O^arnell Hniucraitg Htbtatg

Jlt^ara, Kem fork

CHARLES WILLIAM WASON

COLLECTION
CHINA AND THE CHINESE

THE GIFT OF
CHARLES WILLIAM WASON
CLASS OF 1876
1918
 Cornell University Library
G 440.B54

3 1924 023 252 467

 Cornell University
Library

The original of tiiis book is in

tine Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in

the United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023252467
A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
MERCAT PRESS, EDINBURGH
 GEISHA GIRIvS. TEA GARDENS. KIOTO (JAPAN)
Frontispiece}
 A MAGICIAN IN
MANY LANDS

BY THE LATE

CHARLES BERTRAM
Author of ' Isn^t it Wonderful?' l^c., &c.

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY

PROFESSOR HOFFMANN

ILLUSTRATED BY A COLOURED FRONTISPIECE

AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS IN BLACK & WHITE

LONDON
GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS, LIMITED
NEW YORK : E. P. BUTTON y CO.

1911
 I I
1 I
 INTRODUCTION
'
O
FOR the touch of a vanished hand^ and the sound
The poet's words come
!

of a voice that is still '

sadly to mind as I recall the genial personality of my

old friend Charles Bertram, and take pen in hand to
write a brief introduction to the record of his
journey round the world a record which, unhappily
:

he himself was not destined to see in print, having

in the meantime been summoned to make that last
long journey from which no traveller returns.
A book of travel, written by a keen observer, is

always interesting. Charles Bertram was not only

a keen observer, but enjoyed opportunities of
observation denied to ninety-nine travellers out of a
hundred. His exceptional skill in his fascinating
craft, his popularity as a public entertainer, and his
personal good-fellowship had made for him a host
of friends, and probably no man ever started on
a journey round the world more amply provided
with letters of recommendation to the four quarters
of the globe. And wherever the magic carpet set
him down, he had the happy knack of making yet
more and more friends all eager to show him what
:

was best worth seeing in his temporary halting-

place.
^i INTRODUCTION
Thus at Calcutta he was permitted to see the
famous Black Hole, long since inaccessible to the
•ordinary tourist. At Kapurthala he was allowed
by special favour to witness the payment to the
Maharajah of the annual tribute, the ruler sitting
in state, and each man bringing his money, wrapped.
Biblical fashion, in a napkin, and pouring it out at
his feet. The ceremony over, Bertram dined with
the Maharajah, no longer the haughty potentate,
but the genial host of an honoured guest.
From the Maharajah of Patiala (the chief of the
Sikh States) whose acquaintance Bertram had
already made in England, he likewise received
a royal welcome, and in the company of the prince
took part, not only in polo and pig-sticking parties,
but in the ceremonies of the '
Holi ' festival, a
popular event at which the chief 'fun of the fair,'

started by the Maharajah in person, consists in

pelting and being pelted, not with harmless confetti,
but with balls containing aniline dyes, in powder,
afterwards temporarily made fast by a gentle
'
'

douche from a fire-hose.

At Delhi, letters of introduction from Col. Sir
Neville Chamberlain proved an open sesame
'

everywhere. At Jeypore he was permitted to

witness the feeding of the sacred alligators, an
exciting experience, for at one moment he had
reason to fear that he would form part of the meal
himself. At Agra he put his audience to flight.
Performing before the Maharajah of Kitri and
some two hundred and fifty of his retainers, he

introduced the feat, in England well-known, of

 INTEODUCTION vii

catching money from the air, now and then pro-

ducing by way of variation a few rupees from the
whiskers and turbans of the spectators. This was
too much for their nerves. Convinced that by
nothing short of devil magic could such an effect
' '

be produced, they, one after another, silently crept

out of the hall, and a:t the conclusion of the trick,
of the original two hundred and fifty, only fourteen
were left.

At Dholpur, after a narrow escape from a tiger,

chained by way of house-dog at the palace gate,
he had the signal honour of being invited by the
Maharana to give his entertainment in the
immediate presence of the ladies of the zenana,
without the interposition of the purdah (the '
'

curtain which ordinarily screens them from profane

view). The privilege,' by the way, was strictly
personal to Bertram, his less fortunate secretary
being left outside with the tiger.
At the Kolar^ gold-fields he was tantalised by
the offer of a 'gold-brick' (the genuine article),
which he was told he might carry away with him
if he could lift it with one hand. He did his best,
but here even his magic powers were of no avail.
A little later, at Rangoon, he was enabled to realise
in a forcible way the poor strength of man as
compared with that of the lower animals. In the
timber yards and sawmills, he saw elephants lifting
and stacking with ease, as if they were mere bricks,
baulks of teak of three tons or more in weight
Of his own performances, Bertram throughout
says very little, save where, as at Agra, he has
viii INTRODUCTION
some amusing incident to relate. On the other
hand, he devotes three very interesting chapters
to the tricks of the Indian conjurers. By favour
of his princely hosts, he witnessed no than less

io6 of such performances, in each case by the

'star' wizard of the district. In these pages he
gives minute explanations of the mango trick, the
basket trick, and others less known. Of the
fabulous 'rope trick,' wherein the performer is
said to throw a rope into the air, climb up it, and
disappear at the top, all he has to tell us is that
a reward of ten thousand pounds offered by Lord
Lonsdale, with the minor inducement of five
hundred offered by Bertram himself, failed to pro-
duce a wizard who could perform it. Of the
hundred and six native experts, not one claimed
to have seen it performed, and the majority had
never even heard of it. So much for travellers'
'

tales
At Mandalay, the road to which {pace Mr
Rudyard Kipling) he describes as the dustiest, '

dirtiest, and most noisome '

he had ever travelled,
he had the uncomfortable privilege of occupying
the room where Soupiala, one of the wives of
King Theebaw, had chopped to pieces a maid
of honour of whom she was jealous. The ghost of
the slaughtered maiden did not, however, disturb his
slumbers.
At Hongkong he acquired a new accomplish-
ment, in the shape of the queer language known
as 'pidgin English.' He gives by way of sample
a pidgin version of Longfellow's poem. Excelsior.
 INTRODUCTION ix

It does not appear that he attained sufficient

mastery over the new language to attempt a
performance with pidgin 'patter,' attractive though
such a performance would doubtless have been.
At Canton he saw the last moments of a con-
demned criminal. The unfortunate wretch was
placed a sort of cage, about eight feet high,
in
with a hole in the top through which his neck
passed. His feet were at starting supported by
a pile of stones, but one of these had been removed
daily, till he hung by his head, and ultimately
died of exhaustion. His relatives meanwhile made
the best of things by allowing any one who pleased,
for a small consideration, to take snapshots of his
dying agonies.
Another painful but less gruesome experience
was an invitation to a Chinese dinner, of which
he partook at Shanghai. There were several
courses, and according to Chinese ideas it was
a very nice dinner, but as soon as it was over the
European guests with one accord betook them-
selves to the Shansrhai Club, '
to oret somethingr
to eat.'
The foregoing items are but mere samples from
a vast assortment of interesting incidents, grave
and gay. The chief cities of Japan, Australia and
New Zealand, — Honolulu, San Francisco, Salt
Lake City, New York, Philadelphia, Boston,
Montreal, Quebec and a host of others each con-
tribute their quota to the '
feast of good things
which is here set before us. A feast delightful
even to those, if such there be, who knew nothing
a 2
X INTRODUCTION

at all of the writer ; doubly so to those who knew

him in his public or private capacity, and can
picture to themselves the Mark Tapleyan cheeriness
with which he passed through varied experiences
which he so vividly and withal so modestly
describes.
It only remains to add that the editing of his
notes has been a labour of love, ably carried out
by his widow Mrs Clara Bertram (herself well-
known as a talented harpist and society enter-
tainer), and his friend, Mr Bellingham, who, has
with the greatest kindness revised the whole
work, made the selection of the illustrations
from a large number which Mr Bertram had
collected together, and read the proofs.
Louis Hoffmann
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

I decide to tour the world —The Oceania — Port Said

A local conjuror •
— I change ' busses ' — The
Shannon —A Mahometan funeral

CHAPTER II

Bombay —The Tivoli Theatre — I lunch at Go\'ern-

ment House —Secunderabad— Mr Jacobs, known
to the world Mr
as ' — Hyderabad
Isaacs '
.

CHAPTER III

Raipur —The Raj Kumai — by College Travelling

' Tonga'—
bullock on an — I ride elephant Calcutta
— perform Government House—Lord Curzon
I
—The Nawab of Dacca
at
.....
CHAPTER IV

The Black Hole of Calcutta The Burning Ghats—

The Botanical Gardens, the Banyan Tree Indian —
Railway Travelling . . . . . 13
xii CONTENTS

CHAPTER V
Allahabad — Fakirs, their extraordinary tasks and pen-
ances—The nude — The Railway
procession
Theatre — meet an unexpected
I acquaintance
Benares— pay my I Maharajah and
respects to the
Holy Man — The Monkey and Golden
visit

Temples
the
.......
CHAPTER VI

Lucknow —The Residency — I open at the Mohamed

—
Bagh Theatre A supplementary '
Show '
at the
Chatr Munzil Palace Cawnpore — — My illness

I struggle though helped by my boy Jairham Jugga

— Cawnpore— I watch a performance of the
Mango —
Meerut The Whela Club
tree trick —
Umballa —I
meet General Penn Symons An —
invitation from the Maharajah of Kapurthala
Am splendidly entertained A Durbar —

CHAPTER VII

Buona Vista —Amritzar the Golden Temple —Lahore

:

Patiala — His Highness The Maharajah . .

33

CHAPTER VIII

The Holi Festival — I am initiated . . . .

38

CHAPTER IX

Delhi —
The Kutb Minar, a monument of victory
The Iron Pillar A — native Baboon — I get a
fright
44
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER X
Johdpur —The value of a '
peg '
— I visit the Maharajah
— Amber—The palace —The f^te in honor of
the Goddess of Wealth —The sacred alligators
—
A tug of w^ar between
Bertram hurriedly ! .....
man and beast Exit
49

CHAPTER XI

Agra —The Taj Mahal — I perform before the Mahara-

jah of Khetri — Stampede of the natives — Bertram
the devil-man
'
' — Observations on the
mosquito . . . . . . .56

CHAPTER XII

Dholpur —
I \isit the Maharana —Am
honoured in being
permitted to occupv the guest chambers used b}-
his late Majesty King Edw^ard as Prince of
—
Wales in 1876 I perform before the ladies of
the Zenana — Ha\e a narrow escape from a tiger
— Give
Patiala ........
lessons in legerdemain to the Maharajah
64

CHAPTER XIII

—
Gwalior
ride
—The
........
\-agaries of the ' punkah '
an elephant
69

CHAPTER XIV
Baroda—-The kindness of His Highness the Gaekwar
In the Durbar Hall I gi\e a State performance
The horrors of the famine .... 74
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER XV
The Koiar Gold-field —Bangalore—An examination by
the plague officials . . . . . . 8o

CHAPTER XVI
Madras — My ' boy '

— 'The toddy
climbs for '— perform '
I
'
before Lord Havelock Catamaran . 85

CHAPTER XVII

Trichinopoli —
The terra-cotta horses — I accept a
volunteer ticket-seller and pay for — it . . 90

CHAPTER XVIII

I visit the Rajah of Puddakkotai —and am greatly

—
honoured a State performance in the Library .
94

CHAPTER XIX
Indian Jugglers and Conjurers —^The Mango tree-trick
— a fewr comments on travellers' tales . .
98

CHAPTER XX
— —
The Rope Trick
—Basket Trick
tall

.....
stories and their absurdity-
105

CHAPTER XXI
Indian Conjurers —
Hussain Bux —
some effective tricks
— —
my opinions The pearl fisheries at Tuticorin
Ceylon^I visit the Boer Camp . . . 112
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXn
Rangoon Central —murderers and
Prison con\icts
The proclamation of King Edward VII as Emperor
of — Mandalay—King Thebaw's
India Palace
A Burmese —Pponghyi Honev
festival . . 124

CHAPTER XXIII

—
— —
Dutch wife Singapore I risk my —
Penang I find a
life in a ' sampan '
^The Chinese New Year
Hong-Kong — Pidgin English . . . . 137

CHAPTER XXIV
—
Canton The execution ground hacked to pieces :

— —
Slow strangulation Sana;hai The English settle-
—
—
ment I meet mv friend Mr Percy Brough ^We
witness 'Justice while you wait ' . . . 150

CHAPTER XXV
I take a Chinese Dinner — and afterwards dine at the
Club —The —A
Chinese Theatre long perform-
ance — I give a show— Received in silence but
—Go\ernor Kwei
with great success recei\'es me
kindly at Soochow— A Chinese punishment . 165

CHAPTER XXVI
Japan —Bertram Buffoon— out
tl\e I take a license
Kobe —Yokohama— am commanded I to appear
before the Mikado . . . .
.177
CHAPTER XXVII
Tokio — Sidelights on Japanese cleanliness — I perform
before the Court —The Shrine of Nikko —Kioto
— the Cherry Dances —The Geisha Girls . . 185
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXVIII
Japanese Jugglers —A Japanese Play— blood-thirsty per-
formance —A Geisha House
visit to a . . 201

CHAPTER XXIX
Hong Kong —
Robert and Percy Brough meet me
—We
Percy and I play poker capture a small shark
and sight the ' Ophir ' with the present King
— —
and Queen on board Sydney Melbourne —
—
surprise the Chief of Police —
Bendigo Mary-
borough, Mayorthe me—Mudgee receives
Forbes — Hooligans —
Australian Jerilderie, the
notoriousNed Kelly gang—A up When fit shovsr '

London
— on — Yarrowonga—
Sleeps
'
coach I ride in a
' Ici —Sydney
parle Francais and '
loafers
thieves . . . . . . . .211

CHAPTER XXX
New Zealand —Auckland— Hector Macdonald
Sir re-
views the troops —Crossing Line —Honolulu the 236

CHAPTER XXXI
San Francisco The — Chinese quarter — Opium dens
and Theatres —New York ——The Livisit of
Hung Chang — Coney Island A clam bake
'
'
. 241

CHAPTER XXXII
— — cycling
Philadelphia
City
I visit
—-Boston — Charlestown
the Mint
.... at Atlantic
253
 CONTENTS xvii

CHAPTER XXXIII
—
Montreal The students attend my performance
Niagara Quebec — — Ottawa—A fire at the
Government Buildings . . . . .258
CHAPTER XXXIV
Chicago — Hold
' ups' —
Sandbagging Messrs Armours —
Establishment —
I witness the process St Louis —
I perform before the famous Joseph Jefferson
Cincinnati —
An American ' Train Bo)' ' . . 267

CHAPTER XXXV
I meet my famous confrere Kellar —An advertising
dodge —
Clexeland —
Mark Hanna the American
statesman assists me on the Stage St Paul ——
Sleighing —
Nashville —A
Negro Court ' I'll cut
you deep —
New Orleans
'
. . . .278
CHAPTER XXXVI
Washington — I am a millionaire — fo? a second or two
Baltimore — Richmond — the Ice harvest — Brett
and I and the bears . . . . 292

CHAPTER XXXVII
Saratoga chips —Trunk smashers at work — Down the
—
—
Hudson Election
American Woman ......
day in New York The
303

CHAPTER XXXVIII
Homewards bound on the Lncania —A Little Game at

Poker I — deal, and retire —The reward of

Innocence — Euston . . . . .311
 ILLUSTRATIONS

Charles Bertram IV
My '

Carriage
'

....
Boy guarding

Burning Ghat, Calcutta

the Treasure

.
6
8
14
Banyan Tree, Calcutta 15
Hindoo Fakir, supposed never to sit down 19
Hindoo Fakir sitting on a bed of nails 20
Hindoo Fakir with one hand which he may not take
down 22
Hindoo Fakir with both hands up which he may not
take down 23
Head of the nude procession 25
Holy Man 26
My Bills at Delhi .
46
The Holy Elephant 53
The Taj Mahal, Agra .
57
Going to Market 86
Terra Cotta Horses at Puddakkotai 96
Mango Tree Trick . lOI
I visit the Boer Camp in Ceylon "9
Major Regan and Executioner at Rangoon Gaol 121
Murderer awaiting Execution at Rangoon 126
Figure at Gate of Anacan Pagoda, Mandalay 131
Maid of Honour's Room, Mandalay 133
Cingalese Chiefs
Devil Dances .... 141
143
 ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
Hacked to pieces, Canton
Native condemned to death by slow strangulation
Six men strangled to death, Canton
Native
Rickshaws
Street in
.....
Tea Shops and Dancing-girl

Soochow, 6 ft. wide .

houses, Shanghai
161
168
Visiting Card of
Native Conveyance
Native God, Soochow
....
Governor Neil, Soochow

License for an Actor in Japan

A Morning
Imperial Palace Bridge,
Call .... Tokyo
.

.
180

186

Geishas
Main Street,
.....
Wisteria and Kioto Bridge, Temple,

Tokyo
Tokyo 187

191
Seventh Shogum, Shiba, Tokyo 194
Geishas an Unsatisfactory View
:

Kinjonzu Kwanoi Kioto Temple Gardens — 197

The Yoshiwara 199
Japanese Jugglers 202
Geisha girl in bed .
203
Yoshiwara Girl 204
Japanese Funeral Rites 206
Blind Street Musician 207
A Lady's foot, Japan 209
' Ophir '
in Sydney Harbour 213
Prince of Wales Theatre, Gulgong 219
My Bills at Mudgee 221
Charles Bertram 312
A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS

CHAPTER I

There comes a time in the life of every man when

he wishes to enlarge the field of his operations, and
having decided that this was desirable in my own
case, my thoughts naturally turned to the East,
which from time immemorial has been steeped in
the fascinating traditions of the Black Art.
Such a step seemed the more promising inasmuch
as I had been fortunate for so many years in
securing the patronage of the ever- indulgent British
Public. Rapidity of action, as my readers are
doubtless aware, is a necessary adjunct to my
profession. So, allowing myself just sufficient time
to gather together my impedimenta and secure
a number of influential introductions to the ruling
Princes of India, I booked my passage in P. & O. s.s.
Oceania. The day of my departure (January i6th
1899) duly arrived and ll a.m. saw me at Victoria
Station with my secretary.
A number of members of the Savage Club and
many other friends, amongst them several Indian
officials of high position, were on the platform to
2 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
wish us bon voyage, and to the waving of hand-
kerchiefs and shouts of '
Good luck/ the train
steamed out of the station.

Two days later we embarked at Marseilles.

Inot dwell upon the usual incidents of a

will
voyage, but as this was my first journey to the
gorgeous East some of my early impressions may
not be out of place.
Particularly charming were the Straits of
Messina, —a lovely picture —the coast rising in

gentle slopes from the sea. On the one side

Reggio and on the other Messina with Etna snow-
clad and grand at the end of the Straits in the
distance.
was a beautiful day with scarcely a ripple on
It

the sea. Hardly a sound was to be heard as we

glided peacefully between the two towns, the houses
on either side of us looking like toys. So we
passed out of the Straits leaving Etna behind us
with a small cloud of white smoke issuing from its

crater and curling up into the blue sky.

At Port Said we experienced the delights of
coaling, in the course of which we received a visit
from a local conjurer who performed some tricks on
the deck of the steamer very creditably indeed, and
by the way he was patronised by the passengers,
I should imagine he made a very considerable
income.
He much amusement by the peculiar
caused
sounds he made with his mouth whilst performing
his tricks, and hismanner of addressing his
audience. ' Hold this, Mrs Langtr'y,' he would
 A MAGICIAN m MANY LANDS 3

say to a lady. 'Stand back, Mr Masher,' to a

gentleman. I was especially honoured when he
turned sharply to me and said, '
You haven't paid
Mr Fergusson,' and with a not unnatural sympathy
hastened to supply the omission.
After the performance we went on shore for a
few hours and drove round the town. It seemed

to me the rendezvous of the scum of the earth.

I was assured thatit had greatly improved of
recent years. It must have been bad
After a very interesting journey through the
canal, we arrived at Suez.
The heat was intense and punkahs were put up
for the first time.
Several seedy boys (stokers) died in the Red Sea
and were '
buried ' there.
Aden was soon reached, and immediately the
anchor was dropped the ship was swarming with
Somali boys shouting Have a dive Have a '
!

dive
!

Some of the passengers responded by

'

throwing small silver coins into the sea for which

the boys, regardless of the sharks which abound in
the harbour, dived.
The destination of the Oceania being Australia,
we changed busses at Aden for Bombay, and
'
'

the good ship Shannon had the honour of our

company for the remainder of the voyage to India.
Two days after leaving Aden a Mahometan died
of berri-berri and his co-religionists held a very
impressive service atHaving been
his burial.

carefully washed, the body was wrapped in clean

white cloth. Many prayers were repeated, the
4 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
mourners touching the deck with their foreheads,
and prostrating themselves many times with military
precision. At the conclusion of this ceremony the
corpse was placed on a wooden hatch grating and
gently lowered over the gunwale. The ship was
then slowed down and the sea allowed to wash the
body off the grating, it being part of the Mahometan
creed not to cast the body into the sea but to allow
the sea to take it into its embrace. The solemnity
of the whole proceedings, conducted entirely apart
from the ship's company, was very impressive.
 CHAPTER II

By dint of great perseverance, having exhausted

nearly all my patience, I at length collected my
goods and chattels and proceeded by ghari '
' to
'
Watson's Annexe —
a very comfortable hotel.
'

Here my Indian servants received me with much

formality, addressing me as '
me lord '
and salaaming
with great reverence. Finally they dispossessed
me of my keys, emptied my trunks and simply
took over everything. Though at first somewhat
disquieted, I soon became reconciled to this delight-
ful custom of the country, and have never sub-
—
sequently foregone if available the luxury of a —
good '
boy.'
The next day saw me preparing for my first

public performance in the East. T had engaged

the Tivoli Theatre, a spacious building seating
about a thousand persons. There was a tolerable
stage, with act drop and scenery all native painted.
With the addition of a few new draperies the place
looked quite presentable, and with an anxious
heart, I awaited the fateful hour. The result was
far beyond my best expectations. The theatre
was packed and my performance most favourably
received. His Excellency the Governor, Lord
6 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Sandhurst, Lady Sandhurst, and suite, were
present, together with a very fashionable audience,
including His Highness the Gaikwar of Baroda
and his sons. At the close of the programme an
illuminated address and a gold watch from the
passengers of the Oceania were publicly pre-
sented to me by General Ventus.

My '
Boy ' guarding the Treasure Box

The following, day I was honoured with an

invitation from Lord and Lady Sandhurst to lunch
at Government House. There His Excellency
presented me with his signed photograph and a
very handsome silver cigar case, engraved with
an appropriate inscription.
My stay in the city was exceedingly pleasant.
The three principal clubs, the Yacht, Bombay and
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 7

Byculla made me an honorary member, besides

which I was shown everything of interest in
the vicinity including the celebrated Caves of
Elephanta.
Leaving Bombay, I went by rail over the Ghats
(3,500 feet high) —a wonderful feat of engineering
to Poona.
There I was splendidly entertained for two days
by the Western India Club and gave two perform-
ances to packed houses at the Gymkana Club.
Then, my engagements having been previously
made, I was obliged to proceed to Hyderabad.
At Wadi Junction, I was put to terrible in-
convenience, owing to the plague officials refusing
to pass my three Indian servants but the good —
influences of a kindly doctor at Hyderabad enabled
them to be sent after me and so I escaped with
only a temporary embarrassment.
Next day my entertainment was given under
true oriental conditions. His Excellency Vicar-ul-
umrah, Minister to the Nizam was holding a grand
garden fete in honour of His Highness. To me
was allotted a beautifully embroidered shamiana '

carpeted and decorated with great splendour, and

the whole tamasha was carried out with a
'
'

magnificence only to be found in the gorgeous

East.
At Secunderabad I performed at The Laihi- '

ud-Dowla Theatre where I was introduced to

'

—
Mr Jacobs an amateur conjuror made famous —
by Marion Crawford in his celebrated novel
Mr Isaacs.
8 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Hyderabad is the largest native state in India,
the Nizam, the most important native prince ruling
over ten millions of people.
The city is typical, teeming with people purely
native, with crowds of fakirs, cripples, beggars,
and others suffering from loathsome diseases,
lepers,
who pester the passer by and cry for 'backsheesh.'
The Nizam placed a carriage at my disposal,

I I iTpO

Carriage

with two '

syces ' who, running a little in advance
of the horses, with shouts of '
bucho ' '
bucho (save
'

yourselves threw the people out of our path.

!)

Seven miles from Hyderabad is the ruined city

of Golemda, which I visited. Here are to be
found the tombs of past Nizams and also the
hiding places of the fabulous wealth of ancient
kings of India,
 CHAPTER III

After four days of pleasurable exploration in and

around Hyderabad, diiring which I went over the
British Military Cantonment at Secunderabad the —
largest in India I —
left for Raipur where I was

engaged to give a private performance at the Raj

Kumai College. This I owed to the good offices
of my friend, Mr Sly, the well-known political agent,
whose guest I was during my visit.
He met me at the railway station and we drove
in a 'bullock tonga' to his house. It was my first

experience of this mode of travelling and strongly

reminiscent of galloping over a ploughed field in a
two-wheeled cart without springs. But this was
child's play compared to the journey after dinner,
upon an elephant, to the college. The splendid
creature was brought to the bungalow and com-
manded by the mahout (driver) to bito,' at which
'
'
'

it knelt down whilst we climbed to the seats upon

its back by means of a ladder.

These were after the style of those of an Irish

jaunting car, having also a swinging foot-beard on
either side.
Now reader, please imagine me, a man of sixteen
Stone, in evening dress, perched sideways on this
10 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
beast,more than twelve feet above the ground (in
the darkness indeed seeming much more) the foot-
board quite a foot too high and consequently forcing
my knees upwards almost to my chin.
But I did not properly appreciate the position
until the '
hathi ' began to move ! The great
lumbering creature rolled about like a ship at sea,
and every time he put down a foot, it seemed as if
a blow had been struck upward, with a steam
hammer. Thump, thump, thump ! I rolled from
side to side, was shaken backward, then, with a
jerk brought forward, thinking every moment that
I should be thrown off the seat into what, in the
darkness, seemed an interminable abyss. Soon I

became hot, the perspiration rolled down my cheeks,

my and shirt front grew limp and eventually
collar
doubled up like a boiled rag.
But worse was to follow, a horse and tum turn '
'•

(dog cart) came along the road towards us and,

after a great shouting, the '
mahout,' in order that
the horse might not be frightened, made a detour
through the jungle
So, we stumped along through the trees, the
elephant, with marvellous intelligence, breaking
down, with his trunk, the boughs which he thought
would touch our heads. Despite this extraordinary
care and the assurance of my friend, I was not
happy. The necessary confidence in the beast was
lacking, and In fear that he and I might not agree
as to the need for removal of even one small bough,
I doubled myself almost into a ball and hung on for

dear life,
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS ii

So I travelled through the blackness of the night,

the monotonous bumpings varied by an occasional
kind of long step whenever the faithful creature
wished to cross a small ditch or furrow. It seemed
to me that for the size of the furrow he took an
extraordinarily long step
Presently he began to move faster and soon he
again found the high road.
In the course of time I thankfully arrived at the
College, but not at all in a fit state to give a two
hours' performance before the sons of kings. Many
young princes were present and the
friends of the
whole entertainment was brilliant, the only draw-
back from my point of view being the prospective
return journey on the elephant
However by means of re-adjustment of foot-
boards and saddle-seats the ordeal passed with
a minimum of inconvenience and I made a relatively
comfortable return to my friend's bungalow. He
pressed me to remain for a tiger hunt, but having
given my word to my family, before leaving
England that I would not hunt lions, I decided to
overlook the difference in the name of the animal
and place same category. So despite
tigers in the
a promise that my boy should be at least there a
week I resolutely declined and made the best of my
way to Calcutta.
There I had engaged the Opera House, and for
a week my entertainments, both artistically and
financially, were most satisfactory.
During my visit, I gave two state performances
at Government House before His Excellency the
12 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Viceroy Lord Curzon, Lady Curzon, and a most
distinguished company. On both occasions the
throne room was used, a full band being in attend-
ance. Lord Curzon expressed his gratification in
most flattering terms and introduced me to several
Maharajahs and Begums, and to the ladies and
gentlemen of his suite.
A few days later, I had the privilege of performing
before a native audience, being engaged by His
Highness the Nawab of Dacca.
His wives and family were seated behind trans-
parent curtains, through which they could see
without being seen ('in purdah'). His Highness
gave me his photograph and a very handsome silver
bowl of Indian workmanship, together with a sub-
stantial cheque, and expressed his pleasure and
astonishment at my various illusions.
 CHAPTER IV

One morning, when leaving Government House,

I Lord Curzon had arranged to visit the
learnt that
celebrated Black Hole of Calcutta, a dungeon
eighteen feet square where, in 1/56, one hundred
and forty-six British subjects passed the night, only
twenty-three being alive the following morning.
The present Post Office yard is built on the site

of this terrible tragedy, and it was necessary to

excavate in order that it might be properly viewed
by His Excellency.
Naturally I also wished to see the famous spot
and having been fortunate enough to obtain per-
mission from the postal authorities, was able to
inspect it immediately after Lord Curzon's departure.
The re-filling commenced whilst I was still there,
and a few hours afterwards there was no visible
sign of any excavations having been made.
There is an inscription over the gate-way point-
ing out the exact area of the site, and beyond this
nothing is ordinarily seen connected with the awful
event.
The burning Ghats on the banks of the Hughli are
worth a visit and in the splendid Botanical Gardens,
14 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS

<
H
H
P
(J
J
<
U

<
a
o
o
g
£
D
m
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 15

the marvellous Banyan Tree may be seen. This

extraordinary growth is over a thousand feet in

circumference and is still growing.

After a most interesting week I bade adieu to the
numerous kind' friends I had made and caught the
night train for Allahabad.
A word must be said in praise of railway travelling
in India. If one can get accustomed to the dust,

Banyan Tree, Calcutta

the travelling is remarkably comfortable considering

the hot climate.
The first have two seats accom-
class carriages

modating four persons though rarely occupied by

more than two. The seats are about three feet
wide, well padded and leather covered, and run the
length of the carriage, less the width of the door.
 1 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Over each seat is another seat, folded back, which is
letdown at night if a third and fourth person have
to be accommodated.This rarely happens, as there
seems to be an unwritten law amongst European
travellers against overcrowding. At one end of the
carriage is a small compartment for the use of accom-
panying native servants, with a small sliding window
communicating, so that the traveller can give
instructions to his '
boy ' (the servants are all called
'
boys ' even at sixty) should he need him on the
journey. During the day one can recline on the
seat at full length, and read or otherwise occupy the

time, whilst at night one's '

Nowker makes up
' the
bed with a razai and sheets, which are always
'
'

carried,and the traveller is made comfortable until

the next day. There is good lavatorial convenience,
and the windows of the carriages are large, and have
blue glass shutters to keep off the sun's glare.
There is also a contrivance like a wheel about 2 feet
6 inches in diameter, covered with rushes or grass.
About a third of the wheel, at the bottom, is im-

mersed in water, and as it is turned by a small

handle attached to its centre, the grass becomes
saturated with water, and the air entering from the
outside through the wet rushes, cools the atmosphere
of the carriage.
According to the railway regulations the whole of
the luggage accompanying a passenger should be
weighed and charged for, 120 lbs or i|- maunds,
being allowed free to each first class passenger, but
I have invariably found, that a charge is made only
for luggage which is so large and cumbersome that
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 17

it has to be placed in the brake van. Sometimes,

Ml this account, I must add, the carriages are so
packed with baggage, that it is quite difficult to get
to one's seat, trunks being jammed from floor to
ceiHng besides being placed underneath the seats
and in the gangway. The cost of travelling first
class in India is about the same as travelling third
class in England — i anna per mile. One servant i^
generally allowed to travel free on each fare paid,
but on some railways a small charge is made, being
about 6 miles for one anna (one penny).
 CHAPTER V

The journey to Allahabad was uninteresting, except

for an occasional jackal, camel caravan, or an
elephant. Nearer to the city a number of nearly
naked men and women were squatting in the fields
or outside their mud hovels. A few palm trees, and
cactus plants were scattered here and there, with
numerous hawks, blue jays and parrots. Allahabad
itself is fairly interesting. I visited the celebrated
Fort with underground passages,
its at the junction
of the Ganges and the Jumna. Here also I

witnessed the Magh Mela, the great religious fair

and festival.
Thousands of fakirs, lepers, hawkers and hide-
ously deformed cripples assemble, and pilgrims by
hundreds of thousands travel from all parts of India,
to take part in the function, and to bathe in the
sacred waters, which they believe will wash away
their sins. It is estimated that over two million

people assemble annually to celebrate this festival.

Some of the fakirs impose upon themselves the
most extraordinary tasks and penances.
i3
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 19

Here is the picture of a man, who has remained

standing for thirty years.

Hindoo Fakir, who is supposed never to sit down

20 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Another dirty ragged ascetic lies continually on
a bed of sharp spikes.

Hmdco Fakir sitting on a bed of nails

One man told a visitor that he had never put

one of his arms down for six years, and that after
another six years had elapsed, he would take it

down, and hold up the other.

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS ^ 21

Here are two others, who have held their arms

above their heads until thty have become withered,
and the finger nails have grown into, and through
the flesh.
The picture represents the head of a procession
of naked fakirs, numbering about five hundred.
They have the special permission of the Govern-
ment to walk about in a state of complete nudity,
for the week that the Mela is proceeding.
Perhaps the most impressive sight in the whole
festival is the 'Idu'1-fitr commonly known as the
'Id festival celebrated by the Mohammedans when
the great fast of Ramazan, which lasts thirty days,
is broken.
The following incident illustrates in what a small
world we live, after all. During a performance at
the Railway Theatre, I desired some one from the
audience to come upon the stage to assist in one
of my and a gentleman in the stalls kindly
tricks,

consented to do so. In order to prove to the

audience that I was not acting in collusion with
anyone, I remarked, '
You are not a confederate
you ? Certainly not,' he
of mine, are '
'
replied.
'
There is no understanding or arrangement between
us, with regard to this trick ?
'
'
Oh ! no, certainly
not,' said he. I ought to have been satisfied with
these replies, but being anxious to impress the
audience with the genuineness of my performance,
said, In fact, you have never seen
emphatically, '

me have you?' 'Oh! yes I have,' said

before,
he, I helped you with this trick in Glasgow,
'

Edinburgh and Tamworth He turned out to !

'
22 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
be the Electrical Engineer to the G.I. P. Railway
Company.

Hindoo Fakir, with one hand which he may not take down

Although having no professional engagements

there, I could not lose an opportunity of visitino-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 23

Hindoo Fakir with both hands up, which he may not take down
24 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
that holiest of Indian cities, Benares. To the
pious Brahman it gate of Heaven, the place
-is-the
he longs to visit, and wash away his sins in the
sacred Ganges before he dies.
Arriving at the big Ghat, what a scene I beheld!
Moving slowly along the white front of the city in
a boat,, a marvellous panorama unfolded itself before
me. Wonderfiil palaces in unending succession,
each more beautiful than the last, passed in review,
whilst standing in the river, sprinkling yellow
leaves of flowers on and drinking from
its surface,
their' palms the polluted water, were thousands of
devotees saying their 'puja,' making libations and
offerings to the sacred river, and performing the
quaintest of religious and idolatrous ceremonies.
Passing up the river to the palace of Ramnagahr,
I visited the Maharajah of Benares to whom I had
a letter of introduction. I was shown over the
whole wonderful building, and after a short stay
with His Highness, returned by water to Benares
city, and paid a visit to the Holy Man of Benares.

A wonderful person, held in the highest venera-

tion and esteem. He was walking about perfectly
nude, in a beautiful garden, and received me with
the greatest kindness. When he heard that I was
a jadu-wallah (conjuror), he asked me to perform
some of my I complied, and in expressing
miracles.
his delight,he said that such a state of perfection
could only be attained by many years of meditation
and prayer He blessed me, hung garlands of
!

flowers about my neck, and insisted that I should

eat a small plantain from his hand, so that in
A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 25

w
u
o
k;
Oh

w
o
D
z
H
a

o
D
26 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
future '
I should never want for food.' Up to the
present I am bound to admit that his blessing has
not failed ! He showed me a book, given him by
her late Majesty, Queen Victoria, of which he was

Holy Man

greatly proud. He also gave me his photograph,

and a copy of a book of his life, which he signed
before handing it to me. He then embraced me
and we walked together to the garden gate, where
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 27

my carriag-e was waiting. Finally after many

further embraces he suffered me to leave him.
Shortly after my return to England I heard, with
very great regret, of his death at a very advanced
age.
Amongst other places I visited the celebrated
Monkey Temple, also the Golden Temple, the
dome of which is covered with plates of real gold,
thence through the bazaars, swarming with lepers,
fakirs, cripples and loathsome-looking beings, a
surging mass of humanity, almost impossible to
imagine. Before leaving, I made some purchases
of brass ware in the Brass bazaar, and departed
thinking Benares was the most indescribable place
I had ever seen.
After two days' holidays in this the most
picturesque and mysterious city of India, I left

for Lucknow.
 CHAPTER VI

LucKNOW, the name' of which is a household word

to air Eiiglishmen ! The deepest interest centres
alround' the ruined Residency, the sceiie of the
during the Mutiny in 1857, and
terrible struggle
the adjoining cemetery, the resting place of so
many heroes. No Englishman can fail to' be
affected by the recollection of the splendid deeds
of that devoted handful of their countrymen fight-
ing against a large and mutinous army, or remain
unhiovedat the stories of the heroic reliefs and
the valour of our troops led by Lawrence, Outram,
Havelock, and Colin Campbell.
Full of such feelings I paid my visit to the
Residency from the tower of which, the Union
Jack proudly floats, forming the best possible
monument tothe eternal memory of that band
of heroes. The surrounding grounds and gardens
are kept in splendid condition, in loving and affec-
tionate remembrance of those valiant dead whose
intrepidity and courage were the wonder of the
world.
I had made arrangements to present a series of
performances at the Mohamed Bagh Theatre, a
very comfortable little annexe to the charming
Club House.
 A MAGICIAN m MANY LANDS 29

So great was the demand for seats, that they

could not be accommodated, and a supplementary
performance was arranged to take place at the
Chatr Munzil Palace, under the auspices of the
United Service Club, who occupy the best
rooms.
The Palace was built in 1827 by Naslr-ud-din.
Its walls and ceilings are decorated with plates of
silver, and are very magnificent. In the grand hall
my entertainment was presented to a large and
fashionable audience, and was a great success.
Cawnpore being so close to Lucknow, it is only
reasonable to suppose that would be my next camp-
ing ground and so leaving Lucknow at i-io Cawn-
pore was reached at 3-30. Unfortunately I became
very ill here, and although I managed to struggle
through my performance before a crowded audience,
had to keep my bed for the two following days.
My faithful 'nowker' Jairham Jugga, nursed me
splendidly and pulled me through. He was very
proud of a watch and chain which I gave him to
mark my appreciation of his devotion.
Cawnpore has few attractions for the traveller
except the interest one naturally takes in the
events connected with the Mutiny. The Memorial
Church, the Massacre Ghat and the Memorial
Well and Gardens, are the principal objects of
interest. Whilst here I had an opportunity of
seeing the Mango tree trick really well performed.
The juggler's name was Hassam Bux, who did the
trick several times and permitted me to take photo-
graphs whilst it was in progress. I shall have a
30 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
few words to say about Hassam Bux's peiformance
in my chapter on Hindoo jugglers.
My next place was Meerut which beyond being a
Cantonment Station and headquarters of a division
of the Army, has. very little to recommend it to the
notice of the traveller. There is a fine Club House,
the Whela Club, and a nice theatre attached to
it in which I gave a performance. It happened
that I had engaged the theatre and paid rent in
advance, and the night I was to have opened, was
that fixed for the Cantonment Ball which was also
to be held in the theatre. Being approached by the
Ball Committee I gave up the date, the result being
that everybody turned up at my performance the
next evening, and the place was packed. Moral,
'
always please the ladies !

My next point was Umballa where I met my

friend, the late General Penn Symons who hospitably
entertained me mess of the Gordon High-
at the
landers. I was indebted to the General for an intro-

duction to my afterwards great friend. His Highness

the Maharajah Patiala to whom I afterwards paid
such a notable visit.

His Highness the Maharajah of Kapurthala also

invited me to spend a little time in his State, and
accompanied by my secretary and four servants^ I
accordingly left Umballa and duly arrived at Kar-
tarpur. Carriages were awaiting us at the station,
and we drove about eight miles to the Palace, where
we were received by His Highness, who entertained
us with great hospitality for nearly a week.
The day after our arrival, we received an invita-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 31

tion to attend a Durbar, to be held during the

afternoon, and accordingly about four o'clock drove
to the Durbar Hall, on the outskirts of the native
city. A little later the Maharajah arrived in great
state attended by hundreds of his. retinue. Dozens
of gaily comparisoned elephants formed part of the
procession, as with bands playing, and to the firing
of cannon. His Highness entered.
The Hall is a fine, large, nearly square building,
built of stone, the interior white, and having a
gallery around three sides of it. At the end
opposite the entrance was a richly carpeted dais
with a step running the whole width of the Hall,
and in its centre stood a large gilt throne, a stained
glass window being in the background. Seated on
the floor of the hall were hundreds of natives of
different classes, divided into groups according to
their stations in life, and I also presume having
regard to the amount of wealth they possessed, the
richest being in positions nearest the throne, the
poorest tailing off to places near the entrance.
Each of the natives nursed what appeared to me to
be a white serviette, which I found afterwards con-
tained coin. The Maharajah was dressed in a smart
blue military uniform, beautifully embroidered with
gold, and wearing a large white turban, in front of
which was a magnificient diamond aigrette. He
also had a gold sword with diamond hilt, slung with
a white enamelled sword belt, and wore white kid
gloves, making a very imposing figure as he walked
majestically through the midst of the salaaming
natives, and took his place with great ceremony on
32 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the throne. There he sat immovable and impassive,
as if carved out of marble. He never moved a
hair's breadth for two solid hours, during which the
natives, commencing with the richest, offered their
'
nuzzar ' or tribute money. Salaaming and pro-
strating themselves at his feet, they emptied the

contents of their napkins reverently at his throne.

