Explaining Textiles

Presentation on Woven Fabric & Related

Process
 Content
•What is Textile?
•Basic Elements of Textile with Process Flow path
•Textile Fiber
• Yarn Manufacturing Process
•Woven Fabric Manufacturing Process
• Wet Processing Technology
•Dyeing & its objects. Theory of Dyeing
•Name of Dyes used for fabric dyeing
•Brief discussion on Reactive Dye, Disperse Dye & Pigment
•Textile Printing & Textile Finishing
•4-Point Inspection System
•List of fabric defects in woven fabric
•Fabric Design & Structure
•Textile Testing with Parameters
•VF Sportswear Coalition Fabric work process description with other
details.
Textile :
A textile was originally from a woven
fabric. But the terms textile & the plural
textiles are now also applied to fibers,
filaments & yarns. Natural & manufactured
and most of the products for which these
are a principal raw material.
Fiber:
Fiber has been defined by the textile institute as units of matter by
flexibility, fineness & high ratio of length to thick.
Length: Width = 1000:1

Classification of Fiber:
Fiber

Natural Fiber Man Made Fiber

Cotton Silk Wool Hair Etc Polyester NylonViscose GlassTencel Lycra Etc
Chemical Composition of Cotton:
Cellulose : 80-90%
Water : 5-7%
Waxes & Fats : 0.5-1%
Protein & Pectin : 3-5%
Ash : 1-1.8%

General Characteristics of Cotton:

Comfortable & Soft Hand.
Good Absorbency.
Color Retention.
Good Strength.
Drapes Well.
Easy to Handle & Sew.

End Use of Cotton:

Apparel: Wide range of wearing apparels like Shirts, Pants, Children’s Wear, Active
Wear, Swimwear, Suits, Jackets, Skirts, Sweaters, Hosiery etc.

Home Fashions: Use in Curtains, Draperies, Bed sheets, Bed covers, Towels, Table
Cloths, Napkins etc.
 Jute Flax Hemp Ramie Manila

Sisal Kapok Wool Alpaca Camel

Cashmere Silk Llama Mohair Asbestos

Viscose Rayon Cellulose Acetate Acrylic

Nylon Fibre Azlon Fibre Glass Fibre

Spinning :
Spinning is a major part of the textile industry. It is
part of the textile manufacturing process where fiber
are converted into yarn, then fabrics.

Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out strands

of fibers to form yarn, though it is colloquially used to
describe the process of drawing out, inserting the
twist, and winding onto bobbins.

This is discussed under as Yarn manufacturing

Technology.
Yarn:
Yarn have been defined a product of substantial length
& relatively small cross-section consisting of fiber or
filament with or without twist.

Classification of Yarn:
Yarn may be classified on the basis of structure –
1. Single Yarn
2. Multi Folded Yarn
3. Cabled Yarn
4. Complex Yarn
5. Fancy Yarn
Flow Chart of Yarn:
Process flow chart for Carded/Combed (Ring) yarn:
Raw Cotton

Mixing

Blow Room

Pre Comber draw Frame

Lap former

Comber

First draw frame

Finisher draw Frame

Simplex

Ring

Winding

Conditioning

Packing
Process flow chart for Open End (OE) yarn:

Raw Cotton

Mixing

Blow Room

Carding

Open End

Packing
Process flow chart for Polyester/Nylon/Polypropylene/Lycra yarn:

Hopper

Melted

Melting Pump

Filter

Spinneret

Coverage guide

Spin finish

Traversing Guide

Wounded Up
Raw Cotton Blowroom Chute

Carded Sliver
Chute Carding

Carded Sliver Drawframe Drawn Sliver

 Drawn Sliver Simplex Roving

Roving Ring Frame Yarn Over Bobbin

Yarn Over Bobbin Winding Yarn Cone

Main Properties of Yarn:
Average Count
TPI ( Twist per inch)
Yarn Evenness(Um)
Thin Places (+/- 50%)
Thick Places (+/- 50%)
Naps (+/- 200%)
Hairiness
Tenacity(CN/Tex)
Count Strength Product(C.S.P)
Etc
Trade Name of Polyester:
Country Trade Name
UK Terylene
USA Dacron
USA Fortrel
Japan Tetron
Japan Trevia
Trade Name of Spandex:
Country Trade Name
Dupont Lycra
Japan Royca
Taiwan Ceoro
Taiwan Acelan
China Texlon
Singapur Investa
Yarn Count Calculation:
Yarn Count:
Yarn count have been defined a numerical expression
which defines its fineness. It is also called as yarn
number or linear density.
Example: 30’s, 40’s, Tex105 Etc

Classification of Yarn Count : There are two types of

count–
Indirect system: English (Cotton), French (Cotton),
Metric, Liner, Worsted & Woolen.
Direct system: Silk-Nylon, Jute-Hemp, Tex &
Denier.
Indirect System:
It has been defined as the number of units of length per unit weight of a yarn. In this
case, higher the count, finer the yarn.

This system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted Etc.

L×w
Indirect, Ne =
W×l
Where, N = Yarn numbering system, L = Sample length, W = Sample weight, w = unit
weight, l = unit weight.

Example: If the weight of 500 meters of yarn in 100 grams, calculate the yarn count in
English system.
Solution:
L×w 5000×1Ibs
Ne = 
W×l 100×840Yds
5000  453.60
  29.527  30 'S
100  840  0.9144
Where, w = 453.60 gms & l = 840 Yds (Fixed)
Direct System:
It has been defined as the number of units of weight per unit length of a yarn. In this
case, higher the count, coarser the yarn.

