Common yarn complaints, reason for

such complaints and steps to be taken

Ingineered Quality
 Yarn Complaints

• Shade variation
• Contamination
C t i ti
• Package defects
• Weight variation
• Warping breaks
• Fabric unevenness
• Thin,
Thi Thick
Thi k and
d Slubs
Sl b iin th
the yarn
• Neppy yarn
• High hairiness
• Long
g thick and Long
g thin p
places

Ingineered Quality
Shade Variation

Ingineered Quality
 Shade Variation
Fibre
¾ > 10% of Micronaire variation
• Micronaire
¾ Rd – Within mix + 2.5; Bet. mix +1.0
• Rd and +b +b - Within mix + 1.0; Bet. mix +0.5)
¾ SFC between mix is more important
• SFC than within mix

ART,, HFT (+Balesmart)

( ) & aQura
Yarn
• Count CV% ¾ Count CV% < 1.5 (Less impact)
• TPI CV% ¾ TPI CV% < 3.5%
3 5% (High impact)
¾ Hairiness > 20% (High impact)
• Hairiness variation
iQ & PCS
General
More than 15 days – Not advisable
• Using
U i off stored
t d materials
t i l
Ingineered Quality
 Shade Variation
A typical fabric with shade variation

Ingineered Quality
 Contamination
Reason
• More creation during Picking and Ginning due to using
of objectionable such as plastic bag, cover, wooden
pieces sticks
pieces, sticks, weeds
weeds, etc
• Sale through Plastic and Jute bags
• Hairs, Cloths, Colour yarns during spinning operations
• Lack of awareness Xeni
Steps being taken (By Mills)
• Manual segregation
• Blow room contamination segregator
• FF and PP clearers in winding
Ingineered Quality
 Contamination
Steps being taken (By Ginners)
• Introduction of standardized picking and storage
• Creating awareness
• Cloth bags instead of jute or plastic bags
• Using metal body trolleys for transporting from field to
ginning zone
• Incentive system for pickers
• Premium for contamination free cotton

Ingineered Quality
 Package Defects
• Nose and Base Stitches
• Ribboning
Ribb i
• Soft cones
• Bell shaped cones
• Collapsed cones
• Cut ends
• Weight variation
• Hook marking
• Package abrasion
• Fluff accumulation
Ingineered Quality
 Package Defects
• Periodic Maintenance activities ¾ Cone holder servicing
• Low winding g tension ((8 -12% of ¾ Cone holder setting and
SYS) alignment
• Incoming inspection for paper ¾ Positioning of cone holders
cones and free movement of the
cone holders
• Educate the workers on Dos and
¾ Setting between cone holder
Don’ts
Don ts
and drum
• Peg trolleys for transporting cones
¾ Correcting the anti ribboning
• Cone inserts to avoid cone mechanism
h i
collapse ¾ Keep recommended setting in
• Not to allow transporters to use cam stitch
hooks ¾ Maintain optimum cradle
pressure
• Good house keeping & M/C
cleaning
Ingineered Quality
 Weight variation
• Complaint in terms of deviation from standard weight and
variation between cones

Steps being taken

• Maintaining
g RH% ((70 – 75%))
• Length correction for high clearer cuts
• Ensure that length
g difference between drums is less than
0.5% under identical conditions
• Keep narrow tolerance in packing

Ingineered Quality
 Warping and weaving breaks
• Breaks beyond the limit during warping and weaving
operation
p due to high
g stress which includes extension,,
abrasion and bending.
• High
g warpp breaks lead to low p productivity,
y, high
g work load
and impairs the quality of fabrics - Splice strength
- Cut ends and abrasion
Steps being taken - Deep groove drums

• Weak spots in the yarn Tensomaxx

iQ - Select based on end use
• High hairiness
- CV=7%
• Low strength and elongation
• High RKM and Elongation CV%
-Spun in fly
• Flies and impurities - Wild yarn (extra ends, loose ends)
• Soft ends - Overlapping of coils
- Package
P k defects
d f t
• Winding faults
Ingineered Quality
 Fabric unevenness
Uneven and wavy effect in the fabrics, more predominant
even in grey stage
Reason

