HELEN N.

TORQUATOR
JENNELYN A. JUSTO
INSTRUCTORS
 STCS GOALS

1. To develop well-rounded Learners with ethical and moral standards imbibed with social consciousness,
equipped with technical, entrepreneurial
and managerial competence.

2. To prepare academically and technically trained workers for the industry in the competitive global market.
 OVERVIEW of the Module

Garment technology is a discipline where you learn the different aspects of

production of garments. The course is designed for those who have never had any
exposure to the industry level sewing, but wants to make a career in field. The
demand of Garment Technologist is huge right now, and you’ve got a great chance of
landing the job you want.

Purpose of the module

 This part will provide knowledge of different tools used in clothing construction.
The skillful use of different sewing equipment will help take body measurement and
drafting of pattern with accuracy and speed. Assembling of the different parts of
children’s dress will help the beginners to enhance sewing skills.

Module Title and description

This module is an introductory course in Sewing Fundamentals and Sewing

Children Dresses. This is designed for first year student of Bachelor of Science in
Industrial Technology major in Garment technology. Which include the use of sewing
tools, materials and equipment, body measurement, pattern drafting, and
assembling of children’s dress.

Module Guide

WEEK TOPIC
1-3 Sewing Tools and Equipment
1.1The different tools and equipment.
1.2 Operating, Caring and identifying its part of sewing machine.
1.3 Correcting the common causes of sewing machine.

4-5 Measurement
2.1 Reading the tape measure.
2.2 The points of the body to be measured..

2.3 The Standard measurement for children’s dress.

6-7 Pattern Drafting on Children’s Dress

3.1 Drafting basic pattern on blouse, skirt and sleeve for children’s
dress

8-11 Sewing Basic

4.1 Basic hand stitches
4.2 Kinds of seam
4.3 Kinds of facing
12-16 Cutting and Sewing Children’s Dresses
5.1 Identify different Body lines of children’s dress.

5.2 Enumerate the Steps Preliminary to cutting.

5.3 How to prepare fabric before cutting.

5.4 Marking and Cutting Children’s Dress.

5.5 Assembling and Sewing Children’s Dress.

17-18 Health and safety protocol

This part will provide knowledge of the different tailored garment tools, materials
and equipment that are necessary in drafting of pattern and sewing children’s
dresses. It provides assessment activities and related web link to provide
independent learning opportunities for the student

Module Outcome

TOPIC COURSE OUTCOMES

Sewing Tools and Enumerate the sewing tools and equipment

Equipment used in drafting, operate the sewing machine
and construct stitches.

Measurement Read the tape measure accurately and

perform body measurement which are:
(vertical, horizontal and circumferential) and
Pattern Drafting on Draft and cut pattern on children’s
blouse, skirt and sleeve for
Children’s Dress
 Sewing Basic Identify basic hand stitches, kinds of seam
and kinds of facing
Cutting and Sewing Cut and sew Children’s Dress
Children’s Dress
Health and Safety Practice Evaluate and control hazard and risk

At the end of this module, the learners should be able to enumerate sewing
tools and equipment, read the tape measure, perform body measurement, draft and
cut pattern, cut fabric, assemble cut parts and apply finishing touches on children’s
dress and evaluate hazard and risk.

Module Requirement

Read and understand the Course outcomes and learning outcome. This will tell
you what you should know and be able to do at the end of this module. It is not
enough to acquire content of information. You must be able to demonstrate what
your application question directs you to do. In other word you must be able to apply
what you have learned in
real life.

PRE – ASSESSMENT

Direction: Choose the letter of the best answer.

1. Used to shape the depth of the neck hole and armhole of the bodice pattern.
a. tape measure c. French curve
b. hip curve d. L-square
2. A measuring tool that perfects squares and is useful in making straight lines.
 a. L-square b. ruler
b. Tape measure d. meter stick
3. An equipment that makes sewing easier and faster.
a. working table c. electric iron
b. sewing machine d. iron board
4. Done during construction of a garment to ensure fit and neat appearance.
a. Sewing c. pressing
b. Maintenance d. coloring
5. The sixth line of an inch is:
a. ½ c.1inch
b. ¾ d.1/4
6. The body measurement from top going down is:
a. Horizontal c. circumferential
b. Diagonal d. vertical
7. It is sometimes called foundation pattern.
a. Block c. final
b. Drape d. construction
8. What is the divisor for the hip measurement?
a.2 c. 4
b.1 d. 3
9. It is taken exactly around the waist line plus 2 inches
a. 2nd hip c. 1st hip
b. bust d. waist
10. Which of the following is used in assembling dress?
a. thimble c. pin cushion
b. thread and scissor d. zipper