This system is generally used for Silk, Nylon, and Jute Etc.

W×l
Direct, Tex=
L×w
Where, Tex = Yarn numbering system, L = Sample length, W = Sample weight, w =
unit weight, l = unit weight.

Example: If the weight of 500 meters of yarn in 100 grams, calculate the yarn count in
Tex system.
Solution:

W×l 100×1km
Direct, Tex= 
L×w 5000×1gm
100 1000
  20
5000 1
Where, l = 1000m & w = 1 gms
Conversion of Count From one Count to Another :

590.50
Ne =
Tex
Fabric Design & Structure:
Fabric Design & Fabric Structure are related to each other. As we know
woven fabric is produced by interlacement of warp & weft yarn. This
interlacement of yarn is done by following a pattern, which gives the
fabric a particular design.

On the other hand, beside design of woven fabric few other parameters
like count of warp yarn & weft yarn, number of warp yarn per inch,
number of weft yarn per inch are responsible to establish structure of
woven fabric.

So we can say that the pattern of warp & weft yarn interlacement in
weaving and necessary parameters related to count & construction of
fabric can be defined as Fabric Design & Structure.
Fabric:
Fabric have been defined as a flexible planar
substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns or
fabrics in any combination. Textile fabrics can be
produced directly from webs of fibers by bonding,
fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics &
felts but their physical properties tend to restrict their
potential end usage.
Process Flow Chart of Woven Fabric:

Yarn from spinning

Cone Winding

Warping

Sizing

Drawing

Weaving Loom

Grey Inspection

Folding/Rolling

Store
 Yarn Cone Creeling Warping Warp Beam

Warp Beam Sizing Weavers Beam

Looming
Weavers Beam Drawing in Denting

Looming Weaving Grey fabric ready

for processing
Rapier Loom Air Jet Loom

Water Jet Loom Projectile Loom

Classification of fabric: Based on fabric type there are 4 types of fabric
–
1. Woven Fabric: Woven fabric have been defined as the
interlacing/interlacement of warp & weft yarn where minimum two
set of yarn is needed and warp yarn stay in vertical & parallel to the
selvedge.

2. Knitting fabric: Knitted fabric have been defined as the

interloping/interlocking/intermeshing of warp yarn where minimum
one set of yarn is needed.

3. Nonwoven fabric: Nonwoven fabric have been defined as the

mechanical/chemical/thermal bonding to make non woven fabric.

4. Braided fabric: Braided fabric have been defined as the

intertwining/diagonal/interlacement to make braided fabric where
minimum three set of yarn is needed.
Based on construction: There are three types of fabric

1. Plain
2. Twill
3. Sateen

Plain Weave:
Plain weave formed by yarns at right angles passing
alternately over and under each other. This is the simplest of
the three basic weaves & also least expensive to produce. No
technical face or back unless printed in plain weave fabric.
General Characteristics of Plain Weave :
Smallest design repeat is 2x2.
Only 2 held frames in loom can produce plain weave fabric.
Fabric structure is compact compare to other weaves.
Both sides appearance of fabric remain same in this weave.
Used in light weight, medium weight & heavy weight fabrics without
any problem.
This design can be expressed by 1up & 1down sign in technical field.

End Use: Dress, coat, suit, lace, sports, blankets, etc

Trade name of Plain fabric:

Poplin
Sheeting
Shirting
Voile
Cambric
Classification of Plain weave:

According to cover factor/Compactness:

Approximately square cloth:
Warp count = weft count
Thread density equal i.e EPI = PPI
Warp faces & weft faces are equal on both sides of the cloth
Warp crimp = weft crimp
Warp cover factor = weft cover factor

100×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×30
End use: Cheese cloth, surgical dressing, etc.
Warp face cloth:
Prominence of warp yarn is more than that of weft yarn
Finer warp yarn but coarser weft yarn
Warp crimp > weft crimp
Production cost of this fabric is less than weft face cloth
120×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
60×30
End Use: Denim, Gabardine, etc

Weft face cloth:

Prominence of weft yarn is more than that of warp yarn
Finer weft yarn but coarser warp yarn
Weft crimp > warp crimp
Production cost of this fabric is high
100×120
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×60
End Use: Cotton firebrick, cotton casement cloth, etc
According to alternatively:
Balance cloth:
Warp count = weft count
EPI = PPI
Warp faces & weft faces are equal on both sides of the fabric
100×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×30
Unbalance cloth:
EPI = PPI
Warp count ≠ weft count
100×100
FabricSpecification= ×45"
30×60
EPI ≠ PPI
Warp count = weft count
120×100
Fabric Specification= ×45"
30×30
EPI ≠ PPI
Warp count ≠ weft count
120×100
Fabric Specification= ×45"
60×30
According to derivatives of plain weaves:

Rib Weave:
Rib weave

Warp Rib Weft Rib

Regular Warp Rib Irregular Warp Rib Regular Weft Rib Irregular Weft Rib

Matt Weave:

Matt weaves

Regular Matt Irregular Matt Stitched Matt Fancy matt

 Plain Weave Fabric Warp Rib Fabric(Oxford)

Weft Rib Fabric(Ottoman) Basket Weave Fabric(Boxy)

Twill Weave:
The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp & weft
floats to be formed in the fabric is called twill weave. Twill Fabric has
technical face side & back side. Technical face consist diagonal lines in
Twill fabric.

General Characteristics of Twill Weave:

Smallest design repeat is 3x3.
Only 3 held frame in loom can produce twill weave fabric.
Fabric structure is less compact compare to plain weave fabrics.
Diagonal lines appear on fabric surface.
Both sides appearance of fabric are different in twill weave.
Used in medium weight to heavy weight fabrics mainly for bottoms.
This design can be expressed by 2up 1down, 3up 1down, 2up 2 down
etc sign in technical field.