• High micronaire and length variation

• High Unevenness% and imperfections mainly thin and thick

• High
g cut length
g CV%

• High CVb%

• Presence of long thick and thin places

• Presence of periodic faults

Ingineered Quality
 Fabric unevenness
Steps being taken
• Mixing selection and • More effect in Knitting
g
maintain the uniform • Balesmart is the right tool

issues over the period ART HFT (+Balesmart)

ART,
of time
• U% at each and every • D
Derive
i stage
t wise
i U% b
based
d on fi
finall
yarn value
stage of processes
g is so
• CV% at different cut length
• CVb at yarn stage important to get even fabric
should be as low as • 10m CV% - Less than 2.0
1.5% • Imperfections and long faults – Refer in
the subsequent slides
• Control imperfections
and long faults iQ & PT7000
Ingineered Quality
 Thin, Thick and slubs in the yarn
Thin and Thick – Visible in naked eye
Slubs
S ubs is
s nothing
o gbbigger
gge ssize,e, pa
partially
a y twisted
s ed e
ends
ds
(fat soft area)
Reason
• Improper selection of mixing
• Poor fibre individualization and card web quality
• Not following systematic and periodic maintenance activities
• Not maintaining optimum process parameters such as draft,
settings,
tti spacer etc.
t
• Up keeping of machines

Ingineered Quality
 Thin, Thick and slubs in the yarn
Steps being taken (Thin and Thick places)
• High fibre length variation and immature fibres
fibres. ART
ART,
• Poor carding action HFT, iQ
and
• Poor combing action
PT7000
• High roving U%
• Eccentric top and bottom rollers in Ring frame
• Variation in top arm pressure
• Hi h ttotal
High t lddraft
ft iin spinning
i i
• Poor condition of aprons
• Fl ff accumulation
Fluff l ti & M/C cleaning
l i ini th
the yarn path
th
• Implementing concept of semi-cleaning/draft zone cleaning
• S t
Systematicti maintenance
i t + Periodic
P i di M/C auditdit
Ingineered Quality
 Thin, Thick and slubs in the yarn
Steps being taken (Slubs) ART,
• High SFC HFT iQ
HFT,
and
• Improper opening of cotton at Blow room PT7000
• Poor carding action
• Variation in top roller pressure in Ring frame
• Wider spacer
• Closer top roller setting
• Lower break draft
• Fluff accumulation and machine cleaning in the yarn path

Ingineered Quality
 Neppy Yarn
Presence of high neps including white speaks in the yarn
which will be more predominant after dyeing
Reason
• Improper mixing selection
• Addition of high% of soft waste including roving ends
• Improper handling of fine micronaire
• Improper opening of cotton at Blow room and generate
more neps
• Low cleaning efficiency and nep removal efficiency
• Improper process parameters
• Not following systematic and periodic maintenance activities
• Improper RH%

Ingineered Quality
 Neppy Yarn
Steps being taken
• Minimize the Presence of high g neps,p , SFC and immature
fibres in the raw material (MC > 0.8)
• Minimize the Addition of high% of soft waste (Max. 3%)
• Process optimization for fine Micronaire (Fine & immature
cotton with high trash content are more prone to neps )
• Selection of right process parameters (Speed
(Speed, draft
draft,
settings, no. of beating points, sliver or lap hank)
Blow room
• Synchronization (80 – 85%)
• Avoid harsh beating g for fine Micronaire ((Porcupine
p opener)
p )
• Min. distance between beaters and straight pipeline
• High cleaning efficiency and low nep generation ( <150%)
• RH% (50% - 55% RH and 80°F )
Ingineered Quality
 Neppy Yarn
Carding and Comber
• High cylinder and flats speed is advisable in carding
• Maintain trash in card sliver less than 0.1%
• High Nep Removal Efficiency in Carding and Comber
(Carding: > 80% and Combers: 45 – 70%)
• RH% ((Carding:
g 50 – 55% and >80°F))

• M/C audit (3 months)

ART, HFT and aQura

Ingineered Quality
 High Hairiness
¾ Fibres protruding on the yarn surface.
¾ Imparts
pa s fuzzy
u y fabric
ab c appea
appearance
a ce a
and
d reduces
educes luster
us e oof ya
yarn.
¾ Creates improper sizing, more breaks during weaving, barre
in the fabrics, p
poor p
pilling
g effect
Reason
• High SFC in the mixing
• Fibre rupture in Preparatory
• I
Improper process parameters
t
• Improper maintenance
• Additi off soft
Addition ft waste
t andd noils
il iin mixing
i i

