Interactive Maintenance

Manual
M0360 - Version 2.1
Click an engine or scroll to next page to continue
Contents:
Introduction
Maintenance Schedule
‘How to…’ section
Non-routine maintenance
 INT1

Welcome to the ULPower maintenance manual 2.1

This guide provides a quick access to maintenance schedules, procedures for routine maintenance and also some
selected non-routine maintenance activities. Your particular installation may vary slightly, and we refer you to your engine
and OEM installation guides for further details.

You may always return to the ‘Contents Page’ for maintenance by clicking on the ULPower logo on the top right
of each page.
You may return to the previous chapter by clicking the or to the latest position in the maintenance shedule
by clicking

You may also simply ‘scroll’ through the guide. If you are using this guide on a mobile phone or tablet you may need to
download the Adobe Acrobat Reader to enable the links. Using the links will make use easier. Each page has a reference on
the top right of the page, making reference when speaking to another guide user easier.

Please always verify that you are using the latest manuals available from ULPower - http://ulpower.com before
carrying out any work on your engine.
The abbreviation “i.a.w. … manuals” means ‘in accordance with… manuals”

Regards
The ULPower Team (email info@ulpower.com ) E&OE September 2019
 INT2

Preface
Thank you for choosing ULPower Aero Engines for your aircraft.
We wish you many happy hours of flying behind our engines.
Before carrying out maintenance work on the engine, carefully read the Maintenance Manual.
If you are unsure about the procedures mentioned in this manual, please contact a ULPower authorised service point.
Remarks
The diagrams and other pictures in this manual show the typical construction. They may not represent in full detail or the
exact shape of the parts which have the same or similar function.
In addition to this Maintenance Manual, please also refer to the Operating Manual available from www.ulpower.com
Modifications
The information and components/system descriptions contained in this manual are correct at the time of publication.
ULPower, however, maintains a policy of continuous improvement of its products without imposing upon itself any
obligation to install them on its products previously manufactured.
ULPower reserves the right at any time to discontinue or change specifications, designs, features, models or equipment
without incurring obligation.
Engine serial number
On all enquiries or spare parts orders, always indicate the engine serial number, as the manufacturer makes modifications
to the engine for further development.
The engine serial number is located on the left side of the crankcase (near the front of the engine).
 INT3

Safety information
This manual has been prepared as a guide to correctly service and maintain the ULPower aircraft engines.
Keep an engine log and respect engine and aircraft maintenance schedules. Keep the engine in top operating condition at all times. Do
not operate any aircraft which is not properly maintained or has engine operating irregularities which have not been corrected.
Spare parts must meet with the requirements defined by the engine manufacturer. This is only warranted by use of genuine ULPower
spare parts and/or accessories. They are available at the authorized ULPower distribution- and service partners.
The use of anything other than genuine ULPower spare parts and/or accessories will render any warranty relating to this engine null and
void.
Please use proper hand tools and/or special service tools.
Torque wrench tightening specifications must be strictly adhered to. Locking devices must be installed or replaced with new ones, where
specified. If the efficiency of a locking device is impaired, it must be renewed.
It is your responsibility to be completely familiar with the safety instructions described in this manual. Failure to follow these instructions
can result in a serious engine malfunction or loss of power in flight, with possible loss of life, injury or damage to equipment.
It is, however, important to understand that the instructions are not exhaustive. ULPower cannot possibly know, evaluate and advise the
user of all conceivable ways in which service might be done or the possible hazardous consequences of each way. Always use common
workshop safety practice.
This information relates to the preparation and use of ULPower aircraft engines and has been utilised safely and effectively by ULPower.
However, ULPower disclaims all liability for any damage and/or injuries resulting from the improper use its products. We strongly
recommend that any service be carried out and/or verified by a highly skilled professional mechanic.
The maintenance functions detailed in this manual are to be considered as average line maintenance. Repairs beyond these levels are not
recommended as maintenance functions and should be done by authorized overhaul facilities.
 INT4

Authorized Personnel
It is a requirement that every organization or individual possesses the required special tooling, training or experience to
perform all tasks outlined. Any task outlined herein may be performed if the organization or individual has met the
following conditions:
Requisite knowledge of the task through:
Experience in performing the task
Formal instruction from a ULPower authorized training facility or "on-the-job" instruction by a ULPower or authorized
ULPower distributor representative.
Suitable work environment to prevent contamination or damage to engine parts.
Suitable tools and fixtures as outlined in the Maintenance Manual.
Reasonable and prudent maintenance practices are utilized.
Requirements of the applicable regulatory authority regarding maintenance procedures are met.
Maintenance organizations and individuals are encouraged to contact ULPower throughout its distribution network for
information and guidance on any task outlined herein.
 INT4

Procedure Notes
• Prior to maintenance or service work, make absolutely sure to comply with the stated safety instructions.
Ensure the following at each maintenance event:
• All electrical systems "OFF“ (Key switch off)
• Disconnect battery
• Secure engine against unintentional operation.
• At maintenance work which requires ignition "ON" and battery connected, take care of the following:
• Secure the propeller against unintentional turning by hand
• Secure and observe propeller zone.
• At maintenance of lubricating and fuel system make sure that no contamination, metal chips, foreign material and/or dirt enters the
system.
• Always allow engine to cool down to outside air temperature before start of any work. Severe burn and scalds may result if this is not
respected.
• Before re-using parts, clean, inspect and refit them as per instructions.
• Before each re-assembly check units for any missing parts.
• Strictly observe the tightening torques for screws and nuts. Over or under tightening could cause severe engine damage.
• If during disassembling/reassembling the removal of a safety item (e.g. locking wire ) is be necessary, it must always be replaced by a
new one.
• Use clean screws and nuts only and inspect face of nuts and the thread for damage. If in doubt, use new screws and nuts.
• At disassembly of the engine, mark the components to avoid any mix-up. Do not remove these markings prior to re-assembly.
• At reassembly of the engine, replace all single use items such as sealing rings, gaskets, securing elements, o-rings and oil-seals.
 INT5