End Use: Garments, household cloth, industrial cloth, pillow covers,

screens, table cloth, upholstery, bed sheets, towels, pants, overcoats, etc.
Trade name of Twill fabric :
Jean
Gabardine
Denim
Drill

Classification of Twill weaves:

According to the direction of twill line :

S twill: Downward displacement to the interlacing point i.e. twill line is

produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to left side respect to each
weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to right to the left

Example: 3/1 S twill

X X X

X X X

X X X
X X X
Z twill: Upward displacement to the interlacing point i.e. twill line is
produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to right side respect to each
weft yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to left to the right.
Example: 3/1 Z twill
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X

According to the face yarn:

Warp face twill
Weft face twill
Double face twill

According to the nature of twill line:

 Simple twill
 Expended twill
According to the derivatives of twill weaves:
Zigzag/pointed/waved twill
Herring bone twill
Diamond twill
Diaper twill
Broken twill
Rearranged twill
Stepped twill
Elongated twill
Shaded twill
Combined twill
Curved twill

Most popular twill weave derivatives are –

Herringbone Twill
Broken Twill
Diamond Design
Herring bone twill: This twill is produced by reversal of twill direction
at a suitable interval unlike zigzag twill & the changing of direction of
first warp/weft yarn’s floating condition is reversed of the previous yarn
& it is the combination of S & Z twill.
According to reversal to direction, two types of Herring bone twill –

Horizontal Herring bone twill:

Twill direction reverses upon the warp yarn on the principle of
herringbone bone.
No of warp yarn is double to the no. of weft yarn.
Basic continuous twill runs along warp.
Broken draft is found.
Horizontal stripe effect formed in the fabric.
Example: 3/1 Horizontal Herring bone
X X X X

X X X X

X X X X

X X X X
Vertical Herring bone twill:
Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn on the principle of
herringbone bone.
No of weft yarn is double to the no. of warp yarn.
Basic twill runs along weft.
Straight draft is found.
In this fabric vertical stripe effect formed.
Example: 3/1 Vertical Herring bone

X X

X X X

X X X

X X X
X X X

End Use: Suits, coats & ornamented fabric.

Diamond Design:
It is the derivatives of the twill weave
Diamond design is found by the combination of horizontal & vertical zig-zag twill
No of both warp & weft threads are double than that of the base twill in the repeat
In this twill pointed draft is found
The design area is divided into 4 equal parts
It is divided into equal parts both horizontal & vertical axis
Example: 5/3 Diamond design
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X

End Use: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow covers, etc
Broken Twill:
Broken twill is obtained by breaking the twill line of a regular twill
Broken twill is formed by dividing the continuous twill repeat in 2 or 3
or 4 sections
Broken twill can be made 3 either by warp way & weft way
 If the threads are divided in warp way direction, it will result a broken
draft

Example: 3/3 Broken Twill

X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X

End Use: Shirting, Suiting, Designed fabrics, etc

2/1 S-Twill 2/2 Z- Twill

3/1 S-Twill 4/1 Satin S-Twill

Herringbone Twill Diamond Twill

Diaper Twill Broken Twill

Sateen Weave:
In Satin/Sateen weave each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces
with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacing by two or three to the
right or the left. This designed fabric can be produced by simple loom. Fabric
technical face & back look significantly different.

General Characteristics:
Satin represents warp face fabric whereas Sateen represents weft face fabric.
This weave can be regular or irregular.
Regular weave has minimum repeat size of 5x5 & Irregular weave has 4x4.
Only 5 held frame in loom can produce regular satin/sateen weave fabric.
Fabric structure is less compact compare to plain and twill weave fabrics.
Diagonal lines appear on fabric surface but not as prominent as Twill weave.
Fabric surface feels smooth & lustrous as floats are long.
Used in medium weight to heavy weight fabrics mainly for bottoms, suits etc.
This design can be expressed by 4up 1down, 7up 1down, etc sign in technical
field.

End Use: Desks wear, curtain, decorative garments, upholstery, lace, coat,
suiting, ladies dress, etc
Classification of Sateen:

Sateen

Warp Sateen Weft Sateen

Regular Irregular Regular Irregular

Calculation of Woven fabric weight:
Example: If the consumption of a fabric in below & length in 100 meter,
how we can calculate the fabric weight?

110  90
 59"
20 16
Solution :
There are two types of rule for fabric weight calculation. Please see the
blow –
EPI×Crimp% PPI×Crimp%
2
1. OZ/Yd =( + )×0.69
Warp Count Weft Count

EPI×Crimp% PPI×Crimp%
2
2. Gm/m =( + )×23.25
Warp Count Weft Count
How will be deciding the grey Elongation of a fabric from a finish
construction?

