Skurdu District: The Road To Majestic Mountains

Travel is not just roaming on the road and looking around in a distant city while
staying in posh hotel. It is not leisure. Travel means responsibility, care and of
course learning. Creating opportunity is yet another aspect which one can later
implement in your own life and in his own country.

When I booked our tickets for me and Ayesha in mid- October for a week trip to
Skardu from Karachi, I didn’t had all this in my mind. But the passion element was
definitely there. I had been to Kashmir and Khusdar a couple of years ago. But this
one was totally different. Geographically it is a very diverse Northern region of
Pakistan possessing crystal clear lakes, high altitude Plateau, snow capped peaks
and majestic World famous mountains etc. But also it is the most natural disaster-
prone region and seismically active to landslides and Earth quacks.

Map of North Pakistan showing Gilgit- Baltistan region and around

Few interesting features of our (me and Ayesha) recent trip to the District of
Skardu were:

Day 1: Flew from Karachi to Islamabad in mid- October 2020.

The new Islamabad airport building is very impressive as compared to any
developed countries in Asia and Europe. We enjoyed free time in Islamabad.

Day 2: Flew from Islamabad to the District of Skardu the next morning

The aerial view of the Northern region was fantastic. Viewed icy peaks of Nanga
Parbat (8125 m/ ) on the left and Rakaposhi ( 7788m /25,551 ft ) on the right.

Nearby another peak was looking like a huge monster widening its strong jaws to
swallow its prey passing nearby.

Photo 1: Aerial view of an icy peaks Photo 2: Aerial view of Nanga Parbat
looking like a monster’s widely opened jaws

The scene reminded me of James Wilton’s novel ‘The Lost Horizon’, which
narrates about an aircraft crash landing near a river bed. The survivors were taken
to a beautiful valley nearby. It was the same valley probably turned into a resort
in Skardu, called Shangri-La , a Chinese word meaning ‘Heaven on Earth’. It was
our destination on the last night in the District of Skardu.

Within an hour we arrived at the Skardu airport.

 The airplane had to squeeze between the chains of peaks to carry its tourists and
mountaineers safe and sound. Hence prefer to check the weather forecast before
the flight.

Photo: Skardu Airport is surrounded by the Korakoram range all around

Photo: The Parking lot of the airplane. It serves for only one flight each day.

A local trained driver guide, Ali was there in his 4WD to give us the ‘Pick and drop’
Service. We bought a wifi package with a local SIM from a mobile shop in Skardu
Bazaar to have good access to internet. You can book a taxi on arrival as well.
 Photo: The Skardu Bazaar is good enough to facilitate tourists and trekkers on request

In Skardu, our temporary home was Concordia Motel.

The Motel
otel was in a valley, surrounded by mountain
mountains all around. From our balcony
on the 4th floor, we can see kids playing with their little lambs on the rocky hill
top. The
he whole scene was very picturesque.

Photo : The scenery from the window of our room in Motel Concordia, Skardu

An average Motel may have a standby generator, cooked food & wifi facility, but for limited time only.

After having tea, we head for our trip to the city of Skardu in the 4WD.
4WD
The PTDC motel was hardly at ten minutes drive from our Motel. Till 2018 it was a
popular destination but
ut then sadly it was offered on sale and got deserted since
years. Adjacent to PTDC motel was a Museum.
The K2 Museum houses precious photos of the trekking history of the World
famous gigantic Peaks and the valleys surrounding them. For example Mt Everest,
K2 & Broad Peak etc.
Interestingly at the entrance stands the first ever base camp of the Italian climber
Lino Lacedelli, presented to the Govt
Govt. of Pakistan in 1953 as a souvenir.

(Photo: The first base camp of the Italian climber found by the archeologists at K2 )

Next stop was the relics of ‘‘Buddha Rock’.

Photo: The Manthol Budha Rock, Skardu

The granite Manthal Buddha RockRock, dates back to 8th century. It sites deep in the
mountains near a village called Manthal, about 3km from the Sadpara Road in
Skardu. The rock had a sketch of meditating Buddha surrounded by some of his
disciples. There are also a few old scrip
scriptt writings engraved on it, worth visiting.
The road to the relics was very bumpy and dumpy. We felt pretty bad that the
route to the relics of international fame was under such negligence.

Next stop was The Kharpocho fort.

The Kharpocho Fort is at ten minutes drive from the Rock. The 16th century fort
was built by Gen. Zorawar Singh of Dogra Rajput for Maha raja Gulab Singh, lied
at the top of the hill. The narrow route was very scenic but quite adventurous.

