How to build an AK type rifle

Welcome to the hobby of home building firearms.

You are about to embark on a challenge of skill,
patience and artistry. When you have finished your
build you will have the knowledge and pride that
comes from completing a demanding job with your
own hands. Here are three of the many home builds
I have done:
Romanian MD-63 underfolder
7.62x39 Romanian AKM
7.62x39

Polish Tantal 5.45x39

 In the past 15 years a number of different firearm
"kits" have come onto the market. These are military
rifles that have been "de milled" to government
specifications for civilian ownership. These "kits"
have included the FN FAL series, CETME, HK series
and the AK series. Of all of these the AK series is
unique in that you, the home builder, can actually
make your own receiver without the need for a full
machine shop.
The AK-47 was designed by Mikhail Kalashnikov
during a sick leave from fighting in WW 2. It was
adopted by the Red Army in 1949 and has been in
service in many different forms ever since. It has
been produced in dozens of countries and is
available in a variety of configurations. The original
round was the 7.62x39 but has been updated to the
5.45x39 for the AK-74.
This tutorial is presented in sections for ease of use
and understanding. I will cover:
Basic tools you will need
AK series specific tools
Kit selection and 922(r) compliance
Choosing a receiver
Preparing the parts kit
Preparing the receiver
Building the receiver (Rivet)
 Building the receiver (Screw)
Putting a finish on the parts
Final assembly of the rifle
Please take some time to scan through this tutorial
to familiarize yourself with the process and terms
used.
Getting started
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Tools you will need

This list will show the minimum tool selection I
believe is necessary to properly complete an AK
series rifle build. You may already have some of
these tools and I will show you how to make some
that are specific to the AK rifle build.
Hand tools
Minimum 5" bench vise
2lb sledge hammer
Set of screw drivers
Set of punches
Several 3" to 5" "C" clamps
8" vise grip pliers
Round, flat and square files
Power tools
Drill press with vise
Dremel tool
Angle grinder
Jig saw with metal blades
110 volt spot welder or MIG/TIG welder (Optional)
The listed tools are used for all types of builds. There
are some additional tools that are specific to rivet
and screw builds.
AK series specific tools
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 AK series specific tools
Rivet builds
To do a rivet build you will need several tools and
jigs to set the rivets. These tools can either be hand
set tools or press set tools. You will need the
following:
Short rivet tool
Long rivet tool
trigger guard rivet jig
Press set tools
If you have access to or are buying a shop press
there are jigs and tools you can buy or make for
setting the rivets. The short rivet tool can be a
"Plinker" style jig or a set of modified bolt cutters. If
you go with the "Plinker" style jig from AK-Builder it
will also do the long rivets. These jigs are available
from several suppliers:
http://www.ak-builder.com/ak/index.php They have
the "Plinker" style jig and the trigger guard jig.
http://dpharms.com/ They have the trigger guard
jig.
http://gunthings.com/ They have the long rivet jig.
These are just the suppliers I have done business
with and there are many others who supply these
items. You can also check the chat boards for tools
for sale.
Hand set tools
To set the rivets by hand you will still need the tools
and jigs but you will be able to make them yourself.
The short rivets can be set using a modified bolt
cutter. I prefer the 36" cutters since they have more
metal to work with and they seem to hold up better.
You can make these yourself using the angle grinder
for around $20.00. They are also available in the
Market section of most AK chat boards. This is what
it looks like:

Remove the lower jaw from the cutter and lock it in

the bench vise. Use the angle grinder to shape the
jaw so the it will fit into the front of the trunnion all
the way back to the rear rivet location. Go slowly
with the grinding process. You do not want to
change the heat treating on the jaw. Take a little off
and let cool down and then take some more off. You
want to end up with a 1/4" square at the end for
setting the rivet. You will also need to make a
bucking bar to protect the rivet head and insure that
the rivet sets tight.

I made this from a piece of 1/4" scrap. You can

make the rivet head detent with the Dremel or a
5/16" ball end mill.
To set the long rivets I modified a second set of 36"
 bolt cutters.

I did this modification using a 14" chop saw. Once I

had them formed I made a rivet head detent in one
jaw to form the new rivet head as it was set. I will
have more details on how these are used in the
"Building the receiver" section.
You can also set the long rivets by hand using a
bucking plate, a hand punch and a hammer.

Using a piece of 1/4" flat stock you will locate and

 mark where the rear rivets go. Make a detent for
each rivet head with the Dremel or a 5/16" ball end
mill.

Using a piece of 3/8" round bar stock make a detent

in one end to form the new rivet head. Clamp the
receiver with the trunnion and rivets in place to your
bench and use the punch and hammer to set the
rivet and form the head. You can use this same
process for the center support rivet by reversing the
punch and making a flat head for the selector to
move over.You can also use the long rivet jig from
http://gunthings.com/ in this same fashion.
Next up is the trigger guard rivet jig. This jig is used
as the bucking bar for riveting the trigger guard on
the receiver. Start with the 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 6" piece
of steel. Mark a center line length wise and drill a
.375" hole 1.750" in from each end. Using the jig
 saw with the metal cutting blade make two cuts
length wise from hole to hole. You will now have a
slot 3" long and approximately .375" wide.