Example:
20×16+70D
Finished construction : ×56", where stretch 25%
128×60
Solution:
EPIf ×(1-Seath shrinkage)×(1-Weave take up)
EPIg =
1+Stretch%
128×(1-5%)×(1-4%)  Where,Weave take up=Reed space to grey stretch 
=  Weave take up=3-4% & Steath shrinkage=4-5% 
1+25%  
128×0.95×0.96
=  93
1.25
Denim Fabric Process:
Denim fabric can be developed now a
days in two different techniques. These
are,
1. Slasher Dyeing Method
2. Rope Dyeing Method.
Process Flow path for Slasher Dyeing Process :
Yarn from Spinning

Creeling
Dyeing

Washing

Drying

Sizing

Drying

Leasing

Weavers Beam

Weaving

Inspection

Folding/Rolling
Process Flow path for Rope Dyeing Process:
Yarn from Spinning

Rope finishing by Ball warping

Dyeing
Skying

Drying
Canning

Direct Warping

Sizing
Drying
Leasing
Weavers Beam
Weaving
Inspection
Comparison between Rope & Slasher Dyeing:

SL No. Rope Dyeing Slasher Dyeing

1 Longer Process Shorter Process
2 High production Lee Production
3 Longer Inner size time Shorter Inner time
4 Longer Skying time Shorter Skying time
5 Best Indigo Dyeing Moderate Dyeing
6 Dyeing & Sizing different stage Dyeing & sizing one stage
7 More even Moderate
Bottoming:
Bottoming have been defined as sulphur dyeing is bottoming
& Indigo dyeing is topping.

Topping:
Topping have been defined as sulphur dyeing is topping &
Indigo dyeing is bottoming.

Bottoming & Topping:

Bottoming & Topping are related directly to sulphur dye
where dyeing combined with sulphur & Indigo.
Process Flow path for Bottoming: Process Flow path for Topping:

Sulphur Dyeing Indigo Dyeing

Washing Washing

Indigo Dyeing Sulphur Dyeing

Washing Washing

Oxidation Oxidation

Washing Washing
Oxidation of Dyed Yarn:
By skying of dyed yarn after each dip.
Normally skying time 60 to 90 second.
When yarn goes lighter to darker it means oxidation is complete.
Skying time does not make oxidation completely & that is why it is
preferable after skying oxidation by oxidizing agent.

Causes of Incomplete Oxidation:

Inadequate skying time.
Overcrowding of yarn the width of range.
Excess dyes pick up.
Low air movement.
High humidity.
Uneven dye pick up.
Imbalance chemical.
Less chemical oxidation or less washes off by water.
∆E: ∆E is the color deference from standard to sample. Maximum value
of ∆E will be 1.
+L

If ∆E ≤1 then result is OK +b
If ∆E ≥1 then result is not OK
-a +a
Factor Related with ∆E:
-b

-L

∆L=+means lighter = Next to reduce the lighter.

∆L=-means Darker = Next to increase the lighter.
∆a=+means Redder = Next to reduce the redder.
∆a=-means Greener(Less red) = Next to increase the redder.
∆b=+means Yellowish = Next to reduce the yellow.
∆b=-means Bluish = Next to reduce the Blue.
Relation among ∆L, ∆a & ∆b :

ΔE= (ΔL) +(Δa) +(Δb)

2 2 2

Calculation value of ∆E (V10101-1):

If value of ∆L=0.01, ∆a=-0.41 & ∆b=-0.43,then ∆E value-

ΔE= (ΔL)2 +(Δa)2 +(Δb)2

= (0.01) 2 +(-0.41) 2 +(-0.43) 2
=0.56
Standard light source:
1.Day light, D-65, D-95
2.Shop light, TL-83, TL-84
3.A Light target
4.Cool White Flurscent, CWF

Note: Mainly we are using D-65 & CWF in textile sector.

Color: Color is the reflection of light. Higher the wave length, higher the
reflection.
Black = Reflection is very less
White = Reflection is very high
Violet = Minimum wave length
Red = Maximum wave length

Color Vision Factor: There are two types-

1.Human color vision factor
2.Computer color vision factor
Human color vision factor:
1.Sex – Male & Female
2.Height – Maximum, minimum & medium
3.Angle of viewing - 0º, 45º, 60º, 90º, 180º, 270º, 360º
4.Condition of viewing – Natural color, Grey color & Reflection color
5.Relative Humidity & Temperature – RH=65% & Temperature 21±1 º
6.Condition of eyes – Good or excellent
7.Sample size

Computer color vision Factor:

1.Equation – CMC method (Color measuring comity)
2.Observing angle - 0º, 45º, 60º, 90º, 180º, 270º, 360º
3.Measuring area – 30 mm or small size
4.Measurement – for plane 2 reading (0º, 90º) & for twill 4 reading (0º, 90º,
180º & 270º)
5.Sample size
6.Folding of sample
7.Fabric structure
8.Calibrations of machine
Metamerism : When two color objects look alike under one viewing condition
but look different under another viewing condition, we say that metamerism
taking.

Classification of metamerism : There are 5 types of metamerism –

Illumination metamerism : When the color of two space match under one
illumination but does not match in another, then it is called illumination
metamerism.
Observer metamerism : When the color of two space match under one
observer but does not match in another, then it is called observer metamerism.
Geometric metamerism : When the color of two space match under one set of
viewing condition, but does not match if we change the geometrics such as
illuminant & viewing, then it is called geometric metamerism.
Field size metamerism : When the color of two space match under one place
of visual distance viewing but does not match when change the visual distance
of field or distance of viewing, then it is called field size metamerism.
Instrumental metamerism : When the color of two space match under one set
of instrument but does not match under other set of instrument, then it is called
instrument metamerism.
Textile testing is a process by which different quality parameter of a
particular textile product can be tested in laboratory to ensure the
required quality of that finished goods. Mainly there are four objectives
of textile testing,

Ensuring quality conformance of product.