KEY TERMS

Altering- changing portion of the garment so that it fits the body

Cutting tools- a tool used for cutting
Measuring tools- an instrument used for obtaining quantity, dimension, or forces
of real world object.
Pinning tool- used to hold fabric so that it will not move
Marking tools- a textile mechanism used to transfer markings on fabric
Sewing tools – an instrument that aids in accomplishing sewing task
Fabric – a cloth used in making garments
Thread – used to connect two fabrics
Accuracy – the exactness of a measured distance or circumference
Calculation – the process or an act of calculating
Calculator – an electronic device used for speed computation
Conversion – a change of figures like changing from centimeters to inches and vice
versa
Cost – the amount paid or charge for something that is acquired
English System – the English system has inches for its basic unit
Grain – the direction of fabric threads
Hemline – the marked line at the bottom of the garment where the hem is turned
IMC – Individual Measurement Chart
Length – the longer or longest dimension of an object to measure
Measurement – a systematic procedure of determining the quantity or extent of
the entire measurable dimension
Metric System – a decimal system of physical units based on a unit of length known
as the meter (Greek metron, “measure”)
Pattern – a piece of paper usually one-half of the body parts used as a guide in
cutting the garments
Width – measurement taken at the shortest dimension of the object to measure

Accuracy – the quality of correctness

Appropriate – suitable, fit, proper or becoming
Block – draft pattern with allowance
Construction – the entire process of making garment
Creativity – the quality of being to produce new ideas in dress designing
Criteria – a correct judgment based on standard
Cutting line – the line where the pattern is cut
Draft – a pattern sketch made the following body measurement
Drafting tools – are the measuring, shaping and marking tools that are used in drafting pattern
Dressmaking – the process of making garments for women
Evaluation – accurate appraisal of work based on the given criteria
Good fit – the garment is appropriate to the persons figure
Pattern – usually ½ or ¼ part of a garment cut from pattern paper to be used as guide for
cutting the fabric
Perpendicular line – two lines meeting in the right angle

Biological –bacteria, viruses, insect, plant, birds, animals and human etc.
Chemical – depends on the physical, chemical and toxic properties of the chemical.
Environment – the circumstances that conditions that surrounds one.
Ergonomic – repetitive movement, improper set up of work station.
Exposure – the condition of being exposed, especially to severe weather or other forces of nature.
Health – the overall condition of an organism at a given time.

Industry – a specific branch of manufacture and trade.

Injury – damage or harm done to or suffered by a person or thing.
Harmful – causing or capable of causing harm.
Obligation – the act of binding oneself by a social, legal, or moral tie.
Physical – radiation, magnetic fields, pressure extremes ( high pressure or vacuum ) , noise.
Protective – giving or capable of giving protection.
Psychosocial – stress, violence, etc.
Responsibility – the ability or authority to act or decide on once own , without any supervision.
Safety – freedom about the danger or risk of injury.
Textile – a cloth, especially one manufactured by weaving or knitting; a fabric.
Workplace – a place, such as an office or factory, where people are employed
Acronyms:
PPE – Personal Protective Equipment
OSH –Occupational Safety and Health
RADHAZ – Radiation Hazard
HERP – Hazard of Electromagnetic Radiation to Personnel
HERO – Hazard of Electromagnetic Radiation to Ordinance
HERF- Hazard of Electromagnetic Radiation to Fuel

LESSON I

Sewing Tools and Equipment

It is important that sewers have kit of basic tools .When buying sewing equipment, select quality items. Proper
care and storage of sewing tools will prolong their life and condition. Most sewing tools are designed to right
handed people, but some are available to those that left handed. During this lesson, the learners will become
acquainted with basic tools, including their purpose and how to use them properly and safely.

Intended Learning Outcome

At the end of this module, learners should be able to:

1. Identify and demonstrate the safe use of sewing tools.
2. Operate and identify its parts of sewing machine.
3. Can correct the common causes of machine trouble.
 4. Create the seven fundamental machin stitching,

LET’S START

LO1

Identify and demonstrate the safe use of sewing tools

Let us determine how much you already know about the use of sewing tools and
equipment

Pretest LO 1
Direction: Read each item carefully and choose the letter of the best answer from the choices below.
1. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets.
a. Bar tacking machine b. Hi-speed lockstitch machine
c. Sewing machine d. Embroidery machine
2. A machine that is run by foot which may also be converted to electric power machine .
a. high speed over edger b. over edging machine
c. lockstitch machine d. hemmer machine
3. This is used in making fancy stitches and making different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabric.
a. over edging b. button holer machine
c. embroidery machine d. hemmer machine
4. The mechanism that sets the machine in motion.
a. balance wheel b. feed dog
c. belt d. stitch regulator

5. The part of sewing machine that control the looseness and tightness of stitches.
a. thread guide b. upper tension
c. presser foot d. presser foot
6. The appropriate cutting tools used in cutting fabric.
a. pinking shears b. dressmaker bent handled shears
c. trimming scissor d. button hole scissor
7. A flexible tape with two types of measurement accurate for taking body measurement.
a. hem gauge b. ruler
c. tape measure d. yard stick
8. A small hard fitted cup worn to protect finger that pushes the needle in hand sewing.
a. pin b. needle
c. thimble d. seam ripper
9. This is used to shape the depth of neck hole and arm hole of the pattern.
a. hip curve b. French curve
c. ruler d. tape measure
10.It is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garments.
a. fabric b. thread
c. dressmakers carbon paper d. tracing wheel

THINK and REFLECT

Answer the following questions.