Standard limited engine warranty & warranty conditions

PERIOD TERMS AND CONDITIONS DISCLAIMER
ULPower Aero Engines, as manufacturer, warrants every ULPower non- The LIMITED WARRANTIES cover all parts and labour on engines and ULPOWER'S EXPRESS WARRANTEES AND THE REMEDIES THEREUNDER
certified aircraft engine, sold as new and delivered by an authorised accessories subjected to normal use and operated and maintained in strict ARE EXCLUSIVE AND GIVEN IN PLACE OF (a) ALL OTHER WARRANTIES,
ULPower distributor/reseller, to be free from defects in material and accordance with the corresponding Operating and Maintenance Manuals. EXPRESS, IMPLIED, OR STATUTORY, WHETHER WRITTEN OR ORAL,
workmanship for a period of 24 months or 36 months for engines with All maintenance must be immediately noted, dated and signed in engine INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY WARRANTY OF
serial number higher than 172701). For aerobatic engines (UL260i(S)a , logbook when maintenance is performed or the warranties are VOID. MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS OR PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR IMPLIED
UL350i(S)a, UL390i(S)a, UL520i(S)a, the warranty period is limited to 12 Warranty service may be accomplished ONLY AFTER PRIOR WRITTEN WARRANTY ARRISING FROM PERFORMANCE, COURSE OF DEALING OR
months. Warranty starts on the date of invoice. APPROVAL from ULPower. ULPower retains the right to repair and/or USAGE OF TRADE AND (b) ALL OTHER OBLIGATIONS, LIABILITIES, RIGHTS,
Replacement of any engine, accessory or part under the warranties will replace any parts or accessories required for warranty service. All parts CLAIMS OR REMEDIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARISING BY LAW OR
not create a new warranty period or extend the period of coverage. But replaced under warranty become the property of ULPower. OTHERWISE, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY RIGHT OR REMEDIES
any engine, part or accessory so repaired or replaced will be warranted for The warranties are VOID on any engine or accessory, disassembled, opened, IN CONTRACT, TORT, STRICT LIABILITY OR ARISING FROM ULPOWER'S
the remainder of the original warranty period applicable to the engine, repaired or altered without the prior written approval of ULPower. NEGLIGENCE, ACTUAL OR IMPUTTED.
accessory or part repaired or replaced. The warranties are also VOID on any engine or accessory which has been ULPOWER'S OBLIGATIONS AND PURCHASER'S REMEDIES UNDER
WARRANTY CLAIM operated contrary to corresponding Installation, Operating and ULPOWER'S EXPRESS WARRANTIES ARE LIMITED TO ULPOWER'S CHOICE
Written notice of any warranty claim must be submitted to ULPower Maintenance procedures or which in ULPower's sole opinion has been OF REFUND, REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT ON AN EXCHANGE BASIS AND
within fifteen (15) days of a suspected defect in material or workmanship subjected to misuse, neglect, improper installation, corrosion, foreign EXCLUDE LIABILITY FOR INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR ANY
and the engine, accessory or part must be made available for ULPower's material ingestion, accident, the use of improper oil, fuel or non genuine OTHER DAMAGES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION, ANY LIABILITY OF
inspection within thirty (30) days after the claim has been made. ULPower replacement parts. CUSTOMER TO A THIRD PARTY OR FOR ECONOMIC LOSS, REPLACEMENT
To evaluate a claim, following items must also be made available: The warranties are also VOID on any engine or accessory if a gear reduction COST, COST OF CAPITAL, LOST REVENUE, LOST PROFITS, OR LOSS OF USE
invoice delivered to the customer as proof of date of purchase/delivery. or other power transmission device (including propeller flange extensions) OF OR DAMAGE TO AN AIRCRAFT, ENGINE, COMPONENT OR OTHER
engine log book showing engine time and all maintenance performed not designed or approved in writing by ULPower has been used. PROPERTY AND IN NO EVENT WILL ULPOWER'S LIABILITY EXCEED THE
signed and dated inspection/maintenance sheets. The warranties do not include reimbursement for normal maintenance ORIGINAL COST OF THE ENGINE OR ACCESSORY.
ULPower reserves the right not to accept any claim not submitted in expenses or for incidental expenses such as but not limited to, mounting These LIMITED WARRANTIES are the only warranties offered by ULPower.
accordance with these requirements and dismounting of the engine from the aircraft, loss of use, transportation, No agreement varying these warranties or ULPower's obligations under
towing, communication costs, taxis, hotels, food or any other incidental or them will be binding on ULPower unless made in writing by a duly
consequential damage.. authorised representative of ULPower and accepted in writing by
ULPower.
ULPower will not process or honour warranty claims on delinquent
accounts.
Effective as of December 1st , 2018
 MS1

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

TBO is 1500 hours or 12 years for i and iS(a) engines. (whichever comes first ) After reaching this time limit the engine
should be shipped to an authorized ULPower overhaul facility.

Six year replacement parts include:

• Venting and return hose between breather and oil/air separator
• All fuel lines
• Oil lines to/from oil cooler

Maintenance intervals, an initial 5, 15 and 50 hour (bedding in maintenance), is followed by 100 hour interval or annual
checks. It is recommend to reduce that to 50 hour intervals for those operating in dusty environments or for those using
leaded fuels. For those aircraft doing low hours, each ‘annual’ may be considered a ‘100 hour’ check. Therefore on the
second ‘annual’ a 200 hour visit is required, etc.

After an overhaul, always do the 5 and 15 hour check ups !

