on the
part you need and proof of kit purchase.

Repair and Assemble Kits:

15
ZS1I PROJECTS will not repair, find faults or assemble any kits.
We do unfortunately not provide the above services at this stage.

Refunds:

ZS1I PROJECTS will not refund any money for kits bought.

Sign. J. TERBLANCHE ZS1I

ZS1I ELECTRONIC PROJECTS
MOSSEL BAY
SOUTHERN CAPE

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80M/40M ZR-ZS HF RECEIVER MESSAGE
BOARD:

This message board is devoted to the 80M/40M ZR-ZS HF RECEIVER

project. This is in response to questions received via e-mail by constructors to
clear uncertainties around the construction of the kit. If you have a question,
please e-mail it directly to zs1i@mweb.co.za. I will update this message
board from time to time. Please Note: I will not answer questions directly via
this Forum!

(Questions are in black ink, while the answer is in blue.)

_______________________________________________________________

Received: 15 February 2006

1. What will happen if I install the NTE618 (varicap diode)?

incorrectly on the PCB? You will destroy this very difficult obtainable
component. Be careful when handling this component, as it is static sensitive.
To assist you to install this component correctly, I have added the drawing of
the component indicating the which leg is the Anode and which is the
Cathode. A photograph of the installed components is also attached.

2. Must the variable resistors (R2, R4 and R8) lugs; face upward or downward
when soldering the connecting wires to them? They should face upwards to
correspond to the instructions in the manual. When soldering the wires to the
lugs you should face the back of the Pot. End of the lugs will face toward you.

3. Which wires should be twisted together? Preferably all of them to prevent

hum and interference as well as stray capacitances. Practically this will not be
easy accomplished, as some wires are single. However it is absolutely
essential to twist the wires that connect the 40M and 80M toggle switch to the
PCB and VFO. (80M, A, 40M on PCB) It may be necessary to play around
with the amount of twists going to the toggle switch to acquire the correct
VFO frequency.

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4. How must I wind Coil 1 and 2? Next to each other or on top of each
other? Proceed to wind L2 first. 35 T 24 AWG on the enclosed former.
Once L2 is wound, you can wind L1 on top of L2. Wind L1 over the length of
L2. In other words spread the windings of L1 over L2. Remember to hot glue
the coil to prevent the windings from moving around, as this will change the
VFO frequency.

5. No mentioning is made of C25 in the parts list. Is it essential to install C25?

Omission rectified in the manual. C25 must be installed.

_______________________________________________________________

Received: 5 March 2006

1. Must I clean the legs of components before installing them into the PCB?
I would strongly recommend your do just that. During time corrosion build up
on some component legs. I normally scrape them clean with a sharp knife
before soldering them.

2. The tuning of the receiver with the VFO knob is very sensitive and the
slightest movement of this knob effects fine-tuning. How can I rectify this?
I suggest you install a venier drive also called a slow drive to assist you with
fine-tuning. I am currently working on a fine tune control to be added to the
receiver.

3. I just completed my receiver and it works on 80M and 40M. I had to

change the turns for 40M to 8 turns to get it into the 40M-band.
Thank you for making this receiver available to radio amateurs to upgrade to
the ZS-License.
I am glad you enjoyed building this kit and you got it working the first time.
Simple to build it you stick to the basics.

4. Just to let you know that my receiver is working beautifully on both bands.
Any possibility for some more amateur radio kits?
I am currently working on some more amateur radio kits. Keep an eye on the
Technical Forum of the South African Radio League for more information.

Ontvang: 20 Maart 2006

1. Ek het vanaand ‘n vraag gekry van een van ons klublede en dit is wat die
tegniese spesifikasies van die projek frekwensie en modus behels?
Die ontvanger se frekwensie spektrum is 3 tot 11 Mhz, natuurlik met
toepaslike spoele verandering. Dit behoort dus moontlik te wees om maklik
die 30 Meter band kan maklik in plek van 40M of 80M bygevoeg word.

18
Persoonlik het ek dit nog nie self getoets nie. Modes: SSB en CW. AM is
moontlik, maar word nie aanbeveel nie weens die samestelling van die filters
en ander komponente waardes.

Ontvang 22 Maart 2006

1. Ek verskaf graag die volgende inligting rondom die draai van spoele L3 en
L4. My ontvanger werk goed. L3 word aangetoon as as 27 draaie vir die 80M
band. Ek het myne ook 27 draaie gemaak en ontvangs op 80M is binne die
SA Bandplan. Op 40M (L4) moes ek egter die draaie verminder vanaf 10
draaie na 8 draaie. L1 en L2 is gedraai soos aangetoon in die handleiding.
Enige kommentaar?
Die draaie verskaf vir die spoele in die handleiding is by benadering aangesien
heelwat afhang van die lengte van koppeldrade en waardes van komponente.
Ek het ook begin by 10 draaie vir die 40M band en het uiteindelik geeindig by
7 ¾ draaie. Heel normaal. Dankie vir die inligting.

2. Ek heg hierby aan ‘n kringdiagram vir ‘n modifikasie vir fynverstelling van

die VFO. Ek het die fynverstellings verandering gemaak aan die ZR – ZS HF
ONTVANGER en dit werk uitstekend!
Baie dankie vir die modifikasie. Dit stel jou nou in staat om baie beter te kan
instel op ‘n frekwensie. Ek sal eersdaags die fynverstellings modifikasie aan
belangstellende radio amateurs per e-pos stuur. Dankie vir jou bydrae.

REGSTELLING : 25 Maart 2005

KOMMENTAAR DEUR ZS1I: Die skematiese diagram voorsien dui nie aan
dat pennetjie 16 op die TDA7000 na grond moet gaan nie. Dit is wel die geval
op die “PCB”. Dit het geen effek op die werkverrigting van die ontvanger nie
aangesien die “PCB” korrek is. Dit is net ‘n regstelling rakende die skematiese
diagram. Pennetjie 16 gaan na C18 se een kant wat na grond toe lei.

COMMENT BY ZS1I: The supplied schematic diagram does not indicate

that one end of C18 and Pin 16 of the TDA7000 must go to ground. It does
not have any effect on the efficiency of the receiver, as the PCB is correct.
This is only a rectification of the schematic diagram.

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