Hundreds and hundreds streamed past the
Maharajah in this way, a continual jingle of coin
going on the whole time, until at the end of the
ceremony the Maharajah was literally heaped up
with rupees. At the conclusion, not a word having
been spoken. His Highness rose, and walked
straight out of the Hall between the salaaming
crowds, who muttered prayers, and ejaculated
'
Maharaj Maharaj ! as he passed them.
!
'
His
departure was made with the same pomp as his
arrival, and to the firing of cannon and playing of
bands, he drove through the native city back to the
palace, whilst along the route thousands of his
subjects greeted him, and salaamed with the
greatest reverence.
The same evening I dined with His Highness at
his beautiful home called Buona Vista.' After '

dinner had the pleasure of giving a short

I

performance, and could scarcely believe that the

genial gentleman who was laughing and talking in
such a homely manner with me, was the same
stately, majestic, impassive, weird person who had
occupied the throne at the Durbar,
 CHAPTER VII

At Buona
'
had a long chat with one of
Vista ' I

His Highness's personal attendants who had been

lately raised to the rank of Captain. He was an
old man, very tall, and of good military appearance,
and informed me that he was in attendance on the
Maharajah at Her late Majesty Queen Victoria's
Jubilee celebrations. Also that whilst he was
walking through the Strand one evening someone
relieved him of his watch. He related this as
a good joke and seemed quite pleased to think that
one of our light fingered fraternity should have
so honoured him with his attention.
His Highness gave me some handsome presents
when I took leave of him, and with many regrets
we left for Kartarpur and thence for Lahore,
breaking our journey at the Holy City of Amritzar
to view the celebrated Golden Temple.
The staple industry of this city is the weaving of
Cashmere shawls, from the down of the Kashmir
goat. Some of the finest carpets in India are also,
woven in Amritzar. It is the centre of the Sikh
religion, and few cities of the world possess such &
beautiful square as that in the centre of which
is the sacred tank. The Golden Temple standsi in
 34 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the middle of the lake where it is reflected in the
still water like a beautiful jewelled casket.
I had allowed two days for Lahore, but business
warranted my staying eight My first performance
!

was given at the Railway Theatre, followed by

another at the Lawrence Hall the latter was ;

attended by the '

elite,' the hall was packed and
the booking of seats at Messrs Beran's the largest
ever known in Lahore.
After the performance was entertained by some
I

military gentlemen at the Punjab Club.

Before leaying I gave an entertainment at the
Aitchinson College, two at Mian Meer, a perform-
ance for children at the Town Hall, and a private
seance for a Rajah and his native friends. Every-
where I was entertained most royally, and occupied
my spare time in seeing all that was to be seen in
the way of mosques, tombs, and temples. A visit
to the Native City pleased me immensely, as some
of the old enamelled bricks and tiles and other
evidences of byegone days, and of a lost art, are
still visible. The narrow streets, marvellous tombs,
the Fort and Jumma Musjed indeed are sights not
to be forgotten. The city swarms with people,
amongst whom are numbers of stately but filthy
Afghans and Pathans who parade the dusty, evil
smelling and densely crowded bazaars. Before
taking my departure, I called upon my friend
Colonel Neville Chamberlain, who gave me introduc-
tions in Delhi which proved of the greatest service
when visiting that city.
Leaving Lahore at 10.15 a.m. we arrived at
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 35

Rajpoorah, and having three hours to wait, for; the.

branch line train, walked round the bazaars, and!
saw Major Eustace and party by
start -for Patiala
camel ghari, a kind of stage coach drawn by two
camels. It struck me as a curious-looking affair,

but a very suitable means of travelling over those

hot and dusty roads.
Eventually our train arrived, and we reached
Patiala at 9.30 p.m. His Highness had caused
excellent quarters to be prepared for us, at the
bungalow of his private secretary and steward, Mr
Wingrove, a gentleman whose acquaintance,
together with that of his charming wife, I was
delighted to make.
Of all the Sikh states Patiala is the most
important, having a population of a little over one
and a half millions, and a revenue of about ;^42o,ooo
annually.
The Maharajah I had the pleasure of knowing
personally we were on the most friendly terms,
;

and it was with the deepest regret that I heard of

his death, when I arrived at Aden, on my third
journey to India to visit His Highness.
There was no more loyal Prince in India than
the Maharajah of Patiala, the acknowledged head of
the Sikh nation^ and in recognition of the splendid
military services he rendered to the British Empire,
with his Sikh regiments, the flower of the nativd
Indian army, he was honoured by her late Majesty ,

Qiieen Victoria, by the investiture of the Grand

Order of the Star of India.
He was a very keen sportsman, being devoted to.
36 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
hunting, shooting, and fishing. He also took the
keenest interest in polo, his teams being composed
of some of the finest playefs in India, whilst to
cricket, tennis, and racquets he was an ardent
devotee. So enthusiastic was he in regard to our
national game that he engaged, for several years,
two of our most famous cricketers, Messrs. Brock-
well and Hearne, to coach his teams, in which His
Highness was a very fine bat himself. He could
also play a good game of billiards, Mr John Roberts,
the champion, being his tutor, and was fond of a
game of whist or bridge. He adopted photography
as a quiet hobby, some of his work being extremely
fine. As a host he was perfect, looking- after the
comforts and providing amusements for all his
guests. He entertained largely, and it rarely
happened that there were not any British ofificers
staying with him, enjoying His Highness's hospi-
tality, and that of the Rajindra Club.

During the Patiala race week, rows and rows of

marquees and tents were erected in the park
surrounding the Palace, there not being sufficient
accommodation in the guest houses, for all the ladies,
as well as gentlemen, who accepted His Highness's
invitation.
During this week
I gave several performances

in the pretty permanent theatre, erected in

little

the Palace grounds, His Highness's zenana being

present, of course in ' purdah.' He and his guests
were delighted, and he desired me to remain in
Patiala, and instruct him in the art of legerdemain
which I accordingly did. He was already a fairly
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 37

good amateur conjuror, and I found him a very

apt pupil. Whilst staying with him, he frequently
procured jugglers from distant parts of India, for
my special edification, thereby giving me an
opportunity of witnessing many tricks which I

could not'otherwise have seen.

 CHAPTER VIII

It was His Highness' desire that I should be

present at the celebration of the Holi Festival
which takes place once a year, in the month
Phagun (March) fifteen days before the full moon..
It is celebrated in honour of Krishna, and all sorts

of license are allowed. His Highness, I fancy,

scented a little fun, if he succeeded in getting me
to accompany him. However I did go, and
although it was very rough, and one had to
thoroughly enter into the spirit of the thing (it

being understood that no one, under any circum-

stances whatever, must lose his temper) the day
was most enjoyable, though one such experience
is quite sufficient for the most fastidious.

Early on the morning of the Holi, I went to

the Club, where I found many of the guests, who
were taking part in the ceremony for the first time.
We were each provided with a complete new suit
of Hindu garments, and our dressing was super-
tended by the Maharajah's own nowkers who
'
'

made up our turbans for us, and otherwise saw

that we were correctly attired. I rather think I
made a decent looking Hindoo at the start— —
was certainly cleaner than when I returned from
the proceedings. We had camels, elephants, and
38
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 39

pair horse hares (victorias) provided for us. I

was on an elephant, in a kind of box 'howdah,'

next the Maharajah, and we drove in procession,
about 200 in all, to the Palace in the native city,
,d. distance of about three miles. We were received
with great acclamation and reverence from the
natives, everybody salaaming most respectfully.
I was priding myself on its being quite a respect-
able function, but was woefully mistaken. The
fun had not begun Certain formalities had to be
!

gone through and the signal given.

We arrived at the Palace, where in the court-
yard, which was about 50 yards square, three sides
being packed with natives, was a long table about
'

50 feet in length, covered by a handsome shamiana '

or tent without walls. The table was crowded

with large circular gilt dishes, upon which were
piled pyramids of different coloured balls, the size
of oranges, and filled with Holi powder. In front
of the table was spread a large rich carpet,
and ranged along the upper side were gilt chairs
on either side of a large gilt throne. This the
Maharajah occupied, his brother the Kour Sahib
seated next him on one side, and on the other, the
Prime Minister. The generals occupied the re-
maining seats with the other members of His
Highness's retinue, ranged on either side of the
table. I stood immediately behind His Highness

and in my native costume, could hardly be dis-

tinguished from one of his suite. The Maharajah
-being seated, a troupe of Nautch girls came upon
the carpet, and to the accompaniment of native
40 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
music, went through some of those extraordinary
contortions,which it pleases them to call dancing.
It was weird, and very monotonous, but the scene

itself was dazzling in the extreme. The colours

of the various costumes, in the bright sunlight,
looked most brilliant, and the crowd gave one the
impression of being so clean, in their white muslin
costumes, dholies and turbans.
The dancing having finished, the Maharajah's
brother Kour Sahib, a tall handsome man with a

dark beard, wearing an enormous Sikh turban with

-aigrette, his white costume beautifully embroidered,
came and made
to the front of the table, salaamed,
obeisance to the Maharajah, who took one of the
balls, and threw it gently across the table, striking
Kour Sahib on the breast. The ball being made
of thin resin, and filled with Holi powder —a kind
of aniline dye, ground to the consistency of flour
— it broke, scattering the powder over his costume.
He in turn threw one at the Maharajah, and the
Prime Minister. Then there was a general
scramble, and in less time than it takes to write,
thousands of balls were flying about, their contents
being showered over the crowd. Next baskets full
of loosepowder were thrown over everybody by
handfuls. It was no good expostulating, the
moment one opened his mouth, somebody filled it
with powder. The battle grew furious, the whole
crowd taking part, when suddenly an enormous
stream of water from a fire engine drenched every-
body. The coloured powder becoming wet,
mingled together, until everybody was dyed in
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 41

variegated colours. Coloured water was squirted

in one's face from garden syringes, and once on
the skin, it was almost impossible to get it off
again.
After the battle had been raging for about half-
an-hour, it ceased by mutual consent and I thank-
;

fully resumed my place in the processionand

started to perambulate the city. But worse was
to come, for as we passed out of the palace gates,
we were deluged with streams of coloured water
from the hose of a fire-engine, stationed on each
side of the gates, balls of powder were smashed
upon us, and filth of every description hurled at
us, by the thousands of people who were assembled
in the streets, through which we had to run the

gauntlet. The procession, at times, was purposely

impeded by the crowd, so that we might get the
full benefit of their attentions. Buckets and large
tin baths full of filth, and bath-room refuse were

emptied upon us, from the tops of the houses,

whilst we were pelted with mud, and manure by
the crowd below. The howdah in which I was
seated, was up to my knees in water and filth of
the most repulsive nature. Fortunately I was
wearing the enormous Sikh turban, which although
soaked through, I kept well pulled down, and by
partly covering my face and ears with my hands,
and keeping my mouth tightly closed, protected
myself as well as I was able, and endured this
purgatory for nearly four miles, with as good a
grace as possible under the circumstances. The
shrieking crowd together with the din of bells,
42 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
drums and gongs which they beat the whole time,
made the place more than ever like a pandemonium.
At length we were clear of the city, but still
accompanied by the howling mob, we arrived at
the Moti Bagh, the lovely private gardens of the
old Rajahs. The procession entered by one of the
gateSj the yelling crowd being beaten and kept back
by the soldiers on guard at the entrance. When we
had all passed through, the gates closed behind us,
and the fun commenced anew. First we were
most unceremoniously pitched into the tank which
runs through the gardens. As the water was
beautifully clean, this was quite a treat, for our
clothes were by this means washed, and soon
became dry under the rays of the broiling sun.
The nautch girls accompanying and forming part
of the procession, were not exempt, from thfs
treatment. They also were thrown into the water,
and indeed every other member of the party who
did nbt jump in voluntarily,, was cast in by his
companions. There were some tents erected in
the gardens, in which a liberal amount of wine and
cognac was consumed to prevent our taking cold.
The Maharajah made his re-appearance in a new
costume, which was immediately drenched with a
stream of coloured water from a hand engine.
There was more throwing of balls of powder, more
ducking ini the tank and more drying of clothes,
the afternoon being concluded with a nautch dance,
which was kept up until about 6 p.m. Finally we
drove back to the palace to our own bungalows
in gharis provided, where we found our own
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 43

servants had prepared warm baths, but no amount

of scrubbing would remove the stains.
I was dyed a deep scarlet all over my body, and

itwas fully a month before it was entirely removed

from my face and hands.
His Highness the Maharajah treated me with the
greatest kindness during my sojourn in his state.
I attended his polo and sticking parties, joined
pigi

him in the cheetah hunting, alligator shoots, and on

some of his fishing expeditions. ^

Before I left. His Highness presented me with

some very valuable gifts, together with two
excellent signed photographs of himself wearing the
Irobes of theOrder of the Star of India, promising
to meet me at
Dholpur, having given me an intro-
duction to the Maharana, of whom I shall speak
later on. So I took leave of His Highness and
his suite and proceeded to Delhi the next city in
my itinerary. Here Colonel Neville Chamberlain's
introductions proved a veritable '
open sesame
everywhere.
 CHAPTER IX

Arriving at Delhi, I went straight to Ludlow

Castle, a building historically associated with the
Mutiny, being the upon which was placed the
site

celebrated battery which made a breach in the

Kashmir Gate bastion. The castle is now occupied
by the Delhi Club, of which I was made an
honorary member, and where by the kindness of
the committee I had the pleasure of presenting
my entertainment.
In touching lightly upon the business side of my
visit, I will content myself by stating that I gave
performances at the Rama Theatre, the entertain-
ment being greatly appreciated by the natives, and
the returns showing a very handsome profit.
Delhi isone of the oldest historical cities in the
world, dating back nearly two thousand years before
the Christian era. For architectural beauty and
historical associations it ranks with many of the
ancient ruins of Europe. The modern city, which
is called Shahjahanatad, or New Delhi, abuts on

the River Jumna, the waters of which flow

beneath the walls of the celebrated fort, or
which was in times gone by, the Imperial Palace
of the Mughals, in its glory, probably the most
splendid palace in the world. To enumerate and
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 45

describe all the marvellous buildings and sights to

be found in Delhi would in itself fill a large volume,

but one may mention en passant the Dewan-i-am
'
'

or private hall of audience, in the centre of which

once stood the celebrated Peacock Throne, reputed
tohave cost five millions sterling. From the dainty,
jewel-like building, the Moti Musjid or Pearl
Mosque, also the Jama Musjia without rival —
—
among mosques which is a magnificent building,
having a courtyard 450 feet square, from the
summit of its lofty minarets, the finest view of Delhi
can be obtained. No one can walk through the
Chandui Chauk without being struck by its business-
like appearance. It is one of the finest streets in

India, is nearly a mile long and is seventy-four feet

broad. The shops are principally for the sale of
gold and silver embroidery, metal work, enamels
and jewellery, and are well worth a visit.
To the Englishman, of course, the battlefields
and scenes of the famous siege of 1857, had
a peculiar fascination. The Kashmir Gate, the
Memorial Church, a miniature St
looking like
Paul's Cathedral, the cemetery, the ridge and the
Institute are particularly interesting. Outside the
Institute is a huge stone elephant, brought to Delhi
from Gwalior in 1645. This I found a very fine
advertising station formy business, as may be seen
by the position of my announcements, shown in the
accompanying picture.
The old city of Delhi, of which only the ruins are
to be seen, is twelve miles from the modern city,
and is well worth a visit. The magnificent tower
46 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the Kutb Minar, is a grand monument of victory,
238 feet high, and encrusted with chapters of the
Koran. I shall not easily forget the weary trudge
to its summit, but when there, we were amply repaid
for our labour. A splendid view of the whole Delhi
plain spreads out before one like a map, on which
can be picked out amongst the ruins of vanished

My bills at Delhi

empires, the mosques, tombs, and relics, and indeed

all that now remains of the ancient city.
One of the most curious antiquities of India is the
Iron pillar, a solid shaft of wrought iron over
16 inches in diameter and 23 feet 8 inches in length.
The date of its erection is between a.d. 360-400.
It weighs six tons, and it is marvellous to think that
the Hindoos at that time could forge an iron bar,
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 47

larger and heavier than any forged in Europe until a

very recent date. Near the Kuth Minar is a well
90 feet deep and about 15 feet in diameter down
which the natives dive into only 15 feet of water.
It is perfectly horrifying to witness them spring

into this dark shaft, and to watch the body and the
reflection at the bottom of the well gradually coming
together, and with a fearful splash, disappear. A
touch on the side of the well would mean instant
death, and yet they are content to risk their lives
over and over again for a few paltry annas.
One evening I left Maiden's Hotel, on my way to
the Club House, where I was to give a short
performance. It was necessary for me to cross the

compound to reach the gate of the circular carriage

drive by which I should get to the main road.
Halfway across in the moonlight I saw a terrible
looking animal stalking along the path towards me.
It was on its face, white
black, with patches of white
stripes on its chest, an enormous tail, about 6 feet
long, and all the movements of a huge baboon. It

was the most diabolical beast I have ever seen, and

when I advanced, it walked towards me, when I
stopped, it stopped. Discretion seemed the better
part of valour, so I turned quickly, and went round
the other path. To my astonishment, the creature
turned also and came round the other way to meet
me. On it came, closer and closer, its tail flourishing

about in the air. I did not like the look of things at

all, and must admit I was a little bit frightened.
My first thought was to have a smack at it with the
stick I was carrying, when, suddenly a bright idea
48 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
occurred to me. In my bag of tricks, which I had
with me, I carry a small Lefaucheux revolver, and
invariably have it loaded with blank cartridges. I

took it from my bag and, walking towards the beast,

fired. It sprang into the air with a fearful yell, and
with enormous leaps and bounds towards me, sank
upon the ground at my feet. At that moment two
'
nowkers engaged at the hotel, hearing the report,
'

and seeing the creature lying there, seized hold of it,

when it stood up on its hind legs and proved to be
a native montebank, dressed and painted to resemble
a huge monkey, who imitated animals as a means of
gaining a livelihood. He certainly was clever, the
semblance to the movements of an enormous
baboon being perfect. He frightened me consider-
ably, but I fancy he had the greater fright of the
two. I gave him a rupee, and in return he
performed the most life-like imitation of a monkey I
had even seen.
How delighted poor Charlie Laurie would have
been to see such an artist.
 CHAPTER X
Sir Pertab Singh had invited me to visit his
nephew the Maharajah of Jodhpur, so after a twenty-
six hour railway journey, during which the heat was
too awful for words we crossed the desert, which
was as much like a bone yard as anything else I
could imagine. We arrived more dead than alive at
the Guest House, Jodhpur, where the first thing I

did was to call for a peg,'

'
and didn't I want it badly.
I was too thirsty to speak the truth ; I had a thirst
I wouldn't have taken a '
pound '
for ! Only those
who have experienced such extreme heat can fully
appreciate the value of a 'peg' with 'baraf.' For
the information of the uninitiated, I will disclose
the secret of the concoction. Take a half wine
good Scotch whisky, place it carefully into
glass of
a long tumbler, and add thereto a bottle of iced
Schweppe (if it can be procured) otherwise any
other belatle pani will do, and there you have
'
'

your 'peg.' As the delightful nectar flows between

the lips, it hisses down the parched throat, steam
issues therefrom, a strange desire comes over the
quaffer to bite a piece out of the glass, and the
'peg' is finished. In this intense heat, could a
better refresher be possibly imagined. After getting
D 49
50 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
comfortably settled In the quarters provided for us,

and having also refreshed ourselves with a warm

bath, we went to the palace to pay our respects to
the Maharajah, and Sir Pertab Singh. Unfortunately
the Maharajah had just been vaccinated, so we did
not see him, but were received by Sir Pertab in a
manner to be expected from so charming and genial
a gentleman. Before leaving it was arranged that
I should give a performance before His Highness

and suite, the next evening at the palace.

As we were returning to the guest hotise we
were overtaken by a terrific dust storm. I had
noticed the wind blowing up a little as if something
unusual was about to happen. Soon, in the
distance, an enormous black cloud appeared, and
the atmosphere began to get yellow and misty.
As the storm came nearer it grew darker, and
presently with a fearful rushing noise accompanied
by intense heat, the terrible cloud of dust was upon
us. Sweeping along, a perfectly blinding hurricane,
and causing us to experience a peculiar stifling
sensation, almost akin to suffocation, it became
quite black, and impossible for us to distinguish
objects even but a few feet distant. The storm
lasted fully fifteen minutes,and we were fortunately
able to take shelter in a small hut, or our experience
might have been attended by more unpleasant
consequences. Beyond the pleasure of visiting
His Highness, I saw nothing which particularly
charmed me in Jodhpur. The native quarter
consists of a peculiar old city, the streets of which
are very hilly and steep. There is a fine fort
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 51

with huge gates, studded with long iron spikes,

said to be for the purpose of preventing elephants
from battering them down. It is built on the top
of a high rocky eminence 800 feet high, and
reminded me very much of the kind of place, where,
as I used in my childhood to read in the story of
Jack the Giant Killer, the giant must have dwelt.
There were high frowning battlements, immense
rocks and precipices, the whole forming a most
inaccessible looking castle, from which one would
almost expect to see the giant emerge, and com-
mence some of his little frolics among the
natives.
'
I could get no laundry work done in Jodhpur,
for the poor wretch of a dhobie would not promise
' '

it under a week or ten days, as the nearest water

tank was twelve miles distant.

The heat was so bad that it was almost impossible
'

to exist either day or night without wet Khuskhus '

at each door or window, these being a kind of rush

screen, which a coolie keeps wet from the outside
and so what little air there is, and makes the
cools
heat a little more endurable. Turning to my diary
I find a note that Jodhpur seems to be a most
uncivilised kind of place, the last place in the
world to be desired as a permanent address.
How the poor wretches of natives live I cannot
imagine.
After one more visit to the palace, when the
Maharajah took me to inspect his fine stables, I took
leave of His Highness, who gave me a large signed
photograph of himself together with other valuable
 52 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
presents, and at 7 p.m., I departed ' without a
pang' for Jeypore. I had no professional engage-
ment was very anxious to see the capital
there, but
of Rajputana, and visit the now ruined and deserted
city of Amber, the former capital until 1728.
Jeypore is remarkable for its fine streets, the most
important being 1 1 1 feet wide, whilst the smaller
are from 50 to 55 feet, very few even of the slums
being less than 28. The city is laid out on the
American plan, the streets running at right angles
to each other. Its surrounding scenery is very
fine, ranges of lofty hills crossing the country. The
town itself lies in the midst of rugged hills crowned
with forts. At the end of the ridge overhanging
the city is the '
tiger fort,' and in the scarping of
the ridge blocks of marble rock, forming the word
•
welcome huge letters can be seen from the city.
'
in
My first day was spent in an enjoyable excursion
to Amber, and its celebrated Amber Palace about
six miles distant.
I went over the palace, through the zenana,
all

and visited the small sacrificial temple^ where every

day in pre-historic times, human sacrifices were
offered. A goat is now sacrificed daily at 8.30 a.m.,
thus still preserving the tradition. The ruined city
is quite deserted except for a few Hindoo fakirs and
ascetics who have taken possession of some of the
empty houses.
Of Maha-
the places of interest in Jeypore, the
rajah's Palace, the College, the Hall of the Winds
(which is now used as a zenana, and of which
Sir Edwin Arnold says 'Aladdin's magician could
 ) '

A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 53

have called into existence no more marvellous

abode.'
The public gardens, menagerie and museum are
most worthy of mention. I visited the Maharajah's
stables, where I found some ancient and curious
carriages, a fine stud of nearly four hundred superb
horses, and nearly a hundred elephants. Extensive

The Holy Elephant

preparations were being made to celebrate a Fete in

honour of the Goddess of Wealth, and the elephants
were painted all over with gorgeous devices, and
exquisitely decorated with paint and gold and silver
leaf and tinsel silver bells were round their necks
;

and feet, and beautifully embroidered howdah'

cloths hung from their sides. A splendid procession

was formed, and in state the Maharajah paraded his
54 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
beautiful city, thousands of people occupying the
streets, house-tops, and every place of vantage,
eager to obtain a glimpse of their ruler.
Adjoining the Palace is a large tank containing
the sacred alligators. On opening an iron door a
flight of stone steps is discovered leading to the
water. One of the attendants offered us seats in-
side the door, on the top of the steps so that we
might witness the feeding of the creatures. He
then went to the slaughter house and procured a
large mass of bullocks' entrails, which he attached
to a long rope, and in response to his shouting
shrieking and whistling, swarms of loathsome
reptiles appeared on the surface of the water and
swam slowly to the steps sticking out their ugly
snouts and gaping wide their white mouths and cruel
jaws. One enormous brute opened wide his fearful
jaws, the attendant threw the offal into its mouth,
which closed with a horrid snap as the alligator sank
slowly beneath the water. But the man held on to
the rope and then commenced a kind of tug-of-war.
The beast appeared again on the surface, opened its
jaws for a moment to get a firmer hold of the offal,
when the attendant with a sharp pull, jerked the
dainty morsel out of its mouth. This the attendant
repeated several times, untilhuge monster
the
became so infuriated, that it commenced
to come up
the steps after its tormentor. In two seconds there
were two empty chairs at the top of the steps, and
two persons, my secretary and myself, were on the
Palace side of the iron door ! The attendant there-
upon threw the offal to the brute once more, other-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 55

wise he himself might have been the ' dainty

morsel.'
was extremely pleased with my visit to this city,
I

so much cleaner and with wider streets than most

cities of India, and I place Jeypore as the best Indian

city I have yet seen.

 CHAPTER XI

With mingled feelings of relief and pleasure, I

arrived at Agra. After the terrible heat of Jodhpur,
the change which was considerable, was most
agreeable, and Caurie's Hotel, where I stayed,
extremely comfortable. In relating my 'travels
history I feel now confronted with the danger of
'

making my experiences appear shoppy,' and speak-

'

ing too much of my business affairs, or developing

into an uninteresting guide book style, which I
desire to avoid ; but it is impossible to visit this city
for the first time without being impressed with the
number and magnitude of the tombs, mosques, and
forts, which have been erected regardless of cost, by

the Emperors of by-gone days, and in the produc-

tion of which such fabulous wealth and enormous
labour have been expended. It is not necessary to
describe in detail all these creations of surpassing
grandeur, that having been already done in nearly
every standard work on India, but the name of
Agra conjures up me
a vision of one of the
before
most beautiful buildings the world has ever seen,
the '
Taj Mahal by the Emperor the Shah
' built

Jehan as a resting-place for his beloved Queen.

It is a building of dazzling white marble, two
56
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 57

hundred and thirty-five years old, but looking as if

it had just been completed and out of the workmen's

hands but yesterday. Upwards of twenty thousand

persons were employed in its construction, which
took seventeen years to complete. Its cost is

variously stated, but I learned that three million

pounds was expended on the building, and

The Taj Mahal, Agra

precious stones, to the value of another three

millions, were used by the inlayers to adorn the
structure.
Entering the garden, which is a third of a mile
square, in which this dream in marble is placed,
'
'

and passing through an avenue of cypresses, amidst

orange and lemon trees, palms, pomegranates and
flowering shrubs, stands this Peerless Tomb,' '
58 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
reflected in marble fish ponds, brilliant in the
golden robes of the noonday sun. The Taj stands
upon a plinth eighteen feet above the level of the
gardens. Mounting this platform, a splendid view
of the river Jumna is obtained, and one realizes the
true magnitude of the lovely edifice on its bank.
Reverently entering the burial place of the
Princess Arjamand, where also the Emperor Shah
Jehan is laid to rest in a tomb, side by side with
that of his beloved wife, the first object to enchant
the eye is the double screen, of beautifully pierced
marble, of lace like trellis-work which surrounds the
tombs. A closer inspection reveals the elaborate
embellishments. Upon the columns, panels, and
trellis-work, graceful designs of lotus stems, leaves,
and buds, are worked in a mosaic of
petals, flowers,
precious stones and gems of almost indescribable
loveliness. The tombs are also beautified with
dainty designs of flowers of every description, the
inlaid work being almost unrivalled in the whole
world, and representing an exhibition of patience
almost impossible to imagine. Retracing one's
steps through the lovely garden, under the shade of
the palms and Thuga trees, the air laden with the
perfume of roses and jasmine, one takes last linger-
ing looks at the beauty of the white cupola floating
above the peepul trees, like a fairy structure, and is
filled with wonder, admiration and delight.

The Maharajah of Khetri engaged me to enter-

tain his family and suite at the Palace, where I gave
my performance in the large Durbar Hall. His
Highness and children were seated on a couch in
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 59

front of me, the zenana being of course in 'purdah,'

whilst his retinueand followers, numbering about 250
were seated all around me on the floor. The various
tricks and illusions were much enjoyed, but it was
curious to notice the look of surprise upon the faces
of His Highness's followers as they watched me.
Some of them were positively frightened, and the
climax was reached when I performed the well-
known trick of catching money. Apparently
handsful of rupees came from the air, and I dropped
them into a tall silk hat. I picked rupees from off
their whiskers and turbans, and shook rupees from
the sleeves of those who wore coats. In fact rupees
were found in every conceivable place where rupees
are not usually to be found, until some of the natives
became so terrified that first one would rise, and
slowly creep out of the Hall, then another and
another would go, and still the silver shower con-
tinued. I shook one man's turban cloth and twenty

or thirty rupees fell into the hat. He snatched the

cloth from my hand and rushed horror-stricken out
of the Hall, much to the amusement of the
Maharajah. Still I continued to cktch rupees, until
the crown of the hat bulged out with the weight of
five hundred of them. Shaking them up in the
hat I dived my hand in again and again, and taking
out a handful each time, allowed streams of silver
coins to fall making it appear that
back into the hat,

that there was a greater number than was really the

case. Before the trick was concluded there were,
besides the Maharajah and his family, only fourteen
natives left in the Hall ! They disappeared terrified.
6o A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
declaring I was a Shaitan Wallah, and under the
'
'

influence of the 'evil one.' Only a few of them were

induced to return, to witness the remainder of my
programme. At the conclusion of my performance,
after having taken leave of His Highness, I passed
through some of the passages of the Palace on the
way to my ghari.' There was quite a stampede of
'

natives, who ran from me in fear. None of them

would permit me to come near them, for fear I
should place them under some kind of spell. It

occurred to me as being very strange, that of all the

tricks I performed throughout India, catching
money in the air caused most astonishment, and in
some cases fear, the reason being, I suppose, that
the majority of natives so seldom get a rupee of
their own, that they imagine a person must be
a 'devil man' who is able to stretch out his hand
whenever he likes, and catch a handful from space.
To leave Agra without seeing the Fort would
have been to court the reproach of my friends.
Certainly some of the most magnificent buildings
of the Moguls are situated within its walls, mark-
ing as they do the halycon days of the Mogul
dynasty. On the terrace of the Machchi Bhawan
is a black marble slab, which has a large fissure in
a portion of its surface, which at certain periods is

said to bleed. The legend is that the slab was

used as a Mahometan throne, and when the king
was deposed and a Hindoo upon it, the stone
sat
cracked, and blood oozed out. Whilst we were
examining the slab, a few drops of rain fell. This
certainly emphasised the stain and made it look
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 6i

redder than it usually does, but I am inclined to

think that the presence of some kind of combination
of iron in the marble accounts for the blood-like
appearance, rather than the reason ascribed to it by
the superstitious natives. 'Lo! the poor Indian,'
never misses a chance !

We were conducted through dark underground

passages to a vaulted chamber, in the centre of
which was a well, communicating with the river
Jumna, whose waters flow outside the walls of the
Fort. We were informed that when the Emperor
desired to rid himself of a Avife with whom he had
quarrelled, she was conducted in state to this
chamber, the other wives being already seated
around the well A silk cord was placed round the
:

victim's neck, and she was gently suspended from

a beam over the opening of the well, whilst
her dear lord and master expatiated upon the
enormity of her conduct. He then severed the silk
cord with his sword, and the victim was precipitated
to the bottom of the pit, and washed into the Jumna,
tobe torn to pieces and devoured by alligators.
With this cheerful proceeding always in view, the
life of a Rajah's wife in those days could not be
truthfully considered a very happy one.' '

There no lack of mosquitoes in Agra, and

is

although they are 'as large as chickens,' I would

rather deal with them than the flies, of which there
are myriads, and which, as tormentors, easily '
take
the first you are fortunate enough to
place.' If

possess a decent head of hair, it becomes so wiry

and dry, by reason of the terrific heat, that it is
62 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
in danger of blazing up at the slightest provocation,
but if any kind of pomade or wash be used to soften
the hair, it becomes at once a great source of attrac-
tion to the merry fly
'
who does not forget to give
'
;

you the full benefit of his attentions. Just sit down

for a moment to write, and the fly will then be in
his glory. He will first promenade your head and
neck, then perambulate your ear, tickle, tickle, worry,
worry ! You make ineffectual attempts to drive him
away, but his perseverance is remarkable, and cer-
tainly worthy of a better cause. Then he scampers
over your hand (generally the one that holds the
pen), and if you try to hit him, you are sure to miss,
and in an instant he is back again on the same place.
His audacity is marvellous, and his defiance of you
irritating to a degree. He simply won't go away,
but buzzes and stings when you are least expecting
him. You get hotter and hotter, you say words in
a foreign tongue which in your wildest dreams you
otherwise would not think of using, you foam at
the mouth, you writhe in agony, become furious,
desperate, maddened, and in despair rush out of
the place for the nowker who with his flappers is
'
'

the only person who can rid you of this tyrant.

Whilst in India I suffered more discomfort from
flies, than I did from tigers

Now the mosquito is a cheerful and considerate

soul, and you can argue with him. His attentions
are generally shown at night, when he endeavours
with his sweet note, to lure you into slumber. But
once you are properly ensconced within the mosquito
curtains, you can hear the gentle creature humming
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 63

his sweet music, and defy him. You can lie on

your bed, and make faces at him, secure in the
knowledge that you are out of the reach of his
poisonous dart.
by any chance a mosquito should be found
If
within the curtains before retiring to rest, you
promptly stop four annas of your boy's pay, and
'
'

it will not occur again. The mosquito is considerate

inasmuch as he alights gently upon that part of the
body for which he has developed a liking, and
departs, before you are aware of his presence or
have discovered you have been wounded, thereby
saving you the irritation and annoyance you some-
times experience at the hands, or rather the feet,

of his friend the fly. When bitten by a mosquito,

apply a drop of strong ammonia to the spot, and
the effect will be magical. To prevent being bitten,
smear the exposed parts of the body with vaseline,
and though you may look like a human fly paper
in the morning, well, no matter Don't smear the
!

vaseline too thickly, or you may catch bats

 CHAPTER XII

Bidding adieu to Agra, I duly arrived at Dholpur,

where I was engaged by the Maharana to present
my entertainment. I drove at once to the guest
house, and found I had the same apartments allotted
to me as were occupied by His Royal Highness the
Prince of Wales in 1876. The heat was terrible,
and it was impossible to leave the house in comfort
until the sun had gone down, the slightest exertion
being beyond endurance. After dinner, accom-
panied by my secretary, I drove to the Palace,
about seven miles distant, and then gave a per-
formance to the Maharana and his guests, the ladies
being as usual in 'purdah.' My entertainment
lasted about two hours, and after partaking of some
refreshment^ we returned in one of the Maharana's
carriages. When we had driven about half the
distance a wheel came off, and we were bumped
into the road and delayed rather more than an
hour, searching for it. Eventually we were able
to. proceed and arrived at the guest house at 3 a.m.

not much the worse for our accident.

The next morning, the Maharana sent a special
messenger requesting me to attend at the Palace
again that evening and give another entertainment
before the Maharanee and the ladies of the zenana,
64
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 65

this time in the drawing-room without 'purdah.'

This, was given to understand, was an exceed-
I

ingly great honour for an Indian prince to bestow

upon me, inasmuch as no male person but the
Maharana and his son is permitted to gaze upon
the Maharanee and the other zenana ladies. I

have never heard of a similar privilege having

been accorded, and believe this to be the first time
such a departure from the usual custom has been
permitted. It was indeed a matter of great concern

in the state, as it broke down all tradition. My

secretary even, was not permitted accompany
to
me. Arriving at the Palace at 9 o'clock, I was
kept sitting in the carriage near the entrance
until 11-30. All the servants, retainers, and
followers were out in the Palace grounds which
were patrolled by soldiers armed with old rifles and
bayonets fixed. It may be well to state that there
was absolutely no danger as the rifles could not be
discharged, having neither locks nor hammers
Presently, thinking to stretch my legs, I alighted
from the carriage, and strolled slowly across the
square. I was passing a flight of stone steps leading
from the terrace, when
shadow a huge
out of the
tiger suddenly sprang at me. I never had such a
shock in my life. My blood seemed to curdle, but
fortunately for me the brute was chained, and I was
just beyond the length of the chain, or I am afraid
there would have been no show that night. Later
'
'

I discovered that there were usually two tigers, one

chained on either side of the steps Needless to !

say I lost no time in getting back to my carriage,

E
66 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
where it was some time before I recovered from the
fright.
About an hour after this incident, I was con-
ducted by an eunuch into the Palace. All the
corridors and windows were closely screened with
'
tatties and all the blinds drawn, so that it was
'

impossible to surreptitiously see within. I was

shown into the drawing-room, which was about
sixty feet long and forty feet wide, beautifully
furnished in modern European style, quite a con-
trast to the gorgeous specimens of the very worst
kind of decoration, often found in the Palaces of
the native princes. Upon one of the walls, set out
in was a splendid collection of war
glass cases,
medals of Great Britain and other nations, in
which the Maharana takes a great pleasure. At
one end of the room, the end nearest the door by
which I had entered, was a large screen, placed
there for my use, and at the other about fifty chairs
placed in four semi-circular rows. Having made
all my preparations, the Maharana entered, and
enquired if I were ready to receive the ladies. I

replied in the he left and returned

affirmative,
immediately with the Maharanee, to whom I was
formally introduced. Her
Highness was ex-
ceedingly handsome, and beautifully dressed in
semi- European costume. She glittered from head
to foot with diamonds, and ropes of pearls of
fabulous value. She shook hands with me and
was conducted to her seat by the Maharana. Then
next came two little boys, or girls ; I am not quite
sure even now which they were. They were
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 67

handsomely dressed in embroidered silks, and were

ablaze with diamonds, some of them of enormous
size. Then followed all the ladies of the zenana,
all wearing a profusion of
magnificently attired,
priceless jewels. His Highness introduced me
separately to them as they entered the room.
Some would not come near me, others approached
me very timidly and hurried to their seats, I

suppose they had never before seen a live wizard,

and my own innate modesty must have been very
conspicuous under such a trying ordeal. It was

quite half an hour after I had commenced my

performance before they had quite become reconciled
to me, and had overcome their timidity. They
appeared to take the lead from the Maharanee, who
occasionally spoke some words of encouragement
to them. At length their reserve was broken and
occasionally they laughed quite heartily, and
exhibited intense wonderment at the denouement of
some of my tricks. The performance lasted nearly
two hours, and they seemed to wish me to continue.
In fact I had some difficulty in concluding as they
became so demonstrative and evinced such childish
delight. They were not satisfied until at last the
Maharana promised a repetition of my entertain-
ment the next evening. Her Highness thanked
me through her husband for the amusement I had
afforded and congratulating me most heartily, she
shook hands and retired, followed by the remainder
of the party. The Maharana desired me to come
on the following evening, but unfortunately the
Maharanee was taken sick with fever, necessitating
68 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
her removal to another part of the state, so that
the second performance before the Zenana did not
take place. Before leaving the state His Highness
gave me some valuable presents, including a
handsome ruby and pearl necklace for my wife.
The next day or two were spent with the
Maharajah Patiala, whom I continued to instruct
in legerdemain. I went on several fishing and
shooting excursions with His Highness, who did
all in his power to make my visit to Dholpur

enjoyable. Also I must record my grateful thanks

to His Highness the Kour Sahib of Patiala for
his many kindnesses during my sojourn in his
brother's State.
 CHAPTER XIII

Having a few days to spare previous to my re-

in Bombay, my secretary and I decided
appearance
to break our journey at Gwalior ; feeling it almost
a matter of duty to visit that historic city.

The great fortress, situated on a mighty range

of rocks 400 feet above the surrounding plain,
stands out in bold relief, presenting a formidable
appearance, and, viewed from the railway, is the most
commanding feature in the landscape, everything
around seeming, in comparison, to sink into
insignificance. On arrival we found a dak bungalow
situated in the station compound, and, with the
limited accommodation at our disposal, made our-
selves as comfortable as possible under the circum-
stances. Myexperience of dak bungalows and
rest houses by no means small, but I am inclined
is

to think that this was the very worst appointed,

and afforded less comfort, than any I have been
compelled to patronize during my travels in India.
It had been allowed to fall into such a state of

dilapidation that it was scarcely habitable. The

poor miserable '
Khansamah ' moped about the
place like a shadow, and neither offered nor gave
us any attention whatever we simply walked in
;

and took possession, and he left us to our own

69
70 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
devices. Food was out of the question, as far as
he was concerned, but as my boy always took '
'

the precaution to have a supply of biscuits and

a whiskey peg on hand in case of an emergency,
we refreshed ourselves with the best of our own
commissariat department, before retiring for the
night. The room I occupied was about ten feet
-square, with dirty whitewashed walls, in which
there were holes on the floor level, communicating
with the exterior of the hut. In places the plaster
had cQme away, exposing patches of crumbling
bricks, there were also several holes near the roof,
which seemed to be inhabited by all kinds of
creeping things. There was an opening where
a door might have once been, but alas there was !

no door. Perhaps that was an advantage, as the

place swarmed with mosquitoes and squirrels that
played hide and seek with each other in and out
of the holes in the wall. These were no doubt
provided as a source of amusement, in the event
of the weary traveller not being able to sleep
a very probable contingency. In the middle of
the room was a kind of skeleton bench, about
three feet wide, from the frame of which was
stretched a dirty canvas. Upon this my boy '

placed my razai and sheets, and so made up my

'
'

bed. There was an apology for a punkah in '

'

the shape of a dirty old rag, suspended in the middle

of the room. My
'boy' procured from the station
a poor wizened old bag of bones —whether man or
woman I am not sure —who was to act as '
punkah
wallah ' for the night. I pitied the poor creature.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 71

fated to squat outside all night pulling away at

the knotted bit of old rope attached to the '
fly
flapper ' over the bed.
At length I retired, and enduring for some time
the shrieks of the mosquitoes as they howled in my
ears, and suffering intensely from the torments of
their grew drowsy, the monotony of the
bites, I

swinging punkah sending me to sleep. After a

' '

while I awoke in a fearful perspiration, the punkah '

'

had stopped, and I concluded that the poor bit of

humanity outside was settled comfortably in the
arms of Morpheus. Suddenly the 'rag' began to
sway violently backwards and forwards again, and
I felt that every pull of the cord sent a cold
draught of air over my
sudden chill is
body. A
most dangerous, and I decided to take no more
risk, so dismissed the poor wretch, and did without

the 'punkah.' But sleep was then out of the

question, so after enduring the torment of the
mosquitoes a little while longer, I left this palatial
bed-chamber, lighted a cheroot, and in my pyjamas
strolled around the compound. I could find no
signs of my distinguished secretary anywhere, and
concluded he had gone to the railway station
waiting-room in sheer desperation but judge of ;

my surprise when at daybreak I found him com-

fortably asleep in a long sleeve chair on the roof
—
and no bad judge^ he always had a happy knack
of finding out the best places, my own perspicacity
in these matters being. terribly at fa:ult.