We suggest printing the maintenance schedule out and, when filled in, keep it with the engine maintenance records. You
can download from the engine page for your engine from here http://ulpower.com/en/engines (under manuals)
 MS2

Inspection sheet

Dowload a printable
version of this document
from www.ulpower.com
 MS3

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

Check (hr.)
Inspection Items
5 15 50 100 200
Visual inspection of the engine
a) General inspection of the engine for damage and abnormalities, including obstructions, cracks,
wear and condition of cooling air ducts, baffling and cylinder cooling. Take note of changes caused X X X X
by temperature.
b) Thoroughly inspect engine for missing or loose bolts, nuts, pins, etc. Replace if necessary. X X X X
c) Inspection of all temperature and pressure sensors. X X X X
d) Inspection of all oil lines for damage, including leakage, hardening from heat, porosity, loose
X X X X
connections and secure attachments. Verify routing for kinks and restrictions like restricted elbows.
e) Inspect all fuel lines, filters, injectors and pressure regulator for damage, including leakage,
hardening from heat, porosity, loose connections and secure attachments. Verify routing for kinks X X X X
and restrictions like restricted elbows.
f) Verify the complete electrical wiring system including tight fit of connectors, damage and wear. X X X X
g) Check exhaust system for cracks (especially when cabin heating is taken from around the exhaust). X X X X
 MS4

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

Check (hr.)
Inspection Items
5 15 50 100 200
Verification of engine suspension
a) Inspect engine mounts, dampers and fasteners for secure fit, including damage from heat,
X X X X
deformation, cracks. Replace as necessary.
Engine external parts
a) Inspect attachment screws and nuts of all external parts for security and fit. Inspect safety wiring.
X X X X
Replace as necessary.
ECU
Check connections are secure X X X
Verify air pressure sender route/line is secure and free of blockages X X X
The best way to approach a visual inspection is to remove cowls, as appropriate, and take a detailed, sequential look around
the engine. Make yourself familiar with your engine installation. Take pictures to help you remember ‘what it looks like’ and
watch for development of heat affected areas, mechanical wear, hardening, etc. Visual inspection may include (on a cool
engine) ‘looking with your fingers’ for oil leaks, or exhaust gas blow-by, loose connections, etc. (watch out for locking wire and
other sharps). Use of a good torch to light up dim areas may help in these tasks.
 MS5

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

Check (hr.)
Inspection Items
5 15 50 100 200
Oil level
a) Remove magnetic drain plug from bottom of oil sump inspect and clean magnetic pickup.
X X X X
Drain old oil and inspect for foreign particles. Record findings.
b) Replace copper sealing washers of drain plug and refit to oil sump. Torque to 25Nm. X X X X
c) Refill oil sump with approx. [3 litres (iSA: 4l) 4 cylinder] [4 litres of oil (iSA 5l) 6 cylinder].
X X X X
For correct volume and type of oil, refer to Op. Manual.
d) For aerobatic engines(iSA): add 1 bottle(250 ml) of ULP ACRO+ oil additive (part number L0100120) X X X X
e) Inspect oil level and add oil as necessary to maximum mark. For correct type of oil, refer to Op.
X X X X
Manual. Record quantity of oil added NOTE: If using AVGAS, recommended oil change is 50hours
Oil Filter
a) Remove oil filter from engine and install new oil filter. Wipe clean mating surface. Lubricate mating
sealing ring of new oil filter with clean engine oil. Screw on new filter by hand and torque to 15Nm. X X X X
Cut old filter (without creating metal chips/fillings) and inspect filter mat. Record findings
 MS6

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

Check (hr.)
Inspection Items
5 15 50 100 200
Air Filter
a) Inspection of the air filter. Replace as necessary. X X X
b) Replace air filter. X
Fuel Filters
a) Remove all fuel filters from aircraft and install new ones. X X
Cylinder heads (See note “Cylinder head bolts torque” - When checking torque, do not loosen first)
a) Check torque of cylinder head bolts. Re-torque as necessary (36Nm) – Do not loosen first. X X X
Rocker/Tappet (T = done on ENGINE time, as opposed to ‘annual on a low hours engine)
a) Check tappet-valve clearance and adjust as necessary
(0.15mm ±0.05mm cold inlet and exhaust) (0.006in ±0.002in) T T T T
Record results
 MS7

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

Check (hr.)
Inspection Items
5 15 50 100 200
Throttle Valve
a) Inspect free movement of throttle lever.
X X X X
b) Inspect that throttle cable allows full travel of throttle lever.
c) Inspect throttle cable. Replace as necessary. X X
Spark Plugs
a) Renewal of spark plugs. X
Spark Plug Connectors
a) Verify security of connectors on both spark plug and ignition coils. X X X X
Compression Check
a) Inspect compression by differential pressure method. Record results.
- Leak test need to be done at least once a year X
- In case running leaded fuel, leak test required every 50Hr
 MS7

Maintenance Schedule for ULPower Aero Engines

Check (hr.)
Inspection Items
5 15 50 100 200
Engine Test Run
a) Start the engine and run to operating temperature.
Smoothly apply throttle to full power.
Check temperatures and pressures are within limits. Record oil pressure, fuel pressure and engine X X X X
speed (rpm).
Bring engine to idle speed. Record engine speed (rpm)
b) After engine test run, if replaced, re-torque oil-filter (15Nm) X X X X
c) After engine test run, inspect oil level and add oil as necessary to maximum mark. X X X X
d) After engine test run, adjust idle speed lever position if necessary. Record new engine idle speed. X X X X
General Note
a) All service instructions and service bulletins are complied with. X X X X X
 HTS1

In order to discover more about each task, click on the relevant link below

Visual inspection ECU Air Filter inspection

Oil Level /Replacement Fuel Filters
Engine/suspension Oil Change
/external parts Oil Filter

Spark Plugs Compression Engine Test Idle speed

Cylinder Heads Rocker/Tappet Throttle valve/cable /Connectors Check Run adjustment

Non-routine maintenance
 VS1

Start at one point and work systematically around the engine looking for evidence of interference
abrasion (where parts have rubbed on cowlings/hoses/etc) as well as signs of leaks of oil or combustion
gasses. Look for degradation in hoses and wires, security of senders and their connectors, etc. Pay
particular attention to the exhaust looking for cracks in material or welds. Check for damaged, broken or
missing springs/bolts/cotter pins/etc.

Heat damage may occur and is often first spotted by discolouration or changes in surface appearance.