1. Sewing tools are very important in constructing of garment.
How does it help to the master cutters and designers?
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________

2. What are the effects of being skillful in using sewing tools and
equipment.
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________

3. What do you think will happen if sewing tools are not complete in the process of construction?
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
TOOLS and EQUIPMENT

I. MEASURING TOOLS/ Drafting Tools

Tape measure – A flexible measuring device used in taking

body measurement one side has the measurement of 150
centimeters while the other side has the measurement of 60
inches

Sewing gauge – A small ruler with a sliding guide and is

about 6 inches long, used for the measurement of hem lines,
buttonhole and areas where small measurements required
checking such as pleats and tucks.

Ruler – Measuring 12 inches or 18 inches ……. Connecting lines.

They are graduated in inches and centimeters which commonly
made of wood or plastic.

Yard Stick – Is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood on metal. It

is used for marking and checking grainlines when laying out the
pattern. And has 39 inches long in one side and 100 centimeters in
the other side.
 L-Square – Or tailors square divide the garment
into the desired measurement. It perfect squares
and is useful in marking straight lines and numbers.
It can also function like a tape measure. It has two
arms connected perpendicularly.

 The longer arm is 24inch long

 The shorter arm is 14inch long
“Characteristic of Longer Arm”
Has six column parts
1/24
1/12
1/6
1/3
2/3
By inch or 24inch column
At the other side made of 24inch at the
corner of the L-square is 90degree angle.
“Characteristic of Shorter Arm”
At the start of the corner of the short arm core can
observe the following
A. 1/32
B. 1/16
C. 1/8
D. 1/4
In the other L-square the shorter arm has 16th, 8th, 4th, ½
and by the inches.
The back part of the arm contains a 4inch measurement.
The two arms are secured with a curved metal sheet on
the inner portion
.

Hip Curved – Is used in connecting or shaping

curve points. The front part of the curve has a
measure of inches. At the back part is a measure
of centimeters. It is marked every five
centimeters.
 French Curve – This is used to the
depth of the neck hole and arm hole of the
pattern.

II CUTTING TOOLS

The blade moves easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points
should come Are instruments that serves well if properly maintained. The joints are oiled
ones in a while for better use.

Bent Handled Dress-makers Shears – There are made of quality

steel and hold a sharp cutting together, shears have the length 7-
12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabric.

Pinking Shears – This popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge of

for seam finisher. This is used for finished seam and raw edges
and to create decorative edge. This is not satisfactory for straight
cutting.

Trimming Scissor – This is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimming,

dipping thread and snipping slashes.
 Embroidery Scissor – It has 4-5 inches finely taped blade. Both points
are sharp for use in working with the fine details in delicate fabrics and
in embroidery work.

Buttonhole Scissor – This is intended for making buttonhole.

Thread Clippers – A handy little spring loaded cutting tool

that allows for the snipping of threads. This clipper is
specifically used to snip threads and they are not designed to
cut fabric.

Seam Ripper – Specifically designed for ripping out stitches from seams
either as a result of an error or during alterations. They should be used
carefully to prevent damage to the fabric.

Rotary Cutter and Mat – It is an adaption of the giant rotary cutter used
by the garment industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can be used by
left or right handed sewer. The rotary cutter is available in different sizes
with different blades. When using a rotary cutter work on a cutting mat to
protect the blade and the cutting surface.
III.MARKING TOOLS

Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to garment fabric pieces
and for making alteration on garments

Chalk pencil/Dressmaker pencil - This is available in

white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is used to make
fine lines on fabric. It has an erasing brush at one end.

Liquid marking tools – comes in two type. The one that

washes out and the one that fades after 48 hrs. Those that
wash out should not be used on fabric that show water mark.
The mark should be removed before pressing the fabric.

Tailors chalk – This is essential as a marker for use on materials.

It is available in range of colors and is removed by brushing.

Wax chalk – This is available in black or white and is used for

woolen fabrics. Wax can be removed by pressing.
 Tracing wheel – There are two types of tracing wheels, those with
a serrated edge and those with smooth edge. The serrated edge
will produce dots on fabric and is suitable for most type of fabrics.
The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabric that create a
solid line.

Dressmakers carbon paper – Also called dressmakers tracing paper is a

specially waxed carbon paper that transfer the tracing paper wheels
marking to the fabric. A color of tracing paper should be chosen that is
close to the color of the fabric. Different Brands of the tracing paper has
different instruction therefore the instruction of the particular brand
should be fallowed.

Pattern paper – is an indispensable materials used for drafting of

patterns and marking and transferring lines to fabric.

“Measuring and shaping tools are also necessary in drafting”

“Measuring and shaping tools are also

necessary in drafting”

V. PINNING and SEWING TOOLS

 Pins – are used to hold pieces of materials
together.

Weights – are heavy objects place on top of pattern or fabric when

tracing, for them not to move

Hand needle – used in making temporary stitches and button holes.

Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand sewing. However, sturdy fabrics
need larger size of needle.

Thimble – is used to pushed the needle end and to protect finger

from getting harm.
 Pin cushion – is a bag of cotton where pins and
needles are pricked or placed when not in used.
Rayon, velvet or worsted fabrics are commonly
used for the covering of the cushion.

Sewing Needle Threader – It aids in putting the

thread to the needle. It consists of two parts. The
handle and the wire. The end of the wire that is
away from the holder is folded. Place the folded
wire of the needle threaded through the eye of the
sewing needle.