Photo : Kharpocho fort, Skardu District

At certain points we had to be very vigilant and a skilful climber to go up.

The view point on the hill was serene and amazing.

Photo : The hilly road to Khapocho fort on the top in Skardu and the route of the River Indus.

The picturesque organic village is on the backside of this range at about 45 minutes hill walk.
It’s a very remote dwelling of farmers and devoid of any basic facility and transportation.
Skardu is surrounded by Korakoram and Himalayan mountain ranges. On our left
was Korakoram range, enchanting with the main artery, the he River Indus
Indu flowing
deep down the valley, where as on the right, tthe wheat fields were looking
amazing with the bundles of the barn in the middle. The groves of Orchids with
their long shadows on the ground were making the scenery very phenomenal.
The autumn, festival of change of color of leaves, was round the corner.

Photo: The scenery

ry is like a beautiful painting.

I kept looking around. On the misty far end, the backdrop of the Himalayan ranges
with its icy peaks was looking like a framed pencil sketch, sharp and eye catching.

After the sunset we drove back to the motel through the Skardu Bazar
azar. Had a
view of The Skardu University campus
campus, on the left. Ali happily told us about his
younger brother, in BSC with main subjects Life Science, food and agriculture.

Skardu University is all about Opportunities and Possibilities.

Photo: The Korakorum International University Campus

It was 7pm. Our first day trip was over.

We were feeling very tired and want

wanted to have a hot bath asap. The Motel
M rooms
were warm and welcoming. A hot shower took away all our tiredness.
tiredness Soon the
dinner was served in the room
room.

Photo: Naan and ‘mutt

‘mutton karahi’ were tasty delicious

A cup of hot coffee on top was a luxury

luxury. Soon
oon we were in the valley of dreams
drea
wandering in ‘Deosai’.

Day 3: The trip to the Sadpara lake and majestic Deosai Plateau.

We took an early start and passed through the streets of Skardu valley including
Aliabad and Hassan
san colony. Saw a few shining faces crossing the road carefully.
Glad to see that COVID-19
19 couldn’t keep kids away from their schools. We also
passed by the middle school in that street.

Photo: View of Skardu valley from Korakoram range

 Photo: Shining faces of kids from Aliabad

Photo showing Building of the Middle School in Skardu valley and hairy yak

Each little family had wheat fields, kitchen garden & live stock of their own.

The winter season was on its way. Aliabad was serene, calm and lively with a few
grocery shops and a ‘chai khana’ opened. Growing wheat and storing it for harsh
winters for the whole family is a priority. The hairy skinned yaks and sheep could
be seen grazing lazily where ever we go.

The route to the lake was asphalted and hardly 9km away from the city of Skardu.
Yet it was narrower in places and without any guard rails on the edge. The scene
got very dramatic as we go up and down all along the hilly ranges.
Soon we were able to see the turquoise blue waters of Satpara para Lake.
Lake The lake is
at an elevation of 2,636 m// 8,
8,650 feet) above the sea level. It is among one of the
hidden pearls of Gilgit- Baltistan
Baltistan, formed as a result of streams coming down the
hills by melting of icy planes and peaks of the Deosai Plateau. The other end of
the lake, where the dam is built, suppli
supplies
es water to the city of Skardu.

Photo: the eye catching view of icy peaks and the Satpara lake

Photo : The
he Picturesque Sadpara Lake with its turquoise blue water mirroring the KK range

In and around the valleys on Korakoram High way (KKH) herding is the practice of
caring for roaming livestock over a large area.
 Photo: Herd crossing at the Sadpara Road on the hill

Day3, 11.00 am: On the way to the World’s 2nd highest Plateau Deosai

Soon the High Way got deserted and we felt as if we were the only tourists on the
road heading to the World second highest plateau, The Deosai , where no one
goes. The Korakoram Highway (KKH) became more winding and narrower.

Photo: Heading towards ‘Noman’s land’ or to ‘the land of Giants’

There was a variety of scenery as we go up high up to thousands of feet and then

down again to the valleys, very hard to express in words. People having heart
problems may suffer suffocated on such heights. But we were ok.

The River Indus was with us all along the way, getting wider in vast valleys and
breaking up into number of streams while crossing the mountain regions making
a lot of noise while gushing down the narrow ridges.
Photo: The River Indus widens as it enters in an open vista

Photo: The crimson yellow orchids colors the scene wherever you go all along the KKH
 Photo: The scary incident, the panic created as a result of a land slide on KKH.
KKH

No wonder once itt was a popular saying that

‘Only
nly fools can go to Deosai’.