Take your time, and take photos for reference of any items you want to monitor.

Correct any anomalies found, making appropriate references in the logbook.

 ECU1

The ‘old black ECU’ requires that you disconnect the connectors from ECU, check the contacts ECU-
side and connector side, make sure that they are clean and there is no oxidation, replace both if
necessary and re-connect the connectors to the ECU. This is NOT necessary on the RED ECU (see
picture left).

The RED ECU should not normally need the connectors opened and checked, however if there is a
connection issue you can check for corrosion there. If all is working well, it is probably best left closed.

The Air Pressure sender mounted inside the ECU is connected to a location where the pressure is as close as possible to the
AIR on the OUTSIDE of the air filter. Generally this is done with a small hose. If the hose is damaged or blocked it will affect
the mixture control of the engine. You may be able to check atmospheric pressure is reading correctly by using ULRead.
Experience showed that in many aircraft , a connection to the aircraft static lines has provided good results.
Ask your airframe manufacturer for details of the optimal location for this connection

If unsure of a clear line, disconnect the hose from the ECU and blow through, then reconnect.

CAUTION! NEVER BLOW INTO THE

PRESSURE SENDER PORT/LINE AS THIS MAY
DAMAGE THE SENDER INSIDE THE ECU.
 Tools Needed O1

Oil (Aeroshell 15W50 or Motul 300V 15W50 )

Oil Filter Funnels
S3141815 copper sealing ring Oil pan/receptacle
Filter Wrench
Filter socket Torque wrench (15Nm / 25Nm)

1. Carefully remove cowling and place a clean oil pan/receptacle ready to catch the old oil (make sure that
it is able to contain all of the oil drained).
2. Remove the magnetic drain plug (catch the copper sealing ring) and direct the old oil into the oil pan.
3. Inspect/clean the mag. plug (record findings). Replace the copper sealing ring , refit and torque to 25Nm.
4. Remove oil filter. Apply fresh oil to the seal of new oil filter. Install and torque to 15Nm.
5. Refill with correct grade and quantity of oil.
6. If you have an aerobatic engine, add 1 bottle of ULP teflon oil additive (only after 15 h – see schedule)
7. Cut old filter (without creating metal chips/fillings) and inspect filter mat. Record findings. Filter old oil from sump. Record
findings.

Oil Qty 4-cylinder 6-cylinder

(litres) CAUTION!! DO NOT change oil on a HOT engine. If
3 260/350i/iS you do warm the engine for quicker oil draining do
4 260/350iSA 390/520i/iS not handle oil above 40C/104F to avoid
burns/scalding.
5 390/520iSA
 AF1

The ULPower air filter is NOT a serviceable item. It is normally replaced at 200 hours, however, it may
require more frequent changes dependent on operational conditions.

It is not normally necessary to remove the filter for inspection. If you do remove the filter ensure that
it is correctly re-installed/replaced.

Look for signs of damage to the filter media and retaining mesh. Look for damage to the rubber
flange and ‘wiggle’ the end of the filter gently watching for ‘cracks’ or other damage.

Replace if necessary.

Record findings.
 FF1

ULPower engines have a ‘pre-filter’ installed at the entry to each fuel pump and a ‘fine filter’ after the
pumps and before the fuel rail.

Fuel Filters These are NOT serviceable filters. They are replaced after the first 15 hours, and then are a 200 hour (or
two year) replacement item. In dusty or adverse conditions more frequent changes may be required.

Simply remove the clips holding the filter in place and replace the filter itself.

Respect directions of flow and check for damage to hoses. Replace any damaged hoses.

Pay particular attention to any sensors (such as fuel pressure sensors) which may be attached to the fine
filter, depending on your installation.

REMEMBER: Pressurise the fuel system and check for leaks before attempting to start the engine.
 CH1

As part of a maintenance schedule you are asked to check the torque on FOUR of
the cylinder head bolts as a precautionary safety measure.

For each cylinder head there are SIX bolts which must remain torqued to ensure
that the head seals properly with the cylinder to avoid loss of combustion
pressure.

TWO of these bolts are not easy to get to (one under the rocker cover and one
behind the inlet manifold) and DO NOT normally need to be torque checked
during this operation.

As part of regular maintenance, check the torque on the FOUR easily accessible
cylinder head bolts. If these four are torqued correctly, there is no further action
required. If they are NOT then refer to your nearest ULPower dealer for
assistance.

The recommended torque check procedure is as follows:-.

 Tools Needed CH2

T063018 Torque Key Cylinder head

Torque wrench (36Nm)

Set the torque wrench to 36Nm and fit the

special tool T063018 Torque Key Cylinder
head (supplied with first service kit).

Insert the tool tip securely into the first cylinder

head bolt and check torque. Normally this will
result in a ‘click’ and NO movement of the bolt.

Repeat with the other three bolts in sequence.

If any bolt needs tightened contact your

nearest ULPower Aero Engine dealer for further
advice.

CAUTION: When checking torque, do not loosen first.

 Tools Needed TAP1

3mm & 5mm Allen Key 13mm ring spanner

Feeler Gauge (0.1/0.15/0.2mm) [O ring(s) S1100020]
Torque wrench (20Nm / 6Nm)
Checking the rocker/tappet clearance is a simple procedure that allows for adjustment of the correct valve opening and proper
functioning of your engine. It is also an early warning system to identify excessive wear and can be likened to an ECG (EKG) as
part of a medical examination of your engine, and the opportunity to adjust for any wear or bedding in that may occur.
In the early hours of operation, it is perfectly normal for adjustments to be needed. Over time, these adjustments should
become smaller and in many cases you may find it unnecessary to adjust at every service. All the same, checking and recording
findings provides insight to your engine as part of your planned maintenance.
Lock Nut
HOW DOES IT WORK? The PUSH ROD is moved by the camfollower as the cam
Adjusting lobe on the CAMSHAFT pushes it, moving one side of the rocker arm. The other
Screw side then pushes on the valve stem (either inlet or exhaust) to open for fuel/air to
go in or exhaust gasses to get out. The correct gapping allows for smooth and
Gap correct operations. Gapping must be done at when BOTH valves are closed
0.10-0.20mm between the rocker arm and the valve as shown left.