Checking quality of final products in terms of performance & safety.
Improving manufacturing process in a cost effective manner.
Ensuring customer satisfaction

There are different testing equipments available in texting laboratory by

which textile products can be tested. For testing of goods, there are
various methods available also. These are like ,
-AATCC Method(American Association of Textile Chemists &
Colorists)
-ASTM Method(American Society for Testing and Materials)
-ISO Method(International Organization for Standardization)
 Testing Parameters of Woven fabric:
There are few physical and chemical parameters available for which woven fabrics are
tested in testing laboratory after processing.
Below all testing parameters are mentioned sequentially along with test methods:
Parameters Requirement
Fiber Content (ISO1833/5088) According to fabrication
Fabric Weight (ASTM D 3776) According to count, construction.
Fabric Shrinkage (AATCC 135, 3 washes) 0 to -4%
Distortion after washing (AATCC 179, 3 washes) 4%
Appearance after washing Satisfactory (Based on observation)
PH Value (ISO 3071) 4-7.5
Tensile Strength (ASTM D5034) Depends on fabric wt, 20-50lbs.
Tearing Strength (ASTM D1424) Depends on fabric wt, 1.5-3lbs.
Color Fastness to Crocking (AATCC 8) Dry>3.5, Wet>3.0
Color Fastness to Light (AATCC 16E 20 AFU) 3.5
Color Fastness to Washing (AATCC 61 IIA) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3
Color Fastness to Water (AATCC 107) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3
Color Fastness to Perspiration (AATCC 15) Color Change>4, Color Stain>3
Pilling Resistance [After 3 HW] (ASTM D3512, 30 min) 3.5
Stretch & Recovery [For Stretch Fabric only] (ASTM D3107) 15% Stretch, 8% Growth
Draft Recommendation:
Draft recommendation should be as minimum as possible-

Denier Draft
20D 2.8
44D 3.5
70D 3.8
140D 4
How to calculate Spandex from a fabric?

20 16+70D
Example=
128  60
Solution:
Spandex in Yarn:
5315
Weft Denier= =332.19 (Cotton  Tex=590.50  9=5315)
16
70
Spandex in yarn= ×100%
Weft Denier×Draft
70
= ×100% (70D=3.50 Draft)
332.50×3.50
70
= ×100%=6%
332.50×3.50
Spandex in Fabric:
Warp(EPI)+Weft(PPI)=128+60=188
60
In Weft(PPI)= 100%  31.91%
188
Weft(PPI)%  Spandex in Yarn%
Spandex in Fabric=
100%
31.91%  6%
=  1.90%  2%
100%
Shrinkage test(AATCC-179/1):
Procedure:
At first we need to take 50 cm squire a fabric cutting.
Then need to over lock sewing this fabric.
After that need to do 3 wash under 60ºC for woven with or without
chemical.
Then relaxation for 2-3 hours.

Before wash-After wash

Warp Shrinkage= 100%
Before wash
50-48
= 100%  4%
50

Before wash-After wash

Weft Shrinkage= 100%
Before wash
50-47
= 100%  6%
50
Fabric PH Testing (ENISO-0371):

Procedure:
At first we need to take 2gm fabric & 100ml distill water.
Then need to keep this cutting sample & water in a Biker.
 Then agitated 2 hours
After that half hours relaxation then fabric PH calculation.
How you will test Stretch, Growth & Recovery?
Procedure of Stretch (ASTM-3107-03):
Take a sample 25 X 5 cm (Length = Spandex Direction).
Mount this saple in the machine.
Apply 4 pound (Ibs) load in bottom ends & keep is for 30 minutes.

Extended Length-Original Length

Stretchability Will be= 100%
Original Length
31-25 6
= 100%  100%  24%
25 25
Procedure of Growth (ASTM-3107-03):
1.After 30 minutes remove the sample from the machine.
2.Keep it relaxation for 30 minutes under temperature 21±2ºC & Relative
Humidity 65±2%.
Relaxation Length-Original Length
Growth Will be= 100%
Original Length
26-25 1
= 100%  100%  4%
25 25

Procedure of Recovery (ASTM-3107-03):

Extended Length-Relaxation Length

Recovery Will be= 100%
Extended Length  Original Length
31-26 5
= 100%  100%  83%
31  25 6
Fastness of Dyed Goods:
The capacity of a dye on a textile material to resist (After dyeing) a load
or a destructive factor is referred to a fastness. The outstanding property
of a dyed textile material is the fastness of shade.

The following fastness are important for dyed goods:

•Color fastness to wash
•Color fastness to light
•Color fastness to rubbing (Dry +Wet)
•Color fastness to perspiration (Acidic & alkaline)
•Color fastness to acids
•Color fastness to chlorine
•Color fastness to alkaline
•Color fastness to sea water
•Color fastness to weather
•Color fastness to bleaching agents
•Etc.
Assessment of Fastness:
Light fastness in Wash fastness in Grey
Numerical Rating
Blue scale scale

1 Poor Poor/Little
2 Slight Moderate
3 Moderate Average
4 Fair Good
5 Good Excellent
6 Very Good
7 Excellent
8 Maximum
Color fastness to wash:
Color fastness to wash is very important for lap dip. There are varieties of testing procedure,
because –
1.Washing conditions may very from one country to another
2.The methods depend on the use of dyed goods
3.To evaluate repeated washing accelerated test methods are used.
Principle:
A specimen (Lab dip) in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabric is laundered, rinsed
& dried. The specimen/composite sample is treated under appropriate condition in a
chemical bath for short time. The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a liquor ratio
& an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color of the specimen (Dyed sample)
& the staining of the adjacent fabric is assessed by recommended Grey scales (1-5).
Apparatus & Materials:
1.Wash wheel with a thermostatically controlled water bath & rating speed of (40±2) rmp
2.Stainless steel container (Capacity 55±50 ml)
3.Stainless steel ball (Dia=0.6 cm & weight=1 gm)
4.Multi fiber fabric (Acetate/Cotton/Nylon/Polyester/Acrylic/Wool)
5.Thermometer
6.Sewing machine
7.Dryer
8.Color matching cabinet
9.ISO Scales
Reagents:
1.Reference detergent
2.Sodium carbonate/Soda ash
3.Distilled Water (Grade – 3)
4.Etc
Test Specimen:
Cut a sample of dyed goods 10 X 4 cm & sew it with same size multifiber. This is the
composite test sample.
Test Procedure (ISO recommendation No. 1 – 5):
Composite sample is treated in a wash wheel for 30 minutes at (40 ±2) ºC with 5 g/l
standard soap.
Specimen