Our excitement rose higher as we left the Chillum Chowki which checks the ID of
tourist and mountaineers and give them suitable advice where necessary.

Photo: Chillum Chowki, check point to enter the Deosai Pleatu

Normally 4WD & jeeps are allowed to pass through the chillum chowki to avoid any road block.
It was the last week of October with winter season on its way. For the first time
visitors like me and Ayesha, it was very hard to believe that we were standing at
the starting point of ‘The Deosai Plateau’ at an elevation of 4,114 m above the
sea level. A sparkle of comment made by my sister Rabia rose into my mind.

“ You can explore Hunza, Gilgit and Skardu in 8 to 10 days, but you never know what the
weather and road conditions would be.”

I quickly shut my eyes and thanked Allah the Great to give us such a golden
opportunity to visit this wonderful part of the land.

Photos: The Starting point of ‘Deosai Plateau’

And within a few minutes, I heard the echo of Ayesha. Where was she? I looked
around and found her standing on a hill nearby. She was thrilled with emotions
and saying.
‘ Buddies! Can you hear me? I’m in Northern Pakistan. So far we had been to the most of
Skardu, seen the Budha Rock, had touched the fairy tale turquoise colored waters of Sadpara
Lake, adventured safely through KKH all the way’… she pause and looked around ‘ and now I
am standing on this hill in the World’s 2 nd largest plateau extending from the Korakoram to
Himalayan Mountains upto thousands of miles. I can even see the Mighty peaks of Nanga
Parbat from here with Saleem. Can you believe it! ’
 Photo: Ayesha in thrill on the hill in Deosai Plateau

Luckily I managed to catch her on my mobile. B

Both
oth of us were passing through the
same amazing feelings.

After a while both of us got settled and started wandering around. It was quiet on
the top of the World. The serene grassy vast lands of ‘Deosai’ were turning into
shades of purple, red, crimson and brown.. A stream was flowing right in the
middle giving life to the flora and fauna around. The weather was slightly cold and
giving us a fresh feeling.
Photo: top: The flora and fauna and the wild life in Deosai Plateau

Photos: Brown Bears and marmots can rarely be seen wandering in plains.

In extreme winter, the

he temperature of tthe climate gets as low as -20 C,, freezing the Shosar lake
near Astore in Deosai.

Photo: The Shosar Lake in extreme winter

The ‘Deosai Pleatu’ is very different and in full swing in summer. The ideal time
for the visit is from June to September. But you never know when it will become
windy and when the rain converts into thunder storm!

Photo: The land of Giants ‘ The Deosai ’

Photo: The glorious views of the flora and fauna in ‘ Deosai plains’ in Summer

We had a fantastic day in the amazing valley and keep wandering around.
Photo: ‘Bara Pani’ in Deosai. on
n night camping may get a chance to see the rare ‘ Brown Bear’.

Photo: Ayesha on the bridge at Bara Pani

The next stop was ‘Bara Pani’ where the camping arrangements can be done for
tourists to stay overnight. Thus they may get a chance to see the brown bears and
marmots at night, coming across in search of food.
4th
day in Skardu: i) Looking for the amazing N
Natural carving in the KK
K range

ii) Visit
isit to the Valley of Shigar, the gateway to K2

Travelling all along on the winding and twisting Korakorum Highway (KKH) in 4WD
between rows and queues of high and low peaks of Korakoram, is a breath taking
experience. Look and appreciate what tthe weathering effect and the erosion of
rocks have created!

Photo: can you see ‘the

the great move
move’ carved on the hill.

Right : looks like classic characters from Egyptian civilization

Here is one more masterpiece of art and craft of Mother Nature.

Photo: The River Indus bringing life into the valley

From the highest view point of the KKH at an altitude of 4,714m from the sea
level, the mighty River Indus can be seen, at times gushing through narrow passes
and ridges and then suddenly widening its banks and slowing down as it enters a
vast valley, creating islands in between. The dramatic journey of KKH via a jeep/
4WD leaves such an effect hard to express in words.

The road shown below was one of the scariest and hair raising 4WD or jeep trips
in the World. Construction of the KKH started in 1959 and opened to public in
1986 after 27 years. 810 Pakistani and 82 chinese workers lost their lives, mostly
in landslides and falls while building the highway.

