Pressing Skills Level

1
Oregon 4-H Clothing Construction Fact Sheets:
Basic Skills—Level 1
4-H 320-14 • October 2014

Pressing means smoothing and shaping garments or articles with heat, moisture,
and pressure with an iron. Pressing gives a smooth, well-made look. It is a
different skill than ironing. When pressing, you lower and lift the iron. When
ironing, you smooth out wrinkles with a sliding motion.
Pressing while you sew will give your garment or article a smooth appearance.
Press each seam and dart before it is crossed with another seam. To make best use
of time and electric energy, sew several seams that do not cross each other, and
then press all of them at the same time.

Getting ready to press

Control of heat, moisture, and pressure is necessary to protect fabrics and give
finished garments a pressed look. Test and adjust the heat, moisture, and pressure
for each fabric you use.
Heat is controlled by the settings on the iron (figure 1). Use the setting for the fiber
content of your fabric. If the fabric is labeled cotton, use the cotton setting on your
iron. If the fabric is a blend of two or more fibers, use the setting for the most heat-
sensitive fiber. For a polyester/cotton blend, you would use the permanent press
setting for polyester because it is a lower temperature than the cotton setting.
Moisture can be used on most fabrics, but you must control it carefully. Moisture
can come from several sources, including a steam iron or a dampened press cloth.
Always test on a scrap of fabric before using moisture on the garment or article.
A steam iron will not produce moisture unless it is set hot enough to make steam.
The labels for the settings on most steam irons will tell you which settings are hot
enough to produce steam. If the fabric requires a heat setting lower than the steam
setting on the iron, use a dampened press cloth to give moisture.
Light pressure is needed to press most of today’s fabrics. It is best to lower and lift
the iron carefully, keeping most of the weight of the iron in your hand. Many steps
of construction pressing use only the tip or the edge of the soleplate (bottom of
the iron). Too much pressure often causes seams or darts to leave a mark or ridge
on the front of the fabric. Figure 1. Heat settings on an iron.

Note: See the Oregon 4-H Clothing Construction Fact Sheet

Sewing Equipment (4-H 320-11) for descriptions of basic tools for pressing.
 Pressing during garment construction
Tips for construction pressing:
• Press pattern pieces with a warm, dry iron before placing the pieces on the
fabric to be sure you will cut the correct size and shape.
• Press the fabric to remove wrinkles, if needed, before placing pattern pieces
on the fabric. Some center creases cannot be removed by pressing. Don’t place
pattern pieces that require a fold on a center crease that cannot be removed.
Figure 2. Pressing a seam allowance • Before pressing an area of a garment or article firmly, be sure it will not be
open using a seam roll. changed or altered.
• Don’t press over pins. They will leave a mark in the fabric. Press around
them, or remove them.
• Hooks and eyes, zippers, and other fasteners may scratch the soleplate of
the iron, causing it to damage fabrics. Use a press cloth to cover the fastener
and protect the iron.
• Remove bastings that might leave marks before you begin to press.
• Press with the yarn direction or grainline, and press in the same direction
the seam was stitched. This will prevent stretching.
• Press each seam, dart, and construction detail before joining it to another
Figure 3. Pressing an armhole seam. part of the garment.
• Use a light touch, usually on the wrong side of the fabric. Do not overpress.
• Clean the iron if it becomes necessary. There are several cleaning products
available that remove built-up starch or other residue. Ask your leader or
parent about using these products on your iron.

Seams
Press all seams just as they were stitched to set the stitches into the fabric. Next,
press each seam allowance back so the seam is open (figure 2). Work first with the
tip of the iron.
When pressing seams open, use a seam roll under the right side of the garment or
strips of paper under the seam allowance. This will prevent marks on the right side.
For curved seams, such as shoulder seams, hip seams, or yokes, use a pressing
cushion or ham under the garment to shape the seam and the surrounding area.

Armhole seams
Figure 4. Pressing a hem.
Press the sleeve side of the seam up (figure 3). Press set-in sleeve seam allowances
as they were stitched. Turn, but do not press, the sleeve cap toward the sleeve.

Hems
Working with the hem side up, lift and lower the iron to avoid stretching the hem.
Press with the yarn direction or grain from the hemline to the hem edge. Use paper
between the hem and the garment to prevent imprinting on the right side (figure 4).
Some garment styles should not be pressed with a sharp crease at the hemline.
Use a hem gauge or a piece of paper with the width of the hem or casing marked
on it to help you get an even edge.

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Casings
Fold-down casings are pressed almost the same as hems. There is an additional
step of turning a portion of the fabric cut edge to the inside before you press the
casing edge.

Edges and creases

Press from the wrong side, and work on a small area at a time. Wool and fabrics
that can be steamed should be steam-pressed and then immediately pounded with
a clapper to force steam through the fabric.
Figure 5. Pressing a dart using a
pressing cushion.
Darts
Press darts flat as they were stitched. Be careful not to press beyond the point.
Place the garment over a pressing cushion or ham (figure 5), press the garment
around the dart as close to the stitching line as possible, and then press the dart
in the correct direction. Press vertical darts toward the center of the body and
horizontal darts downward.
Bulky darts may be cut open and pressed flat with the point area forming a box
pleat. Use strips of paper under the dart to prevent making impressions on the
right side of the garment.
Figure 6. Pressing gathers.
Gathers
Press into gathers toward the stitching line (figure 6). Lift folds away before
pressing the next area. Never press flat across gathers.