Valve Stem
CAUTION!! As part of this procedure you
Cam follower/ will be turning the propeller. Make sure
(tappet) the ignition switches, master and ECU are
all OFF before moving the prop by hand.
Camshaft
 TAP2

1. On a cold engine (>10C and <25C) remove all the valve covers. Make a note of which cover goes
where (you may use an indelible felt marker such as a ‘Sharpie’ to label the inside with the cylinder
number, after wiping the oil away)
Unscrew all three bolts on each valve cover with a 4mm Allen Key. Keep the nordlock washers in pairs.
You may need to gently ‘knock’ with a soft hammer the edge of the cover to release it. Do not damage
the gaskets.
Verify Rocker assembly, etc. has had proper lubrication. Look out for colour changes that could indicate
bad lubrication and/or over heating.
2. Turn the prop until one of the cylinders has both valves closed and ready for gapping .
We suggest starting with Cylinder 1. If the rockers at cylinder 1 are not even /equal , continue to turn
the prop. (the rockers on cylinder 2 should now have exhaust valve depressed /rocker arms tumbling)
You can double check if the valves are completely closed by looking if the locator marks are aligned at
the rear of the engine. (the air filter has been removed in this image for clarity)

At every half and full revolution of the engine (back to this position) ONE of the pistons will be ready
for gapping.
 TAP3

HINT: To check that you are ready for gapping on the cylinder you are looking at,
rock the prop back and forth. If the rockers DO NOT move on the cylinder you
are working on then you are ready for gapping. If they are moving then you are
NOT! (see videos of this at ULPOWER.NEWS)

3. Check clearance on each tappet by sliding a feeler gauge in.

If the 0.20mm slides in – there is too much clearance.

If the 0.10mm will NOT slide in - there is too little clearance.

If re-setting, set to 0.15mm.

HINT: If you lay out your feeler gauge as shown left you can check really quickly
with the 0.20 and 0.10 to make sure that the .10 DOES fit and the 0.20 DOESN’T
fit. In the ideal world you are looking for a snug 0.15mm fit.
 TAP4

HINT: The adjustment is VERY small, only a fraction of a turn on the Allen key, so try
not to make big movements and keep tools and hands stable.

4. To adjust clearance, place a 13mm ring spanner over the lock nut and a 5mm Allen
key in the adjustment screw. Keeping the Allen key very still, loosen the lock nut.

5. Place the 0.15mm feeler gauge in the gap and adjust using the Allen key. Then
HOLD the Allen key really steady whilst you ‘nip’ the locking nut in place WITH the
feeler gauge in situ. Do NOT over tighten. Just enough to hold it whilst you torque the
lock nut (see next step)
 TAP5

6. Using a Torque wrench tighten the lock nut to 20Nm (14.7 ft lbs).

7. Use the feeler gauge to check that the adjustment is correct AFTER
torqueing. If not correct, redo.

8. Turn the prop through 180/360 degrees from current position (anti-clockwise when facing the prop. on a standard engine)
to put the next cylinder ready for gapping.

Repeat until all cylinders have been checked/set. ALWAYS check that both rockers are not moving and not ‘tumbling’ before
gapping. Record clearances and adjustments.

HINT: If you have not done this Useful information

before ask an experienced
engineer/mechanic to assist you… Firing order 4 cylinder: 1 – 3 – 2 – 4
DO NOT OVER-TORQUE!!! Firing order 6 cylinder: 1 – 4 – 5 – 2 – 3 – 6
 TAP6

9. Before closing valve covers ensure that the the O-ring

is in good condition (replace if necessary), that it is
completely seated in it’s groove, in the correct position
and that the surface is clean. Apply a little clean engine
oil to O-ring if dry. O ring

10. Replace rocker covers to the relevant cylinders and tighten valve cover cap
screws M5x16mm to 6 Nm (4.5 ft lbs). Check the Nordlock washer for damage . If
ok , reinstall them. Nordlock washers are in pairs and the side with the larger steps
are faced towards each other. Bring all three screws to contact before torqueing .
CAUTION: When the same tappets are in need of adjustment every time
maintenance is performed, it can be indicative of a developing problem. Contact
your nearest ULPower dealer who may inspect the valve train for abnormal
wear. Do check for proper lubrication and clogged oil lines.
 THT1

Check that your throttle cable has no signs of fraying, kinks or compromised travel. Ensure that
the installation allows full and free movement and that all attachments are appropriate for
your installation.

There are many different installations for throttles. You may want to take a ‘reference picture’
of how it should be for your records and to compare to during servicing.
 Tools Needed SPK1

Anti -seize paste (e.g. Wacker P12)

16mm Spark plug socket (with rubber insert)
Torque wrench (21Nm)
New Spark Plugs (E070502)

As in any modern automobile, sparkplugs do NOT normally need cleaning. It is

generally better to REPLACE spark plugs unless there is an exceptional reason to
clean them.
(If you must, use a plastic brush and solvent. Dry well and inspect before re-use at
your own risk.)

These spark plugs consist of 3 electrodes round the core. The electrode gap cannot be
changed. Do not try to bend the electrodes!
Note: Operation with leaded fuels (e.g. AVGAS 100LL) can result in increased wear of the
spark plugs. Reduce renewal intervals accordingly.

NOTE: Only use original ULPower spark

plugs. Use of incorrect spark plugs may
result in ignition problems, electrical
disturbance and other engine damage.
 SPK2

1. Unplug ignition leads (noting positions) and remove old spark plugs
with 16mm Plug Socket
2. Before inserting new spark plugs back into the cylinder head, apply an
anti-seize compound on the thread – avoiding the last two threads
towards the electrode. (shown right)
3. Screw in spark plugs with fingers to seat.