You will now need to finish the slot with files or the
Dremel. Square the ends and make the slot only as
wide as is needed for a tight fit. The front of the
trigger guard is wider than the rest and will also
need slight grooves for the mag release rivet to slide
through. You can now make the rivet head detents
using the Dremel or the 5/16" ball end mill. You can
see how the trigger guard will sit in the jig. I will
have more details on how these are used in the
"Building the receiver" section.
 Flat bending jig
If you are going to use a bendable flat you will need
a bending jig. This is normally used with a shop
press but I have seen them used with a hydraulic
jack and solid frame. There are several suppliers for
the bending jigs:
http://www.ak-builder.com/ak/index.php They have
several options for this jig.
http://dpharms.com/ They offer the basic bending
jig.
Again, these are only the suppliers I have used.
These items are available form other sources or you
can check the Market section on the chat boards for
used ones for sale. You can also make your own
using these plans:
http://www.quarterbore.com/images/555thjig_print.pdf
Spot welder modification
 If you opt to use a spot welder to attach the lower
rails you will need to modify the lower tong to fit into
the receiver. This can be done with the angle grinder
and hammer. You will also need to buy a tap and
drill bit to reinstall the tip. Start by removing the
lower tong and using the anvil on the bench vise
flatten it out to a straight rod.Measure the tong so
that it will be the same length as the upper tong
when reinstalled. Using the angle grinder flatten out
one end as shown and drill and tap it for the
tip.Reinstall the tip and shape it as shown in the
images.

Barrel press
This is an option for reinstalling the barrel if you do
not have a shop press. It is very simple to make and
works like a charm.All you will need is a 36" piece of
1/4" thread rod, a piece of 1/2" key stock, a 1/4"
nut, some thin wall aluminum tubing and a 1/4"
tension nut. I bought all of this at ACE hardware.
You will need to make the back locking bar from the
1/2" key stock with the grinder or Dremel. It then
needs a 1/4-20 hole drilled and tapped for the draw
rod.
Screw builds
To do a screw build you will need the following tools:
Tap Handle
1/4-20 taper tap
#7 drill bit
10-32 taper tap
#21 drill bits
8-32 taper tap
#29 drill bits
6-32 taper tap
#36 drill bit
Cutting oil
Allen wrenches to fit each screw size
I will have more details on how these are used in the
"Building the receiver" and assembly sections.
Kit selection and 922(r) compliance
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Choosing a receiver
You have three basic choices in receivers:
100% finished receiver

These are just what the name implies, 100%

finished ready to fit and build. They are available for
most common AK rifles and range in price from
$50.00 to $100.00 plus. The advantages to this
receiver are that you do not have to do any of the
build steps. All of the holes and openings are done
and the lower rails and center support are installed.
In most cases the receiver has been fully heat
treated. The down side is the cost. If you are on a
budget you can expect to spend an additional $40.00
plus for delivery and FFL transfer. You will want to
check the chat boards for reviews of the different
100% receivers to see what issues that other
builders may have had.
80% receiver blank
 The name is a little misleading. This is basically a
piece of 4130 sheet steel bent into the shape of an
AK receiver and will usually come with a bondable
template to do the finishing. Again, these are
available from many sources for around $25.00 to
$35.00 plus shipping. The advantages to this type of
receiver are that you can have it delivered directly to
your home since it is not considered a firearm and
the cost. The downside is that you will need a little
skill and know-how to finish it as well as some extra
tools. It is best to order these from a supplier that
can also include the lower rails.
Bendable flat

That is just what this is, a flat piece of 4130 sheet

steel that has had the holes and openings laser cut
and the dimples stamped in. Again they can be
purchased from many sources for $13.00 on up and
 usually come with the lower rails. The advantages
are that all of the "Hard" work has been done and
the cost. The downside is that you will need access
to a bending jig and press to properly form the
receiver. Bending jigs are available for around
$150.00 on up or can be rented through some chat
boards. If you plan to make several receivers of this
type it may be cost effective to buy a bending jig
and then sell it once your finished. You can usually
recoup most of your investment this way.
Last but not least you will need rivets or screws and
a center support to do the assembly. For a rivet
build you can order a rivet set from
http://www.ak-builder.com/ak/index.php or check
the chat boards for group buys or individuals selling
the sets. You will also need a retainer for the FCG
pins. You can use the Shepard's hook wire that came
with the kit, one of the retainer plates or a pair of
3/16" "E" clips. For a screw build you will need:
6 10-32 x 1/4" button head cap screws
4 1/4-20 x 3/8" button head cap screws
7 8-32 3/8" button head cap screws
5 8-32 hex nuts
8 6-32 1/4" button head cap screws
2" of 1/4" thick wall OD tubing or 1/4" solid rod for
the center support
These can be bought from most hardware stores.
Preparing the parts kit
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Preparing the parts kit

When you receive your parts kit it will look
something like this:
 Removing the furniture
It will be necessary to remove the receiver stubs and
old rivets as well as press the barrel out. You will
want to start by removing the furniture. On the right
side of the rear sight block is a lever that needs to
be rotated back and up to release the gas tube.
Once it is in the open position you can lift the gas
tube up and back to remove it.
 Next you will remove the handguard. At the front of
the handguard is the retainer. There is a lever on the
right inside that needs to be rotated forward 180
degrees. Once this is done you can move the
retainer forward and pull the handguard down from
the front and off.