Sewing box – is a container for all tools and materials in

sewing.

Fabric- The cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabric,
flour sack or catcha is the most appropriate material for beginners
because these are very easy to handle.
 Thread – is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the
garment. Thread vary in size. Heavy fabric need stronger thread.
Thread should have the same color of the fabric used.

KINDS OF THREAD

1. Mercerized cotton- is strong and do not shrink. This is suitable for light and medium weight
fabrics. It is a glossy cotton thread.

2. Synthetic thread – is stronger than the cotton thread. It is used in sewing knitted, stretchable
and man- made fabrics. This thread requires machine adjustments and sharp needles for best
results.

3. Silk thread – is durable and elastic and is used on fabric made animal fibers.

Working Table – is a spacious table essential in laying out patterns on fabric. The ideal size of
table is 2-1/2 by 4 feet

PRESSING EQUIPMENT

Pressing is
done on the seam and darts to lay flat the joint pieces.
 Electric Iron – is used in straightening wrinkled and finished garment for a
net appearance.

Ironing Board – is padded, smooth and adjustable in height. Keep

the cover clean and smooth for ready used.

Bowls and sponges – are used to dampen fabric for easy ironing.

Starch Sprayer – is preferred for easy ironing of washable fabrics.

DRESS-FORM Is an indispensable sewing equipment in garment

constructions, it duplicates the figure and allows one to fit the
garment for accuracy and good workmanship?
Self check 1.1

Direction : Classify and identify the list of sewing tools below.

Scissor Tape measure Ruler

Tailors chalk Pinking shears Seam ripper
L-square hip curve pencil
Tracing wheel yardstick French curve
Thread clippers wax chalk buttonhole scissor
Ruler thimble pincushion
Embroidery scissor thread clipper Dressmakers carbon paper

Cutting Tools Marking Tools Pinning and Sewing Measuring Tools

tools

Activity 1.2
Direction: Draw the following tools in your drawing book.
 1. Measuring Tools
2. Marking Tools
3. Cutting tools
4. Drafting Tools
5. Pinning and Sewing Tools

Scoring Rubrics

Points Criteria

10 All tools were properly drawn and labeled correctly.

8 Almost all tools were properly drawn and labeled correctly.
6 Some of the items were properly drawn and labeled correctly.
4 Most of the items were improperly drawn and labeled correctly.

Activity 1.3
After learning the tools and equipment in sewing, produce a sewing kit with the following:

Create a Sewing Kit

A. Measuring Tools
French curve
Ruler
Hip curve
Tape measure
Meter stick
B. Cutting Tools
Dressmakers Scissor
Trimming scissor
Seam ripper
C. Marking Tools
Pencil with eraser
Tailors chalk
Tracing wheel
 Tracing paper
D. Drafting Tools
Pattern paper
Measuring Tools
E. Pinning and sewing Tools
Weights
Pins
Thimble
Hand needle
Pincushion
Thread

Scoring Rubric

Points Criteria

10 18-20 tools inside the sewing kit

8 15-17 tools inside the sewing kit
6 10-14 tools inside the sewing kit
4 5-9 tools inside the sewing kit
2 1-4 tools inside the sewing kit

LET’S START

LO2

Operating, Caring and identifying its parts of

sewing machine

Let us determine how much you already know in operating and

identifying parts of sewing machine

Pretest LO2
Direction: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write in your notebook.
1. The rough surface that pushes the work along, when sewing is being done.
a. needle bar b. threadle
c. feed dog d. needle plate
2. The long bar in which the needle is attach.
a. needle bar b. threadle
c. feed dog d. needle plate
3. Hold the cloth in place while sewing is done.
a. needle bar b. thread take up lever
c. presser foot d. tension
4. The shank of the needle is fasten.
a. needle clamp b. needle shunk
c. shuttle race d. stitch regulator
5. Container where the bobbin is place.
a. bobbin winder b. bobbin case
b. presser bar lifter d. pitman rod
6. It is also called small machine. It finishes the raw edge in constructing dresses.
a. high-speed lockstitch sewing machine b. lockstitch sewing machine
c. over edging sewing machine d. double needle machine.
7. This is usually used in home and sometimes in school also called Domestic Sewing Machine.
a. Hi-speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine b. Double Needle Sewing Machine
c. Lockstitch sewing machine d. Bartacking Machine
8. It is used in making buttonholes in the garments.
a. Button Attachment Machine b. Button Holer Machine
c. Over Edging Machine d. Embroidery Machine

9. This is used to reinforce the opening and closing of pocket.

a. Hi-speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine b. Double Needle Sewing Machine
c. Lockstitch sewing machine d. Bar tacking Machine
10. This is used in construction of different kinds of clothing especially for the inseam, outseam and side seam.
a. Hi-speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine b. Double Needle Sewing Machine
c. Lockstitch sewing machine d. Bar tacking Machine
 TYPES of SEWING MACHINE

Domestic Sewing Machine. This is run by foot and may also be converted to electric power
machine. This is usually used in home and school and also called DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINE.

Hi-speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine – This is sometimes called Straight Stitching Machine or
Industrial Sewing Machine. It has automatic lubrication and is used by tailors and dressmakers.

