Fabric

A manufactured assembly of fiber and/or yarn produced by interlacing, interloping, interbondingor

intraloopinghaving substantial surface area which is thousand times in relation to it’s thickness and have
sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength.
Types of Fabric

Plain Weave Fabric

Satin/sateen Weave Fabric

Knitted Fabric (Produced by Interlooping)

chet

Non Woven Fabric (Produced by Interbonding)

Braid Fabric (Produced by Intralooping /Intertwisting)
LOOM:
Loomismachineordevicewhichisusedtoproducewovenfabric.Itisthecentralpointofwholeprocessofclothproducti
on.
It is a device used to weave cloth. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to
facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but
the basic function is the same.
CHRONOLOGICAL/ HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OFLOOM
Damask,Tapestry.
1.Verticalloom:
2.Pitloom.
3.Frameloom.

4.Chittarangan/ Semi-automatic loom:Take up automatic but let offmanually.

5.Hattersley loom.
6.Natural Source/ Ordinary power loom: a) Water wheel was until195
b)Steamengine
c)Dieselengine
7.Electric power loom: 1st power loom1784

1st weaving mill with power loom1789

a)Large singlemotor
b)Large groupmotor
c)Individual motor in 1930
8.Modern loom:
a)Projectile
b)Rapier
c)AirJet
d)WaterJet
e)Multiphase

Loom motions: There are three types ofloom motions:-

1.Primary
2.Secondary.
3.Tertiary.

Primary motions are: a) Shedding b)Picking c) Beating.

Secondary motions are: a)Take-up b)Let-off
Tertiary motions are: a)Warp stop b)Weft stop c)Reed stop.
Drafting: The process of passing yarn through the drop wire is called drafting.
Drawing: The process of passing yarn through the heald eye is called drawing.
Denting: The process of passing yarn through the reed is Called denting.
SHEDDING:
Dividation of warp threads into two parts for insertion of weft threads is called
shed and mechanism of shed is called shedding.it isthe first primary motion
ofweaving.
Types ofshed:

eshed

Shedding Mechanism
Thesheddingmechanismseparatesthewarpthreadsintotwolayersordivisionstofo
rmatunnelknownasshed.Theshedprovidesroomforpassageoftheshuttle.
Types of Shedding Mechanism:
1.Tappet Shedding Mechanism:
a. Positive tappet shedding
b. Negative tappet shedding
2.Dobby shedding Mechanism:
a. Positive dobby shedding
b. Negative dobby shedding
3. Jacquard Shedding Mechanism:
a. Single lift and single cylinder(SLSC)
b. Double lift and single cylinder(DLSC)
c. Double lift and double cylinder(DLDC)
BASIC SHEDDING MECHANISMS:
1.Paddle/ treadle loom: handloom

2.Tappet shedding mechanism

3.Dobby shedding mechanism

4.Jacquard shedding mechanism

5.Combined shedding

TAPPETSHEDDING
A type of cam which transforms a rotary motion into a reciprocating motion in
rods and levers by sliding contact is tappet.
When the receives a series of lifts, with intervals of rest and thus forms a shed
called tappet
Scope of tappet shedding:
Maximum capacity 14 heald shafts
CONSTRUCTION OF TAPPETSHEDDING:
The figure shows a negative tappet shedding mechanism. A pair of tappets A and
B are fixed to the bottom shaft C at 180 degrees to each other. Two treadle levers
D and E are connected to the loom back-rail by a bracketF.
The bracket acts as a fulcrum for the levers. The two treadles have teeth to carry
the lamb rods G and H respectively. Two heald shafts J and K are connected to the
lamb rods. A top reversing roller shaft Q carries two rollers of different diameters.
The roller of small diameter N is connected to a leather strap L to which the front
heald shaft J is connected. The roller P of large diameter is connected to a leather
strap M to which the back heald shaft K is connected. The tappets A and B touch
the anti-friction bowls or followers R and S respectively, which are fixed to the
treadle levers. The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U through which the war p
threads pass X is the war p sheet and Y is the cloth. The odd ends are passed
through one heald shaft while the even ends are passed through the other heald
shaft
TYPES OFTAPPET:
Negative tappet: in a tappet shedding mechanism if the tappet controls only one
movement either an upward or downward movement of heald shaft, then the
shedding is known as negative tappet shedding.
Positive tappet: : in a tappet shedding mechanism if the tappet controls both the
upward and downward movement of heald shaft, then the shedding is known as
positive tappet shedding.
Picking
•Picking: Picking is the second primary motion in the weaving. It is the action of
filling/ insertion of the weft through the shed from one edge of fabric to the other
edge.
•The object of picking is to insert the weft yarn through the warp sheet during
weaving.
•Types of picking:
1. Conventional picking mechanism or negative picking mechanism
2. Unconventional picking mechanism or positive picking mechanism
•Conventional Picking mechanism –types
1.Overpick mechanism –Cone over pick mechanism
2.Under pick mechanism
a)Side-lever under pick mechanism
b)Side-shaft under pick mechanism
c)Cone under pick mechanism
Over Pick Under Pick
1.Armpositionisabovetheshuttlebox. 1.Armpositionisbelowtheshuttlebox
.
2.Higherloomspeed. 2.Lowerloomspeed.
3.Lesspowerrequired. 3.Morepowerrequired.
4.Worksmoresmoothly. 4.Workslesssmoothly.
5.Lesscleanmechanism. 5.Morecleanmechanism.
6.Lessdirectaction. 6.Moredirectaction.
7.Comparativelygentleinpickingaction. 7.Comparativelyharshinpickingacti
on.
8.Lesswearandtear. 8.Morewearandtear
Cone over pick mechanism
.
Working flowchart of tappet cone over picking mechanism:
With the rotation of loom/bottom shaft, picking tappet or cam rotates ↓In
revolving, picking tappet nose strikes the cone shaped antifriction roller on the stud
and partly rotates the picking shaft and the picking lever/stitch ↓ The picking
arm/lever moves from right side to left side of the loom. It will give angular
movement which causes the picker to move inward with sufficient velocity to drive
the shuttle across the loom ↓ When the picker strikes the shuttle, the shuttle moves
into the open shed through race board ↓Picking is done ↓ The spring causes the
picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of a pick.
Beat-up
•Beating upis the third and final primary motion in weaving; it performs driving
the last pick of weft to the fell of the cloth.
•The object of the beatupmechanism is to push the last laid weft threadinto

the fell of the cloth by means of areed.

Types of Beating Up:
1.According to number of beat-up:
1.Single beat-up.
2.Double beat-up.
2.According to beat-up mechanism:
1.Conventional beat-up.
2.Cam beat-up.
3.According to movement of reed:
1.Real beat-up.
2.False beat-up.
4.According to Fell of the cloth:
1.Fixed fell beat-up.
2.Moving fell beat-up.