Next you will remove the buttstock from the rear

trunnion. Start by removing the 2 screws from the
top. Once they are out lock the trunnion in the bench
 vise and use a ram to tap the buttstock out.

Removing the barrel pin

The next step is to remove the barrel pin. In most
cases this can be done by locking the front trunnion
in the vise and using a punch to tap it out. You can
also use a shop press and barrel pin punch adapter.
Hammer and punch
You want to start with a punch that is larger than
the pin to get it to move. It will require several solid
blows with the hammer to do this. It is best to hold
the punch with the vise grips to avoid damage to
your hand. Once the pin has started to move you will
finish tapping it out with a .250" punch.
 Shop press
Install the pin punch adapter to the ram on the
press. Place the trunnion on a piece of hard wood
(Oak works well) with a 3/8" hole through it. Center
the pin over the hole and and start pressing it out
with the short pin. Once it starts to move use the
longer pin to finish pressing it out.
 Pressing out the barrel
Next you will press the barrel out of the front
trunnion. There are several ways to do this
depending on what tools you have access to:
Gear puller
You can buy a gear puller from most auto parts
stores for less that $20. You may need to modify the
front arms to fit over the trunnion. Once the
trunnion is located in the puller lock it in the vise. I
use the "C" clamp to keep the puller stable. Using a
piece of 5/8" copper or brass rod as a buffer press
the barrel out with a ratchet wrench.
 Shop press
Place supports on either side of the front trunnion.
Using a soft metal (Copper or brass) rod about 5/8"
diameter or a steel rod with pennies or nickels as a
buffer press the barrel out.

Removing the old receiver stubs and rivets

Now you will need to remove the receive stubs from
the trunnions. Lock each trunnion in turn into the
vise and using the angle grinder remove the rivet
heads. Do this to both sides of the trunnions. With
the heads removed you can peel off the receiver
stubs with the vise grips.
Rear trunnion
 Front trunnion

To remove the rivets from the front trunnion set it

on it's side on the anvil of the bench vise and using a
small punch knock the rivets out.
To remove the rivets from the rear trunnion you will
need to drill them through. First you will want to
center punch the rivets on one side to help the drill
bit start. Lock the rear trunnion in the vise on your
drill press, being sure that it is level, and drill all the
way through the rivet with a .120" bit. Go very
slowly, 1/4" at a time and use a lot of cutting oil.

To remove the rivets from the trunnion support it on

the jaws of the bench vise and using 1/8" punch
 drive the rivets out.

To remove the rivets from the trigger guard you will

start by locking it into the bench vise. Use the angle
grinder to remove the rivet backs from the inside. Be
sure not to damage the selector stop on the spacer
plate. Once the rivets have been ground down use
the vise grips to pull off the old receiver section.
Next lock the trigger guard into the drill vise and drill
through with the .120" bit. Once they have been
drilled they can be knocked out.

Removing the gas piston

If you are going to use a US made gas piston you
will need to remove the original one. In most cases
they are held in place by a rivet. You can locate the
rivet on either side of the bolt carrier about 1/2"
back from the front. It may be necessary to use
 sandpaper to see the rivet outline. Place the bolt
carrier on it's side on the slightly open jaws of the
bench vise and use a center punch to start the rivet
out. Use the vise grips to finish the removal. Once
the rivet is out you can unscrew the piston from the
carrier.
 The de mill is now complete and you should
have this:

Preparing the receiver

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Preparing the receiver

If you have opted for a 100% complete receiver
select either RIVET or SCREW build.
Bent blank with template
Whether your blank came with the template bonded
on or you did it yourself you will want to measure all
 of the hole placements to ensure accuracy.

The correct hole placement is very important and I

highly recommend that you check and remark any
holes that are not perfect. To measure the
placement go from the top of the rail to the center of
the hole being sure to add the thickness of the
receiver to the total. The correct measurements are
as follows:
Safety selector .550"
Trigger pin 1.380"
Hammer pin 1.100"
Center support .750"
If your receiver is .040" thick you would add that to
each measurement for the correct placement. Once
you have all of the holes center punched you can
drill them out. Drill the holes from each side, do not
try to drill through as this may cause misalignment.
Hole diameters:
Right side
Left side
Selector large .375"
.200"
Selector small .200"
None
Trigger .200"
.276"
Hammer .200"
.276"
Center support .200"
.200"
You will need to drill the holes and cut the openings.
To do this without damaging the blank you will need
a mandrel. Cut a piece of wood 1.25" wide and 2"
tall about 6" long. You will need to remove 1/2" wide
by 1/4" deep section from both sides of the mandrel
for proper fit.

Next insert the mandrel into the blank and use a

center punch to mark each hole to ensure that the
drill bit will not "Walk" off the mark. Drill the holes
from each side. Do not try to drill straight through.
The bit may "Wander" off center in the mandrel.

Once all of the holes are drilled you will need to cut
out the larger openings with the Dremel or a mill. Be
sure to make the cuts undersized and finish them
with a file to ensure proper fit.

When all of the holes and cutouts are finished

remove the template and you should have
something that looks like this:

Go down to heat treating

Bendable flat
The first step is to lock the flat into the alignment
bars of the jig. The flat will have two holes on the
center line at each end. These will line up with the
centering pins on the jig. The jig will also have a
cutout to fit the mag well detent.

