PD

F
Greece
Peloponnese
(PDF Chapter)
Edition 12th Edition, March 2016
Pages 58
Page Range 128–185 COVERAGE INCLUDES:
Useful Links • Ancient Mycenae • Messinia
Want more guides? • Nafplio • Kalamata
Head to our shop • Central Arkadia • Ancient Messini
• Sparta • Koroni
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Trouble shoot here • Mystras • Methoni
• Monemvasia • Pylos
Need more help?
Head to our FAQs • Neapoli • Gialova
• Gythio • Olympia
Stay in touch
• The Mani • Andritsena
Contact us here
• Lakonian Mani • Kyllini

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Peloponnese
Includes  Why Go?
Ancient Mycenae. . . . 135 The Peloponnese (pe-lo-po-nih-sos; Πελοπόννησος) is the
Nafplio. . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 stuff of legends. Literally. It is here that Hercules fought the
Central Arkadia. . . . . . 146 Nemean lion and gods walked the earth, meddling in mortal
Sparta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 affairs; it’s from here that Paris of Troy eloped with Helen and
the Argonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece. Celes-
Mystras . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 tial and mythological charms aside, this region bears tangible
Monemvasia . . . . . . . . 154 traces of the many civilisations that once called it home, wit-
Lakonian Mani . . . . . . 157 nessed in its classical temples, Mycenaean palaces, Byzantine
Messinian Mani. . . . . . 162 cities, and Ottoman, Frankish and Venetian fortresses.
The very topography that kept invaders at bay for cen-
Methoni. . . . . . . . . . . . 169
turies – lofty, snowcapped mountains, vast gorges, sandy
Olympia. . . . . . . . . . . . 173 beaches and azure waters – now draws visitors of a very
different kind. Filoxenia (hospitality) is as strong here as
anywhere in the country; the food is among Greece’s best;
and the region’s vineyards are contributing to Greece’s wine
Best Places renaissance. Locals claim to have the best of everything to
to Eat give. And that’s no myth.

¨¨3Sixty° (p142)
¨¨Voula’s Yesterday & Today When to Go
(p162)
Nafplio
¨¨Chrisovoulo (p156)
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
¨¨Teloneio (p160) 40/104 0.79/20

¨¨Elies (p164) 30/86

0.39/15

20/68

Best Places 10/50

0.2/5

to Stay 0/32 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
¨¨Antares (p159)
¨¨Traditional Guesthouse
Apr–Jun Perfect Sep Take part Easter The pomp
Mazaraki (p154) hiking and beach in the gruelling and ceremony of
¨¨Nafplion 1841 (p141) weather, without Spartathlon…if religious festivi-
the summer you think you’re ties during Ortho-
¨¨Tainaron Blue (p159)
crowds. tough enough. dox Easter week
¨¨Mpelleiko (p146) are unforgettable.
 1 29
History The Peloponnese became part of the inde-
Since ancient times the Peloponnese (named pendent state of Greece, and Nafplio became
the first national capital. Ioannis Kapodistri-
after the mythical Pelops) has played a ma-
as, Greece’s first president, was assassinated
jor role in Greek history. When the Minoan
on the steps of Nafplio’s Church of St Spyri-
civilisation declined after 1450 BC, the focus
don in October 1831, and the new king, Otto,
of power in the ancient Aegean world moved
moved the capital to Athens in 1834.
from Crete to the hill-fortress palaces of My-
Like the rest of Greece, the Peloponnese
cenae and Tiryns in the Peloponnese. As
suffered badly during WWII and the civ-
elsewhere in Greece, the 400 years following
il war (1944–49) that followed. During the
the Dorian conquests in the 12th century
1950s many villagers migrated to Athens,
BC are known as the Dark Ages. When the
and further abroad to Australia, Canada,
region emerged from darkness in the 7th
South Africa and the USA.

Pe lo p o n n e se H
century BC, Athens’ arch rival, Sparta, had
surpassed Mycenae as the most powerful
city in the Peloponnese, sparking the Pelo-
88 Information
ponnesian Wars (431–04 BC). Due to the Greek financial crisis, the hours of
A period of peace and prosperity ensued museums and sites in the Peloponnese are par-
ticularly vulnerable to change. Check in advance.
under Roman rule (146 BC to around AD
250) but was shattered by a series of inva-
88 Getting There & Around

I nI S
sions by Goths, Avars and Slavs.

fo
The Byzantines were slow to make in- BUSES

TO
r mation
roads into the Peloponnese, only becoming Be aware of the difference between Corinth Isth-

RY
firmly established during the 9th century mus (the canal) and Corinth (the city). Located
AD. In 1204, after the fall of Constantino- on a main road on the Peloponnese side of the
ple to the Crusaders, the Frankish Crusader Corinth Canal, the Corinth Isthmus (Pelopon-
chiefs William de Champlitte and Geoffrey nese) KTEL bus station (%27410 75410, in
de Villehardouin divided the region into 12 Athens 210 512 4919) is the spot to change for
fiefs, which they parcelled out to various bar- buses south to the rest of the Peloponnese. No
formal timetables are available; most buses from
ons of France, Flanders and Burgundy. These
Athens heading to the Peloponnese stop here.
fiefs were overseen by de Villehardouin, the
The KTEL Korinthos bus station (% 27410
self-appointed prince of the Morea, as the re-
75425; www.ktel-korinthias.gr; Dimocratias 4) in
gion was called in medieval times. Corinth (city) is the departure point for buses to
The Byzantines gradually won back the Ancient Corinth (€1.60, 20 minutes, seven daily
Morea and although the empire as a whole Monday to Saturday), Nemea (€4.50, one hour,
was now in decline, a glorious renaissance four to five daily, one Sunday) and Loutraki (for
took place in the area, centred on Mystras, Corinth Isthmus; €1.70, 10 minutes, half-hourly).
the region’s seat of government. Weekend bus services range from infrequent
The Morea fell to the Turks in 1460, and to nonexistent.
hundreds of years of power struggles be-
tween the Turks and Venetians followed. CAR
The Venetians had long coveted the Morea If driving the winding, scenic minor roads across
and succeeded in establishing profitable the peninsula, always allow yourself plenty of
trading ports at Methoni, Pylos, Koroni and time. When going around sharp bends, watch out
Monemvasia. for oncoming drivers who can tend to cut across
your lane without sounding their horn.
The Greek War of Independence suppos-
edly began in the Peloponnese, when Bishop At research time, the E65, the coastal motor-
Germanos of Patra raised the flag of revolt way that connects Athens to Patra, was in the
process of being turned into a four-lane highway;
near Kalavryta on 25 March 1821. The Egyp-
however, work has been suspended in the past
tian army, under the leadership of Ibrahim due to lack of funding. The barrier in the middle
Pasha, brutally restored Turkish rule in 1825. of the road means travelling in heavy traffic at
In 1827 the Triple Alliance of Great Brit- the speed of the slowest vehicle, with few oppor-
ain, France and Russia – moved by Greek tunities for overtaking.
suffering and by the activities of philhel-
lenes (the death of Lord Byron in 1824 was TRAINS
particularly influential) – came to the rescue At research time the OSE train services in the
of the Greeks by destroying the Turkish– Peloponnese were suspended. Only one line –
Egyptian fleet at the Battle of Navarino, end- Athens to Patra – was operating, with a replace-
ing Turkish domination of the area. ment bus service between Kiato and Patra.
1 30
E55
Adirrio
Peloponnese STEREA ELLADA
Highlights Rio
Kamares
1 Soaking up the Corfu (220km); Gulf of Egio
Cape Patra Patra
past and present of Italy (310km) Araxos
Nafplio (p138) and Paralia Mt Panahaïko
Monemvasia (p154). (1924m)

2 Marvelling at the Kato ACHAÏA Zahlorou

sanctuary of Ancient Achaia
Vouraïkos Gorge
Olympia (p173), E55
Kalavryta
Zakynthos (20km);
birthplace of the Kefallonia (40km) Moni Agias
Olympic Games. Lake Lavras
Kyllini Kotichi 33
3 Hiking the remote Lake Mt Lambia Cave of
Pe lo p o n n e se H

Pinios (2221m) the Lakes

and rugged Mani Hlemoutsi Elis
(p157) and staying Castle Klitoria
in traditional Maniot Efira Lambia
Gastouni Mt Aphrodisio 33
tower houses. Cape
Tripiti Amaliada (1445m)
4 Hiking the Lake
Menalon Trail ELIA Ladonas
(p146) through the
G etting

Korakohori Lagkadia
ighlights

Lousios Gorge and

Ancient
discovering the Pyrgos
Olympia Pissa Lousios
delights of charming Ancient Gorge Dimitsana
mountain villages Krestena Olympia
T he r e & A r o u nd

Ancient
Stemnitsa and Gortys
Dimitsana. Kallithea
Stemnitsa
IONIAN Andritsena Karitena
5 Meandering SEA
Zacharo
Temple of Mt Lykeio
through the magical E55 Epicurean (1420m)
Mystras (p152), a Apollo Megalopoli
World Heritage–listed Tholos
Gulf of Ancient
Byzantine site. Figalia Ancient
Kyparissia Lykosoura
6 Exploring the
Kopanaki
historic sites of Kalo Nero 9A
Ancient Mycenae E55
Kyparissia
(p135), Ancient Meligalas
Nemea (p133) and
Mavromati 7
Epidavros (p143). Filiatra Ancient
7 Tackling the Messini
9
Koutala
dramatic Vouraïkos MESSINIA
Gorge (p184) via the Marathopoli Chora Messini
unique rack-and- Proti Nestor's Palace Kalamata
pinion train or on 82 Petalidi
foot from the historic Gialova Bay
village of Kalavryta. Paleokastro
Petalidi
Mt Likodimo Kitries
Pylos
(960m)

Methoni Harokopio
Messinian
Sapientza Finikounda Koroni Gulf
Town
Sapientza Cape Akritas
Islet
Schiza Venetiko
Finikounda
Bay

0 50 km
0 30 miles

Crete (140km)
 1 31
Lamia
Agios (50km)
Nikolaos Thiva E75
(Thebes)
Gulf of
Corinth
Diakofto
E972
Derveni Alkyonides
Gulf
E65 Ancient
ATTICA Elefsina
(Eleusis)
Heraion
as Megara
th
Si Kiato Loutraki ATHENS
Zarouhia Ancient E94 Salamina
Sikyon Corinth Piraeus
Mt Helmos Mt Killini Corinth Canal
(2355m) (2376m) Salamina

Pe lo p o n n e se H
Ancient Isthmia Gulf of
Stymfalia Corinth Isthmia Megara
Stymfalia CORINTHIA Kechries Bay
Acrocorinth Saronic
Lake
Stymfalia Nemea Ancient Athikia Gulf
Kleonai
Ancient Korfos
NemeaAncient Aegina
Vlacherna Mt Pharmakas Nea Town Aegina
(1615m) Mycenae

G etting
Epidavros Angistri
Mycenae

ighlights
E65 Mt Arahneo Nea
Vitina Mt Menalo Epidavros Bay
(1980m) Argos
(1197m) AEGEAN
Tiryns Epidavros Kypseli SEA
Kefalari Ligourio
ARKADIA Methana

T he r e & A r o u nd
Mt Artemisio Nafplio ARGOLIS
(1771m) Trahia Poros
Ancient Kandia Poros
Tripoli Kiveri Asini Didyma Town
Asini Gulf Caves Mt Didymo
E55
Beach of (1121m) Galatas
Tolo Psili
Ancient Metochi
7 Tegea Paralia Kilada Cape Spathi
Tanos Ermioni
Astros Astros Argolic Hydra
P

Kranidi Gulf
a

Gulf Hydra
rn

Agios
Andreas Porto Heli Hydra
on

Dokos Town
Kosta
as

KYNOURIA Spetses
Kranidi
E961 Paralia Spetses Bay
Tyrou Town
M

Spetsopoula
ou

39 Leonidio
Langada
nta

Pass Mt Parnon Plaka

Artemisia (1839m) Poulithra
in s

Pikoulianika
Sparta Kosmas MYRTOÖN
Ta

Mystras SEA
ÿg

Anavryti Ev Geraki
MESSINIAN Rivrotas
eto

Paralia
MANI er
Kyparissi
s M

Mt Profitis Dafnion LAKONIA

Ilias (2407m)
oun

Apidia
Kardamyli 86
Stoupa
tai

Skala
Molai
ns

Platsa The Gythio Sikia

Langada Mani Gerakas
Itilo 39 Elea
Nea Itilo Mavrovouni
Monemvasia
Limeni Areopoli Plitra
Omales Gefyra
Diros Caves Flomochori
86
Pyrgos Dirou Kotronas
LAKONIAN Alipa Beach
MANI Nyfi Nyfi Beach Kastania Cave
Lakonian Neapoli
Nomia Kita Agia Kyprianos
Gulf Elafonisi
Gerolimenas Mountanistika Town Velanidia
Alika Elafonisi Ky
Vathia Porto Kagio
Str thira Cape Maleas
Marmari Cape Tenaro Kythira ait
1 32
The proastiako, Athens’ suburban rail service,
runs between Kiato, Corinth (city) train station
1 Sights
and Athens international airport (around €12, 1½ oAncient Corinth ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
hours, around eight daily). A handy bus shuttles (% 27410 31207; admission €6; h 8.30am-8pm)
between Corinth city’s Plateia Kentriki (€1.50, In the centre of a modern village loom the
20 minutes) and the train station. extensive yet compact ruins of this ancient
A small local train runs between Pyrgos and (mostly Roman) city. Home to the legendary
Olympia (for Ancient Olympia) and a rack-and- Jason of the Argonauts, stealer of the Golden
pinion railway connects Diakofto with Kalavryta. Fleece, the streets of Ancient Corinth were
once trodden by the likes of Roman travel-
ler Pausanias and St Paul, who taught the
gospel of Christ in vain here. You can follow
CORINTHIA ΚΟΡΙΝΘIΑ in their footsteps by visiting the Temple of
Pe lo p o n n e se A

Corinthia has had a rich and tumultuous Apollo, the Peribolos of Apollo, the ancient
history, owing largely to its strategic position theatre and other site highlights. The on-site
adjoining the Corinth Isthmus. Throughout museum puts everything into context.
time several empires have wrestled here An exception to the Roman ruins is the
for dominance over the Peloponnese: the prominent 5th-century-BC Doric Temple of
Romans constructed a vast wall across the Apollo. To the south of this temple is a huge
isthmus; many centuries later the Turks agora (market) bounded on its southern
C ights
S ncient
o r inthia

overran it; and pretty much everyone else side by the foundations of a stoa (long col-
has attempted to carve a canal across it. onnaded building). This was built to accom-
Once dominated by the mighty ancient modate the bigwigs summoned here in 337
city of Corinth, Corinthia is now the keeper BC by Philip II to sign oaths of allegiance to
C o r inth & A c r oco r inth

of its remains. Macedon. In the middle of the central row

In the pretty hinterland west of Corinth of shops is a bema, a marble podium from
you can take part in the resurrected Nemean which Roman officials addressed the people.
Games, or travel the Nemea region’s wine At the eastern end of the agora are the
route in search of Greece’s best vintages. remains of the Julian basilica. To the north
is the Lower Peirene fountain – the Upper
Peirene fountain is on Acrocorinth. Accord-
A ncient Corinth ing to mythology, Peirene wept so much
& Acrocorinth when her son Kenchrias was killed by Ar-
temis that the gods, rather than let all the
Αρχαία Κόρινθος & precious water go to waste, turned her into
Ακροκόρινθος a fountain.
Ancient Corinth was an affluent and pow- West of the fountain, steps lead to the
erful city during its first golden age. Earth- Lecheon road, once the main thoroughfare
quakes and centuries of pillage, however, to the port of Lecheon. On the east side of
have left only the remnants of once-grand the road is the Peribolos of Apollo, a court-
buildings, 7km southwest of the modern city, yard flanked by Ionic columns, some of
surrounded by the village of Ancient Corinth which have been restored. Nearby is a public
and overlooked by the Acrocorinth fortress. latrine, where some seats remain.
South of the museum are the columns of
History Temple E (Pausanias describes it as being
During the 6th century BC Corinth was one dedicated to Octavia, sister of Augustus).
of Ancient Greece’s richest cities, thanks to The site’s excellent museum has three
its strategic position on the Corinth Isth- main rooms: the first two exhibit fine Greek
mus. Its twin ports, one on the Aegean Sea and Roman statues, mosaics, figurines, reliefs
(Kenchreai, near Kechries) and one on the and friezes. The third room houses the finds
Ionian side (Lecheon), enabled it to trade of excavations at the nearby Sanctuary of
throughout the Mediterranean. It survived Asklepios (500 BC). Highlights include grave
the Peloponnesian Wars and flourished un- markers, votive genitalia from the 4th centu-
der Macedonian rule, but it was sacked by ry BC and an ancient ‘keep off the grass’ sign.
the Roman consul Mummius in 146 BC for Opposite the site entrance is the ancient
rebelling against Roman rule. In 44 BC Ju- theatre, built in the 5th century BC for up
lius Caesar began rebuilding the city and it to 15,000 spectators, and the Roman odeion
again became a prosperous port. (indoor theatre), from the 1st century AD.
 133
Acrocorinth FORTRESS
(h 8am-8pm) F High up above Ancient Ancient Nemea
Corinth, crowning the sheer bulk of lime-
stone known as Acrocorinth, are the ruins
Αρχαία Νεμέα
of one of the finest natural fortifications in Situated 31km southwest of Corinth, on the
Ancient Greece. Cast your eyes upwards and northeastern edge of modern Nemea, An-
you’ll give an involuntary gasp. Command- cient Nemea (% 27460 22739; site, museum
ing wonderful views over the surround- & stadium adult/concession €4/2, site & museum
ing region, the fortress is a stiff but utterly adult/concession €3/2; h museum 8am-3pm)
worthwhile 4km uphill hike (or taxi ride) if was once the venue for the biennial Nemean
you don’t have your own wheels. Games, held in honour of Zeus. Three origi-
The original fortress has been modified nal columns of the imposing 4th-century-BC
many times over the centuries by a string Doric Temple of Zeus survive, and the on-site

Pe lo p o n n e se A
of invaders. Passing through the three gates museum displays rich finds from the area.
(Turkish, Frankish and Byzantine), you can The stadium where the Games were held is
explore the medley of imposing Roman, nearby; once connected to the sanctuary by
Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Turkish a sacred road, it plays host to the resurrected
ramparts, harbouring remains of Byzantine Games once again, the next in 2016.
chapels, Turkish houses and mosques. Like Ancient Olympia, Nemea was not a
city but a sanctuary of Zeus. The Nemean

C ights
S
From the main path, the right fork leads

N
oC
to the remains of a 14th-century Frankish Games were hosted by the nearby city of

r Iinthia
Kleonai and became one of the great Pan-

ENT NEMEA
keep. The central path leads you to the
Fountain of Peirene, the favourite watering hellenic festivals. There’s a mythological side
hole of Pegasus the winged horse. Accessi- to Nemea as well: it was around here that
ble by the left-hand path, on the higher of Hercules carried out the first of his labours –
Acrocorinth’s two summits are the remains the slaying of the lion that had been sent by
of the Temple of Aphrodite, where sacred Hera to destroy Nemea. After Hercules had
courtesans catered to the desires of the insa- killed the lion by lifting it off the ground and
tiable Corinthians. choking it to death, using his prodigious
Wear stout shoes and take plenty of water. strength, the lion became the constellation

CORINTH CANAL ΤΗΣ ΚΟΡIΝΘΟΥ

The Corinth Canal is an engineering marvel. A project that spanned many centuries, it
was conceived by a ruler of Ancient Corinth, begun by Roman emperor Nero and com-
pleted in the 19th century by the French. Cut through solid rock, the canal is more than
6km long and 23m wide, its vertical sides rising 90m above the water. The canal did
much to elevate Piraeus’ status as a major Mediterranean port and is particularly im-
pressive when a ship is passing through.
The concept of cutting a canal through the Corinth Isthmus to link the Ionian and
Aegean Seas was first proposed by Periander, tyrant of Ancient Corinth at the end of the
7th century BC. The magnitude of the task defeated him, so he opted instead to build a
diolkos (paved slipway), across which sailors dragged small ships on rollers, a method
used until the 13th century.
In the intervening years many leaders, including Alexander the Great and Caligula,
toyed with the canal idea, but it was Nero who struck the first blow himself, using a
golden pickaxe in AD 67 before leaving it to 6000 Jewish slaves to do the hard work. The
project was soon halted by invasions by the Gauls. Ironically, it was a French engineering
company that finally completed the canal in 1893.
If you’re adventurous, Zulu Bungy Jump (%693 270 2535; www.zulubungy.com; €60;
h10am-6pm Wed-Sun Jun-Sep) offers the chance to see the canal walls from a unique angle.
If you have your own transport, head to nearby Isthmia to the submersible bridge,
one of two bridges crossing the canal. The nearby banks are great vantage points if
you’re lucky enough to be there when a ship passes over the submerged bridge.
All buses from Athens pass over the bridge and stop at the Corinth Isthmus KTEL bus
station (p129), 200m from the canal.
134

NEMEA’S WINE ROUTE

In the rolling hills southwest of Corinth, the Nemea region is one of Greece’s premier
wine-producing areas, famous for its full-bodied reds, many produced from the local
agioritiko grape. Look out also for wine made from roditis, a local variety of white grape.
Nemea has been known for its fine wines since Mycenaean times, when nearby Phlius
supplied the wine for the royal court at Mycenae. Half a dozen or so wineries provide
tastings for visitors (many free, some by appointment). The best spots for a tipple in-
clude the following:
Lafkiotis Winery (% 27460 31000; www.lafkiotis.gr; Ancient Kleonai; h 11am-4pm) The
Lafkiotis family has been specialising in wines made from local grape varieties since
1963. Besides the agiorgitiko, agionymo, Nemea and rodamos reds, you can also sample
Pe lo p o n n e se A

the fruity moschofilero white.

Skouras (% 27510 23688; www.skouraswines.com; h by appointment) George Skouras has
two wineries, one near Argos and the other in the AOC region of Nemea, and has been
producing wines from local and international grape varieties since 1986.
Domaine Spiropoulos (% 27960 61400; www.domainspiropoulos.com; Corinthos-Tripoli
National Rd; h by appointment) With two vineyards that have been in the family since
1860 – one near Nemea and the other one on the Martinia plateau in the heart of the
GrN
etting

Peloponnese – Apostolos Spiropoulos is a pioneering figure in organic viticulture and

golis
CIENT N

produces moschofilero, agiorgitiko, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, char-

donnay, sauvignon blanc and syrah wines.
Ktima Palivou (% 27460 24190; www.palivos.gr; Ancient Nemea; h by appointment)
T he
E MrEeA & Away

Third-generation winemaker George Palivos specialises in agiorgitiko wines.

Gaia Wines (% 21080 55642; www.gaia-wines.gr; Koutsi; wine tastings €4-8; h by appoint-
ment) North of Nemea in pretty hill country, Gaia Wines produces unfiltered wines,
including appellation d’origine controlée (AOC) varieties. Its signature wine is the dry
white thalassitis, made from the asyrtiko grape.

Leo (each of Hercules’ 12 labours is related ter it the way the athletes would have done,
to a sign of the zodiac). through the tunnel hidden behind the col-
It’s worth visiting the site’s museum umns by the site entrance. The athletes’
before seeing the remains of the temple. starting line is still in place, together with
It has two models of the ancient site – the the distance markers. Look out for ancient
first shows what it would have looked like ‘graffiti’ in the tunnel. Resurrected in 1996,
in 573 BC, the second in AD 500 – as well as the two-day Modern Nemean Games
ancient paraphernalia from the Games and (www.nemeangames.org) take place over
treasures from the area’s Mycenaean tombs. two days each Olympic year in June.
The jewel of the collection, quite literally, is
the Gold of Aidonia, an exquisite assortment 88 Getting There & Away
of gold rings, seals and beads from the site of Buses to/from Corinth Isthmus (€4.50, one
Aidonia, near Nemea. Don’t miss the video hour, four to five Monday to Saturday, one Sun-
that explains the extraordinarily advanced day) stop on request outside the site on the way
race-starting mechanism (English subtitles). to modern Nemea, about 4km northwest.
At the temple site, the three original
columns of the 4th-century-BC Temple of
Zeus have been joined by six more, reassem- ARGOLIS ΑΡΓΟΛΙΔΑ
bled by an American team; reconstruction
is in progress. Other ruins include a bath- The Argolis peninsula, which separates the
house, probably used by athletes to oil up Saronic and Argolic Gulfs, is steeped in leg-
precompetition, and a hostelry. end and history. The town of Argos, from
The stadium is 500m back along the which the region takes its name, is thought
road. There’s a fantastic view of it in all its to be the longest continually inhabited town
restored glory from the the path that skirts in Greece. Argolis was the seat of power of
it through the pine trees. Alternatively, en- the Mycenaean empire that ruled Greece
from 1600 to 1100 BC. Traces of this mighty
 135
civilisation lie scattered across the region in the Ancient Agora. Signs provide diagrams
the shape of tholos tombs, citadels and an- and contextualise the setting. From central
cient theatres. The Venetian seafront town Argos, head south along Danaou for about
of Nafplio makes a handy base for ventures 500m and then turn right onto Theatrou.
into the surrounding countryside.
88 Getting There & Away
Just south of the central square, KTEL Argolis
Argos Αργος (% 27510 67324; www.ktel-argolidas.gr; Kapo-
POP 22,200 distriou 8) has bus services to Nafplio (€1.60,
The ancient town of Argos stretches back an 30 minutes, hourly) and Mycenae (€1.60, 30
astonishing 6000 years, though today most minutes, two daily except Sunday).
vestiges of its past glory lie buried beneath There are also bus services to Athens (€11.90,
the bustling modern town. Overshadowed by two hours, 12 to 15 daily) via Corinth Isthmus

Pe lo p o n n e se A
its neighbour, Nafplio (12km away), Argos is (€5.20, 50 minutes), and to Tripoli (€6.70, one
worth a detour for its archaeological muse- hour, two daily).
um, as well as the nearby ruins and fortress.