4. Using a Plug Socket (with rubber insert to protect plug) tighten to 21 Nm.

5.Refit ignition leads to the

correct plugs. Check connectors
are secure.

HINT: Pack the anti-seize

paste into a small syringe to
apply it more precisely and
economically.
 DCT1
Tools needed :
tester consisting of two separate pressure gauges
pressure regulator
calibrated restrictor orifice (0,040” / 1 mm)
an on/off valve (see schematic drawing).
A source of compressed air (minimum 100psi /7 bar)

The leak test should be done after the engine has run to operating temperature.
Use exactly the same procedure with each cylinder and each time you check your
compression.
Compression Keep accurate records of compression reading per cylinder
Check Make sure master switch and ignition are OFF when performing work on the engine.

Remove all valve covers ,one sparkplug from each cylinder and, for safety, remove each ignition lead
from all plugs. Rotate the prop by hand (anti-clockwise when standing in front of propeller) until
cylinder 2 is exactly on top position while both rocker arms are tumbling. Now cylinder No.1 will be on
compression. You can verify this by moving the prop back a quarter turn and then placing your thumb
over the spark plug hole and feeling the pressure build-up while bringing the prop back to TDC. Now
install the 14mm threaded adaptor (normally supplied with the compression tester) in the spark plug
hole of the cylinder to be tested (Cyl.1).

Close air shutoff valve and make sure to have a firm grip on the tip of
one of the prop blades before connecting the system to your source of
compressed air
 DCT2

Move the prop slightly away from TDC by turning clockwise. Adjust the pressure regulator to about 20
psi and slowly open the air shutoff valve. Carefully rotate the prop in the turning direction (anti-
clockwise) against the 20 psi pressure towards TDC until you feel a "flat spot" or rapid loss of turning
resistance. If you go too fast, back up beyond top dead center and try again. It is important to reach
TDC with the prop turning in the normal direction of rotation, not while backing the prop up since
Compression this would unseat the piston rings. The piston rings must be at the bottom of their lands in the piston
Check with the piston at the top of its travel. Now make sure you have the prop tip securely held. This is a
good time to have a second person help you. The air shutoff valve should be open and slowly adjust
the pressure regulator to show exactly 80 psi on the pressure regulator gauge.

CAUTION !
Letting the prop move in either direction beyond TDC will allow it to start rotating ;
severely injuring the person who was holding it .
 DCT3

Gently move the prop tip back and forth, just a tiny amount.
Watch the cylinder pressure gauge. (double check that regulator pressure gauge is at 80psi )
Write down the peak steady pressure.
Again, this will be while moving the prop in the normal direction of rotation.

Compression Lower pressure regulator and close off air shutoff valve.
Check Disconnect system from cylinder.

Turn prop in normal direction half a turn and repeat test with next cylinder in following order (1-3-2-4).

Normal differential pressure are between 60 and 78 over 80

The numbers of the 4 cylinders should be fairly close to each other (e,g 76/80, 74/80, 73/80 and 75/80.
Cylinder reading below 60/80 indicate a problem.

Leak compression tests needs to be done on a regularly base in order to have a good idea of the health of your engine.
Compare each test and make your conclusion based on several tests conducted over a reasonable period of time.
 DCT4

What if I have 1 low cylinder value ?

Start the engine and run it on the ground until warm. Test it again.
If it is still low, use a length of garden hose as a "stethoscope" and listen at the exhaust of the ailing
cylinder. If you hear a hissing escape of compressed air here, you have an exhaust valve that is not
Compression
seating.
Check
Similarly, listen carefully with the "stethoscope" at the intake, throttle/air box.
A hissing sound here may indicate leakage under the intake valve.

If neither of these areas is leaking significantly, listen at the breather or oil dipstick/filler tube. A leak
in this area is indicative of ring blow-by. This could be ring wear, barrel wear or scoring, or all the ring
gaps may be lined up.
Hissing between cylinder cooling fins is bad news, possibly a cracked cylinder.
Valve leakage is the most commonly found cause of a low cylinder.
 HINT: When doing the engine run make sure to LISTEN to the engine ER1

during start-up and when running. For example, leave the headset off
during the start-up, and then lift ‘one ear’ to listen to the engine when
running at different speeds. This can be good habit as a pilot too!
The minimum requirement is to ‘run the engine’ and check for full power / idle and check temps and pressures.
However, this is a great time to check all start-up systems too…

For example, a simple way to check ignition and fuel pumps are ‘able to work alone’ should they have to:-
1. Start engine with ignition 1 and main fuel pump
2. Start engine with ignition 2 and main fuel pump
3. Start engine with BOTH ignitions and auxiliary fuel pump
4. Start engine with BOTH ignitions and main fuel pump
a) Start the engine and run to operating temperature.
Smoothly apply throttle to full power.
Check temperatures and pressures are within limits. Record oil pressure, fuel pressure and engine speed (rpm).
Bring engine to idle speed. Record engine speed (rpm)
b) After engine test run, if replaced, re-torque oil-filter to 15Nm
c) After engine test run, inspect oil level and add oil as necessary to maximum mark.
d) After engine test run, inspect for oil and/or fuel leaks
e) After engine test run, adjust idle speed lever position if necessary. Record new engine idle speed.
 ER2

Idle speed can only be tested when engine is at operating temperature.

Apply a little throttle so idle speed is at least 1000 rpm during warm-up.
The throttle lever stop (1) is factory set to a position that should correspond to a warm engine idle speed of approx. 800
rpm. If the warm idle speed of the engine is unsatisfactory, adjust as follows:

Idle speed is too low: Switch off engine and master relay while adjusting idle speed
While engine is running apply throttle to the desired engine rpm.
Set friction to keep throttle in position and turn off engine. CAUTION : HOT ENGINE
Loosen throttle lever stop screws (3) with a 2.5mm Allan Key and move throttle lever stop (1)
towards the left until it touches the throttle lever (2).
Tighten throttle lever stop screws (3) to maximum 3 Nm (2.25 ft lbs )
Running the engine at less than 700 rpm will cause damage to the engine.