Tighten the bolts in series from the center out to

ensure that the flat is held evenly. Use plenty of
grease on the sides that will go down the inside of
the frame. Place the flat on the bending frame with
the bolts down and press the assembly into the
frame. Use a 1" block between the jig and the press
ram.
Start pumping the press and the receiver will start to
form.
If you are using the jig from AK-Builder with the top
rail attachment follow the directions you received
with it. To form the top rails with all other jigs you
will place the full assembly on your work bench and
using a hammer start to tap the rails over. Do this
slowly. Tap them over the a little at a time for the
full length of the receiver.

Once you have them about 90% done use a piece of

square bar stock as an anvil to finish. If you do the
whole process with the hammer it will still work but
will not look as good.
Reverse the jig and press the form out. Wipe off the
excess grease.

Secure the receiver sides with a "C" clamp and

remove the bottom bar. You will want to check the
mag well edges and the left side trigger pin hole.
Due to how close they are to the bend line they do
not always set flat. A LIGHTtapping with the
hammer will finish the forming.
Remove the receiver from the jig taking out the side
screws. Lift out the center bar and then the side
plates.
You should now have something that looks like this:
 Heat treating
(If you are doing a screw build please refer to that
section for more information)
To ensure a long life and proper function you will
need to heat treat some spots on the receiver as
well as the ejector. This can be easily done with a
MAPP gas torch and a pail of water. BE VARY
CAREFUL DURING THIS PROCESS! You will want
to use gloves and probably move outside.
Heat treating the ejector
Holding the left lower rail in a pair of pliers heat
ejector area to 1500 degrees as shown (Glowing
yellow/orange) and then plunge it into the pail of
water. Using a fine grain sand paper polish the
treated area and re heat to 750 degrees as shown
(Dull blue/gray). Let it air cool.
 Heat treating the FCG holes
The FCG holes are the ones that the trigger and
hammer pins go through. Each hole needs to be
hardened and then annealed. To harden the holes
heat each one to 1500 degrees as shown (Glowing
yellow/orange) and then plunge it into the pail of
water.
 Do this with each of the four holes. Using a fine
grain sand paper polish the treated areas to bare
metal. Re heat all 4 holes to 750 degrees as shown
(Dull blue/gray) and let them air cool.
 Rivet build
Screw build
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Rivet build
It is best to do the build from the front back. This
will ensure proper fit and placement of the parts and
allow for adjustment of the mag well if needed.
Front trunnion
Insert the trunnion into the front of the receiver. It
may be necessary to trim the top rails to get a
proper fit. Once the trunnion is in place you will need
to check the rivet hole placement. The trunnion must
be flush with the front of the receiver.
 Depending on the receiver used the trunnion rivet
holes may need to be located and drilled. There are
several ways to do this. The first option is to use a
"Post-it" note. Place the note on one side of the
trunnion and use a marker to show the hole location.
Insert the trunnion into the receiver and lock it in
place with a "C" clamp and drill the rivet holes. You
can drill all the way through to do both side a the
same time.
You can also make a locator jig to find the holes.

You will want to set the mag well rivets first. These
are usually "Swell neck" type rivets. You can see the
bevel in the trunnion that needs to be recessed for
proper fit. You will need to use a taper punch to
make the detent in the receiver.
 Hand riveting
Insert the rivet into the receiver and through the
trunnion. Lock it in place using the bucking bar and a
"C" clamp.Set up the bolt cutter tool in the vise as
shown and move the receiver/trunnion assembly
over the jaw as shown. Apply pressure to the tool
handle and the rivet will start to set. Check to be
sure it crushing straight and then complete the
process. Repeat the steps for the other five rivets.
Repeat for the other 4 rivets.
 Press riveting
This is done using the "Plinker" style jig. Insert the
rivet into the receiver and through the trunnion.
Position the receiver/trunnion assembly under the
ram and set the rivet by pumping the press. Repeat
the steps for the other five rivets.
+++Post images+++
Fitting the magazine
At this point you will want to fit the magazine into
the receiver. Make sure that it seats all the way
down. If the catch on the back of the magazine does
not set flush to the bottom of the receiver you will
need to file the back of the mag well to fit.
 Trigger guard
Place the selector stop/spacer on the bottom of the
receiver flush with back of the mag well. Be sure to
locate the tab on the right side of the receiver. With
the selector stop/spacer in place check the rivet
holes. If you needed to file the back of the mag well
it may be necessary to adjust the hole placement.
This can be done with a round file. If you are using a
bent blank you can lock the selector stop/spacer in
place with the vise grips and use it as a drilling
template.
Hand riveting
Place the receiver up side down on your work bench
and position the selector stop/spacer and the trigger
guard. Insert a rivet into each hole. Lower the
trigger guard jig over the assembly.
If you are using a jig you bought you can turn it over
and secure the receiver to the jig using some scrap
wood and a "C" clamp. Set the jig over the open
jaws of the bench vise and use a hammer and punch
to flatten the rivets.

If you are using a jig you made per the directions

listed earlier you will need to turn it over and secure
it in the bench vise. Now you will secure the receiver
to the jig using scrap wood and "C" clamps. You will
also need to place a piece of 3/16" scrap metal
under the rear rivet to hold the receiver level while
setting the rivets.
Using the flat end of the punch you made start to set
the rivets. Go slowly! You do not want to damage
the receiver. Start with light strikes until you get a
feel for how much force is needed.