1 Sights Ancient Mycenae

Archaeological Museum of Argos MUSEUM
Αρχαία Μυκήνες

S ights
(% 27510 68819; Plateia Agiou Petrou; adult/con- In the barren foothills of Mt Agios Ilias

R
rG
(750m) and Mt Zara (600m) stand the som-

golis
cession €2/1; h 8am-3pm Tue-Sun) Just off the

OS
central square, the archaeological museum bre and mighty ruins of Ancient Mycenae
includes some outstanding and complete (%27510 76585; adult/concession €8/4; h8am-
Roman mosaics and sculptures in its collec- 8pm Apr-Oct, to 3pm Nov-Mar), home of the
tion, as well as bronze objects from Mycenae- mythical Agamemnon. For 400 years (1600–
an tombs. Highlights include the statuette of 1200 BC) this kingdom was the most power-
a goddess, a mosaic of the four seasons in ful in Greece, holding sway over the Argolid
the courtyard, a suit of bronze armour from and influencing other Mycenaean kingdoms.
the 8th century BC and some fine Neolithic,
Mycenaean and Geometric Age pottery, in- History
cluding some Argive grey and brown vases World Heritage–listed Mycenae is syn-
dating to before 1600 BC. Note the museum onymous with the names Homer and
was under renovation and closed at research Schliemann. In the 9th century BC Homer
time, with no set reopening date. told in his epic poems, the Iliad and the Od-
yssey, of ‘well-built Mycenae, rich in gold’.
Larissa Castle CASTLE
These poems were, until the 19th century,
F Looming over Argos, Larissa Castle is a regarded as no more than gripping and
crumbling conglomeration of purple-flower- beautiful legends. But in the 1870s the am-
studded towers, bastions and wall sections – ateur archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann
contributed by Roman, Frankish, Venetian (1822–90), despite derision from profession-
and Ottoman Turk conquerors – that stands al archaeologists, struck gold, first at Troy
on the foundations of the city’s principal an- then at Mycenae.
cient citadel. Much of the citadel is under- In Mycenae, myth and history are inextri-
going restoration, but the all-encompassing cably linked. According to Homer, Mycenae
views from the top are well worth the ascent. was founded by Perseus, the son of Danae
Take Tsokri street west from the centre and and Zeus. Perseus’ greatest heroic deed was
follow the signposts to the narrow road that the killing of the hideous snake-haired Me-
winds around the back of the ruined keep. dusa, whose gaze literally petrified the be-
Roman Ruins RUIN holder. Eventually, the dynasty of Perseus
(h 8am-3pm) F Impressive Roman ruins was overthrown by Pelops, a son of Tantalus.
straddle both sides of the Tripolis road. The The Mycenaean Royal House of Atreus was
star attraction is the half-crumbled thea- probably descended from Pelops, and by Ag-
tre, which originally seated 20,000 people. amemnon’s time the Royal House of Atreus
Dating from Classical times, it was greatly was the most powerful of the Achaeans
modified by the Romans. Nearby are the re- (Homer’s name for the Greeks). It eventually
mains of a 1st-century-AD odeion (a small- came to a sticky end, fulfilling the curse that
er theatre) and Roman baths. Opposite is had been cast because of Pelops’ misdeeds.
1 36

D Museum (150m) e
# 00 100 m
0.05 miles

6
Drain
'
€#
#&
9
~ 1
Agamemnon's
#
8
#
7
#
4 Death
#
2 Chamber #
6
.
# #
5

6
#
3
Throne Great
Room Court
Merchants'
Houses

Mycenae
D

(1.5km)

22 Site Tour
Citadel of Mycenae
Follow the main path up to 4Agamem-
START LION GATE
non’s Palace, centred on the Great Court.
END THOLOS TOMBS
LENGTH 2.5KM; TWO HOURS
The rooms to the north were private royal
apartments where it is thought that Agam-
emnon was murdered. On the palace’s south-
Enter Agamemnon’s Palace through the dra- eastern side is the 5megaron (reception
matic 1Lion Gate, a solid construction of hall where the great hearth would have been),
massive stone blocks over which rear two large with the column bases remaining and, be-
lionesses. The lion motif is believed to have yond this, the 6artisans’ quarters.
been the insignia of the Royal House of Atreus. At the northeast extension you’ll find the
Inside the citadel, 2Grave Circle A is on entrance to the 7secret cistern in the
the right. Five shafts of this royal cemetery corner. You’ll need a torch to descend the 100
were excavated by Heinrich Schliemann be- or so steps into the subterranean gloom.
tween 1874 and 1876, uncovering a rich ar- Follow the main path anticlockwise; on
chaeological haul, including a well-preserved the northern boundary of the citadel is the
gold death mask. Schliemann sent a telegram
8Postern Gate, through which, it is said,
to the Greek king stating, ‘I have gazed upon Orestes escaped after murdering his mother.
the face of Agamemnon,’ though the mask Until the late 15th century BC the My-
turned out to belong to an unknown king. cenaeans interred their royal dead in shaft
South of Grave Circle A is a group of ru- graves; later they used a new form of burial –
ined 3houses. The famous Warrior Vase, the beehive-shaped tholos tomb. Back out-
unearthed here, was regarded by Schliemann side the Lion Gate, head down to the tholos
as one of his greatest discoveries because it tombs of Aegisthus, with its collapsed roof,
offered a glimpse of what Mycenae’s legend- and Clytemnestra’s tomb, with its dramatic
ary warriors looked like. entrance and restored dome roof.
 1 37
The historical facts are that Mycenae was 1 Sights
first settled by Neolithic people in the 6th
millennium BC. Between 2100 and 1900 BC,
oTreasury of Atreus
(Agamemnon’s Tomb) ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
during the Bronze Age, Greece was invaded
(adult/concession incl Ancient Mycenae site &
by people of Indo-European heritage who
museum €8/4; h 8am-6pm) Dating back to
had crossed Anatolia via Troy to Greece. The
around 1300 BC, this is the finest existing
newcomers brought an advanced culture to
example of a domed tholos tomb, made by
then-primitive Mycenae and other mainland
filing down the layers of breccia blocks to
settlements. This new civilisation is now
create the smooth interior. It’s wonderfully
referred to as the Mycenaean, named after
misnamed, since it has little to do with the
its most powerful kingdom. The other king-
mythical Atreus, or with his equally mythi-
doms included Pylos, Tiryns, Corinth and
cal son, Agamemnon, but the interior is tru-
Argos, all in the Peloponnese.

Pe lo p o n n e se A
ly awe-inspiring, with a 40m-long passage
Mycenae consisted of a fortified citadel
leading to the vast beehive-shaped chamber.
and surrounding settlement. Due to the
Spot the original bronze nails that once held
sheer size of the citadel walls (13m high and
the door in place.
7m thick), formed by stone blocks weighing 6
tonnes in places, the Ancient Greeks believed Ancient Mycenae Museum MUSEUM
they must have been built by a Cyclops, one (adult/concession incl Ancient Mycenae site & Ag-

S ights
of the giants described in the Odyssey. amemon’s Tomb €8/4; h 8am-6pm) Part of the

r golis
N CIENT MYCENAE
Archaeological evidence indicates that Ancient Mycenae complex, this museum is
the palaces of the Mycenaean kingdoms well worth visiting before seeing the rest of
declined some time around 1200 BC and the site. It initiates you into the mysteries of
the palace itself was set ablaze around 1100 Mycenae’s construction, its various incarna-
BC. Whether the destruction was the work tions and its excavation from 1841 onwards.
of outsiders or due to internal division be- The displays run the gamut from fine stirrup
tween the various Mycenaean kingdoms re- jars and fresco fragments to ritual objects,
mains unresolved. jewellery and bronze weaponry. Replicas of
As to whether the Agamemnon of legend archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann’s most
ever existed, if Homer’s Odyssey is to be be- spectacular Mycenae finds are also dis-
lieved he took part in the siege of Troy around played; the originals are in Athens’ National
1100 BC, whereas the tombs attributed to him Archaeological Museum.
and his wife date back to around 1300 BC.

AGAMEMNON, KING OF MYCENAE

Agamemnon, son of Atreus, is one of the principal characters in Homer’s epic poem
The Iliad and crops up regularly in Greek legend. The king of Mycenae, he led the Greeks
during the Trojan War.
Agamemnon and his brother Menelaus married the daughters of the King of Sparta,
Clytemnestra and Helen, respectively. According to legend, Helen then eloped with Paris,
the son of the Trojan king, taking all of her (rather valuable) possessions with her. This
was the catalyst for the Trojan War (her face ‘had launched a thousand ships’), as Agam-
emnon called on the Greek princes to unite in a war of revenge. Artemis, the goddess of
hunting, however, stalled the departing warships with adverse winds because Agamem-
non had angered her by claiming he was the better hunter. To make peace with Artemis,
Agamemnon was forced to sacrifice his daughter, Iphigenia. Artemis set the seas right
again, and the Greek ships sailed for Troy, where a 10-year siege ensued. In the war’s final
year, Agamemnon had a jealous quarrel with Achilles over the attentions of a captive
female, which could have cost the Greeks the war.
Finally, though, Agamemnon returned home victorious with his war spoils, which in-
cluded the Trojan princess Cassandra. His victory was short-lived: his wife Clytemnestra
was justifiably upset about her sacrificed daughter and murdered Agamemnon with the
help of her lover, Aegisthus. In classic dysfunctional-family Greek-legend style, Agamem-
non’s daughter, Electra, and her brother, Orestes, avenged their father’s death by then
murdering Aegisthus and Clytemnestra.
138
88 Getting There & Away begin southeast of the bus station. It’s 576
steps to the outer gate and 901 steps to
Two daily buses (excluding Sundays) head to
Mycenae from Nafplio (€2.60, one hour) and the entrance to the castle (we’ve counted!).
Argos (€1.60, 30 minutes). Buses stop both in Climb early and take water.
the village and at the ancient site. oArchaeological Museum MUSEUM
(% 27520 27502; Plateia Syntagmatos; adult/child
€3/free; h 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) Inside a splen-
Nafplio Ναύπλιο did Venetian building, this museum traces
POP 14,200
the social development of Argolis, from the
Nafplio, 12km southeast of Argos on the Ar- hunter-gatherers of the Fragthi cave to the
golic Gulf, occupies a knockout location on sophisticated Mycenaean-era civilisations,
a small port beneath the towering Palamidi through beautifully presented archaeolog-
fortress. It is graced with attractive narrow
Pe lo p o n n e se N

ical finds from the surrounding area. Ex-

streets, elegant Venetian houses, neoclassi- hibits range from Paleolithic fire middens,
cal mansions and interesting museums. It’s dating from 32,000 BC, to elaborately paint-
also full of quayside cafes, posh boutiques ed amphorae (c 520 BC). You may also spot
and many comfortable hotels and guest- the only existing bronze armour from near
houses, but it does get seriously overcrowd- Mycenae (3500 years old and complete with
ed in high season and holidays. boar-tusk helmet), a wealth of funereal of-
Ar
G

Nafplio was the first capital of Greece af- ferings and ceremonial clay masks.
etting
a golis
f plio T he r e & Away

ter Independence (between 1833 and 1834)

and has been a major port since the Bronze Peloponnese Folklore
Age. So strategic was its position that it had Foundation Museum MUSEUM
three fortresses: the massive principal for- (% 27520 28947; www.pli.gr; Vasileos Alexandrou
tress of Palamidi, the smaller Akronafplia 1; admission €2; h 9am-2pm Wed-Mon) Estab-
and the diminutive Bourtzi on an islet west lished by its philanthropic owner, Nafplio’s
of the old town. award-winning museum is a beautifully
arranged collection of folk costumes and
1 Sights & Activities household items from Nafplio’s 19th- and
early 20th-century history. Be wowed by the
oPalamidi Fortress FORTRESS intricate embroidery of traditional costumes
(% 27520 28036; adult/concession €4/free; and the heavy silver adornments; admire
h 8am-6.45pm) This vast, spectacular citadel, the turn-of-the-century couture and see if
reachable either by steep ascent on foot or a you can spot a horse-tricycle. The gift shop
short drive, stands on a 216m-high outcrop sells high-quality local crafts.
of rock that gives all-encompassing views of
Nafplio and the Argolic Gulf. It was built by Bourtzi FORTRESS
the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, and The island fortress of Bourtzi (1473), which
is regarded as a masterpiece of military lies about 600m west of the town’s port,
architecture in spite of being successfully has served variously as a pirate deterrent, a
stormed in one night by Greek troops in home for executioners to protect them from
1822, causing the Turkish garrison within to vengeance and a hotel. Note that the battle-
surrender without a fight. ments are identical in design to Moscow’s
Within its walls stands a series of inde- Kremlin; both it and Bourtzi were built by
pendent, strategically located bastions. The 15th-century Venetians. Boats to the island
most important, and best preserved, is the (return €4) leave from the northeastern end
western Agios Andreas Bastion, which of Akti Miaouli.
stands at the top of the steps from town. The
Komboloi Museum MUSEUM
former home of the garrison commander, it is
(% 27520 21618; www.komboloi.gr; Staïkopoulou
named after the tiny church in the courtyard.
25; adult/concession €2/free; h 9.30am-6.30pm,
The Miltiades Bastion, to the northeast,
hours vary seasonally) Whether or not you
is the largest of the bastions. It was used as
a prison for condemned criminals from 1840 wish to buy Nafplio’s most popular souve-
to 1920. War of Independence hero Theodor- nir item – komboloï (worry beads) – at the
os Kolokotronis spent several years here af- shop below, it’s well worth popping into
ter being condemned for treason. the incense-scented museum upstairs to
There are two main approaches to the learn what distinguishes the komboloï from
fortress. You can go via the road (taxis cost prayer beads and why the amber-mastic
about €10 one way) or tackle the steps that mix is so special. You may spot tiny wood-
 1 39
en skulls, black coral inlaid with mother-of- Tolo by taxi (around €12) or bus, depending
pearl and carved ivory among the adjacent on the schedule. There are at least two week-
collection of prayer beads belonging to as- ly departures (more in July and August).
sorted religions. Tickets are available at travel agencies.
National Gallery – Alexandros Nafplio Bike BICYCLE RENTAL
Soutzos Museum GALLERY (www.nafplio-bike.gr; Kipou 2; per day €15; h 9am-
(www.nationalgallery.gr; Sidiras Merarhias 23; 9pm Mon-Sat) This is the place to hire city
adult/concession €3/2, Mon free; h 10am-3pm and trekking bikes. Hourly rates available.
Mon, Thu & Sat, 10am-3pm & 5-8pm Wed & Fri, to
2pm Sun) This arm of the Athens National r Beaches
Gallery is housed in a stunningly restored Arvanitia Beach BEACH
neoclassical building. It features numerous This small pebble beach is just five minutes’

Pe lo p o n n e se N
seascapes and different thematic takes on walk south of town, tucked beside the Ak-
the 1821 Greek War of Independence, in- ronafplia fortress, past the Land Gate. For
cluding paintings by Theodoros Vryzakis a scenic stroll, take the blustery, cactus-
and Dionysios Tsokos, who are considered adorned path that skirts the headland from
the most important Greek artists of the the bottom of the promenade.
postwar years.
Karathona Beach BEACH

Ar
B
Church of Agios Spyridon CHURCH
A gorgeous pine-tree-lined 3km path runs

eaches
a golis
This 18th-century church was the site of an

f plio
from the car park next to Arvanitia Beach to
assassination of great political significance
the long, sandy Karathona Beach. It’s a flat,
to the Greeks. On 9 October 1831 Ioannis
easy walk, though the beach could be clean-
Kapodistrias, elected the first president of
an independent Greece in 1828, was stabbed er. Don’t feel like walking? Take 25 Martiou
and shot near the door of the church by east of town to the end of the road.
Konstantinos and Georgios Mavromichalis,
brother and son of the leader of the Maniots. z Festivals & Events
They had had a bitter disagreement with Ka- Nafplio is a good base for visits to Epidavros
podistrias over the spoils of victory. in July and August for performances at the
famous ancient theatre (p144) during the
Cruise to Saronic Gulf Islands BOAT TOUR Epidavros Festival, part of the larger cultural
(% 27250 59430; www.pegasus-cruises.gr; adult/ Hellenic Festival (p94).
child €34/17; h late Apr-late Sep) Pegasus Cruis-
es offers popular full-day trips to the islands Classical Music Festival MUSIC
of Hydra and Spetses from Tolo, 10km south- (www.nafplionfestival.gr; h late May-Jul) Nafplio
east of Nafplio. The tour stops for a couple hosts a classical-music festival, featuring
of hours in each place. You can get to/from Greek and international performers.

NAFPLIO’S BOUTIQUE SLEEPS

Nafplio’s streets burst with boutique hotels. These renovated former mansions vary in
style, though most have four to eight (rather compact) rooms with contemporary, period
or kitsch furnishings. Prices include cable TV. Note: all have steep internal stairs. We love
the following places:
Aetoma (% 27520 27373; www.nafplionhotel.com; Plateia Agios Spiridonos 2; d incl breakfast
€75-120; aW ) Intimate and comfortable, the Aetoma has dark, heavy and stylish furnish-
ings, and hospitable owners who go out of their way to be helpful. Generous traditional
breakfast included.
Adiandi (% 27520 22073; www.hotel-adiandi.com; Othonos 31; d incl breakfast €75-110, s/
ste incl breakfast €65/130; aW ) Rooms in this fun place are individually decorated with
bright colours, artistic door bedheads and marble sinks. A funky cafe-cum-breakfast-
room is downstairs.
Amymone (% 27520 99477; www.amymone.gr; Othonos 39; d incl breakfast €75-105, s/ste incl
breakfast €65/130; aiW ) Amymone is all about stencilled art, faux graffiti and Blaxploi-
tation silhouettes on funky door bedsteads. Will appeal to pop art fans. Mod cons and an
excellent breakfast included.
 140
Festivals
Ar
Pe lo p o n n e se N a golis
f plio & E vents

200 m
Nafplio e
# 00 0.1 miles
A B C D E F G
Bourtzi (100m) # Train
£ Tiryns (5km);

D
D
Station Faro Taverna (11km);

1
666 Argolic Gulf
#
. Argos (12km)
Stadium
1

#
.
Boats to #
.
0 0 0 0 0
Thisseos

Bouboulinas
0
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0
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#6 2
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0 0 0 0 Fougaro (700m);

Farmakop
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Vyronos
Siokou
00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 01â#
0 Plateia
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0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Kolokotronis
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66 6666
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em 0ú#00 0 0 0ú # 21 0 0 # Town
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No 23 20 ÿ
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0 0000 0 13 ÿ # Plateia 0 019 ú # Bus Station 8
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Moutzouridou
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Argolic Gulf Spiridonos
16 ÿ# F oto m ara Klymeni Traditional Homes (2.5km);
3 66 6666
66
6 Palamidi Fortress (4km); 3
Potamianou
Karathona Beach (6km)
#
.
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4

Karathona Fortress
D

Beach (3km) V#2

A B C D E F G
 141
4 Sleeping Pension Marianna HOTEL €€
(%27520 24256; www.pensionmarianna.gr; Pota-
oNafplion 1841 PENSION €
mianou 9; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast €50/75/95/105;
(%27520 24622; www.nafplion1841.gr; Kapo-
paW) For value and hospitality, it doesn’t
distriou 9; s/d incl breakfast €40/45; aW) Not
get better than this. The welcoming owner-
only does this delightful pension occupy a hosts, the warm Zotos brothers, epitomise
19th-century mansion, but its five bright Greek filoxenia (hospitality) and serve up
rooms offer contemporary creature comforts conviviality, travel advice and delicious break-
without diminishing the building’s character. fasts (comprising homemade produce where
Expect Cocomat mattresses, superior bed lin- possible). The squeaky-clean rooms open
ens, climate control, hydro-massage showers onto terraces where you can feast on the kill-
and plasma-screen TVs. The hostess is a de- er view from your hilltop position. Rates are
light and so is the breakfast. €5 less per person without breakfast.

Pe lo p o n n e se N
Pension Eleni PENSION €
Grand Sarai BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(% 27520 27036; www.pensioneleni.gr; Zygomala
(%27520 22563; www.grandsarainafplio.com; Foto-
5; d/tr/ste incl breakfast €45/50/75; p a W )
mara & Potamianou 3; s incl breakfast €70-145, d incl
This friendly pension, tucked away down breakfast €80-150; W) A beautifully renovated
a quiet street, is run by a Greek grandma pink mansion that’s sleek and modern on the
who will fuss over you, her hospitality tran- inside. Stylish rooms are decorated in neutral

A leeping
S
scending the language barrier. The en suite

r
a golis
tones; most boast views, some have jacuzzis.

f plio
rooms share a warm colour scheme and Extensive breakfasts using local produce are
sea views; the ‘superior’ rooms come with served in an intimate setting downstairs.
thimble-sized balconies. Park in the nearby
square. 3Sixty° Hotel & Suites BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
(% 27525 00501; www.3sixtyhotel.gr; cnr Koletti &
Klymeni Traditional Homes APARTMENT €€
Papanikolau 26; ste incl breakfast €200-250; aW )
(%27520 96194; www.klymeni.gr; studio/apt incl
Ascend the spiral staircase beneath the
breakfast €85/105; pW) On a hillside over-
enormous glittering chandelier and you’re
looking the peaceful countryside, these faced with a handful of sumptuous suites.
traditional stone houses offer comfort (lux- Each is individually decorated in classic
urious beds, vast living areas, Jacuzzi-style creams, charcoals and browns but features
bathtubs) and respite from town traffic while welcome crimson, yellow and even pop-art
remaining within easy reach of Nafplio. accents. Oversized beds and bathrooms are
Helpful owner Alexander provides breakfast top-notch, and breakfast is extensive – hot
goodies. Take 25 Martiou out of town for dishes cooked to order.
2.5km towards the Palamidi Fortress.

Nafplio
æ Top Sights 13 Grand Sarai ..............................................D3
1 Archaeological Museum ........................ C2 14 Nafplion 1841............................................C2
2 Palamidi Fortress.....................................F4 15 Pension Eleni............................................C3
16 Pension Marianna....................................D3
æ Sights
3 Arvanitia Beach........................................E4 ú Eating
4 Church of Agios Spyridon...................... D3 3Sixty°............................................... (see 9)
5 Komboloi Museum ................................. D2 17 Antica Gelateria di Roma........................C2
6 National Gallery – Alexandros 18 Carrefour Express................................... E2
Soutzos Museum................................. G2 19 Mezedopoleio O Noulis........................... E3
7 Peloponnese Folklore Foundation 20 MitaTo.......................................................C2
Museum ................................................ D2 21 Ta Fanaria.................................................D2
22 To Omorfo Tavernaki..............................D2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
8 Nafplio Bike ............................................. G3 û Drinking & Nightlife
23 Es Aei.........................................................C2
ÿ Sleeping 24 O Mavros Gatos.......................................D2
9 3Sixty° Hotel & Suites............................ D2
10 Adiandi ..................................................... D2 þ Shopping
11 Aetoma..................................................... D3 25 Glykos Peirasmos....................................D3
12 Amymone ................................................ D2 26 Karonis......................................................D2
142
5 Eating To Omorfo Tavernaki GREEK €
Antica Gelateria di Roma GELATERIA € (% 27520 25944; Vasilissis Olgas 1; mains €8-
(% 27520 23520; www.anticagelateria.gr; cnr Far- 15; h lunch & dinner; v ) Ample servings of
makopoulou & Komninou; ice cream from €2.50; homemade delights in a convivial restau-
h 10am-11pm) The only ‘true’ gelato shop in rant adorned with antique oddments. The
Nafplio is still holding back the competition. mezedhes plates (zucchini balls, feta with
Italian gelati maestros Marcello, Claudia honey, tzatziki etc…) are particularly good.
and Monica Raffo greet you with: ‘Bongior-
no – this is an Italian gelati shop!’ Only nat-
o3Sixty° INTERNATIONAL €€
(% 27525 00501; www.3sixtycafe.gr; Papanikolaou
ural and local ingredients are used and it’s
26 & Koletti; mains €10-19; h breakfast, lunch &
all made on the premises.
dinner; W v ) Nafplio punches above its culi-
Mezedopoleio O Noulis GREEK € nary weight at the most imaginative restau-
Pe lo p o n n e se N

(% 27520 25541; Moutzouridou 22; mezedhes €5- rant in town. Sophisticated fare includes the
11; h lunch & dinner; v ) Popular with locals likes of smoky aubergine imam with veal,
and decked out with prints of ye olde Naf- wild mushroom risotto with truffle oil, and
plio, this family-run restaurant does seafood lamb stuffed with goat Gruyère. Salads are
(grilled calamari, battered whitebait) and equally creative. The sultry bar serves potent
vegetarian mezedhes particularly well. signature cocktails (we’re fans of Legendary
Star) and numerous Greek wines.
A ating
E r

Ta Fanaria
a golis

GREEK €
f plio

(% 27520 27141; www.fanaria.gr; Staikopoulou 14;

mains €7-15; h lunch & dinner; v ) This intimate
taverna wins points not just for the attentive
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Es Aei WINE BAR
service but also for its superior selection of
(%27520 22884; Staikopulou 8; glass of wine €4.50;
vegetarian dishes (think spinach and feta
h3pm-late) Mismatched furniture, bare light
pie, okra stew, oven-baked veggies) along-
bulbs and posters on the walls conjure up a
side the dolmadhes and other Greek classics.
grungy, student hangout image, but the jazz
MitaTo KEBAB € and candlelight transform this joint into
(Staikopoulou 14; mains €3-12; h lunch & dinner) A something mellower. Sample from an exten-
worthy contender for Nafplio’s best souvla- sive list of Greek wines, accompanied by a
kia and gyros (meat slivers cooked on a ver- succinct selection of excellent tapas.
tical rotisserie, eaten with pitta bread), this
O Mavros Gatos BAR
grilled meat joint has whimsical decor and
(Sofroni 1; h 8.30am-late) A chilled-out cafe
a meaty menu extensive enough to satisfy
by day, buzzy bar by night, with DJs some
most carnivorously inclined clients.
nights. There are comfy seats outside and an
Fougaro CAFE € interior decorated with vintage adverts.
(www.fougaro.gr; Asklipiou 98; mains €8-12;
h6pm-midnight Wed-Sun) Lovely cafe-restaurant 7 Shopping
and cultural space 3km from Nafplio in a con- Glykos Peirasmos FOOD
verted canning factory, on the road to Epida- (Plapouta 10; h 10am-9pm) The place for deli-
vros. Good coffee, light bites for lunch and a cious chocolate, baklava, loukoumi (Turkish
smarter dinner menu; particularly good dur- delight) and honey-sodden walnut cake.
ing events. Look for the fougaro (chimney).
Karonis WINE
Carrefour Express SUPERMARKET € (%27520 24446; www.karoniswineshop.gr; Amalias
(cnr Sygrou & Flessa; h 8am-9pm Mon-Sat) Cen- 5; h8.30am-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat) Wine
tral, reasonably well stocked supermarket. enthusiasts can find a fine selection of wines
from all over the country, especially Nemean
Faro Taverna SEAFOOD €
reds and spirits. Wine tastings offered.
(%27520 27704; Mili; mains €8-15; hnoon-11pm)
Locally famous and well worth the 10-minute
drive from Nafplio, this taverna, run by the
88 Information
grandson of the original owner, sits right on Hospital (% 27523 61100; Kountouriotou 1)
Mili Beach. You can’t go wrong with the catch National Bank of Greece (Plateia Syntagma-
of the day, be it freshly grilled squid, red mul- tos) Has ATMs.
let, fresh sardines or anchovies. Post office (cnr Sygrou & Sidiras Merarhias;
h 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri)
 143
Staikos Tours (%27520 27950; Bouboulinas
50; h8.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm) Helpful out- Epidavros Επίδαυρος
fit offers Avis rental cars and full travel s­ ervices.
In its day Epidavros (%27530 22009; adult/
Tourist police (% 27520 98728; Eleftherias 2)
concession €6/3; h8am-7pm), 30km east of
Nafplio, was famed as far away as Rome as
88 Getting There & Away a place of miraculous healing. Visitors came
The KTEL Argolis bus station (% 27520 27423; great distances to this Sanctuary of Asclepius
www.ktel-argolidas.gr; Syngrou) has buses to (god of medicine), set amid pine-clad hills, to
Athens (€13.10, 2½ hours, 11 to 13 daily) via
seek a cure for their ailments. Today visitors
Corinth Isthmus (Peloponnese) KTEL bus sta-
tion (€6.50, 1½ hours). Other services include are drawn more to this World Heritage site’s
the following: remarkably well-preserved theatre, which
Argos (€1.60, 30 minutes, hourly) remains a venue during the Hellenic Festival

Pe lo p o n n e se T
(p94) for Classical Greek theatre, first per-
Epidavros (€2.90, 45 minutes, six Monday to
Friday, four Saturday, one Sunday) formed here up to 2000 years ago.
Galatas (€8.20, two hours, two daily except
weekends)
History
Kranidi (€7.70, two hours, four Monday to Legend has it that Asclepius was the son of
Friday, three Saturday, one Sunday) Apollo and Coronis. While giving birth to
Mycenae (€2.90, one hour, three Monday to Asclepius, Coronis was killed by the jealous

A ir
G etting
rgolis
Friday, two Saturday) Apollo, who’d found out that she’d been un-

yns T he r e & Away

Tolo (€1.60, 15 minutes, nine to 12 daily) faithful to him. Apollo took his son to Mt
Tripoli (€6.70, 1½ hours, two daily) Pelion, where the physician centaur Chi-
ron instructed the boy in the healing arts.
88 Getting Around Asclepius became a healer of such great
renown that he brought a man back from
Call a taxi (% 27520 29096) or head to the
the dead, which angered Hades, the god of
rank on Sygrou. Car-hire agencies include the
following:
the underworld, who asked Zeus to strike
Asclepius down. Zeus did so, provoking, in
Avis (% 27520 24160; www.avis.gr; Boubouli-
nas 51) turn, the wrath of Apollo, and Asclepius was
eventually deified.
Bounos Rent a Car (% 27520 24390; www.
bounos-carrental.com; Sygrou 14) Apollo was worshipped at Epidavros in
Mycenaean and Archaic times, but by the
Hermes Car Rental (% 27520 25308; www.
hermestravel.gr; Sygrou 18) 4th century BC he had been superseded by
his son. Epidavros became acknowledged as
the birthplace of Asclepius. Although the af-
flicted worshipped Asclepius at sanctuaries
Tiryns Τίρυνθα throughout Greece, the two most important
The Mycenaean acropolis of Tiryns (% 27520 sites were at Epidavros and on the island of
22657; adult/concession €3/2; h 8am-7pm), 4km Kos. The fame of the Epidavros sanctuary
north of Nafplio, is the apogee of Mycenae- spread, and when a plague raged in Rome,
an architectural achievement. Legend has it Livy and Ovid came to Epidavros to seek help.
that its massive walls, 7m thick in parts, were
built by a Cyclops. You can stroll around the
immense stonework and explore the Upper VISITING EPIDAVROS
and Lower Citadels, but the vaulted passage-
ways, the secret stairway and the impressive If visiting Epidavros on your own by car,
gallery are off-limits. Any Nafplio–Argos bus follow the signs to Ancient Theatre of
can drop you outside the site. Epidavros, and not to P Epidavros (Paleia
Built in the 13th century BC, this World Epidavros) or A Epidavros (Archaia Epi-
Heritage site in its heyday was second only davros) – the two latter are both signs to
to Mycenae in terms of regional importance. the seaside village of Ancient Epidavros.
The layout of some of the ruins is easy to Incidentally, Archaia Epidavros (formerly
make out, and there are few crowds. The site Paleia Epidavros) is home to the so-
has little in the way of signs or descriptions, called ‘small theatre’, also used for some
so it’s worth buying Tiryns (by Dr Alkestis Hellenic Festival (p144) performances;
Papademetriou; €8) at the ticket office. the ‘large theatre’ referred to on festival
programs is at the main Epidavros site.
144

PEREGRINATIONS OF PAUSANIAS
Lonely Planet and its alternatives were beaten to the publishing of guidebooks by nearly
20 centuries. The traveller and geographer Pausanias wrote what is believed to be the
first – and most definitive – ‘guidebook’ for tourists in the 2nd century AD. His work, De-
scription of Greece (sometimes known as Tour or Itinerary of Greece), is a series of 10
volumes in which he describes most of Greece as seen at the time (between AD 143 and
161), covering the regions of Attica, Boeotia, Phocis and Ozolian Locris, plus the regions
that make up much of the Peloponnese: Corinthia, Lakonia, Messinia, Elia, Achaïa and
Arkadia. Classical Greek scholars, historians and archaeologists regard it as an extremely
important historical work for its insight into places, people, monuments and sites, as well
as associated facts and legends. Pausanias is believed to be from Lydia in Asia Minor and
Pe lo p o n n e se T

travelled extensively throughout Greece, Macedonia, Italy and parts of Asia and Africa.