Idle speed is too high:

Verify if the throttle lever (2) is completely against the throttle lever stop (1).
If not, the stops of aircraft throttle system are not set correctly. Adjust according to aircraft
manual or manufacturer.
If OK, loosen the throttle lever stop screws (3) with a 2.5mm Allan Key and move throttle lever
stop (1) a few mm towards the right. Tighten throttle lever screws (3) and test engine idle.
Idle rpm will probably be too low; readjust as described above.Dia 15
Don’t leave throttle lever stop screws (3) loose while engine is running
 NRM1

Alternator Flange Change O rings in Change of oil seal at the

Replacement the oil return tubes alternator of the engine

Change oil seal at the Propeller flange

propeller side of the engine Replacement
Routine maintenance
 Tools Needed AFR1

T063002 Alternator removal tool set

Breaker bar(s) Allen Key Spanners
Torque Wrench (280Nm/10Nm)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Unscrew the 8 cap screws with an
Allen key to remove alternator fan and
starter ring gear. (NB Keep each pair of
NordLock washers under the cap
screws together.)

2. Keep starter ring gear and fan facing

in the same direction as it was
assembled.

4. Hold the alternator flange in place while unscrewing the

3. Attach the alternator removal central bolt. Note that the bolt has left hand thread and so you
tool to the flange with 4 bolts have to turn it clockwise to undo it! Keep the bolt aside.
M6X16. (included in the set)
 AFR2

5. Remove the holder tool and insert the bolt that came with the tools. Remember you have to
turn it anticlockwise to screw in the left hand thread. It does not have to be tight; just hand screw
it in.

6. Attach the alternator flange pulley removal tool with the 4 bolts M6 X 16 and wind off the alternator
flange by turning the bolt (clockwise).

7. Unscrew the central bolt (clockwise). HINT: Take your time and be ready to manage a magnetic
force when you are working on this. Place all items on a
clean sheet and keep loose magnetic materials away
from the work area (nuts/bolts/washers/etc!)
If you are now changing the
rear oil seal CLICK HERE
 AFR3

NOTE: Make sure you have cleaned all

surfaces before applying Loctite!

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE NOTE: You will have to turn the alternator a bit
so that the flat faces on the flange and
A. Put some
crankshaft mate and it will ‘click’ in. Do not
Loctite 266
hammer the flange over the crankshaft; just
(RED) on the
wind it up with the central bolt (anticlockwise).
central bolt
(27) thread.

B. Put a couple of drops of Loctite 573

(GREEN) on the face of the (new)
alternator flange and spread using a
clean spreader to seal against oil leaks.
C. Slide the (new) alternator flange
over the crankshaft. Be careful not to
get your fingers stuck as the magnets
will attract the flange to the alternator
stator.
 AFR4

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (cont.)

D. Torque the central bolt to 280Nm

(anticlockwise) while holding the
flange with the holder tool as used to
unscrew the bolt in step 3 & 4

E. Remove the holder tool and collect all 8 cap F. Reassemble the alternator ring gear and
screws together with the NordLock washers. The alternator fan with the cap screws and
washers are in pairs and the side with the larger NordLock washers.
steps are faced towards each other.
Torque the cap screws to 10Nm.
 NOTE: Use the latest Parts ORO1

catalogue as a guide and for torque

values. Here we have pictures
from a UL350 parts catalogue.

1. Unscrew the 3 bolts (11) to remove the valve cover (10)

2. Remove the O-rings (9)
3. Turn prop until rocker arms are in neutral position (both valves closed)
4. Unscrew the 3 bolts (12)
5. Remove the complete rocker axe (13) with rockers and adjusting screws
6. Glide both pushrods (7) out of the tubes (Mark them to know which pushrod
was on which side (left or right), orientation - and from which cylinder)
 ORO2

7. Use screwdriver to bend the locking plate (7). Then unscrew screw (8) and remove locking plate (7).
8. Now you can slowly slide out the tubes (5) of the crankcase and remove the O-ring (6) from the tube (side engine casing )
9. Take out the tube completely from the cylinder head.
10. Carefully clean the seat (hole) in the crankcase and cylinder head.
11. Remove second O-ring from the tube
12. Install the new O-ring on the ‘rocker’ end of the tube
13. Slide the tube (side without O-ring first) through the cylinder head hole
14. Install the second O-ring on the ‘crankcase’ end of the tube
15. Put some sealing silicone (S700001 Elring n° 030.792) on both O-rings and glide them carefully into position on the
crankcase and cylinder head.
 ORO3

16. Use a soft hammer and 19mm diameter ‘driver’ to gently knock the tube slowly to the bottom its crankcase seat.
17. Repeat for the second tube
18. Reinstall the locking plate (7) and screw (8) torque to 1.5Nm (or latest value)
19. Bend the locking plate to lock the screw (replace if damaged)
20. Glide both push rods (7) into their respective tubes
21. Re-install the rocker axe (13) assembly ensuring orientation (flat side rocker axe = cylinder head side)
22. Apply a drop of Loctite 266 to the threads and torque the 3 bolts (12) to 12Nm (or latest value)
23. Check condition (replace if necessary)and then carefully reinstall the valve cover seal sealing O-ring (9)
24. Check rocker tappet for valve clearance
25. Reinstall valve cover (10) with 3 screws (11) to 6Nm (or latest value)
 OSA1

FIRST: Follow the ‘Removal of alternator flange procedure Parts needed

CLICK HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS S2506207 Oil seal Viton 50 x 62 x 7
S700001 Sealing silicone Elring n°030.792
S1066020 O-ring viton 66 x 2
Mark the position of the wires coming out of the
alternator stator.
Tools Needed
T063002 Alternator removal tool set
1. Unscrew the 3 bolts M6 to remove the T063007 Rear oil seal installation tool
alternator stator (30A) Allen Key
Torque Wrench (280Nm/10Nm)
Or unscrew the 4 bolts M5 to remove the Breaker bar(s)
alternator stator (50A) Spanners
 OSA2

2. To remove the alternator stator spacer, install

the alternator flange pulley removal tool and fix it
to the spacer.
For the 30a stator use 3 bolts M6 x 60
For the 50a stator use 4 bolts M5 X 60
Don’t forget to mark the position from the spacer
in the back plate
3. Remove the seal S2506207 from the spacer. Clean the spacer and the
engine back plate carefully. (Remove all old silicone).