Press riveting
Place the receiver up side down on your work bench
and position the selector stop/spacer and the trigger
guard. Insert a rivet into each hole. Lower the
trigger guard jig over the assembly.
 Turn it over and secure the receiver to the jig using
some scrap wood and a "C" clamp. I modified this jig
by welding a 1/4" bolt on each side and use a cross
bar to hold the receiver firmly in place.
Align the pressing plate with the selector stop plate
so all 4 rivets will crush evenly. Position the jig
under the ram on the press. Set the spacer bar in
place and pump the press until set. Repeat for the
rear rivet.
The rivet heads should come out undamaged and
there should be no gaps between the receiver and
trigger guard. You will also want to insert a
magazine to ensure that they will lock in place.
 Rear trunnion
Inset the trunnion into the receiver. It may be
necessary to trim the top rails for proper fit. This can
be done with the Demel and a file. Position the
trunnion in the receiver and check for proper hole
alignment.

If the receiver does not have rivet holes in it you can

use the old receiver stub for a template to mark the
locations. Use a "C" clamp to lock the trunnion in
 place and drill through the same as for the front
trunnion. The rear trunnion rivets are usually "Swell
neck" type rivets and you will need to use a taper
punch to make the detent in the receiver.

Hand riveting with the bolt cutter

First thing is to attach the trunnion to the buttstock
with the screws. This will help stabilize the receiver
while setting the rivets. Inset the trunnion into the
receiver and install the front rivet. Lock the rivet in
place with the bucking bar and a "C" clamp. Set up
the bolt cutter in the bench vise as shown. Place the
end of the rivet in the detent in the upper jaw and
stat to compress. Check too ensure that the rivet is
setting straight. Continue to compress the rivet until
you have a domed head.
 Hand riveting with the punch and hammer
First thing is to attach the trunnion to the buttstock
with the screws. This will help stabilize the receiver
while setting the rivets. Inset the trunnion into the
receiver and install both rivets. Clamp the receiver
to the bucking plate and your work bench. Using the
end of the punch with the detent start to set the
rivet. GO SLOWLY! Start with light strikes until you
get a feel for how much force is needed to set the
rivet and form a domed head. Complete both rivets.
 Press riveting
This is done using the "Plinker" style jig from
AK-Builder or the long rivet jig from Gunthings.
Insert the rivet into the receiver and through the
trunnion. Position the receiver/trunnion assembly
under the ram and set the rivet by pumping the
press. Repeat the steps for the other rivet.
 Lower rails
At this point you will need to install the lower rails.
The lower rails stop the bolt from rotating while it
moves forward and transitions to the front trunnion.
They need to be set to ensure a smooth transition
from rail to trunnion. There are several ways to
attach the rails to the receiver.
Rail caliber modification
The right lower rail that comes with most
 commercial flats is set up for the 5.45x39mm rifles.
The magazines for these rifles are narrower than the
ones for the 7.62x39mm cartridge. The tab on the
bottom front of the right lower rail is set up to center
the narrower 5.45x39mm magazine and will not
allow the 7.62x39mm magazines to be properly
seated.

To use this in a 7.62x39mm rifle the tab needs to be

reduced by half. This can be done before installation
with a grinder or after installation with the Dremel or
a file.
Spot welding
With this process you will install one rail at a time.
Start with the left rail. Place it inside the receiver
and run the center support rivet through it from the
right side. Using a 1/4" drill bit as a spacer position
the top of the lower rail level with the transition
ledge on the front trunnion. Lock the lower rail in
place with the vise grips using a piece of scrap metal
as a pad on the outside of the receiver to avoid
marring the surface.
 Make one spot weld at each end of the rail and
remove the vise grips. make 3 more spot welds front
and back spaced out evenly.
Repeat this process with the right rail adding a spot
weld lower down by the hammer pin hole.
 Rosette welding
To rosette weld the rails you will need to drill 1/8"
holes in the receiver at the same locations where
spot welds would be. Use a marker to highlight the
side of the receiver and score a line 1/2" down from
the top rails. You will now need to mark and drill
holes through the receiver for the welds.

Once the holes are made start with the left rail.
Place it inside the receiver and run the center
support rivet through it from the right side. Using a
1/4" drill bit as a spacer position the top of the lower
rail level with the transition ledge on the front
trunnion. Lock the lower rail in place with the vise
grips using a piece of scrap metal as a pad on the
outside of the receiver to avoid marring the surface.
 From the outside, using a MIG or TIG welder (Arc
welders will usually get too hot and damage the
receiver.), Fill in each hole until it is just above the
level of the receiver side.
+++Post images+++
Once it cools you can use the Dremel or a file to
smooth the welds out.
Center support
The center support gives added rigidity to the
receiver and stops the hammer from falling forward
when field stripping the rifle. It may be necessary to
trim the center support to fit.
 Hand riveting
This can be done with either the Gunthings long rivet
jig or the rear trunnion hand rivet plate you made.
Insert the rivet from the left side of the receiver and
use the flat end of the punch to form the head. GO
SLOWLY! Start with light strikes until you get a feel
for how much force is needed to set the rivet. The
head needs to be flat so the selector will pass over
it.
 Press riveting
This can be done with either the Gunthings long rivet
jig or AK-Builder "Plinker" style jig. Insert the rivet
from the left side of the receiver and use the flat end
of the punch to form the head. Position the assembly
under the ram and set the rivet by pumping the
press. The head needs to be flat so the selector will
pass over it.
Trimming the top rails
The top rails need to be trimmed so the bolt carrier
and bolt will drop in and move freely. This will entail
making several cuts in the top rails and filing them
down. Starting at the rear trunnion you will need to
mark and cut out the bolt carrier slots. Be sure to
cut these under size and file to fit!