It is believed that licks from snakes were katagogeion, beyond which is the former
one of the curative practices at the sanctuary. gymnasium-cum-banquet-hall in which the
Asclepius is normally shown with a serpent, Romans built an odeum. It was here that the
which – by renewing its skin – symbolises re- Festival of Asclepieia took place.
A iights
S

The path meanders past the remains of

rrgolis

juvenation. Other treatments provided at the

the stadium on your left. Ahead is the cir-
yns

sanctuary involved diet instruction, herbal

medicines and occasionally even surgery. cular tholos (built 360–320 BC and under
The sanctuary also served as an entertain- heavy reconstruction at research time), orig-
ment venue; and every four years, during inally surrounded by two circles of columns:
the Festival of Asclepieia, Epidavros hosted Doric and Corinthian. In the centre there
dramas and athletic competitions. used to be a small labyrinth and one of the
theories is that patients were put in there for
1 Sights a ‘healing encounter’ with snakes.
To the northeast are the foundations of
oTheatre of Epidavros HISTORIC SITE
the Temple of Asclepius and next to them
(site adult/concession €6/3; h8am-7pm) One of is the abaton. The therapies practised here
the best-preserved Classical Greek structures seemed to have depended on the influence
in existence, now used for performances of of the mind upon the body. It is believed that
Ancient Greek drama during the annual Hel- patients were given a pep talk by a priest on
lenic Festival, the 3rd-century BC theatre is the powers of Asclepius, then put to sleep in
the undisputed highlight of Epidavros. It’s the abaton to dream of a visitation by the
renowned for its amazing acoustics; a coin god. The dream would hold the key to the
dropped in the theatre’s centre can be heard healing process.
from the highest seat. Built of limestone, East is the Sanctuary of Egyptian Gods,
the theatre seats up to 14,000 people. Its which indicates that the cult of Asclepius
entrance is flanked by restored Corinthian was an adaptation of the cult of Imhotep,
pilasters and the foundations of the ancient worshipped in Egypt for his healing powers.
stage are beyond the circle.
Museum MUSEUM
Sanctuary of Asclepius RUIN (adult/concession incl site entry €6/3; h8am-7pm)
(site adult/concession €6/3; h8am-7pm) A short Between the Sanctuary of Asclepius and the
walk from the Theatre of Epidavros, and Theatre of Epidavros, this museum houses
dotted with pine trees, lie the ruins of the statuary (mostly copies) that once adorned
Sanctuary of Asclepius, dedicated to the the Temple of Asclepius, stone inscriptions
god of healing. The ruins include the huge recording miraculous cures, some alarming-
katagogeion, a hostelry for pilgrims and pa- looking surgical instruments, votive offerings
tients, the large banquet hall in which the and fragments of intricately carved reliefs
Romans built an odeum (a room for musical from the ceiling of the sanctuary’s tholos.
performances), and the stadium – the venue
for the Festival of Asclepieia’s athletic com- z Festivals & Events
petitions. Just beyond is the remarkable tho- Athens & Epidavros Festival THEATRE
los building, the Temple of Asclepius and (% 210 928 2900, 27530 22026; www.greekfestival.
the abaton. You first reach the large, square gr/en; h Jul & Aug) The Theatre of Epidavros
 145
(p144) stages both modern theatre and An- 88 Getting There & Away
cient Greek dramas during the annual Ath- Regular boat services run to Piraeus via Hydra
ens and Epidavros Festival, part of the larger and Spetses. There are bus services (% 27540
cultural Hellenic Festival (p94). Tickets can 21237; www.ktel-argolidas.gr) between Kranidi
be bought in Epidavros at the theatre box of- and Nafplio (€7.70, two hours, four on weekdays,
fice, online or from Athens’ box office (p95). three on Saturday, one on Sunday), and local
There are special bus services available from buses from Kranidi to Ermioni (€1.85, 10 min-
Athens (around €25, two hours) and Nafplio utes, one or two daily) and Porto Heli (€1.85, 10
(around €10, 45 minutes). minutes, one to two daily).

88 Getting There & Away

There are buses from Nafplio to Epidavros
(€2.90, 45 minutes, six Monday to Friday, four ARKADIA ΑΡΚΑΔΙΑ

Pe lo p o n n e se S
Saturday, one Sunday). The picturesque rural prefecture of Arkadia
occupies much of the central Peloponnese.
Its name evokes images of grassy meadows,
Southwest Argolis forested mountains, gurgling streams and
Very few travellers take the time to venture shady grottoes. According to mythology,
to the southwestern heel of the Argolis pen- it was a favourite haunt of Pan, the flute-

Ao
G
insula, yet the zigzagging drive (or bike ride) playing, cloven-hooved god of nature.

r
etting
kadia
u thwest
along the east coast, past the pretty coastal Almost encircled by mountain rang-
town of Galatas and a scattering of pictur- es, Arkadia was remote enough in ancient
esque houses across the narrow bay that is times to remain largely untouched by the

T heArregolis
Poros, is absolutely spectacular. battles and intrigues of the rest of Greece,
The western part of the peninsula, centred and was the only region of the Peloponnese
on the agricultural town of Kranidi, features not conquered by the Dorians. The region is
the small resorts of Porto Heli, 4km south of

& Away
dotted with crumbling medieval villages, re-
Kranidi, and Ermioni, 4km east of Kranidi. mote monasteries and Frankish castles, and
Both offer convenient connections to the Sa- is popular among fresh-air fiends.
ronic Gulf islands of Hydra and Spetses. Ad-
ditional Hydra services fly across the water 88 Getting There & Away
from Metochi, essentially a waterfront car
KTEL Arkadia (% 27102 22560; www.ktelark
park, around 10km east of Ermioni. adias.gr; Plateia Kolokotroni) in Tripoli is the
Off the main road between Kranidi and departure point for buses to Stemnitsa (€5, one
Epidavros, 1km west of the village of Didy- hour, one daily Monday to Friday), Dimitsana
ma, don’t miss the Didyma Caves F, (€6.50, 1½ hours, one daily) and Andritsena
two extraordinary sinkholes. The caves col- (€8.60, 1½ hours, one daily).
lapsed thousands of years ago, leaving large This office also handles buses to Athens (via
crater-like holes. One hides a tiny Byzantine Corinth Isthmus, €15, up to 14 daily), Olympia
church, constructed under a crevice. (€12.40, one daily), Pyrgos (€14, one daily),

BOAT SERVICES FROM ARGOLIS

Regular Hellenic Seaways (% 27540 32408; www.hellenicseaways.gr) high-speed boats depart
from Porto Heli to Piraeus via Spetses and Hydra, and from Ermioni to Piraeus via Hydra. The
cheapest and most frequent boats to Hydra from Argolis are Hydra Lines (% 22980 52961; www.
hydralines.gr; one way/return €6.50/13) from Metochi; park for free by the waterfront or leave
your car in a secure, shaded car park (€5). Caïques shuttle between Galatas and Poros (€1,
five minutes; €1.50 between midnight and 5am). From Poros there are four daily fast boats to
Piraeus (€6.50, 1¼ hours).

DESTINATION PORT TIME FARE FREQUENCY

Hydra Ermioni 20-40min €7.50 3 daily
Hydra Poros 30min €12.50 4 daily
Hydra Metochi 20min €6.50 6-7 daily
Spetses Porto Heli 10min €5.50 3 daily
Spetses Ermioni 25min €7.50 2 daily
146
Nafplio (€6.70, two daily) and Patra (€16.20, one
to two daily). Stemnitsa Στεμνίτσα
The bus stop (% 27102 42086; www.ktelark- POP 200
adias.gr; Lagopati, Tripoli) handles departures Stemnitsa (stem-nee-tsah), 26km northwest
to Sparta (€5.40, nine daily) and Kalamata of Tripoli, is a striking village of stone houses
(€8.10, two daily on weekdays). and Byzantine churches, known for its silver
and gold craftsmanship. If you want to peek
in any churches, ask around for the keys.
Central Arkadia The starting (or finishing) point for the
To the west of Tripoli is a tangle of precipitous Menalon Trail (p146), Stemnitsa is a good
ravines and narrow roads that wind their way base for hikers.
through the medieval-village-speckled valleys
of the Menalon Mountains. This is the heart 4 Sleeping & Eating
Pe lo p o n n e se C

of Arkadia, where you’ll find some of the oMpelleiko B&B €€

most breathtaking mountainous scenery in (%6976607967, 27950 81286; www.mpelleiko.gr;
the Peloponnese, along with some excellent s/d/tr incl breakfast €65/75/85; W) The ultrahos-
hiking opportunities (and skiing in winter). pitable and knowledgeable English-speaking
Having your own wheels is a real boon here, owner, Nena, has converted her family home
as public transport to the main villages is lim- (dating from 1650) into a stylish, contempo-
A leeping
S

ited to one or two buses per day.

r
ent
kadia
r al A&r Ekadia

THE MENALON TRAIL

The well-signposted, 72.5km Menalon Trail (www.menalontrail.eu) stretches from
Stemnitsa to Lagkadia, passing through the dramatic scenery of the Lousios Gorge, the
ating

western slopes of Mt Menalon, the Mylaon River valley and the Gortynian Mountains.
Completed in May 2015 by a group of volunteers, the trail is divided into eight sections of
varying difficulty, the Stemnitsa–Dimitsana leg being the most popular.
The eight trail sections are as follows:
Stemnitsa–Dimitsana (12.5km, 4½ hours) A picturesque descent into the Lousios
Gorge past Prodromos Monastery, followed by an ascent to the Old and New Philosop-
hou Monasteries. The trail then follows the course of the river before leading up to the
Open Air Water Power Museum. From the Prodromos Monastery there’s a worthwhile
detour south to Ancient Gortys.
Dimitsana–Zygovisti (4.2km, 1½ hours) A gentle ascent past St Apostoli Monastery, and
along footpaths and dirt roads through fields.
Zygovisti–Elati (15km, five hours) This section ascends to the Bilali Pass over the West-
ern Menalon massif, with some steep sections and an optional detour to Pliovouni Peak
(1643m).
Elati–Vytina (8.5km, 2¼ hours) Partially paved, wooded trail that passes by some
ancient ruins and abandoned windmills.
Vytina–Nymphasia (5.6km, 1½ hours) The trail descends to a short gorge before
ascending gently through a rock-and-shrub landscape.
Nymphasia–Magouliana (9km, 3½ hours) Through oak and spruce forests, the trail
descends to Kernitsas Monastery and passes by Sfyrida Hermitage and Gavros Spring.
Magouliana–Valtesiniko (7.5km, two hours) The path descends past an old sanitorium
and follows a riverbed.
Valtesiniko–Lagkadia (13.9km, five hours) The path ascends to a Byzantine fortress, then
passes through open country and traverses valleys before ending at a war memorial.
You can download the excellent digital app Menalon Trail topoGuide for detailed
offline maps and numerous points of interest. If you’re not digitally inclined, the Anavasi
Topo25 Lousios 8.51; 1:22,000 map is very handy for the Lousios Gorge section and the
surrounding villages.
Of the villages, Stemnitsa, Dimitsana, Valtesiniko and Lagkadia all have places to stay
and eat, and you can pick up provisions at Vytina, Nymphasia and Magouliana.
 1 47
rary guesthouse perched above the village. through the region’s pre-industrial past. It
You can even sleep in the former ‘donkey occupies the old Agios Yiannis mill complex,
basement’. Breakfast includes homemade 1.6km south of town (signposted), where a
organic produce and is served in a beautiful spring-fed stream once supplied power for
room with an open fireplace. a succession of mills spread down the hill-
side. The lush grounds are criss-crossed
Xenonas Tsarbou BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
with channels alive with rushing water that
(% 27950 81406; www.xenonas-tsarbou.gr; d power the fully operational fulling mill, flour
incl breakfast from €60; pW ) This delightful mill and gunpowder mill, the last having
guesthouse is a happy merging of a convert- provided ammunition during the Greek War
ed historic stone building with contempo- of Independence.
rary decor, its compact rooms trimmed with
gold and velvet. There’s a cosy bar with fire- Trekking Hellas OUTDOORS

Pe lo p o n n e se C
place for post-hike relaxation, and hospita- (% 27910 25978, 6974459753; www.trekkinghellas.
ble hostess Christina prepares an extensive gr) Trekking Hellas offers various activities,
breakfast spread. including white-water rafting (€50 to €80)
on the Lousios River and half-day guided
Gerousia GREEK €
treks along the Lousios Gorge (€20 to €50).
(mains €7-12; h breakfast, lunch & dinner) A din- Contact them in advance.
ing establishment since 1870, this appealing

Ar
G
cafe on the square is a good place to linger 4 Sleeping

ent
etting
kadia
over a coffee, glass of wine or an assortment
Kazakou Guesthouse B&B €

r al TAhe
of traditional Greek dishes.
(% 27950 31660; www.xenonaskazakou.gr; d/tr
88 Getting There & Away incl breakfast €51/60; W ) This rambling stone

r kadia
house above central Dimitsana features
There is one bus in each direction on weekdays

r e & Away
between Tripoli and Dimitsana via Stemnitsa spacious rooms with wooden floors, a vast
(€4.10, one hour). A taxi to Dimitsana costs breakfast served in the vaulted lounge and
around €10, to Prodromos Monastery €15, to friendly owners. Wi-fi only works in the
Ancient Gortys €25 and to the Philosophou lounge and the location is either a boon or
Monasteries €20. a bane, depending on whether you enjoy the
sound of church bells.
Dimitsana Δημητσάνα oAmanites BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
POP 340 (% 27950 31090; www.amanites.gr; d/studio incl
Built amphitheatrically on two hills at the breakfast €65/80; p W ) This lovely place, a
beginning of the Lousios Gorge, Dimitsa- converted historic home, has seven elegant
na, 11km north of Stemnitsa, is a delightful rooms with heavy drapes and tasteful fab-
medieval village. This small place played a rics. Four rooms have front-facing balconies
significant role in the country’s struggle for overlooking the gorge; others have kitchen-
self-determination. Its Greek school, found- ettes. Delightful English-speaking owner Pa-
ed in 1764, was an important spawning nos goes out of his way to be helpful.
ground for the ideas leading to the upris-
ings against the Turks. Its students includ- Enastron Guesthouse B&B €€

ed Bishop Germanos of Patra and Patriarch (% 27950 31684; www.xenonasenastron.gr; d incl

Gregory V, who was hanged by the Turks in breakfast €65; W ) This appealing guesthouse
retaliation for the massacre in Tripoli. The is distinguished not just by the friendliness
village also had a number of gunpowder fac- of and helpfulness of its owners, but also
tories and a branch of the secret Filiki Eteria by the meticulous attention to detail. The
(Friendly Society), where Greeks met to dis- spacious wooden-beamed rooms come with
cuss the revolution. Today, this sleepy village contemporary fittings and excellent bath-
is hiker central in summer and full of skiing rooms, and the extensive breakfast buffet
weekenders in winter. comprises fresh local produce.

1 Sights & Activities 5 Eating & Drinking

Open Air Water Power Museum MUSEUM Most of the village tavernas serve typical
(% 27950 31630; www.piop.gr; adult/concession mountain fare, such as game casseroles or
€3/1.50; h 10am-6pm Wed-Mon) This excel- roasts, rooster in red wine and fasoladha
lent little museum is an entertaining romp (bean soup).
148

Leonidio to Geraki
SUSTAINABLE FOOD SOJOURN The drive (or bike ride) from Leonidio,
76km south of Argos, over the Parnonas
Zerzova (% 27950 31753, 6932847358;
Mountains to the village of Geraki in Lako-
Panaghia; mains €7-15; h lunch & dinner
nia, 48km away, is one of the most scenic
Fri-Mon Sep-May; v ), a tiny eatery 14km
in the Peloponnese. An archetypal white-
southwest of Dimitsana in the village
washed village, Leonidio is dramatically sit-
of Panaghia, ticks all the right boxes.
uated at the mouth of the Badron Gorge,
Sustainable practices? Tick – the
with sheer red cliffs looming above it.
husband-and-wife team collect all wild
For the first 12km, the road snakes west
herbs and cultivate their own produce.
up the Badron Gorge, climbing slowly away
Home cooking? Tick – even Greek
Pe lo p o n n e se K

from the river until at times the water is no

grandmothers are happy to come here.
more than a silver ribbon far below. The road
Traditional? Tick again – it’s in a lovely
then leaves the Badron and climbs rapidly
old building with a cellar below.
towards Kosmas on dramatic hairpin bends.
Just before the top of the climb, there’s a
Me Meraki PIZZA € road to the left leading to Moni Panagias
(% 27950 31113; pizza from €7; h lunch & dinner; Elonis, a monastery perched precariously
L akonia
G

v ) Affable Chicago transplant Maria has on the mountainside.

yno
etting

returned to her mother’s home village and It’s another 14km up from the monastery
opened a pizza parlour. Come here for satis- to the peaceful mountain village of Kosmas.
u r iaT he r e & A r o u nd

fying homemade pizza and the lowdown on It makes an ideal rest stop: you can admire
Dimitsana. the stone cathedral or try the town special-
ity (goat) at one of the tavernas beneath the
To Kapilio Ton Athonaton STEAK €€
huge plane trees. After Kosmas the road gen-
(mains €5-18; h lunch & dinner Thu-Tues) The tly descends to the village of Geraki, where
summer terrace overlooking the gorge, this you can check out the appealing churches
place is sought out by discerning carnivores before heading 40km west to Sparta, or con-
for its meaty specials – roast lamb, pork tinuing south to Monemvasia.
chops, locally made sausage… Note to cyclists: this route is even more
Kato Apo To Roloi WINE BAR dramatic (and easier on the muscles) if done
(glass of wine €3; h lunch & dinner; W ) The ‘Un- in reverse order.
der the Clock’ cafe is the spot to unwind af-
ter a day’s hiking. Look down at the gorge
with a large glass of wine or an expertly LAKONIA ΛΑΚΩΝΙΑ
mixed cocktail (€7.50) in hand. The region of Lakonia occupies almost iden-
tical boundaries to the powerful mountain-
88 Getting There & Around skirted kingdom ruled by King Menelaus
There is one daily bus in each direction on in Mycenaean times. It is home to legends,
weekdays between Tripoli and Dimitsana (€5, 1½ including the city of Sparta and the spec-
hours). A taxi to Stemnitsa costs around €10, to tacular ruins of Mystras, the Byzantine
Monastery of Philosophou €15 and to Ancient Empire’s last stronghold. Dominating the
Gortys €25. landscape are two massive mountain rang-
es, the Taÿgetos Mountains in the west and
the Parnonas Mountains in the east. These
Kynouria Κυνουρία taper away to create the central and eastern
Kynouria is the coastal region of Arkadia. fingers of the Peloponnese.
It covers a narrow strip of territory that English speakers can thank the Lakoni-
stretches south from the tiny village of Kiv- ans for the word ‘laconic’.
eri, 41km east of Tripoli, to Kosmas, perched
high in the Parnonas Mountains. Much of
the land is incredibly rugged, with a narrow Sparta Σπάρτη
coastal plain and very little fertile ground. POP 16,200
In ancient times the region was contested Sparta, fearing no one, was without city
by Argos and Sparta – the Argives held sway walls or fortification, which is probably why
in the north and the Spartans in the south. so few traces are left of a remarkable people.
 1 49
At the height of their power, Greece’s tough- about its immense importance in millen-
est, incorruptible, legendary warriors tri- nia of Greek life. Immerse yourself in olive
umphed over Athens and the rest of Greece oil’s many uses (cooking, fuel, ritual, per-
in the Peloponnesian Wars (431–404 BC). fume-making). Check out the magnificent
However, the decisive defeat by the Thebans reconstructions of olive presses in the court-
in the Battle of Leuctra in 371 BC was the yard, ranging from prehistoric to Byzan-
beginning of the end for Sparta, which was tine. Finally, marvel at the minute working
followed by successive subjugation by the models (press the button!) that demonstrate
Macedonians, Romans, Goths and Slavs. changes in pressing technology.
The town was refounded in AD 1834 on
the orders of King Otto. Mindful of history, Ancient Sparta RUIN

Otto and his court felt that since Athens was Few buildings dating back to the height of
to be rebuilt to reflect its former glory, so too Sparta’s greatness have been left standing.

Pe lo p o n n e se S
should Sparta. He didn’t succeed, though a Still it’s worthwhile to wander to the north
few ruins attest to its ancient pre-eminence. end of town to see the ruined theatre and the
Most visitors pass through on their way to Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou against
and from the Byzantine glories of Mystras. the backdrop of the snowcapped Taÿgetos
Mountains, as well as the Sanctuary of Ar-
1 Sights temis Orthia on the northern outskirts of
Sparta. To get here, head to the King Leoni-

L akonia
oMuseum of the Olive

ights
pa r ta
das statue that belligerently hefts its sword
& Greek Olive Oil MUSEUM and shield at the northern end of Paleolo-
(% 27310 89315; www.piop.gr; Othonos Amalias gou. When the Persians attacked Sparta and
129; adult/concession €3/1.50; h 10am-6pm told them to lay down their weapons, the
Wed-Mon) This beautifully designed museum Spartans’ response, immortalised beneath
initiates you into the mysteries of the olive Leonidas’ feet, was ‘Molon labe’ (Come and
from its initial appearance in the Mediterra- get them). West of here, signs point the way
nean in 60,000 BC to the present day. Learn to the acropolis.

GROWING UP SPARTAN
Maybe you saw the gory but brilliant film 300, imaginatively based on the battle of Ther-
mopylae in 480 BC, one of the most talked about battles in history. Three hundred elite
Spartan soldiers held an entire Persian army (whose force numbered several thousand)
at bay at the pass (‘hot gates’) of Thermopylae (near today’s Lamia). For three days,
wave upon wave of Persian soldiers fell upon their deadly spears and unbridgeable
tortoise-shell formation. What kind of soldiers could display such bravery? Ones raised
in Sparta, where warfare was held to be the only occupation worthy of its men and where
warriors embodied ferocious, self-sacrificing martial supremacy, living (and very often
dying) by the motto ‘return with your shield or on it’.
If you were born male and deemed too weak and feeble to make it to adulthood, you
would be left on the slopes of the Taÿgetos Mountains to die. Passed the first round?
Then at the age of seven, you’d be plucked from the bosom of your family and sent to live
in barracks with other boys, to undergo the military education system known as agoge,
designed to build physical and emotional toughness. You’d be habitually underfed to
encourage you to survive by living off the land and by stealing, but punished harshly if
caught. You’d undergo brutal institutionalised beatings, which you’d be expected to bear
without showing pain. At the age of 12, you’d form a sexual bond with an older mentor,
who’d be responsible for your training. Upon turning 18, you’d become a member of the
army until the age of 30, when you’d finally be granted Spartan citizenship, if you had
proved yourself worthy.
Born a girl? Then you’d be better off than anywhere else in Greece at the time. You
would eat the same food as your brothers, participate in sport and exercise nude. You’d
be well educated and literate, and forbidden to marry until in your early 20s, which would
spare you from teenage pregnancies and miscarriages. Then when you finally did marry,
your husband-to-be would ‘abduct’ you, and you’d have your head shaved and be dressed
in men’s clothing before the marriage could be consummated. (That’d be to make your
husband comfortable, since he wouldn’t have spent much time around women.)
1 50
From the main cobbled road, a footpath Sparta’s illustrious past, many unlabelled
runs left (west) through olive groves to the and most without any protective covering.
2nd- or 3rd-century-BC ancient theatre, a You may spot a votive sickle of the kind that
few steps and seats of which are still visible Spartan boys dedicated to Artemis Orthia,
along the overgrown half-circle. reliefs featuring Helen and Menelaus (and
The main road leads north to the fenced- Helen with Paris), bronze and lead votive
off acropolis, passing the Byzantine Church figurines, heads and torsos of various dei-
of Christ the Saviour on the way to the ties, a statue thought to be King Leonidas,
6000 BC Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou on votive terracotta masks and grave stelae.
a small hillock. Some of the most important Fine mosaics from Hellenistic and Roman
finds in the town’s archaeological museum Sparta are also on show.
were unearthed here.
If you follow the Tripoli-bound road north 2 Activities
Pe lo p o n n e se S

of town, a signposted path leads downhill to Spartathlon SPORTS

the remains of the Sanctuary of Artemis (www.spartathlon.gr; h Sep) This gruelling an-
Orthia; this is where Spartan boys were nual foot race takes place over the 246km
flogged, the bravest awarded bronze sickles between Athens and Sparta. It follows in
that they dedicated to the goddess. the footsteps of Pheidippides, the messenger
Archaeological Museum
who ran from Athens to Sparta in one day in
L akonia
A

MUSEUM
490 BC, to ask for the Spartans’ assistance in
pa
ctivities

(% 27310 28575; cnr Lykourgou & Agiou Nikonos;

the battle of Marathon against the Persians.
r ta

adult €2; h 8am-3pm Tue-Sun) Sparta’s old-style

archaeological museum hosts artefacts from The record currently stands at 20 hours and
25 minutes.

