PRINTING TECHNIQUES

A COMPARISON OF COTTON PRINTING TECHNIQUES

Modern textile printing incorporates a wide variety of colorants and technologies to
produce a diverse array of printed textile products at various stages in the product
development process. Today, rotary screen printing accounts for the majority of
cotton printed clothing; however, newer printing technologies such as digital printing
and cool transfer printing are attracting attention because of their reduced
environmental footprint, and seemingly limitless color and design capabilities.

COOL TRANSFER PRINTING DIGITAL PRINTING ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

A process that transfers a print design from paper A process that applies small drops of color through A continuous method of printing in which a
to fabric. A special coated paper is printed with the print heads onto a fabric. There is virtually no limit perforated cylindrical screen is used to apply color.
desired pattern which is then transferred to the to the number of colors or size of the request. Color is forced from the interior of the screen onto
fabric under ambient conditions. the fabric.

Cool Transfer Print Digital Print Rotary Screen Print

FABRICAST™ SK-1871-14CT FABRICAST™ DK-2810-2A FABRICAST™ SK-1923-4P (Puff)

COMPARING PRINTING TYPES = Rotary = Cool Transfer = Digital

SPEED PHOTO RE ALISTIC PRINT PAT TERN ESTIMATED WATER, ENERGY,

QUALIT Y FLEXIBILIT Y COST CHEMICAL INPUTS

FAST HIGH HIGH HIGH MOST

SLOW LOW LOW LOW LEAST

PRINTING TECHNIQUES
COOL TRANSFER PRINTING
Market interest in transfer printing on cotton fabrics has been strong for many years; however, standard heat transfer printing was achievable only for polyester
and nylon fabrics, and the transfer prints available for cotton offered poor hand and were limited in terms of inks available. Today, cool transfer printing technology
makes it possible to transfer digital quality prints to a cotton fabric under ambient conditions.

KEY FEATURES ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

• Transfer print design from paper to fabric • Ability to produce photorealistic images • Newest technology
• No heat required • Comparable speeds to rotary screen • More expensive than rotary printing, but
• Typical speeds: 20 to 40 yards per minute printing typically less expensive than digital
• Best for: High quality cotton fabrics, • Maintains soft, drapeable feel printing on per yard basis
photorealistic images, brilliant • Increased image brightness • No raised surface special effects, e.g.,
colors, soft and drapeable fabrics • Reduced water, dye and energy glitter, mother of pearl, metallic flakes,
consumption, less waste puff
• High dye transfer and colorfastness

COLOR RICH AND COST COMPETITIVE

Cool transfer printing provides the flexibility to print on a variety of fabrics, the photorealistic of unfixed dye. The reduction of steps in the printing process
print quality of digital printing, and production rates comparable to rotary screen printing. provides both a cost effective and environmentally friendly
Even with the over printing technique, cool transfer printed products maintain the soft, alternative to digital and rotary screen printing due to minimized
natural feel of the cotton fiber. A recent innovation to the cool transfer printing technology water usage. Cool transfer print rolls can also be used multiple
is the capability to print on both sides of the fabric during one pass on a duplex printing times, and used printed transfer paper can be repurposed for
machine. The technology allows for easy diversification of pattern design and coloring, and other applications such as packaging.
achievement of multiple print/dye effects on single fabric. Although dye selection is the
ultimate determinant of fabric colorfastness, in testing, cool transfer printing has exhibited
better colorfastness compared to digital printed textiles, due to better penetration of the dye
into the fiber.
READY TO COMPETE
Although cool transfer printing offers many advantages
for printed cotton fabrics, the technology is relatively new.
Therefore the cost and performance are key barriers to adoption
into widespread production. While cool transfer printing cannot
replace the special effect printing possible with rotary screen
printing (e.g., glitter or puff), its speed, limited WEC footprint,
strong color depth and colorfastness, and image quality make it
a strong competitor.

