TEXTILE SPINNING

Process Quality Control

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TEXTILE SPINNING
The process or processes used in the production of single
yarns or of fabrics generated directly from polymer.

1. Yarn from Staple Fiber:

The formation of a yarn by a combination of drawing
or drafting and twisting prepared strands of fibers, such
as roving.

2. Filament Yarn:
In the spinning of manufactured filaments, fiber-forming
substances in the plastic or molten state, or in solution,
are forced through the fine orifices in a metallic plate
called a spinneret, or jet, at a controlled rate. The
solidified filaments are drawn-off by rotating rolls, or
godets, and wound onto bobbins or pirns. There are
several methods of spinning manufactured. Dry, Gel,
Wet, Melt, Reaction and Phase Separation Spinning.

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 Spinning Process Diagram
1. RAW MATERIAL
2. BLOW ROOM
3. CARDING
4. DRAWING
5. COMBING
6. FINISHING
7. ROVING
8. RING
9. WINDING
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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
Quality of raw material can be defined in various terms, as we studies Garvin
categories quality into various terms.
1. Transcendent (product is superior to all competing products in every
way possible.)
2. Product based
3. User based
4. Manufacturing based
5. Value based

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
Garvin Eight attributes for quality also can implies in textile
1. Performance of Material / Product / Process
2. Features
3. Reliability
4. Conformance
5. Durability
6. Serviceability
7. Aesthetic
8. Perceived quality

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
Textile raw material universally called Textile Fibers:

A unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic

element of fabrics and other textile structures.

 A fiber is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter

or width.

The term refers to units that can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric
by various methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and
twisting.

The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length
of at least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength.
Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability,
and luster.

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
Fiber used as raw material for textile fabrics, are divided
(1), Animal Fibers, as wool, hair, silk;

(2), Vegetable Fibers, as cotton, linen, jute, hemp, ramie, etc.;

(3), Mineral Fibers, as asbestos; and

(4), Artificial Fibers, as glass, metal threads, various artificial silks, etc.;

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
Quality control and Quality assurance for textile evaluated through Testing
Process.
TEXTILE TESTING CAN BE DIVIDED INTO:
1- CHEMICAL TESTING
2- PHYSICAL TESTING
The textile engineer or technologist in the quality of a product by doing:
 In –Process of Final Verification
 Visual Inspection
 Hand Appraisal
 Laboratory Testing and Quality Control
For some tests, internationally recognized standards exist, such as :
 ASTM
 ISO
 ANSI
 AATCC etc.

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:
100% cotton samples in the form of bale or opened and cleaned material
(card mat).
Measurements
Micronaire
• Maturity Index
• UHML – Upper Half Mean Length
• UI – Uniformity Index
• SFI – Short Fiber Index
• Fiber Strength in g/Tex
• Elongation
• Moisture Content
• Color (Reflectance Rd, Yellowness +b) & Color Grade (USDA Upland, Pima, or
regional
customized color chart)
• Trash (% Area, Trash Count) & Trash Grade (USDA)
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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:
100% cotton samples in the form of bale or opened and cleaned material
(card mat).
Measurements

Micronaire (Micro Grams Per Inch)

Measured by relating airflow resistance to the specific surface of fibers.

1 -------------- 3.1 Very fine

3.1 -------------- 3.9 fine
4.0 -------------- 4.9 medium
Above 6 Coarser

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:
100% cotton samples in the form of bale or opened and cleaned material
(card mat).
Measurements

• Maturity Index
The cotton fibre consists of cell wall and lumen. The maturity index is
dependent upon the thickness of this cell wall.
COTTON Fiber Cross-Section
cotton=15000/ Ne x Mic

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:

• Maturity Index

Maturity Lumen Width / Wall

( Maturity Coefficient) Thickness
Mature(less 0.7) Less than 1
Half Mature (0.7 to 0.9) Less than 2 More than
1

Immature (0.9 above) More than 2

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:

• UHML – Upper Half Mean Length

Fiber length is described as "the average length of the longer one-half of the
fibers (upper half mean length)" This measure is taken by scanning a "beard "
of parallel fibers through a sensing region. The beard is formed from the fibers
taken from the sample, clasped in a holding clamp and combed to align the
fibers. Typical lengths of Upland cottons might range from 0.79 to 1.36in.

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:

• UHML – Upper Half Mean Length

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Quality Of Textile RAW MATERIAL
TEXTILE Fiber Testing:

• UI – Uniformity Index
Length uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as " a ratio between
the mean length and the upper half mean length of the fibers and is
expressed as a percentage“
with the Fibrogram. The span lengths at given percentages of fibres are
usually measured; the 2.5% span length is considered to correlate with
the classer's staple length. From the 50% span length and the 2.5% span
length.
LENGTH UNIFORMITY
a uniformity index can be calculated: UNIFORMITY INDEX [%]
Very High >85
High 83-85
Intermediate 80-82
Low 77-79
Very Low <77

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QUALITY OF BLOW-ROOM

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2-BLOW-ROOM Processes
OBJECTIVES OF BLOW-ROOM
 Opening
 Cleaning
 Blending
 Mixing
Cleaning eff = (trash in – trash in lap) x 100
Trash in raw cotton
Count = wt/lenth => like 0.0013 for 14 oz/yd

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2-BLOW-ROOM Processes

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3-CARDING Processes

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3-CARDING Processes

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3-CARDING Processes
Cleaning Efficiency
Sliver Count variation
Neps (small knots or tangled fiber)

Fiber Hooks
According to an investigation by Morton
and Yen in Manchester, it can be
assumed that of the fibres in the web:
more than 50% have trailing hooks
about 15% have leading hooks
about 15% have double hooks
and less than 20% of the fibres have no
hooks. Such fibre hooks, which
effectively convert longer fibres to short
fibres, cannot be permitted in the yarn.
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3-CARDING Processes
Reversal of the dispositions of hooks between the card and the comber.
C, card; D, sliver lap machine; E, ribbon lap machine; F, comber.

Reversal of the dispositions of hooks between the card and the ring spinning machine.
H, roving frame

C, card;
GI, drawframe GIl, drawframe II R, ring spinning machine
H, roving frame 22
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DRAWING PROCESSES

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4- Drawing Frame
Drawing is an operation by which slivers are blended,
doubled or leveled and by drafting reduced to proper sized
sliver suitable of being fed to the simplex.
Draw frame contributes less than 5% to the production cost
of yam, however its influence on quality of yam. is significant.
Draw frame process considerably influences the final
product, as draw is last point of compensation for the
elimination of errors produced by subsequent m/c.

IMPROVING EVENNESS

PARALLELIZATION

BLENDING

DUST REMOVAL

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5- Drawing Finisher Frame

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A roving is a continuous fibrous strand drafted from a sliver
and given cohesion by either inserting a small amount of twist
or compacting the fibers with an oscillating apron. It is drafted
and twisted to be spun into a yarn

FL-16,
FL-100
DRAFT RANGE = 7 TO 8

6- ROVING FRAME

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6- ROVING FRAME
.

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The ring spinning frame, commonly called the ring, is the conventional
spinning system and it transforms the roving from the roving frame
into spun yarn using the operations of:
. Drawing
. Twisting
. Winding

7- RING FRAME

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 7- RING FRAME
Deviation of Variation of
count strength

Count variation Elongation

Twist variation Remaining

disturbing thick
and thin places

Direction of yarnRemaining
twist foreign fibers

Evenness
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7- RING FRAME

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