Sparta e
# 00 200 m
0.1 miles

Acropolis
D

ä
#
Ancient (400m)
Theatre
ä
#
Ancient Or
th
Sparta ias
Ar
t em
8

Soccer
Or
11

ido

s Stadium
ano
ea
n
To

Alkm
sE

s
s

King
len
do

á Leonidas
#
O

is

Statue
ko sion
Tria
Pala
Leonidou

Th
olog

eo

lidon
ou

do

Irak
0 0 00
rito
Ar

6
0 0 00
Si

0 0 00
ch

0 0 00
u
on

0 0 00
ida

0 0 00
ido

0 0 00
mo

0 0 00 on
u

0 0 00 kour KTEL Lakonias

u

Dios
Gor

0 0on00
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Thermop
00 # (500m)
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is

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Agidos

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ilao

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666
Hotel
u

Maniatis Buses to
Hotel ÿ
# Mystras
ou

Lakonia ÿ
# ›
#
Hilo

to u
mvro Archaeological â
# ò
#
Agio

Vrasida Kleo 0
00
0 0
0 0
0 0
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nos

00 0 0 0 Museum rias
elist
00 0
Town 0 0
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Dionysos Garden (900m);

00 0
Hall 0 0 Evag
00 #0 0 0
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Mystras (5km);
Kápari 0
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66 66
00 0 0 0
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#
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0# 0 0
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000 0 Museum of the
g

ï Olive & GreekD

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Mystras Tourism Olive Oil (200m)

 151
4 Sleeping & Eating hours), and buses to Gythio (€4.30, one hour, six
The closest campgrounds are 2km from cen- daily), Neapoli (€14.20, three hours, three daily),
tral Sparta, near Mystras village. Tripoli (€5.40, one hour, nine daily) and Monem-
vasia (€10, two hours, four daily).
Hotel Lakonia HOTEL € Buses run to Mystras (€1.60, 15 minutes, three
(% 27310 28951; www.lakoniahotel.gr; Palaeologou daily) from the stop next to the OTE building on
89; s/d incl breakfast €40/55; aW ) The rooms Lykourgou; a taxi costs around €10.
at the Lakonia are not hugely memorable, Travelling to Kalamata (€3.20, one hour, one
but far from spartan nonetheless. Boons to two daily) involves changing buses at Artemi-
include a supercental location and double- sia (€3.20, 40 minutes) on the Messinian side of
the Langada Pass.
glazed windows that cut out street noise,
Departures to the Mani peninsula include
and the service is friendly and helpful.
buses to Gerolimenas (€10.30, 2¼ hours, three

Pe lo p o n n e se M
Hotel Maniatis HOTEL € daily), Areopoli (€6.90, two hours, three daily)
(% 27310 22665; www.maniatishotel.gr; Paleolo- and a 9am service to the Diros Caves (€8); the
return times change.
gou 72-76; s/d incl breakfast €44/60; a W ) Light
and pleasant rooms with firm beds and
more designer shapes than an NYC con-
temporary-design exhibition. The service is Mystras Μυστράς
efficient and the upmarket Zeys restaurant The captivating ruins of churches, libraries,

L akonia
S leeping
(mains €8 to €17) is attached. strongholds and palaces in the fortress town

yst r as & E ating

of Mystras (miss-trahss), a World Heritage–
Kápari MEDITERRANEAN €€ listed site, spill from a spur of the Taÿgetos
(% 27313 00520; www.kaparirestaurant.gr; Gort- Mountains 7km west of Sparta. It’s among
soglou 77; mains €8-15; h noon-11pm) This the most important historical sites in the
homey, friendly restaurant is a cut above Peloponnese. This is where the Byzantine
Sparta’s largely uninspiring taverna scene. Empire’s richly artistic and intellectual cul-
Greek standards are present and correct, ture made its last stand before an invading
but there are also lovely salads, pastas and Ottoman army, almost 1000 years after its
an extensive seafood menu; shrimp sagana- foundation.
ki (prawns in a savoury tomato sauce with Traveller facilities are split between Mys-
cheese) stands out. tras village, 1km or so below the main gate
Dionysos Garden GREEK €€
of ancient Mystras, and Pikoulianika village,
(% 27310 25050; mains €7-18; h lunch daily, din- 800m from Mystras’ fortress gate.
ner Tue-Sat; p ) Around 1.2km on the road
to Mystras, this tranquil restaurant is ap-
History
propriately festooned with greenery. There The Frankish leader Guillaume de Ville-
may be a shortage of frolicking nymphs and hardouin built the fortress in 1249. When
satyrs, but you will find a large selection of the Byzantines won back the Morea from
well-executed Greek standards. the Franks, Emperor Michael VIII Palae-
ologos made Mystras its capital and seat of
88 Information government. Settlers from the surrounding
plains began to move here, seeking refuge
National Bank of Greece (cnr Paleologou &
Dioskouron)
from the invading Slavs. From this time
until Dimitrios surrendered to the Turks in
Police (%27310 89580; Episkopou
Vresthenis 18) 1460, a despot of Morea (usually a son or
brother of the ruling Byzantine emperor)
Post office (Archidamou 10; h 7.30am-2pm
Mon-Fri) lived and reigned at Mystras.
While the empire plunged into decline
Revanche Internet Cafe (Gortsologou 51; per
hr €2; h 9am-late) elsewhere, Mystras enjoyed a renaissance.
Sparta Tourism (% 27310 28166; www.sparti.
Gemistos Plethon (1355–1452) founded a
gr; Evangelistrias 83-91; h 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) school of humanistic philosophy here and
his enlightened ideas, including the revival
of the teachings of Plato and Pythagoras, at-
88 Getting There & Away tracted intellectuals from all corners of Byz-
Sparta’s KTEL Lakonia bus station (% 27310 antium. Art and architecture also flourished,
26441; www.ktel-lakonias.gr; cnr Lykourgou
as seen in the town’s splendid buildings and
& Thivronos) has buses to Athens (€19.50, 3¼
hours, seven to nine daily) via Corinth (two frescoes.
1 52
Mystras declined under Ottoman rule, but Treading the cobblestones, worn smooth by
thrived again after the Venetians captured centuries of footsteps, you can walk with
it in 1687 and developed a flourishing silk the ghosts, ducking into the ruins of palac-
industry. The population swelled to 40,000. es, monasteries and churches, most dating
The Turks recaptured the town in 1715 and from between 1271 and 1460.
from then it was downhill all the way; the From the upper-entrance ticket office,
Russians burnt it in 1770, as did the Albani- the right-hand path (signposted ‘Castle’)
ans in 1780, and Ibrahim Pasha torched what leads up to the fortress; it’s a 10-minute as-
was left in 1825. By the time of Independence cent. The fortress was built by the Franks
it was a largely abandoned ruin. Much resto- and extended by the Turks; the views of the
ration has taken place since the 1950s (and Lakonia plain, spread out below, are noth-
continues to this day) and in 1989 it was de- ing short of fantastic. The left-hand path
clared a Unesco World Heritage site. descends from the ticket office to Agia So-
Pe lo p o n n e se M

fia, which served as the palace church and

1 Sights burial ground for several emperors’ wives;
oMystras RUIN some frescoes survive in a side chapel. Steps
(% 23315 25363; adult/concession €5/3; h 8am- descend from here to a T-junction.
8pm) Spread over a steep, verdant moun- A left turn leads to the Nafplio Gate.
tainside of the Taÿgetos ranges, this former Near the gate is the huge Palace of Des-
L akonia
S

capital of the Byzantine Empire is the single pots, largely restored but closed to the
ights
yst r as

most compelling set of medieval ruins in public at the time of writing. The complex
Greece. A classic fortified city, Mystras is sur- was started by the Franks and finished by
rounded by verdant olive and orange trees. the Byzantines; various buildings were con-

Mystras e
# 00 100 m
0.05 miles

Pikoulianika
D

Agios (600m)
Theodoros

Mitropolis Episcopal
Aphentiko (Cathedral of Palace
Agios Dimitrios)
Vrontokhion Museum
Monastery
Lower Entrance
Nafplio Evangelistria (Monemvasia
Gate Palace of Gate)
Despots Vaulted
Passage
LOWER
TOWN
Small
Palace Agios

666
Hristoforos Marmara
Fountain
Monemvasia Laskaris
Agios Gate Mansion
Upper Agia
Nikolaos
Entrance Sofia
UPPER
TOWN

666
House of
Frangopoulos
Convent of
Pantanassa
Agios
Taxiarhes Georgios
Kastro Monastery
(621m) of Perivleptos

666 Sparta
D

(7km)
 153
structed between 1250 and 1450 and the
main palace between 1350 and 1400. TACKLING MYSTRAS
The right fork leads down to the Monem-
At least three hours are needed to do jus-
vasia Gate, the entrance to the lower town.
tice to the ruins of Mystras. Start early
Through the gate, turn right to reach the
in the morning to beat the tour groups;
14th-century Convent of Pantanassa. This
wear sensible shoes; and bring water
features a beautifully ornate stone-carved fa-
(you can refill at the monastery). The
cade and is still maintained by nuns, Mystras’
site is divided into two interconnected
only inhabitants besides the motley crew of
sections – the kastro (the fortress on
stray cats. The convent is an elaborate, per-
the summit) and the hora (upper town),
fectly proportioned building that’s never
accessible from the fortress gate; and
overstated. The exquisite, richly coloured
the kato hora (lower town), accesible
15th-century frescoes here are among the

Pe lo p o n n e se M
via the main gate.
finest examples of late-Byzantine art. Look
If you don’t have your own wheels,
out for the tiny stamped silver and gold vo-
it makes sense to catch a taxi to the
tive offerings beneath the large icon of the
fortress gate and walk down. If you do
Virgin. You’ll find images of eyes, ears, legs,
have a car, it’s best to cover the lower
arms, breasts, babies, husbands and wives
town first (as it has the lion’s share of
stamped onto these small tablets, depending
attractions) from the main gate and

L akonia
S
on the problems (health or personal life) for

leeping
yst r as & E ating
then head up to the fortress gate to visit
which the faithful are hoping for supernatu-
the fortress and the upper town ruins.
ral help. The nuns ask that, before entering,
You can use the same ticket to re-enter
you cover bare legs with the cloths provided.
at either entrance.
The path continues down to the Monas-
tery of Perivleptos, which is built into a
rock and tucked away in a pine grove. In- iest monastery of Mystras, the focus of cul-
side, the 14th-century frescoes, preserved tural activities and the burial place of the
virtually intact, equal those of Pantanassa. despots. Of its two churches, Agios Theo-
The church has a very high dome and in the doros and Aphentiko, the latter is the more
centre you’ll find the Pantokrator (the Byz- impressive, with striking frescoes.
antine depiction of Christ as the universal,
all-powerful ruler) surrounded by the Apos- 4 Sleeping & Eating
tles, and the Virgin flanked by two angels. There are some upmarket guesthouses
Continue down towards the Mitropolis around the village of Mystras and further
and you’ll pass Agios Georgios, one of Mys- out. Pikoulianika is an equally good village
tras’ many private chapels. Further down, at which to base yourself, and it has better
and above the path on the left, is the Laska- eating options than Mystras.
ris Mansion, a typical Byzantine house.
The Mitropolis (Cathedral of Agios Dim- Mystras Castle Town APARTMENT €
itrios) is a complex of buildings enclosed by (% 27310 20047; www.mystras-castle-town.com;
a high wall. The original church was built in d/tr/q €45/50/55; p W ) Run by a friendly
the 1200s, but was greatly altered in the 15th Russian-Greek couple, these compact, fully
century. The church stands in an attractive equipped apartments are excellent value
courtyard surrounded by stoae and balco- and just a stone’s throw from Mystras’ main
nies. Its impressive ecclesiastical ornaments square. Balconies look out onto the Mystras
and furniture include a marble iconostasis, ruins, and the owners can provide a full
an intricately carved wooden throne, and a breakfast (€4 per person). Wi-fi comes and
marble slab in the floor featuring a two-head- goes like a stray cat.
ed eagle (the symbol of Byzantium) located
Castle View CAMPGROUND €
on the exact site where Emperor Constantine
(% 27310 83303; www.castleview.gr; camp sites
XI was crowned. The church also has some
per adult/tent/car €6/4/4, 2-person bungalow €25;
fine frescoes. Exhibits at the small but mod-
h Apr-Oct; W s ) This recently renovated
ern museum upstairs include fragments of
campground, set amoung olive trees, fea-
ancient cloth, buttons, jewellery and other
tures a restaurant, pool and hot showers.
everyday items of Mystras’ inhabitants.
Owners are happy to give tips on hiking in
Beyond the Mitropolis is the Vrontokh-
the Taÿgetos Mountains. It’s about 1km be-
ion Monastery. This was once the wealth-
fore Nea Mystras village.
154

LANGADA PASS ΟΡΕΙΝΗ ΔΙΑΒΑΣΗ ΛΑΓΚΑΔΑ

If you have time and your own wheels, the 59km Sparta–Kalamata road is one of the
most stunning, if time consuming and winding, routes in Greece. The road crosses the
Taÿgetos Mountains by way of the Langada Pass.
The climb begins in earnest at the village of Trypi, 9km west of Sparta, where the road
enters the dramatic Langada Gorge. To the north of this gorge is the site where the
ancient Spartans left to die those babies too weak or deformed to become good soldiers.
The road then follows the course of the Langada River before climbing sharply through
a series of hairpin bends, fringed with plane trees and pines, to emerge in a sheltered val-
ley. This is a good spot to stop for a stroll among the plane trees along the riverbank. The
Pe lo p o n n e se M

road then climbs steeply once more, to the high point of 1524m, crossing the boundary
from Lakonia into Messinia on the way. The descent to Kalamata is equally dramatic.

oTraditional Guesthouse fyra, just across the causeway. ‘You can find
Mazaraki GUESTHOUSE €€ everything you want in this city – except
(% 27310 20414; www.xenonasmazaraki.gr; Pouk- water’, observed an 18th-century Turkish
traveller. Remarkably – given that for most
L akonia
G

oulianika; d/ste incl breakfast €95/125; p W ) S

etting
onemvasia

By far the most original accommodation for of its existence Monemvasia’s only source of
miles around, Mazaraki consists of three drinking water came from the sky – Monem-
beautiful houses divided into individually vasia has remained inhabited to this day,
decorated studios and apartments. Break- unlike its Byzantine contemporary, Mystras.
T he r e & Away

fast arrives on your doorstep in a basket, Only 12 people live in the kastro permanent-
with produce from the owners’ organic ly, however; the rest go home to Gefyra after
farm. The welcoming owners are happy to a day’s work. In spite of Monemvasia’s im-
advise about hiking and biking in the area mense popularity, the extraordinary visual
(and to lend you mountain bikes). impact of the medieval village – and the de-
lights of exploring it – override the effects of
Taverna Pikoulianika GREEK € mass tourism in summer.
(% 27310 82403; Poukoulianika; mains €5-9; Cross the causeway and follow the curv-
h lunch & dinner) The convivial owner wel- ing road that skirts the cliff to the official
comes you on the terrace with delicious, entrance, a narrow tunnel in a massive for-
homemade meatballs, garlicky aubergine tifying wall. The tunnel is L-shaped, so the
‘caviar’, rabbit stew and other classic dishes. magical town is concealed until you emerge
You may get a hefty slice of drizzle cake on on the other side.
the house even if you don’t order dessert.
History
88 Getting There & Away The rock island of Monemvasia was part
of the mainland until it was cut off by an
From Sparta, buses run to Mystras (€1.60, 15
earthquake in AD 375. Its name means ‘sin-
minutes) daily at 7am, noon and 4pm; return
trips depart around 7.15am, 12.15pm and
gle entry’ (moni – single, emvasia – entry),
4.15pm. A taxi between Sparta and Mystras as there is only one way into the town.
costs around €10. During the 6th century, barbarian incur-
sions forced inhabitants of the surrounding
area to retreat to this natural rock fortress,
where they founded the upper town that
Monemvasia Μονεμβασιά eventually spread downwards. By the 13th
Surrounded by the teal waters of the Aegean century, if Mystras was the spiritual centre
Sea, vast, imposing Monemvasia (moh-nem- of the Byzantine Empire, then Monemvasia
vah-sia) is an iceberg-like slab of rock, with was one of its biggest trade centres. It was
sheer cliffs rising hundreds of metres from famous throughout Europe for its highly
the sea, linked to the mainland by a single, praised malvasia-grape Malmsey wine;
highly defendable causeway. George, Duke of Clarence, in Shakespeare’s
These days Monemvasia incorporates Richard III, drowned in a barrel of the stuff.
both the rock, with its medieval village en- Monemvasia changed hands several
closed within the walls of its kastro (fort), times as the Franks, Venetians and Ottoman
and the modern mainland village of Ge- Turks all invaded in the following centu-
 155
ries, each adding their own elements to the clude a marble door frame from the Church
architectural melange. During the War of of Agia Sofia, coats of arms (the trend intro-
Independence its Turkish inhabitants were duced by Frankish invaders) and well-heads
massacred after their surrender, following of ancient cisterns.
a three-month siege; the fortress remained
impregnable to the end, its only weakness 4 Sleeping
being the food supply. There’s no budget accommodation in the
Falling into obscurity by the 18th century, kastro itself; accommodation is cheaper in
Monemvasia was revived as a luxury desti- Gefyra. Prices fluctuate drastically depending
nation in the 1970s. on supply and demand. In November and
1 Sights February Monemvasia pretty much shuts
down. A torch (flashlight) is a good idea for
oKastro – Medieval Town

Pe lo p o n n e se M
HISTORIC SITE those staying in the cobbled, dimly lit kastro.
Almost wholly surrounded by ocean,
Monemvasia’s fortified medieval village is Flower of Monemvasia HOTEL €
divided into the lower town, bisected by (%27320 61395; www.flower-hotel.gr; Gefyra; d €42-
a main cobbled street lined with souvenir 55, tr €54-70, ste €84, all incl breakfast; paW) Lo-
shops and tavernas that leads to the main cated in mainland Gefyra, opposite Monem-
square, and the upper town, with its ruins vasia’s kastro, this clean, modern spot is a far

L akonia
S
and fortress. The greatest pleasure of vis- cry from the region’s more traditional offer-

ights
onemvasia
iting the kastro comes from wandering the ings. Nearly all 20 rooms have sea views and
labyrinth: exploring the tiny alleyways and some have kitchenettes. Staff are very helpful.
winding stairways that weave between a
complex network of stone houses, and duck- Hotel Filoxenia HOTEL €

ing into atmospheric nooks and crannies. (% 27320 61716; www.filoxenia-monemvasia.gr; d/

In the lower town, the central square is tr €53/66; p a W ) Spotless cheapie off Ge-
dominated by the Cathedral of Christos fyra’s main street, with views of the Monem-
Elkomenos, dating from the 13th century. vasia rock from its balconies. Breakfast €5.
Head up through the stone archway oppo-
Hotel Byzantino HOTEL €€
site the bell tower and you come across the
(% 27320 61351; www.hotelbyzantino.com; Mon-
handsome 17th-century Church of Myr-
emvasia; d €55-110, tr €90-115, q €125; aW )
tidiotissa. Down near the waterfront for-
tifications is the whitewashed 16th-century This range of atmospheric rooms offers a
Church of Panagia Chrysafitissa. great experience of the traditional kastro;
The path to the fortress and the upper rooms occupy around five different build-
town is signposted off the main street in sev- ings and come in varying shapes, sizes and
eral locations. A walking path skirts the edge prices (from cheaper rooms with no views to
of the upper-town ruins all the way to just smarter digs with sea-facing balconies and
above the main gate, affording great views vaulted stone ceilings); most are decked out
of Monemvasia’s cluster of rooftops against in antiques. Extensive Greek breakfast costs
a cliff backdrop. The upper town’s extensive €6. Wi-fi in lounge only.
ruins were undergoing intensive restoration Malvasia Traditional Hotel HOTEL €€
at the time of research but its paths should (% 27320 61160; www.malvasiahotel-traditional.
reopen in 2016. Don’t miss the Church of
gr; d/tr/q incl breakfast from €65/120/160; aW )
Agia Sofia, which perches on the edge of a
One of Monemvasia’s oldest and most estab-
sheer cliff, and mind you don’t fall down the
lished hotels makes the most of traditional
overgrown cisterns.
architecture. Its renovated rooms feature
Monemvasia Archaeological heavy wooden beams, light, bright colour
Collection MUSEUM schemes and contemporary art; some are
(%27320 61403; adult/concession €2/1; cosy, cave-like nooks with vaulted stone ceil-
h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) This small museum ings. The pricier rooms come with sea views;
housed in a former temple displays finds some have balconies overlooking the water.
unearthed in the course of old town exca- Wi-fi in lobby only.
vations, such as pottery from Asia Minor,
cementing Monemvasia’s status as an im- oMoni Emvasis
portant trading post. The star turn is the Luxury Suites BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€

templon (chancel screen) from an 11th- (% 27320 62022; www.moniemvasis.gr; ste incl
century church. Other objects of note in- breakfast €240-340; a W ) Consisting of just
1 56
three individually conceived suites, Moni oWine Tasting Kamara WINE BAR
Emvasis doesn’t hold back with luxurious (% 6972319434, 27320 61704; glass of wine €3;
touches, from rainshowers and jacuzzis to h noon-late) During your perambulations,
oversized, sumptuous beds. The sea views you may stumble across this enchanting
from the balconies of the Junior and the 11th-century wine cellar. The home of Byron
Deluxe suites are the best, but the Moni and Vivienne, its walls are decorated with
Emvasis suite has a decadent, medieval am- eclectica from a lifetime’s travels. Get talk-
bience with its vaulted ceilings and marble ing to the gregarious retired owners over a
fireplace. Extensive breakfast showcases lo- glass or two of Greek wine, and you may not
cal produce. want to leave. Follow the ‘wine tasting’ signs
towards the waterfront.
5 Eating & Drinking
88 Information
Pe lo p o n n e se N

Self-caterers will find most things at the

Lefkakis supermarket, just past the post ATMs, the post office (h 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri),
office in Gefyra. Tavernas on Monemvasia’s police (% 27320 61210; Spartis 137) and the
main street all serve similar fare. supermarket are all located in Gefyra. Malvasia
Travel (% 27320 61752; h 7.30am-2.30pm &
Matoula TAVERNA € 5.15-8pm Mon-Sat) in Gefyra sells tickets for
(%27320 61660; mains €8-13) Of all the tav- ferries.
L akonia
E

ernas on the main street, Matoula is the

ating
eapoli& D r inking

oldest, has the best sea views from its 88 Getting There & Away
vine-trellis-shaded terrace, and serves a re- Buses leave from outside Malvasia Travel (p156)
liable selection of classic dishes including just over the causeway in Gefyra. There are bus-
dolmadhes, grilled calamari and courgette es to Athens (€30, six hours, at least four daily)
fritters. All but the veggie dishes are a big via Sparta (€10, 2½ hours), Tripoli (€15.50, 3½
hit with the local cats, too. hours) and Corinth Isthmus (€23, 4½ hours).

oChrisovoulo INTERNATIONAL €€€

88 Getting Around
(% 27320 62022; www.chrisovoulo.gr; mains €14-
30; v ) Monemvasia’s most imaginative res- The medieval kastro of Monemvasia is pedestrian
only, but cars and motorcycles can cross the
taurant by far, Chrisovoulo conjures up the
causeway. Parking is available on the left-hand
likes of quinoa salad, veal with morel sauce side of the narrow road skirting the rock. Alterna-
and risotto with siglino pork from the Mani, tively, park in the waterfront car park in Gefyra.
all with equal ease and flair. The service is A shuttle bus (€1; h 8am-midnight) ferries
professional, the sea views fantastic and visitors between Gefyra and the kastro every 30
there’s a serious local wine list to boot. The minutes.
three-course dinner menu is a steal at €25.

Neapoli Νεάπολη
POP 2730
THE CAVE OF KASTANIA
Neapoli (neh-ah-po-lih), close to the south-
ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟ ΚΑΣΤΑΝΙΑ
ern tip of the eastern prong of the Pelopon-
The extraordinary Kastania Cave nese, is the departure point for the Ionian
(% 27343 60100; www.monemvasia.gr; Island of Kythira, clearly visible across the
adult/concession €7/3; h 10am-4pm Sat & bay. You also pass through Neapoli to see the
Sun, additional seasonal dates), located at Kastania Cave.
the end of a spectacularly winding 17km From March to December, a daily ferry
route northeast of Neapoli, contains runs between Neapoli and Diakofti on Kythi-
some of the best examples of rare sta- ra (€11/44 per person/car, 1¼ hours). Tickets
lactites and stalagmites in Europe, esti- are sold at Vatika Bay Shipping Agency
mated to be around 3 million years old. (%27340 24004; www.vatikabay.gr; h9am-9pm
Guided tours in English depart hourly; summer, 2 hours before departure rest of year),
as you walk around a raised and lit 3km 350m before the small bridge. Leave plenty
circuit, guides are quick to point out of time to find the place and buy the ticket.
octopi, exotic plants and otherworldly KTEL (% 27340 23222; www.ktel-lakonias.gr)
creatures cast in stone. Call ahead to has buses from Neapoli to Athens (€33.70,
double-check opening times. three daily) via Sparta (€14.20, three hours)
 1 57
and Molai (€7, 1¼ hours). Change in Molai To make the 6.15am Kalamata connection at
for Monemvasia. Itilo, take the 5am bus (€3.80, 45 minutes, daily
Nearby, the small island of Elafonisi is except Sunday) or go via Sparta. For Monemva-
renowned for its white beaches and visiting sia, change at Sparta.
loggerhead turtles. Regular ferries make the
10-minute trip (up to 15 daily) from Pounda,
8km west of Neapoli. THE MANI Η ΜAΝΗ
Covering the central peninsula in the south
of the Peloponnese, the Mani is a wild, rug-
Gythio Γύθειο ged region. Greeks from elsewhere will tell
POP 4700
you: so are its people, who regard them-
Once the port of ancient Sparta, Gythio (yee-
selves as direct descendants of the Spartans.
thih-o) is the gateway to the Lakonian Mani.