'
At six a.m., having obtained a pass from the
ofiice of the residency, we drove to 'the fort. At
72 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the foot of the scarped precipice, we embarked on
board an elephant, kindly provided by the Maharajah
for the convenience of visitors, and commenced a
circuitous journey up this precipituous mountain of
sandstone. The path in some places was exceed-
ingly narrow, and looking down from the back of
the hathi
'
caused a sensation of dizziness which
'

was far from pleasant. However the elephant was

sure-footed —
it was not the first time he had done

the journey. About half-way up the path, we

passed what we were told was the oldest temple in
India, and I believed it. I was glad I had seen it,

it was something to brag about. Cut out of the

solid rock, it looked as though it would be an object
of curiosity to travellers for many years after my
head had finished aching.
We arrived at the flat-topped summit, and found
a table-land nearly two miles long and about 2,ooo
feet wide in the broadest part. A rampart
surrounds this venerable fortress, which is con-
sidered one most impregnable in India.
of the
Many a siege has it survived, and much of its power
to resist attack is owing to the precipitous nature
of the rock, and to its never-failing water supply.
On the summit, within the ramparts, there are six
palaces, and many fine Jain and Hindu temples,
the Sas Bahu perhaps being the finest. The
gigantic rock-cut Jain sculptures, excavated in the
steep cliff, are marvels of production, some of these
coloured figures being sixty feet in height, the
inscriptions notifying the fact that their formation
dates back to a.d. 1440. An extensive view is
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 73

obtained from the summit of the rock, but the old

town nesthng in the shadow of this isolated cliff
underneath the eastern haze is nothing but an
accumulation of dirty old houses. The plains on
all sides, brown and arid, stretch far away in the
distance.
We left Gwalior by the mail at 11-30 a.m. and
arrived at Bombay the next day at 4 p.m. I had

made the acquaintance of so many friends on my

previous visit that I found my time fully occupied,
keeping tiffin and dinner engagements, but I gave
a performance at the Yacht Club and one at the
Bombay and the Byculla Club previous to my
leaving for Baroda.
 CHAPTER XIV
WniiN I first Bombay, His Highness the
visited
Gaekwar of Baroda was present at my initial per-
formance. 'On its conclusion, he received me in the

private room set apart in the theatre for the use of

His Highness, and congratulated me, inviting me
to pay a visit to his State, whenever an opportunity
presented itself, which it soon did.
On my arrival I found a fine equipage awaiting
me at the and I was at once driven to the
station,
guest house, where a suite of apartments were
placed at my disposal. At the time of my arrival.
His Highness, who is an ardent sportsman, had not
yet returned from a shooting expedition, but I was
enabled in the meantime to glean many interesting
details concerning the city. Baroda has a population
of about 1 20,000. There is a business-like air about
the place, especially in the four principal streets.
The bold teak-fronted houses of these streets are
chiefly occupiedby bankers, merchants and wealthy
natives, the and Government Offices.
Treasury
There are also plenty of good shops, where trade
seemed brisk, and everybody appeared to be busily
occupied. Many of the native and modern buildings
are really very Amongst these may be
fine.

mentioned — The Lakohmi Palace, The Colleee

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 75

State Library, and the new Palace Muckapura, all

handsomely built structures and very imposing.
Baroda possesses a very fine public pleasure park,
through which the river Vishramitri flows. On its
banks, and also dotted about the park, are small
pavilions and habitations for lions, tigers and other
animals. In the centre of the park stands a magnifi-
cent museum inwhich His Highness the Gaekwar
takes a great interest. Just outside the park gates
is the Filkhama, or elephant stalls where may be

seen between fifty and a hundred state elephants.

These magnificent animals are nearly always on
view and form one of the chief sights of the city.
After visiting the Nazar Bagh Palace, where the
.

Regalia, valued at three millions sterling, may be

inspected, a short drive brings one to the barracks,
where the celebrated gold guns are on view. These
are two field-pieces, weighing 280 lbs each, the
carriages, ammunition wagons and all the fittings
being made of the same precious metal. There is
also a companion battery in Solid silver. I am
afraid these guns would be of little use in action,
and could be placed to infinitely better purpose
if converted into coin (a privilege possessed by

Baroda) and the money applied to the educational

projects in which the Gaekwar takes such a profound
interest.
Elaborate preparation was made at the Lakshmi-
vilasa Palace for the State performance I had the
pleasure of giving before and under the distinguished
patronage of His Highness The Maharajah Gaekwar
Senakhaskhel Samsher Bahadur, family and guests.
76 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
At one end of the splendid Durbar Hall, a handsome
stage had been erected and embellished with
gorgeous decorations in the most lavish manner.
Massive gold furniture dressed the stage and the
whole building, lighted with electricity, formed a
veritable Aladdin's Palace. The Gaekwar's full band
played at intervals, under the direction of a European
band-master. His Highness's family and suite were
present, together with the ladies of the Zenana, who
were, of course in 'purdah.' The Resident, and
250 ladies and gentlemen from the Cantonment,
guests of His Highness, made up the audience. I

was well received, and at the conclusion, warmly

complimented by His Highness, and by the Resident
and guests.
I, was deeply pained at many of the sad sights I
witnessed, in connection with the terrible famine,
which was at its height during my brief stay in the
city. At the same one could only admire the
time,
splendid efforts made, and precautions taken, to
mitigate', as far as possible, the sufferings of the
miserable victims of this terrible affliction. I think,
in a great measure the poor had unconsciously
themselves to blame for much of the pain they
suffered, and for a great percentage of the mortality
which followed, inasmuch as many who were
suffering pangs of hunger, and starvation,
the
delayed coming into the City from the surrounding
country and hills, in search of relief, until it was too
late for the City authorities to successfully administer
to their wants. They got past all help, and were
so weak and emaciated when they did arrive and ate
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 77

so ravenously anything they could procure, that the

food itself in many cases, caused fatal results.
These poor people, on the very verge of death,
swarmed into the City by thousands, and died in the
streets and compounds. Women carried their dead
children in their arms, moaning and almost scream-
—
ing for help a help it was sometimes fatal to render
them. Railway passengers leaving the station,
especially Europeans, were mobbed by scores of
loathsome-looking skeletons, who shrieked and
howled in the most unearthly manner, and with
menaces craved assistance, almost using force in
prosecuting their demands. The poor in the city,
who were able to take food, received daily, stipulated
rations, which were provided by the Gaekwar, and
regulated by the police, by which means relief was
served out by the officials. The water supply was
supplied where most needed, and this tended, in
a great measure, to mitigate suffering.
As the carts conveying straw and provender
approached towards the city, they were guarded by
men armed with long sticks, who marched on each
side of the vehicles, and kept off, by beating if
necessary, the howling hungry mob, and in the
track of the carts these poor starving creatures,
literally bags of bones, living skeletons, emaciated,
maddened specimens of humanity, grovelled in the
dust, and picked therefrom, with their tweezer-like
claws, the minute pieces of straw which fell from the
conveyances ;
endeavouring thereby to satisfy their

terrible cravings. As may be imagined, the spectacle

was heartrending to a degree.
78 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
In connection with the famine, fine relief works
were estabHshed where thousands of men, women,
and children were employed in improving the City.
Their labour was chiefly unskilled, mainly consist-
ing of carrying baskets of earth and stones,
levelling up broken ground and carrying material
for the making of roads. By this means they were
enabled to earn a few annas daily, enough to
provide for their immediate wants. I drove round
and inspected the works, and found those
employed working cheerfully and with a will.
The place presented an animated appearance,
contrasting greatly with some other parts of the
City where people were dying by hundreds
daily.

Save for some of the painful incidents connected

with the famine, my stay in Baroda was excep-
tionally pleasant and comfortable.1 The guest house,
which was placed at my disposal, was pleasantly
situated in an extensive compound, the grounds
were prettily laid out, and high trees surrounded
the house and hundreds of large grey monkeys with
black faces and very long tails skipped about in the
trees close to my windows. I was often amused
watching their quaint antics.
In addition to my own '
boys was a full
' there
staff of servants to look after my and a
comfort,
carriage and pair of horses with coachman and
syce always awaiting my orders.
On the evening of my departure, His Highness
the Gaekwar did me the honour of coming to the
railway station and seeing me off. The station was
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 79

carpeted and furnished with gilt chairs and a table

upon which refreshments were provided. The
mail steamed into the station, and His Highness
shook hands with me and wished me 'bon voyage,'
and so I concluded my visit to Baroda.
 CHAPTER XV
One day, at the hotel at which I was staying, the
Kolar goldfields became the subject of conversation.
Now I had never been to a goldfield, or seen
a gold mine, and here might be an excellent
opportunity, especially as I intended visiting
Bangalore and Madras. I therefore put myself into
communication with a firm at Kolar, who amongst
other general business capacities, acted as music
agents to the community. The result was that
I received an invitation from Mr Hancock, the
superintendent of the Mysore Gold mine, which I
gladly accepted.
I arrived at Marikuppau, (Oorganin station),
where I Mr Hancock, who drove me to
was met by
his bungalow, which I believe to be the finest in
Southern India. My servants, baggage and
general impedimenta followed on by bullock
tonga. The bungalow, which stood at the top of
the rising ground overlooking the gold fields was
well built of stone, and was splendidly furnished in
'
pukka European style, being replete with every
'

comfort. The air was perfect, with a delightfully

cool and refreshing breeze, and what was equally
satisfactory, there were no mosquitoes.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 8i

After bathing and dining, I retired to rest very

early, and for the first time for many months slept
in a proper bed covered with proper bedclothes.
After breakfast we made a tour of inspection of all

works, mills and offices of the Mysore Mine, which

I understand to be the richest mine on the Fields,
the following being the official returns for the
month — 8,200 tons of ore crushed yielded 12,514
ozs. of gold, 11,786 tons of tailings cyanided
1,676 ozs., and 2,793 tons of shines cyanided,
324 ozs. making a total yield of 14,515 ozs. of
gold.
Wedescended a shaft 2,000 feet and saw the
quartz being sent to the surface. We visited the
mills, where Mr Hancock explained to me the
process of crushing and washing the quartz, also the
cyanide process of chemically extracting the remain-
ing gold, after the quartz has been crushed and
washed. Then we proceeded to the offices, where
I saw a number of large ingots of solid gold, each
as large as an ordinary brick, one of which I was
informed would belong to me, if I could lift it with
one hand. I must say at first glance, I had visions
of taking one of the gold bricks home with me, but
1 was greatly surprised when attempting to lift it,
to find it was quite beyond my strength to move it
the least bit. I was, however, presented with
a very large nugget nearly two inches square, which
I ever afterwards treasured.
The next evening I gave a performance at the
Dorgaum Theatre, which was packed, every seat
being booked early in the day, many coming from
82 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the other mines, which form part of the Kolar fields,

to witness the entertainment.

I stayed three clear days, the perfect air refresh-
ing me greatly. During my stay Mr Hancock was
exceedingly hospitable, and did all in his power
to make me as comfortable as was possible. When
the time came for me to depart he drove me to the
station and bade me au revoir.' The train, like
'

myself, was somewhat reluctant to depart. It made

several and shunted backwards and

attempts,
forwards in the most erratic manner, but eventually
one attempt appeared to be more successful than
the rest, and it got fairly under weigh. At that
moment a man came running up and just missed
the tail of the train, as the platform came to an end.
Another ten yards of platform and he would have
caught it. I was quite sorry for him. I sympathised
with him, as that was the only train of the day, but
he did not seem to take it much to heart. He
simply trotted along the track after the train, and as
it ran into Champion Station two miles distant,
quietly stepped on board. He knew that
train
In due course I arrived at Bangalore, one of the
most attractive cities of India, a lovely spot 2,300
feet above sea level. Its climate is extremely
healthy, and much appreciated by Europeans, who
regard it as a kind of health resort. It is pastoral,
well cultivated, and has fine parks and compounds
in which are neat residences. Beyond this there is
not much to see, except plenty of churches of every
denomination. The Cantonment is the largest in
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 83

the south of India, the natives speak Tamil, but

a greater number of natives speak English in
Bangalore than in any other city in India.
Here I gave two performances in the Cubbon '

rooms which adjoin the hotel, under the patronage

'

of the resident, Colonel Robertson, the charming

theatre being filled on each occasion.
Five o'clock next morning saw us off to the train
again en route for Madras. What a lovely country
we passed through The foliage was so green, and
!

seemed so much more typical of India while the

country had a more cultivated appearance than any
other part of India I had seen. The narrow valleys
have pretty little cascades, and nestling on the hill-
sides are beautiful evergreen woods, dotted
little

here and there with masses of red and yellow

blossoms, the grassy slopes being covered with
endless varieties of trees, shrubs, and flowering
plants. On we went through the Ghats, the train,
with the steam shut off, rushing down the mountain
by its own impetus, for all the world like making
a journey on a switchback. For thirty-one miles
the train wound round and curves, through
twists
beautiful foliage and charming peeps of scenery,
like a gigantic snake, until eventually we arrived at
Pernambur. Here we were examined by the
plague medical and had to take out pass-
officials,

ports. Many Indian natives have little knowledge

of the actual date of their birth, or birth-place, and
if asked to state their age, can rarely do so with any
degree of accuracy. In many cases they plainly say
they do not know. My '
boy was standing
' at the
84 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANI^S
passport table, and the official Baboo questioned
him :

'
What is your name? —Jairham Jugga.'
'
What are you ? — Bearer.'
'
How old are you ? Feefty.'
'
Who's your Sahib ? Charles Bertram.'
'
How old is he ? Seventy-four.'
I had no idea I was such a patriarch
 CHAPTER XVI
We arrived in and drove to the
Madras,
Buckingham where I was comfortable,
Hotel,
except that the heat was very trying after the
delightfully cool air of Bangalore and the Kolar
fields. I had a room on the first floor of the hotel,

overlooking a compound full of palm trees. From

my balcony I could amuse myself by watching the
natives climb the trees for '
toddy.' It is remark-
able how quickly they run up the trees, with the
aid only of a loop of rope about nine feet long. In
the distance the men look like the toy monkeys
which climb a string, the movements being very
much the same, as the two hands move together
alternately and then the two feet.

Out of curiosity I sent my boy '

' to fetch me
some '
toddy,' was anxious to taste. It
which I

suggested to me a mixture of bad cyder and rotten

eggs. I nearly vomited, and came to the con-
clusion that if that was the drink of the country,
I should be a strict teetotaler.

During the next day, which was Sunday, a

native conjuror performed several tricks on the
verandah of the hotel. In his repertoire he included
the Mango trick, and performed it very badly, but
8s
86 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
a younger man performed some marvellously clever
balancing with which I was very pleased.
tricks,

gave two performances at the Victoria Hall,

I

under the patronage of His Excellency the

Going to Market

Governor Lord Havelock. The Government

House party were present on the first night and
I scored a great success.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 87

There are some fine buildings in Madras. The

new High Court buildings form a handsome pile,
and are surrounded by a tower containing the
latest improvements in lighting, in lieu of the old
lighthouse which formerly stood upon the esplanade.
The Marine, the fashionable drive and promenade,
is a little over two miles long southward from the

fort. Towards the evening, the drive is thronged

with English carriages, and crowds of Europeans
and well-dressed Indians congregate around the
band-stand, enjoying the music and taking the
fresh air.

One of the finest clubs in India is Madras

the
Club, in the Mount Road, another is the Adyar Club,
which stands a beautiful park, through which
in

the river Adyar flows it is about four miles out

;

of Madras, and is exceedingly fashionable. I had

the pleasure of giving a performance here, which

was attended by the elite of Madras.
The Madras coast is often visited by terrific
storms. At these periods the surf breaks at a
distance of four miles from the shore, and comes
in with great violence. Even in fine weather, a
heavy surf is always prevalent. The native fisher-
men, however, seem to be able to overcome the
difficulties presented, by the skilful use of the
'
catamaran ' or native boat, peculiar to the
Coromandel coast. This is merely a raft con-
structed of three rough logs of wood, placed side
by side, and lashed firmly together. The centre
log is a little lower than the two outer ones, which
turn up slightly at each end. This arrangement
88 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
forms a hollow or depression, sufficient to hold
the basket in which the fish conveyed to shore. is

The catamaran is propelled by means of a paddle,

'
'

the native generally standing upright on the logs.

When some distance out, they seem to be walking
on the sea. On returning from work, the fisher-
man paddles towards the shore until he reaches
the beginning of the surf nearer and nearer each ;

swell carries the frail craft, until when quite close,

the native jumps into the surf, and pushes his
'catamaran' on to the beach. He then unlashes
the three logs, and scatters them on the sand.
These logs hundreds looking like the
lie about in

remnants of a wreck cast up by the sea. They

do not seem to be owned by any one in particular,
but appear to be there for the general use of the
fishermen, who ply their calling in this vicinity.
The ever-present '
murgi ' or chicken forms a
staple article of food for the European or sahib.
Do what one will, one cannot get away from the
'murgi.'" At 'hazri,' 'tiffin' or '
Khana' the
burra
'murgi,' is sure to be there — 'murgi' roasted,
'
murgi stewed, murgi minced, murgi curried,
'
'
'
'
'

hashed or in pie, rissoles or smothered up with

almonds or raisins and called 'pillace.' One
cannot lose it by any chance. Its dry, dusty,

brown, shrivelled up carcase is to be found cold at

all the refreshment rooms on the railways, and is

served up on all possible occasions. I must say

that when I see a native doing a quarter mile sprint

around a compound, after a tall, long-legged, skinny
fowl, a fowl as tall as a turkey and which lays
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 89

an egg the size of a pigeon's egg, I always feel

inclined to back the bird I know exactly what

!

is going to happen. The poor wretch is grabbed,

its head laid on a block and with one chop of a

heavy knife is decapitated. The body is thrown

upon the ground, where for a few minutes it jumps
about convulsively and it is plucked almost alive,
and cooked before the flesh has been allowed to
set, being served up immediately. One cannot
obliterate from one's mind the sight of that poor
bird with its ostrich-like run, trying to escape its

executioner. The thought of it is not conducive to

increasing one's appetite, but these things have
to be, in India.
 CHAPTER XVII

Leaving Madras, and journeying southward I was

much struck with the green and cultivated appear-
ance of this part of Southern India, also of the almost
entire absence of that brown and arid appearance
of the country, which is such a marked feature of
the Punjab and Deccan. The
and architecturestyle
of the temples differ from those of the more northern
portions of India, a new interest is created, and one
feels that there is something more still to see.
Quaint figures of horses, in a kind of terra cotta,
are dotted about the fields, and under the shades
of clumps of trees, semi-circles of these horses
little

are seen, the heads all turned inwards to the centre.

I arrived at Trichinopoli and found that I should

have to take up my quarters in a portion of the

building over the offices of the railway station.
My '
boy Jairham Jugga
' (nice name) with the aid of
the ever present coolie transferred my baggage from
the platform of the very fine station to the roof
thereof, passing along a parapet which overlooked
the track ; and it was finally deposited in a small
chamber, which was to serve as my hotel. I had
to make arrangements with the '
Khausumah ' of
the refreshment rooms to supply me with my meals.
My enquiries were then directed to discover the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 91

locality of the hall in which I was to present my

entertainment. I came across an official who was
the perfection of courtesy, but who, in the end, made
me pay pretty dearly for the kindness! He offered
to personally direct me, and walked, me about a mile
up the railway line, struck across some fields, and
eventually brought me to a very fine club house,
where I found a convenient stage, and every
appearance of doing good business. The official
seemed to be persona grata with everybody, his
' '

word there seemed to be looked upon as law, and

all in my interest, he kindly offered to sell tickets
for me, as he said everybody applied to him for
them. He also supplied check-takers and offered
to lend me a table and two chairs to dress the stage.
Similarly he freely ordered refreshments, ostensibly
for me, but really and friends-^I had
for himself
the honour of paying. In the most persuasive
manner, he asked as a favour, and as he said, in
return for the kindness he had shown me (modest)
that his wife and family might be allowed to come to
the entertainment free. For that night I consented.
The performance took place, and the house was
full ;
prices rs. 3, 2, i . At the finish, my friend
suggested that we should return to the station
before we settled up, he- eould then make me out
a statement he said. As
was leaving for Tutcorin I

the next day, Ilet me have a settle-

asked him to
ment early next morning. He said he had to
collect some of the money. As I thought this
reasonable, I could not object to the delay. I

waited and waited, and although I kept seeing him^

92 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
I could get no settlement, but he was still very
nice, and so eulogistic about my performance,
flattering me he knew how.
all he came At last
out with a crasher.'
'
His little daughter was going
tc have a Xmas tree and would I subscribe some-

tb.iig towards it. As an inducement for him to

sectle with my account of the previous evening, I

subscribed rupees five towards the object named.

He he thought
said that under the circumstances,
I should have given him at least ten rupees Mr X. ;

gave that amount when he asked I did not quite!

see why I should be influenced by anything Mr X.

did, but, not liking to be behind anyone else and
hoping to get a settlement, I agreed to give him
ten rupees. He then said to save me trouble he
would get my ticket for me, and as he said the
account was made up, I had better give him the
money, for the tickets I did so and he deducted the
:

ten rupees for his little girl's Xmas tree out of the
change, so as not to complicate the accounts. The
train came into the station and he went to get the
statement and cash. Just before the train started
he handed me an envelope containing an account
and some cash, and hoped I would find it correct.
What I was that the people in the two
did find
rupee seats were his family and friends he must —
—
have been a popular man I had consented to their
going in free (according to his account they were
all his friends). I also discovered that the hall-
keeper and his friends made up another dozen or
so, and that all the railway employees off duty

were there, but, very litrfe money. After deducting

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 93

hire of furniture, hire of check-takers (for which

he charged double the usual charge,) amount for
refreshments for me, himself and friends, during
the performance (although I had none) his own
salary for his services, a big commission on the few
tickets he sold, I found that my profit was the
magnificent sum of six rupees; out of which was my
Christmas tree contribution with four rupees added.
On my way to Puddakkotai, I returned to
Trichinopoli, and took the opportunity of again
seeing the gentleman. I will not say exactly what

I said to him, but I hoped his little girl's Christmas

tree was a success! He was still smiling and

happy he was the most plausible wheedler I have
;

ever encountered.
The most striking feature of Trichinopoli is the
great Rock. stands 273 feet above the streets,
It

and is crowned with a large Fort. It is extremely

picturesque and is conspicuous from almost every
point of view.
The town itself is cleaner than the average towns
of India, and has a total population of 85,000.
Before leaving Trichinopoli was entertained to
I

dinner at the Mess of the Madras Pioneers. The

officers were exceedingly hospitable, and I had the
pleasure of their company until the small hours in
the morning.
 CHAPTER XVIII

The next morning at 4.30 I started on my

journey to Puddakkotai, having received a very
pressing invitation from the Rajah of that State.
He sent his agent to Trichinopoli to make arrange-
ments and a dak was laid for us.
for our journey,
The distance to the town being thirty-nine miles, a
victoria was provided for me by the agent, and a
change of horses made every twelve miles. I was
accompanied by my faithful Jairham Jugga. My
luggage preceded us by twelve hours, and was con-
veyed by bullock ghari.'
'

The first was by star-

six miles of our journey
light, and what a Great blinking stars,
star-light !

innumerable luminous bodies, each seeming to have

its own perspective in the heavens, and resembling
small electric lights studding the clear dark blue
firmament. The air was deliciously cool, and I

almost regretted the approach of day. Presently

the day broke, and there at dawn in the solitude of
the plains, we passed a party of native Roman
Catholic nuns, tramping silently along a narrow
pathway a There was nothing to
little off the road.
indicate from whence they came they seemed to ;

have suddenly sprung up from out of the plain.

Farther on, we overtook another party, and turning
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 95

round a slight bend in the road, we came to a large

clump of trees, surrounded by a wall. Here through
a small gate, a third party of nuns were slowly filing,
no doubt to a small church, hidden away in the
seclusion of the foliage, where they would perform
their matutinal prayers, and exercise their holy
calling with a patience and resignation it was
impossible to do otherwise than admire.
A
few miles further on, a syce was waiting
'
'

under a shed by the roadside, with a change of

horses for us. Here we partook of some refresh-
ments, and continued the journey. The drive was
very pleasant and interesting. We passed through
quaint native villages, through small woods and
copses, and at some of these points I stopped the
carriage,and wandered a little way from the road,
and found small temples buried away in the glades,
and in the circular patches of clearing, where some
of the natives performed their 'paja' (prayers). I

also discovered some of the semi-circular groups of

idols, in the form of horses, made out of a substance
resembling terra-cotta. The heads of these were
all placed one way, looking inwards, and were most
curious, I could not resist taking a few photographs
of these strange weird groups, one of which is here
produced.
Coming within about three miles of Puddakkotai,
we passed through a rocky- ravine, with huge
boulders of rock and stone lying about. The road
opening out on to the plain again, we could see the
town lying before us, and a handsome state carriage
and pair of horses, with a mounted military escort,
96 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
waiting our arrival. With this equipage, I made my
entry into and was driven to the
Puddaklcotai,
guest house, a very handsome European building,
furnished in European style. After a bath, the
Itixury of which can be thoroughly appreciated after
having performed a forty-mile journey by road, and
partaking of a good meal, I drove to the Palace to

Terra Cotta Horses at Puddakkotai

pay my respects to His Highness, whom I found to

be a charming man and who spoke English fluently ;

incidentally 1 learned that he had been in England on

several A carriage was always at my
occasions.
disposal,and I was much interested in my drives
through and about the town, which I found ex-
tremely neat and clean. Some of the small houses
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 97

were were decorated with

prettily whitened, others
blue and red distemper, and here and there the
walls were whitened, and in gaudy colours, figures of
soldiers and elephants were painted thereon. There
were also several very fine European buildings that
one hardly expected to find in such an out-of-the-way
sort of place.
The people town looked extremely
in the
prosperous, as natives go, and all seemed happy and
contented. The Maharajao takes the greatest
interest in the welfare of the community, paying
particular attention to the sanitary arrangements of
the town, and doing all power to raise the
in his
'
status '
of his people, by providing them with good
schools, libraries, gymnasia, and other forms of
education.
I gave a State performance in the library. His

Highness and Zenana being present, the audience

consisting entirely of natives.
I stayed with His Highness for three days, and
on taking my departure he made me some hand-
some presents. As before the State carriage and
escort was requisitioned and I was driven to the
point three miles out of the town, where the dak
carriage was in waiting for me, and took me back
to Trichinopoli by similar stages, as on the outward
journey.
 CHAPTER XIX
I HAVE endeavoured to speak as briefly as
possible of most of the cities of India I visited
while making my professional tour, but there
were some places in my itinerary, in which, beyond
seeing the usual tombs and objects
temples,
of local no
importance, incident happened with
which I was personally connected, that would be
of interest to my readers. Therefore I have
omitted the mention of these cities in the preceding
chapters. But before concluding this brief record
of my wanderings in this vast country of unsolved
problems, there is a subject, which has been a
matter of great controversy, and upon which I feel
it incumbent upon me to relate my experiences, and

express my opinion professionally. I refer to the

Indian Juggler, or Jadu wallah, who for centuries
has held a pre-eminent position as an exponent of
the art of magic, and who has gained for himself,
or perhaps it would be more truthful to say, has
had built up for him, a reputation of being a wonder-
worker, able to perform feats and miracles, bordering
on the supernatural, and possessing wonderful
powers, known only to himself and to his pre-
decessors. Whence comes this marvellous, world-
wide reputation ? Not surely from any extraordinary
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 99

excellence he possesses over other conjurors of

the world, or that he has any knowledge of
supernatural or diabolical agency, other than the
operations of the ordinary powers and forces of
nature.
My American Magician, one
friend Kellar, the
of the finest exponents of the mystic art, and whose
opinion I value against any other in the world,
speaking of Indian Jugglers, says 'the ability of
the entire fraternity is beneath contempt.' Taking
them as a body, I heartily concur in this view, and
here place it unmistakably on record, that I consider
the Hindoo Juggler a greatly over-rated personage,
around whom a fictitious glory has been cast, for
what purpose it is difficult to imagine.
Most of the wonderful feats, and miraculous
impossibilities, with which these jugglers are
accredited, and of which one so often reads are
simply emanations from the fertile brains of
travellers, and have no real existence.
How many persons (not being conjurors) who
have witnessed the Mango trick being performed,
'
'

could give an accurate description of what they

really saw ? Take twenty accounts of the trick,
and they will all differ materially some essential ;

point will be omitted, or something will be greatly

exaggerated, to say nothing of the embellishments
which will be added to the story that never occurred
at all. Ten out of a dozen will say '
the juggler
came into the compound, and on 'our own' verandah,
where there could not have possibly been any
previous preparation made. In a handful of earth
100 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
he planted a mango seed, or stone, which we had
all previously examined. He some
then sprinkled
water on the earth, and the seed commenced to
grow, until it was about eight inches in height.
This he watered repeatedly until eventually it

became a full grown Mango tree, upon which the

fruit was growing. These the juggler plucked,
and gave us to taste.' Not a word about covering
the seed, or earth, with a basket or a piece of
cloth (Kopre). Thus the idea Is conveyed that
the plant was actually seen to be growing. Ask
these persons if the plant was not covered in some
way and they answer No, I think
will invariably '

not ;No We saw it growing there before our

!

eyes.' That is what nine or ten out of a dozen

will say. Now this is what really happens :

The Juggler either places some earth on the

ground, or in a small tin can (the can is the usual
method) over the tin, he erects a skeleton
frame, made of four bamboo sticks and around
this he places a piece of coarse muslin material,
enclosing three sides of the tent, the far side
from the audience being left open. The muslin
is raised In and the
the front, Mango stone
is ostentatiously imbedded In the earth, the pot
being profusely sprinkled with water. The juggler
then discovers, as if by accident, that it Is possible
to see through the muslin, and decides to cover the
tent again with a thicker cloth. This done, he
takes his Chatty or water pot to the back of the
'
'

tent, ostensibly to water It still more but he really ;

removes the stone from the earth, and Inserts

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS loi

another stone, in which a small sprig of mango

leaves is tightly wedged. He then proceeds with
a few trivial tricks, with which he endeavours to
amuse his audience, and if possible to collect some
rupees, this being his best opportunity. After a
little time has elapsed, the cloths are raised in the
front, and in the can, the sprig of mango leaves
is seen apparently growing. Sometimes the tin

Mango Tree Trick

is taken bodily out of the tent and shown. Should

any person be incredulous and ask to see the stone,
the sprig is pulled out of the tin and attached to
it the stone is seen, covered with mud. The tin
is replaced in the tent, from the front, the cloths
pulled down, and the plant watered again, through
the back opening of the tent, giving the juggler
the opportunity to take from the folds of the first
102 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
muslin cloth, a wet rag, containing a larger sprig
of mango leaves, about two feet in height, to which
is attached another stone, in a similar manner to
the stone fixed to the first sprig. This larger sprig
which sometimes has fruit wired on to it, is shaken
out well and substituted for the sprig already in
the tin, and it is constantly being watered, which
gives the sprig of leaves a fresh appearance, when
finally produced. It also gives an opportunity for
the juggler to potter about with his hands under
cover of the tent. He then goes on with a few
other small tricks, andmore money if
collects
possible, and and
as a denouement, conclusion to
his performance, lifts the cloths from the front and
discloses the large sprig under the tent. Now he
might be asked to leave the supposed tree, or give it
to one of the audience. This however would expose
his method considerably. To prevent any such
contretemps, he replaces the tree in the tent, and
suggests that he should make it grow larger still,
so as to fill the tent completely. He goes behind
and pretends to water it once more, but really takes
both sprigs away, rolls them up tightly in the wet
rag, and secretes the bundle in the folds of one end
of the muslin cloth. The audience naturally get
anxious to see the full-grown tree, so the juggler
takes the thick cloth off first, and then it is seen
through the muslin cover that nothing is under
the tent, but the tin can, empty,^ except for the
earth in it. Everything has disappeared. He folds
up the frame work of the tent and wraps the
sticks in the two cloths, which also contain the two
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 103

sprigs of Mango plant and says 'Salaam' and goes

away to some secluded spot, there to prepare the
sprigs for the next audience. It is a clever and
pretty trick, when worked well, but there is nothing
about it at all miraculous, nor anything but what

can be accomplished by perfectly natural means

by a skilful conjuror. But when one reads some
explanations travellers give of the manner the
trick is performed, it is nothing short of an insult
to one'scommon sense.
Let me now quote a report of the manner the
trick was performed, as seen by Tavernier in Guzerat,
and given Lives of Celebrated Travellers, vol. I.,
in

p. 183-184, one of the reports which have helped

to build up the Indian Juggler's fictitious reputation.
(The remark in the bracket is my own).
'
They next took a small piece of wood, and
having planted it in the earth, demanded of one of
the bystanders what fruit they should cause it to
produce. The company replied that they wished
to see '
mangoes ' (of course they would). One of
the Jugglers then wrapped himself in a sheet, and
crouched down to the earth several times in
succession.'
Tavernier, whom all this diablerie delighted
exceedingly, ascended to the window of an upper
chamber, for the purpose of beholding more
distinctly the whole proceedings of the magician :

(that is he went away at the very critical moment)

and through a rent in the sheet saw him cut himself
under the arms with a razor and rub the piece of
wood with his blood. Every time he rose from his
104 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
crouching position, the bit of wood grew visibly, and
at the third time branches and buds sprang out.
The tree, which had now attainad the height of five
or six feet (higher than the man himself, mark) was
next covered with leaves, and then with flowers.
At an English clergyman arrived (the
this instant
performance taking place at the house of one of our
countrymen) and perceiving in what practices the
jugglers were engaged, commanded them instantly
to desist, threatening the whole of the Europeans
present with exclusion from the holy Communion
if they persisted in encouraging the diabolic'al arts

of sorcerers and magicians. (Now please mark the

conclusion.) The zeal of this hot-headed son of the
Church put a stop and prevented
to the exhibition,
our traveller from beholdimg the crowning miracle.
How is it possible for anyone to write such balder-
dash, or expect persons to believe that the agency
of the juggler's blood had anything whatever to do
with the sprouting of the stick. It is on a par with

a theory advanced by an American writer that the

rapidity of the growth of the mango plant in these
'
'

cases was due to the use of a fertilizer composed of

the bodies of crushed ants.
These are samples of the descriptions of Hindoo
Magic, which travellers, in days gone by, have
supplied to Europeans, and which have, in a measure,
built up for the jugglers the fame and renown they
now possess.
 CHAPTER XX
Another which has a world-wide notoriety is
trick
the '
rope trick
in which the performer casts a rope
'
;

into the air, where it remains fixed and rigid, unsup-

ported by any physical means. A fellow juggler
then runs up the rope, and disappears at the top.
He is pursued by a third juggler, armed with a
sword, who in turn vanishes into space. In the
course of a few moments limbs fall, and the whole
of the body, hacked to pieces, comes to the ground.
The juggler armed with the sword, then comes down
the rope again to the earth, the pieces of the body
are collected and placed in a basket, where they are
re-united, and the body is restored to life. There
are persons who have actually told me they have
seen this impossibility performed in the manner I
' '

have here described. One person in Lahore

entered into quite a long controversy with me upon
the subject. In some letters by him, to the Civil
and Military Gazette, he repeated his assurance,
that he had seen the trick so performed, and
supported his statement by saying that he en-
deavoured to take a photograph of what happened,
but the camera failed to disclose anything, and gave
no results whatever. He therefore falls back upon
the very general statement that the whole audience,
io6 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
numbering about sixty persons, were hypnotised,
an opinion I have often heard expressed by persons
claiming to have witnessed this marvel.
Now I believe that I am correct in saying it is

an impossibility to hypnotise such a number of

persons at one time, in such a manner as to prevent
them from being able to see, or from knowing what
was taking place around them, and surely the
person who related to me what he saw happen,
could not ask me he himself was
to believe that
hypnotised, for he were, how was he able to
if

work the camera. This is another of the gentle-

men helping to build up the juggler's fictitious
reputation. He referred the case to and asked
for an opinion from Mr Maskelyne, and was
grievously offended because Mr Maskelyne
suggested that probably he had been dining.
Mr Kellar says that '
writers who say they have
seen such impossible feats performed must have
had their brains steeped in "hasheesh." '

Exaggerated accounts of these 'impossibilities,'

written by celebrated travellers, are as plentiful as
blackberries. Here is a narrative which will take
a lot of beating. The writer is careful to state,
'
in my presence ' thus vouching for the accuracy of
what he saw. '
They produced a chain fifty cubits
in length, and in my presence threw one end of it

towards the sky, where it remained as if fastened to

something in the air. A dog was then brought
forward, and being placed at the lower end of the
chain, immediately ran up, and, reaching the other
end, disappeared in the air. In the same manner
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 107

a hog, a panther, a lion and a tiger were successively

sent up the chain and all disappeared at the upper

end.' (I am surprised an elephant was not included

in the category). '
At last they took down the chain,
and put it into a bag, no one ever discerning in
what way the animals were made to vanish into the
air in the mysterious manner described.' I should
think not indeed surely the traveller must have
;

been the De Rougemont of the period. Again he

writes :

'
They were furnished with a bow and about fifty
steel pointed arrows. One of the men took the
bow and shooting an arrow into the air, the shaft
stood fixed at a considerable height, he shot a
second arrow which flew straight to the first, to
which it became and so with every one of
attached,
the last of all, which
remaining arrows to the
striking the sheaf suspended in the air, the whole
immediately broke asunder, and came at once to
the earth.' This I think is drawing the long bow'

with a vengeance.
I was particularly anxious to have this matter of
the '
rope trick ' cleared up in my own mind, but
in all my wanderings, in every part of India, I never
even once heard of a juggler who could perform
this wonderful feat. I witnessed the performances
of one hundred and six of the most celebrated
conjurors, provided by the native Princes with
whom I sojourned, but none of them laid any claim
to being able to perform it, and when they were
questioned upon the subject, disclaimed any. idea
of ever having seen, and in many cases, having
io8 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
heard of had the pleasure of meeting Lord
it. I

Lonsdale in India, and he offered ten thousand

pounds to any juggler who could perform the
'
Rope feat, which with my own modest five
'

hundred pounds added, did not succeed in drawing

forth an exhibition of the miracle.
In Bombay, Calcutta, and some of the other
large cities, there are native conjurors who affect
European evening dress, and perform at at homes '

and garden parties, etc. Upon enquiring of them,

if they had seen the Rope trick performed, they
'
'

all replied in the negative, and were unanimous in

assuring me that no such trick had ever been

performed, and only existed in the imaginations of
a few travellers.With this evidence, I think this
wonderful feat may be numbered with the mysteries
of Aladdin's Palace, Prince Ahmed's wonderful
and a few other fancy tales enumerated
carpet, in
Arabian Nights' Entertainments.
The '
basket trick ' forms part of nearly every
juggler's repertoire, but very few perform it really
well, or in its entirety, that is, cause the child to
actually disappear from the basket, so that the
basket may be examined by the audience and found
empty. When the '
trick ' is properly performed,
the child actually leaves the basket by grasping a
strap around the juggler's waist, and passing
between the juggler's legs, his movements
being covered by the large cloth which the juggler
uses for covering the basket. In this case the
child must be very carefully trained, or the trick
might come to a premature conclusion. Another
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 109

method of performing the trick is to place four

sticks, about five feet in height in the ground,
around the basket, and after the '
boy ' has been
placed in it, a long cloth is wound around the four
sticks, when the extremity of the loose end, touches
the edge of the crowd of spectators, whom it is

generally contrived to get placed in a semi-circle.

The boy runs swiftly along the cloth and disappears
through the legs of a confederate, to mingle with
the crowd, or to reappear in some pre-arrangeH
manner or place. When cleverly executed, this is

one of the best tricks the jugglers perform, but in

ninety-nine cases out of a hundred when the trick
is shown the boy never leaves the basket at all.
The basket is of a peculiar construction, the
bottom, or floor of it being much larger than the
opening or mouth at the top. The boy kneels inside,
his back protruding a little through the mouth of
the basket, to convey the idea that it is only just
possible for the basket to hold him, a cloth is then
placed over all, a species of incantation takes place
to the accompaniment of the pipes and tom-tom,
the performers gesticulating wildly, and creating
a great hub-bub. Suddenly one of the number, as
if in a paroxysm of rage, plunges the sword through

the basket, agonising cries are heard, and the sword

is withdrawn apparently dripping with blood. The
basket lid sinks, and all is still. The performer
places his hand under the cloth and removes the
basket lid, and jumps into the basket to prove that
it is perfectly empty. The cloth, sinking with his
weight, covers up the boy, who lies motionless,
no A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
curled around the inside bottom edge. The cries
are sometimes produced ventriloquially, and the
semblance of blood is obtained by squeezing a
sponge saturated with red liquid, which runs down
the blade from the hilt of the sword. As the basket
cannot be shown empty, a raison d'etre for the
re-appearance of boy is necessary, so the
the
performer goes through the pantomime of catching
the boy again in the air by means of the cloth, and
re -placing him in the basket. This is such a weak
ending to what would otherwise be a good trick,
that it rarely succeeds in causing very much
astonishment.
These exponents of the magic art, invariably
work in groups of four or five, although occasionally
a man may be found working alone, or assisted
only by a small boy. They squat upon the ground,
and are able to produce, vanish or substitute one
articlefor another with comparative ease, amidst
the bundle of rags, large blankets and other impedi-
menta with which they are usually surrounded. In
some of the smaller they occasionally show
tricks
a degree of neatness in execution, although many
of the tricks are quite of an elementary order. They
possess a suasive and artful manner, and an ability
to divert the attention of their audience at the
moment most dexterously, either by making
critical

some sudden exclamation, or making a din with the

pipes and tom-tom. Sometimes they feign in a
most realistic manner to quarrel with each other,
and during the supposed altercation the trick is
accomplished.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS m
The trick with three little wooden cups and the
rag or pith balls, is perhaps the best sleight of
hand trick they perform, although the method
adopted by them savours too much of the handy '

pandy, which hand will you have style. They do

'

not seem to adopt any special sequence in perform-

ing the trick it is rather more a game of guessing
;

by the audience, under which cups the balls are to

be found. This develops sometimes into a small
wager being made, invariably ending in favour of
the juggler.
 CHAPTER XXI
Of all the native conjurors whose performances I
have witnessed a man named Hussain Bux of
Cawnpore was, I think, the most clever he does ;

not work in company with other jugglers, but is

assisted onlyby a boy, I believe to be his son.