Cool Transfer Print

FABRICAST™ SK-1987-2A3 – 97% Cotton / 3% Spandex, Jersey

ENVIRONMENTAL ADVANTAGE
Fewer process steps combined with lower consumption and output of WECs (water, energy
and chemicals) make cool transfer printing a compelling environmentally friendly alternative
to other cotton print methods. A key difference between traditional transfer printing and cool
transfer printing is the elimination of heat in the process. Cool transfer printing is executed
at room temperature, therefore not requiring heat. Unlike other methods of printing, up
to 90% dye transfer is achievable with cool transfer printing. With greater dye utilization,
there is less dye lost in the printing process, and therefore no need for extensive removal

PRINTING TECHNIQUES
DIGITAL INK JET PRINTING
Digital printing is the fastest growing segment of the printed textiles market. From a technical standpoint, digital printing is identical to the technology used in a
household inkjet printer, though larger to accommodate fabrics that are up to 126 inches wide. The digital print heads deposit ink droplets onto fabric based on a
predetermined pattern from the digital file. This non-contact printing technology eliminates the need to produce screens which are required for traditional printing
methods.2 Digital printing has been used in conjunction with body-scan data to produce printed fabrics that are custom fitted for the individual. It has also been
used to rapidly produce trial prints for sale or evaluation.

KEY FEATURES ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

• Digital image transferred to fabric • No limit to number of colors • High cost
• Nozzles eject ink droplets directly onto fabric • Instant registration • Poorer colorfastness
• Non-contact process • Capable of large repeat sizes • Fabric may require special preparation and
• Photorealistic and complex images • High speed for prototyping pre-treatment to improve absorption and
• Full CAD integration • On-demand printing, less printed inventory keep colorant from smearing
• Typical speeds: 30 to 40 yards per hour for needed • Digital print heads are easily damaged and
traversing head machines. Some newer • Sampling and production done on the costly to replace
machines claim linear throughput speeds same printer • No raised surface special effects, e.g.,
up to 100 yards per minute. • Lower water and power consumption, and glitter, mother of pearl, metallic flakes,
• Best for: Sampling, small runs <500 yards chemical waste puff

ENDLESS DESIGN CAPABILITIES POISED FOR PRODUCTION

One of the key advantages of digital textile printing is the endless design capabilities. Digital Today, digital printing accounts for an estimated 2% of the
printing offers photorealistic and fine detail image quality, unlimited colors, repeat size, and world’s printed textiles; however, the global market for digital
the ability to change from one design to another without any waste of printed fabric. textile printing is expected to grow 17.9% from 2016 to 2022,4
The on-demand nature of digital printing also accommodates customized designs and primarily driven by clothing and home textiles.5 While recent
reduces lead-times. Digital printers can print on fabric yardage and whole garments, and innovations in print head design and expansion of digital printing
allow for printing on dark colors. Direct to garment t-shirt printing is the newest and fastest inks and color control processes have helped expand demand,
growing digital printing method for garment printing. This technology employs a digital compared to other cotton printing methods, the digital printed
ink jet printer and a form (platen) which is used to hold the garment in the correct position textile market is limited by the complexity of the process and
during the printing process. This technology is also used to print directly on socks, hats and the ability to address the volume needs of a broader market.3,6,7
even shoes. Additionally, the pre- and post-treatments required for digital
printing also demand dedicated equipment and technical
expertise based on the specific ink technologies being used.8
QUALITY AND SPEED
Because the digital print design is communicated with a digital image file, greater image
quality and color control may be achieved. The types of colorants used will determine the
need for and type of pre- and post- fabric treatment. Reactive dyes (high saturation, vivid
colors) always require both pre- and post-treatment to ensure that the dye chemically bonds
with the fiber, and to remove excess dyes from the printed fabric. For pigments, washing
may be required when a pretreatment is used; otherwise it is not needed. Post-treatment is
always required.

While digital printing can achieve incredible photorealistic quality, colorfastness can be an
issue compared to other cotton print methods. Although colorfastness primarily depends on
dye selection, less dye penetrates the fiber because digital printing is a non-contact process.
New research in digital printing is focused on increasing color depth and colorfastness.

Although digital printing is more costly than rotary screen printing, industry experts argue
that digital printing’s efficiencies ultimately make it a more cost-effective option on shorter
runs. Because digital printing eliminates the need for a screen likes the ones that are created
Digital Print
for rotary screen printing, downtime for screen changing and cleanup is eliminated, and print FABRICAST™ SK-1951-5A1 (Reactive)
registration issues are reduced.3 While not a replacement for rotary screen printing, today
digital inkjet printing is a viable commercial alternative for small runs (<50 yards) of highly
styled premium fabrics.