Pe lo p o n n e se G
After the decline of Sparta, citizens loyal
This pretty fishing town makes a pleasant but
to the principles of Lycurgus (founder of
not terribly thrilling stopover if you’re travel-
Sparta’s constitution) chose to withdraw
ling between the Mani and Sparta or Monem-
to the mountains rather than serve under
vasia or if you’re taking a ferry to Kythira. You
foreign masters. Later, refugees from oc-
can count Gythio’s attractions on two fingers:
cupying powers joined these people, who
the long stretch of Mavrovouni beach, 2km
became known as Maniots, from the Greek

T he
south of Gythio, and pine-shaded Mara-
word ‘mania’. For centuries the Maniots

ythio
etting
thonisi Islet, alleged to be ancient Cranae,
were a law unto themselves, renowned for

M aniT he r e & Away

where Paris of Troy and Helen consummated
their fierce independence, resentment of at-
the affair that sparked the Trojan War.
tempts to govern them and for their bitter,
You can bed down at Saga Pension
spectacularly murderous internal feuds.
(% 27330 23220; www.sagapension.gr; Kranais;
The Ottoman Turks failed to subdue the
s/d/tr €40/50/55; aW ), a tranquil French-
Maniots and largely left them alone, yet Mani
run place overlooking the islet, or seek out
became the cradle of rebellion that grew into
Camping Meltemi (% 27330 23260; www.
the War of Independence. Post-Greek victory,
campingmeltemi.gr; camp sites per tent/adult
though there had been a fatal falling out with
€5.50/6, bungalows €30-60; h Apr-Oct; W s ),
the first president of independent Greece
the pick of Mavrovouni’s campgrounds, with
over the spoils of victory bypassing the Ma-
excellent facilities.
niots, they nevertheless reluctantly became
As you can imagine, fresh fish features
part of the new kingdom in 1834.
rather prominently on the menus of tavernas
From the steep foothills of the snow-tipped
that cluster along the seafront between the
Taÿgetos Mountains to the pristine coastal
pier and the causeway to Marathonisi Islet;
coves; from the tiny villages nestling amid
family-run O Potis (% 27330 23245; mains €8-
olive groves, connected by threads of walking
15; h noon-11pm) is our favourite.
trails, to the arid scenery in the south of pen-
insula, speckled with abandoned stone tow-
88 Getting There & Away ers; the Mani has some of the most dramatic
BOAT and varied scenery in the Peloponnese, much
LANE Lines (www.lane.gr; per person/car of it still wonderfully underexplored.
€23/70) has one weekly ferry to Crete via Kyth- The Mani is generally divided into the
ira and Antikythira. Check the schedule with Messinian Mani (or outer Mani) and the
Rozakis Travel (% 27330 22207; rosakigy@ Lakonian Mani (or inner Mani). The Messin-
otenet.gr; Pavlou 5), on the waterfront. ian Mani starts southeast of Kalamata and
runs south between the coast and the Taÿge-
BUS
tos Mountains, while the Lakonian Mani cov-
The KTEL Lakonia bus station (%27330 22228; ers the rest of the peninsula south of Itilo.
www.ktel-lakonias.gr; cnr Vasileos Georgios &
Evrikleos) is northwest along the waterfront,
near Jande Café. Services run north to Athens
(€23.80, 4½ hours, six daily) or via Sparta Lakonian Mani
(€4.30, one hour) and Tripoli (€9.70); and south Grey rock, mottled with defiant clumps of
to Areopoli (€2.60, 30 minutes, four daily), Geroli- green scrub, characterises the steep, forbid-
menas (€6, 1¼ hours, three daily), the Diros Caves ding mountains of inner Mani. Cultivatable
(€3.70, one hour, one daily) and Vathia (€6.80, 1½ land is at a premium here, and supports lit-
hours, Monday, Wednesday and Friday).
tle more than a few stunted olives and figs.
158
Church of Taxiarhes CHURCH
ITILO BUS INTERCHANGE (Plateia 17 Martiou) On the southern side
of Plateia 17 Martiou is this 18th-century
To travel between Lakonian and Messin-
church. Its four-storey bell tower marks it
ian Mani, you must change buses at Itilo.
as the most important of Areopoli’s many
Itilo (eet-ih-lo), 11km north of Areopoli,
churches. The extremely well-preserved re-
was once the medieval capital of the
lief carvings above the main door look as if
Mani and was traditionally regarded
they belong to a much earlier era than the
as the border between outer and inner
18th century.
Mani. There are buses to Areopoli (€1.60,
20 minutes, two daily except Sunday) Church of Agios Ioannis CHURCH
and Kalamata (€4, 2¼ hours, daily). Built by the Mavromichalis family on a tiny
Areopoli–Itilo buses travel via Limeni. square west of the main square, this church
Pe lo p o n n e se LS

contains a series of well-preserved frescoes

relating the life of Jesus.
The indented coast’s sheer cliffs plunge
into the sea, and rocky outcrops shelter Pikoulakis Tower House Museum MUSEUM
pebbled beaches. This wild and barren land- (admission €2; h 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) Housed
scape is broken only by imposing stone in a restored tower, this museum displays
towers, which still stand sentinel over the exquisite Byzantine pieces from Mani
TA

region. churches. These include a 12th-century mar-

he
ights
K OMNani

Long known to locals as Kakavoulia, or ble templon from the Church of Agios Ioan-
‘Land of evil counsel’, this tough, mesmer- nis in Mina, near Pyrgos Dirou. Upstairs is a
IAN MANI

ising land makes for a fantastic road trip if clutch of well-preserved icons spanning five
you have your own wheels. You can follow centuries. Take the westbound road from the
the loop that runs south along the west coast southwest corner of the main square.
from the main town, Areopoli, detouring
along narrow lanes into semi-deserted vil- Mavromichalis Tower RUIN
lages. Stop to peek into family chapels (there (Tzani Tzanaki) The Mavromichalis Tower, in a
are almost as many churches and chapels as little square southwest of Plateia 17 Martiou,
there are towers, as you wouldn’t worship was once the mightiest tower in town, but
with the enemy), and walk to Mani’s south- now it stands sadly derelict.
ernmost tip before returning via the east
coast (or vice versa). For detailed explora- 2 Activities
tion, arm yourself with a copy of the Anavasi There is some rewarding walking in the area,
Topo 25 map, Mani 8.4; 1:30,000. though the trails are not as straightforward
to follow as their colour-coded counterparts
in Kardamyli. A number of local guesthouse
Areopoli Αρεόπολη owners, including that of Antares (p159), are
POP 800
involved in trail maintenance and are happy
Areopoli (ah-reh-o-po-lih), capital of the to give walking tips.
Mani, is aptly named after Ares, the god of
war. Dominating the main square, Plateia
Athanaton, is a statue of Petrobey Mav-
4 Sleeping
Hotel Kouris HOTEL €
romihalis, who proclaimed the Maniot in-
(% 27330 51340; www.hotelkouris.gr; Plateia
surrection against the Ottoman Empire in
Athanaton; s/d/tr €30/50/60; pW ) Right on
1821. His brother and son, Konstantinos and
the main square, this concrete cheapie may
Georgios Mavromichalis, were responsible
lack ambience, but it’s clean, central and has
for the assassination of Ioannis Kapodistri-
reliable wi-fi.
as (p139), the first president of independent
Greece, in 1831. The town retains many oth- oLondas Guesthouse B&B €€
er reminders of its rumbustious past. (% 27330 51360; www.londas.com; near Church of
Taxiarhes; s/d/tr incl breakfast €70/80/110, s/d incl
1 Sights breakfast & without bathroom €60/70; W ) This
There are some fine examples of Maniot ar- 200-year-old tower is the undisputed king of
chitecture in the narrow, cobbled alleyways the castle: stylish whitewashed rooms taste-
surrounding Plateia 17 Martiou, with most fully decorated in an antique and modern
of the fortified towers built by the Mavro- fusion; a gorgeous rooftop terrace; a bright,
michalis clan. vaulted guest lounge; and extensive break-
 1 59
fasts that use fresh local produce. It’s just 5 Eating & Drinking
north of the Church of Taxiarhes and has a Areopoli has half a dozen tavernas and sev-
minimum two-night stay. The owners can eral cafes and bars clustered along its main
help organise walks in the mountains. street. For self-caterers, there’s a small Koil-
Hotel Trapela BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ akos supermarket near Plateia Athanaton.
(% 27330 52690; www.trapela.gr; s/d/tr
Barba Petros TAVERNA €
€60/80/90; aW ) The rough-hewn stone
(% 27330 51205; mains €6.50-14; h noon-11pm)
and lack of balconies at this 12-room bou- This long-standing taverna has been in the
tique hotel are a nod to traditional Maniot family since 1917. The current grandchild/
architecture. The rooms, each named after owner and his daughter run the show. This
a Maniot settlement, sport explosed stone, is the place to pig out in every sense – the
muted colours and wooden beams, coupled owner breeds his own pigs, and other meats

Pe lo p o n n e se LE
with supremely comfortable furnishings. are sourced locally. Local specialities include

TOWER HOUSES
Dotted around the Mani, particularly around Kakavoulia (or inner Mani), scores of stone
towers rise eerily from the landscape. Some are solitary; some stand in clusters. Some are

TAhe
ating
intact and fortress-like; others are crumbling. From the 17th century until well into the 19th

K OMNani
century, the Mani was ruled by clans with chieftains, with bloody feuds constantly fought
over what little fertile land there was. These towers were family fortresses. Feuds between

I A&NDMr Ainking
warring clans were fought according to strict rules of engagement, the objective being the
destruction of the rival’s tower and the deaths of the male members of the rival’s family.
Male children were known as ‘guns’ (what else would they be useful for?) and women were

NI
exempt from the feuds; after all, someone had to till the fields and bury the dead.
Today, a growing number of towers are being restored beyond their former glory and
turned into unique places to stay. Here are our favourite retreats:
Antares (% 27330 51700; www.antareshotel.gr; Omales; d/ste incl breakfast €90/170; pW )
Run by the knowledgeable Mina, this beautiful tower house, 1.5km south of Areopoli,
seamlessly blends the historic (centuries-old vaulted ceilings, exposed stone walls) with
the contemporary (superb beds, powerful showers). Rooms look out over the lovingly
tended herb garden and breakfast ingredients are hand-picked from local suppliers. The
tranquillity and care that guests experience here inspire many to linger or return.
Citta dei Nicliani (www.cittadeinicliani.com; d/ste incl breakfast from €100/140; pW ) The
former stronghold of the namesake Mani clan is split between this luxurious hotel and
the tower house in nearby Stavri. Expect individual engravings on stone walls, exquisite
beds and heavy wooden beams (the split-level Timeless room is our favourite). The
extensive breakfast makes great use of fresh local produce, and guests can engage in
hiking and wine tasting.
Sventoura Hotel (% 6975798180, 27330 53006; www.sventourahotel.com; r incl breakfast
€60-120; pW ) Tucked away en route from Pyrgos Dirou to the Diros Caves, this hand-
some tower, run by a wonderfully welcoming family, has just five unique, characterful
rooms. Vaulted ceilings, an antler chandelier, antique chests, wrought-iron bedsteads
and bathroom sinks, hewn artfully out of stone, all conspire to give the lodgings that
potent Maniot vibe.
Tainaron Blue (%27333 00461; www.tainatonblue.com; d/ste incl breakfast €150/200; p
aWs) This lonely stone tower en route from Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio is truly a retreat:
there’s nothing for miles around, except for breathtaking coastline views…which you can
enjoy from the clifftop infinity pool. The three luxurious rooms are all unadorned stone and
vaulted ceilings, combined with sumptuous beds. The Maniot cuisine is top-notch.
Pirgos Mavromichali Hotel (% 27330 51042; www.pirgosmavromichali.gr; d incl breakfast
€130, ste €300; h closed Jan & Feb; a W ) The owner has beautifully converted his family’s
300-year-old tower house in Limeni into 13 chic rooms with rain showers and Cocomat
beds. Delightful touches abound, from the vaulted lounge and little private beach to the
luxurious split-level suite.
160
Buses to Gythio (€2.60, 30 minutes, four
daily) proceed to Athens (€27).
LIMENI ΛΙΜΕΝΙ Buses to Itilo (€1.60, 20 minutes, two daily
except Sunday) run via Limeni. Other destina-
The tiny village of Limeni, 3km north of tions include Gerolimenas (€3.40, 45 minutes,
Areopoli on the southern flank of aqua- three daily), the Diros Caves (€1.60, 15 minutes,
marine Limeni Bay, is well worth a stop departs 10.15am and returns 12.45pm), Lagia
for two culinary heavyweights. (€3.70, 40 minutes, one daily) and Vathia
Teloneio (% 27330 52702; www. (€4.20, one hour, daily in summer).
teloneio-limeni.gr; mains €9-18; h lunch
& dinner; Wv ) This colourful seafront Diros Caves Σπήλαιο Διρού
restaurant and bar serves imaginative The extraordinary Diros caves (% 27330
fare, such as roasted kritharaki (rice- 52222; www.diroscave.gr; adult/concession €12/7;
Pe lo p o n n e se LS

shaped pasta) with crayfish, stuffed h 8.30am-5.30pm), inhabited for thousands

zucchini flowers, and grilled talagani of years from Neolithic times and systemat-
cheese with prickly-pear marmalade. ically explored from 1949, lie 11km south of
The presentation is on par with the Areopoli, and are signposted near the village
flavours. of Pyrgos Dirou.
Takis (% 27330 51327; fish per kg €50-65; The entrance to the caves is on the beach.
TA

h lunch & dinner Apr-Oct) In a beautiful Guides speak Greek, so if you’re with non-
he
hopping
K OMNani

seafront location, Takis lures in diners Greeks you’ll be treated to a half-hour’s si-
with simply yet beautifully prepared lent, eerie glide by boat through the cave’s
IAN MANI

fresh fish. The results are consistently many passages, giving you time to admire the
good, according to modest Takis, ‘be- beautiful stalagmites and stalactites, many
cause I love what I do’. of the latter as fine as gossamer threads. You
then walk the remaining 300m on foot.
Abandoned as human habitation in 4 BC
vegetable stew, piglet with plum sauce and after an earthquake, the caves weren’t redis-
aubergines baked with potatoes. covered until around 1895. Then in 1949 the
Bukka Home Bar COCKTAIL BAR
local husband and wife speleology team of
A creeper-clad cafe by day, come evening Yiannis and Anna Petrocheilou began to sys-
this joint morphs into a sultry cocktail bar. tematically explore the caves, now estimated
Slip into the vaulted cavern and sip on a to be around 14km long. Underwater explo-
smoky margarita or a pornstar martini. ration continues to this day.

7 Shopping Pyrgos Dirou to Gerolimenas

Invincible Mani BOOKS Πύργος Διρού προς Γερολιμένας
(% 27330 53670; Plateia Athanaton) Has an ex- Journeying south down Mani’s west coast
cellent selection of hiking maps and books from Pyrgos Dirou to Gerolimenas, the
on the region. barren mountain landscape is broken only
by semi-deserted settlements with mighty
88 Information towers. A left turn-off 3km south of Pyrgos
The town is split into two parts: the new upper Dirou heads up through the picturesque
town, around Plateia Athanaton, and the old villages of Drialos, Vamvaka, Briki and
lower town, around Plateia 17 Martiou. The two Mina, which have fine examples of Maniot
are linked by a ‘main’ lane. stonework, before depositing you back on
National Bank of Greece (Petrobey Mavromi- the main road, 3km north of Kita. A right
hali) The only bank in town; has an ATM. In the turn 9km south of Pyrgos Dirou leads down
upper town. to the Bay of Mezapos, sheltered to the east
Post office (Petrobey Mavromihali; h 7.30am- by the frying-pan-shaped Tigani peninsula.
2pm Mon-Fri) At the northern edge of the upper The ruins on the peninsula are those of the
town. Castle of Maina, built by the Frankish lead-
er Guillaume de Villehardouin in 1248 and
88 Getting There & Away subsequently adapted by the Byzantines.
The bus station (% 27330 51229; Plateia Athan- Kita, 13km south of Pyrgos Dirou, has
aton) is situated in the middle of a vast car park the lion’s share of the west coast’s war tow-
at the town’s northern end. ers and fortified houses. It was the setting
 16 1
for the last great interfamily feud recorded tains to the east coast, and the other goes
in the Mani, which erupted in 1870 and re- south to Vathia and Porto Kagio. The south-
quired the intervention of the army, com- ern road follows the coast, passing pebbly
plete with artillery, to force a truce. Just beaches. It then climbs steeply inland to
west of Kita, Nomia also bristles with some Vathia, the most photographed of the tra-
superb tower remains. ditional Mani villages, comprising a cluster
of closely packed tower houses perched on
a rocky spur.
Gerolimenas Γερολιμένας If you have nerves of steel and wish to
POP 60 see an equally impressive traditional village
Gerolimenas (yeh-ro-lih-meh-nahss) is a with practically no visitors, take the road
tranquil fishing village built around a small, into the mountains from Alika and then
sheltered bay at the southwestern tip of the the turn-off to Mountanistika. The road is

Pe lo p o n n e se LS
Mani peninsula. Its pebble beach overlooks very narrow, with a drop to one side and few
teal waters and it’s a popular weekend geta- places for passing, so pray for a lack of on-
way for well-heeled Athenians. coming vehicles.
A turn-off to the right 3km south of Vathia
4 Sleeping & Eating splits in two. The right-hand road also splits
There is a small supermarket on the prome- in two: the right branch leads to Marmari,

TA
nade, and several cafes and tavernas. with its two sandy beaches, while the main

he
leeping
K OMNani
road heads as far south as you can go for
Kyrimi B&B B&B €€
3km, to Kokinogia, where there’s a taverna

I A N &M EA ating
(%27330 53078; www.kyrimi.com; r incl breakfast and little else.
€90-120; paW) Consisting of just four luxu- The left-hand road from the turn-off
rious rooms, this intimate B&B inside a tradi- south of Vathia cuts across the peninsula to
tional stone house is run by a friendly family.

NI
the tiny east-coast fishing village of Porto
Your hosts are happy to explain the history Kagio, set on a perfect horseshoe bay pop-
of the area and will feed you an ample break- ular with the international yachting set. It’s
fast that includes delicious homemade pies. a tranquil place to spend the night. The wa-
Each room has a patio overlooking the sea terfront tavernas there have similar menus
– perfect for sunbathing. (mains €7 to €17, fish per kilogram €40 to
Hotel Kirimai LUXURY HOTEL €€€ €70) featuring seafood and local specialities,
(% 27330 54288; www.kyrimai.gr; d incl breakfast such as wild greens pie.
€110-200, ste incl breakfast €260-300; p a W s )
Kirimai is a luxurious converted historic
building in an idyllic setting at the far south-
ern end of the harbour. Opt for the stone-
floored, timber-beamed suites if you can, as
CAPE TENARO
the cheaper doubles are cramped and dark
in typical Maniot style. The breakfast is sub- From the car park below the taverna
stantial; the international restaurant is open at Kokinogia, at the south of the Mani
to nonguests, but staff could use some train- peninsula, it’s a beautiful 30-minute walk
ing in professionalism. along an uneven rocky path to one of Eu-
rope’s southernmost points, Cape Ten-
88 Getting There & Away aro (or Cape Matapan), where a restored
There are three buses daily from Gerolimenas lighthouse stands. The cape has been an
to Areopoli (€5, 45 minutes), which head on to important location for millennia and was
Athens (€30, five hours), Gythio (€10, 1¼ hours) first mentioned in Homer’s Iliad.
and Sparta (€17, 2¼ hours). The bus stop is At the beginning of the path are the
outside Hotel Akrotenaritis. ruins of ancient Tainaron, once a thriv-
ing Roman city (look out for the stunning
wave-patterned, circular mosaic), while
Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio another short path leads to the ruined
Γερολιμένας προς Πόρτο Καγιο church built on the foundations of
South of Gerolimenas, the road continues Poseidon’s Temple. Nearby is a cave
4km to the small village of Alika, where it rumoured to be the entrance to Hades.
divides. One road leads across the moun-
162
4 Sleeping sy of underground springs, and there’s good
Hotel Psamathous HOTEL €
hiking in the hills above the village.
(% 27330 55221; www.portokayio.com; Porto Ka-
Celebrated author Nikos Kazantzakis lived
gio; d/tr incl breakfast €55/80; p a W ) This
here for a while and based the protagonist
Flintstones-style modern Maniot place is of Zorba the Greek on Alexis Zorbas, a coal-
set back from the waterfront and has stone- mine supervisor in Pastrova, near Stoupa.
platform beds, mezzanines, heavy wooden
beam ceilings and iron bedsteads.
r Beaches
Stoupa has two main beaches: the large,
Porto Kale GUESTHOUSE € main crescent of golden sand, sheltered
(% 6980755528, 27330 54202; Porto Kagio; d/q from waves and popular with families, and
€55/80; pW ) A good option in Porto Kagio – the smaller Kalogria, with deeper waters,
simple, snug rooms with stone walls and just beyond the headland to the north of the
Pe lo p o n n e se M

sun terraces. main beach. From Kalogria it’s a 10-minute

walk to the peaceful Delfini Cove.
East Coast 4 Sleeping & Eating
The east coast of the Mani peninsula is even Stoupa’s many pensions and custom-built do-
more rugged and barren than the west. matia are often block-booked by package-tour
T he
S

The main town is the formidable-looking operators in summer; book ahead.

leeping
essinian

Lagia, 12km northeast of the Alika turn- With one notable exception, Stoupa’s un-
M ani M ani

off. Perched some 400m above sea level, it derwhelming restaurants all cater to the
was once the chief town of the southeastern package-holiday crowd; you’re better off with
Mani, and some of its towers stand derelict. the taverns in Kardamyli or Exochori.
From Lagia, the road winds down with
spectacular views of the little fishing harbour Hotel Lefktron HOTEL €€
of Agios Kyprianos – a short diversion from (% 27210 77322; www.lefktron-hotel.gr; s/d/tr incl
the main road. The next village is Kokala, a breakfast from €72/82/113; h Apr-Oct; aW s )
busy place with two pebbled beaches. The A five-minute walk from the main beach,
best beach is further north at Nyfi, where a family-run Lefktron is well appointed and
turn-off to the right leads to sheltered Alipa has rooms overlooking the pool. A good
Beach. Continuing north, a turn-off beyond Greek breakfast is included and the staff is
tower-studded Flomochori descends east happy to give tips on local walks.
to Kotronas, while the main road cuts west Hotel Stoupa HOTEL €€
across the peninsula to Areopoli. (% 27210 77308; www.hotel-stoupa.gr; s/d incl
breakfast €75/85; p a W ) This 20-room hotel
is simple but clean and comfortable, and it’s
Messinian Mani Stoupa’s only hotel open in winter. It’s a cou-
The Messinian Mani, or outer Mani, lies to ple of blocks behind the beach.
the north of its Lakonian counterpart, sand-
wiched between the Taÿgetos Mountains
oVoula’s Yesterday
& Today MEDITERRANEAN €€
and the west coast of the Mani peninsula.
(%27210 77535; www.voula-yesterdayandtoday.gr;
The rugged coast is scattered with small
mains €7-12.50; h6.30pm-late May-Oct; v) In-
coves and beaches, and backed by moun-
domitable Voula, in her words, ‘cooks from
tains that remain snowcapped until late
her heart’. She serves up traditional foods
May. Kardamyli features the region’s best-
from a bygone era with a personal, contempo-
organised hiking opportunities, and there
rary take. Treats include smoked pork dishes
are some good options around Stoupa, too.
(€12.50), superb homemade pies and tracha-
na (homemade pasta). She hosts exhibits on
Stoupa Στούπα the Mani and has a recipe book – the culmi-
POP 630 nation of clients asking for her secrets.
The former fishing village of Stoupa, 10km
south of Kardamyli, is a resort village pop- 88 Information
ular with British and German package tour- Stoupa is 1km west of the main Areopoli–
ists, and is at its most pleasant during the Kalamata road, connected by roads both north
shoulder seasons. It has excellent beaches and south of town. Both roads lead to the larger
with wonderfully clean, cold water, courte- of Stoupa’s main beaches.
 16 3
Katerina’s Supermarket (% 27210 77777) Several walking trails pass through the
Well-stocked supermarket that doubles as the mountain village of Exohorio, perched on
post office. the edge of the Vyros Gorge at an altitude
Thomeas Travel (% 27210 77689; www. of 450m, where author Patrick Leigh Fermor
thomeastravel.gr; h 9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon- scattered fellow travel writer Bruce Chat-
Sat) Changes money and organises car hire, win’s ashes. The turn-off to Exohorio is 3km
excursions to sites, and ferry and air tickets.
south of Kardamyli.
Also has a good book exchange and up-to-date
bus timetables. Our favourite hiking route around Kar-
damyli include Kardamyli–Aghia Sofia–
Petrovouni–Kardamyli, a gorgeous two-
88 Getting There & Away hour loop from Kardamyli’s old town up
Buses stop at the junctions of the northern to the Aghia Sofia Church, then a descent
and southern approach roads but don’t enter through an enchanted forest to Petrovouni

Pe lo p o n n e se M
the town. One bus (two in summer) heads daily and back to Kardamyli.
to Itilo (50 minutes) at 2.10pm, and four head
Chora–Likaki Monastery–Kardamyli is
to Kalamata (€4.40, 1½ hours) at 7.30am,
10.55am, 3.50pm and 8.40pm, via Kardamyli. a four-hour descent through the pictur-
Get to the bus stop early, as buses sometimes esquely ramshackle Chora village, a down-
pass ahead of schedule. hill ramble through olive groves and a tramp
through the striking canyon along a rock-

T he
G
strewn riverbed with a detour to see the

etting
Καρδαμύλη

essinian
Kardamyli Likaki Monastery frescoes.