Once you have it so the bolt carrier will fit into the
slots you will need to trim the rails full length. Use
 the Dremel with a sanding wheel to do this. Go
slowly and check the bolt carrier fit often!

When you have reduced the rails to the point that

the bolt carrier can be forced by hand all the way
forward finish trimming the rails with a hand file.
You want to get to the point where the bolt carrier
will move smoothly back and forth just by tilting the
receiver.
At this point insert the bolt into the carrier and
install it into the receiver as far as it will go. If
necessary mark the rails on each side for the wide
parts of the bolt and use a file to make cutout for
the bolt to drop into. You will also check to see if the
bolt will pass the ejector on the left lower rail. If it
binds you will want to use a file to reduce the ejector
so as not to effect the heat treating.
At this point the receiver is complete and should look
like this:

Putting a finish on the parts

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Screw build
Doing a screw build will produce a nice looking and
durable rifle if care is taken to properly thread the
parts and secure the screws. It is best to do the
build from the front back. This will ensure proper fit
and placement of the parts and allow for adjustment
of the mag well if needed.
Front trunnion
Insert the trunnion into the front of the receiver. It
may be necessary to trim the top rails to get a
proper fit. Mark the top rails to show how far back
they will need to be trimmed.

You can use the Dremel and files to do the trimming.

The receiver sides should set flat against the
trunnion sides.
 Depending on the receiver used the trunnion rivet
holes may need to be located and drilled. There are
several ways to do this. The first option is to use a
"Post-it" note. Place the note on one side of the
trunnion and use a marker to show the hole location.
Insert the trunnion into the receiver and lock it in
place with a "C" clamp and drill the rivet holes. You
can drill all the way through to do both side a the
same time.You can also make a locator jig to find
the holes.
Once the trunnion has been fitted and the rivet holes
drilled in the receiver you will need to re drill the
holes in the trunnion using the #21 drill bit. Next
lock the trunnion in the bench vise on it's side and
tap the 10-32 threads. GO SLOWLY! Use the cutting
oil and back the tap out after every turn to clear the
channels. Repeat for the other side.

Inset the trunnion into the receiver and using

Locktite, tighten the screws. Place a magazine into
 the mag well. The mag catch on the back of the
magazine should set flush with the bottom of the
receiver. It may be necessary to file the back of the
mag well for a proper fit.
Trigger guard
Place the selector stop/spacer on the bottom of the
receiver flush with back of the mag well. Be sure to
locate the tab on the right side of the receiver. With
the selector stop/spacer in place insert a magazine
and check the rivet holes. If you had to file the back
of the mag well it may be necessary to adjust the
hole placement. This can be done with a round
file.Starting with the rear screw insert an 8-32 screw
through the trigger guard and receiver. Using
Locktite, secure the screw from the inside with an
8-32 nut. Now slide the selector stop in place and do
the last 4 8-32 screws.
 You can use 8-32 nuts on the front of the trigger
guard or you can buy one of the tapped screw plates
that are available on the chat boards. Once the
screws are in place and secure insert a magazine to
be sure that it will lock in place.

Rear trunnion
Inset the trunnion into the receiver. It may be
necessary to trim the top rails for proper fit. This can
be done with the Demel and a file. Position the
trunnion in the receiver and check for proper hole
alignment. If the receiver does not have rivet holes
use the post-it note method as with the front
trunnion. Lock the trunnion in place with a "C" clamp
and drill through the same as for the front
trunnion. Once the trunnion has been fitted and the
rivet holes drilled in the receiver you will need to re
drill the holes in the trunnion using the #7 drill bit.
 Do this from each side and only about 1/2" deep.
Next lock the trunnion in the bench vise on it's side
and tap the 1/4-20 threads. GO SLOWLY! Use the
cutting oil and back the tap out after every turn to
clear the channels. Repeat for the other side.Insert
the trunnion into the receiver and using Locktite,
tighten the screws.

Lower rails
Rail caliber modification
The right lower rail that comes with most
commercial flats is set up for the 5.45x39mm rifles.
The magazines for these rifles are narrower than the
ones for the 7.62x39mm cartridge. The tab on the
bottom front of the right lower rail is set up to center
the narrower 5.45x39mm magazine and will not
allow the 7.62x39mm magazines to be properly
seated.
To use this in a 7.62x39mm rifle the tab needs to be
reduced by half. This can be done before installation
with a grinder or after installation with the Dremel or
a file.
This method makes use 6-32 button head screws.
With this process you will install one rail at a time.
Start with the left rail. Place it inside the receiver
and run .200" drill bit through it from the right side.
Using a 1/4" drill bit as a spacer position the top of
the lower rail level with the transition ledge on the
front trunnion. Lock the lower rail in place with the
vise grips using a piece of scrap metal as a pad on
the outside of the receiver to avoid marring the
surface. Use a marker to highlight the side of the
receiver and score a line 1/2" down from the top of
the rails.
 You will now need to mark and drill holes through
the receiver and rail for the screws to go
through. Tap the receiver and rails for 6-32 screws.
At this point you will need to heat treat the rail and
holes as outlined in Preparing the receiver .
Apply JB Weld to the back of the lower rail and set in
place. Insert the screws from the outside and tighten
them down. The JB Weld will form a bond between
the rails and the receiver and will also fill in the
threads of the screws to lock them in place.