Steel Ball
Adjacent fabric
Dia=0.6cm & wt=1gm
10 X 4 cm

Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrlic Wool

Multifibre fabric (ISO)

Evaluation: Compare the contrast between the treated & untreated
sample with grey scale for changing color of dyed sample & staining of
adjacent fabric in a color matching cabinet.
Reporting Format:

Test Description (Color fastness to wash (ISO-105- Result

CO3) (Grade)
Color change in shade staining in Acetate 4
Color change in shade staining in Cotton 4
Color change in shade staining in Nylon 4
Color change in shade staining in Polyester 5-Apr
Color change in shade staining in Acrylic 5-Apr
Color change in shade staining in Wool 4
Color fastness to light:

Principal: This test measures the resistance to fading of dyed textile

when exposed to day-light. Then test sample is exposed to light for a
certain time (24 hrs, 36 hrs, 48 hrs, 72 hrs…….) or by customer demand
& compare the change with original unexposed sample. The changes are
assessed by Blue scales (1 – 8).

Procedure:
The sample is cut & should be exposed (1/2 covered & ½ exposed)
together with standard dyed wool samples (1 – 8). The standard & the
specimen mounted in a frame. The composite sample must be protected
from rain.

Evaluation:
Evaluation is made numerically by European/American blue scale (1 –
8).
Color fastness to Rubbing:
Principal: This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be
transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specific test cloth for rubbing (Dry
+ Wet).
Equipment:
1.Crock meter
2.Cotton rubbing cotton
3.Grey scale
4.Stop watch
5.Color matching cabinet.
Size of fabric: 14 X 5 cm two pieces of sample (One warp direction/Wale direction &
other weft/course direction).
Test procedure:
1.Lock the test specimen onto the base of the crock meter.
2.Using the spiral spring clip, set 5 X 5 cm of the white cotton fabric to the finger of the
crock meter.
3.Lower the covered finger on the test sample.
4.Turn hand crank at the rate of one turn per second (10 X 10 Sec).
5.Remove the white rubbing test cloth & evaluate with grey scale.
Evaluation:
Compare the contrast between the treated & untreated white rubbing cloth with grey
scale & rated 1 – 5.
Color fastness to Perspiration:
Principal: The garment which comes into contact with the body where
perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is
intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action
of acidic & alkaline perspiration.

Equipment:
1.Perspiration tester
2.Oven, maintain at (37 ±2)ºC temperature
3.Multi fiber test fabric
4.Grey scale
5.Color matching chamber
6.Acidic & alkaline solution
7.Glass & acrylic plate
8.Weight

Sample size: 10 X 4 cm
Reagent:
Materials Alkaline Acidic
L-histadine mono hydrochloric hydrate (C6H4O2N3HCl.H2O 0.5 gm 0.5 gm
Sodium chloride (NaCl) 5 gm 5 gm

Disodium hydrogen ortho phosphate dihydrate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) 2.5 gm 2.2 gm

Distilled water 1000 CC 1000 CC

PH (Adjust with 0.1 N NaOH) PH=8 PH=5.5
Test Procedure:
Wet out the composite test sample in mentioned alkaline or acidic solution at room
temperature. M:L ratio 1:50 & leave for 30 minutes.
Pour off excess solution & place the composite sample between two glass plate or
acrylic plate under a pressure of 4.5 Kg & place in an oven for 4 hrs at (37 ±2)ºC
temperature.
Remove the specimen & hang to dry in warm air not exceeding 60ºC temperature.

Evaluation:
Evaluation is done by grey scale in a color matching cabinet & rated from 1 – 5.
Pilling: Pilling is a process of forming small angles of fibers.
ICI (Imperial Chemical Index) Pilling test for knit fabric:
Block Diagram:
•Sample : 5 X 5”
•Rubber tube : 6” long & 1.25” outer diameter
•Box size : 9 X 9 X 9”
•Box inside : 1/8” Cork
•Revolution : 60 rpm
•Time : 5 hrs
Working Procedure:
At first sample (5 x 5”) is taken & sewn it.
Then it placed on to rubber tube (6” long & 1.25” outer diameter X 0.125”
thick).
To cut ends are covered by tape.
Four tubes are placed into the box (X 9 X 9”).
Cork fabric (0.125”) is placed inside the surface of the box. Then box is
rotted
with 60 rpm for 5 hurs, which creases the pilling on the surface of the fabric.
After 1 hrs tumbling sample is compare with the standard fabric.
Then examined it visually.
Five Pilling rating are found:

Test found Grade

Become hairy but no pilling 1

Become hairy & slight pilling 2

Become hairy & moderate pilling 3

Become hairy & unacceptable pilling 4

Become hairy & external pilling 5

Strength: It is the resistance to deformation or breakage caused by application of force.
It is the most important properties of yarn & fabric.