Over Edging Machine – other companies call it small machine. It finishes the raw edges
of the fabric.
Embroidery Machine – This is used in making
fancy stitches and in making different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabric for Barong
Tagalog, pillow cases, linen and other novelty items.

Button Holer Machine - This is used in making button holes on garments.

Button Attachment Machine – This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.

Double Needle Machine – This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing
especially for the inseam, out seam and side seam.
Bar tacking-Machine – This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of packet.

TWO MAJOR PARTS of LOCK STITCH SEWING

MACHINE

The two major parts of lock stitch sewing machine are the upper and the lower parts.

The Upper Parts

Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.

Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle,
Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is mounted,
and the shuttle and the lower thread are placed

The head

Arm

Bed
 Parts of Sewing Machine in the Arm

Spool Pin - is the thread holder

Thread Guide - keeps the thread in position.
Thread Take up Lever - releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin thread.
Presser Bar Lifter - moves the presser foot.
Tension controls - the looseness and tightness of stitch.
Needle Bar - holds the needle in place.
Needle Clamp - holds and tightens the needle.
Presser Foot - holds the fabric in place while sewing.
Needle - is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing
Bobbin Winder - controls the bobbin while winding the thread.
Stitch Regulator - checks the length of stitches.
Balance Wheel - sets the mechanism in motion.
Belt - connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
Stop Motion Screw - hinders moving when loosened and start

Parts of the Sewing

Machine Under the Bed
Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing.
Throat Plate windows of the feed dog and where the bobbin thread comes out
Slide Plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle and bobbin case
Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.
Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.

Bobbin Case Bobbin

Throat Plate
 Needle bar Needle
Presser foot bar Slide Plate
Needle Clam Feed Dog
Presser foot

THE LOWER PARTS OF SEWING MACHINE

The lower parts of sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand. The cabinet has drawers and
screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head.

Band Wheel - leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
Band Wheel Crank- Crank moves the band wheel.
Pit Man Rod - holds the treadle to the bank wheel crank.
Belt Guide - holds the belt to its place.

Belt Shifter - removes the belt from the wheel.

Dress Guard - protects the dress from wheel.

Treadle - is where the feet are stationed to drive the bank wheel through the pitman rod.
Legs - support the cabinet of the machine.
Cabinet - holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the hinges.

Think and Reflect

How much have you learned

Direction: Read each item carefully and choose the letter of the best answer. Write your
answer on your quiz book.

1.A machine that run by your foot and is usually called Domestic sewing machine
a. high speed over edger machine c. lockstitch machine
b. hemmer machine d. bar tacking machine
2.The complete sewing machine without the cabinet or stand.
a. bed c. head
b. arm d. needle
3. The part of sewing machine that hold and tighten the needle
a. needle bar c. spool pin
b. needle clamp d. needle
4. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets
a. embroidery machine c. bar tacking machine
b. lockstitch sewing machine d. gartering machine
5. Where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through the pitman rod.
a. pitman rod c. Band wheel
b. treadle d. Dress guard

6. . The rough surface that pushes the work along, when sewing is being done.
a. needle bar c. treadle
b. feed dog d. needle plate
7.The long bar in which the needle is attach.
 a. needle bar c. treadle
b. feed dog d. needle plate
8.The part of sewing machine that controls the looseness and tightness of the stitches.
a. thread guide c. upper tension
b. stitch regulator d. presser foot
9.The part of sewing machine that releases the thread and interlock with the bobbin thread.
a. thread takes up lever c. needle bar
b. presser bar lifter d. bobbin case
10. The mechanism that set the sewing machine in motion
a. balance wheel c. bed
b. belt d. presser foot

Let’s Do It

Direction: Identify the parts of Hi-speed sewing machine.Write your answer in your quiz note
book.
 How to
operate
Sewing
machine
1. Thread the sewing machine by simply putting the thread into the spool pin then bring to thread guide down
to thread tension then another thread guide down to needle.
2.Wind the bobbin by simply putting to bobbin winder.
Thread the bobbin .Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand with thread on top
drawing from right to left. With the left hand hold the bobbin case,the slot in the edge being at the top and
place the bobbin into the bobbin case. Then pull the thread into the slot and back under the tension spring.
3. Raise the presser foot and feed the garments then put down the presser foot to hold the garment.

4. Put your right foot on the treadle and On the power in the right side.
5. Start to push your feet down the treadle to be able the machine to run.
6. Continue pushing the treadle until you learn to stop and start sewing for you to master in controlling the
machine.

Proper care of sewing machine

1. Oil the machine daily if it is used continuously. This will keep the machine running smoothly and quietly.
2. Remove the dust and dirt before oiling the machine.
3. Do not run the machine when both bobbin case and needle are threaded unless there is material under the
presser foot.
4. Do not run the machine with the presser foot resting on the fed dog. Unless there is material under the
presser foot.
5. Do not try to help the machine by pulling the fabric, it will bend the needle. The machine feed the work
without assistance.
6. The bed slide must be kept closed when the machine is being operated.
7. Avoid sewing heavy materials with fine needles.
8. If the machine runs hard after long standing idle for sometimes used, a little kerosene in the oiling places, run
the machine rapidly then wipe and clean the oil.
9. The machine must be removed carefully over the floor, never drag it around.
10. When not in used , sewing machine must be covered to protect from dust and dirt
Health Practice While Sewing
1. Light should come from the left. Do not sew when light is very bright and dim.
2. Sit erect on the chair. Your eyes should be directly line with the presser foot.
3. Use your right feet when treadling.
4. Use scissor when cutting thread. Do not bite the thread.
5. Use thimble when sewing by hand.
6. Use pin cushion for pins and needle.
7. Keep the head and shoulder erect.
8. Hold your work so that you do not have to stop or bend.