Hussain Bux performed the Mango tree trick
exceedingly well, and permitted me to take photo-
graphs of it in the various stages.
He also performed a very effective little trick in
which he produced about twenty Java sparrows
from under a small basket. It was one of the

prettiest tricks I had witnessed, although the

manner in which it was accomplished was obvious
to the veriest tyro in magic. Another experiment
he performed was rather startling in a way, but was
not of such a pleasing nature as the trick with the
Java sparrows. He unwound a ball of cotton, and
•

cut off a piece about six feet in length. One end

he placed in his mouth, the other end was held by
the boy. At a signal from the juggler the boy
released his end, and the whole of the cotton flew
into the juggler's mouth and disappeared. He
made grimaces suggestive of swallowing it, and
requested the loan of my penknife. Opening the
large blade he made a rapid movement as though
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 113

he intended to cut his throat. The boy as suddenly

grasped his hand and persuaded him to desist,
which he did for a moment, but springing away
from the boy's grasp, seemingly plunged the knife
with great force into his stomach, and shrieked as
if he endured the greatest pain. He then raised
the thin muslin shirt he was wearing, showing his
'
dhoti ' slightly stained with blood, and placing his
finger and thumb underneath the top edge of his
'
dhoti ' pulled the piece of cotton out to a distance
of about four and lowering the edge of his
feet,
'
dhoti one could plainly see the cotton coming out
'

of a hole in the man's flesh. Of course the effect

was produced by means of a seton in the skin, with

a second piece of cotton secreted under the edge of

the man's 'dhoti.' This was anything but a
drawing-room trick for a European conjuror to
exhibit, but when performed by a native would be
quite permissible.
Manyof the tricks one sees in India are worked
by means of a hair attached to one of the juggler's
toes, and as the natural position of a native is to sit
squatted upon the ground, his feet are hidden from
view, and are used to pull the hair when necessary.
The which a small china duck, which is
trick in
floating on the surface of some muddy water appears
to dive when commanded to do so, is performed by
means of one end of a hair attached to the duck,
and the other end fixed to the performer's toe, the
hair passing through a small hole pierced in the
bottom of the tin containing the water. When the
native pulls the hair with his toe, the duck of course
H
114 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
goes to the bottom, re-appearing on the surface
when the tensionon the hair is released. The
walking rupee worked upon the same principle.
is

A rupee is borrowed and placed on the ground

about two feet from the performer, who secretly
attaches a hair to the coin by means of a small
piece of wax. Between the rupee and himself, the
juggler stands the outer shell of a small match-box
on end across the hair. The wily native asks if he
may have the rupee if he can make it knock down
the match-box without touching either with his
hands, nineteen times out of twenty the lender of
the rupee gives his consent. The juggler then
plays his pipe to the rupee, and talks a lot of jargon
to it, as if to enchant it, thus heightening the effect
of the trick.Suddenly, whilst both his hands are
engaged playing on the pipe, the juggler jerks his
toe, the rupee jumps towards him and knocks down
the box in transit. With profound salaams the '
'

cunning old '

fakir ' bags the rupee, and goes on
with another trick.

Apart from the mango and basket tricks, most of

their sleights
'
are very elementary.
' The old
schoolboy trick of cutting and restoring a piece of
string, is often shown, the variation being that a
long piece of turban '
Kapse ' is substituted in
place of the string. The ring on the sticjk is

another which is often found in their repertoire,

the old device of a second ring sewn in one corner
of a handkerchief being adopted.
The repertoire of the ordinary juggler contains
such minor tricks as '
the sand which is thrown
 A MAGICIAN m MANY LANDS 115

into a bowl of water, and taken out by handsful

perfectly dry.' Various coloured
'
powders
swallowed, and each colour blown out dry from
the mouth, in any order requested.' Also the
trick of '
apparently swallowing a number of
needles, reproducing- them from the mouth
threaded upon a strand of silk or cotton.' And
no '
jadu wallah ' would consider his programme
complete unless he could change stones or rupees
into mice and scorpions, with which he startles
the European '
mem-sahibs ' who patronise his
entertainments. Many of the fraternity eschew
' '

tricks of the legerdemain or mystic order, and

affect only those appertaining to jugglery, pure
and simple. I saw a man in Madras, who balanced
and spun several eggs upon a frail arrangement
of straws, in the most dexterous manner, the whole
time keeping spinning two bamboo rings, eight
inches in diameter, one on each great toe, each
ring revolving in an opposite direction. There is
a tendency now amongst the native jugglers of
India to emulate European conjurors, and it is not
at all unusual to see them using a pack of English
playing cards, with which they attempt the simplest
of illusions. But in imitating the European con-
jurors, the Indian juggler is quite unable to stand
up and give his performance openly before his

audience, it is absolutely essential for him to be

squatting upon the ground, surrounded by heaps

of old rags, blankets and other lumber, only under
cover of which can he successfully perform his
tricks.
ii6 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Personally I enjoy seeing a good native magician ;

and, from a professional point of view, admire the

artfulness and dexterity with which he deceives
his audience but I think I have said enough to
;

dispel any idea latent in the minds of any persons

that the jugglers of India possess the supernatural
powers with which they have been accredited, or
that they can even vie with the twentieth century
European or American conjurors in their up-to-
date modern miracles and deceptions.
I arrived at Tuticorin at 9-5 a.m., and stayed

there three days previous to leaving for Ceylon.

I had been fortunate in meeting a clergyman who

travelled from Trichinopoli with me, and he most

kindly gave me an introduction to one of the
managers of the British India Steamship Company ;

upon whom I called. He received and treated me

in the most hospitable manner, introducing me to
the Club, and giving me an invitation to stay at his
house until I left for Ceylon. Needless to say I
gladly availed myself of his great kindness ; I was
doubly grateful, inasmuch as the public accommo-
dation for travellers in Tuticorin is of the poorest
and most meagre description. The place itself is

not attractive, but as a sea-port town is very thriving,

and is the which travellers, desirous of
port at
reaching Ceylon from Southern India, embark for
Colombo.
The excellent boats of the British India Company
leave weekly, the distance to Colombo being 150
miles, the time occupied in making the journey
being sixteen hours. The anchorage for the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 117

steamers at Tuticorin is five miles from the shore,

and passengers are conveyed to British India boats
in steam launches.
The place has been famous for its pearl fisheries,
which were known to the Romans and are spoken
of by Pliny. They are now a Government mono-
poly, but the fisheries produce very few pearl oysters
at present, and show no profit, although the chank
shells produce a revenue of about ;^3,ooo annually.
The jetty in front of the town is chiefly used for
loading the small schooners plying between India
and Ceylon. At the time I was in Tuticorin, the
cattle consumption of the Boer prisoners,
for the
who were in Ceylon, were loaded from this jetty,
the extra work entailed taxing to the utmost extreme
the labour resources of the Port.
One morning I was watching the unceremonious
manner in which the cattle were being slung on
board and packed like sardines in the small sailing
boats alongside the jetty, when a herd at the top
end of the pier stampeded, and I had to run for my
life. There was nothing at the sides of the pier to
prevent one from being pushed into the water. On
came the herd, thundering along and sweeping the
natives into the sea, I just managed to get through
the gates at the shore end in time, not an instant
too soon, 1 slammed the gates, and a native, seeing
the danger, had the good sense to barricade the
gates with a baulk of timber, one end of which he
placed against a railway truck, jamming the other
end at the jointure of the two gates, an idea which
'could only emanate from a well balanced brain.'
ii8 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Many cattle fell into the sea, but the natives in
charge are very adept in rescuing them they dive ;

in immediately and in a most skilful manner guide

the frightened animals ashore.
I was anxious to get away to Ceylon, cholera
having broken out lately in Tuticorin, so I gave
one performance at the Club, under the auspices of
the British India Company's officials, which was
most successful.
I left the next day, but found that I should
experience some difficulty with the quarantine
officials over my servant ' Jairham Jugga,' who being
a native was not allowed to travel except with a
permit ; as he had never been away from me, and
had lived at the manager's house with me, (his
invitation having been extended to my servant,) I

knew in my own mind was no necessity

that there
to put Jairham in quarantine, but it was imperative
for him to be with me in Ceylon as I could not
possibly get on without him. So I dressed him up
as a swell in his stage clothes, and taking a first
'
'

class passage for him, quietly gave out that he was

a Rajah travelling for pleasure. And so we reached
Colombo.
Then the formalities of inspection by the plague
officials concluded, I found myself on board the

S. S. Pantakotta, bound for Burmah, the country

of all others I had always wished to visit. There
were twenty saloon passengers on board in addition
to myself, the second class accommodation being
appropriated by thirty-three artillerymen en route
for Rangoon. We sailed at 6 p.m. and, after dinner
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 119

and a cigar on deck, it was not long before I retired

for the night.
The next evening I was induced to give an
entertainment on deck, which had the effect of
bringing the company more into touch with each
other, so much so indeed, that on the following
evenmg the ladies organised a concert to which the

I visit the Boer Camp in Ceylon

'
Tommies were invited, and most of the company
'

took part. One Tommy cheered us by singing

'
'

twenty-eight verses of a song, without music, entitled

'
A young Irish soldier sentenced to death.' I have
not yet made up my mind as to whether or not it
was a humorous song. Nevertheless the concert
was a great success and the soldiers chaired the
120 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Captain, who had very generously provided them
with a supper and free drinks.
In the early morning of the 5th day (this sounds
Biblical) we entered the Irrawaddy. The sun
was just rising, casting its rosy light on the river
banks, and illuminating the golden dome of the
immense Shway Dagon Pagoda, which stood out
in bold relief against the sky. At six o'clock the
pilot came on board, and seeing me immediately said
'
How do you do, Mr Bertram. .The last time I saw
you was in Liverpool four years ago,' which once ;

more goes to show in what a small world we live

As we steamed slowly up the river, two dead
elephants floated past us, and on shore, we could
plainly see the live ones '
piling teak.' We passed
the quarantine inspection, and landed at r i o'clock,
afterwhich I soon got settled comfortably at the
Strand Hotel.
The feeling I experienced upon first landing in
Rangoon, was one of complete surprise. It pre-
sented the greatest contrast to any other place I had
yet seen, and the thought seemed to flit through my
mind '
Now this really is a foreign country.' The
Burmese, with their merry indolent natures in their
bright silks have no counterparts in Hindustan.
They are not subjected to '
caste ' influences, and
their women are not secluded. On the contrary,
they take great pride in showing themselves arrayed
in their dainty costumes, and are seen in the streets
and public places,wearing the most brilliantly
coloured silks and bedecked in the showiest of imi-
tation jewellery.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 121

I could not resist visiting, at the earliest possible

moment, that venerable pile, the great Shway
Dagon Pagoda, the finest and most generally visited
place of worship in Indo-China, and certainly one
of the most wonderful sights of the world. From a
distance, it resembles a huge pinnacle of gold, and
on drawing nearer its grandeur is most impressive.

Major Regan and Executioner at Rangoon Gaol

I entered by the southern steps, at the foot of which

are two gigantic leogryptis, and was immediately
pestered by children to accept posies for which of
course they expected to receive '
backsheesh.' Next
a Burman, quite unsolicited, began conducting me
up a great flight of very slippery stone steps much
worn by the constant tramp of the worshippers, who
daily crowd the Pagoda. The steps passed through
122 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
a kind of bazaar of small shops ranged up on either
side, where pretty perky, smiling Burmese girls
vended incense-sticks, artificial flowers, gold-leaf
and a thousand and one other small articles, pur-
chased by the worshippers, as offerings with which
to propitiate their gods. The effect of passing up
this tunnel-like entrance was weird in the extreme.
Barefooted '
pongyis ' (priests) clad in yellow toga-
like vestments flitted past, whilst the peculiar smell
of incense pervading the place, and the occasional
single stroke on a gong, all seemed to increase the
uncanny effect. It is almost futile to attempt to
describe the wonderful scene from the upper terrace
upon which the pagoda stands, with a circum-
ference of 1,335 fsst and rising to a height of 370
feet above the flagged space with which it is sur-
rounded. Words convey but a feeble description
of the four chapels situated at the east of the
pagoda, or of- the hundreds of temples, Gautamas,
large and small, Buddhas, altars, bells, small pagodas,
offerings, flowers, burning tapers, candles, and incense
which are seen on all sides. A large bell, said to
weigh forty-two tons, is suspended in one corner
and is sounded by striking it with one of the
large baulks of timber which lie around it. Thou-
sands of worshippers kneel or prostrate themselves
on the flag stones all day long. They come and
go, an endless stream of old and young, of both
sexes, continually praying, moaning and supplicating.
The place is never deserted. The worshipper may
be heard, intoning his devout aspirations, long after
midnight What a people What a sight
! !
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 123

On and days of rejoicing the merry

festivals
crowd of happy, laughing holiday-makers which
congregates at the pagoda, dressed in their best,

and carrying prayer-flags, flowers and offerings of

every description, is one of the most extraordinary
sights it is possible to behold.
 CHAPTER XXII

The lamented death of our beloved Queen

Victoria came as a crushing blow to the British
Empire in every part of the world, but nowhere
could there have been exhibited greater tributes of
love, sorrow and sincere regret, than those of the
residents of Burma, both British and Native.
When the sad intelligence arrived, that our revered
Sovereign passed away, a sudden gloom
had
appeared come over the place. Every house
to
of business was closed, and trade came to a
standstill. Even in the native quarters, the same
touching evidence of regard and grief was manifest.
Thousands of natives assembled in the public park,
and sat quietly, and with the deepest reverence,
around the statue of her late Majesty, and there
discussed the sad and mournful news of the death
of their Great White Mother. I had engaged the

Jubilee Hall in Rangoon, and other halls in

Moulmein and Mandalay, and had billed these '
'

towns and advertised my performances very

extensively in all the Burmah newspapers.
Everything had to be cancelled and for five
weeks I could do absolutely nothing, but visit
the places of interest in the neighbourhood.
In the company of my friend Major Regan, I
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 125

drove to the Rangoon Central Prison, and made

an inspection of the gaol. The prison is splendidly
laid out, all the buildings, exercising and work yards,
radiating to a centre upon which is erected a high
watch-tower, commanding a view of the whole
prison area. Passing through the massive gates,
we saw the Bertillon system of measuring criminals
for the purpose of identification, and also the taking
We went
of finger prints with a similar object.
through the printing works, from which a large
amount of the Government printing is turned out
and also the type-foundry. Here a number of
prisoners were at work, some, wearing a tuft of hair
on their shaven heads, signifying that they were
undergoing life sentences, were walking about the
foundry carrying large ladles of molten lead. There
were also cocoa-nut fibre works, carpenters, chair-
makers, silversmiths, gardeners and many other
callings, at which the prisoners were engaged. In
the execution yard a large scaffold is erected and
several nearly nude muscular Burmans were
practising the art of 'flogging,' thrashing a large
leather cushion or pad fixed on a tripod, using a
long bamboo cane about three quarters of an inch
in diameter and five and a half feet long. Some
poor wretches who had been flogged, were lying in
their cells, upon their stomachs, in a most helpless
condition, laboriously picking oakum, their backs
quite raw from recent punishment. The cells have
iron railings instead of closed doors, so that it is

quite possible to see into the interiors. Two

prisoners were sitting on their haunches, the palms
126 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
of their hands close together as if in prayer, their
faces pressed against the bars, staring vacantly into

Murderer awaiting execution at Rangoon Jail

space. They were two murderers, awaiting execu-

tion on the following day !
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 127

At the time appointed for the mid-day meal, the

prisoners leave their various occupations, and file

out perfectly nude, their arms outstretched above

prove that they have no dangerous
their heads, to
weapons concealed about them. They pass along
outside the kitchen wall, at the bottom of which
there are several holes each about a foot square.
Through these apertures, tin dishes are pushed
from the inside, containing the meals prepared
according to the usage of the various religions and
castes of the prisoners. Each convict picks up his
platter, and passes through a gate into another bare
yard, where they squat on the ground and consume
their food. The tops of the high walls have three
rows of loose bricks piled upon them in an open-
work pattern, a prisoner attempting to escape,
would cause the bricks to fall clattering about his
head, thus raising an alarm.
In the gaol, which is looked upon as quite a model,
there were at the time of my visit, 2513 prisoners.
Another morning- I went to Messrs MacwreQ-or's
timber yards and mills to see the elephants at
work. I have always felt that elephants in a circus

standing on their heads, have a degraded appear-

ance. They look foolish and undignified as
though conscious of their inability to pose as
successful humourists, but when these sagacious
creatures are seen at useful work, there is a quiet
dignity in the way they go about their tasks, which
is all who visit them.
the admiration of
They generally work in couples, and stack the
immense piles of teak with great exactitude ; an
 128 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
elephant with his trunk coiled up will push at one
end of a log 35 feet long and weighing three tons,
and guide it along the iron plated floors of the yard,
in and out of the avenues of stacked-wood, avoiding
all obstacles, until he brings it to its destination.
A second elephant will then assist, and the two
will lift enormous log to the top of the pile.
the
It is said that they even close one eye, and glance

along the log, completing their work with final

touches of the trunk and tusks to ensure a nicety
of adjustment. In the mills they also do excellent
work, lifting huge rough tree logs, placing them
in position on the circular-saw platforms, and
guiding the mass of wood towards the twirling
saw, which cuts from the bulk large strips of
superfluous timber. These are quickly removed
and cleared away from the saw-shed by other
elephants. The saving of manual labour and
machinery is prodigious, and the value of their
uncomplaining services cannot be overestimated.
On 26th January 1901 His Majesty King
Edward VII was proclaimed Emperor of India,
the ceremony, which was not at all imposing,
taking place in front of the Townfew Hall. A
persons were provided with seats on the temporary
platform, a company of soldiers lined up in the road
facing the and several carriages appeared
Hall,
upon the any particular demonstra-
scene, without
tion. The proclamation was read by the Lieutenant
Governor's secretary, three cheers were called for
the new King, with feeble response, the Union Jack
was hoisted whilst the band played a few bars of
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 129

the National Anthem, and the soldiers immediately

marched away. The whole ceremony did not
occupy more than ten minutes.
On the following Sunday I attended the funeral
service for Her late Majesty Queen Victoria, at the
Cathedral. It was very beautiful and impressive,
the Bishop himself officiating.
I visited the Zoological Gardens, but only saw
a few skinny disconsolate-looking monkeys, a
miserable bear, a couple of jackals and an elephant,
who looked leprous behind the ears, for which he
was awarded the high-sounding title '
Sacred White
Elephant.'
One night I accepted an invitation to dine at a
friend'shouse, and apparently swallowed half-a-
dozen knives and forks, much to the dismay of the
native butler who promptly gathered up all the
remaining cutlery and hurried out of the room
shouting, He a devil man,' He a devil man!'
' '

After dinner I volunteered to show my friend's dear

little daughter a few tricks. The native butler
returned to the room, and I commenced extracting
eggs from impossible places, to his utter astonish-
ment. Finally I pulled a chicken from under his
jacket and scared him so much that he fled from
the bungalow in terror. Next morning he came to
his master and said, I cannot attend next time that
'

" devil gentleman " coming. What, Sir wife, ! my

my children, all making frighten, Sir. No, I good
servant, doing plenty work, master, missis, but
please give leave next time that master coming
this house. I very frightened that gentleman, sir, so
130 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
master please giving leave. When that
'
' devil
master" not here, then I come and do. plenty work
for master.'
Although I was unable to give entertainments at
Mandalay owing to the national mourning, I did
not lose the opportunity of paying a visit to this
'
royal town.'
Leaving Rangoon at 5 p.m., we journeyed through
miles of '
and stretches of brushwood
paddy-fields '

and reedy vegetation, passing pagodas by hundreds,

'
Oh land of pagodas and paddy-fields green.' At
!

night huge fires of rice-stubble were burning by the

railroad-side, the ashes being utilised as a fertilising
substance in the ensuing season. The frontier into
Upper Burma was crossed in the early morning after
which the scenery greatly improved. High rocky
hills stretched far away in the distance. Pagodas,
shrines, tombs, many crumbling away in utter decay,
rose up picturesquely from the shrubs and small
jungle-growth on every side.
Arriving at the far-famed city I drove to Fort
Dufferin, in the centre of King Thebaw's
which is

Palace, now Upper Burma

the headquarters of the
Club, where being an honorary member I stayed
during my sojourn in '
Kipling's City,' for nine-
tenths of the world have heard of Mandalay through
Kipling's poem. One most curious sights
of its

is an enclosure, half a mile square, in which 450

pagodas were built by King Thebaw's uncle.

They are all alike and side by side with a large
temple of the usual form, in the centre, the whole
being indeed a remarkable piece of work. Beyond
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 131

this, I saw nothing outside the Fort that attracted

my attention, or interested me one little bit, and it
is the dirtiest town I have ever had the misfortune
to '
strike.'

Figure at gate of Anacan Pagoda, Manialay

Inside the Fort, the Palace is much as it was in

King Thebaw's time. The Throne room is used

as a reading-room by the club members, although
it is still open to the public, and many Burmese
132 A MAGICIAJ^ IN MANY LANDS
families, out for a picnic, gaze awe-stricken at the
ginger-bread looking old throne, and meander
reverently through the out-buildings of the old
Palace.
I occupied the room in which Queen Soupiala is

said tohave murdered her Maid of Honour, but the

departed was quite at rest, and her wraith did not
interfere with my slumbers. King Thebaw, I am
told, had a fairly rough time, having married three
who were also his own sisters. One of them
sisters,

named Soupiala not only ruled Thebaw, but every-

body else also.
On
one occasion, whilst seated on the platform in
the throne room or audience chamber, where the
people prostrated themselves before her, without
daring even to raise their eyes in the direction of the
throne, Soupiala chanced to glance in the direction
of the anti-chamber and observed a Maid of Honour,
of whom
she was jealous, making sidelong glances
at the King, her brother and husband. She imme-
diately rose and running down the steps into the
anti-chamber, snatched a dah from the hand of an
attendant, and struck at her maid, who, putting up
her hand, received the blow, amputating her hand
some inches above the wrist. The girl fled in
terror to the door, which is still marked with blood
stains on the panelling. Thence through the crowd
of prostrate people in the audience chamber, to her
own room in an out-building, where was
she
followed by the infuriated Soupiala who hacked
her to pieces.
I took train one afternoon to Shauzu, and at the
 A MAGICIAN m MANY LANDS 133

Arrakan Pagoda, witnessed a most interesting

Burmese festival. It is known as a 'payagyi' in
which the burning of a hpongyi or Burmese '
'

priest forms the The dead

principal feature.
priest in whose honour was held, was
this festival
a man greatly venerated and esteemed, and held a
high ecclesiastical office, corresponding to that of a

Maid of Honour's room, where I slept, and where lady

was killed at Mandalay

bishop in the Christian Church. The good gentle-

man had been dead twelve months, since which
time his body had been carefully preserved in honey
awaiting this joyful day. This honey is eagerly
sought after by the natives, who buy and eat it
with relish. A notice that '
Hponghyi Honey'
is on sale is often seen in the bazaars. It is supposed
that since death the Saint has been overcoming evil
134 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
spirits,one only remaining unconquered. This, the
most terrible, will, they believe, be vanquished on the
day of the 'payagyi,' when the priest will become
purified and enter into the holy state to which all
true hpongyis aspire.
'
' The body was burned
-

upon a huge, fancifully decorated pyre, the cere-

mony causing great rejoicing, thousands coming
great distances to join in the general happiness.
These festivals extend over four or five days, and
take the form of a huge fair. Booths of every
description are erected, at which food-stuffs, sweets,
toys, gold leaf and flowers, together with a great
number of other offerings may be purchased. A
curious feature is two rows of booths, each half a
mile in length, devoted entirely to gambling, a vice
to which the Burman is decidedly prone. Their
method of play is strongly reminiscent of roulette.
Into the top of a small tower, a marble or small
ball is placed, which passing through a spiral
channel, runs out at the base on to a circular
board, and settles in one of the many red or green
indentations. A red and
green cloth about 12
feet long is stretched from the board along the
ground, and sitting on both sides are persons of all

ages, backing for pice and rupees, the colour in

which, in their the ball will fall and
opinion,
receiving in the event of winning an equivalent
to the amount staked. Judging by the thousands
thus occupied it appeared to be a most popular
form of amusement.
Under gaudily painted 'Shamianas,' dancing,
to the accompaniment of the curious Burmese
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 135

music, was indulged in, the shamianas being

'
'

surrounded by thousands of onlookers, whilst

marionette and other shows were exhibited from
immense cars mounted on wheels^ which were
occasionally dragged by hundreds of men to the
different parts of the fair ground. These cars
were in the form of pagodas, boats and hideous-
looking figures of huge dimensions, with mechani-
cally moving heads, eyes and limbs, profusely
decorated with tinsel, glass and paint.
Another feature which caused great delight to the
easily pleased crowds, was an elephant one hundred
paper on a bamboo
feet in height, constructed of
framework. The trunk was made
to move in most
life-like manner being worked from the inside by

means of some mechanical device.

Towards the end of the last day of the fair, after
the people have satiated themselves with the various
forms of amusement provided, the crowning event,
the burning of the body, takes place. This is per-
formed to the accompaniment of musical instruments,
clashing of cymbals, gong and tom-toms, the firing
of guns and the explosion of myriads of crackers
and fireworks. Then amid the shrieks and
acclamation of the people, and much general horse-
play, during which the corpse itself sometimes comes
into rough usage, the body is finally consigned to
the flames. It is almost impossible to describe the
brilliancy of the scene during the daytime, the
lustrous colours of the native costumes, the glitter-
ing glass and tinsel decorations of the cars, the
gorgeously painted and decorated hideous figures,
136 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
resplendent with gold leaf and tinsel, sparkling in
the sun. These intermingled with the yellow
robes of the '
hpongyis,' the flowers and the brightly
painted umbrellas, are dazzling in the extreme,
whilst rising majestically over all this brilliant

collection of colour is the splendid Arrakan Pagoda,

a mass of gold from its pinnacle to its base, com-
pleting a scene of exquisite beauty.
On my return I arrived at Shanzu Station in

time for the train due at 4-35, but the native

station clerk informed me that they usually looked
for it Rather than wait nearly four
at 8 o'clock.
hours, I decided to walk and found that the road '

to Mandalay' was the dustiest, dirtiest and most

noisome I had ever experienced. The filthy
ditches by the road-side, the loathsome looking
cabins, huts or whatever they might be designated
— pigsties would be palaces in comparison to some
of them —I really think that our friend Rudyard
Kipling must have taken some other road, if he
—
ever went there at all, but however my bath was —
very acceptable when I did arrive at the Club,
where a well-served dinner and a game at billiards
restored my equanimity and I retired to the haunted '

chamber.
 CHAPTER XXIII

Early next morning I left Rangoon, where I

for
spent two days before leaving for Penang.
The excitement and alarm 1 experienced when
leaving Rangoon will ever be indelibly impressed
upon my mind. I have had many hairbreadth
'scapes and '-moving accidents by flood and field
but never felt quite so near my end, as I did when
in a 'sampan' on the Irrawaddy. The ship which
was to take me to Penang was timed to leave
Rangoon at 7 a.m. sharp, so at 5 a.m. I went down
to the little riverside landing stage, accompanied by
my 'boy' Jairham Jugga. It was pitch dark and
the light of a lantern flitting about here and there
served to make the darkness more pronounced. I

chartered a 'sampan'in which all our belongings

were stowed, and directed the boatman to take us
to the S.S. Nevasa. He said ha knew the ship,
and we started on the journey, the boatman standing
gondola fashion, and using a pair of sculls. He
struggled up the river against a perfect torrent of
tide, and when nearly exhausted arrived at the

wrong vessel ! We then drifted back simply at the

mercy of the current, the boatman pulling his
hardest, I expected every moment the poor wretch
woiild drop from exhaustion as he battled unavail-
13?
138 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
ingly against the tide. Presently we were drawn
and away we went sucked close
into a kind of eddy,
under the propeller of a vessel, where we nearly
capsized. Horrible thoughts of alligators flashed
through my mind, and by nothing short of a miracle
we were freed again,and shot down, and across
the river obliquely to where the current was less
powerful. We then crept back up stream hugging
the shore, over and under ropes, by which barges
were moored to the river bank. At length, quite
suddenly it seemed, the morning broke, and we saw
a vessel move from her moorings and steam slowly
down stream. I felt sure it was the Nevasa and
as missing it would cost me at least five hundred
pounds, my anxiety and excitement may be
imagined. I told the boatman to go down stream

as hard as he could pull and we went flying along,

when shouts from another vessel attracted our
attention, 'Ere yer are sir, 'ere yer are sir,' was
the greeting, and I recognised my friend the
Captain of the Nevasa. After repeated attempts a
rope was thrown to us, and after considerable
difficulty, I got safely aboard, having made a solemn

resolution never to go in a sampan again

'
a futile
' ;

vow as will be seen hereafter The Nevasa left

!

precisely at 7 o'clock, but the wretched thing only

went across the bar to Hastings, to take in cargo,
and did not start on the voyage to Penang until
4-45 p.m. ! I was the only saloon passenger, but
we shipped a great number of coolies and
Chinamen, 3,000 tons of rice, eight lions, three
tigers, six bears, twenty horses, a number of goats
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 139

and an elephant, all hoisted on board by means of

a steam crane. Several horses kicked and struggled
so violently that they fell into the sea, and were
rescued with great difficulty. The elephant was
swung on board, and the moment he touched the
deck commenced to run amok,' causing a stampede
'

amongst the crew, and some time elapsed before he

was finally secured.
There is nothing to chronicle of this short voyage,
but after three clear days' sail we anchored off
Penang, where I found that I had to risk a '
sam-
pan journey to the shore.
'
I drove in a rickshaw
to the Eastern Oriental Hotel, close to the sea
front, where I was exceedingly comfortable. It was
blazing hot, the glare of the white roads being
almost blinding.
Penang is a pretty place, the town being laid out
on the American plan. The inhabitants are
principally Chinese, and Chinese shops, Chinese
joss houses, abound everywhere. The rich drive
about in the smartest of European carriages, with
the finest horses, their women folk being handsomely
dressed, and wearing thousands of pounds worth of
diamonds, pearls and other jewels. The Chinaman
is a shrewd business man, monopolising the greater

part of the trade of the city, and living in the most

palatial houses in Penang and its suburbs.

The town is flanked with hills 3,300 feet high,
at the which fine botanical gardens are
foot of
situated, and a waterfall not unlike the Powerscourt
fall in Ireland on a smaller scale. On the summit is
,, the Crag Hotel, to which patrons are conveyed in
140 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
chairs, and which is much frequented as a bracing
resort.
did fairly good business in Penang, and sailed
I

forSingapore on i6th February on board the- Dutch

boat the Maha Vajirunhis. There were fourteen
saloon passengers, including two missionaries, who
'
improved the shining hour ' by selling foreign
stamps to the other passengers. Here I made my
first acquaintance with a Dutch wife. This state-
ment, at first blush, perhaps requires a little

explanation. A Dutch wife is a long hard pillow,

five or six feet in length, and twelve to fifteen inches
in diameter. When in bed, it is cuddled between
the arms and legs to allow the air to circulate
around the limbs, a very necessary precaution in

these hot climates.

The food on board was, to me, novel and curious ;

and I cannot say I relished it. Still it was Hobson's

choice, so I did my best.
The approach to Singapore was exceedingly
pretty as we steamed through hundreds of small
islands, here and there a single palm tree standing
up out of the sea quite by itself. The beautiful
entrance to the harbour, through a narrow channel
was picturesque in the extreme. The high pre-
cipitous hills on either side were luxuriant with
vegetation, and dotted with elegant private
mansions.
Once more I had to risk the journey ashore in a
'
sampan.' This time it was exceedingly rough, and
seemed a little dangerous, but intimacy with danger
perhaps made me callous, |^and we landed in safety.
A MAGICIAJSr IN MANY LANDS 141

09
ej)
e
U
142 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
It was the Chinese New Year, and a general hoH-
day was observed in consequence. All the places
of business were closed, the post office included.
I drove around the Chinese quarter which is ex-
tensive, and looks most prosperous. The streets,
shops and houses were draped in the gaudiest
coloured silks, red, blue and yellow predominating.
Enormous Chinese lanterns, each large enough to
hold a person, helped to decorate the place, in
honour of the festive season. New Year is a time
of great rejoicing, the Chinese making it a custom to
exchange presents with each other at midnight
;

on the last day of the old year, large quantities of

crackers and fireworks were exploded, guns dis-
charged, and high carnival held by all classes.
The smartest club is the Singapore, and numbers
amongst its members the leading merchants, bankers
and officials of the place. The Tanglin Club and
the German Club each boast a large membership
and are both installed in handsome premises.
My entertainments at the Town Hall were well
patronised, the Governor Sir F. Swettenham and
suite being present on my opening night, and the
performances proved a financial success, which after
all is the most important consideration.

I visited the splendid Botanical gardens of which

Singapore deservedly boasts, and after a week in

Singapore, I left for Hong-Kong, on board the
P. & O. S.S. Plassy, this voyage being the maiden
trip of that splendid steamer. We experienced
very rough weather, but the last day of the voyage
being much smoother, the ladies were en evidence
'
A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 143

a
Q
144 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
and I gave a performance in the evening, after which
a collection, realising a considerable sum, was made
on behalf of that admirable charity, the Royal
Alfred Institution. We reached Hong-Kong at

7 p.m., and anchored in the harbour for the night.

Viewed from the ship after dark, Hong-Kong
presents a most fairy-like appearance, the lights of
the town and in the houses, which stretch far away
to the top of the peak, having a most charming
effect.

The next morning we assembled for medical

inspection after which we went ashore. I stayed
at the Hong-Kong Hotel, where I was made as
comfortable as could possibly wish to be.
I

Hong-Kong, an important British possession, is

an island io|^ miles long and from two to five miles

broad. It has an area of 29 square miles, and a
total population of a trifle over 297,000, of which
between seven and eight thousand are Europeans
or Americans. It has also a floating population of

Chinese numbering 32,000, living in sampans and

harbour-boats. Victoria City, generally spoken of
as Hong-Kong, is situated on the north coast of
the island, and has a frontage of four miles. The
broadest part of the city is the central portion,
which is about half a mile across, whilst the eastern
and western portions vary from two to three
hundred yards. It is built in three terraces, upon
the mountain slope, which rises to the height of 1,825
feet above the sea. The Praya or Esplanade is
'
'

devoted to shipping, docks and harbour works.

Crossing the Queen's Road, the most important
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 145

commercial street in Hong-Kong, the second

terrace is and there the Government
reached
House, Cathedral and other public buildings are
found, amid clumps of palms, beautifully laid out
gardens, luxuriant in verdure and rich semi-tropical
vegetation. The upper layer is known as the
'
Peak and is reached by means of a convenient
'

cable-tramway. Its highest point has a signalling

station built upon it for the benefit of vessels enter-
ing or leaving the harbour. There is also a very
fine hotelon the summit, and in the neighbourhood,
stretching down the mountain side, to the second
stratum, many private houses, villa residences and
bungalows, belonging to the wealthy residents, are
situated.
From the Peak, on a clear day, a magnificent
panoramic view of the harbour crowded with war-
ships and merchantmen of every nation, is obtained ;

on one occasion I counted as many as thirty-eight

men-of-war lying at anchorage.
A 'rickshaw ride of about two miles, eastward
past the barracks, and the Happy Valley is reached.
Here, surrounded by hills, upon a beautiful level
plain,which constitutes the Valley,' the lovely race
'

course is situated. During race week, which is

usually at the end of February, or the beginning of
March, it is quite a gala time in Hong-Kong. The
streets are policed by Indian Sepoys and Sikhs, who
have great control, and keep the motley crowds in
good order.
The Hong-Kong club, very conveniently located
on the esplanade and overlooking the harbour, is one
K
146 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
of the finest clubs in the far East. I had the
privilege of honorary membership, and was pleased
to be able to avail myself of the Club's hospitality.
The German Club has also fine premises admirably
suited to the requirements of its large membership.
The streets of Hong-Kong, especially towards
the western portion, simply swarm with human
beings —a motley heterogeneous mass, representing
nearly every country on the face of the globe.
Hindoos, Sikhs, Malays, Jews, Parsees, Cingalese
and Mahometans, jostle each other in the streets
and market places, whilst the ubiquitous British '

Jack Tar' saunters leisurely through the crowded

thoroughfares, smoking his cigar in stately
magnificence, as unconcernedly as if he were
promenading the Whitechapel Road. The
Chinaman, of course, predominates, and the same-
ness of facial expression is remarkable. Except
for disparity of ages, they are as like as '
peas in
a pod '
— indeed monotonously alike. I believe
their only means of identity is their small individual
peculiarities. heard a Chinaman when speaking
I

of another, distinguish him as being the man with

a chop-dollar face, meaning that the man was
'
'

marked with the small-pox. The origin of this

expression, comes from a custom of certain firms
marking the genuine dollars which pass through
their hands, with a small punch mark, of Chinese
characters signifying the name of the firm a ;

guarantee that the coins are not counterfeit.

I gave a series of performances at the Theatre

Royal, City Hall, which were excellently patronised

;
 A MAGICIAJSr IN MANY LANDS 147

or as one of the Chinese ushers was careful to

me Every man plenty too much come
explain to '

magic man's pidgin.' The Chinaman's pidgin

English sounds very curious to those unaccustomed
to hear it. It is fairly expressive though enig-

matical. asked a Chinaman why the sampans

I

or native boats always had a large eye painted on

either side of the bow, he replied, No got eye no '

can see ; if no can see how can walkey walkey.'

On one occasion a servant-man desired to know
how I liked my breakfast eggs cooked. Upon my
him
telling to fry them, his ready answer came in

one unbroken breath, '

No can fly em ; fly em spoil
em ; boil em can do.' The following is a small
vocabulary of useful words in pidgin English.

chop chop quickly maskee no matter

chop mark topside higher up (upstairs)
man-man stop joss religion
sputum damaged savvy understand
iny me chow chow food
pidgin business pieces thing, article

side place, home fa/f^/^ fetch, carry, get, buy

talkee said bobbely disturbance, noise
how-fashion which way, or how chin-chin a greeting.

Four verses of our old friend '

Excelsior '
in pidgin
English will give a fair idea of how it is put into
practice.

EXCELSIOR— (Topside Hi-yah)

That nightee time begin chop-chop,
One young man walkee no can stop —
Maskee snow, maskee ice,

He cally flag with chop so nice. —Topside Hi-yah t

148 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
He too rauchee solly one piece eye
Look — —
see sharp so all same my, !

He talkee largey, talkee stlong,

Too muchee culio, all same gong. — Topside Hi-yah !

Inside that house he look —see light,

And evely loom got fire so blight.
—
He look see plenty ice more high,
Inside he mouth he plenty cly. —Topside Hi-j'ah !

Old man talkee

—
No can walk'
'

'
By'mby lain come welly dark, —
'
Hab got water welly wide.'
'
Maskee ! my wantchee go topside. —Topside Hi-yah !

Business is generally transacted between natives

and foreigners in this jargon, the Chinese readily
acquiring a superficial knowledge of English,
sufficient to render themselves intelligible.

I walked along the Praya one evening at sunset,

and was astonished to see the immense number of

people living in the sampans and harbour-boats.
Also the great number of children of tender ages,
practically unattended, and in many cases, them-
selves taking care of the boats. It was a matter

of great wonderment to me that the little ones did

not more often tumble into the sea, for they ran
about the boats, and climbed from one to another
in the most daring manner. As the sun went down
great quantities of crackers were exploded on the
boats, and women with large sheets of burning-
paper, trailed the fire along the gunwales, waved
the lighted paper around the bow and stern, and
licked every part of the boat with the flame, pre-
sumably to drive away the evil spirits. In addition
to their idols, before which joss-sticks and odoriferous
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 149

woods are kept burning, on many of the boats

ancestors' bones are actually preserved, underneath
the decks. How this floating population manage
to provide food for themselves and their families is

a marvel. It would indeed be impossible but for

their sober habits and the extreme cheapness of
their daily food.
Hong-Kong possesses a fine market where the
natives purchase every variety of food stuff excellent
in and moderate in
quality price. Among the
Chinese delicacies on sale will be found owls,
hawks, edible bird's nests for soup, dog, cat, horse-
flesh, ducks and eggs varying from one to two
years old, green with age. Milk, butter, or cheese
is rarely seen, but curious fish are on the stalls ; with
many toothsome to the Chinese
tit-bits taste, but
loathsome to the European.
The news of my success at the theatre soon
spread, and I was in request both at the Chinese
Theatre, and at the Tea-gardens in the happy
Valley. My fame also reached as far as Canton,
and I received an invitation from the British
residents to pay them a visit, an entertainment
being arranged to take place at the Sha-mien Club
Theatre. Accompanied by the 'rajah travelling
for pleasure' I left Hong-Kong at 7 a.m. on board
the Ho-rain a very comfortable little steamer, which
arrived at Canton at 4 p.m. I put up at the
Victoria Hotel, and at 9 p.m. gave my entertain-
ment.
 CHAPTER XXIV
The next day, being provided by the secretary
with a guide, chairs and bearers, I took with me a
basket containing tiffin and some whisky and cigars
- it being impossible to procure these things in the
native city —and wentupon my tour of inspection.
The city area, enclosed by the walls, has a cir-
cumference of about six miles. There are twelve
gates, besides two water gates which permit boats
to enter the enclosed area, and to pass across the
city. We entered by the South Gate, nearest the
Pearl river, and found the streets long and straight,
but very narrow, there being only just room for a
palanquin chair to be carried through. The shops
meet overhead, and it is only occasionally possible to
get a glimpse of the sky between the houses. These
shops contain productions from every quarter of the
globe, the merchants being civil, diligent and per-
severing in their business, and, as a class, most
honourable in their transactions. The Chinaman
indeed is an expert man of business, and his
integrity undoubted. His word is his bond, and if
he malkes an error in judgment, or his bargain
does not quite come up to expectations, he does not
grumble, but says '
maskee (no matter) and
' tries to

profit by the experience thus gained. My bearers

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 151

dumped my chair down upon the execution ground,

adirty, muddy open space about 40 feet by 80 feet,
surrounded by tumble-down dilapidated houses and
sheds. Against the crumbling walls huge pots were
stacked containing human remains. Heaps of loath-
some garbage, broken pots and filth of the most
revolting description, were strewn about, and here
and there portions of the body of a man who had

Hacked to pieces, Canton

been sentenced to be hacked to pieces were lying

about the ground. The old man, who appeared to
be in charge of the place, raked over some dirty
matting and produced thei'efrom a horrible-looking
head, which he offered me for inspection, which
needless to say I declined.
The streets of Canton are mostly paved and are
much cleaner than the generality of Chinese cities
The usual open ditches of filth are, of course, in
152 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
evidence, and on three outer sides of the city there
is a canal or ditch of foul, sloughy matter, where,
packed side by side, are thousands of boats which
form the dwelling-places of a vast number of its
population. The river bank in front of the city is
entirely concealed by thousands of these junks and
so-called flower-boats, which are arranged parallel
to each other for a distance of five miles, the whole
resembling a floating city. I passed through the

mazy streets, the bearers often carrying the poles of

the palanquin into a shop, in order, to turn the sharp
right angle of a street. So. we came to a large open
space flanked with a high surmounted by three
hill,

forts.. The pagoda is situated

large five-storied
upon this hill, and ascending to its summit a fine
panprama of Canton is obtained. There I took my
lunch, whilst my bearers had a well-earned rest.
On the returri journey I made numerous purchases,
and my guide insisted upon my inspecting the cele-
brated water clock. This being one of the chief
sights of the city, I alighted from my chair and he
took me along a very dirty courtyard, up the stairs
of a ricketty old ramshackle kind of a pigeon loft,

some distance higher than the roofs of the surround-

ing houses, and there was the clock, which I was
informed had not stopped for many hundreds of
years. No one would for a moment suppose it to
be a clock. It Mas simply a collection of old tubs

and crockery basins, from which water dripped,

percolating through a rotten piece of wood, doing
duty as a spigot into the basin below, that basin
dripping in turn to a lower one, and so on until the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 153

lowest is reached. At regular intervals the water

is emptied from the lowest basin into the top one,
and is used over again. It was a terribly dilapidated
affair, and ill repaid the exertion of stair-climbing to
which I had been subjected.