Tensile strength testing:

One of the most common testing methods tensile testing is used to determine the
behavior of a sample while an axial stretching load is applied. This types of tests may
be performed under ambient or controlled eating or cooling conditions to determine the
tensile properties of a textile material. Tensile testing is commonly used to determine
the maximum load. Tensile testing may be based on a load value or elongation value.

Common tensile testing results include:

•Maximum load
•Deflection of maximum load
•Work at maximum load
•Stiffness
•Load at break
•Deflection at break
•Work at break
•Stress
•Strain
Manual fabric strength tester:
Block diagram:
•Switch On & Off
•Vertical stand
•Dial
•Fixed clamp
•Movable claim
•Fabric

Working Procedure:
•At first fabric is set between the clamps where upper clamp is fixed &
lower clamp is movable.
•Then swatch is on & movable clamp moves downwards.
•So that fabric is broken due to tension on the fabric.
•The strength is measured from the dial of the tester.
•After measuring the strength switch is green to off.
Tear Strength tester:

The tearing strength tester consists of a sector pendulum pivoted on anti-

friction ball bearings on a vertical bracket fixed on a rigid metallic base.
The test specimen in shape of a rectangular piece is held between two
clamps, one of which is mounted on the pendulum & other is mounted
on the fixed bracket.

The clamps are mounted in such a manner that their holding faces are
aligned with each other when the pendulum is locked in its raised
position.

The tearing strength is indicated on a scale fitted on the pendulum

against a low friction pointer pivoted on the axis of the pendulum.
Fabric Dimension:
1.Length/Width measurement
2.Weight /unit length measurement
3.Fabric thickness measurement
4.Fabric inspection measurement
Fabric inspection:
This system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This
test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation
for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection.

This system provides a means of defining defects according to their

severity by assigning demerit point values. All type of fabrics whether
grey or finished, can be graded by this system.

Fabric inspection method :

1. 4 – point system
2.10 – point system
4 – Point system (Used for Knit fabric):
Defect Length Points
Up to 3" 1
3" to 6" 2
6 to 9" 3
Above 9" 4

For Example: For 100 yds inspection

Defect Length Points No. od Faults No. of Points
Up to 3" 1 10 10 X 1=10
3" to 6" 2 5 5 X 2=10
6 to 9" 3 2 2 X 3=6
Above 9" 4 0 0 X 4=0
Total=26

**Total No. of point must be less than 40 per 100 Sq yds.

10 – Point system (Used for Woven fabric):

Warp Way Points Weft Way

<1" 1 <1"
1" to <5" 3 1" to <5"
5" to <10" 5 5" to <half width
>10" 10 >half width

For export quality material:

Good: Total point <20 point per 100 Sq meter

Average: Total point 20 to 30 point per 100 Sq meters
Poor: Total point >30 point per 100 Sq meter
Weight/Unit area measurement:

Instrument: Quadrant Balance

Block Diagram:
1.Quadrant scale
2.Stand
3.Pointer
4.Template
5.Sample holder
6.Base

Working Procedure:
At first sample (2” long X 1” width) is measured by using template &
it is placed on the sample holder.
The weight is then measured directly from the quadrant scale on which
pointed fixed according to the sample.
Result should be taken Ibs/100 Sq yds.
GSM measurement for knit & woven fabric:
Instrument: GSM cutter or Rounded cutter
Block Diagram:
1.Table
2.Rubber pad
3.Fabric
4.Head
5.Turning wheel
6.Cutting Blade
Working Procedure:
At first a rubber pad is placed on the table
Then the fabric placed over the rubber pad
Then the round cutter is placed on the fabric & cut the fabric
The cut sample should be circular
The sample area should be 100 cm² (Standard)
Then the weight (in gms) of 100 cm² of samples is measured by
electrical balance
At last GSM is measured (wt in gms/100 cm²X100=GSM)
List of Fabric Defects in Woven Fabric:
A fabric defect is any abnormality in the fabric that hinders it’s acceptability by the consumer.
Woven fabric defects can be raised from yarn defects, weaving defects & finally processing
defects.
Most common defects of woven fabrics are as below –
Yarn/Weaving Fault Processing Fault
Colored Yarn Side to side shade variation
Knots End to end shade variation
Slubs Resist Spots
Thick/Thin Places Uneven Streaks
Broken Ends Dye Stains
Broken Pattern Uneven Dyeing/Running shading
Double End Patchy Dyeing Effect
Hole, Cut or Tear
Missing Ends
Missing Picks
Hanging Loose Threads
Oil or Stain Mark
Oily Ends/Picks
Contamination
Color spot
Hairiness
Horizontal line
Side loose
Colored Yarn:
Presence of colored foreign matter in the fabric, which
comes from yarn.

Causes: Cotton fibers getting contaminated during Ginning

process with leaves, immature fiber and yellow fiber.

Remedies: Colored portion is removed from the yarn with

a pucker.

Knots:
Knot is a fastening made by tying together ends of yarn
when broken.

Causes: Thread breaks during process of winding, warping,

Sizing or weaving.

Remedies: Non mend able. Fabric portion carrying knots

should be avoided during cutting or rejected with cut panels.
Slub:
Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has
a wider diameter compare to normal spun yarn

Causes: Improper Carding/Combing & wrong drafting in

spinning Process.
Remedies: Slub should be cut with the clipper from both
ends.

Broken Ends woven in a bunch:

This defect is caused by a bunch of broken ends woven into
fabric.

Causes: Failure of weaver in attending the warp breaks

properly.
Remedies: Broken ends woven in a bunch can be removed
by using a pucker and the resulting loose ends should be cut
with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in
both directions with a metallic comb can fill this up.
Double End:
When two or more ends get woven as one. This defect is
characterized by a thick bar running parallel to the warp.