LET’S START

LO 3

Correcting the common causes of sewing machine

Common Causes of Machine Trouble

A. Heavy rotation
Causes:
1. Lack of oil
2. Dust and dirt
3. Belt or cord is to tight
4. Improper oiling
 5. Dust and dirt around the bearing
6. Tight screw
7. Improper winding of the thread

Remedy:
1. Give oil to the machine
2. Dismantle and clean the shuttle and bobbin case
3. Change the belt
4. Clean with kerosene and oil
5. Wipe or brush before oiling. Dust absorb oil.
B. Noisy
Causes:
1. Lack of oil.
2. Loose of screw.
3. Dust caught in shuttle
Remedy:
1. Give oil
2. Loose screw must be tighter.
3. Clean by dismantling and oiling.
C. Needle Breaking
Causes:
1. Needle attached to the wrong side.
2. Needle bent or Blunt
3. Poor quality of needle
4. Puling the material while stitching

5. Bobbin case turns

6. Needle strikes to the throat plate or presser foot.
7. Material is too thick or too hard.
Remedy:
1. Set the needle correctly
2. Replace with good quality of needle
 3. Let the feed dog move by itself
4. Check the catch spring
5. Center the presser foot and tighten the feed dog.
6. Minimize thickness. Do not use fine needle in sewing heavy materials.
D. Skipping stitches
Causes:
1. Needle attaché in the wrong side.
2. Needle is blunt or bent.
3. Insufficient pressure by the presser foot.
4. Poor quality of thread.
5. Needle is too low or too short.
6. When the end of the hook is dull.
Remedy:
1. Attach at the correct side. Fallow the arrow head indicated in the throat plate.
2. Change the needle.
3. Use quality of thread .
4. Reset the needle higher.
5. Check the pressure screw.
6. Change the hook.
E. Irregular Stitches
Causes:
1. Improper tension
2. Improper threading
3. Needle too long
4. Improper placement of needle

5. Poor quality of needle

6. Needle and thread do not match each other.
Remedy:
1. Adjust the upper thread tension by regulating the knob or the under the thread tension by regulating
the screw on the bobbin case so that the two threads link at the needle of the materials.
2. Adjust presser foot according to the fabric if it is too thin apply loose pressure and if it is thick apply
stronger pressure.
F. Seam Wrinkle
Causes:
1. Too strong tension of thread.
2. Size of the needle and thread are not matching.
3. Pressure of the presser foot is too strong or too weak.
4. The feed dog adjustment is too high.
Remedy:
1. Both tension should be balance.
2. Use proper size of needle and thread.
3. Apply a little pressure of the presser foot as possible.
4. Adjust the height of the feed dog by regulating the feed throw knob.
G. Stitch Looping
Causes:
1. Unbalance tension.
2. Poor quality of needle.
3. Thread take up lever spring is crocked or broken.
4. Needle too long
5. Improper threading
Remedy:
1. Adjust the tension
2. Used good quality of thread or change the tension spring.
3. Change the needle.
4. Thread the machine properly.
H. Upper Thread Breaking
Causes:

1. Wrong threading
2. Poor quality of needle
3. Poor quality of thread
4. Thread and needle are not matching
5. Upper tension is too tight
6. Damage hole in the throat plate
 7. Damage hole in the shuttle hook
Remedy:
1. Use correct threading
2. Replace with a new needle
3. Use better quality of thread
4. Use proper size of thread and needle
5. Adjust the thread tension
6. Change the throat plate
7. Change the shuttle hook
I. Lower Thread Breaking
Causes:
1. Damage hole in the throat plate
2. Damage hole in the shuttle hook
3. Spring in the bobbin case is too tight.
4. Improper winding of bobbin.
5. Bent needle
Remedy:
1. Change the throat plate.
2 Change the spring
3. Wind the bobbin evenly.
4. Change the needle.
5. Use quality of thread.
6. Clean the bobbin case.
7. Remove some threads from the bobbin.

THE SEVEN SEWING MACHINE FUNDAMENTAL STITCHES

1. Straight stitch

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2. Back stitch
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4. Scallop stitch

5. Slight curve

6. Turned corner stitch

7. Straight diagonal stitch

MODULE II

Let’sMEASUREMENT
Do It

The body measurements are vertical, horizontal and circumferential. There are two
system used: the metric system where in centimeter is the basic unit and
English system where in inches which guide for the students to ensure accuracy
in the measurement of individuals.
AN INCH

1/8

2/8 ,1/4

3/8
4/8, ½
5/8
6/8, ¾
7/8

1 inch

1. The line is 1/8

2. The line is ¼ 0r 2/8
3. The line is 3/8
4. The line is 4/8 or ½
 5. The line is 5/8
6. The line is6/8 or ¾
7. The line is 7/8
8. The line is 1 inch

Example:
A waist measurement is 24 and 5 lines of an inch. It is read as 24 and5/8 inchesA hip
measurement is 36 and 3 lines. It is read as 36 and 3/8 inches

Or ½
cm.