Repeat for the right rail.

Center support
The center support gives added rigidity to the
receiver and stops the hammer from falling forward
 when field stripping the rifle. Trim the 1/4" OD
tubing or rod to 1.17". Drill and tap the ends for the
8-32 screws. Position the center support between
the lower rails and start a screw from each side. It
will be necessary to use 2 allen wrenches to tighten
them. Be sure to use Locktite on both screws.

Trimming the top rails

The top rails need to be trimmed so the bolt carrier
and bolt will drop in and move freely. This will entail
making several cuts in the top rails and filing them
down. Starting at the rear trunnion you will need to
mark and cut out the bolt carrier slots. Be sure to
cut these under size and file to fit!
Once you have it so the bolt carrier will fit into the
slots you will need to trim the rails full length. Use
the Dremel with a sanding wheel to do this. Go
slowly and check the bolt carrier fit often!
 When you have reduced the rails to the point that
the bolt carrier can be forced by hand all the way
forward finish trimming the rails with a hand file.
You want to get to the point where the bolt carrier
will move smoothly back and forth just by tilting the
receiver.
At this point insert the bolt into the carrier and
install it into the receiver as far as it will go. If
necessary mark the rails on each side for the wide
parts of the bolt and use a file to make cutout for
the bolt to drop into. You will also check to see if the
bolt will pass the ejector on the left lower rail. If it
binds you will want to use a file to reduce the ejector
so as not to effect the heat treating.
At this point the receiver is complete and should look
like this:

Putting a finish on the parts

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Putting a finish on the parts

For the purposes of this tutorial I am only going to
address spray on finishes. I have done Parkerizing
and hot bluing but most people do not have the
facilities to try these with any amount of success.
The three spray on finishes I have used are:
Moly Resin from http://www.molyresin.com/
This is a Polish Tantal in Gray/Black Moly Resin.
 Dura Coat from http://www.lauerweaponry.com/
This is a metric FAL in Dura Coat Flat Black.

and Dupli-color 500 or 1200 degree with ceramic

from any auto parts store.
This is a Romanian AKM in Dupli-color 1200 Flat
Black.

Each of these finishes has proven to be very durable.

The rifles shown above have each had over 500
rounds fired and multiple cleanings without issues.
Of the three only the Dura Coat requires a long
curing time of up to three weeks. The Moly Resin
and Dupli-color are oven cured and the rifle can be
assembled and used at once.
 Metal preparation
Full sandblasting of the parts is nice but is not
necessary. I have found that the original parts from
the kits have a rough enough surface that the finish
will bond properly. The receiver will need to have the
surface scored to achieve a long lasting bond. I have
found that using a 3M green pad or fine grit
sandpaper used in a circular motion works well for
this.
It is also very important to totally de grease the
parts for a good bond of the finish. I use an engine
cleaner followed by brake cleaner. I then bake the
parts at 250 degrees on news print followed by more
engine cleaner.
Application
Both the Moly Resin and the Dura Coat need an
airbrush to apply. The Dupli-color comes in a shaker
can.
Moly Resin
You will need to heat the parts to 150 degrees
before applying the spray. This can be done in you
kitchen oven on a cookie sheet.
Dura Coat
Cold application.
Dupli-color
Cold application.
Curing
Moly Resin
Oven cured at 400 degrees for one hour. Must be
wiped down with light weight oil once it has cooled.
Dupli-color
Oven cured at 400 degrees for one hour.
Dura Coat
Needs to set up for 72 hours before the parts can be
assembled and up to three weeks to be fully
 resistant to solvents.
Tips on curing
I have made some hooks and stands for the parts
out of wire coat hangers. These allow me to hang
the barrel and receiver from the top rack in the oven
and set up the rest of the parts on a cookie sheet
on the lower rack. It is very important that the parts
do not touch anything while they are in the oven or
the finish will not bond.
Final assembly of the rifle
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Final assembly of the rifle

You should now have something that looks like this:

Pressing the barrel in

This is the only "mechanical" process in the final
assembly. It can be done with a shop press or with
 the barrel press I outlined earlier.
Shop press
Start by cleaning the inside of the front trunnion and
the outside of the chamber end of the barrel. Put
some high pressure lube on the inside edge of the
front trunnion (I use RCBS case lube.) and start the
barrel in by hand. Be sure that the barrel is indexed
correctly and is straight and level with the top of the
receiver.