Causes: Wrong drawing, taking more ends through a held

eye.
Remedies: Can be corrected by pulling out the extra end with
help of needle. A bare patch is formed & can be filled by
combing in both direction with help of metallic comb.

Float:
Float is the improper interlacement of warp & weft threads
over a Certain area.

Causes: Improper sizing that causes ends stick together. It

can be from broken end also if entangled with other ends.

Remedies: Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating

threads are cut with a clipper. Combing in both direction
rectifies the patch.
Gout
This is a foreign matter accidentally woven into the fabric.

Causes: Improper loom cleaning. Dusty/Dirty weaving

environment.

Remedies: Extra foreign matter can be pulled out with a

pucker. Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch.

Hole, Cut, Tear:

This is self explanatory which defines any small/large hole or
cut area
or tear position in the fabric.

Causes: Sharp edges on cloth roll, hard substances between

layer of fabric in cloth roll. Coarse template used for fine
fabrics. This can be raised during removal of hard particles
woven in the cloth.

Remedies: Not possible to do mending. Need to reject from

fabrics or from cut panels.
Missing Ends:
The fabric is characterized by a gap, parallel to the warp. The
number of ends missing may be one or more.
Causes: Loom not equipped with warp stop motion. Drop wires
not working properly which cause stop machine when warp
breaks. Electric bars are dirty or defected that’s why machine not
stopped When drop wire dropped over it.
Remedies: When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the
fault can be rectified by combing in both directions using a
metallic comb. More than 2 ends will be difficult to cover. Fabric
portion needs to be avoided or rejected based on it’s availability
along width of fabric

Missing Picks:
A narrow streak running parallel with weft threads caused due to
absence of weft yarn.

Causes: Faulty let off & take up motion in loom. May be due to
faulty Weft stop motion. If fell of cloth not adjusted after loom
stoppage.
Remedies: When only 2 pick missing then can be rectified by
combing with metallic comb. More than that not possible & need
to be rejected.
Hanged/Untrimmed Loose Threads:
Any hanging threads on the face of the fabrics.

Causes: Tail ends are not trimmed after piecing up.

Remedies: This defect can be easily rectifies by cutting all

hanged yarn by the clipper during grey mending.

Weft Bar:

An unwanted bar, running across the full width of a piece which

differs in appearance from the adjacent normal fabric.

Causes: Different in count, twist, color, luster. Faulty let off

and take up motion of loom

Remedies: Not possible to do mending.

Oil Ends Oil Weft

Oil Spots Reed Mark

There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in Bangladesh by VF Asia. Names
are given below -

Shell Fabric:
Envoy Textiles Ltd
Partex Denim Ltd
Nassa Taiepei Denim Ltd
Mahmud Denim Ltd
Sim Textiles
Opex Textiles
South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd.
Sinha Textile Group.
Hamid Fabrics Ltd.
Paramount Textiles Ltd.
Thermax Yarn Dyed Fabric Mills Ltd.

Pocketing Fabric
 Litun Fabrics Ltd
 Ridwan Textiles Ltd
 Epic Textiles
There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in Pakistan by VF
Asia. Names are given below -

Shell Fabric:
Kassim Textiles Ltd
ADM Fabrics
Artistic Milliners Denim Ltd
Soorty Denim Ltd
Naveena Textiles Ltd
Siddiqsions Textiles Ltd
Kohinoor Textiles Mill Ltd
Master Textile Ltd
Sarena Fabrics Ltd.
There are few nominated fabric suppliers available in India by VF Asia.
Names are given below -

Shell Fabric:
Arvind Textiles Ltd
Mafatlal Fabrics Ltd
Suryalakshmi Denim Ltd
KG-Denim Ltd
Raymond Denim Ltd
BhaskarTextiles Ltd
Nahar Textiles Ltd
Vardhaman Textiles Mill Ltd

Besides some other nominated fabric suppliers available in Thailand,

Serilonka, Indonasia.
Mill Week:
In mill week mill submits their new collections based on current market trend.
Yearly there are two mills weeks, one is on in each June for Fall/Holiday season
& another is in each Jan for Spring/Summer season.

Wash Range:
The selected fabrics in mill weeks input in Fabric Code Generate System
(FCGS) as well as SBU wise Fabric chart with lab test result. For any
modification of color or new color development on a particular fabric item also
done in this stage. Mills submit the selected fabrics sample yardages to BDC to
do wash range & submit to US & HK. BDC is responsible for all non china
mills.

Proto Sampling:
From the submitted wash range US team short listed the fabrics for coming up
season & request for proto which are consider highly potential for coming up
seasons bulk fabric orders.
Fabric Booking:
Fabric booking is released by BDC Merchandiser team to Fabric team
for proto, Pre-line, F&F and bulk standard sample purpose & fabric team
book this sample to Mill. In this sample stage if we get any fabric issue,
we updated all parties. From fabric booking date we need to in-house
within 15 working days for oversees Mill & 7 working day for
Bangladeshi Mill.

Fabric Checking:
After getting each sample yardage for proto we need to check with
master roll, then need to approved swatch.

Lab Test:
Merchandising team give proto wash leg to Fabric team for test purpose
and fabric team send this wash leg to BKK Lab along with pretest
number. If this test result is failed in any parameter then liability of fabric
team.
Update Fabric Price:
We need to update fabric price & cut-table with each month because
validity of fabric price is only one month.

Substitute Wash Range :

We are doing lot of substitute fabric from different mill & need to do
wash range with original fabric and send to US for approval. In the
meantime need to update all details in our system & fabric chart as well
as test result.