8
 9

10mm.or 1CENTIMETER

The first line is 1 millimeter

The second line is 2 millimeter
The third line is 3 millimeter
The fourth line is 4 millimeter
The fifth line is 5 millimeter
The sixth line is 6 millimeter
The seventh line is 7 millimeter
The eight line is 8 millimeter
The ninth line is 9 millimeter
The tenth line is 10 millimeter
Example:
A waist measures 61 centimeters and 3 millimeters will be 61.3 centimeters
A bust measures 82 centimeter and 5 millimeters will be 82.5 centimeters

Body measurements are taken in.

1. Vertical measurements
2. Horizontal measurements
3. Circumferential measurements

1. VERTICAL MEASUREMENT- is taken from the top of the body figure to its base

1. Back width (bw) – taken from the nape down the waist of the back bodice.
2. Front figure (Ff) – taken from the junction of your neck and shoulder, passing over
the bust down to the waist
3. Bust height (Bh) – taken from the neck point down to the highest point of the bust.
4. Blouse length (Bl) – taken from the junction of your shoulder and neck down to the
desired length.
5. Sleeve length (Sl) – taken from the shoulder point down to the desired length of the
arm.
6. Skirt length (Sl) – taken from the waist down to the desired length.
 2. HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENT

1. Shoulder (S) – taken from the shoulder point across the back to the other shoulder
point.
2. Front chest (Fc) – taken from the armpit to the other armpit
3. Bust distance ( Bd) – taken from nipple to nipple
4. Back width (Bw) – taken beside the armpit to the other armpit at the back

3. CIRCUMFERENTIAL MEASUREMENT

1. Bust (B) – around the fullest part of the bust

2. Waist (W) – taken around the smallest part of the torso, or the last part of your ribs
3. Hips (H) 1st hip - taken ten (10) centimeters or four (4) inches from the waist. Place
the tape measure around the 1st hip.
4. Second hip (h2) – taken around the fullest part of the hips
5. Armhole – taken around the armhole
6. Armgirth – taken around the arm

SKIRT MEASUREMENT

1. Waistline - taken around the smallest part of torso.

2. 1st hip – taken 4 inches down from the waist.
3. 2nd hip – taken 8 inches down from the wait.
4. Skirt Length- from waist down to desired length.

BODY MEASUREMENT OF BLOUSE

Back View Front View

1. Shoulder 1. Front Chest
2. Back width 2. Front Figure
3. Bust Circumference 3. Bust Distance
 4. Waist Line 4. Bust height
5. 1st Hip 5. Blouse Length
6. 2nd Hip 6.neck depth
7. Back figure 7. Arm hole, Arm length,
Arm girth
8.neck circumference

1. Length of blouse – taken from the nape down to the desired length.
2. Shoulder – taken from the shoulder across the back to the other shoulder point.
3. Bust – taken around the fullest part of the bust and higher at the back.
4. Waist– taken around the waistline
5. Hipline – taken around the buttocks.HIP1- is taken 4 inches down the waist then
place the tape around.HIP2- taken 7 inches down the waist around the fullest part of
buttocks.
6. Neck circumference– taken around the base of the neck plus ½ inch.
7. Sleeve length – taken from the shoulder point down to the desired length.
8. Sleeve girth – taken around the arm plus 1 or 2 inches allowance.
9. Neck depth_-taken from the junction of neck and shoulder down to desired length
of clevage
10.Chest front –

11. Back width- taken from

12. bust distance- from nipple to nipple

13. armhole- taken around the armhole.

14. bust height- taken from shoulder down to nipple.

15. front figure- taken from shoulder down to waist.

PATTERN- pattern is device used by dressmakers as a guide when cutting an article or

garment.
A garment is sewn based on a pattern. Producing a good foundation pattern dep ends upon the
accuracy of taking body measurement.
Three ways of making a pattern
 1. Foundation pattern is made from the individual measurement. It is composed of five pants
and has no seam allowance.

1. Front bodice 4. Front skirt

2. Back bodice 5. Sleeve
3. Back skirt

2. DRAPE PATTERN – Is the placing of fabric over the models body on mannequin. This is the
most expensive pattern become it utilizes more fabric. Also known as the pattern that creates
the original effect.
3. COMMERCIAL PATTERN – are sold in the department stores. They have a package of
direction and contain the actual pattern pieces. That is use to cut any fabric. They include
on sheet of instructions.

KINDS OF PATTERN

1. BLOCK PATTERN - Also called foundation pattern it is made by drafting the

actual measurement of the individual.
2. CONSTRUCTION PATTERN – the intended design is drawn in the pattern. Cut
the lines and put numbers to determine the place.
3. FINAL PATTERN – The cut pieces are now arrange so as to add case for the
garters or puff sleeve. This arrangements has ½ allowance in between the parts.
The button of the sleeve the parts are placed together.