PRINTING TECHNIQUES
ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING
This is the most commonly used print method, and accounts for approximately 65% of the printed fabric market worldwide. This continuous method of printing
applies color through a perforated cylindrical screen. As the screen rotates, a squeegee device inside of the screen pushes the print medium through the screen and
onto the fabric.

KEY FEATURES ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES

• Continuous printing method • Fastest printing method • Not profitable for short yardages
• Color is applied through a perforated • Quick changeover of patterns • Sampling and production may look
cylindrical rotating screen • Versatile design and special effect different
• Typical speeds: 50 to 120 yards per minute options • Some color limitations, prints only
• Best for: Long runs of the same pattern, • Cost effective for long production runs spot colors
complex patterns, surface treatments • Not suitable for fine detail
such as glitter, adhesives, sequins, • Higher speed printing can cause
pearlescent, metallic, 3D particles registration problems
• Cannot print in garment form

VERSATILE DESIGNS FUTURE OF ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

Today’s rotary screen machines are highly productive, allow for the quick changeover of While rotary screen printing is not one of the newest printing
patterns, have few design limitations, and can be used for both continuous and discontinuous technologies, it still accounts for the majority of today’s printed
patterns. Although the size of the design repeat is dependent upon the circumference of the textiles. Innovations in this area are focused on automation,
screens, the standard circumference of production screens measure 25.75”, 32”, or 36” and efficiency and sustainability. New developments include laser
there are also many custom screens available. On average, rotary screen printing machines assisted screen alignment systems to reduce registration
operate between 12 and 24 screens, which allow for between 13 and 25 colors respectively issues, and new systems that recapture and reuse print paste or
(+1 color for the fabric color). Rotary screen printing can accommodate both reactive dyes wastewater. Other developments are focused on improving print
and pigments. Reactive dyes form a bond with the fiber, and therefore the finished product paste flow from the screens to the fabrics.
performs more like a dyed fabric, with high colorfastness and soft hand. To properly fix the
reactive dye, steaming the fabric is necessary. In contrast, pigments are attached to the
surface of the fabric. After printing, the fabric goes through a tenter to dry and cure the print
onto the fabric. The print can be felt on the surface of the fabric. While versatile in terms of
design and special printing effects, rotary screen printing, unlike digital printing, does not
allow for printing in garment form.

FAST AND EFFICIENT

Rotary screen printing is the fastest printing method for cotton with typical speeds ranging
from 50 to 120 yards per minute depending upon design complexity and fabric construction.
While cool transfer printing and digital inkjet printing can claim lower WEC inputs and
outputs, rotary screen printing’s environmental advantage is efficiency due to its fast speeds
and high yields. Rotary screen printing can accommodate long fabric lengths, and provides
a continuous and economical process.1 Due to high screen engraving costs and machine
downtime needed to change patterns, rotary screen printing machines are generally not
Rotary Screen Print
profitable for short yardages of widely varying patterns.1 FABRICAST™ SK-2004-1B (Reactive)

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AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2018 Cotton Incorporated.

[1] C.W. Kan, C.W.M. Yuen, (2012). Digital ink-jet printing on textiles, Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 16(2), 1-24, https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-16-02-2012-B001; [2] Choi, P., Yuen, C., Ku, S., & Kwan, C.
(2003). Ink-jet printing for textiles. Textile Asia, 34(10), 21; [3] Marks, J. (2017). The next era of fabric printing. Home Textiles Today, 38(2), 10-11; [4] Savastano, D. (2017, August). The digital textile market. Ink World
Magazine. Retrieved from https://www.inkworldmagazine.com/issues/2017-07-01/view_features/the-digital-textile-market/; [5] (2016, November). Smithers Pira forecasts 17.5% annual growth for digital textile
print. Retrieved from http://www.smitherspira.com/news/2016/november/growth-for-digital-textile-print-market; [6] Chapman, L. P. (2017). The growing world of digital printing. Textile World, 167(1), 1-4; [7] Digital
print segment continues to grow. (2016). Textile Network (English Edition), 14(1/2), 19; [8] Closing the gap between digital technology and textile market needs. http://www.paperandprint.com/smart-directions/
features/sd2016/march-2016/closing-the-gap-between-digital-technology-and-textile-market-needs.aspx#.WpL_9GiPI2x