Photo: KKH is one of the scariest Highway in the World. The landslides keep changing their shape.
High mountains on one side and depths on the other side, is enough to disrupt
the heart-beat of first time visitor. But when you are done with your journey, a
mesmerizing scene awaits. You are hold spellbound. The magic controls your
mind.

Photos: The Shigar Valley

Day 4: In the Shigar valley

Fig: Gateway to Shigar valley

The town Shigar is headquarter of the sub division of Skardu District. It is famous
for its lush green valleys and fruit gardens and is the gate way to the World 2 nd
gigantic Peak, The K2. The Doko Bridge is on the Shyok or the Shigar River. It
originates by dozens of streams created by of melting Baltoro Glacier in the
Northern region of Gilgit- Baltistan. On the far end on the left, the Shigar River
can be seen joining the Indus. The union was very picturesque with the backdrop
of range of mountains.

Photo: The walk on the Doko Bridge was wonderful.

A short ride to ‘The Amburiq Masjid’ , the first religious monument was worth
visiting. It was built in 14th century by Syed Ali Hamdani, and got its recognition in
2005 by UNESCO as World heritage.

Photo: Amburiq mosque in Shigar Photo: A view from the terrace of the Mosque

Shigar is very rich in history, architecture, art and culture. The Balti folk songs and
their rhythm is melodious and heart touching. We got a chance to listen and enjoy
the music in a ‘chai khana’ Nearby.
On return journey
ourney from Shigar to Skardu, we got a call from sister Rashida from
Karachi. She was worried for us after hearing the news about the landslide
incident in Gilgit. We told her that we are safe and feel blessed.

But as we went down on the Highway

Highway, we noticed the traffic was with held. Soon
we were told about the panic created because of the landslide last night. But
thank God there wasn’t any loss of life. IIt didn’t take long and the Highway was
cleared and reopened
ed for the transport.

On reaching Hasan colony, Ali took us to the apple garden as planned.

planned The
gardener was very enthusiastic and took us all around to show the apple harvest.
He explained that apple blossoms work the best under cross pollination. Growing
a variety of apple trees assure success.

After the visit, we were offered the best selection from the harvest and enjoyed.
enjoyed

Photo: Blossoms in apple garden

5th day: Visit to Khaplu, Methoka water fall and Katpana Lake

Khaplu is the centre of the District Ghanche. Our 4WD passed through its busy
winding street. The weather was pleasant and we could hear streams flowing
under nearby trees. Pleased to see youngsters with big rack sacs heading to their
schools and college wearing a mask. The historic Chaqchan Mosque was our first
stop. The 7th century building had an authentic charm. The wood work was
beautiful. We went inside to offer prayers with others. The surrounding was very
calm and serene.

The Manthoka waterfall is in Kharmang valley. The 180 ft tall waterfall is mystic,
featuring lush green pasture, fresh gurgling streams and towering rocky mountain
of Korakoram. The little hanging bridge connects the restaurant and the
surrounding area with the Water Fall. The luxuriously designed restaurant served
us with fried trout fish and tasty savory with a hot cup of tea.

Photo: At the Menthoka Waterfall

Next stop was Katpana lake
lake. We spent our afternoon and had lunch. The freshly
fried fish with chips were delicious. A stroll in the Katpana Cold Desert was a
wonderful experience.

Photo: The mesmerizing Katpana Lake

Photo: The Katpana cold Desert

The sandy area is a high altitude desert located near Skardu district,, at an
elevation of 2,226m above the sea level. The desert technically stretches from
Khaplu valley to Nubra in Ladakh. Quite a few trees were bringing some life in the
cold desert and looking very spectacular with the backdrop
ackdrop of mountains. From
November to April the dunes may be covered with snow with the temperature as
low as -25 C.
Day5: Our Last night in Shangri- La Resort in Skardu

The last stop of our trip was Shangri-La resort. It was freezing cold in the 3rd week
of October. The autumn, color festival of leaves was in full bloom. The crimson
yellow alpines and cherry red tree groves were making the surrounding very
unique.

Photo : The Little Katchura Lake in Shangri-La Resort

The pink roofs of the pagoda style dining hall, along with rest houses were just
amazing. We enjoyed our last night thoroughly.
 Photo: the Autumn in bloom at Shangri-Laa Resort

The lake front with the red and crimson boats, the curvy pathways, and the
naturally decorated rocky lay outs with the sky high peaks of Korakoram range in
the background made us feel as if we are entering a fantasy land of a classic
novel.

Our last day in Shangri-La Resort was mesmerizing.

xxxxxxx