Just before departing, I witnessed the last

moments of a man sentenced to death by strangu-
lation. He
was placed in a species of cage about 8
feet in height, his head protruding through a hole
in the top, his feet resting upon some pieces of
stone piled up sufficiently high to support the body.
One stone was removed daily, until the poor wretch
hung unsupported by the neck and finally succumbed
to exhaustion. His relatives were 'improving the
shining hour' by making ^a small charge to allow
persons to photograph the miserable creature in his
death agony.
A rainstorm passing over the city, my visit was
rather abruptly brought to an end. I do not
remember ever having seen the rain fall so heavily.
It ran in rivers off the housetops and poured down
on to the roof of my chair till really thought it
I

would be broken in. The waterproof blinds of the

chair were drawn, but one was actually washed
completely away. What with the noise as the rain
drummed on the roofs, and the shouting of the
bearers, as they hurried through the narrow streets,
my return journey was quite exciting. Upon
arriving at Sha-mien, I found that my boy '

Jairham Jugga had already placed the baggage on

board the steamer Fatshan, and we left at 5 p.m.
All the evening and during the greater part of the
154 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
nio'ht the terrible storm raged, the hghtning
flashes most brilHantly illuminating the water, and

Native condemned to death by slow strangulation

the surrounding country. So terrific indeed did the

A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 155

u
D
a
a
S
o
U
_g.
'£
00

cs

c
156 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
storm become that we were in great danger, the
steamer being unable to proceed, and twice during
the night it became necessary to anchor. It was a
dreadful voyage, and we did not arrive at Hong-
Kong until 9 a.m. the next day.
I little more
should have been pleased to spend a
time in Hong-Kong, but my was unavoidably
visit

curtailed, as my agent wired me to come on at '

once' to Shanghai. Accordingly I booked my

passage on the North German Lloyd Steamship
Stuttgart and left on 9th March.
The S.'S. Stuttgart arrived in the Woosung
River on the 12th of March, after a very enjoyable
three days passage, in beautiful weather, calm seas
and cool refreshing breezes. We anchored at
II a.m. off Gutzlaff island, in consequence of there
being insufficient draught of water to enable our
ship to proceed. At i p.m. we continued our
journey until within ten miles of Shanghai, where
the passengers and baggage were transferred to a
steam launch which arrived at Shanghai Bend
at 6 p.m.
The up the Woosung River, lined- as it is
trip
with factories and commercial buildings,
yards,
bearing the names of English and American firms
reminded me very much of a journey up the Thames
from say Erith to Woolwich or Deptford. There
was nothing I saw which conveyed to me the idea
that I was in China, but the moment I stepped
ashore, the natives' costumes, the one-wheeled
barrows, and other curious vehicles, together with
the monotonous expression of countenance on the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 157

faces of the people, soon dispelled the illusion, and

there was no doubting that I really was among the
Celestials. I went direct to the Astor House
Hotel, one of the most comfortable hotels in which
it has been my good fortune to stay.
Shanghai is divided into three distinct parts or
settlements, in addition to the Chinese quarter. In
passing up the river the American settlement is

first reached, the Soochow creek separating it from

the English settlement. Further up the river is the
French colony, with a much smaller area than the
other two, and infringing on the native city. The
Chinese city is surrounded by walls four miles in
circumference, pierced by seven gates. It is, I think
without exception, the filthiest place possible to
imagine. The streets are very narrow, and reek
with mud and decomposing matter of the foulest
description. The houses are nothing but dilapidated
hovels of the worst class, huddled together in close

contact, without a semblance of sanitary arrange-

ment, and exemplify a combination of all the worst
characteristics of Chinese cities. Offal and filth of
the most revolting" nature is carted about in open
tubs in these narrow thoroughfares which literally
teem with human beings. Mountebanks, fortune
and story-tellers, obscene peep shows, gambling
and joss houses, stinking dens, and cripples covered
with festering sores swarm the streets, making it
almost impossible to thread one's way along what
is by no means a desirable locality for a foreign '

devil to find himself alone in after dark.

' There
are no buildings of any interest or with any claim
 158 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
to architectural beauty, the only redeeming feature
of the city being its geographical position. Outside
the Chinese quarters a very handsome bund runs
along the frontage of the French and English
settlements, upon which some elegant buildings are
erected especially in the English quarter. Notably
the Hong-Kong and Shanghai bank, the Shanghai
Club, Masonic Hall, besides several hotels and many
handsome shops.
Crossing the fine bridge over the Soochow creek
one finds the Astor House Hotel, and the com-
mencement of the American settlement in which
are numerous shops and business offices and
flanking these are building yards, docks and
shipping offices. In the English quarter is a very
fine Theatre and the Masonic Hall is also used for
dramatic representations. I gave performances
at both places, also at the County Club and
Astor House Hotel, all with very satisfactory
results.'

Some of the police in the settlements are equipped

in uniforms similar to the English police, others are
Chinamen wearing a kind of German uniform with
peculiar conical, white painted hats, having a large
number in lieu of a badge on the front part.
The Sikh police, however, are by far the finest
body of men. Their uniform is similar to the
English police except that they wear khaki putties,
and with their large red and black turbans have a
commanding appearance. There are a few horses
and carriages in Shanghai, but the rickshaw, of
which there are thousands, is the most popular form
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 159

of conveyance. Small books of tickets are sold at

the clubs and other places, and are paid to the
drivers in lieu of cash. The tickets are redeemed

Native Tea-shops and Dancing-girl houses, Shanghai

at certain offices upon application, a great con-

venience to residents, who ride even the shortest
distances. The rickshaw men are more civil than
i6o A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
those in Colombo, of whom I had occasion to speak
in a previous chapter.
The English settlement has a fine race-course and
sports ground, with a club adjoining the course.
The Country Club is a few miles out, on the
Bubbling-well Road, which takes its name from a
well by the roadside the water of which is cold, but
is continually bubbling as though it were boiling.

This club is well appointed and has a pretty little

theatre attached, being quite a fashionable European
resort.
saw a great deal to interest me in Shanghai,
I

and have to thank my friend Mr Sam Shonock for

his great kindness and hospitality. Through his
instrumentality I saw many things I otherwise
should have missed. I have to thank him for my

introduction to the Shanghai Club, the daily rendez-

vous of the business men and merchants who trans-
act much of their business there. It is a small
Stock Exchange where everybody seems to com-
bine business with a desire to drink the greatest
number of cocktails in the shortest possible time.
Indeed it is the most hospitable place I have ever
found
I received an invitation one day to visit a gentle-
man charming domain a few miles
at his house, a
out in the country. The house was surrounded by
beautiful gardens and lawns, but the numerous
Chinese graves upon the estate formed quite an
eyesore. The proprietor determined to remove
them. The right to do this he purchased from the
descendants, at the moderate price of two dollars a
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS [6i

body. Who can say after that, the Chinaman does

not love his forefather ?
I met my friend Mr Percy Brough in Shanghai,
and in his company visited the Court of the Chief
Chinese Magistrate and saw for the first time the
administration of Chinese justice. The court room

Rickshaws

was about i8 feet square, one side entirely open,

with a step down on to a pavement which was
covered with a verandah roof. At the back of the
Court room, facing the opening, was a table six
feet in length covered with red cloth, upon which
were palettes of red and black paint and a number
1 62 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
of finely pointed brushes used in lieu of pens and
ink. Behind the table was a high-backed chair,
with two smaller chairs by its side. The sides of
the space in front of the table were occupied by
forty or fifty persons, of whom about a dozen were
Chinese policemen wearing their quaint conical hats.
Four of these wore a white feather hanging down
the back of the hat, which indicated that they were
executioners. On the pavement outside were about
fifty more persons jostling each other in
or sixty
their endeavour to see what was going on within.
The magistrate, wearing his mandarin's hat and
peacock feather, entered and took his seat at the
table, Brough and I occupying the two smaller
chairs. Immediately a fearful hubbub commenced,
and a poor wretched looking Chinaman was dragged
by the queue through the crowd at the entrance,
'
'

and unceremoniously thrown upon the ground in

front of the table. The magistrate, police and on-
lookers began to talk at once, the prisoner
all

chiming in by howling most piteously. Presently

there was a lull, the magistrate shouted something
in a squeaky voice, and I gathered that sentence
had been passed, for the prisoner, still howling,
immediately unfastened his nether garment. He
was quickly seized by two of the white-feathered
gentlemen and thrown face downwards to the
ground on the pavement in view of the magistrate.
One of the police placed his knee between the
prisoner's shoulders, and winding his long pig-tail
round his hand to get a better grip, dragged his
victim's head back until I thought the poor wretch
 A MAGICIAJST IN MANY LANDS 163

would have been strangled. The other policeman

pulled the prisoner's garment down and dragged
the front part through the prisoner's legs and twisted
it round the back binding the prisoners legs securely

together at the ankles. He then knelt across the

back of the man's legs, pinning him helplessly to the
ground, there to receive four hundred strokes of the
bamboo, the punishment to which he had been con-
demned. One of the other executioners, armed
with a flat bamboo rod about two feet six inches in
length, one inch in breadth, and a quarter of an inch
in thickness, squatted on his heels by the side of the
prisoner, and commenced dealing a rapid succession
of strokes upon the back part of the prisoner's thigh,
but apparently using no great force. At first I felt
inclined to smile, at what seemed to be an exceed- -

ingly mild punishment, but soon the severity of it

became evident, as a white circular patch four inches

in diameter formed on the thigh, and soon became
blue like an immense bruise. At the conclusion
of the first 1 00 strokes, the executioner was replaced

by another, the strokes still falling on the same spot

until presently the centre of the blue patch broke,
and a red spot, the size of a shilling appeared,
quickly spreading until the whole of the patch was'
quite raw. At the end of the second hundred the
first executioner resumed his place, and although
his tapping did notseem to be so severe, the poor
wretched prisoner howled more and more piteously.
It was explained to me that the bamboo rod had

been exchanged for one, the under side of which

was quite rough, and as each stroke was now
1 64 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
accompanied with a slight backward dragging
movement, the raw flesh became lacerated in a
terrible manner. At this point of the proceedings
my friend Brough beat a hasty retreat into the open
space where he was seized with a violent attack of
vomiting. At the conclusion of the 400 strokes
the poor wretched recipient was quite exhausted
and scarcely able to move. However, he was
roughly lifted and with blows and buffetings was
hurried away out of the magistrate's presence. The
next case was one in which a woman was bamboo'd
on the hand as a punishment for stealing. Her
hand was rested palm upward on a stand four feet
in height, the finger-tips being placed underneath
a fixed strap, whilst around the wrist another strap
was placed, the ends, passing through two holes in
the stand, were attached to a pedal which when
pressed, held the hand immovable in position, one
executioner placed his foot on the pedal, whilst the
other administered 200 strokes. Needless to say
that the woman's screams were heart-rending. In
a case of perjury 200 strokes of the bamboo upon
the lips was delivered as a punishment, the bamboo
used on was a foot long and only a
this occasion
half-inch broad, but the punishment and suffering
caused thereby was terrible, the lips swelling and
protruding to an enormous extent, and causing
intense pain and disfigurement.
 CHAPTER XXV
I HAD intimated to my friend Mr Shonock how
delighted I should be to partake of a real Chinese
dinner, and accordingly found myself one of a party
of nine, five Europeans and four Chinese gentlemen,
who made all the arrangements and very kindly
volunteered to see us through. We arrived at the
house where the banquet was to take place and,
with many kow-tows, were shown into the dining-
room. Upon the table, which was laid for nine
persons, there were at least fifty little dishes of
curious looking food-stuffs, jams, etc., and small
saucers filled medley of non-appetising
with a
looking trifles, of the character of which I had no
idea. We were each provided with a small basin
three inches in diameter and a pair of chop-sticks,
-
which I found required a deal of practice to properly
manipulate with any certainty. The first course
was served in a basin six inches in diameter, placed
in the centre of the table, from which we helped
ourselves. I judged the contents of the basin to

be tripe, but it proved to be a greater delicacy, namely

'
shark's fin !
' Each person dipped into the basin
with his chop-sticks and took therefrom a piece of
fin and placed it in the little basin in front of him.

I tried in turn, but my piece of fin kept slipping out

165
1 66 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
of the chop-sticks. At last after many attempts I

succeeded in landing a piece into my little basin,

when the difficulty seemed to be to get it out
again ! However, after repeated efforts I managed
to hold it for a moment firmly enough to enable me
to bite a piece off. It tasted very like cod's tail,

was glutinous but insipid and wanted salt and bread,

neither of which commodities could be obtained to
make it palatable. Next followed what appeared
to me to be monkey-nuts, but were really dried
melon-seeds. Upon these also we Europeans
practised with our chop-sticks and I soon greatly
improved under the tuition of our Chinese friends.
Small cups of hot shumsu were then served, which
reminded me of bad spirituous sherry, and to which
I did not take at all kindly. A basin of birdsnest
soup was then placed before us. It had the appear-
ance of hot gum with small squares of jelly and
some pigeons' eggs floating in it. Each diner
was supplied with a gigantic mustard spoon, with
which to ladle the soup into our small basins, which
did duty for each course. The soup was not at all
bad, but insipid for lack of salt. More shumsu was
served, then some eggs, a year or two old and quite
green, floating in brine I had to pass this dainty
!

dish Other courses followed consisting of snails,

!

cockles and small portions of duck wrapped in

dough, but all very insipid to my taste. Finally
more shumsu, and our dinner was concluded Each !

was then provided with a Chinese pipe, and a

singing girl deputed to wait on each of us.
Her duty was to keep placing in the bowl of the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 167

pipe the tiniest pinch of tobacco. With a dexterous

wave of the hand a smouldering spill she held burst
into a flamefrom which the pipe was lighted, when
one whiff entirely consumed the tobacco. This
operation was repeated innumerable times to the
great satisfaction of the young ladies. We left,

perfectly .satisfied with the experience, my European

friends agreeing with me that we had better repair
to the club and get something to eat. I am afraid
I should never be able to master the use of chop-
sticks. When using them I am always reminded
of a gentleman who was one day entertaining an
aged friend to lunch, and noticing his guest making
peculiar contortions with his mouth, ventured to
remark that possibly he was not enjoying his lunch.
'
Oh yes, I am,' said he, but you see I have only
!
'

one tooth, and I am trying to spear a pickled onion,'

— a feat which seemed to me to be on a par with
holding anything with a pair of chop-sticks.
I up the evening by visiting a native
finished
conjuror, who gave me a private performance at his
home. He was remarkably clever in his particular
style, and by far eclipsed anyone I had previously

seen. I tried to induce him to come to Europe,

but the difficulties he put in the way made it

impossible for me to make the necessary arrange-

ments for his visit.
The proprietor of the Chinese Theatre at
Soochow engaged me to give a series of perform-
ances, extending over a week. I therefore gladly
accepted the hospitality of Mr Olsen the European
head of the police, who sent his house-boat down
i68 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the Yane-tse-Keano^ for me, together with an
mvi tation to his house during my stay in Soochov

Street in Soochow, 6 ft. wide

The house-boat was attached to what is calleil tlie

'train,' tliat is a strijig of junks and barges which

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 169

are towed by a powerful tug up to Soochow-city

twice a week. The boat was replete with every
comfort, the cabin being very daintily upholstered.
My boy Jairham Jugga accompanied m'e, and
'
'

also two of Mr Olsen's Chinese servants, who

cooked and looked after my creature wants. The
'
train left Shanghai and threaded its way slowly
'

through a mass of junks, barges and post-boats in

the Soochow creek. It was not until 6 p.m. that

the train
'
had anything like a clear course, by
'

which time it was quite dark and pouring with rain.

By some means another train got across our '
'

course, and we got mixed up in a most hopeless

muddle, the barges and junks drifting between each
other, fouling the ropes and cables which caused a
delay of more than an hour. Whilst we were
waiting one of the Chinese boys came into the '
'

cabin holding a red carp-like fish by the tail.

he said, my make e fly.' Well I had
!
'
Master '
'

seen many flying fish, so I thought it quite un-

necessary, and I told him so, especially as it was
raining. He looked surprised and said, '
my b'long
number one man cook, no can fly my make e boil.'
Then it dawned on me that it was meant for my
supper, and very well indeed he cooked and served
it. My boy Jairham had disappeared into a junk
' '

ahead of the house-boat, and, after an excellent

supper, I went to bed. A perfect tempest was
howling around, and the water splashing unceasingly
against the sides of my cabin. I had been asleep

some time when I was awakened by a terrible

hullabaloo. The train had stopped, the boatmen
' '
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
were swearing at each other in Chinese — that is, I

for the language was

supposed it to be swearing,
awful. some time I learned that all the
After
commotion was in consequence of the tug having
broken her propeller. do nothing to
I could
facilitate matters, so retired again, and after six

hours further delay, another tug, coming down

the river, took us in tow
and we proceeded on our
journey.
At 8 a.m. my cook came to
"25^(^1 "iG and said '
my makee chop
^^3^L fly.' And he did and I

•J^ M made it fly afterwards at my

breakfast
We arrived at Soochow at
[-30 p.m. instead of 8 a.m.
our scheduled time. There I

found Mr Olsen on the landing-

stage waiting to recei\-e me,
and was dul)' installed in most
comfortable quarters in the
Police Station. I had a splen-
did suite of rooms ox'crlooking
Visiting card of
the native city, whilst Jairham
Governor Neil, Soochow
made himself comfortable
somewhere in the cells l^elow amongst the prisoners.
Next day I drove to the theatre to make my
arrangements, and when arri\'ed a phi)- liad just
1

commenced. I had a seat in what corresponded

to our stalls, and was greatly amused at what 1 saw.
1 have not the remotest idea of what the pki)' was
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 171

about, but the masks were hideous, the dresses

gorgeous, and the unearthly noise made by what
they were pleased to designate a band, provided a
perfect pandemonium. The stage was a platform,
open on three sides, quite devoid of scenery. The
performers made their exits and their entrances
'

by two curtain-covered openings at the back of the

stage, whilst the furniture and properties were openly
placed in position by attendants who were not sup-
posed to be seen. Many of the players also in full
view of the audience, were not supposed to be en '

evidence until they took up certain positions on the

'

stage.
The audience were seated in rows, with alternately
a chair and then a square table. Immediately on
being seated a man came along carrying an armful
of hot flannels from which the boiling water had just
been wrung, he handed these to the persons seated
in the stalls, who promptly commenced mopping
their faces with them, another attendant brought
cups of tea, each cup having a small saucer which
formed a lid to it. This acts as a strainer, and keeps
the tea leaves in the cup, and is pushed slightly
aside when it is desired to drink the tea.
The audience do not applaud, but express their
satisfaction by grunting, which requires an acquired
taste to call encouraging. In my own performances,
I found extremely difficult to play in such deathly
it

silence, which however does not signify lack of

appreciation. On one occasion, as I was concluding
a trick in which I produced hundreds of small flags,
the audience rushed on to the stage in their anxiety
172 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
to obtain them. I learned afterwards that they
desired them as charms to keep away evil spirits.
Also during a performance they would come up on
the stage unasked, and examine my apparatus, and
I had the greatest difficulty in keeping my properties
from them.
But I was anything but satisfied with my recep-
tion at my first performance. Silence reigned
supreme and as the audience left the theatre slowly
and silently, I thought to myself what a ghastly
failure I have made. However the Chinese
manager came and said they were delighted and
that my fame would spread throughout the city.
His prophecy came true, for the next night the
theatre was packed to suffocation. I think the
theatre in which I played was the only decent
theatre in the place, for I visited two or three
others, which were packed with people of both
sexes, and the plays there enacted were of the most
filthy and obscene description.

There is a Chinese proverb which says to be '

supremely happy, a man should be born in Soo-

chow, live in Canton, and die in Liang-chow,' the
last named city being situated at the foot of the
Nau Shau highlands. Soochow is a great com-
mercial centre, the silk industry being represented
by a greater variety of goods than are produced
anywhere else in the Empire. Under the guidance
of the proprietor Mr Denigri, I had the pleasure
of inspecting one of the chief Filature Works and
was greatly impressed by the extremely orderly
manner in which the factory was conducted, and
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 173

the clever and up-to-date machinery used in the

various processes.
Of course a visit to the native city was imperative ;

my friend Mr Olsen and I therefore arrived at one

of the city gates, and were conveyed in palanquin

Native conveyance. Sometimes the wheelbarrow

carried ten people at a time

chairs through the city, the streets of which were

very narrow, but a trifle cleaner than Canton.
There is an area of three miles by two and a half
miles with walls around 14 miles in circumference, and
enclosing forty miles of canals and nearly a million
174 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
inhabitants. Formerly a city of handsome buildings,
and known as Beautiful Soo, it was captured by the
Taipings in i860 and practically reduced to ruins.
Through the enterprise of the late General Gordon it
was recovered in 1865. Some idea may be gathered
of its original splendour from the native plan
engraved on a large slab of marble which has been
preserved since 1247, also from some of the ruins
themselves, notably the large pagoda, a marvellous
structure reaching to nine stories ; the splendid
gardens and remains of some of the interiors, and
the Namen of the Governor. M. Tsai, Minister
for Foreign Affairs, offered me his hospitality, and
I wa,s also received by the Governor Kwei, son-in-
law to the late Marquis Tseng. I took tea with
him and his suite, and greatly amused him with

some of my litde table tricks. He was delighted,

and laughed most heartily, but when, as we walked
in the gardens together, I gave him various hints
upon the subject of horticulture, and Ibroke a
laurel leaf in halves, taking from it a dollar, he said
he thought I 'b'long devil pidgin.'
On the following day the Governor's two sons
and M. Tsai, on behalf of the Governor paid a
return visit, and presented me with signed photo-
graphs, four fans and four chests of tea. Mr Olsen
wished me to see the mixed court, at which he sits
as a magistrate in the event of an European being
charged. The presiding magistrate was Mr Li, to
whom I was introduced and had a seat on the
bench. One of the cases heard was that of a
man who had kidnapped and outraged a girl, and
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 175

sold her to a farmer for 140 dollars, after which

he proceeded to abduct her from the farmer. His
case was adjudicated upon and he was ordered to
refund the 140 dollars and receive 400 cuts of the

Native God, Soochow

bamboo. Failing paying the money he was to be

bamboo'd until he did. He had already received
two doses of 400 each, so on this occasion as he had
not refunded the cash he received 800 strokes.
176 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
After this fearful punishment he was a really
pitiable object, but was lifted in front of Mr Li,

who ordered him 1,000 more if the money w:as not

paid within five days. His friends have the expense
of keeping and feeding the prisoner whilst he is in
prison, and the object of the recurring sentences
is to put pressure upon his relatives to induce them

to find the money for him.

My eight days' sojourn in Soochow was full of
interest and Mr Olsen's hospitality and kindness
I fear I shall never be able to repay. I returned
to Shanghai in his house-boat, bearing with me
charming recollections of Beautiful Soo.'
'

Then, having taken leave of all my friends in

Shanghai, I embarked on the Nipon Yusen Kaisha
steamer Saikio Maru en route for Japan.
 CHAPTER XXVI
Leaving Shanghai by the Saikio iMani, a fine boat
which had already done service as a cruiser during
the Japan and China war, I arrived at Nagasaki
a pretty little town located on the shores of a
beautiful harbour, four miles in length, and about one
mile in breadth, sheltered by an amphitheatre of
picturesque hills reaching to the height of 1500 feet.
The city, which is nearly a mile square, is situated at
the upper or north end of the harbour. It is neatly

laid out ; the streets, crossing each other at right

angles, are laid out with a strip of paving down the
centre of the roadway. The population is about
7,000. I was greatly pleased with this, my first

glimpse of Japan, and amused myself by wandering

about, and making purchases at the curious little
shops. I found groups of Russian naval and military
officers, lavishly spending money, and was told that
this was the policy they adopted for the purpose of
ingratiating themselves with the natives, by whom
they were always welcomed. My stay in Nagasaki
was brief, our vessel leaving for the next port, Maji,
a thriving town on the Kuishui side of the
little

Shimonoseki strait. It is a great coal depot and

the starting point of the Kuishiu railway. On the
opposite side of the strait is the town of Bakau,
M 177
178 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
impinging on the entrance to the Inland Sea. It

was in this town the attempt was made on the Hfe

of Li Hung Chang, during the peace discussions at
Shimoneski. The straits are almost surrounded by-
high narrow opening to the Inland
fortified hills, the
-Sea being only wide enough to admit one ship at
a time to pass through.
We entered Inland Sea with its
the beautiful
and queer old daunis castles and
countless islands,
the picturesque and richly cultivated hills, sloping
with precipitous declivity to the water's edge. So
steep are these slopes that a joke is told to
hill

travellers passing through for the first time that '

the oxen and ponies used for ploughing on these

declivities, have their legs longer on one side than
on the other to enable them to walk the steep
—
mountain sides with comfort' they are not told what
happens when the animals turn at the end of the
furrows I
! was enchanted with the varied and
kaleidoscopic scenery, continually presented to our
view with lovely well- wooded waves of green hills

lapping to the sea, the passage through which ended

all too soon. Arriving at Kobe and passing the
medical examination to which passengers are
subjected, we went Jairham Jugga, my
ashore.
Hindoo servant, was with me and he created quite
a sensation as he paraded the streets in his native
costume, and became a good walking advertisement
for the performances I anticipated giving. I soon
made which I was elected an
friends at the club, of
honorary memtjer, and under its auspices I was
duly advertised to present a series of entertainments
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 179

at the theatre. had the stage beautifully decorated,

I

and reckoned on doing fairly good business. On

the first night just before the doors were about to
be opened and the public admitted, I received a
from a police official who firmly but politely in-
visit

formed me that my performance could not take place.

I was exceedingly surprised at this information.
'
Why not ? ' I asked him.
He had not taken out an actor's
replied that I

licence. I informed him that I had already paid a

heavy tax which I considered a great injustice as ;

it was not based upon the receipts, but upon the

seating capacity of the house, and I was not aware

that any further demand would be made upon me.
He said that every actor had to take out a licence
which would cost 30 yen (about ^3 120). I had
never in my life laid claim to being an actor,
although I remembered that I had been elected a
member of the Savage Club under the qualification
of a 'comedian.' But I fancied I saw a way out of
the difficulty. I explained to my friend the '
officious

official ' that I was not an actor in the usual accepta-

tion of the word, but that my performance consisted

of exhibitions of sleight of hand and magic. I

made him by
this further clear topretending to
swallow a dollar and reproducing it from the end
of my nose. He looked perplexed but was perfectly
satisfied and said the performance might take place
if took out a five yen licence as a 'buffoon.'
I

'
Bertram the buffoon,' is nearly alliterative but
hardly dignified, but I paid my five yen, and the
public were admitted.
i8o A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Kobe is a foreign settlement adjoining the old
Japanese town of Hiogo and has a population of
220,000. It is the shipping port of Osaka the chief
manufacturing town of Japan and it is exceedingly

License for an actor in Japan for one year

under the head of Buffoon

healthy, the pure dry air giving it special advantages

over many other towns. On the hill side at the
back of the town, and overlooking the harbour,
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS i8i

numbers of pretty little villas have been erected

which are occupied by the leading residents of the
settlement. I had several opportunities of visiting

these charming little domiciles, the European

owners of which in many cases were married to
Japanese wives. In such circumstances the houses
were then furnished, half in European style, the
other half in Japanese and occupied by the wife,
children and Japanese servants. The settlement
presents an animated and busy appearance especially
in the native quarter where the bright dresses of
many of the little Japanese women about the
streets, the Geisha girls driving in the rickshaws,
the gaudily decorated shops with flags and la.nterns
displayed, and the neat black and gold uniforms of
the Sinart little but consequential officials, make up
a bright and happy looking scene. The native
houses in Kobe struck me as fairly clean and
comfortable contrasting greatly with some parts of
many of the larger cities of Japan, where I regret
to say much squalor is to be found.
I left Kobe armed with innumerable introductions

to persons of position in Yokohama and Tokyo,

which greatly added to the enjoyment of my visit.
The train journey to Yokohama interested me, the
country being well cultivated and neatly laid out in
little patches, and like everything Japanese made

up of a lot of littles; but Fmust admit I was a trifle

disappointed,; even although I was there during the
cherry-blossom season. Perhaps I had expected
too much. On the route we passed that gracefully
curving volcanic mountain Fuji-san, more generally
1 82 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
known as Fuji Yama —the snow-covered summit
of which rises to the height of 12,395 feet above
sea level exceedingly beautiful, as its name Peer-
;
'

less Mount ' The Japanese are proud of

denotes.
this notable landmark of Japan and it is accorded
by them a very prominent position in nearly every
form of Japanese decorative art.
Yokohama is less Japanese than some places in
Japan remote from foreign influence the male:

population seem to be of two distinct types of men ;

if they are not small, perky and polite, they are big,

bloated and vulgar I prefer the perky little man.

;

There must have been a great change in the

country during the last twenty or thirty years. In
lieu of the bright-coloured picturesque garments
previously worn, the people now look solemn and
sombre. A number of the women dress in a
great
bluish black or slate coloured material, many of them
with blackened teeth, giving them a repulsive appear-
ance, whilst the majority of the men, other than
the coolie class, wear long Inverness capes, and
hard bowler hats. The long cloak hanging over
stockinged feet and and open wooden
ankles,
sandal-like clogs, raised upon two transverse pieces
of keriwood, about three inches from the ground,
looks most incongruous, and most certainly
destroys the picturesque appearance of the people.
I had not been my good fortune
regretted that it

to see these interesting folk garbed as at the time

of the old Kwazoku (nobility) and the Shizoku
(warriors) when the warrior carried two swords,
one to be drawn at the time of war, and the other
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS '83

with which he took his own by command of the

life

Mikado. No doubt the recent war has caused a

_• _
.
^.-~™^ .-.-^-.^
n"" -^
1
84 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
and Europeans is by no means
their treatment of
improved. But the same old engaging courtesy
and kindliness is still preserved in the upper and
middle classes.
,My entertainments at the Public Hall were a
great success, most of the European population
and Japanese upper class patronising my perform-
ances. Unfortunately my season was abruptly
terminated in consequence of a series of earthquake
shocks rendering it unsafe for an audience to
assemble in the building. The Box'
of Curios,' the
humorous paper of Yokohama, notified the fact in
the following terms :
— 'If the earthquakes continue,
Bertram the prestidigitator will be pressed to dig
a "tater" for a living.'

saw most that was to be seen in Yokohama,

I

and came to the conclusion that it was more like

an American city than anything else I could
imagine. Whilst in Yokohama I received a
command to appear before the Mikado, or Emperor,
as he prefers to be named. I therefore left for
Tokio, and arrived at the Imperial Hotel, at which
I stayed. Here I found a letter from the British
Legation awaiting my arrival, and a telephonic
message later desired me to call at the Legation.
I drove with the secretary to the Palace and made
all arrangements. It was decided by Baron
Saunomiya, that I should first give a performance
at the Palace at Hayama before His Imperial
Highness the Crown Prince.
 CHAPTER XXVII
The palace at Tokio, a remnant of feudal times,
is a castle enclosure surrounded by a deep moat with
high scarped stone ramparts, planted with pine trees
grown in fantastic shapes. In place of the old
'
Yoshiki,' handsome Government offices have been
erected. These buildings are constructed with
wooden beams, cunningly bolted into the walls, as
a provision against the effects of earthquake, and
prove a very efficient safeguard. The gardens
surrounding the buildings are very beautiful, the
colours of the trees and plants harmonising in an
amazing manner. The part of the city near and
approaching the palace, the well-to-do Tokio, can
boast some fine buildings, and good specimens of
architecture which lend an air of affluence to that
locality, but a drive around the city will soon
convince one that there is behind this veneer
of prosperity a shocking amount of poverty,
squalor and wretchedness very seldom revealed
to the ordinary tourist. The Japanese
are proud
of their reputation for and therefore
cleanliness,

keep the poorest of the world's poor and their

squalidity as far as possible from sight. Yet here
ismisery of the worst form, a quarter of a million
persons, huddled in hovels, in perfect ignorance
whence their next meal will come. The tourist
i8s
1 86 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
will visit the beautiful Uyeno Park, and be
delighted, but his heart would break were he to
know the misery and suffering to be found in

the adjacent Shitaya district. Here the poor

exist in an atmosphere of foul stench, filthy water
and putrefying garbage, and in their struggle
against the pangs of hunger and starvation gladly
devour fish entrails, bad rice and offal raked out

Imperial Palace Bridge, Tokyo

of the refuse barrel. The privations and sufferings

of these penniless people are terrible to behold.
The outcasts of all other nations of the world
live in the lap of luxury when compared with
the misery endured by this quarter of a million
and practically homeless wretches.
starving- Japan
may become a big power, but by the adoption of
western ideas the happiness of her children has
gone for ever.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 187

Tokio has a two horse tramcar which commences

at Shimbasi railway terminus, and passing through
the main street of the city branches off, one part to
Uyeno and the other to Asakusa but most of the;

wheeled passenger traffic of the city is in the hands

of an army of 50,000 jinriksha coolies who look
upon travellers as legitimate prey, and even follow

Wisteria and Kioto Bridge, Temple, Tokyo

and pester native pedestrians with such persistency

that they are regarded by the community as a
perfect nuisance. It is not an easy matter to
control 50,000 coolies who have nothing to lose
except their upon which they place little
lives,

value consequently they have to be endured.

;

The population of Tokio is variously estimated

in a list of cities of over 20,000 inhabitants, but
1 88 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the population is stated to be 1,333,256. This,
I should think, is about correct. Other computa-
tions give it as varying from 800,000 to a million
which is in my opinion a very low estimate.
Having made preparation for my appearance
before His Imperial Highness the Crown Prince,
a Japanese gentleman deputed to act as my guide
arrived from the palace about 2 p.m., and accom-
panied me to the Shimbasi terminus where we
booked to Dzuahi, a small station just beyond
Kamakura, the old capital of Japan. On arrival
we found several jinrikshas awaiting us, in which
we rode about seven miles along the coast, until
we came to Hayama, the palace or seaside resort
of His Imperial Highness. The house is not
large, but purely Japanese, standing in the centre
of some beautiful gardens which overlook the sea.
Upon entering we were requested to remove our
boots and list slippers were provided. I was
ushered very mysteriously and with nuch kow-
towing through sliding panels or papered doors,
into a room which was scrupulously clean, very
formal, and devoid of decoration and furniture.
The was covered with straw matting, stretched
floor
tightly and well padded underneath. This room,
which was set apart for my use, communicated by
means of sliding panels with the next apartment,
in which I was to give my performance. I was
then ushered into another room,
where a very
excellent European dinner was provided for me.
I was shortly informed that the Crown Prince
would receive me, and I was conducted into his
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 189

presence, and presented to His Imperial Highness

who conversed with me in French. He desired
me to commence my entertainment, which I did,
the audience consisting of several members of the
Royal Family and a number of the suite. His
Highness was much surprised and amused at
many of the tricks I presented, evincing quite
childish glee at the production of several hundreds
of small flags from tiny sheets of tissue paper, and
going down upon his hands and knees he gathered
the flags from the floor. He came to the table
and curiously inspected nearly everything I used
in my performance ; in fact, I had great difficulty
in inducing him to keep his seat during the enter-
tainment. At the conclusion he expressed himself
wonderstruck, and delighted. He asked me for
a signed photograph which I had the honour of
presenting, and taking leave I was ushered into
another room where a court official stood at a table
upon which was a handsome present, which with
many kow-tows the official presented to me on
His Highness's behalf. 1 returned to Tokio
accompanied by Baron Saunomiya, who spoke
English fluently, and informed me that he
was requested by His Highness to compliment
me upon my entertainment, with which he had
not only been amazed but charmed.
To enumerate and describe the places I visited
and the sights I saw in Japan would fill the
pages of more than one book. In the limited
space of one volume describing my journey round
the world, I must in a measure curtail my account.
190 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 191

o
>.

O
192 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
I will therefore make but a passing mention of
Miyanoshita, which is a favourite resort, famous
for its hot mineral springs, which abound in the
neighbourhood. It is quite close to Yokohama
and therefore well patronised, though for the
hard-worked person in quest of ease and rest, a
more secluded spot should be chosen than this
modern spa, but its close proximity to Yokohama
makes it, as the guide book says, well worth a '

visit.' The scenery around is very beautiful,

thereby adding to the attractions of the place.
One could not dream of leaving Japan without
paying a visit to Nikko,
that shrine of shrines
the resting place of the dead Shoguns. Leaving
the train at Utsonomiya, thence thirty miles by
'rickshaw, one arrives at the sacred bridge at Nikko.
To attempt anything like a description of its

myths, legends, and temples would be futile, but

to sum it up, it is a most marvellous conglomera-
tion of tombs, exquisite carving of indescribable
grace, chaste lacquer work of marvellous beauty
in which the Japanese show such consummate
skill, avenues of cedars (cryptomeria Japonica)
interspersed with azaleas, camellias, cherry and
plum blossoms, iris and scarlet camellias, the whole
being a blaze of colour, and an almost indescribable
fairy-like scene.
Buried away in the midst of mountains of stately
pines and~ cedars, through which only occasional
glimpses of the sky can be obtained, is the red
lacquer Sacred Bridge, which, spanning the
dancing waters, forms the entrance into the holy
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 193

ground of Nikko. The objects of interest to the

traveller are legion. The marvellous temples and
pagodas and the
shrines, the wonderful bronzes, the
beautiful Yomeimon gate, a dream of white and
gold, with its gilt trellis work, and magnificent
carvings of birds and dragons, require the pen of
Sir Edwin Arnold to describe. I fear I cannot
itmust be seen to be realised.
Kioto is the oldest city of Japan, founded in 793.
It remained the capital of the Empire for a thou-

sand years. In those days it was named Saikio

signifying Western City, in contradistinction to
Tokio which was then known as Yeddo or Eastern
City. Kioto has a present population of about
380,000 it never exceeded a half million even in
;

its palmiest days. The streets are wide and laid

out in rectangular style, the houses are small and
seem smaller in consequence of the wide streets.
Taking it all together it is the best arranged and per-
haps the best administered city of Japan. Abound-
ino- as it does with Shinto and Buddhist shrines and

temples which are placed outside the city proper,

and close by on the borders of the beautiful lake
Biwa the monasteries Ishiyamadera and INIiidera,
very large numbers of visitors are attracted.
There is a profusion of cherry and azalea blossom
in the vicinitv, and variety entertainments being-
the order of the day there is little wonder that the
city seems to resemble a continual fair or place of
amusement. The flower festival brings enormous
numbers of visitors annually to the city, at which
time the dancing girls, gaily dressed in bright
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194 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
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A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 195

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196 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
coloured kimonos and carrying skeleton umbrellas
intertwined with blossoms, execute quaint dances
to the delight of the onlookers. The knees of the
girls being hampered by the tightness of the petti-
coats they wear and their sandals being held only
by a strip of list between the great and second toes,
causes them to shuffle which gives them an appear-
ance, especially when in Indian file, of dancing a
cake walk. The cherry dances take place when
the cherry trees are in blossom. On these occasions
the most celebrated dancers of the country arrive in
Kioto to take part in them. The dresses worn by
the dancers are exquisite both in colour and richness
of materials. The dances themselves are fine
examples of colour grouping and elegant posturing.
The bodies of the dancers sway with willowy languor
in graceful curving rhythmic movements, the motion
of the feet being scarcely perceptible. The arms
are elegantly waved, whilst opening and shutting,
twisting and twirling their fans in a manner dis-
playing great beauty of form and action. Quaint
festival cars of enormous size, many of them
reaching far above the housetops, parade the streets,
followed by thousands of sightseers, who in common
with most Orientals, rejoice in what the Hindoo
would call a '
tamasha.'
Near Kioto are the picturesque Hozugawa
Rapids with fierce cataracts, water and surf
dashing, rushing, leaping and roaring at the bottom
of a deep ravine, in a manner that one would think
a boat could hardly live in it, yet parties continually
enjoy the exhilarating amusement of this switchback-
A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
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197

P
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1 98 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
like method of travelling. The surrounding scenery
is perfectly magnificent and should not be missed
by the visitor to Kioto.
I have spoken but briefly of most of the cities I

have visited in Japan, many of the smaller towns

and villages I am compelled to leave unnoticed, the
professional nature of my visit preventing me from
leaving the beaten tracks, or making long excursions
from the larger towns. In the big cities the tendency
of Angliaize was most obvious. A large proportion
of the natives speak English, and railway tickets
and notices, telegraph forms, street names and
trade advertisements are printed in Japanese and
English. English methods are adopted in trading.
Telegraph boys in blue serge suits, on bicycles dash
about the streets and look as if they had just ridden
down from St Martin-le-Grand. Hundreds of male
passengers coming in by the railways, attendants at
hotels, and clerks in many offices affect European
clothes. The Government officials dress in faultless
English style, frock coats and top hats being the
order of the day. The coolies in their tight-fitting
hose, and dark blue cotton tunics with large white or
red Japanese characters or other devices worked on
the backs are picturesque and seem to be the only
survivors of the olden times ; and moreover the
coolie does not wear a '
boxer ' hat. The military
and police uniforms are modelled on the French
pattern with '
Kepi ' caps, and in many cases the
men carry swords, nearly as big as themselves ;

but they are well-dressed, very smart and up-to-

date. Japanese ladies of rank appear by com-
A MAGICIAN IN [MANY [LANDS 199

o
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200 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
mand at court functions in European dress, the
only part of the female population to adhere to the
ancient picturesque costumes being the Geisha girls
and the occupants of the Yoshiwaras.
 CHAPTER XXVIII

Japanese family parties often patronise the large

hotels where they take European meals. I have
noticed that on these occasions the tooth-pick is
diligently used between the courses, the quill being
kept handily behind the ear, to be in readiness for
constant use.
I was anxious to see a Japanese conjuror, but he
seems to be remarkable for his absence. His place
is taken by the juggler, who makes most wonderful

use of his feet in nearly all of his tricks. Whether

he is supporting a column of butter-tubs, balancing
a screen, ladder, or bamboo pole, up which a boy
climbs, or spinning a huge tub upon the soles of
his feet, the performer meanwhile lying on his back,
his power of balance is truly wonderful, and wire
walking and wrestling are also favourite exhibitions,
in both of which the Japanese are unsurpassed.
The subjects of Japanese plays are mostly
historicaland are generally represented with the
utmost realism. .The more blood the better the
Japanese audterrce seem pleased hence the array
;

of gory canvases and picture posters usually dis-

played outside the theatre, notifying to the public
the bloodthirsty scenes to be witnessed within. On
entering the theatre immediately facing the doors
202 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS

JAPANESE JUGGLERS
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 203

was a pile of and sandals thrown indis-

clogs
criminately into a heap so that it would seem
impossible to redistribute them to their proper
owners. I was requested to take off my boots.
This I refused to do, but the box office keeper with
an eye to business rather than let me go charged
—
me two yen (about 4s. 6d.) the proper payment

Geisha girl in bed

should have been nearer lod .^conducted me up

some rickety stairs, brought me a chair and placed
me on a platform by the side of the boxes. I was
the only European in the building and my appear-
ance created quite a commotion among the audience.
The stage was a large platform with one proscenium ;

having a dirty old blue curtain, very much torn,

hanging from near the roof. The rag blew about '
'
204 A MAGICIAN IN MiVNY LANDS
occasionally showing the preparations being made
behind. The audience who were seated quite close
up to the stage front rank amused themselves
during the entractes, by peeping underneath the

Yoshiwara Girl

curtain. On each side of the stage is a platform

about four feet in width, which leads to the front
of the house. This is hanamichi or
called the '
'

flowery way, and is used by the principal actors as

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 205

an entrance or exit. There are no footlights, but

on the right of the stage the floor drops about two
feet below the stage level here the
; clapper '

kneels, and beats the stage with two wooden

blocks, in lieu of a bell. It is also a receptacle for
properties not in immediate use on the stage.
Over this sunken part, about six feet from the floor
is an opening in the wall, 10 feet by 5 feet in which

sit the chorus, three in number, who drone out the

words of the play being enacted.

