ROBOTIC ARM –YOUR FUN ARM

INTRODUCTION

This robotic arm is made up of a structure of acrylic (or wood, mdf or

polycarbonate), a bunch of machine screws and nuts, servo motors (to make it
move) and a controller (to make the servo motors move).

The servo motors and the controller are important to set up before you start the
physical build, that way you'll only have to build it once.

We have this available as a kit over on our website www.hallroad.org or you can
cut your own!
This is an open source material , you can find these designs on me-arm official
website.
 STEP 1: GATHERING COMPONENTS

Components you need

1. Robotic arm parts Laser cut acrylic sheet
2. 4 metal gear servos /4 plastic gear servos
3. Nut x 11
4. 6mm x 7
5. 8mm x 15
6. 10mm x 5
7. 12mm x 8
8. 20mm x 4

If you have bought our DIY laser cut robotic arm kit, then you need not to worry because it contains all the parts to suits
your needs

STEP 2: CALIBRATING THE SERVOS

All you need to do is to move the servo to one direction since it is 0-180-degree motor servos so all the servos are set to
either 180 or 0 degree by default you don’t need Arduino or any controller to calibrate all the servos.
 Let's Go!

STEP 3: BUILDING THE BASE

With your servos calibrated we can get cracking. Literally if you have one of our snap out
packs!

You'll probably have to spend some time taking off the protective backing on the acrylic
pieces. You can either do that as you go or all at once. Your call.

Locate the largest part and attach the sticky pad feet to its corners. Then insert the four
20mm screws from the underside and screw four nuts half way down them.
Now find part your center servo, and two 8mm screws. Thread the servo through part,
which we call a collar. Push the screws through the collar and then screw them into part as
shown.

The screws self-tap into part, this means they cut their own thread. in this there are two
hole sizes one at around 3mm where you can push the screw through and the other at around
2.6mm where we want the screw to self-tap.

Now we attach the servo / collar assembly to base part via the 20mm screws, these will
self-tap and the orientation of the holes on the parts should mean you can't get it the wrong
way around.
STEP 4: LEFT SIDE
Now locate left servo, two 8mm screws, and a servo fixing pack.

Thread the servo through the collar and then the servo cable through the cable tidy hole.
Screw the collar using the 8mm screws being careful not to over tighten. You don't
want the acrylic to bend, just hold the servo in place.

Now attach the servo fixing (the white thing, they're called horns) to the servo arm using
the sharp screws from the servo fixing pack. These will self-tap into the white plastic
servo horn. They can be a bit tricky so please be careful here. If you're building with a
child, then this is on time you'll want to get involved.

Attach the servo fixing to your calibrated servo as shown, it should be parallel with the
longest side of part Using the small machine screw from the servo pack secure it to the
servo but again do not overtighten!
STEP 5: RIGHT SIDE
The parts we want here are: two 8mm screws, a 6mm screw, the right servo, and a servo
fixings pack.

Thread the servo through the collar and the cable through the cable tidy as before attach to
the side plate with the 8mm screws, again being careful not to break the plate by over
tightening.
Attach the white servo horn to the servo arm using the sharp screws as before. Attach this
to the servo with the arm at 90 degrees to the longest side of the side plate.

Finally, in this stage attach this part to the side plate using the 6mm screw.
 STEP 6: BUILD THE MIDDLE

These parts join the left and right sections together. We call them the base and the pig.

For the base find part shown and a servo fixings pack. Carefully noting the orientation
attach the servo horn using the sharp screws. At this stage offer it up to the left side piece
to see if you've got things the right way around.

For the pig find parts shown and a 10mm screw. Screw them together in the order shown,
with the screw coming in from the side and self-tapping. It's important that these move
around the axis (the screw) in a straight path and that they move freely. If they don't move
in a straight path then unscrew, hold them together and screw in again so that they are all
as parallel as they can be.
 STEP 7: LEFT TO MIDDLE

Now we want to start bringing the left and right parts together using the middle parts.

First attach the left assembly to part with a 12mm screw and nut. The easiest way to do this
is to push the 12mm screw through the left assembly and put the nut on half a turn or so.
Put the slot in part over the nut and start to tighten the screw. Do not over tighten.

You should see the slot for the pig on part (the front strut). Place the pig into the slot then
insert the base part into the slots on the left assembly and lever upwards to join the slots on
the pig. Double check the servo horn here, if you've got it upside down you're going to be
really annoyed later.

With the pig in place you can attach a lever, an optional spacer to the servo lever and the
lever on the pig together with a 12mm or 10mm screw depending on whether you need the
spacer. The Doman Servos seen here don't require a spacer but the latest servos we use do.
There are spares in our pack for this purpose.
Now attach the rear strut part using a 12mm screw and nut as on the front strut. It should
slot over the rear of the pig and also the knobble on the base plate. Tighten this but leave a
little slack as the adjustment will come in handy when you're mating the right hand part.
 STEP 8: ATTACH RIGHT

Now we made the right side to our complex assembly, this also involves putting on the
webbing part.

Attach this part to part (on the pig) using a 12mm screw and nut.

Now comes attaching the right side to the rest of the assembly. You can put the 12mm
screws and nuts through the right hand side before you try mating the parts up, or you can
leave them off and put them on afterwards. Here you're trying to get a number of parts in
slots at the same time and it can be tricky

Take your time and be patient please. This step is the trickiest in the whole build. Once
you've done this it gets easier I promise!
 STEP 9: ATTACH TO BASE, ADD LEFT FOREARM

Now we have the lovely Centre assembly complete we can screw it to the base.

This is a matter of mating the servo horn to the Centre servo and securing with a screw.

Now we can add left forearm with the use of two 6mm screws. This will screw onto center
and onto base servo. You should be able to move the servo easily with this new part!
 STEP 10: RIGHT FOREARM

Next we build the right forearm.

The first thing to do is hook part onto the left forearm part that you've just attached and
then onto the right forearm

Attach the triangular part (the bit that's attached to the servo) with a 10mm screw. Don't
over tighten as we need all these parts to move freely.
Attach the back of part to the part as shown attached to the right side pate, use a 10mm
screw and a spacer in between.

Then attach the final part to the inside front of part with a 6mm screw.

STEP 11: BUILD THE CLAW!

Thread the servo through the remaining collar. Insert parts into the side slots made by the
servo and part then using part secure them with four 8mm nuts. Again be careful, we're
nearly there, you don't want to break anything.

The next parts will be a little unsecured until the last screw is in place so don't worry if you
drop something now. Secure part through the left hand hole on the head assembly with an
8mm screw into part. Then mesh the gears on part and place a 12mm screw through it, the
head assembly. This won't be secure yet but keeps it together.

Attach a servo horn and secure it to the servo using the machine screw. Attach part onto
using two 6mm screws.

Now you can attach to the loose 12mm screw and secure it to the extra hole in part #27
with an 8mm screw.
 STEP 12: ADD THE HEAD

Last part is to attach the head.

This is secured by two 8mm screws through the forearms into parts and on the head. You
can also use the spacers to decrease the space between the head and the part joining to the
head. It might make it easier to slacken the 8mm screws on the head servo clam.

Now Switch On And Play!

YOUR FEEDBACK MAY NOT HELP YOU BUT IT WILL
DEFINETILY HELP YOUR SUCCESSORS SO

FOR ANY COMMENTS, SUGGESTION AND QUERIES FEEL

FREE TO CONTACT US.

www.hallroad.org
Digilog Elecronics
Hallroad-org@gmail.com
+92-312-4002221
+92-324-4052635