M aniT he
POP 300 Chora–Saidona–Prastio is a 2¼-hour
It’s easy to see why Kardamyli (kahr-dah- downhill walk from Chora through the vil-
mee-lih) was one of the seven cities offered lage of Nikovo, passing through olive groves
to Achilles by Agamemnon. This tiny village

Mr
and lush greenery en route to Saidona.

ani
has one of the prettiest settings in the Pelo- There are fantastic coastal views along the

e & Away
ponnese, nestled between the blue waters of Saidona–Prastio descent.
the Messinian Gulf and the Taÿgetos Moun-
tains. The Vyros Gorge, which emerges just 2407 Mountain Activities OUTDOORS
north of town, runs to the foot of Mt Prof- (% 27210 73752; www.2407m.com) S This pro-
itis Ilias (2407m), the highest peak of the fessional outfit offers a range of outdoor
Taÿgetos. Today the gorge and surrounding adventures, from half-day hikes (from €50
areas are very popular with hikers, with nu- per person; minimum four people) to full-
merous trails passing through tiny, timeless day assaults on Taÿgetos peak (€200), rock
villages. climbing (on an 80m-high rock; €40), oc-
Several scenes from the movie Before casional mountain-bike trips (and advice
Midnight, featuring Ethan Hawke and
Julie Delpy (released in 2013), were shot
around Kardamyli. The area has also long HIKING AROUND
been a place of pilgrimage for devotees of KARDAMYLI & STOUPA
the legendary writer Patrick Leigh Fermor, To make sense of Kardamyli’s colour-
who lived in nearby Kalamitsi Bay for sev- coded trails and to navigate your hike
eral decades until his death in 2011. Fermor above Stoupa, invest in the excellent
fought in the Greek Resistance in WWII and Anavasi Topo25 map: Mani: Kardam-
wrote Mani, which is considered by many to yli–Stoupa–Aghios Nikolaos 8.12/13;
be the definitive book on the region. 1:25,000, available from village super-
markets. To avoid retracing your steps,
2 Activities you can get a taxi to drop you off in the
Hiking is easily Kardamyli’s biggest drawcard. village of your choice (book in advance
The hills behind the village are criss-crossed via your lodgings) and walk back to
by an extensive network of well-marked hik- Kardamyli or Stoupa.
ing trails that consist of old stone paths, mi- Carry more drinking water than you
nor roads, dirt footpaths and a dry riverbed. think you’ll need, a sun hat, a torch
A number of villages above Kardamyli and (flashlight) and strong footwear to sup-
Stoupa are connected by winding, narrow port your ankles on the uneven ground.
paved roads, which make for fairly strenuous, Watch out for the odd scorpion and
scenic cycling. snake (most snakes are harmless).
16 4
for independent mountain bikers) and even cooked dinners and fresh buffet breakfasts
cooking courses. They don’t enter villages en are available to guests.
masse, and prefer to stick to secret locations.
The office is halfway along the main street. 5 Eating
The inland villages of Saidona, Mileu and
4 Sleeping Exochori also have some excellent tavernas.
There are plenty of domatia signs along the There are two well-stocked supermarkets
main road. Prices are considerably lower at the northern edge of the village.
outside high season.
O Perivolis TAVERNA €
Olympia Koumounakou Rooms PENSION € (% 27210 73713; mains €8-12; h dinner Tue-Sun,
(% 27210 73623; s/d €35/40; aW ) Olympia closed Dec; v ) In the heart of the village, this
loves her budget travellers (as they do her) excellent taverna with a large garden usual-
Pe lo p o n n e se M

and offers five clean rooms with bathrooms ly has a selection of vegetarian dishes of the
in the centre of the village. It’s a stone’s day (spinach and ricotta cannelloni, baked
throw from the water, and has an appealing aubergine) alongside Greek classics such as
garden to boot. lamb kleftiko, all of which incorporate local
ingredients where possible.
Y Volvere Studios (Stratis
Bravakos Rooms) APARTMENT € Taverna Kiki TAVERNA €
T he
S leeping
essinian

(% 27210 73326; www.yvolvere.gr; d/tr €40/55) Y (% 27210 73148; mains €6.50-9; h lunch & dinner)
Volvere is great value for compact, spotless The kindly owners at this appealing taver-
M ani M ani

studio apartments with kitchenettes. It’s at na, tucked away off the main street, tell you
the south end of the village, along a street the day’s dishes on arrival. These tend to
leading towards the water. be more imaginative than usual; expect the
likes of veal stew with shallots and cloves,
oHotel Vardia HOTEL €€ and cauliflower baked with tomatoes.
(% 27210 73777; www.vardia-hotel.gr; studio €80,
apt €115-165; h Mar-Nov; piW ) This relaxing Lola Frozen Yogurt ICE CREAM €
and stylish stone hotel (near a former sen- (medium yoghurt €2.50; h 9.30am-late; W v ) A
try tower and situated high behind the vil- cool, sweet balm for sweaty hikers on hot
lage beyond Old Kardamyli) sits amid lush days, right on the main street. Go for regular
grounds, and has very helpful owners. The or guest flavours, such as cherry or mango.
18 spacious studio-style rooms have excep-
tional views of the Messinian Gulf and there oElies TAVERNA €€

are lounge chairs overlooking the gorge for (% 27210 73140; mains €8-14; h lunch Apr-Oct,
sunset-watching. Vardia is signposted from dinner mid-Jun–mid-Sep; W v ) Right by Ritsa
the southern end of town. beach, 1km north of town, and nestled in ol-
ive groves, Kardamyli’s most popular lunch
Maison Viros APARTMENT €€ venue has the atmosphere of a provincial
(%6972098289; www.maison-viros.com; studio/ Mediterranean private garden. It presents
apt €140/180; paWs) Just across the bridge the best selection of top-notch Greek and
from central Kardamyli, these spacious Mani fare to boot, including numerous veg-
split-level apartments and studios are found gie dishes.
inside delightful stone houses arranged
around a pool, surrounded by attractively 88 Information
landscaped grounds. The apartments sleep Kardamyli is on the main Areopoli–Kalamata
up to six people, the studios four, and owner road. The central square, Plateia 25 Martiou
Nikos goes out of his way to be helpful. 1821, lies at the northern end of the main thor-
oughfare.
Kalamitsi Hotel HOTEL €€
Kardamyli’s main pebble-and-stone beach is
(%27210 73131; www.kalamitsi-hotel.gr; d/ste incl
off the road to Kalamata; turn left beyond the
breakfast €110/160; pW) Situated 1km south
bridge on the northern edge of town. The road
of town, the Kalamitsi is a lovely, modern up to Old (or Upper) Kardamyli is on the right
stone-built hotel with serene, well-appointed before the bridge.
rooms. Family bungalows are also available The post office (h 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) is on
for €220. Within its shady grounds are paths the main strip.
leading to a secluded pebbly beach. Home- A useful website is www.kardamili-greece.com.
 16 5
88 Getting There & Around miracles it was believed to have performed.
Kardamyli is on the bus route between Kalamata
The icon now resides inside the city’s over-
(around €4, one hour, four daily) and Stoupa sized cathedral, the Church of Ypapantis.
(€1.50, 15 minutes); one bus daily continues Below the kastro is the small but attrac-
south to Itilo. The bus stops at the central square tive old town, which was almost totally
at the northern end of the main thoroughfare, destroyed by the Turks during the War of
and at the bookshop at the southern end. Independence, rebuilt by French engineers
Buses to the villages in the hills above Kardam- in the 1830s, then levelled again by an
yli are too infrequent and sporadic to be useful. earthquake in 1986. A lively Saturday food
A taxi to Exochorio costs around €20. market just to the west of the old town sells
Kalamata olives and other local produce.

MESSINIA ΜΕΣΣΗΝIΑ 1 Sights

Pe lo p o n n e se K
The southwestern corner of the Peloponnese Archaeological Museum
has many boons, from the peninsula’s love- of Messenia MUSEUM

liest beaches to old Venetian towns, impres- (% 27210 83485; www.archmusmes.gr; Benaki &
sive castles and even an underwater park in Agiou Ioannou; admission €3; h 1.30-8pm Mon &
the making. 8am-8pm Tue-Sun) This partially interactive,
Messinia’s boundaries were established in child-friendly museum focuses on treasures

Malamata
G
found in four regions – Kalamata, Pylia,

etting
essiniaT he r e & A r o u nd
371 BC following the defeat of Sparta by the
Thebans at the Battle of Leuctra. The defeat Messini and Trifylia. A trail snakes through
ended almost 350 years of Spartan domi- the maze of exhibits, revealing everything
nation of the Peloponnese – during which from sculpture, pottery and funereal ob-
time Messinian exiles founded the city of jects found in Mycenaean tholos tombs, to
Messinia in Sicily – and meant the Messini- Roman mosaics, gold jewellery and votive
ans were left free to develop their kingdom offerings.
in the region stretching west from the Taÿge- Kastro FORT
tos Mountains. Their capital was Ancient (Vilardouinou; €2; h 8am-5pm Tue-Sun) Loom-
Messini, about 25km northwest of Kalamata ing over the town is the 13th-century kastro.
on the slopes of Mt Ithomi. Remarkably, it survived the powerful 1986
earthquake that levelled the city. The entry
Kalamata Καλαμάτα gate is its most impressive feature. Inside,
the kastro is a lush haven of tranquillity and
Kalamata is the capital of Messinia and the there are good views from the battlements.
second-largest city in the Peloponnese. Most
travellers just pass through it, only pausing
to partake of its facilities and its decent
z Festivals & Events
Kalamata International
restaurants.
Dance Festival MUSIC, DANCE
Built on the site of ancient Pharai, the city
(www.kalamatadancefestival.gr; h Jul) This an-
takes its modern name from a miracle-work-
nual festival draws crowds to its quality per-
ing icon of the Virgin Mary known as kalo
formances of traditional music and dance.
mata (good eye). It was discovered in the
Venues include the amphitheatre of the
stables of the Ottoman aga (governor), who
kastro. See the website for dates and prices.
converted to Christianity as a result of the

KALAMATA OLIVES
Kalamata gives its name to the prized Kalamata olive, a plump, purple-black variety
found in delicatessens around the world. The region’s reliable winter rains and hot sum-
mers make for perfect olive-growing conditions.
The Kalamata tree is distinguished from the common olive (grown for oil) by the size
of its leaves. Like its fruit, the leaves of the Kalamata are twice the size of other varieties
and a darker shade of green.
Unlike other varieties, Kalamata olives can’t be picked green. They ripen in late
November and must be hand-picked to avoid bruising. You can buy and sample these
famous olives at the markets in Kalamata.
166

Kalamata e
# 00 200 m
0.1 miles
4 Sleeping & Eating
A B The majority of lodgings are located along
Artemisia (24km);
KTEL Messinia ›
# Sparta (52km)
D the waterfront. The marina is lined with res-
Bus Station
taurants and tavernas; good options are also

r
ve
tis found in the old town.

Ri
1 ar 2V
# 1
Sp

n
do
Hotel Rex

Ne
Church of u HOTEL €€
0 0 0
Agiou 00 Vilar d o ui no
0Ypapantis (% 27210 22334; www.rexhotel.gr; Aristomenous
0
0 0
0 0 0 0 00
io 0 0 0#0 0
M
Ioannou 26; d/ste incl breakfast from €99/199; aW ) The
0
0000 0
00 0
00

6
OLD
el
Ü
0 0 0
et
Ithomis u TOWN0
0 0
0 00
Plateia Rex has a superb central location and will
Amfias
.
# 1â
# k is0
Bena ant
i 000 00
Ypapantis appeal if you like unapologetically retro de-
Ifestou
#
ú0
0 0
5
0 0
0 pa
p 0
0 0
00
0 cor, a Fawlty Towers–esque attitude from
0 0
00 0 K alipatir0
Plateia
0 Y
00 00
0
230 0 0 0 s 00
some staff and a touch of faded grandeur.
idos
Pe lo p o n n e se K

Martiou
Poly 000 M Stadiou000
a
on

2 2 The rooms are reasonably modern but the

n

vrio
Artem

av
hi

u r o mic

6
At

air-con struggles in the summer heat. The

ou

hali
corner room 403 has good rooftop views.
ol a

Dima ÿ
#
0
00
0 0 0 0 0 0 4 k
ra

Papa opoulou
N ik

00 0 0 0 0
Plateia 0
osta

tson Hotel Haikos

0
00
00 0 0
00 0 0
0
Eleftherias 0
00 0 i HOTEL €€
ou

0
00
00 00 0 0
os 0 0 0 Lako (% 27210 88902; www.haikos.gr; Navarino 115;
n
Agi

0 0 0
nt0 0 0 0 nikis
Anag

0
00
0 0
0 0 o0 0 0 0
od 00000
e0
s/d €57/75; p W ) One of the best choices
Mleeping
S

00 0N0 0 0 0 0 0
alamata

00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Nikita
essinia & E ating

00 0 0 0 0 0 0
Plateia 0
Vas Zoum ra along the beachfront is this business-like,
00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 pouli
ou

003 0000 0 0 0 0
Georgiou
0 0 0
Ke sari modern hotel, with funky wallpaper, balco-
Ia

3
o lo g

0 0 0 0
tr

P olich
0 0 0 0 nies and beachfront parking. Rooms at the
op

arou
0 0 0 0 Geo s
Faron
ou

0 0 0 0 front catch the sea breeze (and street noise).

s
Pa l e

0 0 0 0 rgou
lo

Vyrono

0 0 0Va0
li
e u

£
#
0 0 0 0lathrito 000 Breakfast €5.
gr

Train 00 u000
Da

00 Va
Station 00 s G eorgio
0
0 00
u00
0 00 Street Pasta ITALIAN €

Olgas (% 27214 01328; Amfias 20; mains €6-11; h 2-11pm

Tue-Sun; v ) Hip, tiny eatery specialising in
s
Aristomenou

Sofi as
Amalias oodles of pasta, with imaginative sauces
4 Solonos Amalias 4 alongside good ol’ bolognese and pesto. El-
Vas Ko
nstant
i nou bow your way in and be prepared for leisure-
Sokratous
ly service if the place is full.

6
Aristotelous
Burgery BURGERS €
Makedonias Platonos
D (www.theburgery.gr; Navarinou 93; mains €5-8;
Airport (10km);
Korai h 1pm-midnight; W ) One of the very, very
Messini (12km)
few places along the marina that doesn’t do
Pindarou
5 5 seafood, the Burgery grills up huge, freshly
made burgers, generously stacked with top-

6
Aristomenous

Sofokleous
OSE pings that slither out the sides and ooze all
Park Evripidou
over your fingers as you try to take a bite.
Filellinon

Mezonos
Kanari

Akrita
Psaron

Omirou

Messini (8km); Praxitelous

Pylos (38km); Kalamata

6
Koroni (40km); Irodotou
Methoni (49km) æ Sights
6 D 6
Kritis 1 Archaeological Museum of
Faron

f
# Messenia.............................................A2
Riga Fereou

SMAN
Methonis 2 Kastro..................................................... B1
Travel/ ò#
Maniatis
Vyronos

Koronis ÿ Sleeping
3 Hotel Haikos ..........................................B7
Santa Rosa
3ÿ
# 4 Hotel Rex................................................A2
Navarinou D
Burgery (200m);
D Kardamyli (24km); 7 ú Eating
7
Marina Stoupa (32km) 5 Street Pasta...........................................A2
(250m) Port
ï Information
Tourist Support Office ..................(see 1)
A B
 16 7
88 Information goes south to the seafront and then east along
Navarinou as far as the Filoxenia Hotel. Buy
National Bank of Greece (Aristomenous,
tickets (€1.20) from kiosks or the driver.
Central Sq, cnr Akrita & Navarinou)
Post office (cnr Olgas & Navarinou; h 7.30am- CAR
2pm Mon-Fri) Recommended car rental options:
Tourist police (% 27210 24680; Iroon Poly- Avis (% 27210 20352; www.avis.gr; Kesari 2)
techniou; h 8am-9pm Mon-Fri)
Verga Rent a Car (% 27210 95190; www.
Tourist support office (% 27210 90413; Be- car-rental-kalamata.gr; Faron 202)
naki; h 9am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm
Sat & Sun) This helpful tourist office, in the
same building as the Archaeological Museum,
has a plethora of brochures on Messinia’s
Ancient Messini
attractions. Αρχαία Μεσσήνη

Pe lo p o n n e se A
POP 350
88 Getting There & Away The extensive ruins of Ancient Messini lie
scattered across a small valley below the pret-
AIR
ty village of Mavromati, 25km northwest of
Kalamata International Airport is served by var- Kalamata, signposted from the modern town
ious airlines from Nuremburg, Amsterdam and
London Gatwick in summer. Aegean Airlines
of Messini. The village takes its name from
the fountain in the central square; the wa-

IMnNessinia
(www.aegeanair.com) operates daily flights
ter gushes from a hole in the rock that looks

fCoI r
between Kalamata and Athens and Thessaloniki
from June through September. like a black eye (mavro mati, in Greek). The

E mation
NT MESSINI
name Ancient Messini is used to refer to both
BOAT the historic site and the village itself.
Between mid-June and September, a weekly
ferry service operated by LANE Ferries (www. History
lane.gr) runs on Sundays from Kalamata to
Kissamos, Crete (€32/84 per person/car, 9¾ Ancient Messini was founded in 371 BC after
hours) via Kythira (€21.50/56 per person/car, the Theban general Epaminondas defeated
5½ hours). Contact SMAN Travel/Maniatis Sparta at the Battle of Leuctra, freeing the
(% 27210 20704; cnr Likourgou & Psaron 148), Messinians from almost 350 years of Spar-
by the port, for the schedule. tan rule. Built on the site of an earlier strong-
hold, the new Messinian capital was one of
BUS
a string of defensive positions designed to
KTEL Messinia bus station (% 27210 28581; keep watch over Sparta. Epaminondas him-
www.ktelmessinias.gr; Artemidos) has buses to
Athens (€22.20, 4½ hours, 12 daily) via Corinth
self helped to plan the fortifications, which
Isthmus (€15.80, 2½ hours). It also has buses were based on a massive wall that stretched
to Tripoli (€8.10, 1¼ hours, five daily), Kyparis- 9km around the surrounding ridges and
sia (€7, 1¼ hours, four weekdays) and Patra completely enclosed the town.
(€22.80, four hours, two daily) via Pyrgos (€14, Apart from its defensive potential, An-
two hours). cient Messini was also favoured by the gods.
Heading west, buses go to Koroni (€5, 1½ hours, According to local myth, Zeus was born
three to six daily), Methoni (€6.10, 1½ hours, five here – not Crete – and raised by the nymphs
daily) and Pylos (€5, 1¼ hours, five daily). Neda and Ithomi, who bathed him in the
Heading east across the Langada Pass, buses same spring that gives the modern village
run to Sparta (€5, 1¾ hours, daily at 9.15am) its name.
with a change at Artemisia. Four daily buses
head to Kardamyli (€4, one hour) and Stoupa
(€4.40, 1¼ hours), with one continuing to Itilo
1 Sights
(€7.40, 2¼ hours). There are also direct buses to oAncient Messini HISTORIC SITE
Thessaloniki (€65, three weekly, 11 hours). (% 27240 51201; www.ancientmessene.gr; adult/
concession €4/2, museum & site €5/3; h 8am-
88 Getting Around 8pm) The remains of this vast ancient city
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT are at least as extensive as those of Olympia
Kalamata’s airport is 10.5km west of the city, and Epidavros, yet Ancient Messini receives
near Messini. A taxi costs around €20. only a fraction of their visitors. Picturesque-
ly situated on a hillside below the village of
BUS Mavromati and still undergoing excavation,
Local buses leave from the KTEL Messinia bus the site comprises a large theatre, an agora,
station. The most useful service is bus 1, which a vast Sanctuary of Asclepius and the most
16 8

UNDERWATER WORLDS
Messinia’s rich historical heritage also lies underwater. The latest ambitious government
project is to create an underwater park in two locations, one near Pylos and the other
around Sapienza Islet, just south of Methoni, to allow divers to explore a wealth of ship-
wrecks from through the ages.
Sapienza once lay on an important maritime route between Italy and the Middle East,
and the wrecks around the islet yield treasures such as granite columns from King Herod
of Palestine, Roman stone sarcophagi and amphorae.
The Bay of Navarino near Pylos hosted the immense naval Battle of Navarino in 1827
and the sea floor is littered with ship remains, the most impressive being the three Otto-
man warships. There’s also an immense recent shipwreck of the Irene Serenade tanker.
Pe lo p o n n e se A

The project is still in the making; for updates, contact Ionian Divers (% 27630 61551;
www.ioniandivecenter.gr).

intact and impressive of all ancient Greek The cube-like building near the toilets is a
stadiums. grave memorial to an important Messinian
Take the downhill turn-off near the mu- family, and the Doric temple at the far end
Mating
E

of the stadium is a mausoleum of the Saith-

Nessinia

seum, about 300m northwest of the square.

CIENT MESSINI

The first construction you come across idae, a prominent Roman family.
is the large amphitheatre, reconstructed
for contemporary use. The path leads past Museum MUSEUM

the Fountain of Arsinoe building, which (adult/concession €2/1, museum & site €5/3;
h 8.30am-8pm) The compact museum, by
supplied the ancient city with water. The ex-
tensive columned remains next to it are the the turn-off for the site, houses some won-
agora (marketplace) with the treasury in derful statuary from Ancient Messini. They
its southwest corner. The Greek general Phi- include the fine specimen of manhood that
lopoemen was held prisoner by the Messin- is Hermes, fierce Artemis, an ugly Roman
ians here in 183 BC and dispatched to the emperor statue carved from a female Greek
other world with poison. statue, and also Machaon and Podaleiros,
Beyond is the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the sons of Asclepius. The latter are thought
the spiritual centre that lay at the heart of to be the work of Damophon, who special-
the ancient city, consisting of a rectangular ised in oversized statues of gods and heroes
courtyard fringed with Corinthian columns. and who was responsible for many of the
This extensive complex was centred on a statues that once adorned Ancient Messini.
Doric temple that once housed a golden stat- Arcadian Gate ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
ue of Ithomi. The modern awning west of It’s worth heading 800m along the road from
the temple protects the artemision, where Mavromati village, past the museum at the
fragments of an enormous statue of Artemis turn-off to the site, to the celebrated Arcadian
Orthia were found. The structures to the Gate. This unusual stone portal with a circu-
east of the asclepion include the ekklesi- lar courtyard between the double gates and
asterion, which looks like a small amphi- an immense, half-collapsed gate post guard-
theatre but once acted as an assembly hall. ed the ancient route to Megalopoli – now the
Nearby are the remains of a Roman villa, road north to Meligalas and Zerbisia – which
the steel roof protecting the mosaic remains. runs through the gate. Running uphill from
Head downhill to the large stadium, the gate is the finest surviving section of the
which is surrounded by a forest of columns. mighty defensive wall built by Epaminondas.
You can see where the Romans closed off
part of the athletics track, turning it into a
gladiator arena. On the left-hand side, near
5 Eating
Taverna Ithomi TAVERNA €
the arena, are the VIP seats – the ones with
(% 27240 51298; www.ithomi.gr; mains €5.50-11;
backs and with lion paws for legs. On the
h noon-11pm) The pick of a handful of local
right-hand side, near the intact gate of the
kafeneia (coffee houses) and tavernas, this
enormous gymnasium, are round holes in
one offers traditional cuisine with a view
stone slabs – ingenious Roman public toi-
over the ruins. Friendly owner Nikos is the
lets positioned over a now dry stream.
local ‘man in the know’, and besides grilled
 169
meats, he makes a mean briam (oven-baked Parthenon GREEK €
vegetable casserole). (% 27250 22146; mains €7-12; h lunch & dinner)
On the waterfront, a block from the main
88 Getting There & Away square, this family-run seafront taverna spe-
There are two buses between Ancient Messini/
cialises in seafood, along with a supporting
Mavromati and Kalamata (€3, one hour, daily cast of classic Greek dishes.
except Sundays), one in the early morning, the Peroulia Restaurant GREEK €€
other in the afternoon, on a changing schedule.
(% 27250 41777; www.peroulia.gr; mains €7-15;
Check at Taverna Ithomi.
h breakfast, lunch & dinner) Overlooking the
teal waters of the gorgeous Peroulia Beach,
6km north of Koroni, this waterfront restau-
Koroni Κορώνη rant has earned a loyal local following for its

Pe lo p o n n e se K
POP 1700
traditional Greek cuisine and fresh seafood.
Koroni (ko-ro-nih) is a lovely Venetian port It does have occasional off-days, but the
town on Messinia Bay, 43km southwest of beach alone is worth the trip. In the grounds
Kalamata. Medieval mansions and churches of the Colonides Hotel.
line the town’s quaint, narrow and winding
streets. These lead to a promontory, on which
perches an extensive castle and monastery.
88 Getting There & Away

Mo
G
Buses will drop you in the central square outside

etting
essinia
1 Sights & Activities the Church of Agios Dimitrios, one block back

r oni T he r e & Away

from the harbour. There are services to Kala-
Castle CASTLE
mata (€5, 1½ hours, five daily), Athens (€27.20,
The castle crowns a bluff overlooking the four hours, daily) and Pylos (€3.50, 1½ hours,
town. Much of it is occupied by the Timios five daily).
Prodromos Convent, so a strict dress code
applies. You can enter via the castle’s impres-
sive Gothic entrance. The small promontory
beyond the castle is a tranquil place for a Methoni Μεθώνη
POP 1170
stroll, with lovely views over the Messinian
Gulf to the Taÿgetos Mountains. Methoni (meh-tho-nih), 12km south of Pylos,
was one of the seven cities offered to Achilles
Zaga Beach BEACH by Agamemnon. Homer described it as ‘rich
Koroni’s main attraction is Zaga Beach, in vines’. Today it’s a pretty seaside town with
a 2km sweep of golden sand just south of a popular beach, next to which looms the
town. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to most impressive example of a 15th-century
here – you can cut through the castle or go Venetian fortress in the Peloponnese.
via the road. Koroni also sees loggerhead
turtles, which lay their eggs near Zaga. 1 Sights
Kastro FORTRESS
4 Sleeping & Eating (h 8am-3pm) F This vast, crumbling
The harbourfront street is lined with kastro, a great example of 15th-century
restaurants. Venetian military architecture, is built on a
promontory south of Methoni. It’s surround-
Hotel Diana HOTEL €
ed on three sides by the sea and separated
(% /fax 27250 22312; www.dianahotel-koroni.gr; d from the mainland by a dry moat. Enter
€45; a W ) This place is blessed (or other- the inner keep through the mighty gateway
wise) with Byzantine gold-plated bar stools, to discover a Turkish bath, a cathedral, a
icons and the like. Rooms are not quite as house, a cistern and underground passages.
glossy – they are simple but adequate. It’s off A short causeway leads from the fortress to
the central square, almost on the seafront. the diminutive octagonal Bourtzi fortress on
Breakfast costs €5. an adjacent islet.
Camping Koroni CAMPGROUND € The medieval port town, which was lo-
(% 27250 22119; www.koronicamping.com; camp cated within the fortress walls, was the
sites per adult/child/tent €8/4/5; p W s ) Locat- Venetians’ first, and their longest-held,
ed only 200m from Koroni, near the beach. possession in the Peloponnese. It was also
On-site restaurant, washing machines and a stopover for pilgrims en route to the Holy
supermarket; popular with families. Land.
170
4 Sleeping & Eating bour that’s almost enclosed by the Sfaktiria
Islet, its castle and surrounding pine-covered
Hotel Aris HOTEL €
(% 27230 31125; s/d/tr €35/40/50; p a W )
hills, Pylos is not just picturesque but also
Two blocks from the sea and overlooking a one of the most historically significant towns
tree-lined square, this immaculately clean in the Peloponnese.
cheapie is run by kind, helpful owners who ‘Sandy Pylos’, the Mycenaean kingdom
don’t speak much English. mentioned by Homer, lay a short distance
from here, near Gialova Lagoon, and was
Hotel Achilles HOTEL €€ one of the few places where the Spartans
(%27230 31819; www.achilles-hotel.com; Plateia suffered an ignoble defeat at the hands of
Eleftherias; s/d €60/75; paW) The smartest of the Athenians. Also, from this very bay on
a range of small family hotels in town, Achil- 20 October 1827, the British, French and
les has 13 comfortable, modern rooms and a Russian fleets, under the command of Ad-
Pe lo p o n n e se P

pleasant outdoor terrace. There’s a light, airy miral Codrington, fired at point-blank range
dining area, too. Breakfast costs €6. on Ibrahim Pasha’s combined Turkish, Egyp-
tian and Tunisian fleet, sinking 53 ships and
Taverna Alector TAVERNA € killing 6000 men, with negligible losses on
(%27230 31838; mains €7-11; hlunch & dinner) the Allies’ side. The attack was known as
Traditional Greek dishes are served with ap- the Battle of Navarino (Navarino being the
plomb by the friendly and accommodating town’s former name) and was a decisive mo-
Mleeping
S

multilingual husband-and-wife team at this

ylos
essinia & E ating

ment in the War of Independence.

central taverna. Live music on Thursdays;
linger with a beer or carafe of house wine. 1 Sights & Activities
Taverna Klimataria TAVERNA € Neo Kastro CASTLE
(%27230 31544; Miaouli; mains €7-11; hnoon-11pm (%27230 22955; adult/concession €3/2;
May-Oct) Locals are in agreement: this is the h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) The more intact and
place to head to for traditional dishes. It’s in accessible of two castles that lie on either
an old home, with seating on the front porch side of Navarino Bay, this was built by the
and in the courtyard. Typical choices include Turks in 1573 on the hilltop at the southern
onion pie and stuffed zucchini flowers. edge of town, off the road to Methoni. Within
its formidable walls is an excellent little mu-
88 Information seum with exhibits on underwater archae-
The road from Pylos forks on the edge of town to ology, a citadel, a mosque converted into a
create Methoni’s two main streets, which then run church (under renovation) and a courtyard
parallel through town to the fortress. As you come surrounded by dungeons (used as a prison
from Pylos, the fork to the right is the main street, to contain warring Maniots until the 1900s).
where there’s a National Bank of Greece (and ATE The well-presented museum focuses on
Bank ATM) and a supermarket. The left fork leads the remains of several shipwrecks: the mar-
directly to the fortress car park, passing the post ble columns and stone sarcophagi that were
office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) on the way. found off the island of Sapienza, near Me-
thoni; and the remains of the Mentor, the
88 Getting There & Away ship that carried the Parthenon Marbles that
Buses depart from Methoni from the fork at the then had to be retrieved from the deep.
Pylos end of town where the two main streets
meet. Buses travel to Pylos (€1.60, 15 minutes, René Puaux Exhibition MUSEUM
three to six daily) and on to Kalamata (€6, 1½ (admission €2; h 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) Housed
hours). Services also run to Finikounda (€2.60, in a red mansion on the seafront, this collec-
15 minutes, one to two daily except Sundays); tion of pictures depicts the War of Independ-
change there for Koroni, though connections ence with a focus on the Battle of Navarino.
may not match up. The bus to Kalamata stops at It was donated by René Puaux (1878–1937),
Harakopio, 4.5km from Koroni. For bus informa- who bequeathed porcelain, engravings and
tion call % 27230 22230. lithographs on condition that they be exhib-
ited at Pylos, near the battle’s location.
P ylos Πύλος Club Boats BOAT TOUR
POP 2760 (% 6972263565, 27230 23155; www.pyloscruises
Coastal Pylos (pee-loss), 51km southwest of .gr; kiosk on the quay; h Jun-Sep) Runs boat
Kalamata, presides over the southern end of tours around the Bay of Navarino and to
an immense bay. With its huge natural har- Sfaktiria Islet, where silt-covered wrecks of
 17 1
sunken Turkish ships are discernible in the 88 Getting There & Away
clear waters. The price depends on the num- The KTEL Messinia bus station (% 27230
ber of passengers, but reckon on about €15 22230; www.ktelmessinias.gr) is on the inland
per person (minimum numbers apply). side of the central square. From the bus station,
there are services to Kalamata (€5, 1¾ hours,
4 Sleeping & Eating four to seven daily); Kyparissia (€6.10, 1¼ hours,
There is a much better selection of restau- two to four daily) via Nestor’s Palace (€2, 30
rants clustered along the pedestrianised wa- minutes) and Chora (€2, 35 minutes); Methoni
terfront in nearby Gialova, 8km north along (€1.60, 20 minutes, three to four daily); and
Navarino Bay. Athens (€28, five hours, two daily). There’s one
connection a day for Patra departing Kyparissia.
oTina’s House B&B €
(%27230 23653; www.pylosrooms.com; d incl break-

Pe lo p o n n e se G
fast €50; aW) A handful of stylish rooms in Gialova Γιάλοβα
a bluff-top location, unbeatable views of the POP 280
bay, a wonderfully friendly hostess and an ex- The village of Gialova lies 8km north of
cellent breakfast make this a superb, homey Pylos on the northeastern edge of Navari-
choice. Bring your own wheels or be prepared no Bay. There’s a fine sandy beach and safe
for a stiff uphill 15-minute walk from town. swimming in the sheltered waters of the bay.