Ingineered Quality
 High Hairiness

Steps being taken

• Use SFC as one off th
U the fib
fibre properties
ti
• Avoid using of coarser micronaire for selected counts
• A id addition
Avoid dditi off noils
il iin mixing
i i
• Use maximum of 3% soft waste in mixing (1% addition raise
1% in Hairiness value) 4% increase for Contributes
• Ensure no fibre rupture every 1% speed 12 – 15%

• A id overlapping
Avoid l i off coils
il iin roving
i
• Optimum process parameters (Draft, Spacer, top arm
pressure Speed
pressure, Speed, Traveler no no.)) U H
Use Heavier
i ttraveler
l

• Spindle & lappet centering – Being done in time (Ringi)

• Higher dia
dia. ring (without compromising power consumption)

Ingineered Quality
 High Hairiness

Steps being taken

• K
Keep Count
C t on coarser side
id and
d TPI on hi
higher
h side
id
• Temperature and humidity (Dry temperature is danger than
fluctuation in RH %)
• Singeing and compact spinning

SFC Fibre rupture

SFC, ART HFT,
ART, HFT aQura
& &
Hairiness iQ or PT7000

Ingineered Quality
 Long thick and Thin places
Presence of long thick and thin places in the fabrics and create
some kind of streak
Reason
• Addition of roving ends into mixing
• Improper process parameters such as draft, setting, spacers
• Stretch in slivers
• Pressure variation in Draw frame top rollers
• Sl b iin roving
Slubs i
• Un-drafted ends in Ring frame and Simplex
• N t ttaking
Not ki maintenance
i t iin titime
• Poor work practices

Ingineered Quality
 Long thick and Thin places
Steps being taken
Long Thick Places Long Thin Places
¾ “NO” to Roving ends ¾ Optimum bottom roller setting in DF
¾ Optimum
p g in DF ¾ Sliver split
bottom roller setting p and stretch
¾ Low feed and delivery draft ¾ High Stretch% in Simplex ( <0.5%)
¾ High breaks in Simplex ¾ Obstruction in creel rotation
¾ Loose aprons ¾ Bobbin holder servicing
¾ Condenser setting ¾ Wider setting in simplex and
spinning
¾ Piecing
¾ High Tension in winding
¾ Closer
Cl setting
tti iin simplex
i l andd
spinning
aQura 3% Length; iQ – Cut length CV%
¾ House keeping Classii
Class

Ingineered Quality
 Cost Impact
Scouring, Bleaching & Dyeing
Count: 40s Combed

Yarn Knitting Processing Finishing Printing Garments

126 12 70 15 84 ?
(Up to Bleaching – 32)

Shade Variation Rs. 198/Kg (Knitting --> Processing)

Neppy yarn Rs. 254/Kg (Knitting --> Bleaching --> Finishing --> Printing)
High hairiness

Contamination Rs 138/Kg (Knitting)

F b i Unevenness
Fabric U Rs. 198/Kg (Knitting --> Processing)
Thin, Thick & Slubs
High hairiness
Long thick & thin

Ingineered Quality
 Cost Impact
Package Defects Impact is less
Warping breaks It varies from Rs. 2 to 7/Kg
W i h variation
Weight i i
Effect to the SPINNERS (Assume 10,000 Kgs per Annum)
Sh d Variation
Shade V i ti Mi loss
Min. l / Kg
K L
Loss in
i Rupees
R per Annum
A
Neppy yarn Rs. 61.40 (30% + Rs 2) 6,14,000
High hairiness
Rs 51
Rs. 51.80
80 (30% + Rs 2) 5 18
5, 18, 000

Contamination Rs. 30.90 (70% + Rs 1.50) 3, 09, 000

Fabric Unevenness
Thin, Thick & Slubs
Rs. 61.40 (30% + Rs 2) 6,14,000
High hairiness
Long thick & thin

The real loss is REPUTATIONS

Ingineered Quality
End of the presentation

Q&A
Ingineered Quality