When the curtain was pulled aside the scene
was not at all bad. It was made up of a series of
screens; a profile tree, held up by 'dogs,' stood a
little to the O.P. side, and near it a kind of three

sided box without a top, four feet square and a foot

deep. This was placed on the floor and represented
a well. The attendants on the stage moved the
scenery or properties about quite openly and were
not supposed to be seen by the audience. The
play was well acted, the climax being that two
children were condemned to slay their own father,
who to save them trouble obligingly disembowelled
himself (Kara-Kiri). The villain of the piece was
cast into the well, where he remained for about five
minutes in full view of the audience. He then
crawled out at the back of the box-lid on his hands
and knees and so off the stage the audience saw
;

him go but that did not matter they had seen him
; ;

thrown in
I went with a party of five to a Geisha house, to
partake of a Japanese dinner, and it was about the
tamest affair I have ever experienced. The house
206 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 207

was on the top of a hill and surrounded by-

situated
extensive grounds. We were admitted at a wicket
gate, the janitor with a lantern guiding us up a
winding pathway to the house, it reminded one
very much of entering a convent. Ten or a dozen
girls were kneeling in a row at the entrance to
receive us, which they did with much sucking in of
the breath and heads
bowing to the floor.
We removed our
shoes and were con-
ducted to a large
room about 35 feet
by 25, covered with
soft matting, but no
furniture. When we
were tired of standing
we sat on the floor,

which to me after
three minutes became
the most uncomfort-
able position I had
ever endured. The
girls, whose ages
Blind Street Musician
might have been any-
thing between ten and twenty, were pretty
and richly attired, but very shy. Their hair
which was elaborately decorated with gilt

combs, wonderful looking hairpins, butterflies

and flowers, was a perfect work of art. After
a while these little musumes commenced stealing
out one or two at a time, returning with small
2o8 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
tables about eight inches high, aud lacquer trays
containing little cups or basins of various kinds of
food stuffs. Floating in a sort of warm syrup were
morsels of glutinous substance, which looked like
turtle fat. This we had to remove and convey to
our mouths by means of a pair of chop-sticks.
They brought us little bits of fish, small white
cakes, sweetmeats, shrimps, fruits, beans, chicken
and eggs, and out of the rooms, and each
shuffling in
time returning with some quaint little dainty, which
they placed upon the tiny stool-like tables before
us. As each delicate morsel was finished the
young lady poured out a small cup of sake, a
villainous beverage tasting like warm weak ale
and water with a dash of bad sherry in it horrible ;

stuff, it seemed to be the correct thing to hand the

cup to the lady to drink first, she then hands it

back, bowing her head to the floor and sucking in
a long breath of satisfaction. The banquet reminded
me of a lot of children sitting on the floor playing
shop, a most juvenile affair, and I ached all over. '

The debris was cleared and three girls entered

gorgeously arrayed and performed a dance which
consisted of graceful posturing and manipulating
their fans to the accompaniment of a three-stringed
guitar, and a koto, an instrument six feet in length
resembling an elongated violin case fitted with
fiddle strings. Most of the girls danced in batches,
but there was very little variation in the dances.
As a change and to cause a little diversion I gave
a small exhibition of sleight of hand to their
intense surprise and wonderment, with the result
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 209

that none of them would venture near me after-

wards. At the conclusion of the evening the Geisha
came to the entrance of the house and repeated
the head bowing and long breath taking as we
bade them adieu and departed, the attendant again
lighting our pathway to the public thoroughfare.
If I were asked how my impressions of Japan

A lady's foot —Japan

compared with my ideas preconceived of the
country, I should very reluctantly have to admit
that I was much disappointed. I found it over-
rated and far from realising the accepted picture
formed in the minds of the untravelled majority.
The beautiful colours, universal neatness and
cleanliness, and simplicity one expects to find, of
which one has learned to believe Japan is the
o
210 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
'
beau ideal,' is Neither are the people
a myth.
particularly original, although wonderfully imitative
of occidental manners, customs and ideas. Pictures
are drawn of Japan as a country where all is bright
gaily dressed folks living butterfly lives, the sun
always shining, a land of swaying lanterns, gold-
fish, ever blooming flowers, and happiness reigning
supreme. This may be the impression conveyed
to the mind of the ordinary tourist who looks only
for the beautiful, and sees Japan in the cherry and
plum blossom season, visiting only the brightest of
show places and attending the gayest festivals.
He knows nothing of the terrible cold of winter,
the fearful privations of the half starved thousands,
and the hard struggle for existence the poor endure,
harder in Japan than anywhere else in the world.
Did the ordinary tourist know this, accounts
altogether too rosy, which are presented to the
world, would be somewhat modified. Japan is too
suddenly becoming Anglicised one false step may
;

wreck her for ever.

 CHAPTER XXIX
Once more I am
on the briny ocean, skipping
along through the South Channel of the Inland
Sea, on board the Hakata Maru bound for Hong
Kong where I have to change '
busses ' for
Australia. The daily routine of a journey by sea
varies so little, that even speaking a ship in mid-
ocean becomes an important event. Some excite-
ment therefore was ca:used one morning when we
passed quite close to H.M.S. Sermione, tearing
along, throwing the white foam up over her bows,
as she ploughed through the beautiful blue sea, a
perfect picture. We heard afterwards that she was
hastening to protect the P. & O. S.S. Sobraon which
had gone ashore somewhere on the China Coast.
In conversation with a few of the Sobraon s
passengers in Hong Kong I learned that the
owners of the junks, chartered to remove the
baggage from the stranded ship, turned out to be
pirates, and decamped with everything leaving the
passengers with no redress against the P. & O.
Company which to me seemed very hard. In
;

Hong Kong, I met Robert Brough, under whose

auspices I was to tour Australia. My Hindoo
servant Jairham was to go with me, but before I
was able to get a passage granted for him I had
212 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
to enter into a bond for ;^ioo that he left Australia
within six months of landing. The S.S. Guthrie
leftHong Kong on 9th May, the Brough Comedy
Company and myself being the only saloon
passengers. The days passed in delightful
indolence, eating, drinking, reading, writing and
dozing being our only occupations. The sea was
as a rule smooth, although we had several days of
very heavy rain. J gave a display of card-tricks
one evening in the saloon, for the amusement of
our party, and to the intense delight of the Chinese
servant boys on board. The day after the exhibi-
tion the first officer Percy Brough and
invited
myself to take hands at poker in the officers'
saloon. After the game had commenced the first
officer's servant, who had seen me on the night
previously, poked his head inside the door and
touching his master on the arm, said pointing to
me, You no can play poker with that master, him
'

catchee catchee five pieces acee ebby time.' On

1 5th May we crossed the line. Neptune claimed me
as his victim and was duly lathered and shaved,
I

according to ancient custom. Percy Brough was

Neptune. Since commencing this account of my
travels I regret, with the most profound sorrow to
say that poor Percy Brough has passed away.
Poor Perks, we were so fond of him, a fellow of '

infinite jest.' We never knew a dull moment when

Perks was around. Perks, Hamilton, (Brough's
manager) or as he was called Hammy, and I,
were bedfellows, and were so happy. We arrived
at Port Darwin on 19th May and set foot on
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 213

Australian soil for the first time. Thursday Island

was reached on 23rd May, and we went ashore,
to find a few shops and shanties, and in the streets,
which were overgrown with grass, goats and geese
strolling about, as if the place belonged only to

them. We sa\v a few aboriginals, and a little

way out of the town there was quite a large colony
of Japanese who have taken up their abode there.
214 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
on board. We entered the lovely Sydney Harbour,
on I St June passing on our way to the landing
stage the Ophir anchored off Pinchgate island,
having the Duke and Duchess of York on board;
On reaching the Australia Hotel I found that I had
'
'

gained 2 stone 4 lbs in weight, the result of being

unable to take sufficient exercise during the
journey.
Sydney was en f6te, in honour of the visit of the
Duke and Duchess of York, and the streets were
beautifully decorated, much more lavishly indeed
than anything I have ever seen in London. I was
charmed with the harbour, with its pretty little
bays, coves and inlets, romantic spots, and delightful
nooks and corners, of which the Sydneyites may
justly be proud. As I was due in Melbourne I
stayed but two days in Sydney, to return later.
Some relatives of mine left England in 1855, and
hearing that they were living at a place named
Talangatta, I determined to find them, and broke
my journey at Albany for that purpose. I found
that a train left Wodonga at 7.30 a.m., and by
paying 1st class return fare and signing an agree-
ment that I would not hold the railway company
responsible if they killed me, I was permitted to
travel in a cattle truck, on a train conveying 200
bullocks. A journey of
35 miles through the
mountains brought us to the township where I duly
discovered my relations, who were overjoyed, I
being the only relative they had seen for close
upon fifty years. I returned to Albany and
continued my journey to Melbourne, where a few
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 215

moments after my arrival at Menzies Hotel, Mr

Norman Menzies took me into the smoke room
and introduced me to the Chief of the Melbourne
Police. He said many complimentary thing's
regarding my ability; but the Chief of the Police was
a bit sceptical and said, 'Well, I've seen all the
conjurors, and they are all more or less alike to
me, but this gentleman whom you say has such
if

extraordinary ability, can tell me what I have in

my waistcoat pocket, I will believe him.' I

immediately said, '

I know, a tooth.' I never
saw anyone so dumbfounded he walked in my life,

straight out of the place to the Athenaeum Club

and talked of the wonderful man he had just seen.
He was interviewed by the Argus, and long
accounts appeared next morning about the
marvellous wizard and his wonderful powers,
which proved a splendid advertisement. I had
never seen, this gentleman before in my life. I
had not been in Melbourne fifteen minutes, how
did I do it? I will let you into the secret. It

was simply a fine guess which happened to come

'
'

off all rightnothing else (isn't it wonderful ?). On

;

my opening night we turned hundreds away from

the doors. The Athenaeum Hall was packed, the
audience was pleased, and my success assured. If

one can please a Melbourne audience, which is

very exacting, one can please any audience in the
world. I was elected aa honorary member of all the
clubs, and during my stay made many good
friends. Leaving Melbourne I played in forty-three
towns and cities of the Colonies, but to write a
 2i6 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
detailed account of each would, I imagine exhaust
the patience of my reader. Therefore I will give
a general description of the mentioning
towns,
only items of especial interest, which I noted in
my diary from day to day. In consequence of the
visit of the Duke and Duchess of York, a general

holiday was observed in Sydney and Melbourne.

The decorations, fireworks, illuminations, dances
and free out of door shows, many provided by the
municipalities affording the people all the amuse-
ment they required, the consequence being, that
the entertainment business came to a perfect
standstill. The were doing absolutely
theatres
nothing, and concert artistes of good repute, were
playing to the 'Wood family,' namely empty
benches. I therefore determined to get away
from the festivities, and try the back blocks as
'
'

the country townships and suburbs are called by

the dwellers in the cities. But even there the
effect of the Royal visit was apparent, for the
people withdrew their savings from the small banks,
and went down to Sydney and Melbourne to spend
them at the general holiday. The first town I
went to was Bendigo, where my opening was far
from satisfactory, but as everybody I met said, ah '

but wait until Wednesday,' I remained cheerful.

'
If Bendigo wins the football match Eaglehurst v.
Bendigo, the theatre will be packed,' they added.
Bendigo lost, three goals to nil, so Bendigo did not
come in its thousands to see the wizard. It then
transpired that the inhabitants were broke, having
drawn out of the savings banks ^70,000 in one
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 217

week, which had been spent in Melbourne. At

Castlemaine I played to a packed house, but the
audience was very rowdy, uncouth, unwashed and
vulgar, and jeered at, and hooted, the few decent
well-behaved folks as they came into the front
seats. I was much disappointed in the behaviour
of the general public, and surprised that steps were
not taken to suppress such hooliganism. At
Maryborough, the Major received me at the
railway station, and drove me in a carriage and
pair to the Town Hall where, in the Mayor's par-
lour, I was introduced to the town councillors, who
were present at the performance in the evening,
and with them a sprinkling of other nice people.
But many were kept away by the rowdy element,
which was so pronounced, that I had repeatedly to
threaten to stop the performance, unless they
behaved somewhat like Christians. Ballarat was
in similar financial straits owing to the Royal visit,

so I settled down fora few days' enjoyment, and

was fortunate in making the acquaintance of a
Mr Walker, a well-respected resident of the city.
He took me about the city and suburbs, and one
day drove me five-and-forty miles across country.
He had a fine buggy and a pair of splendid
' '

thoroughbred chestnuts. This was an experience ;

we went flying along at full gallop, over fields,

ploughed and otherwise, ditches, streams, through
the Bush, galloping at breakneck speed. Small
trees and bushes passed between the horses and
were crushed under, or the buggy lifted over in '
'

a remarkable manner, I was floating in space half

21 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the time, a foot and a half off the seat, then down
with a bump. Mr Walker was good for
said this
my liver, well perhaps it was, but what surprised
me was, that the springs stood the strain. Unless
one has had such an experience as this it is difficult

to believe that a '

buggy ' is such a fine cross
country vehicle. The following is a list of the
towns in which I played before reaching Sydney
Albany, Wagga-Wagga, Goulbourn, Bathurst,
Orange, Wellington, Dabbo, Forbes, Parkes,
Monlong, Blaney, Lithgow, Mudgee, Gulgong,
Parramatta, Junee, Cattamundra, Temora, Navan-
dara, Jerilderce, Berrigan, Yarrawonga, Corowa,
Rutherglen, Chiltern, Beechworth, Wangavatta,
Berry, Nowra, Coolangatta.
At Goulbourn I passed a very pleasant afternoon
with Canon Leigh, a delightful old clergyman, who
related some of his thrilling experiences with bush-
rangers. His descriptions were very vivid and
humorous, but at times pathetic. At Bathurst my
audiences were large, but their behaviour so dis-
graceful, that the newspapers had the temerity to
speak of it in strong terms. My manager, Mr
Manning, one of the best fellows in the world,
had resided in Australia for seventeen years and
had never seen a Kangaroo. We were going to
Molong when I espied one near the railway and
several more afterwards. Manning was quite excited
about it and considers himself quite a cornstalk '

now. Lithgow, a thriving little town in New

South Wales, will doubtless become an important

place in the near future. In the locality are coal

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 219

mines and very extensive iron and steel works,

quite a miniature Barrow-in-Furness, buried away
in a valley at the foot of the Zig-Zag railway.
The people are all workers and consequently
better conducted than the idlers found in so many
Australian townships. I have made a special note
in my diary as to the behaviour of the Lithgow
audiences, and I am gla,d to have the opportunity

Prince of Wales Theatre, Gulong

of saying- a good word for the rising little town.

I was also pleased with Mudgee, whose only fault
was its ugly name. From the moment I arrived,
until the time I left, I was treated with the greatest
kindness and consideration. This pretty little
township has nice wide, clean streets and good
shops, the residents look cleaner, better dressed.
220 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
and quite a superior class the larrikin element
:
'
'

being conspicuous by its absence. I did extremely-

good business here. We drove by coach a distance

of forty miles from Mudgee to Gulgong, where we
played in a tin barn, lighted with oil lamps, and
rejoicing in the high sounding appellation of the
Prince of Wales Theatre. When gold was first

discovered there, Gulgong in a short time numbered

a population of 20,000 persons. They took 26 tons
of gold out of the place and then cleared out them-
selves, leaving the present remnant of 1,500 there,
who well patronised my performance. My men
drove back to Mudgee the same night, taking the
baggage with them. My company and self stayed
at the same hotel until the coach left next morning.
We had travelled about ten miles, when we learned
that on the previous evening, on the same road, a
coach had been stuck up and robbed, by bush-
'
'

rangers who took all valuables belonging to the

passengers, except ;^200 one man saved by hiding
it in his stocking. My manager, Mr Manning
thought that as we had more to do
thirty miles
through the bush, it would be a wise precaution
to hide our previous night's takings in a similar
manner. For that purpose he opened his bag, but
the money was not there. He searched his pockets
without success ;
poor chap, he was in a terrible state
At last he gave it up
of mind, and pale as a ghost.
as a bad job, someone must have stolen it. We
travelled another ten miles when he suddenly
remembered that he had placed the money for
safety under his pillow at the inn in which we
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 221

Stayed, and had come away without it. We

arrived at Mudgee
in the evening, and telegraphed
for the cash be sent on by the next coach,
to
fortunately the landlady found it herself, and the
money arrived intact the next morning. The country
through which we drove was perfectly lovely. We
passed hundreds of staked-out claims, and saw
numbers of miners fossicking for gold. How
'
'

they find it is a mystery to me. I once went

My bills atMudgee. Mr Deoneux in foreground,

agent and bill-sticker for Kenna

fossicking at Parkes, for a whole day, but never

saw a shadow of a sign of anything which resembled
gold, and should have felt repaid if I had only
picked up a nugget worth ten shillings. Parkes
is one of those '
one horse towns ' of which there
are so many in Australia. One main street with
two or three offshoots in which hardly a soul is
to be seen, certainly not after dusk. People living
222 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
'
on gold but as poor as church mice. If they were
'

not poor they would not be there. In these town-

ships the men are uncouth, boys impertinent, rude
and unruly. I am inclined to think that the masters
in the state schools are in a measure to blame for
this condition of affairs. They are not strict enough
with the boys, and pay little attention to their
general good behaviour. There are. no State paid
religious teachers in the Colonies, so that practically
the young are without religious training. The small
vices and uncouth manners of the men are imitated
by the boys, and there being no softening influence
at work among them, their good conduct shows
little signs of irnproving. This is not so noticeable
in the large cities, but in most townships the boys
are perfect terrors. They seem to think they have
a right to conduct themselves like their elders, who
do not set them a good example, and they conse-
quently develop into hooligans of the worst type.
During my entertainment at Forbes, I stopped
my performance three times during the evening and
positively refused to go on, in consequence of their
disorderly conduct. The '
hooliganism began
'

before the performance commenced, and culminated

in their taking the screws out of the back rail of a
seat, upon which a boy was sitting. The boy fell

the iron support of the seat back perforated his

stomach, and killed him on the spot.Surely some-
one should be responsible for any continuance of
such reprehensible conduct in a public place of
entertainment.
On my way to Blaney, I saw a notice on a wood-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 223

pile, which did duty as a railway station, that

passengers could stop the trains during the day by
waving the red flag, and after dark, by lighting the
lantern which was suspended there for the purpose.
Not a bad way to run a railway Blaney
station.
consists of one street, one hotel, one shop of each
kind and a School of Art, over the door of which is
a brass plate commemorating the relief of Mafeking.
As there was six inches of snow on the ground
when we arrived, Manning ventured to think that
it might make us Chill Blaney ! As it was, our visit
was a perfect frost.
One of the towns which we honoured by a visit
was Jerilderie. We journeyed across the plains, flat

as a billiard table, thousands of sheep grazing

thereon, and flocks of cockatoos rising by thou-
sands into the air. Eventually we arrived and
put up at Egan's Royal Mail Hotel. Jerilderie is

somewhat famous as being the town which was

'
stuck up by the notorious Ned Kelly gang of
'

bushrangers. They rode into the town and first

'
stuck up the police, and imprisoned them in their
'

own station. They then- took possession of the inn,

now the Royal Mail Hotel, and robbed the Com-
mercial Bank next door. As persons entered the
hotel, Kelly served them with drinks, but allowed
no one to leave the house. Whilst the police were
under lock and key, the gang had the audacity to
take the wives of the policemen to church. They
ill-treated the bank manager, by making him dance
in a state of nudity in the back premises of the inn,
killed a few persons, and got clear away with their
 224 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
plunder.I had a chat with several men who had

been connected with the affair. One was the man

who burnt the books belonging to the bank, and he
described the whole of what took place, re-enacting the
whole scene. Some miles off on the plains was
a tumble-down hut, flourishing under the name
of Cave Hotel, where Kelly and his gang enjoyed
a night's carousal previous to sticking up '
the'

police and town. The same old woman who was

there then, keeps the place now. The Royal Mail
Hotel is much the same as when it was left by
Kelly. Every bullet mark about the place appears
to have a history to speak of which the people of
Jerilderie never seem to tire. One begins almost
to think that they look upon Kelly and his gang
as heroes and martyrs, instead of the disreputable
scoundrels they really were.
The town of Orange, New
South Wales is
192 miles from Sydney, and is a most dreary looking
place, loafers being plentiful. I put up at the
Royal Hotel, a grand name for a miserable hostelry.
The waiter attended us wearing a pair of shabby
trousers, and the sleeves of a dirty shirt tucked up
above the elbows. He was a cheeky sort of fellow,
all the while grumbling at his place, but wouldn't

leave it. He whistled over the food as he carried

it to the table and served gently remon-
us. I

strated with him for whistling and blowing in my

ear which was not at all pleasant, and on my looking
up to speak to him, he recognised me, and said,
'
Hullo Mr Bertram, what are you doing here ?
!

I replied that I was not aware I had the pleasure

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 225

of his acquaintance,when he said, 'Oh, I've often

served you with your dinner at the Crystal Palace,
Sydenham.' Truly a small world is this. I was at
Junee in what is called 'showtime' the Agricultural
;

Show bringing in great numbers from the surround-

ing district but of course a corresponding amount of
competition in the way of amusements. I went to
what is termed a fit-up show, of which there are
many travelling Australia. They had excellent
printing, depicting scenes from the drama '
TJVicu
London Sleeps, Direct from the Royal Princesses
Theatre, London.' One picture showed a woman
walking over the moonlit house-tops, on a telegraph
wire. A view of Waterloo Bridge with a woman
plunging into the Thames was another. A house
on fire, and pictures of handsomely furnished west-
end drawing-rooms, crowded with ladies and
gentlemen dressed in the height of fashion, and
the flaring posters allured the crowds in at every
performance. The Theatre was really a tin shed,

at one end of which was a platform 6 feet deep,

none too strongly fixed up, of loose planks, and a
dirty old cotton cloth hanging on a wire forming a
curtain or act drop. The lighting of the hall and
stage was effected by means of three parafin oil
lamps, two of which were on the stage behind the
curtain and could be plainly seen through the thin
material. There were only three persons in the
company, two men and the leading lady, who
doubled the part of orchestra which consisted of a
small portable flutina, a little out of order, and
played behind the curtain The men did duty as
p
226 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
ticket seller and taker respectively until the hall
was full. Then they went behind and played in
the drama. After an overture by the orchestra,
the curtain was pulled aside and disclosed a piece
of dirty crumpled cretonne stretched across the
stage, the rag split half way up the middle to form
a centre opening. A lot of balderdash was talked,
having no particular meaning, then the ticket-taker
commenced ill-treating the lady, whereupon the
ticket seller appears through the centre opening
'

just in the nick of time, and knocks the villain

down, the lady hurriedly thanks her preserver and
flees off the prompt side to pull the curtain on the
tableau and start the orchestra. The second act or
scene, — I am not sure how it was described, was —
another piece of dirty cretonne somewhat different
in colour to the previous one, but with the addition
of a pair of dirty white curtains one pinned on each
side of the centre opening
'
and two rough boxes
' ;

covered with stray bits of torn cretonne, served for

the furniture of this Park Lane mansion. In this
scene there was an interview between the ticket
seller and the lady, in which she explained to him

how she had escaped from a burning house, by

walking along a telegraph wire to a place of safety.
This was evidently dragged in to realise the poster
so flaringly displayed outside of the hall. The
ticket seller congratulated her upon her fortunate
escape, the audience jeered, and the curtain closed
upon the scene. In the third and last act, the
No I. cretonne cloth was pulled across the stage
in front of the west-end mansion scene, the hero
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 227

and the villain met, each denouncing the other in

the strongest possible terms, until eventually they
agreed to settle by a duel with
their differences
swords. A pair of practice cutlasses
were obligingly
handed on by the lady presiding at the flutina and
a fearful battle ensued to the accompaniment of the
orchestra. The villain was wounded and whilst on the
floor writhing with agony from an imaginary sword
thrust, he pulled out a revolver and shot the
ticket seller in the back. The '
play ' lasted about
an hour and a half, the prices charged for seats for
this swindle were three, two and one shillings, and
the management took thirteen pounds at the door.
Needless to say that everybody was disgusted, each
swearing he would never be taken in again until —
the next time.
My manager decided that it would be advan-
tageous to play Yarrawonga,
at a town on the
borders of Victoria and New South Wales, about
fifty miles from Berrigan, and which, in the absence

of a railway, could only be reached by road. We

chartered a lumbering old coach, which resembled
the Deadwood coach so familiar in Buffalo Bill's
show, and required the greatest nicety in packing
and loading it to get all our impedimenta on board,
and same time keep sufficient room for seven
at the
persons and driver to travel in comfort. However
we managed it, and set out on our journey, amid
derisive cheers and promises of the onlookers to
attend our. inquests. Outside the town we came
across enormous numbers of rabbits, thousands and
thousands of these mammals disporting themselves
228 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
by the roadsides. They have increased to such
an extent that Australia is quite overrun by them ;

and ate regarded as one of the most serious pests

with which the country has to deal. Stringent
measures have been taken by the Government to
check the increase, but with very little success.
When we had completed the first ten miles of our
journey through the scrub and eternal gum trees,
'
'

thousands of which are ring-barked, and with their

bleached, white trunks resemble giant bones, grow-
ing from the earth : we came out on to a bit of
open ground, where I noticed our driver anxiously
looking at the off side wheels. He pulled up and
we discovered that the wretched coach had slipped
out of the leather strings, and looked very much
like toppling over altogether. We lost no time in
members of the company
getting out, and the male
had work to unload. This was terribly
to set to
annoying, made all the more irritating by the dis-
cordant cackle of the Laughing Jackass which,
'
'

whilst we were sweltering in the sun, lifting this

heavy baggage, would perch quite near and shriek
at us like a demon bursting with shrill laughter.
It was most aggravating, and my manager every
now and then would stop and shake his fist 3t the
'
demon saying, I'd give you something to laugh
' '

at me for, if I had a gun, my beauty.'

Well, we did not look like arriving at
Yarrawonga
that evening, and had visions of camping all night
in the Bush. We held a council of war, and
decided to unharness one of our five horses and
let the coachman ride back to Berrigan for assist-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 229

ance, and in the meantime lunch by the roadside.

I occupied my time after lunch in making a
hurried sketch of our breakdown. In a little
over two hours our driver returned with another
man and a sulkey '
the baggage was repacked
;
'

on the coach, the company rode in the 'sulkey,'

and we resumed our journey. The drive was
full of discomfort, it was very hot, and the southerly
'
bustle drove the sand and dust into our eyes,
'

until we were nearly blind the road was rutty,

;

and every now and then we were obliged to

drive through flocks of thousands of sheep. The
dust then became terrible, and after other trifling

adventures, among which we lost our way for an

hour in the scrub, we crossed the Murray River
and arrived at our destination at 7 p.m. A good
shower bath and a hearty tea at the Victoria Hotel,
and we were soon comfortable, and laughing at
our late experiences. Business was fairly good,
but it cannot be denied that the people generally
were very poor, and had little money to spare for
amusements. I made an excursion one morning
and followed the Murray River about six miles
into the Bush, and came across an old shanty made
of tree logs, rags, and bits of sacking roofed with
bark and flattened with kerosene oil tins. Outside
it looked like a heap of rubbish, but it was tolerably

clean and comfortable within. Inside the front

part of this improvised house was a sturdy white-
bearded old man who was reading. My curiosity
prompted me to speak to him, and in course of
conversation I learned that he had made a lot of
230 A MAGICIAJST IN MANY LANDS
money by selling soap of his own manufacture to
the '
Squatters.' He told me he had spent it freely
among his friends who had now forsaken him, and
being too old to carry the swag and stoneybroke,
'
'

had built himself this little shanty in which he had

lived three years, and would probably there end
his days. Over a small fire, outside the shanty, a
'
billy ' swung, in which he commenced to cook his
dinner, which consisted of three eggs. He told
me a baker drove round his way, once a week, and "

left him two or three loaves which he paid for with

the few pence he gained by collecting old bottles,
or in exchange for a fish he occasionally caught in
the asked him if he was a native of
river. I

Australia, and he replied that he had come from

England that his home had been near the
;

Elephant and Castle, London, and that his name

was John Fuller. By a curious coincidence I was
due to call upon a Mr John Fuller, the Mayor of
Napa City, California, and who has since become
my uncle by marriage. The first Mr Fuller
seemed very happy and contented. He accepted
from me a box of navy cut tobacco and I bade him
adieu.
I believe there are many men in Australia, with
a similar history to heard a friend of mine
this. I

who when in the Bush, came across an old gentleman

of about seventy years of age, who was at work
'
clearing with a view of commencing sheep
'

farming. Over the door of the log hut, a small

board was nailed, upon which was painted the
inscription, Ici on parle Francais.'
'
A Frenchman
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 231

passing one day addressed the old gentleman in

French but failed to get a reply. The Frenchman
explained that he addressed him so, as the board
over the door of the shanty signified Here we '

speak French.' '

Is that what it means,' replied the
settler. Why, do you know, that a bleary-eyed old
'

bounder came along this way last week, with a

wart on his nose, and sold me that board and said
it was Latin for " God bless our 'appy 'ome." '
After
doing a few more towns in the back blocks I was '
'

indeed pleased to get once more into comparative

civilisation,and in Sydney I played a successful
season of five weeks at the Palace, a very beautiful
theatre, built with the unclaimed prize-money of
Tattersall's Melbourne Cup Sweeps. Sydney is
a fine city with an old-world look about it, and
not at all like the more regularly laid out city of
Melbourne. Its situation is unsurpassed by any
city in the world, the peninsula upon which it

stands is nearly 13 miles in length, the city area

about 2,700 acres, with a population of 500,000
spread over an area of 91,000 acres of city suburbs.
No front of the city is more than i;^ miles from the
sea, the average distance being three-quarters of
a mile. The principal street is George Street, two
miles in length. It is flanked on either side with
fine shops and handsome commercial buildings.
The post office. Town Hall, Cathedral and chief
railway station are all in George Street. Pitt
Street is the next in importance, the Opera
House, the Palace and two or three minor theatres
being situated there. Sydney can boast some fine
 232 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
hotels, the chief being, the Australia and the
Metropole, and also possesses a fine electric tram-
way system. Port Jackson with its magnificent
lake-like expanse of water is one of the natural
beauties of the world. A whole volume might be
written in describing this beautiful harbour, but I

must content myself with a passing tribute. I

made many dear friends in Sydney, and had the

good fortune to meet some of the most charming
people possible, but in chronicling my experiences
I cannot refrain from condemning in the strongest
possible terms that class of community known as
the Sydney 'push' (loafer or thief). He is dirty,
loafing, impertinent, tough, mean and contemptible
to a degree, and with an exalted idea of his own
importance. He thinks Australia the land of the
free,and that no one has any right to interfere
with his behaviour. A walk up Pitt Street will
convince anyone of the truth of this statement,
hundreds of these disreputable loafers will be found
lounging about and standing on the curb smoking
and spitting the whole day long, till the street
looks filthy with their expectoration. Then they
hang about all day, ever ready to do a '
push
(robbery). A lady hardly dare walk up some part
of the street, for fear of these pests of society.
The '
pushes ' also intimidate the theatres and
places of amusement, keeping people from patron-
ising them, until themanagers are glad enough to
purchase an immunity from their terrorism by giving
them free passes to secure their good conduct and
behaviour. I know of a case of 251 persons beino-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 233

in the dress circle of a theatre, 200 of whom

were dead-heads. The same sort of thing goes
on in the country, thousands of sundowners loaf'
'

about from place to place, and unless they receive

food and shelter from the farmers or squatters,
there is sure to be a fire on their property, a rick
or two burnt down ; no one knowing who has
caused the conflagration. In the Sydney tram-
cars notices are posted that anyone expectorating
in the cars will be fined ^'1,000 and imprisoned
for two years. My Hindoo 'Jairham' says,
'
Sydney big place, plenty tief man here.' The
Victorian Colony is most exacting in the collection
of duty on everything imported, the officials are
brusque, and everybody seems to be on the make.
Minor brands of champagne cost ^i a bottle,
whisky nine shillings, half-a-crown is charged for
a search at a register office, tram ride 3d., reduced
to three halfpence if a shilling's worth of tickets are
taken beforehand.I met a musical friend from
England who had a pencil-case sent him as a to
present. The postal authorities made him open
the package in their presence, and charged him
twenty seven shillings and sixpence duty on it. I
was charged 4.6. per pound duty on all the printing
matter I carried for my performances. I had to
enter into a bond of ^100 that I would take my
conjuring-table out of the colony within a stipulated
time, and a demand was made upon me to pay
income tax on ;^200 for two weeks, the assessment
being made one day after my opening night. This
was sharp practice with a vengeance. To change a
234 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
;^io English note at the post office cost 5 per cent.
Trades are controlled by trades unions, and a man
must not work at his trade more than a stated
number of hours a day. Thus a premium is placed
upon idleness. One cannot get barbered after '
'

2 o'clock on Wednesdays, or 6 o'clock on other

days. A barber discovered working after these

hours, but a few minutes, is heavily fined by his
society. I sent my servant with a pair of practically
new boots, to have a stitch put in the welt. Jairham
was thrown out of the shop and the boots after him,
and told to tell his master to buy a new pair. All
these things hamper trade, the protection duties
also spoil trade, the Factory Act spoils business, and
the payment of members of Parliament is to my
mind a great mistake as it leads to a certain
amount of jobbery. The people are poor, but the
country has many resources.
It was my good fortune to make the friendship of
Mr Charles Barnett on the day of my arrival in
Sydney, and I must express my deepest gratitude,
for his great kindness, hospitality and true friendli-
ness towards me during my stay in that city. We
became the best of pals, and I look back with the
greatest pleasure and satisfaction to the truly
happy times we spent together. How thoughtfully
he arranged little trips and surprises for me, in and
about the harbour, Manly and Parramatta, and a
pleasant trip to Berry and Coolangatta, and how
unselfishlyhe interested himself to make me happy.
A better friend I have never met and I am looking
forward to having an opportunity to repay him
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 235

however inadequately, when he comes to this Old

Country. The last week of my stay in Australia
was passed almost entirely in Barnett's company,
and I think was the most enjoyable time I had
during the whole of my trip. Unfortunately this
happiness could not and the day came when
last,

we had to part. My servant Jairham left by a

P. and O. boat to Bombay, and I embarked on
board the S.S. Sierra, and as we steamed down
the beautiful harbour, the last person I saw was
Barnett, waving his hand to me and wishing me, as
I know he did, God speed to my native land.
 CHAPTER XXX
Auckland, New Zealand, was the next port at
which we were to call. We passed through the
Sydney heads Into the open sea, and gradually
the entrance to the harbour was merged in the
coast-line, and then I appreciated how easily it

escaped the notice of Captain Cook, as he passed

down the coast and landed at Botany Bay. Directly
we were clear of the coast, terribly rough weather
set in, but being a fairly good sailor, personally I

was not affected, although it quieted the passengers

considerably and caused many absentees at meal-
times. Enormous seas swept over the deck, one
huge wave rising 1 5 feet above the captain's bridge,
and carrying away an immense boom, which tore a
large hole in the deck, through which over 100
tons of water poured into the engine room, causing
the firemen to beat a hasty retreat.
We arrived at Auckland on 9th November,
where in honour of the birthday of His Majesty
King Edward VH, a general holiday was being
observed, and the troops and cadets inspected and
reviewed by the late Sir Hector Macdonald. Whilst
looking over the town, I met several old friends
from England, who I had no idea were in New
Zealand. We celebrated the meeting by a little
dinner on board our vessel.
236
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 237

Four days later we reached the Island of Tutuila,

one of the Samoan group in the South Pacific.
We arrived in the early morning, and I was on
deck betimes to get a first glimpse of the approach.
The sea was quite smooth with low coral reefs,
which surrounded and enclosed small lagoons.
Through the openings in the reefs our ship was
carefully steered until we arrived at the entrance
of the charming harbour of Pago Pago.
Then the whole beauty of the place lay revealed ;

from the very edge of the sea, girt with golden

sands, rich vegetation and luxuriant verdure,
stretched far away to the summit of the highest
hill. Palms, bread-fruit trees, creepers and climbing
plants, bananas and cocoa-nuts were growing
together in marvellous profusion. The harbour
resembles a large lake, which, except at its narrow
entrance, surrounded by high and thickly wooded
is

hills. Close to the banks of this immense lagoon,

many under the
well-built native houses lie buried
waves of delicious shade, cast by the spreading
leaves of the palm and cypress trees.
A and
tiny white jetty runs out from the shore,
serves as a landing place for the few Europeans
and officials who reside in the buildings and
Government offices. Pago Pago being one of the
coaling stations of the United States, we were
not surprised to find an American gun-boat lying
at anchor in the middle of the harbour. Our vessel
was soon surrounded by small boats and catamarans,
and it was a matter of surprise to many of us to see
the natives swimming towards us, holding with one
238 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
hand out of the water, baskets containing curios,
fruit and other commodities. They are a fine built
but not at all an industrious race, quick and intelli-
gent, but without stability or determination. We
passed some hours on the island, and made pur-
chases from the natives, whose women and children
especially hailed us with great delight.
One of our lady passengers was affectionately
escorted by two dusky beauties, each holding one
of her arms, and two or three children tenderly
clinging to portions x)f her dress. So they
promenaded the shore followed by several other
women and children each vieing with the other
for the honour of touching or holding any part
of the white lady's dress.
We crossed the 'line' on 15th November, and
Neptune came on board, and according to ancient
custom, claimed as his victims all who were
crossing the equator for the firstHe and
time.
his wife were seated upon thrones on the forward
deck and the ceremony duly proceeded. Great
was the amusement as Neptune's constable searched
the ship for victims, and brought them struggling
before His Majesty, where they were duly lathered
with a white wash-brush, and shaved with a poop
iron. Any attempt at speaking or shouting was
promptly stopped by ramming the brush into the
neophythe's mouth, or by smearing his face with
a black greasy substance resembling tar. Then
followed the inevitable sail-cloth with bilge-
filled

water, into which he was unceremoniously thrown.

The proceedings lasted for about two hours, there
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 239

being twenty victims, the fun being particularly

enjoyed by those v/ho were exempt from the
ceremony.
had been looking forward with great eagerness
I

to Honolulu, which we reached on 19th

seeing
November. I had an impression that Honolulu
was similar to other Pacific islands, and inhabited
by a half civilised race. My surprise therefore
was great when we entered a small but s;ife
harbour, showing every sign of modern civilisation.
A fine city with splendid streets lighted by electricity,
an efficient system of street tramways, good shops
and large substantial buildings of brick and stone,
Government offices, markets, two theatres and a
large post office were amongst its wonders. There
were also fifteen churches which is said to be more
;

to the square inch than in London or New York,

several fine hotels, and lastly a palace.
Everything was up-to-date, even the finest
telephone house to house systems I have ever
seen. In fact the only want from which Honolulu
suffers is telegraphic communication with the outer
world, which no doubt will soon be remedied. The
climate is mild and uniform, and the city has all
the characteristics of a rapidly developing American
city. We left Honolulu late in the evening, the
Beach Hotel signalling us 'bon voyage by alter- '

nately lighting and extinguishing all the electric

lighting plant, with which their grounds and gardens

are illuminated. At first the weather was very
unsettled, the sea rough, and the heat terrific,

but every day it became cooler and smoother

240 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
until we were enabled to indulge in -delightful
perambulations of the deck. There we amused
ourselves by timing the flights of the flying fish,

or by watching the which skim

enormous gulls
with motionless wings, with or against the wind
with equal facility.

On moonlight nights, quite nice little concert

parties assembled in retired parts of the decks,
and charming impromptu duets, glees and solos
were performed. I gave a conjuring performance
in the saloon one evening, and on others lectures
and concerts were given, so that the time passed
merrily enough until the 25th of November at 2 p.m.
when we were stopped by a fog just outside the
'
Golden Gate San Francisco. After a while the
'

fog lifted and passing through the strait we landed

on the American Continent at 6 p.m.
 CHAPTER XXXI
The San Francisco and the San Pablo Bays form
an inland sea, which is entered by passing through
a narrow strait five miles long and one mile wide and
known as the 'Golden Gate.' San Francisco, the
largest commercial city in California, is six miles
wide and about twelve miles long, with a population
of 400,000. It is situated on the Golden Gate end

of the Peninsula formed by the San Francisco Bay

on one side, and the Pacific Ocean on the other.
The greater part of the city is laid out in rectangular
form. The Market Street, is about
principal artery,

2,^ miles long, it is a grand thoroughfare with

fine commercial buildings and well appointed shops.
The Palace Hotel just off Market Street, is the
principal hotel, a cost of 3J millions of
built at
dollars, and accommodating twelve to fourteen
hundred guests. San Francisco is a rare place
for amusement, being well provided in the way
of theatres, variety halls, and dime shows. The
greatest outdoor attraction is the beautiful and
splendidly situated Golden Gate Park, having an
area of 1,050 acres, with the Pacific Ocean as its
western boundary.
To a person who has, even for a short period,
resided anywhere in the Celestial Empire, the
242 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Chinatown of San Francisco becomes a very
tame affair. Certainly thousands of Chinese are
huddled together in a comparatively small area,
and a few may be seen in shops, and about the
streets, but otherwise it differs little from any of the
other poor localities of the city. There was little
indeed which suggested that it was the haunt of
the Chinaman. Theatres, joss houses, opium dens,
gambling hells and other places usually associated
with the Chinaman and his habits, certainly exist
but it is almost impossible for a casual visitor to
discover them. Their theatre is in one of the
principal streets and consequently can be easily
found but the principal joss house is securely
;

stowed away in a private house at the top of two

flights of stairs..
The gambling and opium dens are mostly buried
in underground regions of dirt and squalor, and it
would indeed tax the temerity of most persons
to venture to explore their haunts, except under
the direction of an experienced guide. One of
them conducted me to an opium den,' of which
'

there are many, in underground Chinatown. We

passed through a dark forbidding looking alley
which ran from one of the streets, and suddenly
dived into the doorway of a dilapidated house,
thence down a flight of about twenty steps leading
to a long, badly lighted passage way, flanked on
either side by small doors, which gave the place the
appearance of the corridor of a prison. Opening
one of these doors, we found ourselves in a very
dimly lighted room. On first entering, the objects
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 243

in the room were hardly distinguishable and a most

offensive and sickening odour pervaded the place.
After a while we could discern several emaciated
looking wretches huddled on little bunk-like shelves ;

some were asleep and two or three were filling and

smoking pipes of opium. The preparation of the
pipe takes between five and ten minutes, but the
actualsmoking only about thirty seconds. The
method of preparing the pipe J was particularly
curious to observe. A large drop of opium, which
is of a treacly consistency, is taken on the end of
a wire dipper, and by twirling the dipper round, is
prevented from falling until it has been roasted
over a small spirit lamp which the smoker keeps
within reach.
As the opium roasts, the dipper is kept twisting,
and every now and then the drop is rolled upon
the flat surface of a tray in which the lamp stands.
Then it is again held over the lamp until sufficiently
cooked to the smoker's liking. The dipper is then
inserted into the small orifice of the pipe, and by a
dexterous twist, the opium comes off and adheres
to the pipe-bowl. Having thus prepared his pipe,
or had it prepared for him, as is sometimes the
case, the smoker lies comfortably down, takes the
stem of the pipe in his mouth, and again holds it

over the lamp, until the opium frizzles and

spirit

burns. The fumes are then inhaled and exhaled

through the nose and mouth. The practice when
carried to excess is most injurious, all inclination to
work or exertion is lost, desire for food disappears
and the smoker gradually becomes emaciated,
244 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
wasting away until he develops into a living
skeleton. On the other hand I am told that a
moderate use of the drug no more injurious
is

than the habit of smoking tobacco, and providing

that the smoker has plenty of work and exercise, it
acts upon him only as a stimulant and enables him
to undergo great bodily exertion.
Many of these dens are intentionally kept for
'
'

show purposes, in this dismal and filthy condition.