Mleeping
S
The Gialova Lagoon is a prime birdwatching

ialova
Karalís Beach Hotel

essinia & E ating

HOTEL €€
site in winter.
(%27230 23021; www.karalisbeach.gr; Paralia; d/
tr/f €75/85/160; aW) Pylos’ clear winner in
the hotel stakes is this intimate little place
4 Sleeping & Eating
with 14 compact, stylish rooms, all with wood Camping Erodios CAMPGROUND €

floors and decorated in tranquil creams. (% 27230 23269; www.erodioss.gr; camp sites per
Front rooms have balconies. You’ll like this adult/tent/car €7/5/4, 2-/4-bed cabins €65/75;
W ) Neat as a pin, this campground has a
place for the setting alone – under the castle
walls, clinging to a cliff over the water. good stretch of beach on Navarino Bay and
great facilities. It’s northwest of the village
Koukos TAVERNA € on the road leading out to the Gialova La-
(%27230 22950; mains €7.50-11; hlunch & dinner) goon and Paleokastro.
A plain, unpretentious, good old-fashioned
taverna with a loyal local clientele, serving Zoe Resort HOTEL €€

hearty portions of grills and oven-baked (% 27230 22025; www.zoeresort.com; r incl break-
dishes on a changing menu. It’s a short walk fast from €70, apt from €90; paW s ) This
up the hill above the port – ask for directions once-small family-run place on the seafront
in the plaza. near the pier has morphed into an appealing

BIRDWATCHING & THE GIALOVA LAGOON

The best, and most accessible, birdwatching site in the Peloponnese is the Gialova Lagoon.
Between September and March the lagoon is home to up to 20,000 assorted waterbirds,
while many others pause on their spring migration between Africa and Eastern Europe.
The Hellenic Ornithological Society has recorded here 265 of around 400 species
found in Greece, including 79 protected species, 10 species of duck and eight types of
heron. Waders descend in their thousands, along with flamingos and glossy ibises. Birds
of prey include the internationally threatened imperial eagle, plus ospreys, peregrine
falcons and harriers. Birds aside, 28 types of mammal and 26 species of reptile also call
the lagoon’s environs home.
The lagoon and associated wetlands cover 700 hectares at the northern end of Nava-
rino Bay, separated from the bay by a narrow spit of land leading out to Koryphasion Hill.
They are fed by two freshwater streams that flow into the reed beds on the northern and
eastern flanks of the lagoon and empty into Navarino Bay, below Koryphasion Hill.
The wetlands and surrounding coastal habitats were declared a protected area in
1997. The old pump house has been converted into an information centre staffed by
volunteers in summer and is the starting point for a walking trail that guides visitors
through a range of habitats.
17 2
resort. We like the older hotel rooms with up to the castle’s crumbling battlements, re-
the small front balconies, although they’re warded by views of the perfect crescent of
potentially noisy if Zoe’s outdoor taverna the beach below.
rocks on. The resort section is modern, but
the service can be a little chaotic. Voidokilia Beach BEACH
This perfect, sandy crescent with clear wa-
oElia MEDITERRANEAN € ters is presumed to be Homer’s ‘sandy Pylos’,
(% 27230 23503; www.elia-gialova.gr; mains €6-15; where Telemachus was warmly welcomed
h Feb-Oct; Wv ) Gourmet Greek meets con- when he came to ask wise old King Nestor
temporary Mediterranean eatery. The out- the whereabouts of his long-lost father, Od-
standing smoked pork and orzo pasta with ysseus, King of Ithaca.
seafood is matched by the ambience, trendy Follow the signs to Paleokastro and walk
designer lights and flower boxes. the lagoonside track labelled ‘Nestor’s Cave’
Pe lo p o n n e se A

from the Paleokastro car park (20 minutes)

oLa Cucina Italiana ITALIAN €€ or approach by road from the village of
(% 27230 23301; mains €7-17; h 6.30pm-late) Petrohori, 6km north of Gialova off the road
From the seasonal spaghetti vongole (with to Chora.
clams) and chicken sautéed with oranges
and honey, to the ample servings of pizza Nestor’s Palace RUIN

piccante, this Italian restaurant really deliv- (% 27630 31437) The best preserved of all My-
Mr
G

cenaean palaces lies 17km north of modern

etting
essinia

ers. The sea views from the upstairs terrace

o u nd GTialova

are complemented by friendly service, and a Pylos. It is described in Homer’s Odyssey as

free glass of sparkling wine comes accompa- the court of the mythical hero Nestor, who
nies the noteworthy desserts. took part in the voyage of the Argonauts
and sent 90 ships to fight in the Trojan War.
he r e & Away

88 Getting There & Away Originally a two-storey building, the palace’s

walls stand 1m high, giving a good idea of
There are four buses a day south to Pylos (€2, 15
the layout of a Mycenaean palace complex.
minutes) and up to six daily north to Kyparissia
At the time of writing, renovations of the
via Nestor’s Palace and Chora. A taxi between
Gialova and Pylos costs around €15. palace were ongoing.
The main palace, in the middle, was a
building of many rooms. The largest room,
A round Gialova the throne room, was where the king dealt
with state business. In its centre was a large,
oPaleokastro RUIN
circular hearth surrounded by four ornate
The ruins of this ancient castle, built by the columns that supported a 1st-floor balcony.
Franks in the 13th century on the site of the Surrounding the throne is the sentry box,
acropolis of Ancient Pylos, lie 5km west of Gi- pantry, waiting room, a vestibule and, most
alova on rugged Koryphasion Hill, a formi- fascinating, a bathroom with a terracotta
dable natural defensive position overlooking tub still in place where, according to leg-
the northern entrance to Navarino Bay. end, Polycaste, Nestor’s youngest daughter,
The castle (officially closed) can be ex- bathed the hero Telemachus.
plored with care; avoid falling down cisterns Some of the palace frescoes and some of
hidden by overgrowth. The views from the the Linear B script tablets – the first to be
top are magnificent. The road out to the cas- discovered on the mainland – are housed in
tle is signposted on the northern edge of the the museum in the nearby village of Chora.
village.
Follow signs to Paleokastro, where the Chora Archaeological Museum MUSEUM
road ends in a little car park. From there (% 27632 31358; adult €2; h 8.30am-3pm Tue-
you’ll find two ways of reaching the castle: Sun) This little museum, 4km northeast of
the left-hand path (20 minutes) skirts Kory- Nestor’s Palace in the village of Chora, hous-
phasion Hill and gradually leads up to the es finds from the palace site and other Myce-
entrance. The other route (40 minutes) is naean weaponry, jewellery and pottery from
signposted ‘Nestor’s Cave’; the path skirts tombs around Messinia. The prize pieces
the lagoon before leading towards Voidok- are the incomplete frescoes from the throne
ilia Beach through the sand dunes; a fork in rooms at Nestor’s Palace and the Linear B
the path leads up towards the cave where tablets (the latter are copies).
Hermes hid Apollo’s cattle, according to the Buses from Pylos to Kyparissia stop at
legend. From the cave, it’s a tough scramble Chora. If driving, follow signs for Kalamata.
 17 3
OLYMPIA ΟΛΥΜΠΙΑ oAncient Olympia HISTORIC SITE
(% 26240 22517; adult/concession €6/3, site & mu-
Most people come to Olympia for one rea-
seum €9/5; h 8am-8pm) The Olympic Games
son: to visit the historically important and
took place here for at least 1000 years, held
impressive site of Ancient Olympia, birth-
every four years until their abolition by Em-
place of the Olympic Games. Otherwise the
peror Theodosius I in AD 393. Today, the
surrounding region of Elia (Ελιά) is largely
Olympic flame continues to be lit here for
agricultural.
the modern Games. Thanks to the destruc-
Ancient Elia took its name from the myth-
tion ordered by Theodosius II and various
ical King Helios. Its capital was the city of
subsequent earthquakes, little remains of
Elis, now a forgotten ruin on the road from
the magnificent temples and athletic facili-
Gastouni to Lake Pinios. When the Franks
ties, but enough exists to give you a hint of
arrived, they made Andravida the capital of

Pe lo p o n n e se O
this World Heritage–listed sanctuary’s for-
their principate of Morea. Pyrgos is the un-
mer glory. The ancient site is a signposted
derwhelming modern capital.
five-minute walk from the modern village.
Wandering amid the tree-shaded ru-
88 Getting There & Around ins, you can almost picture the blood and
From the KTEL bus terminal (% 26210 20600; smoke of oxen sacrificed to Zeus and Hera;
www.ktelileias.gr) in Pyrgos, there are services the sweaty, oiled-up athletes waiting inside

G etting
to Athens (€27.70, four hours, up to 10 daily), the original stadium; the jostling crowds;

lympia T he r e & A r o u nd
Patra (€9, two hours, up to 10 daily), Andritsena and the women and slaves watching the
(€6.20, two hours, two daily except Friday and
proceedings from a nearby hill. It’s worth
Sunday), Kalamata (€13.10, two hours, two
daily) and Olympia (€2.20, 30 minutes, eight to remembering that some buildings precede
13 daily). others by centuries; a visit to the archaeo-
There’s also a small train that runs on the logical museum beforehand will provide
branch line from Pyrgos to Olympia. context and help with visualising the an-
cient buildings.
The first ruin encountered is the gymna-
sium, which dates from the 2nd century BC.
Olympia Ολυμπία South of here are the columns of the partly
POP 1000
restored palaestra (wrestling school), where
The compact modern village of Olympia
contestants practised and trained. The next
(o-lim-bee-ah), lined with souvenir shops and
building was the theokoleon (priests’
eateries, caters to the coach-loads of tourists
house). Behind it is Pheidias’ workshop,
who pass through on their way to the most
where the gargantuan ivory-and-gold Stat-
famous sight in the Peloponnese: Ancient
ue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the
Olympia. This is where myth and fact merge:
Ancient World, was sculpted. The workshop
it’s where Zeus allegedly held the first Olym-
was identified by archaeologists after the
pic Games to celebrate beating his father
discovery of tools and moulds. Beyond the
Cronos at wrestling. This is also birthplace
theokoleon is the leonidaion, an elaborate
of the ideal that still brings states together
structure that accommodated dignitaries.
and makes them put aside their differences
The Altis, or Sacred Precinct of Zeus,
for the sake of friendly atheletic competition,
lies east of the path. Its most important
just as it did more than 4000 years ago.
building was the immense 5th-century Dor-
Just 500m south of the village, across the
ic Temple of Zeus, which enshrined Pheid-
Kladeos River, the remains of Ancient Olym-
ias’ statue, later removed to Constantinople
pia rest amid luxurious greenery. As you
by Theodosius II (where it was destroyed by
walk around, or stand at the starting line of
fire in AD 475). One column of the temple
the ancient stadium, you may contemplate
has been restored and re-erected, and helps
the influence of this site through millennia.
put into perspective the sheer size of the
This is where they still light the Olympic
structure.
Flame every four years. This is where the
South of the Temple of Zeus is the
Games began.
bouleuterion (council house), which con-
1 Sights tains the altar of oaths, where competitors
swore to abide by the rules decreed by the
A handy website to the area is www.ancient Olympic Senate and not to commit foul play.
olympiahotels.gr.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
174

The Olympic Games

The Olympic Games were undoubtedly large audiences; traders clinched business
the ancient world’s biggest sporting deals; and city-state leaders attempted to
event and remain for most athletes resolve differences through diplomacy.
today the biggest of dreams. Then, as
now, the Games made warring states
Olympic Qualifications
temporarily halt their squabbles, and In Ancient Greece only free-born Greek
victorious competitors won great fame
males were allowed to compete in the
Games; the Romans changed the rules
and considerable fortune.
to include Roman citizens. Slaves and
women were not allowed to enter the
Origins of the Games Olympic sanctuary even as spectators;
Some Ancient Greek texts attribute the women trying to sneak in were thrown
founding of the Games to the hero Pelops; from Mt Typaion. Today’s Summer
others name Hercules as the founder who Olympics includes athletes from 204
made Zeus the patron god of the Olympic countries, with 88 countries competing in
sanctuary. The first official quadrennial the Winter Olympics.
Olympic Games were declared in 776 BC
by King Iphitos of Elis, took place around Demise & Rebirth
the first full moon in August, reaching the During Roman times the Games declined.
height of their prestige in 576 BC. Held for the last time in AD 393, they
During the ancient Games, writers, were banned by Emperor Theodosius I as
poets and historians read their works to part of a purge of pagan festivals.
 175

GRANT FAINT / GETTY IMAGES ©

LOUISA GOULIAMAKI / AFP / GETTY IMAGES ©

1. Wall mural depicting
athletes

SIMON DAWSON/BLOOMBERG / GETTY IMAGES ©

2. Lighting the flame
in Ancient Olympia in
preparation for the 2014
Sochi Winter Olympic
Games
3. Helliniko Olympic
complex, part of the
Athens 2004 Olympic
Games site

The modern Olympic Games were ANCIENT OLYMPICS VS MODERN

instituted in 1896 and, except during OLYMPICS
WWI and WWII, have been held every ¨¨ Contemporary opening ceremonies
four years around the world ever since. may involve such displays as James
The Olympic flame is lit at the ancient Bond parachuting in. In Ancient Greece,
site and carried by runners to the city it was all about sacrificing oxen to Zeus.
where the Games are held. ¨¨ Ancient Greek events included
wrestling, chariot and horse racing, the
Scandal & Controversies pentathlon (three foot races, the long
Throughout history the Olympics has jump and the discus), javelin, boxing and
been marred by scandals. These range pankration (few-holds-barred fighting).
from the farcical – Emperor Nero Today’s Summer Olympics have been
entering the chariot race in AD 67 joined by the Winter Olympics; a total
with 10 horses, ordering that other of 56 events across both games include
competitors could only have four, falling modified sprinting, equestrian, boxing
off and still being declared winner – to and wrestling.
the serious, including Israeli athletes ¨¨ Victorious ancient Olympians were
being murdered by Palestinian group crowned with sacred olive branches and
Black September in 1972, and Hitler enjoyed tax exemption and other privi-
refusing to award gold medals to African leges. Modern Olympians receive medals,
American sprinter Jesse Owens in 1936. TV fame and sponsorship fortune.
176

Ancient Olympia e0
#0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
7 Archaeological

D
Museum (200m)
D
Olympia
1
(500m) Klad 1
eos R

8 4 17 11
iver

22 18
16 19 12 10
13 14 5 Altis (Sacred
Precinct Hippodrome
21
20 of Zeus)
15 2
6
Pe lo p o n n e se O

2 3 2
1
9

A B C D
S ights

Ancient Olympia however, had to be content to watch from

lympia

outside on the Hill of Kronos.

1 Altar of Oaths ........................................B2 To the north of the Temple of Zeus was
2 Base of Victory......................................B2
the pelopion, a small, wooded hillock with
3 Bouleuterion (Council House) ............B2
4 East Portico of the Gymnasium.......... A1
an altar to Pelops, the first hero of the Olym-
5 Echo Portico ..........................................B2 pic Games. It was surrounded by a wall
6 Emperor Nero's Villa ............................C2 containing the remains of its Doric portico.
7 Entrance................................................. A1 Many artefacts now displayed in the muse-
8 Gymnasium ........................................... A1 um were found on the hillock.
9 Leonidaion .............................................B2 Further north is the 6th-century Doric
10 Metroön.................................................. B1 Temple of Hera, the site’s most intact struc-
11 Nymphaeum.......................................... B1
ture. Hera was worshipped along with Rea
12 Olympic Flame ...................................... B1
13 Palaestra (Wrestling School) ..............A2
until the two were superseded by Zeus. The
14 Pelopion .................................................B2 Hermes statue was found here.
15 Pheidias' Workshop..............................A2 To the east of this temple is the nymphae-
16 Philippeion ............................................. B1 um (AD 156–60), erected by the wealthy
17 Prytaneum ............................................. B1 Roman banker Herodes Atticus. Typical of
18 Stadium.................................................. C1 buildings financed by Roman benefactors,
19 Temple of Hera...................................... B1 it was grandiose, consisting of a semicircu-
20 Temple of Zeus .....................................B2
lar building with Doric columns flanked at
21 Theokoleon (Priest's House) ..............B2
22 Treasuries.............................................. B1
each side by a circular temple. The building
contained statues of Herodes Atticus and
his family, though Zeus took centre stage.
East of the temple is the echo portico, Despite its elaborate appearance, the nym-
with a Doric colonnade leading towards the phaeum had a practical purpose; it was a
stadium. Its remarkable acoustics meant that fountain house supplying Olympia with
a sound uttered within was repeated seven fresh spring water.
times. Just east of the portico are the remains Just in front of the nymphaeum is the spot
of a lavish villa used by Emperor Nero during where the altar of Hestia would have main-
his participation in the Games in AD 67; it tained a continuous fire during the Games,
replaced the original Sanctuary of Hestia. symbolising the fire stolen from the gods by
The stadium lies to the east of the Altis Prometheus; fires were also lit in the temples
and is entered through a stone archway. It’s of Zeus and Hera. Today, the Olympic Flame
rectangular, unlike today’s stadiums, and is lit where the Temple of Hestia once stood.
the stone start and finish lines of the 120m Beyond the nymphaeum and up a flight of
sprint track and the judges’ seats still sur- stone steps, a row of 12 treasuries stretched
vive. The stadium could seat at least 45,000 to the stadium, each erected by a city-state
spectators. Slaves and women spectators, for use as a storehouse for offerings to the
 17 7
gods; these were mainly used to advertise Museum of the History of the
the city-state’s prestige and wealth. Olympic Games in Antiquity MUSEUM
At the bottom of these steps are the scant (adult/concession €2/1; h 10am-5pm Mon, 8am-
remains of the 5th-century-BC metroön, a 3pm Tue-Fri) Beautifully presented displays
temple dedicated to Rea, the mother of the depict the history of the world’s most pres-
gods. Apparently the ancients worshipped tigious sporting competition. Learn about
Rea in this temple with orgies. its core original events (foot racing, wres-
The foundations of the philippeion, west tling, boxing and chariot racing); why it’s as-
of the Temple of Hera, are the remains of sociated with Hercules (or Pelops); and what
a circular construction with Ionic columns fate befell women who tried to watch the
built by Philip of Macedon to commemorate Games despite prohibitions. The sculptures,
the Battle of Chaironeia (338 BC), where he mosaics, pottery art and votive offerings all
defeated a combined army of Athenians and pay tribute to athletes and athleticism. Oth-

Pe lo p o n n e se O
Thebans. The building contained gold-and- er Games – Heraean, Nemean, Panathenaic,
ivory-covered statues of Philip and his fam- Pythian and Isthmian – also get a mention.
ily, including his son, Alexander the Great.
North of the philippeion was the pry- T Tours
taneum, the magistrate’s residence. Here, To really make the site come alive, it’s well
winning athletes were entertained and worth considering hiring a guide, especially

T olympia
feasted. if there are a few of you. Tours usually in-

urs
clude both the site and the Archaeological
oArchaeological Museum MUSEUM Museum, but any preference will be catered
(adult/concession €6/3; h 8am-8pm) This su- for. Recommended guides include Niki
perb museum at Ancient Olympia features Vlachou (% 6972426085; www.olympictours.
finds from the archaeological site. Visiting gr; 4½hr tour incl museum from €40 per person),
it before touring the ruins helps to put the who speaks English and French; Agelos
ancient site and its buildings into perspec- Koutras (% 26240 22602); and Marieta
tive. The museum’s exhibits span the Olym- Kolotourou (% 26250 23596), who speaks
pic sanctuary’s history, from the prehistoric English and Spanish.
to the Roman periods. Artefacts include
increasingly sophisticated ceramics, votive 4 Sleeping
offerings to Zeus and Hera, sacrificial caul- Hotel Pelops HOTEL €
dron adornments and statuary from the (% 26240 22543; www.hotelpelops.gr; Varela 2;
Temple of Hera. The main hall dramatically s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/50/70; ai W ) Op-
displays the biggest highlight: reassembled posite the church, this is among the town’s
pediments and metopes from the Temple of best contenders, with comfortable rooms.
Zeus. The delightful Greek–Australian owners,
Among the museum’s treasures, you the Spiliopoulos family, provide friendly,
may spot a tiny helmet (a votive offering), knowledgeable service and a decent break-
a bronze arm protector decorated with the fast. And, hurrah, there are tea and coffee
face of the Gorgon Medusa, a tiny bronze fig- facilities in each room.
ure of Silenus (tutor to Dionysis, the god of
wine) featuring optimistically proportioned Hotel Kronio HOTEL €
genitalia, and a 4th-century Parian marble (%26240 22188; www.hotelkronio.gr; Tsoureka 1;
statue of Hermes of Praxiteles, a master- s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/53/70; aiW) The
piece of classical sculpture from the Temple helpful, multilingual owner, Panagiotis,
of Hera. is a bonus at this pleasant spot that has
The pediments and metopes from the excellent-value bright and airy rooms.
Temple of Zeus deserve some extra atten-
Best Western Europa HOTEL €€
tion. The eastern pediment depicts the
(%26240 22650; www.hoteleuropa.gr; Drouva 1;
chariot race between Pelops and Oinomaos,
s/d/tr incl breakfast €70/90/100; paiWs)
while the western pediment shows the
fight between the centaurs and Lapiths at This family-run franchise is popular with
the wedding feast of Pirithous (the centaurs groups and families. Rooms have blond wood
got drunk and tried to abduct the women). and mod cons; larger rooms with balcony
The metopes depict the Twelve Labours of vistas are more luxurious. A bar, swimming
Hercules; half the fun is trying to work out pool, a decent poolside taverna under the ol-
which is which from the remains alone. ive trees, and excellent service seal the deal.
17 8
Arty Grand Hotel HOTEL €€ utes, eight to 13 daily), with four or five handy
(% 26240 26000; www.artygrandhotel.gr; d/tr/ste Athens connections, and to Tripoli (€14.30,
€90/105/128; paWs ) Though its hilltop three hours). Note: for tickets to Tripoli, reserve
location, 800m from the ruins, means that your seat with KTEL Pyrgos (p173) one day prior
the hotel is somewhat isolated, its spacious to travel; hotels will call on your behalf.
rooms are comfortable, the service is pleas- TRAIN
ant and the pool and spa are nice luxury Olympia train services head to/from Pyrgos
touches. The restaurant is nothing special, only – there are five departures daily (€2, 30
though. Popular with tour groups. minutes).