Fusing
Fusing is a way to bond two fabrics together. Fusing uses an adhesive that sticks
when heat, moisture, and pressure are applied. The fusible product may be a web
of fusing adhesive that will bond almost any two fabrics together or an interfacing
with the fusible adhesive attached.
Each brand of fusible web and interfacing has specific directions for use. It is
good practice to test the fusible web or interfacing on a scrap of your fabric. Use a
scrap that is large enough to leave part of the fabric unfused so you can compare
the results.

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 Pressing various fibers
Determining the correct heat, moisture, and pressure will be easier if you know
the fabric’s fiber content, texture, and weight.
Cotton is the easiest fiber to press. However, durable-press or permanent-press
cottons require a lower temperature than the cotton setting on irons. Lightweight
cottons may also require reduced heat. Press until the fabric is completely dry.
Most cottons may be pressed with moisture on either side. The exceptions are
dark colors, dull finishes, and heavy textures; these should be pressed on the
wrong side.
Figure 7. Pressing wool on the right
side with a press cloth. Linen is pressed like cotton, except it requires a higher heat setting and more
moisture. Press linen until it is dry. Press on the right side for light colors
and smooth textures. Press on the wrong side for dark colors and slubbed or
uneven textures.
Wool responds well to pressing with moisture but must be protected from direct
contact with the iron. Use a wool or wool/cotton double-layer press cloth to
prevent shine (figure 7). Press on the right side only when necessary. Do not press
wool fabrics dry; leave some moisture in the cloth. Allow the garment to hang or
lay flat to dry before continuing construction or wearing.
Silk needs to be pressed with low heat and little or no moisture to prevent water
spots. Press with a light touch on the wrong side.
Man-made fibers require varying amounts of heat, moisture, and pressure. Many
of these fibers are very sensitive to heat and will melt or glaze if heat is too high.
Some man-made fibers are developed to be less heat sensitive and require higher
temperature settings.
Always test a sample of your fashion fabric to determine the proper pressing
temperature. Know the fiber content, and start with the appropriate setting.
Lightweight and sheer fabrics may require reducing the temperature even more,
or protecting the fabric with a lightweight press cloth. If moisture is needed with a
low temperature setting, use a dampened press cloth.
Blends of two or more fibers should be pressed at the temperature setting for the
most heat-sensitive fiber.

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Pressing special fabrics
Specific pressing techniques are needed for some fabrics because of their texture,
color, or finish.
Crepe fabrics need to be pressed with as little moisture as possible to avoid
shrinking or stretching the fabric. Use a press cloth, press with the grain, and do
not overpress.
Dull-finished fabrics should be pressed on the wrong side to avoid shine. A press
cloth may also be needed.
Glossy and shiny fabrics may be pressed on either side without a press cloth. Figure 8. Pressing corduroy fabric.
Little or no moisture should be used.
Raised surface textures should be pressed on the wrong side on a softly padded
board or terry cloth. The amount of moisture required depends on the fiber
content and amount of pressure needed. Generally, light pressure is needed
for laces and woven and embossed designs, and heavier pressure is needed for
embroidered designs.
Napped, sueded, and brushed fabrics should be pressed on the wrong side on a
softly padded board. They need to be pressed with light pressure and ample steam.
If pressing on the right side is needed, use a self-fabric press cloth. After pressing,
you may need to restore the nap by brushing.
Pile fabrics such as corduroy, velveteen, and velvet require very careful handling
during pressing. Pressing velvet is best done with a needleboard, but self-fabric
scraps may be substituted. Large amounts of steam and very little pressure are
needed. Use only the point of the iron in a lower-and-lift motion on the fold of
seams and darts (figure 8).
DO NOT slide the iron on the fabric, and NEVER press on the right side. After
steam-pressing an area, let it dry before you handle it again. Some pile fabrics
cannot be pressed, such as fake furs. Finger-press seams open with your thumbnail.

References
Reader’s Digest. (2005). Complete Guide to Sewing. (2005). Pleasantville, NY:
The Reader’s Digest Association.

By Pamela Rose, 4-H Youth Development specialist, family and consumer science and expressive arts, Oregon State University.
Photos by Pamela Rose, © Oregon State University.
This publication is based on and replaces OSU Extension publication 4-H 92122, Pressing Skills: 4-H Clothing, Skill Level 2, by Ardis W. Koester,
Extension textiles and clothing specialist emeritus; and Barbara J. Sawer, Extension specialist emeritus, 4-H Youth Development; both of Oregon
State University.
Trade-name products and services are mentioned as illustrations only. This does not mean that the Oregon State University Extension Service
either endorses these products and services or intends to discriminate against products and services not mentioned.
© 2014 Oregon State University.
Extension work is a cooperative program of Oregon State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Oregon counties. Oregon State
University Extension Service offers educational programs, activities, and materials without discrimination based on age, color, disability, gender
identity or expression, genetic information, marital status, national origin, race, religion, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran’s status. Oregon State
University Extension Service is an Equal Opportunity Employer.
Published October 2014.

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