The owners are perfectly aware that visitors expect
to see something horrible, so that the more they
can accentuate the loathsome and odious appearance
of the places, the more the visitors are impressed.
The guides are and evidently 'stand
'personse gratce'
in,' with the keepers of the 'dens,' and share the

plunder, extracted by way of tips, from sympathetic

globe trotters.
During my stay in China
had the opportunity
I

of inspecting several of the native theatres, and

found the audiences usually seated in rows corres-
ponding with the stalls of a London theatre, with
this difference, that small tables were alternately
placed between the chairs. Behind these and on
the same level, was an enclosed part corresponding
to the pit of an English theatre. The women
occupied open boxes, ranged around the outer edge
of the auditorium, on the ground floor, an arrange-
ment which prevented overcrowding, and enabled the
audience to dress well and take their ease. The
auditorium of the Chinese theatre at San Francisco
was nothing but an immense pit with a gallery
sloping over it at a steep angle, both being
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 245

packed almost to suffocation with sweltering

humanity.
When I arrived it was impossible to gain an
entrance by the front doors, the crowd being so
great, but my guide took me to a back slum, where
we passed through some extremely dirty alleys
leading to apartments occupied by ladies whose
moral excellence was of the shallowest nature.
After running this gauntlet we passed through the
door of a dilapidated building along some tumble
down, filthy passages, and arrived at the back of
the stage, which consisted of merely a platform
about six feet from the floor the back and sides
;

of which were thronged with people. We were

escorted across the platform without any regard to
the actors, who were already performing, and
provided with seats within a few feet of the players.
At the back of the platform was what they were
pleased to call an orchestra, which kept up an
objectionable din by clashing cymbals, gongs, drums
and shrieking pipes, their chief object appearing
to drown the voices of the performers on the
stage.
There was no scenery to assist the story of their
plays as in the modern theatres of Europe, but the
actor occasionally stopped short to tell the audience
where he had arrived, or a board was conspicuously
placed on the stage to indicate the scene the
members of the audience were to imagine before
them. I was not particularly interested in the play,

as I heard it had been running for six weeks, and

it would take three weeks more to work out the
246 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
development of the plot! As in the Greek and
Roman theatres the female parts were played
by men or boys, who command unusually high
salaries for their services. The atmosphere of the
place was and
enduring the repulsive
stifling, after
odour of the seething mass, for nearly a quarter of
an hour, I was truly glad to beat a retreat and once
more inhale the comparatively fresh air of the street.
I San Francisco by the Southern Pacific
left

Railway, touching Sacramento, Salt Lake City,

Kansas City and Denver en route, arriving
eventually at Chicago. For sake of completeness,
it is indispensable that I should give an itinerary
of the cities and towns visited by me in America
and Canada, to each of which, however, I shall
give but a passing comment. I made my head-
quarters either in New York, or in Chicago, from
which centres most of my travelling in the States
originated. My visits were chiefly in company of
a professional party, being for the greater part of
the time fulfilling professional engagements. To
save repetition hereafter, I may mention that I

performed in all the cities mentioned, and with

few exceptions with great success and prosperous
issue. Starting from Chicago I went direct to
St Louis, and then on in the following order
Cincinnati, O. Lexington, O.
; Columbus, O. ;
;

Indianapolis, Ind. Milwaukee,

; Cleveland, O. ;

Wis. St Paul, Min. Minneapolis, Min. Toledo,

; ; ;

O. Louisville, Ky. Nashville, Tenn. Memphis,

; ; ;

Tenn. New Orleans, La.: Washington, D.C.

;
;

Baltimore, Md. Richmond, Va. Hartford, Conn.

; ;
;
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 247

Worcester, Mass. New Haven, Conn. Springfield,

; ;

Mass. Burlington, Vt.

; Montreal Toronto ; ; ;

Quebec Ottawa; Kingston Bridgeport, Conn.

; ;

From New York City I went to Boston, Mass. ;

Philadelphia, Pa., and in the States of New Jersey

and New York: Poughkeepsie, N.J.; Saratoga,
N.J. ; Newark, N.J. Brooklyn, N.Y. Troy,; ;

N.Y. Albany, N.Y. Schenectady, N.Y. Utica,

; ; ;

N.Y. Ithjca, N.Y.

; Rochester, N.Y. Trenton,
; ;

N.J. ; OraiTge, N.J. and Ogdensburg,; N.Y.

New York City being the principal centre of
mercantile and financial operations of the United
States, and being the leading city of the Continent,
must claim my first attention. New York proper,
as distinguished from Greater New York, which
absorbs Brooklyn and Jersey City, lies mainly on
Manhattan Island, situated at the upper end of
New York Bay. With the Hudson and East
rivers respectively on the west and east, a peninsula
about sixteen miles in length is formed, but the
Harlem River and Spuyton Duyril Creek, small
New York
tide ways, separate the greater part of
from the mainland.
The city is laid out on a rectangular plan
Broadway, the main thoroughfare, and once the
most fashionable, runs practically through the whole
length of the city. It belies its name somewhat at
some being too narrow for the large
points, it

amount of trafific. Streets designated by numbers

run at right angles to this main artery, and are
separated at equal intervals, twenty to a mile, and
popularly known as '
blocks.'
248 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
A stranger's first experience of New York is

one of great be\yilderment, he becomes dazed with

its noise and bustle. The tram cars appear to
travel with the speed of ordinary railway trains,
and as they dash past, the clanging of the warning
bells helps to swell the hubbub of the streets. At
places where the elevated railroad crosses, or runs
along the avenues overhead, it is almost impossible
to hear oneself speak, the din is so terrible.
With the Broadway and Fifth
exception of
Avenue, the roads of New York are very bad,
but as the street railway and tramcars are the
principal modes of transit, the condition of the
roadways is of less importance than would be
the case in cities having more carriage traffic.

Fifth Avenue, with its immediate vicinity, is now

the most fashionable quarter, and in this locality are
many costly houses, but without much architectural
pretension. At the north end the Park Central
about 2^ miles a mile wide, and
long, half
containing 843 acres is situated. The promenades
in the park are exceedingly picturesque, and the
drives on a fine spring afternoon, present a scene
of great brilliancy. A splendid zoological collection
may be seen here free to the public, and is a source
of great amusement and diversion for those who
frequent the park. The Bowery situated in the
south part of the city is the Whitechapel of New
York, and quite adjacent is China Town, having
much same appearance as the
the locality bearing
the same name in San Francisco.
On the occasion of the visit of Li Hung Chang,
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 249

the place was 'en fete,' the Chinese holding a

carnival. The houses were decorated with tinsel,
lanterns and flags. Fireworks were let off during
the day, and all through the night, and on passing
through the quarter the following day the streets
were found to be strewn to the depths of three
inches with the cases of exploded crackers and
other fireworks. There are plenty of fine theatres
and variety halls in New York, and the dime
museums and continuous shows are extensively
patronised. The fare presented at the dime
museums is often of a curious nature, peams,
cripples, persons in trances, spiritualistic seances,
quaint dances and curios from all parts of the
world, being the chief attractions ; at the entrance
of one of these museums was an iron barred cage,
containing a woman and stated to a
manacled,
credulous crowd to be mad. She grinned and
gibbered at the people assembled round the door-
way, much to their amusement. At another
museum eight divorced ladies, waiting for new
husbands, were on view ! New York is fortunate
in its situation, being within easy reach of many
popular seaside resorts.
Coney Island, about 10 miles from Brooklyn, is

connected by railways, and by several lines of

steamboats, which run excursions at exceedingly
cheap rates, to the various resorts. The favourite
trips Manhattan Beach, Brighton Beach,
are to
Sheepshead Bay and West Brighton, whilst many
steamboats run across to Staten Island. The first

two places have immense hotel and bathing

250 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
accommodation but West Brighton in the season
;

is the most popular and densely crowded, shows of

every kind, dancing booths, roundabouts, swings,

circuses, and all the fun of the fair, together with
promiscuous bathing, going on all day long, forming
a scene almost beyond description.
On entering New York Upper Bay, Bartholdi's
Statue of Liberty stands out prominently on Bedlois
Island. A powerful electric light is displayed in
the torch held by the figure, which illuminates the
bay, and as the Americans say enlightens the
world. It is distinguishable for 30 miles, and as

a beacon is most serviceable to mariners entering

the bay at night. The wonderful dimensions of
this marvellous piece of work can only be realised
upon close inspection. Some idea of its size may
be gauged by the fact, that sixteen of our party
stood in the head of the figure at one time, whilst
a dozen easily stood inside the upper part of the
torch. Persons landing on Bedlois Island will
probably quickly discover that the place is alive
with locusts or grasshoppers of large proportions.
A sailor once declared to me that a swarm of
locusts settled on and divested it of every
his ship
shred of sails H is story was corroborated by
!

another mariner, who vowed that he saw the same

swarm, shortly afterwards pass over his ship, and
that every locust was then wearing a canvas
jacket
The pleasure of my
New York was greatly
stay in
enhanced by the good friends whom met at the I

Lotus, Lamb's, and Players' Clubs, and from whom

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 251

I received the greatest kindness. The Corinthian

Yacht Club Headquarters is on Hamilton Island

in Long Whilst on a visit to New

Island Sound.
Rochdale, one of my Lotus friends accepted on
'
'

my behalf an invitation to a clam bake given by

'
'

this yacht club to their friends. What a 'clam

bake is, very few persons outside America know,
'

and was certainly a new experience for me. My

it

friend and I arrived at the island at 8 o'clock in

the morning, and found a pit about 5 feet in
diameter dug near the sea, and filled with large
stones, over which a huge fire was burning. When
this had burned itself out, the ashes were raked
flat and a quantity of wet sea-weed spread over

them. Upon this foundation, a couple of dozen

chickens, trussed, and each wrapped in muslin,
were laid in circular rows, between which a dozen
lobsters, two bushels of sweet potatoes in their
'jackets,' and two or three bushels of clams were
packed. Clams are bivalve shell-fish in appear-
ance like 'cockles,' but somewhat larger. Long
neck clams have a kind of tube about two inches
long attached to their shells these were used on
;

this occasion. Another layer of sea-weed was

spread over the provender, and the whole covered
with a sail-cloth, pegged tightly down that it might
not be disturbed by the wind, and there left to
steam for four hours.
The guests numbering about a hundred ladies
and gentlemen arrived in small boats and steam
launches, and after the food had been declared by
experts to be properly cooked, stood at rough tressel
252 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
tables, nearly breast high, and partook of the meal
prepared in this primitive manner. The Atlantic
breezes created a splendid appetite, and I found the
repast most enjoyable. We passed the remainder
of the day in rowing and sailing in the Sound, and
in the evening were hospitably entertained at
all

the club-house where a concert was given, attended

by more guests who came across to the Island.
The bright moon shimmering in the calm water of
the little bay, and the small boats illuminated by
Japanese and other lanterns, sailing to and fro
across the Sound, made up a scene of fairy-like
beauty.
 CHAPTER XXXII
A SHORT journey of two and a quarter hours, and
we arrived at Philadelphia, the chief town of
Pennsylvania. has an area of 129 square miles,
It

which is greater than that of any other place in the

United States. The city is a perfect net-work of
electric tramlines, the cars being worked by the
overhead trolley system, which spoils the appear-
ance of the city, the poles and wire being most
unsightly. Market Street is a fine broad thorough-
fare, and it is here that the chief wholesale business

of the city is conducted. Chestnut Street is the

most fashionable, and is lined with a handsome
bank and insurance buildings, together with most
beautiful shops, one of which is Wannamaker's
Store, a very extensive and world - renowned
establishment. The City Hall is a magnificient
building covering four and a half acres, with a
tower reaching a height of 537 feet, the highest
building of its kind in the world.
The main streets of Philadelphia are better paved
than those of New
York, and present a very
animated appearance during the day time, being
invariably crowded with pedestrian traffic. On
visiting the was much interested in the
mint I

process of preparing the metal discs, and the

254 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
methods of milling and stamping them into coins.
By the courtesy of the officials I was permitted to
stamp one of the silver discs myself, but although
it was only a dollar, I could not persuade the
authorities to allow me to retain it, even by offering
five times its face value. However, to compensate
for my disappointment I was presented with several
coins and tokens as souvenirs of my visit. There
is plenty to see and amuse one in Philadelphia, and

many charming suburbs provide little jaunts and

excursions to such as are weary of city life. A
trip to Atlantic City is one of the best of these.
It is a large straggling pleasure resort, a kind of
Brighton to Philadelphia, and has a population of
40,000 inhabitants. A wooden esplanade upon
tressels skirts the sea-front, and extends to a
distance of four miles. This is known as the New
Broad Walk, and the side farthest from and facing
the sea is lined with shops, shows, refreshment,
dancing, skating and music saloons, baths,
theatres, water ^shutes, switchbacks, merry-go-
rounds, museums, skittle - alleys, race - course,
and every conceivable form of amusement. There
is and the
also a very fine Japanese tea garden,
splendid sands provide excellent accommodation for
the tens of thousands who daily indulge in the
luxury and amusement of sea bathing.
I shall not forget Atlantic City, for was it not
here that I learned to ride a bicycle ? I was
practising on the firm sand of the sea-shore, riding
in a circle turning always to the left. After a while
I felt quite at home on my Columbia and
'
' suffic-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 255

iently confident to divert my efforts and try to ride

the reverse way of the circle, turning now always
to the right. I was going fairly fast, and gradually
extending the circumference of my track, arrived
on the formed by the wash of
crest of the plateau
the sea, when a boy whom I had not previously
seen jumped up right in front of me. In trying to
avoid him, I lost the pedals, and the 'bike,' seemed
to suddenly fly away from me, dashing from the
incline into the Atlantic Ocean. I threw myself
backward from the saddle into the sea, when I
found myself up to my neck. Fortunately I was
able to grab the bicycle by the hind wheel, and
dragged it out of the water to the intense amuse-
ment of a large crowd collected on the broad
walk.
I amnot likely to forget Atlantic City After !

a successful season in Philadelphia I went to

Boston, Mass., via New York City. My
journey was somewhat eventful. I had booked a

passage on the Priscilla one of those gorgeous

;

floating palaces of the Fall-river line of steamboats

which run between New York City and Boston.
The magnificent equipment of these palatial boats
surpasses anything I could have imagined in con-
nection with a ship. The Priscilla is 441 feet
long and 93 feet in breadth, and has a tonnage of
5292 tons. The decoration and upholstering of this
splendid steamer, is lavish in the extreme. White
and gold predominate in the quarter deck used as
a smoking, room. The purser's office on the
quarter deck, the stairways and vestibules are
256 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
embellished with panels of sumptuous beauty in the
modern Roman style. The ceilings are in square
panels of white and gold, adorned with exquisite
cameo carving, and each square a
in the centre of
adds to its beauty. The
cluster of electric lights
grand and gallery saloons, dining-rooms and main
stairway, are particularly rich in their furnishing,
the whole pertaining to the palace of an emperor
rather than for the accommodation of steamship
passengers. We embarked at the New York City
Press, i8 & 19 North River, and had just started
on our journey when we learned that the other
boats of the Fall-river line had been stopped in
consequence of a warning that a cyclone was
approaching. The information proved correct, and
a fearful storm soon broke around us. The sea
ran high and dashed over the decks and open
parts of the boat, the wind blew a hurricane
and the rain poured down in torrents. I never
experienced such a fearful night either on sea or
land. To make matters worse about 1 o'clock in
the morning an alarm of was given.
fire To say
that I got out of my bunk would be untrue ; I flew
out, and to my horror found that the cable next to
my own was having been accidentally
in flames,
set on fire by the occupant. A small engine and
hose was quickly, on the spot and commenced
working on the blazing cabin, the firemen
fortunately succeeding in extinguishing the fire,

which was rapidly spreading and in a very short

time would have become unmanageable.
Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, is the most
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 257

English of American cities, and the second city

in wealth and commerce in the United States.
Some exiles from England came over to Charles-
town in 1630, and in conjunction with the Rev.
William Blaxton, who had previously settled there,
in 1623 founded what is now the city of Boston.
The original Puritanical character of the people,
their tone and customs of life, have entirely dis-
appeared in its growth and development, and it is
now substantially cosmopolitan. The city reminded
me of some parts of London, especially when the
streets were narrow, and when the electric tramcars,
which form the principal means of transit go through
these narrow thoroughfares, they have barely suffi-
cient space to pass and quite fill the street.
Charlestown is one mile from Boston, and situated
on the north bank of the Charles river upon the ;

summit of Bunker's Hill a monument is erected

commemorating the defeat of the British. I am
not quite clear about this terrible defeat\ The
British charged the redoubt and lost 1,000 men,
the defenders after losing 400 fled, leaving the
British masters of the field. From the top of the
Obelisk, which is made of brick and stone, and
resembles an enlarged Cleopatra needle, a fine view
is obtained of the harbour. was here that the
It

'Boston Tea Party' defied the 'Tea Act,' and to

prevent the landing of the taxable cargoes, boarded
the English ships, disguised as Mohawk Indians,
and emptied the tea into the sea.

R
 CHAPTER XXXIII
Our next calling was Montreal, and for
place
the first time in six months I saw the Union Jack
floating in the breeze. I stood and raised my
hat to it ! Montreal is the largest city in the
Dominion of Canada, and during the 150 last

years has developed into an important commercial

centre and seat of manufacturing enterprise and
industry. It has a population consisting chiefly
of English and French, numbering about 270,000.
The two nationalities being the chief representatives
of the city, an amount of rivalry has sprung up
between the promoters of the various religious and
benevolent institutions, to which can be traced the
imposing character of many of the principal build-
ings. The Cathedral of St Peter's is a magnificent
structure designed after St Peter's of Rome, and
occupies a conspicuous position at the corner of the
Dominion Square, whilst the Parish Church or
Cathedral of Notre Dame is a great and spacious
edifice with accommodation for 10,000 worshippers.
On the occasion of my visit to the Cathedral the
bodies of three firemen, who had courageously lost
their lives whilst in the execution of their duty,
were lying in state. Mass being celebrated for the
repose of their souls. I should say that quite
258
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 259

10,000 persons were present on that occasion.

The McGill College and University is the most
prominent educational institution in the city, the
University comprising the faculties of arts, applied
sciences, medicine and law, with students numbering
between six and seven hundred. During my pro-
fessional season at the Academy of Music, the
students came en masse to the performance and
it was certainly an evening unparalleled in my
recollection or experience. The theatre had been
given up to their representatives in the early
morning, and about fifty or sixty students worked
during the day, decorating the Auditorium. The
balconies were
draped with University colours,
and an immense banner was hung from the top
gallery, which part had been reserved for their,
reception. From the gallery and the stage, a wire
had been fixed, upon which ran a traveller and
pulley, and as the artist in the opinion of the
galleryites, merited favour, so a present in the
shape of a box of cigars, a walking stick or a
handsome basket of flowers, was sent along the
wire and lowered to the performer on the stage.
They had their own programmes printed, the
ordinary one being interspersed with items of their
own songs and choruses, led by their own conductor,
stationed in the centre of the front row of the gallery.
Half an hour before the time appointed to com-
mence the performance, between seven and eight
hundred students, dressed in quaint carnival dresses,
carrying lighted torches and lanterns, and headed
by a fine band of fifty musicians, marched through
26o A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the principal thoroughfares, discharging fireworks as
they paraded the streets. As the procession arrived
at the corner of each block of buildings, advance
members of the procession ignited large pans of red
and green fires, brilliantly illuminating the densely
crowded streets. The procession arrived at the
theatre, and in an orderly and methodical manner,
took the places reserved for them in the gallery,
the other parts of the house becoming quickly
packed.
The performance commenced and between each
item in the ordinary programme the students sang
their own quaint glees and catches, a pianoforte
they had provided themselves with in the gallery,
being used as an accompaniment whilst their own
conductor beat time with his baton. They were
exceedingly orderly, except when one artist refused
word or two of thanks for the gift he received
to say a
from them, they hooted and compelled him to beat
a hasty retreat, several small empty bottles being
hurled at him. At the conclusion of the performance
the procession was reformed, and the students
marched back to their quarters, stopping en route
at the Windsor Hotel to serenade our company.
By this time there must have been at least five
thousand persons in the procession, and our recep-
tion was of the liveliest character.
Shooting the Lachine Rapids, proved one of the
most exciting incidents, although of brief duration,
I have ever experienced.

Leaving Montreal early one morning with my

dear old friend Harry Brett, we journeyed by
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 261

the Grand Trunk Railway. Lachine is a pretty

little place on the St Lawrence river, about ten

miles above Montreal and opposite the Indian

Reservation, Caughnawaga. There we went on
board a small steamer, and waited three quarters
of an hour before we commenced our perilous
journey down the river. As we neared the rapids
the boat gained impetus, travelling faster and faster
until we came in sight of the awful swirling water,
amid the threatening rocks which here and there
showed themselves above the surface. We could
feel the current sucking us along. With four men
at the helm the little steamer dashed in and out of
the narrow channels between the plateaux or shelves
of rock", which were within touching distance on each
side of us. With the river hissing and boiling like
a cauldron our little boat seemed to fly along.

Here with a bank of rocks directly in front of us,

when it seemed impossible to prevent being dashed
to pieces, the boat would suddenly turn sharply at
right angles, within a foot of the threatening mass.
Then rushing along for about twenty yards, unex-
pectedly turned again into another narrow channel
of churning water, the submerged gorges showing
here and there just beneath the surface. How the
pilot knew the track was a mystery, there seemed
nothing to indicate it, or by which he could be
guided. It was a matter I suppose of constant

practice. He stood like a statue, his eye never

for an instant off the bow of the boat. I don't
think he even winked, until he had brought us
through in safety, and we had left the boiling
262 A MAGICIAJSr IN MANY LANDS
mass of seething angry water behind. I was
pleased to have had the experience, but nothing
would induce my friend Brett or myself to repeat
the journey. Our opinion was unanimous.
I had always promised myself that if ever I was
within a reasonable distance, or a favourable oppor-
tunity occurred, I would not miss seeing the Falls
of Niagara. Therefore, being in Toronto which is

less than three hours' journey from them, I

embraced the opportunity and went alone.
Pictures of the beauty and magnificence of the
Falls have been forthcoming from time to time
from so many able writers of every nationality, that
it would be futile for one to attempt a description

of them, so content myself by simply recording my

impressions on the occasion of my initial visit. At
first I was a trifle disappointed in the general view,
and felt that what
had read of the Falls had been
I

greatly exaggerated. It was not until I had been

standing for a considerable time on the Table Rock,

gazing at the Horseshoe,' that its beauty and
'

grandeur seemed to grow upon me. I became lost

in wonder, was fascinated, and felt for the time

rivetted to the spot. That peculiar roar and deeply
hidden subdued organ-like note, which is heard, only
when the attention is particularly directed to it, was
so full of solemnity that it infused my mind with a
religious awe. I left the Table Rock and went far

down beneath to the Rock of Ages which lies in

'
'

the bed of the chasm. The vast volume of water

falling causes a fine spray, which resembles a
perpetual mist, and when the sun shines a delight-
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 263

ful rainbow effect is caused. Niagara by moon-

light is also very striking, the lunar rainbow giving
the Falls quite a fairy-like appearance.
We were now in that glorious but mysterious
season, known as the '
Indian Summer,' a period
between autumn and winter, when after a spell of
cold weather and a little snow has fallen, the
atmosphere becomes balmy and delightfully warm.
It lasts about three weeks previous to the approach

of the extreme cold. The haziness and the exces-

sive warmth of this peculiar season are attributed to
the heat and smoke of the many prairie fires raging
at this period of the year.
When I arrived at Quebec the Indian summer
had passed, and winter had set in, in reality. The
cold was intense, sleighs and furs were the order of
the day, and I had to provide myself with a pair of
icecreepers, which I ought to explain are a little
device attached to the boots under the instep, with
several small spikes to prevent one slipping on
the frozen pavements. When not in use they fold
back on a small hinge, and lie under the insteps
close up to the heels of the boots. Quebec is the
most picturesque and best fortified town on the
Continent, being known as the Gibraltar of America.
There is an upper and a lower town, the former
being built on an elevated plateau, overlooking the
St Lawrence and the St Charles rivers, whilst the

latter lieson the banks of the St Charles river.

The French quarter of the city which is the
largest is very quaint and interested me greatly. I

was exceedingly comfortable at the Frontenac Hotel,

264 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
near the Dufferin Terrace, a magnificent promenade
140,000 feet long, and 200 feet above the St
Lawrence from which there is a striking and very
beautiful view. But one of the most pleasant days I
ever spent was in a sleigh drive, with some friends,
to the Montmorency Falls. The drive in a well
appointed sleigh with a pair of good horses, through
the clear crisp and frosty air was most exhilarating.
The Falls are picturesquely situated in an enclosure,
and although they have not the extent yet they
exceed Niagara in height by 100 feet. We lunched
near the park and made purchases from the Indians
who offer forskins of every description,
sale,

moccasins, bead ornaments and other

pipes,
articles, manufactured by themselves. I was
greatly pleased with my visit to Quebec, and
sorry when the time arrived for me to take my
departure.
Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion of Canada,
I thought a splendid city of fine buildings. The
people are kind and hospitable, and the good old
Union Jack was still flying. As in Quebec, there
are two distinct towns, the upper and lower, separated
by the Rideau Canal. On Parliament Hill the
Government buildings rank among the finest
specimens of architecture to be found in North
America. With a temperature of 20 below zero, the
River Ottawa was frozen over, trotting matches and
horse races being held on the ice. We crossed the
river in a sleigh to New Edinburgh, where we
visited the pulp mills, and saw the process of
making paper from wood. We also visited
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 265

Chaudiere or Rideau Falls, the match factories

and other places of interest in the neighbourhood ;

and on our return inspected the water- works where ;

the chief engineer called our attention to a large

gong, which gave the alarm in case of fire, and
also automatically set in motion certain machinery
for pumping water into the hydrants, in sufficient
quantity to extinguish a fire of the greatest magni-
tude. We left at 4 o'clock greatly impressed by
these splendid precautions, but at 4-15 an alarm of
fire at the Government Offices was actually given,
and unfortunately the beautiful machinery at the
water-works failed in consequence of the water
in the hydrants having frozen. No water being
forthcoming it was of course impossible to check
the fire, and the Parliamentary buildmgs were
destroyed. The fire lighted up the adjacent build-
ings and the flames glistening in the surrounding
snow and were a sight magnificently grand.
ice,

Irresistibly was reminded of when Eaton Hall

I

with its costly treasures was being burned. The

Duke of Westminster stood gazing sadly upon the
scene, when a country yokel approached him and
said It is not so much of a fire, your Grace
'
No ' '
'

. . answered the Duke, 'but it is the best we

.

can do for you.'

The next day the Government buildings were
still burning, and pickaxes had to be used to dig

out the fire engines and hose from the ice. Even
the firemen who directed the streams of water,
which came late, were frozen to the ground where
they stood, and looked like enormous icicles.
266 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Eventually help came from Montreal, and the fire
was extinguished. Fortunately the records were
saved, but the damage was estimated at a million
and a half dollars.
The amount of snow we passed through on the
way to Kingston was inconceivable, drifts lo to
1 5 feet deep blocked the roads snow ploughs were
;

fixed on the fronts of the locomotives, which force

their way through the banks of snow, throwing it
away on each, side in high graceful curves re-
sembling immense fountains. Huge red hot stoves
were in the cars, and as we dashed through the
dreary looking country, the fine snow beat through
the interstices into the cars, and in this manner
eventually we arrived at Kingston. Still snow,
always snow —there —
seemed fields of it never-
ending. As Brett and I were walking home one
evening to our hotel, suddenly he disappeared as
if by magic. He had slipped into a hole six feet
deep which had become filled up with the drifting
snow, to the level of the surrounding road. I had
great difficulty in extricating him, but eventually
I succeeded, after which by judicious application of
hot Scotch whisky he soon recovered from the
shock. At Prescott we crossed the river St
Lawrence in a penny boat, passing through a
channel which had been cut in the frozen river, and
arrived at Ogdensburgh, a city and port of entry
to the United States.
 CHAPTER XXXIV
Once more we were under the Stars and Stripes,
and Uncle Sam became again our guardian. Ogdens-
burgh is regularly laid out, and known as the Maple
City by reason of the profusion of these trees.
Staying a day at Utica we proceeded to Chicago.
Chicago, familiarly known as the garden or
Queen City, is the second city of commercial
importance in the United States of America. It

stretches along the west shore of Lake Michigan

for thirty miles,and has an area of 190 square
miles and contains 4070 miles of streets and alleys.
Fifty years ago Chicago was a mere trading port
of half a dozen huts, now its commerce is enormous.
My first impression was one of amazement, streets,
sky scraping buildings, beautiful shops, bustle,
crowds of people, all surly looking, street railways
with cars running by threes and fours like trains.
The population, numbering between 1,800,000 and
2,000,000 is cosmopolitan ; every nationality in the
world being represented. In 1871 occurred one of
the most notable incidents in its annals, viz :

the great fire, in which jT) miles of its street

frontages were destroyed. Since then its growth
has been unparalleled. The population which was
at that time 360,000 has increased by 1,500,000.
t6y
268 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Hardly had the ashes time to cool when the inhabi-
tants with marvellous energy set to work to rebuild,
and in the short space of three years handsome stone
and brick buildings replaced the miserable wooden
structures which previously formed the city.
I met many nice people in Chicago, and received

the greatest hospitality, but I was not charmed with

the general appearance of the street public. They
seemed to be morose and looking for trouble.
Perhaps I was influenced in my opinion by the
prevalence of Hold ups in Chicago -at the time.
'
'

Every day one heard of numbers of cases, a person

perhaps would be looking at the goods in the shop
windows a man would come and stand at his side
;

and in an undertone say I'm a desperate man, I've

'

got you covered,' meaning that a small pistol he had

in his pocket was pointed towards him. Keep quiet '

and hand over your satchel (purse) which, in forty-

'

nine cases out of fifty was done, the villain's retreat

in all probability being covered by a couple of
armed confederates close by.
The same kind of thing happened in saloons, two
men would enter, one covering the bar-tender with '
'

a gun, whilst the confederate cleared the tills and

money registers of the cash with which they decamped.
Even in a street car a desperate man has suddenly
made his appearance, called Hands up to every- '
'

body, and compelled them to deliver up their purses,

note satchets and jewellery with which he coolly
made off
Whilst I was in Chicago the police seemed utterly
unable to cope with these desperadoes. The state
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 269

of affairs was so bad that I rarely ventured out at

night alone. My friend Brett struck a bright idea
to get over the difficulty. He carried a large purse,
full of nickels and dimes, ready to hand over
immediately should he ever be 'held up.'
Sandbagging wasalso very prevalent. The ruffians
provided themselves with an innocent looking weapon,
simply a bag about 12 or 16 inches long, shaped
like a sausage, and filled tightly with sand. A crack
across the back of the neck with this little article,
and the victim drops absolutely senseless, the blow
causes no bleeding, and the victim appears simply
to be sleeping naturally. He is then robbed and
left to his fate, probably to be found by a patrol

man.
One of the principal industries of Chicago is hog
and beef-packing. There are several large firms who
carry on this business and an idea of its extent
may be realised by the fact that the union stock
yards occupy an area of 475 acres, 75 .of which
contain 8,500 covered pens for hogs. I visited
Messrs Armour's establishment, where I was per-
mitted to see the whole process. The hogs were
driven from pens in the stock yards, through
narrow alleys, and over winding viaducts, until
they reached the slaughter house. There appeared
a never ending stream of hogs, in single file, which

disappeared through a small door in the wall of an

immense building. Here they filed into a kind

of arena, where tireless men attached a chain with

a slip ring to the hind leg of each, and a ring at
the other end of the chain was slipped on to a peg
270 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
fixed on a solid wheel, which was constantly
revolving, elevating the hogs in the
shrieking
air,where a mechanical contrivance tranferred the
chain to an elevated trolley. The hog then passed
head downwards over a pit, in which stood a man
armed with a terrible looking knife, which as each
hog passed he plunged into its throat. The hog
during a subsequent passage on a trolley was
scalded, scraped by a machine filled with spring
knives through which the carcase passed, disem-
bowelled, decapitated and trimmed, the various
parts being conveyed down shoots in the floor,
to the other departments. The carcase was then
washed and continued its journey along the trolley
to the cooling rooms previous to being prepared
for packing. The first part of the process was
simply horrible to witness, and many a strong man
has had to turn away from the scene. The
slaughterman, covered with a kind of leather apron
upon his right side only, stood knee deep in a tank
of blood. As thehog came swinging towards him,
he steadied it with his left hand and cut its throat
with his right, being drenched with blood as it
gushed from the wound. The smell of the hogs,
the blood, and steam from the scalding tanks
caused a sickening stench, whilst the horrible
unearthly shrieks from the dying hogs, and those
hanging head downwards on the trolley, all added a
scene of never to be forgotten horror. I was told that
every part of the hog was utilised except its squeal.
Leaving Chicago I arrived at St Louis, where,
to use an Americanism, I got comfortably fixed
'
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 271

up' at the 'Planters,' a palatial hotel in the centre

of the city. Whilst staying there, I had the
pleasure of making the friendship of that genial
old actor, favourite alike in England and America.
Joseph Jefferson. He was playing at the Olympic
theatre, Rip Van Winkle,'
'
alternating the perform-
ances with the Cricket on
'
the Hearth,' and Lend '

me five shillings,' in each of which I saw him to

advantage. He came to see my performance at
the Century Theatre, but told me afterwards that
he was too deaf to hear me properly from the box
which he occupied. I offered to give him a private
performance at the hotel, and so passed a very
pleasant afternoon with himself and his family.
He was a charming old gentleman, brimful of
kindness, fun and appreciation. He was most
flattering in respect to my performance, and at its
conclusion presented me with signed photographs
of three pictures he had painted, for he is not only
a great on the stage but a painter of rare
artist

ability. He gave me a very pressing invitation

also
to visit him at his home at Lousiana, which I regret
to say I was never able to accept.
A short time previous to my arrival St Louis
had been visited by a terrible tornado, one of the
most disastrous in the annals of the many catas-
trophies of this nature which occur on the American
continent. The
city presented a wrecked appear-

ance, almost beyond words to describe. The

devastating wind came tearing down the streets,
swaying immense buildings with its powerful blast
demolishing in its progress the Mammoth power-
272 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
house of the Union Depot Electric Railway,
levelling long rows of palatial buildings of stone
and brick, tearing off roofs and rolling up like paper
the tin coverings of the many store houses in the
vicinity. The air was filled with bricks and lumber,
whilst through the sixty-five acres of St Louis, the
hurricane cut a zig-zag course two miles long and
a mile carrying everywhere death and
in breadth,
destruction. Towering elevators filled with grain
and smoke stacks of mighty factories, were scattered
crackling and crumbling to the ground huge trees ;

in the parks and gardens were uprooted and sent

flying through the air like feathers, steamboats in
the river were spun round like tops, the water
rushing through the breaches, until they finally sank
with all on board. Boats and barges were hurled
by the violence out of the water and landed
hundreds of yards up the river banks railway cars ;

and trains in the railway yards were overturned

and wrecked, churches cut in halves as if with a
mighty guillotine, factories and the beautiful
residences gracing the avenues of the parks, were
completely demolished, until the Metropolis re-
presented a scene of and carnage, which
ruin
appalled all Christendom, and brought misery and
mourning to thousands of hearts. The whole of
this terrible destruction and loss of life was
accomplished in the space of twenty minutes.
Some idea may be gathered of the dreadful
fatality, when I add that at the corner of 7 th
Street, twenty-seven persons were killed outright in
one building alone.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 273

I paid a most interesting visit to the celebrated

'Anhenser Busch Brewery,' a business of surprising
magnitude, supplying as it does millions upon
millions of bottles of German beers to the thirsty
population of America. There I was presented
with several souvenirs and statistics of the business ;

and came away marvelling at the enormous number

of thirsty people. During my sojourn of eight
days there were several bad cases of holding up '

in the city. In the Planters' Hotel a case occurred

where a gentleman was suddenly held up by a '
'

ruffian who robbed him of ^8,000 worth of

diamonds. As is usual no arrest was made and
the scoundrel got clean away.
My journey from St Louis to Cincinnati was
far from interesting. Occasionally we pulled up
at a wood pile, as the little villages or townships
are called, and which strike one as being very
primitive. Even the fields appear new, whilst the
houses are made of wood and look like sheds,
arranged on each side of a main street, where
logs laid transversely form the side walks, up the
centre of which series of lopped trees act as
telegraph poles, the roadway itself being overgrown
with grass these, with usually a small church
;

resembling a church out of a box of toys, and

painted blue, green, or red, constitute the town-
ship. The inhabitants invariably turn out to the
side of the track to see the mail pass, and a freight
train often consisting of as many as a hundred
wagons, each the length of a Pullman car may be
seen waiting on the siding or labouring on the
s
274 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
track, the enormous engine giving out a series of
explosions at ten seconds intervals, in its effort to
move the weight of the half a mile of wagons,
slowly along. In lieu of hedges the fields are-

divided off by laying logs across each other to the

height of about four feet, in a succession of v shape

zig-zags, and the gardens or grounds surrounding

the private houses, near the towns, are not fenced
but quite open, even to the side walks.
I found the travelling by rail very comfortable,
except that the heating of the cars is sometimes
excessive. One can procure almost anything to
eat or drink on board,and there are a library and
writing room, smoking lounge, and lavatory accom-
modation on most trains. The parlour cars are
handsomely fitted and upholstered, the attendants
being usually coloured men, whom I found very
obliging.
There is one person on board the train who
demands attention for a moment, I allude to the
'
train boy,' or to bestow upon him his proper title
'the newsagent.' He is ubiquitous, very obliging
and generally ready to render the passengers any
small service which lies in his power. He is not
only what his name implies, but also a hustling '

and enterprising tradesman, whose chief aim is to

induce passengers to make purchases from his
wonderful store. When the word '
all aboard ' has
been given by the conductor, the big bell on the
engine has finished tolling, and the train has fairly
started, the '
newsagent' makes a tour of the
various cars, offering for sale first newspapers and
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 275

journals of the principal cities on the line. He

then disappears for a few moments, and from some
secret recess hidden far away in a baggage-van,
returns with his arms full of monthly English and
American periodicals. He wastes no time in
soliciting the passengers to buy, but gives them
a kind of '
taste,' hurrying along dropping the
books oi;i empty seats or handing them to the
passengers. When he returns, five or ten minutes
later to collect the book, a percentage of the
passengers has become interested in an article or
short story and purchases the copy. Away goes
the newsagent and returns from his cave of plenty
with chocolate and chewing gum, for which he
usually gets a ready sale. He is generally good
tempered and chatty, and often a bit of a comedian ;

he gets into conversation with the passengers,

pointing out to them places of interest on the
journey, at the same time, although not unduly
pushing his wares, keeping his eye on the main
chance business.'
'
From his varied stock he
successfully exhibits, fruit, cigars, candy, '
smelling
salts for tired deck of cards, sir ?
feelings, nice
Certainly ! All only a
winners,quarter yes, '

colonel, good luck Now, colonel, how about a

!

nice love story, this is a clinker with the accent on '

—
the a clinker,' as he produces a series of yellow
'

back novels, for the would-be buyer to choose

from. Next he offers snow glasses to protect '
'

the eyes from the glare, and then gin killers '

which were a mystery to me. I thought they

were 'poker chips,' but discovered they were used
276 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
to sweeten the breath, or to kill the smell, if a
person had been indulging in the luxury of drinking
gin. The train boy is quite a wag, for he finds
it pays to be funny, and the more humorous he
is the more money he makes. I am told that these
train boys pay large sums annually to the railroad
companies for the privilege of thus disposing of
their wares.
The country was a bit monotonous with miles
of Indian corn, growing to the height of fifteen
feet, swamps and flat uninteresting prairie land ;

while here and there numbers of trees stripped of

their bark, lay about on the ground, evidently
blown down and left to rot where they fell. So
we arrived in the State of Ohio, along the east
fork of the White River, over a trestle bridge,
passed log shanties by the wayside, where the
folks were busy burning the fallen trees into
lengths. (Not a bad idea in the absence of saws
or machinery). Through more fields of Indian
corn and about thirty miles of rough country to the
Paris of America, Cincinnati. I took up my abode
at the Burnet House Hotel, and from the first felt

that I should like the city. It is clean and has

plenty of fine shops, stores and imposing buildings,
and a splendid system of street railways, whilst the
suburbs and surrounding scenery are picturesque
and beautiful. It is built on two plateaux, one
sixty feet and the other one hundred and twelve
feet above the level of the Ohio River.
Electric cars run on an elevator or inclined plane
cable railway, from the lower to the higher plateaux.
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 277

It was approaching Christmas, and I was greatly

amused at the novel methods of advertising,

adopted by the large stores and shop-keepers. At
one large store the whole of a window was arranged
as a stage, with scenery and accessories, and the
pantomine of '
Robinson Crusoe was ' performed
with a full caste, and proper complement of supers.
Not only was the story told, but an elaborate
transformation scene and harlequinade completed
the performance. In another window the interior
of a cottage with large ingle-nook and chimney-
piece was represented. This depicted the home
of Santa Claus, the white bearded old saint being
surrounded with toys which he gathered in arms
full and disappeared up the chimney. The crowd
which gazed in at the window, would then hurry
across the road, to witness his reappearance a few
minutes later out of a chimney-pot on the roof of
the establishment, from which exalted position he
scattered small and advertisements among
gifts

them. Most of the millinery and large drapers'

shops had living models in the windows, upon
whom the various goods to be purchased were
displayed.
 CHAPTER XXXV
I MET that splendid magician Kellar in Cincinnati

and had the pleasure at the Walnut Street Theatre

of witnessing his performance, one of the finest
exhibitions .of conjuring I have ever seen. My
own performances were being given at the Opera
House, and although running in opposition to
Kellar, he generously assisted me with the Press,
for which kindness I again tender him my best
thanks.
There is a large coloured population in the city,

and by crossing a dirty little ditch of a river

facetiously called the '
Rhine,' the German quarter,
known as '
Deutsch Land,' is reached. Some time
since the country surrounding Cincinnati suffered con-
siderably from a plague of '
wire- worms,' and some
genius imported a quantity of sparrows into the
city to counteract the ravages made by these pests.
But the sparrows multiplied to such an extent that
they became an intolerable nuisance, and the
remedy was worse than the disease. The telegraph
wires throughout the city swarm with these birds,
and to mitigate this nuisance, the municipality
authorises at stated periods a general battue of the
sparrows. When the birds have congregated on
the wires for the night, hundreds of persons
278
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 279

assemble underneath with guns, and simultaneously

volleys ofduck shot are fired, slaughtering the birds
by thousands. Lark pies and puddings figure upon
all the menus of the cheap restaurants for some
days after these onslaughts have been made
Whilst in this city an amusing instance of
American genius in advertising came under my
notice. A celebrated entrepreneur who was running
a farcical comedy at one of the theatres, and with
whom business was not at all flourishing, to give
it a 'fillip,' one morning desired one of his
principals to make up with wig and grease paint
as for an evening performance, and proceed in a
cab with his properties to a photographer's to have
portraits taken for the purposes of advertisement.
The manager saw him and immediately gave
start
information to the police that a Nihilist was con-
'
'

veying explosives to a certain destination. A

constable was told off to watch for the poor
wretched inoffensive actor, who was duly arrested.
The driver of the cab protested, whereupon the
police arrested him as an accomplice, hundreds of
people assembled, and one of the angry crowd
tore the wig off the man, who was ignominiously
marched through the streets to the police station.
The wily manager meanwhile watched the pro-
ceedings through the glass door of a bank on the
side walk, and in due time arrived breathless at
the police station, where he bailed the prisoners
out, explaining who he was, and threatening all
manner of proceedings against the police. Every
newspaper in the city published columns, reporting
28o A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
the occurrence, and at the same time spoke highly
of the amusing comedy, with the inevitable result
that the theatre was packed with an audience
curious to see the hero of the adventure.
The play was really good, and consequently the
report of its excellence soon spread, and the season
which opened so badly furnished us a great financial
success. There is only one man whom I know
would have had the audacity to carry out such a
ruse. I wonder if my reader can guess his name ?
The week I spent in Cincinnati I thoroughly
enjoyed, and taking leave of the many friends went
on to Lexington, Kentucky, which, except that it
is an important railway junction has nothing much

to recommend it to the traveller. When I arrived

a horse fair was and a large crowd of
in progress,
niggers and doubtful-looking persons of the cow- '

boy type, galloped horses up and down the main

'

street. I could not help noticing a show which

was being well patronised, and which for morbid-
ness would require a lot of beating. Some weeks
previously a nigger, who, guilty of a criminal assault,
had been lynched and burnt to death at the stake.
The show consisted of a cinematograph representa-
tion of the burning shown upon a screen, whilst a
phonograph record of the poor wretch's screams
and ejaculations synchronised with the moving
picture. I soon saw all I wanted to see of
Lexington and left for Indianapolis, stopping one
night en route at Columbus.
Indianapolis is a city of fine proportions, wide
streets, fine stores, and really good buildings, it is
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 2»I

known as '
Railway City,' and is a large commercial
centre.
My next calling place was Cleveland, where in
the Grand Opera House gave a performance
I

before a very fashionable audience, amongst whom

was the American statesman, Mark Hanna, who
came upon the stage and assisted me, acting as
my unconscious confederate. Unfortunately my
stay was limited to one day in this fine city, and
I had only time to drive round the principal
districts, see the beautiful monument erected in
the Lake View Cemetery to the assassinated
President Garfield, and leave by the midnight mail
for Milwaukee, which I reached via Chicago at
2.45 p.m. the next day. Milwaukee is the largest
city in the state ofWisconsin and is situated on
the edge of Lake Michigan. It is sometimes called
'
Cream City,' from the colour of which the 'building
material is made in the vicinity. The following
week I spent in the twin and
cities, St Paul
Minneapolis in the State of Minnesota. There I
made the acquaintance of several persons who were
relatives of intimate friends of mine in England,
and the hospitality they extended to me added
greatly to the pleasure of my sojourn in the Gem
City and the City of Flour. I don't know of any
greater source of enjoyment on a clear, crisp frosty
morning, than that afforded by a long sleigh drive
with a pair of spanking horses. My newly made
friends provided me this invigorating pleasure every
day for the week I was with them one day driving ;

from St Paul far into the country overlooking the

282 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
snow covered valley of the Mississippi, the river
itself being bridged with on another a splendid
ice,

drive to the Lake of the Isles and again to the

charming little Minnehaha Falls on a stream
running into the Mississippi, between Fort
Smelling, and the Falls of St Anthony, immortal-
ised by Longfellow in '
The Song of Hiawatha.'