5 Eating
Olympia’s many tavernas cater largely to the Andritsena Ανδρίτσαινα
Pe lo p o n n e se A

lunchtime coach crowds and, as such, most POP 580

lack incentive to strive for excellence. Once the home of Panayotis Anagastopoulos,
Self-caterers will find a good supermarket one of the leaders in the War of Independ-
near the ELIN petrol station. ence, Andritsena sits on a hillside over-
looking the valley of the Alfios River, 65km
oTaverna Bacchus TAVERNA €
southeast of Pyrgos. Crumbling stone hous-
(% 26240 22298; www.bacchustavern.gr; Ancient es flank the village’s narrow cobbled streets
O ating
E

Pissa; mains €7-13; h lunch & dinner; p a W v ) and a stream bubbles its way through the
N
lympia

Bacchus, the god of wine, has extended his

DRITSENA

central square, Plateia Agnostopoulou. An-

portfolio to include delectable delights with dritsena is a handy springboard for visiting
fresh ingredients in this smart stone taver- the magnificent Temple of Epicurean Apol-
na in nearby Ancient Pissa. Standout dishes lo at Vasses.
include meatballs with rice; if you accept a
complimentary carafe of house wine from
the owner, you may also wish to book one
1 Sights
of Bacchus’ luxurious rooms (double/triple oTemple of Epicurean
€60/70) with pool access. Apollo at Vasses HISTORIC SITE
(% 26260 22275; adult/concession €3/2; h 8am-
Aegean GREEK € 8pm) Situated 14km southwest of Andrit-
(% 26240 22540; G Doyma 4; mains €7-12; h lunch sena, on a wild, isolated spot overlooking
& dinner; v ) One of a cluster of tavernas on rugged mountains and hills, the World
the main square, Aegean distinguishes itself Heritage–listed Vasses and its Temple of
by its extensive array of vegetarian dishes Epicurean Apollo is one of Greece’s most at-
served alongside Greek favourites. mospheric archaeological sites. The striking,
well-preserved temple is robbed of some of
oGarden Taverna GREEK €€
its splendour and immediate visual impact
(%26240 22650; Best Western Hotel Europa Inter- by the giant steel-girded tent that’s been pro-
national; mains €9.50-15; hlunch & dinner May-Sep; tecting it from the elements since 1987 for
W) Under olive trees in a tranquil garden restoration purposes, but it’s magnificent all
overlooking the valley below, this restaurant the same.
is the most original in Olympia. Alongside the The temple was built in 420 BC by the
excellent grilled meats you’ll find the likes of people of nearby Figalia, who dedicated it to
pasta in vodka cream sauce with smoked Apollo Epicurus (the Helper) for delivering
salmon and dill. The service is prompt and them from the plague. Designed by Iktinos,
attentive. Lunch is light bites only. the architect of the Parthenon, the temple
combines Doric and Ionic columns and a
88 Information single Corinthian column – the earliest ex-
National Bank of Greece (cnr Praxitelous ample of this order.
Kondyli & Stefanopoulou) The temple’s most prominent decoration –
Post office (Pierre Coubertin 3) a marble frieze depicting battles between
Greeks and Amazons, and between Lapiths
88 Getting There & Away and Centaurs – was spirited away in 1814
by ‘archaeologists’ who procured it from
BUS Greece’s Ottoman rulers and sold it to
Buses depart from in front of the train station. the British Museum, where it is currently
There are services to Pyrgos (€2.30, 30 min- displayed.
 17 9
No public buses run to Vasses. A return
taxi from Andritsena, including waiting
time, costs around €40. WINERY STOPOVER
Nikolopoulos Andritsena Mercouri Estate (% 26210 41601;
Library LIBRARY, MUSEUM www.mercouri.gr; tastings €10; h 9am-
(%26260 22242; h8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) F 3pm Mon-Sat), 1km north of Korakohori
In 1838 Konstantinos Nikopoulos, a compos- village and about 15km from Pyrgos,
er, archaeologist and member of the Greek is a worthwhile winery for a stop-off.
Resistance looking to liberate Greece from the This handsome estate produces a dry
Turks, donated 4000 rare books to his father’s white foloi, and a prize-winning rich red,
home town to establish a school. It was one its flagship Domaine Mercouri. It also
of Europe’s largest private book collections at runs tours of the grounds (reservations

Pe lo p o n n e se K
the time. Displayed along with manuscripts required).
from Greece’s 1821 Independence movement
is a cast of a frieze from the Temple of Epi-
curean Apollo at Vasses. Explanatory English ACHAÏA ΑΧΑΐΑ
video. It’s behind Hotel Theoxenia. The northern region of Achaïa comprises
some high and skiable mountain country
4 Sleeping & Eating (reached via a historic rack-and-pinion rail-

A leeping
S cha
yllini
For somewhere to eat, try any of the casual way), surprisingly little in the way of beach-
tavernas and grill places spread along the es, and a bustling port, Patra.

ïa
main street. Achaïa owes its name to the Achaeans, an
Indo-European branch of migrants who set-

& E ating
Archontico Hotel HOTEL €€ tled on mainland Greece and established the
(% 26260 22401; www.archontiko-andritsenas.gr; mighty Mycenaean civilisation. When the
d €60; pW ) Complete with terraces and art- Dorians arrived, the Achaeans were pushed
fully scattered amphorae, this fine historic into this northwestern corner of the Pelo-
building at the western end of the village ponnese, displacing the original Ionians.
offers snug rooms with exposed stone walls Legend has it that the Achaeans found-
and mod cons. ed 12 cities, which later developed into the
powerful Achaean Federation that survived
88 Getting There & Away until Roman times. Principal among these
Buses run to Athens (€24, two hours, one or cities were the ports of Patra and Egio (on
two daily) via Megalopoli, Tripoli and Corinth the coast of the Gulf of Corinth).
Isthmus.

Patra (Patras) Πάτρα

Kyllini Κυλλήνη POP 168,000

The port of Kyllini (kih-lee-nih), 78km Let’s face it: Patra is unlikely to be your fi-
southwest of Patra, is the jumping-off point nal destination or a place you’ll linger long.
for ferries to Kefallonia and Zakynthos. Most travellers pass straight through, board-
Most people arrive on buses from Patra to ing or disembarking from boats that sail be-
board the ferries. tween here, Italy and some Ionian Islands.
Ionian Ferries (www.ionianferries.gr) runs The largest city in the Peloponnese, Patra
to Zakynthos (€7.50/28.50 per adult/car, 1¼ is named after King Patreas who ruled
hours, four daily in summer) and to Poros Achaïa around 1100 BC. Little is evident of
(€8.80/37.90 per person/car, 1½ hours, one this busy port’s 3000 years of history, during
to two daily in summer) on Kefallonia. which it was an important trade centre un-
Two daily buses run to Kyllini from Pyrgos der the Mycenaeans and the Romans. There’s
(€6, one hour), and three to four buses daily a darker side to Patra: the derelict buildings,
run from the KTEL Zakynthos bus station groups of unemployed men hanging out by
in Patra (€8, 1¼ hours). Some connect with the docks and beggars contrast sharply with
ferries to Zakynthos (bus and ferry €15.90). the attractive squares and lively pedestrian
Note, however, when doing the reverse trip streets, and the bars and restaurants filled
there are no buses from Kyllini to Patra. A with the young and the trendy.
taxi to Patra costs around €60. Before you escape by boat or via the Rio–
Andirio suspension bridge, an engineering
1 80
feat that links the city with western conti- 4 Sleeping
nental Greece, it’s worth making the most Prices double at Carnival time; book well in
of Patra’s saving grace: the most diverse eat- advance.
ing and nightlife scene in the Peloponnese,
helped by the presence of Patra’s 20,000 Pension Nicos HOTEL €
university students. (% 2610 623 757; cnr Patreos 3 & Agiou Andre-
ou 121; s/d/tr €30/40/55, s/d without bathroom
1 Sights & Activities €25/35; a W ) This 1960s-style budget option
oArchaeological Museum on a busy street has flaking shutters on the
of Patras MUSEUM outside, but inside Nicos runs a tight ship
(% 2610 420 645; www.patrasmuseum.gr; with clean rooms on several floors and a
Patras-Athens National Rd 38-40; admission €4; roof terrace.
Pe lo p o n n e se PAT

h 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) This space-age muse-

oCity Loft Boutique Hotel APARTMENT €€
um, the country’s second largest, displays a
(% 2610 223 552; www.cityloft.gr; Valtetsiou 6;
thorough collection of regional objects from
1-/2-/3-person apt €75/110/130; paW ) Sleek
prehistoric to Roman times across three
and stylish apartments in white or black on
vast themed halls: Private Life, Public Life
a quiet side street several blocks north of
and Cemeteries. You may spot some extraor-
the main square. Perks include high-quality
dinary mosaics, barnacle-encrusted ampho-
A ights
S

bed linens, king-sized beds with orthopaedic

cha

rae, duck-shaped askos vessels, coin hoards,

mattresses, balconies and a small, attractive
a gold ring decorated with a tiny phallus,
R Aï a( PAT

garden.
oil lamps featuring erotic scenes, elabo-
& A ctivities

rate marble sarcophagi, Mycenaean bronze Maison Grecque BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€

swords from warrior burials and four skulls (% 2610 241 212; www.mghotels.gr; 25 Martiou 116;
R A S)

with funereal wreaths intact. s/d/ste incl breakfast €65/85/180; aW ) This

The museum is several kilometres north smart boutique spot has a touch of ‘sleek
of the centre. Greek’ pretension. Each room is decked out
uniquely (with an original ceiling fresco or
Kastro CASTLE
two thrown in) – think dark hues with me-
(h 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) F The kastro
tallic touches. A couple of the rooms have
stands on the site of the acropolis of an-
very small windows. The rest, however, are
cient Patrai. The Romans were the first to
sophisticated and smart. It’s a five-minute
build a fort here around AD 550, but the
walk from the pedestrianised centre.
present structure is of Frankish origin, re-
modelled many times over the centuries by Hotel Byzantino HOTEL €€
the Byzantines, Venetians and Turks. Set in (% 2610 243 000; www.byzantino-hotel.gr; Riga
an attractive pencil-pine park, it is reached Fereou 106; s/d/tr incl breakfast €75/85/100;
by climbing the 190-plus steps at the south- a W ) In a restored neoclassical building on
eastern end of Agio Nikolaou. Great views the lively main pedestrian street, this small
of Zakynthos and Kefallonia are the reward. hotel features appealing rooms with fancy
bedsteads, wooden floors and period furni-
Church of Agios Andreas CHURCH
ture. There’s a popular cafe downstairs.
(Agiou Andreou) Seating 5500 people, this
church is one of the largest in the Balkans. It
houses religious icons and paintings, plus St
5 Eating & Drinking
Andreas’ skull, along with part of the cross Trendy cafes, bars and restaurants line the
on which he was crucified. pedestrianised Riga Fereou (Michalakopou-
lou), the surrounding side streets and Agiou
z Festivals & Events Nikolaou. Cheap student eateries are along
Gerokostopoulou.
Patras Carnival CARNIVAL
(www.carnivalpatras.gr) Patra’s citizens party Labyrinthos GREEK €
hard during the annual Patras Carnival. The (%26102 26436; Poukevil 44; mains €6.50-12;
program begins in mid-January, and fea- hnoon-5.30pm & 8.30pm-1am Mon-Sat; Wv)
tures a host of minor events leading up to a Inside the rough stone walls of this 80-year-
wild weekend of costume parades, colourful old family restaurant, you can expect classics
floats and celebrations in late February or such as briam, dolmadhes and beef casse-
early March. role, as well as roasted lamb sweetbreads and
intestines for the adventurous epicurean.
 181

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Pe lo p o n n e se PAT
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(380m)
A B C D

oSalumeria FUSION €€ gering. Salads come in an enormous bowl

(Pantanassis 27; mains €11-13; hlunch & dinner; the size of Epidavros Theatre.
Wv) On a pedestrian street, this chichi bistro
with exposed stone walls offers a departure 88 Information
from Greek cuisine with the likes of smoked Internet cafes are plentiful around Plateia Olgas.
salmon with black lentils and seared ca- First aid centre (% 2610 277 386; cnr Karolou
lamari with sweet potato and wilted greens. & Agiou Dionysiou; h 8am-8pm)
In the evenings it’s a popular wine bar. National Bank of Greece (Plateia Trion Syma-
hon; h 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the train
Bodegas Wine Bar WINE BAR
station.
(% 2610 221 113; Riga Feraiou 147; h lunch & din-
Post office (cnr Zaïmi & Mezonos; h 7.30am-
ner) Whether you’re nursing a margarita or a
8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)
glass of wine from the extensive list of Greek
Tourist police (% 2610 695 191; Gounari 52;
vintages, this stylish bar is a spot worth lin-
h 7.30am-9pm)
1 82
88 Getting There & Away Kyllini, from where you catch a ferry to Poros (1½
hours) and continue again by road to Argostoli
BOAT (one hour). Buses also depart KTEL Kefallonia
The passenger port is 1km south of town. Ferry bus station to Amfissa (for Delphi; €13, three
offices are located at the port, and there are also hours, two daily Monday to Friday, one on Satur-
boat agencies located along waterfront Otho- day and Sunday) and to Tripoli (€18.90, one to
nos Amalias and its northern extension, Iroön two daily Friday and Sunday).
Polytehniou. Ferry schedules and prices change The KTEL Zakynthos bus station (% 2610
seasonally; ring ahead. There are no ferries 220 993; www.ktel-zakynthos.gr; Othonos Ama-
directly to Corfu; ferries to Corfu depart from lias 84) has services to Zakynthos, via the port
Igounemitsa only. of Kyllini (including ferry €16, 3½ hours, two to
Domestic three daily).
Patra is the departure point for ferry services to TRAIN
Pe lo p o n n e se K

Kefallonia and Ithaki. There are six trains a day to Athens (€17). At the
Strintzis Lines (% 2610 240 000; www.strint time of writing, a replacement bus goes as far as
zisferries.gr) has services to Sami, on Kefallonia, Kiato, from where you take the proastiako, Ath-
(€18.20/50 per person/car, three hours, two ens’ local train service. Note: on arrival in Athens
daily). The same service continues to Vathy, on you can use your proastiako ticket for 1½ hours
Ithaki, once daily (€18.60/55, 3¾ hours). on the metro (validate it first).
A cha
G

International
88 Getting Around
alav
etting

Patra is Greece’s main port for ferry services to

Hertz (% 26102 20990; www.hertz.gr; Akti
ï ar yta

Italy, with departures to Ancona, Bari and Ven-

ice. Some ferries may stop at Igoumenitsa and Dimaion 40) Recommended, reliable car-hire
outlet.
T he r e & Away

Corfu; no free stopovers permitted.

Superfast Ferries/Blue Star Ferries (% 2610
623 574; www.superfast.com; Othonos Amalias
12), ANEK Lines (% 21041 97400; www.anek. Kalavryta Καλάβρυτα
gr; cnr Othonos Amalias & Aratou) and Minoan POP 1800
Lines (% 2610 426 000; www.minoan.gr; Iroön Perched 756m above sea level, Kalavryta
Politehniou 50 ) run trips to Ancona (from €71, (kah-lah-vrih-tah) is a delightful little town
21 to 24 hours), Bari (from €81, 15½ hours) and with fresh mountain air, gushing springs and
Venice (from €77, 31 hours). Some Minoan Lines a square that nestles under giant plane trees.
services continue to Trieste.
Though in existence for centuries, the pres-
Note: we give prices for deck seats; prices are ent-day town came into being on the ruins
higher for airline seats and cabins. Check up-to-
of ancient Kinaitha in the mid-19th century.
date schedules on websites.
The town is a popular ski-season destination
BUS among Athenians, who also come for week-
The KTEL Achaia bus station (% 2610 623 886; end getaways year round. In spring and sum-
www.ktelachaias.gr; Othonos Amalias 4) has mer, visitors from abroad come here to hike
services to the following places: and visit the nearby monasteries.
Athens (€19, three hours, every 30 minutes) Two relatively recent historical events have
via Diakofto and Corinth Isthmus (€12.60, 1½ assured Kalavryta a place in the hearts of
hours) all Greeks. First, despite plenty of evidence
Ioannina (€24, 4½ hours, two daily) that fighting had already begun elsewhere,
Kalamata (€23, four hours, two daily) the official version of the War of Independ-
Kalavryta (€7, two hours, at least two daily) ence states that the revolt against the Turks
Pyrgos (€9, two hours, up to 10 daily) began here on 25 March 1821, when Bishop
Thessaloniki (€45, seven hours, three daily) Germanos of Patra raised the Greek flag at
Buses link the KTEL Achaia bus station in Patra Moni Agias Lavras (p185), a monastery 5km
with Terminal A (aka Kifissos) in Athens, from from town. Second, on 13 December 1943, in
where there are frequent buses to/from the one of the worst atrocities of WWII, the Nazis
international airport. massacred most of the village’s male inhabit-
The KTEL Kefallonia bus station (% 2610 274 ants as part of their scorched-earth Operation
938; www.ktelkefalonias.gr; Othonos Amalias Kalavryta, designed to punish Kalavryta par-
58) has services to the Ionian islands of Lefkada tisans in particular for the deaths of German
(€16.20, three hours, twice weekly) and Kefal- prisoners of war. The hands of the old cathe-
lonia (€21.10, one daily). To continue on to Arg- dral clock stand eternally at 2.34pm, the time
ostoli, travel by bus from Kefallonia to the port of the German guns finally fell silent.
 183
1 Sights KALAVRYTA CITYPASS
oMuseum of the Kalavryta
Holocaust MUSEUM For bargain sightseeing in and around
(% 26920 23646; www.dmko.gr; 1-5 Syngrou; ad- Kalavryta, the Kalavryta CityPass
mission €3; h 9am-4pm Tue-Sun) The country’s (www.trainose.gr) discount card covers
only Holocaust museum, this is a powerful a return trip on the Diakofto–Kalavryta
tribute to the residents of Kalavryta who railway and entrance to the Cave of the
perished in the 13 December 1943 slaughter Lakes, the Kalavryta Holocaust Muse-
perpetrated by the Nazis. It’s a dignified, un- um, and either Kalavryta Ski Centre
derstated, yet extremely evocative account or the Tetramythos Winery, saving you
of the struggle between the occupying forces 40% overall. The card costs €24.80, is
and partisan fighters in the area, and the valid for a month and can be purchased

Pe lo p o n n e se K
events running up to the massacre – an at Kalavryta, Diakofto or Patra train
atrocity reported to be partly put in motion stations.
by the partisans’ execution of a group of Ger-
man prisoners.
Set inside the rebuilt old schoolhouse
4 Sleeping
that was set on fire with women, children Lodges are dotted outside Kalavryta; the
and the elderly inside, the museum depicts town itself has a few hotel options. Peak

A ights
S
period is the ski season (from December to

cha
alavï ar yta
the history of 19th- and 20th-century Ka-
lavryta, the advent of the rack-and-pinion April), at which time reservations are es-
railway and the region’s suffering during sential. Weekend bookings are a good idea
WWII through evocative photographs and year-round. Prices are slashed on weekdays.
personal effects. If you roll into town without a reservation,
ELAS, the Greek resistance movement, look inside the shelter in front of the train
was very active in the Kalavryta region dur- station; all the accommodation options are
ing WWII. On 17 October 1943 partisans listed, and those with vacancies are lit up
captured a German batallion. Negotiations green, Austrian-style. Also check www.kala
stalled when the Nazis launched ‘Operation vrita-hotels.gr, which has some good options.
Kalavryta’, designed to crush the resistance. The cheapest accommodation is in the do-
The partisans killed the German prisoners matia on the streets behind the train station.
and in retaliation, on 13 December 1943, the Hotel Filoxenia HOTEL €
Nazis herded 468 men and boys over the (%26920 22422; www.hotelfiloxenia.gr; Ethnikis
age of thirteen to the nearby Kappi Ridge Andistasis 10; d/tr incl breakfast €53/65; paW)
and gunned them down. The women and Kind of like an old-fashioned ski lodge with
children who managed to break out of the its handsome stone exterior, Filoxenia has
burning schoolhouse were left with the somewhat dowdy rooms with balconies (and
task of gathering and burying the dead, as jacuzzi tubs). Rates include either a sauna,
commemorated by the statues behind the hammam or hydromassage session per day.
schoolhouse.
Whatever you do, don’t pass by the videos Tsovolos Apartments APARTMENT €
on continuous loop dotted throughout the (% 26920 22292; Kosta Fassou 14; d/tr/apt incl
exhibition. These are the accounts of surviv- breakfast €30/45/55; W ) Towards the west
ing townspeople who escaped death, some end of town, near the EKO petrol station,
of whom were children at the time. The these warm, snug rooms and two-bedroom
walls covered with pictures of the dead Kal- apartments are basic but offer good value.
avryta villagers and the names of the dead is There are shared tea-making facilities but
an especially stark memorial. breakfast is unlikely to thrill you.
Martyrs’ Monument MONUMENT oArchontiko Zafeiropoulou APARTMENT €€
A huge white cross on a cypress-covered hill- (%26920 24500; www.archontiko.gr; Striftompala;
side just east of town marks the site where d/ste incl breakfast €90/130; pW) These doubles
the Nazis machine-gunned 486 men and boys and suites are essentially spacious, spotless
from Kalavryta on 13 December 1943. Only 13 studio apartments with kitchenettes. The real
survived the massacre. Beneath this impos- treasure here is the friendly South African–
ing monument is a poignant little shrine to Greek owner, George, who has an outstand-
the victims. It’s signposted off Konstantinou. ing knowledge of the town and surrounding
184

RIDING THE MOUNTAIN RAILS

One of the unmissable journeys to make in the Peloponnese is aboard the tiny train run-
ning along the vintage rack-and-pinion Diakofto–Kalavryta Railway (% 26910 43206;
www.odontotos.com; one way/return €9.50/19) between Diakofto and Kalavryta. It takes
travellers on a remarkably scenic ride through the dramatic Vouraïkos Gorge, its reddish
cliffs seemingly closing in on the train. The line switches back and forth under a leafy
canopy of plane trees, clinging to a narrow ledge overhanging the rushing rapids below,
and passing through seven curving tunnels along the way.
To reach Kalavryta, the train climbs over 700m in 22.5km, using a rack-and-pinion
(cog) system for traction on the steep sections, effectively clamping itself to the notched
Pe lo p o n n e se K

girder you can see running between the rails. Built by an Italian company between 1889
and 1895, the railway was a remarkable feat of engineering for its time, with only a hand-
ful of equivalents around the world (most notably in the Swiss Alps). The trains running
the route are shiny and modern, but the original steam engines that first plied the route
can still be seen outside Diakofto and Kalavryta stations.
The journey takes just over an hour, and stops en route at the picturesque hamlet of
Zahlorou and two other tiny stations on demand, in case you want to be dropped off at
A ating
E

one and walk to another. The railway makes an even more scenic hike, as you have more
cha
alavï ar yta

time to appreciate your surroundings.

Hiking the 22km down from Kalavryta to Diakofto takes around five hours; train
drivers are used to hikers along the tracks and give them plenty of warning. Take a torch
& D r inking

(flashlight) for the tunnels.

At the time of writing there were three departures on weekdays and five on weekends
in each direction; confirm times at the respective train stations.
Kalavryta is linked by regular buses to Athens and Patra. To get to Diakofto, catch the
only ‘working’ train line, Corinth–Patra, with OSE replacement buses running in place of
trains along the Diakofto–Kiato section at time of writing. On leaving Diakofto, you can
catch the same replacement bus service west to Patra or, to head east, take the replace-
ment bus service to Kiato, from where you catch the proastiako train, either to Corinth
or as far as Athens airport.

attractions, and handy maps at hand. The ex- Gri Gri Café SWEETS €
cellent breakfast includes local sheep’s milk (25 Martiou; snacks €1.70-4; h 8am-8pm) This
yoghurt, honey, preserves and cheeses. good family-run spot is recommended for its
sweet or savoury homemade snacks, such as
Hotel Kynaitha HOTEL €€
cheese pie, baklava and tasty crèma (sweet,
(% 26920 22609; www.kynaitha.com; Ethnikis set custard).
Andistasis 11; d/tr/ste incl breakfast €65/77/145;
pW ) Modern and comfortable with spa-
cious and attractively furnished rooms. 88 Information
Think exposed stone walls, gleaming white The train station is on the northern edge of
bathrooms and posh toiletries. town, opposite the Holocaust Museum. To the
right of the museum is Syngrou/25 Martiou, a
5 Eating & Drinking pedestrian precinct. To the left of the museum is
Konstantinou.
There’s an abundance of tavernas and cafes,
The central square, Plateia Kalavrytou, is two
mostly along 25 Martiou.
blocks up from the train station.
To Spitikou TAVERNA € The ticket office at the train station doubles as
(%26920 24260; Vasileos Constantinou; mains a tourist office.
€7-12; hlunch & dinner; Wv) This cosy place National Bank of Greece (25 Martiou) Just
with a ski-lodge feel serves up great-quality before Plateia Kalavrytou.
traditional taverna meals. Expect the likes of Post office (h 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Behind
veal with tomato sauce, chicken baked with Plateia Kalavrytou.
vegetables, spinach and feta soufflé and quite
possibly the best tzatziki in the Peloponnese.
 185
88 Getting There & Around A taxi from Kalavryta costs around €40
The rack-and-pinion train to/from Diakofto via
return (the taxi will wait for you). There’s a
Zahlorou runs to a changing timetable. good taverna right next to the cave entrance.
There are buses to Patra (€8, two hours, five Moni Mega Spileo MONASTERY
daily on weekdays, two on weekends) and Ath- (Monastery of the Great Cavern; %26920 23130;
ens (€17, three hours, two Monday to Saturday, h8am-1pm & 2pm-sunset summer) F Moni
one Sunday). The bus station (% 26920 22224)
Mega Spileo is a 3km walk up from Zahlor-
is 200m before the entrance to town (from the
Diakofto approach road), beside the Jetoil petrol ou. The original monastery was destroyed
station. in 1943 when Nazis executed all the monks.
Kalavryta’s taxi rank (% 26920 22127) is in
The new monastery’s most prized relic is
front of the train station. the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary, said
Most of the attractions are out of town, so it’s
to have been painted by St Luke. It was sup-

Pe lo p o n n e se A
very handy to have your own transport. posedly discovered in the nearby cavern by
St Theodore and St Simeon in AD 362, but
most likely dates back to around AD 1000.
A round Kalavryta Popular with pilgrims; strict dress code
applies.
Kalavryta and its surrounding mountains Call ahead outside of summer.
feature several varied and interesting sites.

G cha
Moni Agias Lavras

r
While some are just outside the town, others

etting
MONASTERY

o u ïnd
are further afield but doable in a car. (% 26920 22363; h 10am-1pm & 4-5pm) F
The original 10th-century monastery that

a KTalav
1 Sights & Activities stood here was burnt down by the Nazis,
and its monks killed. The chapel of the

he r er&yta
Cave of the Lakes CAVE
(% 26920 31001; www.kastriacave.gr; adult/con- new monastery is where Greece’s War of
cession €9/4.50; h 9.30am-4.30pm, longer hours Independence was allegedly launched; the
in summer) The remarkable Cave of the Lakes banner standard from the war is displayed

A r o u nd
lies 16.5km south of Kalavryta near the vil- alongside monastic memorabilia. The mon-
lage of Kastria. A 500m boardwalk snakes astery is around 5km southwest of Kalavry-
its way through the cave, through the vast ta. A taxi from Kalavryta costs around €20
entrance chamber, home to five species of return.
bats, past spectacular cauliflower-like rock Ski Centre SKIING
formations, and over the deep, crystal-clear (% 26920 24451; www.kalavrita-ski.gr; half-/full
subterranean pools – the 13 stone basins day €18/25; h 9am-4pm Dec-Apr) Head 14km
formed by mineral deposits over the millen- east of Kalavryta on Mt Helmos (2355m) to
nia. The most impressive formations are in the Ski Centre (elevation 1700m to 2340m),
the final chamber, where delicate, ribboning which has 12 runs and seven lifts (two chair-
curtains cascade down the wall. lifts). There’s no overnight accommodation
The cave features in Greek mythology and but it rents skis and snowboard equipment
is mentioned in the writings of the ancient (€20 for boots and skis or a snowboard). The
traveller Pausanias, but its whereabouts season lasts from December to April, snow
remained unknown in modern times until permitting. A taxi costs about €40 return.
1964 when locals investigated, having no-
ticed water pouring from the roof of a small- Tetramythos Winery WINERY
er cave. They discovered a large bat-filled (%26910 97500; www.tetramythoswines.com;
cavern at the start of a 2km-long cave carved h9am-4pm) Located in Ano Diakofto village
out by a subterranean river. (not to be confused with Diakofto), 5km
Access is by guided half-hour tour (in along the road from Diakofto to Kalavry-
Greek) only. Foreign visitors are provided ta, this winery is run by two local brothers
with a booklet in English; the sight at each who take a lot of pride in their agiorgitiko,
designated stop along the boardwalk corre- cabernet sauvignon, tetramythos, mala-
sponds to the letter in the booklet. gousia and other vintages. Tours and free
wine-tasting sessions are very worthwhile.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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