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Quick Approach To Making A Mold From Strad Posters - Revise

This document provides instructions for making a mold of a violin from a poster: 1. Create a half-outline template of the violin by cutting out a printed poster image and gluing it to plywood. 2. Cut the plywood template to the violin outline using a bandsaw and sander. Reduce the outline by 3.5mm to create space for ribs. 3. Attach the template to two pieces of plywood to create the two-piece mold, then cut and drill the mold pieces.

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544 views2 pages

Quick Approach To Making A Mold From Strad Posters - Revise

This document provides instructions for making a mold of a violin from a poster: 1. Create a half-outline template of the violin by cutting out a printed poster image and gluing it to plywood. 2. Cut the plywood template to the violin outline using a bandsaw and sander. Reduce the outline by 3.5mm to create space for ribs. 3. Attach the template to two pieces of plywood to create the two-piece mold, then cut and drill the mold pieces.

Uploaded by

ponbohacop
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Quick Method of Making a Mold from Strad Posters

1. Find a suitable poster (i.e. Canone ) and


establish the center line. I usually
choose the bass side of the back as my
template. Use a photocopy enlargement
to establish the “right” size. (i.e. 352
mm) and use a 11” x17” printout and
cut out the best half-outline.

2. Use spray adhesive to glue the half-


outline to 1/8” plywood base.

3. Now cut out your plywood template to the outer outline of the violin on a bandsaw and
finish the oscillating sander to the exact outline of the violin.

4. Set your compass to the given


overhang plus rib thickness given in
the Strad plans or to the “average” of
around 3.5 mm to reduce the outline
of the body form. (This is a Cremonese
photocopy)

5. The corners must be shortened otherwise they will end up being too long. I usually
shorten them by 2 mm and hand draw the points. Now cut or sand your template to
this new outline.

6. Use two sided tape to attach two pieces of Baltic plywood 370 mm by 110 mm by 12
mm ( ½” thick)

7. Again use double sided tape to attach


this template to the Baltic plywood
and make sure the bottom edges are
properly aligned. Rough cut to the
approx outline of the template. (This is a
Titian photocopy)
8. Finish with straight cut top ball bearing
trim bit using the smooth upper template as
a guide.

9. Drill the alignment pin holes in upper and lower bouts 3/32" which is a common size
used for nails. Mark the all block locations and drill small pilot holes at the corners to
transfer the pattern to the ½" mold.

10. Cut out all the block locations using the


small drill holes as guides. Then separate
the two halves with a thin scraper. The two
symmetric halves are glued together with
upper and lower cross braces which form
part of the template pattern for the upper and
lower blocks.

Top block 50 x 15
11. For end blocks I use straight grain willow or Bottom block 45 x 12
spruce pre-cut to width of ~21 x 51 mm and Top corner block 25 x 13
for corner blocks I use diagonal grain willow Bottom corner block 25 x 15
Overhang – C bouts 2.5
pre-cut to a width of ~16 x 26 mm. Overhang – Upper and Lower bouts 2.5
Overhang – End of corners 2-3
12. Dimensions of the Blocks and Ribs. Currently Width of corners 7
Rib thickness 1 - 1.2
I am using a longer but thinner bottom block to Height of bottom block 32
giver more support for the chinrest. Height of bottom corner 31.5 - 32
Height of top corner 31-32
Height of top block 30

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