Where the Falls of Minnehaha,

Flash and gleam among the oak trees,
Laugh and leap into the valley.

And he named her from the river,

From the waterfall he named her,
Minnehaha, Laughing Water.

The Falls are situated in a which lies in

little dell

the centre of a thicket surrounded by larger trees

and one

Sees the Minnehaha,

Gleaming, glancing through its branches.
As one hears the Laughing Water
From behind its screen of branches.

The Falls were partly frozen, long icicles hanging

around them, and the frost on the bushes and on the
surrounding trees produced a lace-like stereoscopic
effect which was exceedingly beautiful. In driving
through a park on the road to the Falls, I was
greatly amused an immense rock, mounted
to see
upon a granite pedestal, upon which was an inscrip-
tion informing the public that '
it was the identical
rock which Moses struck with his staff, to procure
water for the Israelites' ; but of course the Yankee
is nothing if not truthful ! Being Christmas time
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 283

St Paul — I mean the city —was quite en fete, the

shops and stores being decorated. Processions
were formed, and Father Christmas and a band of
musicians upon a huge sleigh drawn by six horses
perambulated the streets, whilst at night a pro-
miscuous discharge of fireworks did not add to the
comfort and safety of pedestrians.
Commercially I think the Twin Cities were '
'

passing through a bad time, for there was quite a

panic among the banks, several of which went up '

following the 'going up' of the Bank of Minnesota.

I spent Christmas day with my new friends, who did
their best to assist me in celebrating the festive
season in a manner as nearly as possible approach-
ing ourown good old English custom. Two days
after, wished them au revoir and proceeded via
I '
'

Chicago to Toledo, of which I thought nothing and

left without a pang.
Five days later I was i 500 miles south at Louis-
,

ville, ina sweltering almost unbearable heat. But

as I passed only one day in the city, I have little to
chronicle, except that I did good business and made
a few dollars. Eight hours railway journey and I
reached Nashville, where I felt 1 was really in the
veritable home of the negro, and every second individ-
ual was a coloured pusson.'
'
They lounged about
street corners, drove cars, carts, carriages and vans,
and swarmed in the streets. In the theatres there
were specially reserved parts for them, notices being
displayed For coloured persons only,' whilst on
'

the railway carriages compartments were re-

spectively labelled For white passengers only,' and
'
284 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
'
For coloured persons.' I passed down a side
turning off the main street, and noticed a small shop
having a window about six feet by four, with a wire
blind on the inner side, across the window on the
outside of which was written in whitewash Jake
Levine, Justice of the Peace. As I passed a terrible
commotion was going on within I entered, and ;

found a small shop about twelve feet square and

nine feet high, packed with negroes and negresses,
one of whom had a terrible gash about six inches
long straight across her face, the effects of a cut
with a razor. A barrier running across divided the
shop into two parts, two-thirds being devoted to
the public, the remainder being occupied by the
prosecutrix, and the defendant (for he was not a
prisoner),the former charging the latter with
attempted murder, and in the corner at a small
table sat a '
cow boy man, who wore a
' looking
slouch hat and who, was informed was Jake.'
I '

The noise in the Court was terrific, each vieing

'
'

with the other in shouting and threatening with

'
Cut yer deep.' I was told that when the niggers
quarrelled they produced razors and holding them
by the sheaths, used the swinging blade across each
other's faces, hence the threat '
I'll cut yer deep.'
I was not at all in love with Nashville as a city,
and should certainly dislike permanentit as a '

address.' I more interested in Memphis,

was
situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, that
eternal river with its 3,200 miles of water-way, or if

the main branch of the Missouri is included a total

length of 4,300 miles. It seems impossible to get
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 285

away from one can never lose it, it is like the

it ;

poor always with us.' One travels hundreds and

'

hundreds of miles, and arriving at a town ask

'
What river is that ?
'
'
Why, the Mississippi '
; travel
a few more hundreds and ask the question again,
and one gets a similar answer, always the '
Mis'sippi,'
the Mis'sippi.'
'
It twists and twines about and

winds and meanders to such an extreme, that in

one part of its pilgrimage it takes nearly 1,500 miles
to cover a point to point distance of 500 miles. It

has many other peculiarities, for instance it grows

narrower and deeper towards its mouth, it also has
a happy knack of occasionally cutting through little
peninsulas, thereby shortening itself somewhat, with
unpleasant complications to land-owners and others,
to say nothing of wiping out a person's property
altogether.
I spent a morning on the banks of the Mississippi
with an old river pilot who explained that he was
there before the Civil War, and gave me a graphic
description of a naval engagement in which the
Union forces defeated a Confederate fleet, destroy-
ing their vessels by bombarding them across a piece
of land forming a convenient bend in the river.
There seemed an element of truth about the story,
but in Memphis one never knows. The city is the
largest interior cotton market in the United States,
and indeed there seems to' be cotton everywhere.
Carted about the streets, unloaded from freight
trains in the depots, from barges and steamers at
the wharves, 'cotton-gins,'cotton compresses, every- '

where cotton.' I visited several 'cotton-gins,' and

286 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
had the process of guming,' cleansing or separating
'

the cotton from the husks and seed explained to

me. I was also much interested in the method of
hydraulically compressing the cotton into huge bales,
and securing them with iron bands ready for ship-
ment. There are a great many negroes in Memphis,
more than half the population being coloured. The
city is methodically and tastefully laid out located ;

in the centre being a small park, known to the

inhabitants as Squirrel Park, from the numbers of
tame squirrels scampering about in the trees and on
the lawns. The heat in Memphis is intense and in
the hot weather almost unbearable.
A journey of 826 miles through immense tracts
of forest and hundreds of miles of palm trees and
cacti, the railroad traversing swamps and marshes,
standing in which may be seen occasionally lonely
dwelling-places reared on high poles, out of reach
of the alligators and other reptiles which frequent
these marshy lagoons. I arrived at New Orleans,
the Crescent City or Metropolis of the South, where
once more the Mississippi is to be found. Here
indeed was the river, in all its majesty, and ranged
on its banks were splendid buildings and fine wharves,
where thousands of bales of cotton, sugar, and other
merchandise awaited shipment on board the freight
boats moored alongside the levee, whilst the presence
of a number of magnificent two funnel steamers,
loading at the wharves, indicated the enormous
commercial importance of the river at this point.
With the exception of Liverpool, New Orleans
is the largest cotton market in the world. The city
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 287

is spread out like a huge suburb, and planned with

a view of obtaining as much air and sunshine as

possible. There is an abundance of forest trees, a
wealth of fragrant flowers, and a never ending supply
of fruit, which includes the plum, pomegranate and
orange. This immense suburb is intersected by 450
miles of shady streets, and whilst it has a popula-
tion of less than a quarter of a million persons, an
area of 155 square miles is assigned. The city
is exceptionally interesting from the picturesqueness

of its older sections, whilst the most characteristic

features are its levee, wharves and French market.
The bustle of business begins at daybreak, crowds
of people comprising every nationality gathering
together, theFrench tongue predominating. The
main business thoroughfare and promenade on the
American side of the city is Canal Street, crossing
which the French quarter is reached, its chief
thoroughfare being the Rue Royale.
The streets have a system of open drains which
are about two feet wide and two feet deep and run
parallel with the side-walks. These are flushed
several times a day, and the city is considered to
be one of the healthiest in the Union. Owing to
the swampy nature of the country, it is impossible
to dig farbelow the surface without striking water.
This necessitates the burial of the dead in tombs
and huge mausoleums above ground some of which ;

indeed resemble miniature marble arches and

temples, the largest structures being owned by
clubs and societies for the reception of their de-
ceased members. The minor parts of the marble
288 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
walls of the larger tombs, are divided off into
square recesses, resembling large pigeon-holes, for
the reception of the coffins, which when deposited
are cemented up with a slab, upon which the name
or number is engraved, corresponding with a record
inscribed on a large slab or plate generally placed
near the entrance, which looks like the name
indicator usually found in the lobbies of large
office buildings. Seats are provided in railed off
portions under the shade of the trees and mauso-
leums, and it is not unusual to see large parties,
relatives of the dead, gathered together and picnick-
ing there, in order to be as near as possible to
the departed. Flowers and the cheaper but more
enduring emblem of regard, the indestructible
'Immortelle' made of black rag and white beads
decorate the tombs, the whole effect being grue-
some and ghastly ; though the cemetery is beauti-
fully laid out and kept in excellent order. Whilst
upon this not very cheerful subject I must mention
the curious custom in New Orleans of advertising
the decease of persons, by means of small printed
bills on lamp-posts and telegraph poles,
posted
notifying the fact to the public and desiring their
prayers for the repose of the departed souls.
Changing the subject and turning from grave
to gay, perhaps the most important annual event
in New Orleans is the Mardi-gras or Shrove
Tuesday festivities. The city is then given up
entirely to mirth, fun and Rex, the king
frolic.

of the carnival accompanied by a large retinue

robed in oriental splendour, is received at the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 289

City Hall. At night processions of fantastic

groups, with horses, chariots, masks, costumes,
whimsical dresses and other embellishments savour-
ing of Parisian taste, parade the streets, attended
by bearers of lanterns and flickering torches.
Thousands of persons take part in this revelry
and frolic, and private receptions, dances, and a
grand masked ball generally bring to a conclusion
the carnivalistic ceremonies of this day of rejoicing,
which are a survival of the French and Spanish
occupation of New Whilst dining at the
Orleans.
St Charles Hotel, one of the finest in America,
I was surprised to see numbers of small chameleons

running about and crawling over the plants

with which the tables and sideboards were
decorated.
I had always been given to understand that
their one accomplishment and occupation
great
was that of changing their colour, but though I
watched most carefully I failed to detect even a
blush, and have come to the conclusion that their
power is greatly exaggerated, and if exercised they
perform in private and not before the vulgar gaze.
Another species of reptile to be found in New
Orleans is the alligator. He is not nearly so
elegant as the chameleon, though there is more
of him. I had seen many of these creatures during

my excursions in the suburbs and by the canal,

but was considerably astonished when one evening
a friend made me a present of a small basket
containing two baby alligators, each measuring
about eighteen inches long. I had no particular
290 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
desire to keep them in my bedroom for the night,

so my friend suggested that they should find a

temporary shelter in the bath-room, and accordingly
the basket and the two babies were placed upon a
shelf over the bath.
My friend Brett, of whom
have already spoken,
I

was staying with me, and next morning was quietly

taking his bath, when suddenly the two alligators,
in some mysterious manner, having escaped from
the basket, flopped into the water. I might
mention that Brett has a great aversion to these
reptiles, especially when they attempt to join in

his matutinal bath, and it took him much less time

to get out of the water, than it did for him to get
into it. He rushed out of the bath-room, leaving
the two little beasts to their aquatic devices, and
bursting into my room, declared that the place
was alive with alligators. Harry refrains from
telling this story to teetotallers, and he says that
they are liable to put a wrong construction on it
Many are the blood-curdling tales told of the
voracity of these saurians around New Orleans.
On one instance a woman and five children, who
were bathing together in a canal, were said to be
devoured by one of these monsters. The reptile
must have been terribly distressed at the fifth babe.
I think this is on a par with a tale told me at the

St Charles, of two niggers, both waiters at the

hotel, one a very tall fat man, the other a short
thin man, who for a small wager entered into a
competition as to which of them could eat the most
between ii a.m. and 5 p.m. At 3 o'clock in the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 291

afternoon the little man was three turkeys and a

leg of pork ahead !

Horse-racing is a great feature of amusement

with the New Orleanite, races taking place nearly
every day. I thought the race course very good,
but the horses were a poor lot. and made a very
tame show.
 CHAPTER XXXVI
After visiting many other places of interest I

left New Orleans, and arrived two days later at

Washington. The '
city of magnificent distances,'
the seat of the Government of the United States,
forms part of the district Columbia. It is truly a
beautiful city ; the streets are wider than those of
any other city on the globe, and excepting the
chief business thoroughfares are all lined with
maple and elm trees. It may well be called the
city of distances, for looking from the Treasury,
down the Pennsylvania Avenue, a distance of a
mile and a half, the Capitol is seen situated at
the extreme end. It is a magnificent block of
buildings 751 feet long and covers an area of 3|-
acres, yet looking down the avenue it resembles a
child's toy in the vista. On the right of the avenue
is the Washington Monument, a plain obelisk 55
feet square at its base, and 555 feet high. From the
White House, the official residence of the President,
Cleveland, the twice-elected president of the United
States, who kindly promised me his patronage,
accompanied by Mrs Cleveland and Secretary
Olney, witnessed my performance at the Columbia
Theatre.
The theatre was packed with a fashionable
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 293

audience, including the British Ambassador Sir

Julian Pauncfoote and suite. I visited the Treasury
and saw the process of printing", cutting and
counting the bank notes, and was shown and
duly impressed with the sight of bullion to the
tune of 795,000,000. For once in my life I held
a million pounds or 5,000,000 dollars in my hands
for a moment, but I noticed the custodian did not
take his eye from me whilst it was in my possession.
I had a vague idea that he knew who I was, and
feared that I might put my professional ability into
practice and spirit it away. The bank notes which
are returned from circulation are destroyed by
pulping, after which a certain firm has the privilege
of modelling the pulp into small statuettes of the
president and many of the leading politicians, which
may be purchased for a '
dime ' or a '
quarter ' in

every part of America. I paid a visit to the

Senate Chamber, where a debate was proceeding,
the subject having reference to the Ohio Rail road.
The Congress Library is a fine building, but
the internal decorations I thought somewhat florid.

Among the places of interest in or about the city

may be mentioned the War
Department buildings,
art gallery, museums, botanic and zoological
gardens. The streets are spacious and run
north and south, and east and west. Those
running north and south are designated by
numbers, those running east and west, by letters
of the alphabet, so that an address say, 1002 P.
and 8th at first sounds curious to a stranger, but
one soon gets accustomed to it.
294 A MAGICIAlSr IN MANY LANDS
A short, journey of brought me to
^^l
miles,
Baltimore, where I arrived, in a heavy snow-storm,
and my first impressions were therefore not so
favourable, as they might otherwise have been,
though a closer inspection of its principal features
soon convinced one that it was a large and flourish-
ing city. Handsome buildings were numerous,
the New City Hall being one of the finest in the
country. The Peabody and Art Gallery is
Institute
also a fine specimen of architecture. There are
three universities, several colleges, and 125 public
schools, to say nothing of the 200 churches with
which the city is blessed. Several beautiful
monuments occupy prominent positions, the
principal being The Battle Monument,' and a
'

handsome memorial erected to the memory of

Washington, both constructed of white marble.
Baltimore possesses a number of parks, the most
important being the Druid Hill Park, which has
an area of 700 acres, and can claim more natural
beauties than any other park in the United States.
In its centre is a beautiful lake in which sea lions
disport themselves for the amusement of the
visitors.
Commerce is in a flourishing condition, nearly
every industry being represented. Over forty
million cans of Chesapeake oysters are packed
annually, and the fruit and vegetable packing is
also a thriving industry. The Roman Catholic
Cathedral one of the most fashionable places of
is

worship in and the service which I

Baltimore,
attended was one of great pomp and ceremony,
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 295

being conducted by the Cardinal. When the time

arrived for the sermon to be delivered, a large
hexagonal pulpit moved mechanically forward to
the centre of the chancel, and at the same time
a sounding board resembling a shell automatically
rose from the pulpit, and as it opened, disclosed
the officiating priest. Despite my sincere regard
for that spirit of reverence which is so necessary
in a sacred edifice must plead guilty to a sense
I

of risibility as I saw the priest appear. It seemed

so theatrically mechanical that it reminded me of

a transformation scene, whilst the appearance of
the priest from the inside of the shell irresistibly
suggested '
Venus rising from the Sea.'
In Baltimore met many persons whom I knew
I

in England, amongst whom was Mr Wuland, who

was playing a successful season, and for the amuse-
ment of the members of his company I gave a
private entertainment, at the Euton House Hotel.
Next I proceeded to Richmond, Va, and thence
to Plainfield, N. J. which may be looked upon as a
residental suburb of New York. Near the town is
the Washington Rock, from which elevation the
General used to watch the British movements. At
Trenton, N. J., I gave a performance at the Opera
House, but could see very little of the town in con-
sequence of the great amount of snow. From there
I went on to Orange, the home of the mosquito,

the residents appearing proud of this distinction,

which they perpetuate by emblazoning the fact in
the bowls of the souvenir spoons which are sold in
the city. Whilst there I experienced a terrible
 296 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
blizzard, snow being in some places ten feet
the
deep making it impossible to get about until the
;

snow-plough had been through the streets. This

plough threw the snow on either side forming huge
banks, through which passages had to be cut to
enable the pedestrians to pass from one side walk
to the other.
I Orange and crossed the Hudson River
left

which was frozen over, the ferry boat having made

four attempts to cut through the ice before we
succeeded in reaching our destination. The short
journey occupied two hours, two powerful tugs
being hitched on to the ferry boat to prevent it

drifting with the ice into New York Bay. The

next day I went and performed
to Hartford, Conn.,
saw little of the town, the
at Parson's Theatre, but
snow being between ten and fifteen feet deep and
the side walks and roads impassable except for
sleighs.
When I arrived at Worcester, Mass., I had a day

to spare, so drove to Quinsigamond Lake and

witnessed the ice-harvesting, the operation of
cutting and storing the vast quantity of ice being
extremely interesting. The ice is prepared for
cutting by first clearing the surface of accumulated
snow, which is accomplished by means of a scraper
drawn by a pair of horses across the area to be cut,
usually about 100 yards square. The ice-plough
consists of a series of sharp saw-like blades which
cut into the ice to the depth of five or six inches
and attached to one side is a dull flat blade which
runs at a distance of two feet parallel to the cutter
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 297

and serves as a gauge. After the first cut has been

made, the marker runs in the groove, by which
means the next and every succeeding cut is kept
equally distant. After the area has been cut in one
direction and again cleared, the operation of cutting
repeated cross-wise, at right-angles, the cuts this
is

time being three feet apart. The ice is about 15

or 18 inches thick and the plough-blades having
cut but six inches deep, the cakes of ice three feet
by two are not separated entirely, but broken off
from the main body, by means of a four pronged
spade-like instrument called a fork-bar, into blocks
of fifty cakes, each cake weighing about 250 lbs.
The large blocks are floatedand steered by men,
armed with long poles which have a spike fixed at
one end, down channels already cut in the lake.
The icehouse, situated near the edge of the lake,
is a huge shed-like structure without floors, about

eighty feet in height, and having a door running all

the way up the side of the building. As the blocks
pass down the channels, men stationed upon planks
break off the rows of five cakes as they float beneath
them, the pronged instruments acting as huge ice-
picks. The rows of five cakes are guided down
other narrow channels, about two feet six inches
wide, which run at right angles to the largest water
way, where they are separated into single cakes,
and float along to the foot of an inclined place
.
;

here a series of wooden cleats are fixed to an end-

less chain, these cleats form a series of chambers
capable of holding one cake of ice at a time. In
these the cakes are elevated and cleared of any odd
298 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
pieces of ice or snow by passing under a hinged
scraper, faulty blocks being broken by men stationed
on the elevator. There are a number of runaways
leading from the elevator to the icehouse, along
which -the cakes are guided to their destination
and stowed away inside the building. Great skill
is required to draw the blocks off at the right place,

as the pace with which they are poled from the end
of the lake to the scaffolding and up the inclined
plane into the icehouse is remarkable, and keeps
everybody hustling who is connected with the
'
'

work. The icehouse to which I refer holds about

5o,oco tons of ice, but there are many which hold
twice that quantity. In America the cutting and
storing of ice forms an important industry during the
winter months, as much as 2,000,000 tons being
annually stored ; of which New York alone consumes
half a million tons.
Whilst at New Haven, Conn., I gave a per-
formance to the boys of Yale College which they
much appreciated, I having managed to get into their
good books. I found New Haven, or to give it its

Indian appellation, Quinnipiac, a pretty little town

'

about four miles square, nicely laid out and bulging '

with colleges and college residences. There is a

park or public green of sixteen acres in the centre
of the city, the streets are wide and shady, the
squares and streets being planted with elms, which
are fine and abundant. The Hyperion Theatre is

very fine, as are most theatres in America, every

town no matter how small boasts an Opera
little

House. The towns-folk have a great idea of the

 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 299

magnitude of Quinnipiac, as the following story-

shows. One afternoon I happened to be in a
jeweller's shop making a small purchase and the
proprietor and I were soon, in an animated con-
versation. Among other things he spoke' to me
about London, as he 'guessed I- was' a Britisher'
and came from there I replied that he had guessed
:

right. He then became very confidential and said

quite seriously, Now I have heard that this
'
!

London is a big place say what size is it, is it as

; !

big as New Haven ? I ventured to inform him

'

that New Haven would just about stand in my

garden. He seemed quite annoyed and would not
believe London was larger than New Haven then :

pulling down his waistcoat with an air of satisfaction

said, I shall go some day and see for myself.'
'
We
parted good friends though I told him not to forget
to pack up and bring New Haven along.
My experience in New Britain was not at all
brilliant. My diary informs me that New Britain
has a fine theatre, a fine Roman Catholic Church,
a bad hotel, is a one-horse town and was the birth-
place of Elihu Burritt.
My next calling place was Springfield, Mass.,
where I stayed two days, and had an opportunity
of inspecting the United States Arsenal, the
Armoury and the Springfield breech-loading rifle
factory. The prevalence of snow prevented a close
inspection of the city, which is rather above the
average of American towns, the streets being wide
and lined with elms and maples. The chief
architectural features are the City Hall, the
30O A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Library, St Michael's Cathedral and several fine
churches. A magnificent block of buildings is that
used as by the Boston and Albany Railroad.
offices
Six hours by rail, and I arrived at Burlington, Vt.,
where I gave a performance at the Opera House.
Burlington is picturesquely situated on the east
bank of Lake Champlairf across which may be
seen the Adirondack mountains in the distance.
The air in this locality is very bracing, and the
neighbourhood much frequented as a health resort.
The lake was frozen and ice-boats were sailing
gaily over its surface, the speed attained being
mjrvellous, sixty miles an hour being nothing
unusual. Skaters with large sails fixed across their
backs, which they manipulated by means of short
cords, were skating on the lake, the wind impelling
them along the ice with great velocity. A fine
quality of marble is found near Burlington, the
quarry being said to be the largest in the States.
There are I believe no liquor saloons licensed in
Burlington, and consequently liquors are supplied
surreptitiously at barbers' shops and billiard saloons.
Nearly everything bears a tax. For example,
persons owning pianos are taxed, in many
instances doubtless a blessing in disguise, but it

seems pretty hard that a person should be taxed

for wearing a gold watch, which I am told is the
case, that is if the case is gold !

Seventy-three miles north of New York and

located on a tableland 200 feet above the east bank
of the Hudson river, stands the quaint little city of
Pough-Keepsie, quaint not only in itself, but in its
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 301

name, for the spelling ofwhich there are forty-two

different methods. The town is neatly laid out
with good wide shaded streets with trees planted on
the edges of the side walks, whilst outside the town
are villas and bungalows, prettily situated over-
looking the Hudson. I passed a couple of days
pleasantly enough at the Nelson House Hotel, and
although my business occupied the greater part of
my time I found an opportunity of accompanying
my friend Brett to a pretty little place about twenty
miles distant named
Wappingers Falls. We
started about mid-day, and in a very short time
were quite in the country ; tramping along a wide
beaten track, with a prolific growth of scrub, under-
growth and small bush trees on either side. As
Brett remarked, we seemed to be now in the back-
woods of America in reality. We had tramped
about an hour and anticipated striking the track
of a narrow gauge tramway, which we were in-
formed we should find at a junction a few miles on.
At length we came to the tram rails rather over-
grown with grass at this particular point, and we
followed the lines expecting the tramcar to over-
take us. Turning a head in the beaten path
imagine our horror to find our further progress
barred by a couple of 'bars,' I should say bears,
standing on their hind legs in the path about 100
yards ahead of us, one of them as I judged stood
about eight feet high, the other about five feet only.
Personally I am not well acquainted with the
idiosyncrasies of bears, and so proposed that we
should turn back, but Brett who was armed with a
302 A MAG:ICIAN IN MANY LANDS
we had better tackle them.
thick stick thought that
Brett alwayswas a valiant fellow, but I felt that
my own prowess was not equal even to the smaller
one. As the beasts came slowly towards us, I
suggested as a compromise, that we should hide
in the thicket a little out of the beaten track and
hold a Council of War. To this Brett agreed, and
we dived several yards into the wood A few
minutes later we heard a rasping, singing in the
air, which we instantly recognised as heralding a
trolley wheel on the wire over the tram track. We
hastened out of the scrub and looking back, there,
sure enough was the tiny car in the distance dancing
swiftly along towards us on the undulating rails.
We signalled the driver to stop, and to our in-
tense relief, got safely aboard Saved.' '
On went
our little 'saviour,' we soon came up to the bears
and as we dashed past saw that they were muzzled,
whilst two men, their keepers, were slumbering
peacefully on the neighbouring bank !
 CHAPTER XXXVII
Saratoga Springs lies in the valley of the
Hudson, 185 miles from New York City, its chief
attractions being the mineral springs, which from
time to time have been discovered. There are
between forty and fifty distinct varieties of waters
found here, the constituent parts of which differ
considerably in their nature. As a summer resort
the springs are extensively patronised by the
genteel and fashionable folk of America. The
name of Saratoga had hitherto conjured up in my
mind those thin, tasty slices of cold, crisp potato,

salt, and so seductive. The

palatable, appetising
counters and bars of saloons and restaurants seemed
to be the abiding places of those alluring morsels.
Place a dish of walnuts with salt before anybody
and the temptation to continue eating is great.

Just another —the last —he says, but the last rarely

comes until the dish of nuts is removed one way

or another, so with the 'Saratoga chip,' a man
will one chip, then take two or three, then
eat
every now and then break from the friend with
whom he is in conversation and furtively sidle up
to the dish, as if he were committing a theft, steal
another large pinch, repeating the operation until
the dish is finished. The Saratoga chip was a rare
304 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
provoker of and therefore provided gratis in
thirst
the liquor saloons. I was particularly on the look

out for the '

chip ' in Saratoga, but did not find it,

so take it that the '

chip ' is going out of favour as
being calculated to nullify the medicinal virtues of
its mineral springs.
The hotels in Saratoga are the largest in the
world, and according tosome reports in the dining-
rooms, black waiters are mounted on horseback
and gallop about the room that they may more
expeditiously serve the numerous patrons of the
hotel. I cannot vouch for the truth of this state-
ment, but I did notice with astonishment, the
remarkable way which the waiters carried huge
in
loads of plates and dishes of food on salvers a yard
in diameter, balanced on their finger tips and held
at arm's length over their heads, running quickly
about the immense dining-rooms, in and out of
the tables without accident in a manner most
phenomenal.
Saratoga was en fete with a flower carnival
' '

and a grand demonstration by the various fire

brigades. In the main thoroughfare several
manual fire engines were stationed, and at a
distance of about 150 yards, there was a slightly
inclined plane, about fifty feet long and a yard wide,
starting fiom the ground and gradually rising to
the height of 10 feet at the farthest end. This
platform was covered with white paper, and the
competitors with this hand engine worked the
pumps, whilst one of their number directed the
stream of water on to the inclined plane, the
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 305

mark made on the paper

extreme'.limit of the wet
being marked with a pencil.
afterwards The
winning squad were those whose strength projected
the water the greatest distance up the plane.
There were other competitions with steam engine
for efficiency in drill and preparation, all of which
were extrerriely interesting.
I passed one day at Newburgh, where beyond
seeing ~ Washington's, house and . a collection of
curios and relics, there was little of interest.
Emulating the only American who never told a
'

lie,' I will content myself by remarking that I left

Newburgh without a pang.

A short stay in Utica and Ithaca, in which towns
there is little to interest the stranger, except that
mention might be made of the Cornell University in
Ithaca, and I proceeded through the beautiful Lehigh
Valley to Rochester. I found Rochester Flour City,
a fine city, having well-paved wide streets lighted
with electricity and trees growing in abundance. It

is a prosperous manufacturing town, boots, shoes

and ready-made clothing being its chief industry.

The Genesee River flows through the town, and
the Genessee Falls are quite near. To the power
therefrom obtained, and to the fact of Rochester
being an important railway centre, much of its
prosperity can be attributed. There are numerous
fine buildings, many of the sky-scraping order. I

gave a performance at the Lyceum Theatre, which

was well attended and a financial success.
If there is one thing on this earth that an
American workman seems to have a grudge
u
3o6 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
against, it is a baggage, basket or trunk of foreign
manufacture. If America with an
one travels in
ordinary English clothes trunk, in less than a week
it will be smashed to a certainty. Everybody is
down on it, the railroad porters, the express men,
the baggage man in hotels and the employees at
theatres, all seemed banded together in a solemn
compact to do as much damage as possible in the
shortest space of time. At the depots an ordinary
trunk such as is used in England, would be un-
ceremoniously hurled from a freight van, and a
heavy American Saratoga trunk, iron bound, iron
clasps, iron corners, and fastened with two locks
and four heavy iron hasps hurled out on to it, with
the result that its poor little English brother is.
smashed to pieces. Baskets come in for the same
ill-treatment, being pitched about without the
smallest consideration, and holes knocked in them
by the iron corners of trunks weighing nearly half
a ton.
At the close of the performance at the Lyceuni
Theatre, I heard repeated thuds on the stage, and
left my
dressing-room to ascertain the cause, I
found boxes and baskets being dropped straight
from the flies, a distance of about forty feet, with
but a mattress for them to fall upon, and this only
to save the stage floor. The baggage had been
taken to the flies by means of an elevator, but was
being simply hurled down from the store-room to
save trouble without any thought as to the damage
done to my property. At Ithaca I had a trunk
pitched out of the baggage van on to the track,
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 307

and the box was smashed so badly that it was

impossible to use it. I had to leave someone
in charge, whilst I went to the town and bought
another trunk. I have never found such dis-
regard for property in any other country I have
visited.
Schenectady is one of those towns which it is

difficult to describe. As the coster said when he

upset his barrow of fruit in a crowded thoroughfare,
'
word for it.' I should think it was
there ain't a
rarely visited by any but those who, for their sins,
were obliged to go there, or by such as for some
reason wish to keep their business doings fairly
private. For this reason I presume Edison has
established his works there, and he has my assur-
ance that he be free from the vulgar gaze.
will

The construction of locomotives and iron bridges

is the chief industry, and the place boasts the
possession of a fine theatre, named the Van Curler
Opera House. Farewell Schenectady !
—
What a
contrastto the last named town is the city of
Albany (New Amsterdam) situated on the Hudson,
near the mouth of the Mohawk River. It can

hardly be called a beautiful city, although the

streets are wide and roomy. It is not laid out
with the regularity of most American cities, but
there are a few fine buildings, the chief being the
capitol, to the building of which thirty years have
been devoted, and although not yet finished it has
cost upwards of twenty-one millions of dollars.
The city contains many fine churches and a
handsome and well appointed Roman Catholic
3o8 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
Cathedrg,!. There is. a large theatre called -
'
the
Harmanus Bleeker.' Hall, where I gave a successful
performance.
A flying visit to Troy and then I made a journey
down the Hudson, one of the noblest rivers of the
United States. The upper part of the river is
monotonous and unattractive, but lower down the
scenery is beautiful and varied. Seated in the
observation car at the rear of the train the beauties
of this grand river unfold themselves in an endless
and everchanging panorama. The day was glorious,
and in the early morning the ' variegated colours of
the woods, sloping hills and the cultivated lands,
were exquisite in the extreme ; whilst the picturesque
appearance of the many some immortalised
islands,
by Fenimore Cooper, was striking and magnificent
and added greatly to the interest of the journey.
We passed through wild but wooded regions where ,

grand glimpses of the Catskill Mountains were

obtained verdure clothed the distinct slopes, and
:

a peculiar charm was added by the occasional

richness of the sylvan beauty of the scene. As-
we passed along we got a view of Poughkeepsie
on the distant bank of the river, and further on
still the pretty little town of Peekshill came into

view, looking quite picturesque in the sunlight,

with its own image reflected, in the glintmg waters.
Upon turning the sharp bends in the river, we
came upon grand stretches of woods rising up from
the water's edge in a harmony of blended shades
and variations of colours. Lower down the river
the hills rose precipitously from the water, and in
 A MAGICIAJ^ m MANY LANDS 309

some respects, the views in this part of the river

are singularly impressive and possess a grandeur
peculiar to themselves, in many cases quite
unparalleled.
^ As we neared Hoboken and Jersey City the
Palisades rose picturesquely to the height of
between 300 to 500 feet and continued for twenty
miles along the west bank of the river. We
arrived at Weehawkew and taking the ferry were
soon once more in New York.
A word about Brooklyn. I arrived there on
election day, and must confess my astonishment.
Everybody was election mad, and I never witnessed
such a scene as the streets of New York presented
on this occasion. Myriads of flags decorated the
streets, and hundreds of thousands of people
crowded the thoroughfares in a state of semi-wild
excitement. As I passed up Broadway sorne business
premises burst into flames, but in less time than it

-takes me to write of it, engines were on the spot,

a teniporary bridge erected across the roadway
upon which the hose was run, so as not. to stop
the traffic of the street cars, the engines were
taken up a side street, the firemen got to work,
the fire was soon under control and it was not
long before the flames were quite extinguished.
'Meanwhile the election mob continued its orgies;
shouting and blowing horns, singing and shrieking
and letting, off fireworks. Processions marched
and counter-marched, Headed by men carrying
lighted torches, girls blowing horns and trumpets
rode bicycles. Cinematograph pictures, many
310 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
coloured were exhibited outside every newspaper
bands playing during these displays, whilst
office,

the crowd roared expression of delight or disgust,

as the subjects exhibited pleased or displeased
them. Mingling with the crowd, I watched the
spectacle and did not retire to my hotel until
the small hours of the morning, the proceedings
being kept up throughout the whole of the night.
I spent about ten days on this visit, between
Brooklyn and New York, and gave several private
exhibitions at mansions in the Fifth Avenue, and a
very successful performance at- the Freundschaft
Club, where many ladieswere among the audience.
Social intercourse between youths and maidens is
everywhere more easy and unrestrained in
America than in England. A girl has her own
friends who when they call, ask for her, and are
received by her, it may be alone, because they are
not deemed to be necessarily friends of her parents
also. In no country are women and especially
young women made so much of, the world indeed
is at their feet. An American lady does not expect
to have conversation made to her by a man, but feels
it asmuch her duty or pleasure to lead it as his.
The American man is a good hospitable fellow
at heart, never tired of doing good turns, but
of course taking a very back seat when women
are 'en evidence.' When among his confreres
bluff is the order of the day, but always good-
humoured and without malice.
 CHAPTER XXXVIII
The time has now arrived when must enter
I

upon the last stage of this my journey round the

world. I felt a natural longing to see the dear
ones at home arrd to walk once more through
the old familiar Strand, and a longing, which I had
experienced hundreds of times during my eighteen
months' absence, to be for only one hour in
London.
My agent had secured for me a berth on board
the Lucania, and on my arrival at the pier I found
many good friends assembled to au revoir and '
'

wish me God speed. One indeed showed the

sincerity of his wishes by placing in my cabin a
case of champagne, a thoughtfulness which was
much appreciated by myself and some acquaintances
on board every morning in my cabin. As the
good ship steamed out of New York harbour,
past the Liberty Statue into the open sea, I felt
a relief, a sense of satisfaction that I had so nearly
completed my journey, at the same time a sceptical
feeling as to whether I had really travelled so nearly
round the world. We had a very pleasant passage
similar in many respects to others already described ;

the greater part of my time being occupied in look-

312 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS

H^ 'l^~>-%<v-

Charles Bertram
 A MAGICIAl^ IN MANY LANDS 313

ing overmy papers, and putting in order the notes^

from which the experiences chronicled in this
volume have been compiled. Among the passengers
on board were several members of a celebrated
Opera Company, some of whom I had the pleasure
of knowing intimately, and whom I also knew were
ardent devotees of the game of 'poker.' On many
occasions they invited me to take ahand with them,
but as I seldom -play cards, and had a great desire
to complete my notes, ere my journey ended, I

begged them to excuse me. Every day they

repeated their invitation, and at length in sheer
desperation late one evening I consented.
Many people, I don't say all, regard a conjuror
who plays cards as a kind of genteel card-
sharp, and there was therefore great interest in
the card room when I took my seat at the table.
Many of the onlookers were curious to see what
would happen, speculating as to the penalty of such
temerity on the part of the other players. I over-
heard one remark 'Wait until it's Bertram's deal
you'll see how he'll fleece them.' Another said
'
I pity you fellows, I wouldn't play with him.'
The latter part of this remark referring of course
to the poor innocent conjuror. Well, the game
went on, irrespective of remarks
these impolite
until it came to my turn to deal, Now you notice '

the hand Bertram will deal himself,' I heard

whispered. I dealt and the betting commenced.
The man on my immediate left came in, others
went out, the man on my right came in, and I
found all eyes on the dealer, myself; I tried to
314 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS
look wise and perplexed, and at length to the
surprise of the onlookers threw up my cards and
went out of the game, leaving the two who had
'
come in '
betting against each other. They bet
and '
raised ' each other alternately, until the stakes
reached a fabulous amount, even to pledging their
perspective salaries, and neither would give way.
I went on with my work, and presently the lights
were extinguished, and the cards were enclosed
in envelopes, for neither would give way. Next
morning betting recommenced, both being equally
obstinate. At last being within a half hour of Queens-
town where one of the players was leaving the ship,
it was finally agreed, as neither would give in, to

make a draw of it. The envelopes were opened,

and it was found that each player held a royal
straight flush. What did they call me ? Well,
I'll not say; but on leaving Oueenstown I was
desired to attend on the upper deck dnd on
my arrival was informed that a presentation
was about to be made
There were a
to me.
great number of passengers assembled, and a
box about twelve inches square was handed to
me, together with a letter. I thanked them and

opened the box, which contained a toy lamb on

wheels, which squeaked when its head was gently
pressed. The letter stated the gift was presented '

to me by a few admirers as a small token of their

esteem and as a symbol of my much vaunted
innocence.'
We made a very fast passage, the time being five
days and nineteen hours. Liverpool was soon
 A MAGICIAN IN MANY LANDS 315

reached, and I duly arrived at Euston. I will

draw a veil over my reception and the affectionate
greetings I received, but as I had not yet quite
completed the circuit of the world, I drove to
Victoria Station, and walked up the platform to
the identical spot from whence I had started
eighteen months previously.

MERCAT PKESS, EDINBURGH