3a. Clean the crankshaft surface

where the seal will slide over during
installation to avoid damage to the NOTE Make sure that the seal is
seal. installed the correct way around!
4. Install the new seal.
CAUTION: DO NOT damage the
seal during installation.
 OSA3

5. Put some sealing silicone (S700001)

on the surface that will be in contact
with the engine mount plate

6. Install special tool T063007 over the crankshaft gear and put some
oil on the external surface. (shown left)

7. Slide the spacer with seal over the tool until the spacer is in the
correct place. (shown right)

8. Remove the tool and put some sealing silicone (S700001) on each of the 3 bolts M6 (4 bolts M5) and tighten them to 10Nm

FINALLY: Follow the ‘Installation of alternator flange’ procedure

CLICK HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS
 OSP1

Parts needed Tools Needed

BE010509 Thrust bearing mount (only when T063006 Prop flange holder
engine serial number is below 120000) 40mm socket
Allen Key 3mm
S2607510 Oil seal Viton 60 x 75 x 10 Torque Wrench (300Nm)
S1052020 O-ring Viton 50x1.78 Breaker bar(s)
E021506 Thrust bearing disc Spanners
E021504 Thrust bearing retention ring

S700001 Sealing silicone Elring n° 030.792

Loctite 542, 266

FIRST: Follow the ‘Propeller Flange Replacement Procedure’ Steps 1-5

CLICK HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS
 OSP2

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Unscrew the 8 retaining bolts (4)

2. Carefully tap thrust bearing mount (3) with a rubber or

soft nylon hammer to loosen the thrust bearing from the
casing
(NOTE: sealing silicone has been used during the assembly
of the engine.)

3. Remove the thrust bearing mount (3) from the engine.

 OSP3

4. Remove the thrust

bearing disc (16) from
the crankshaft

5. Take the retention ring (7) from the

crankshaft

6. Take the O-ring (6) out of the groove

in the crankshaft
 OSP4

7. Carefully clean the

crankcase and thrust bearing
house until all sealing silicone
is gone.

8. Carefully remove the old seal (2)

without damaging the aluminium
housing.

8a) Smear a little Loctite 5910 onto

the outside of the seal and install the
new seal (Part number S2607510)
(2) using a soft plastic/nylon hammer

NOTE Make sure that the seal is

installed this way around!
 OSP5

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Apply clean oil (you can use the same oil as you use in the engine) on
the outer and inner side of the retention ring.

2. Slide the retention ring into the seal from the ‘prop flange side’

NOTE Install the retention ring from the

same direction as shown!
 OSP6

3. Apply sealing silicone (S700001

Elring n° 030.792 ) onto the
housing mating surface

4. Clean the crankshaft and O-ring groove.

5. Oil the O-ring and carefully install

NOTE Always install a NEW O-ring

 OSP7

6. Install the new thrust

bearing disc in the 9. Push the retention ring over the O-ring
housing

7. Push the ring

10. Re-install the 8 bolts and torque to
against the collar
10Nm – NOTE: there is no Loctite applied
to the threads.

8. Carefully slide the

housing and retention
ring over the bearings FINALLY: Follow the ‘Propeller Flange
and crankshaft
Replacement Procedure’ from 6.
CLICK HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS
 Tools Needed PFR1

T063006 Prop flange holder

40mm socket
Allen Key 3mm / *2,5 mm
Torque Wrench (300Nm) / Breaker bar(s)
Spanners
1. Unscrew the M6 screw using a
3mm Allen key. *M5 / 2,5 MM
* For engines with serial number above 193801
4. Hold the prop flange in place whilst
unscrewing (right hand thread) the
central bolt (40mm hex socket)
2. Using an M6 bolt, remove the
locking plate as shown
5. Pull off the prop shaft flange from
the crankshaft

3. Attach the propeller flange If you are now changing the front oil seal CLICK HERE
holder (T063006) to the prop
flange with M14 bolts
6. Carefully clean the crankshaft paying
particular attention to the front face
shown here
 PFR2

9. Carefully clean the bolt,

especially cleaning the flat
7. Carefully clean the prop contact surface shown here.
flange paying particular
attention to the flat mating Apply a small amount of
surface face shown here grease to the flat surface AND
the thread of the bolt.

10. By hand, screw the

bolt (right hand thread)
8. Carefully align then into the crankshaft as far
slide the prop flange over as possible.
the splines of the
crankshaft.
If not using the ULP standard
flange, don’t forget to install
propeller reduction (2)
 PFR3

13. Place the locking plate over the hex top of

11. Attach the propeller the bolt. Find out if the existing M6 / M5 hole in
flange holder (T063006) the locking plate correspond with the M6 / ø 5
to the prop flange with hole in the flange. If not, move the ring through
M14 bolts 60° (one flat) on the bolt.
13 a. IF the M6 holes do not match, drill a hole ø5
12. Torque the bolt to 300 through the locking plate and cut M6 thread until
Nm while holding the just touching the bottom of the hole.
prop flange. (right hand *IF the holes don’t match , use a 5 mm drill to
thread) center the hole in the hole of the locking plate (+/-
2 mm depth). Drill a hole ø 4,25 through the locking
plate (till the drill touches the steel bolt)and cut
M5 thread until just touching the bottom of the
hole.
14. Reinstall M6x15 / *M5 X 16 grub screw until
head is about 0.5mm below surface, using Loctite
243 and lock the screw again by punching 2
dimples * For engines with serial number above 193801
Revisions

Revision 2.1 - September 2019

Removal of the prop flange check at 5 / 15 hours
Add extra info into the prop flange removal procedure (m5 for engines with serial number above 193801