SEEM ALLOWANCE:
1. On the sleeve cap is 1 inch
2. Upon reaching no. 5 and 6, add only ½
3. Under arm and girth is ½

SUMMARY

1.The unit of measurement use are CENTIMETERS and INCHES. An inch has eight equal
parts 1/8, 2 or ¼ , 3/8, 4/8 or ½, 5/8, 6/8 or ¾, 7/8, 8 or 1 inch. While the centimeter has 10
equal lines which are millimeters.
2.Body measurement are taken in
1. Vertical measurement
 2. Horizontal measurement
3. Circumferential measurement
3. The blouse measurement is taken horizontally are the: shoulder, back chest, front chest and
bust distance. Vertical measurements are: back figure, front figure, bust height and
blouse length. Circumferential are the: bust, waistlines, 1st hip, 2nd hip, armhole and armpit
4. The polo shirt has the following measurement shoulder, bust, waist, hipline for neck, collar,
sleeve length, sleeve girth, armhole and length of polo.
5. The short pants have the following measurements: crotch, length of short, waist, 1st hip, 2nd
hip and leg hole.
6. Foundation pattern is sometimes called the master pattern or block pattern. The
measurement is taken from the individual measurement. The foundation pattern has five parts:
the front and back bodice, front and back skirt and sleeve.
7. There are three types of patterns:
1. Block pattern
2. Construction pattern
3. Final pattern
8. There are three ways of making pattern:
1. Foundation pattern
2. Drape pattern
3. Commercial pattern
9. Horizontal measurement is divided into two.
10. Bust, waist, hips, are divided into four

HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?

1. What is ¼ of 34 inches? How about ¼ of 39”

2. What is ¼ 80 of centimeters? How about ¼ of 86 centimeters?
3. How many measurements do the sleeve of blazers have?
4. Draw the front bodies of blouse
5. Draw the back bodice of blouse
6. How any division has the hip measurement
7. How many division has the front chest

EXERCISE:
Choose the correct answer of the question asked. Encircle the letter only.
1. The first line of an inch is
 a. 3/8 c. 1/8
b. ¼ d. 1/9
2. The body measurement from to p going down
a. Diagonal c. vertical
b. Horizontal d. circumferential
3. The body measurement from left to right
a. Horizontal c. vertical
b. Circumferential d. diagonal
4. The body measurement which ------ around the body
a. Vertical c. horizontal
b. Diagonal d. circumferential
5. The following are the skirt measurement except.
a. Waist c. bust
b. Hip d. skirt length
6. Vertical measurement are the following except
a. Back figure c. ------
b. Blouse length d. bust distance
7. It is also called black pattern
a. Commercial pattern
b. Foundation pattern
c. Construction pattern
d. Final pattern
8. This pattern has five parts
a. Commercial pattern
b. Foundation pattern
c. Construction pattern
d. Final pattern
9. There are three ways of making pattern except
a. Construction pattern
b. Drape pattern
c. Foundation pattern
d. Commercial pattern
10. There three types of making pattern except
a. Final pattern
b. Drape pattern
c. Block pattern
d. Construction pattern
 DRAFTING, BLOCKING OF PATTERNS and ASSEMBLING PATTERNS

The chapter presents a step by step procedure of clothing construction. This also
provide pointers for projects planning that will help the students to become creative
and artistic in designing the fabric prints. This involved drafting and blocking of
pattern, that serves as guide in drafting pattern. This include assembling of the
different parts of the blouse.

OBJECTIVES:
1. Discuss how to draft and block pattern.
2. Illustrate tools for drafting pattern
3. Discuss the measurement materials needed procedures then draft the following
parts of pattern. A. front bodice b. back bodice c. sleeve of blouse d. front skirt
4. Enumerate the steps in assembling blouse with round neckline
5.
6. Follow the steps in marking and making button holes of the blouse
7. Draft and assemble your blouse
8. Apply finishing finches

MEASURING AND PATTERN DRAFTING

1. Get the measurement of different person

2. Construct a pattern for each measurement
3. Compare the pattern drafted
4. Continue drafting pattern until you have master the steps
5. Never attempt to end the fabric until you have practice making patterns with
different measurements

THING TO REMEMBER IN DRAFTING PATTERN

1. In drafting the pattern; always starts drawing a construction line as you starting line
2. Always remember the basic lines which is 3,5 and 8 inches from top of the line. Where 3
inches from top down as your front neck hole, 5 inches is your chest and 8 inches as your
arm hole or ¼ of bust measurement
3. Be careful in making the shapes of the neck, the sleeve cap, the arm hole and waist line
and the back crotch to be sure of a good fitting.
4. Be accurate in translating the actual body measurement in pattern making

TOOLS IN DRAFTING PATTERN

L-square
Hip curve
Ruler
Tape measure
French curve

Measurement needed Division

1. Shoulder ½
2. Chest front and back ½
3. Bust ¼
4. Waistline ¼
5. Bust height as is
6. Bust distance ½
7. Figure front and back as is
8. Blouse length
9. Arm hole ½
10. Arm girth ½
11. Sleeve length as is

MATERIAL NEEDED
1. Pattern paper
2. Tape measure
3. L-square or ruler
4. French curve and hip curve
5. Pencil and eraser
6. scissor