Use a 5/8" copper or aluminum rod about 8" long to

support the receiver through the mag well with the
barrel pointing up. Cushion the muzzle with a penny
or nickel to protect it and start pumping the press.
The barrel will make some popping sounds as it goes
in.
 As the barrel gets close to being seated you will
need to watch through the barrel pin hole to stop at
the proper alignment.
 Hand barrel press
Start by cleaning the inside of the front trunnion and
the outside of the chamber end of the barrel. Put
some high pressure lube on the inside edge of the
front trunnion (I use RCBS case lube.) and start the
barrel in by hand. Be sure that the barrel is indexed
correctly and is straight and level with the top of the
receiver. Using something to pad the receiver, lock it
into the bench vise. Install the bolt carrier all the
way forward.
 Insert the aluminum tube into the muzzle leaving
about 1" exposed. Run the thread rod through the
aluminum tubing and out the back of the bolt carrier
about 1". Run 2 copper washers onto the thread rod
and then the tension nut. Thread the key stock block
onto the rod at the back of the bolt carrier being
sure that the tang on the bolt carrier is in the slot on
the block. Lock the block in place with the 1/4" nut.

Hold the rear block in place and run the copper

 washers up to the muzzle. The aluminum tube will
move back on it's own. Place some grease on the
muzzle and between the copper washers. Run the
tension nut up to the washers and snug it down.
Start to tighten the tension nut. Be sure to hold the
rear sight block to stop the index from changing.As
the barrel gets close to being seated watch through
the barrel pin hole to see when it is properly aligned.

Checking headspace
Unless you have a set of headspace gauges I would
advise having the headspace checked by a
gunsmith.
The first thing to do is strip the bolt and clean the
bolt face and the chamber. To strip the bolt you will
need to remove the main pin and the extractor pin.
Using a small pin punch driver the main pin out from
the bottom and remove the firing pin.

Next, using a small screw driver or punch push the

extractor pin out while putting pressure on the
extractor face. Remove the extractor and spring. The
bolt is now stripped.
 Now you will want to completely clean the bolt face
and the chamber. Use cleaning solvent and a bore
brush to ensure that all residue and grime are
removed. The two most common gauges are the
"GO" and "NO-GO" and are plainly marked for
identification. Be sure that you use gauges made by
the same manufacturer to ensure accuracy.
 Insert the "GO" gauge into the chamber and close
the bolt by hand. The locking lug should seat fully to
the top left of the trunnion. Repeat the process with
the "NO-GO" gauge. When you seat the bolt on the
"NO-GO" gauge use finger pressure only. The bolt
should not lock up fully. If you use a lot of pressure
you may be able to force it to close. If it closes
easily on the gauge then the headspace may need to
be reset.
 Install the barrel pin
Reinstall the pin is just the opposite of removing it.
Installing a new gas piston
If you have opted to use a US made gas piston as a
compliance part it will need to be drilled and riveted
in place. Screw the gas piston all the way into the
bolt carrier and then back it out 1/2 turn. Use a
Sharpie to make a mark through the rivet hole.
Unscrew the piston and drill a 1/8" hole through it at
the mark.

Insert a rivet and hammer it flat on the anvil of the

bench vise. Use the Demel to contour the rivet heads
on both sides to match the bolt carrier.
Installing the furniture
Install the pistol grip nut from the inside of the
receiver and screw the grip on.
Install the buttstock. It may require some taps with
a rubber mallet to seat all the way. Screw the
buttstock in place.
 Replace the handguard and the gas tube.

Installing the FCG

This section will show the proper installation of the
FCG and how it works. First lets look at the parts
and how they fit into the receiver.
These are the full auto parts that may have come
with your kit. They will not be used in this type of
build.

Installing the hammer

The first step is to install the hammer. Insert the
hammer into the Hammer/Trigger spring as shown.
Secure the long ends of the spring to the hammer
with a twist tie.
 Turn the hammer sideways and lower it into the
receiver. Turn it again so the wings on the hammer
are to the back and insert a axis pin from the left.
Run the pin all the way through to the matching hole
on the right side of the receiver. Secure the pin on
the left with tape.
 Installing the trigger and disconector
If you are using a captive system assemble as
shown.

Drop the assembly into the receiver and insert a axis

pin from the left. Run the pin all the way through to
the matching hole on the right side of the receiver.
Secure the pin on the left with tape.
 If you are using a non captive system drop the
trigger into the receiver and start the axis pin from
the left side but do not put it all the way through.
Insert the disconector spring into disconector and
lower them onto the trigger. Push the pin the rest of
the way through to the matching hole on the right
side of the receiver. Secure the pin on the left with
tape.
 Locking the axis pins
There are 3 basic options for locking the axis pins.
The Shepard's hook, a retainer plate or "E" clips.
Shepard's hook
If you received the full auto parts with your kit you
should have a long wire with a coil spring on the
end. You can use this to make the Shepard's hook
by cutting off the spring. The wire then installs over
the pins as shown.
 Retainer plate
The retainer plate hooks over the hammer pin and
rotates down onto the trigger pin. It is held in place
by the left side selector arm.

"E" clips
Place one "E" clip on each pin as shown.

Installing the safety selector

Insert the selector from the right side. Make sure
that it seats into the matching hole on the left.
Rotate the selector forward and down to the selector
stop. Remove the twist tie from the hammer and
position the spring legs over the rear arms of the
trigger.
Holding the trigger back cock the hammer. Be sure
that the disconector grabs it and holds it in place.
Release the trigger and the hammer should fall
forward to the hook on the trigger.
 Rotate the safety selector up until the detent is on
the top rail. Pull the trigger. The hammer should not
release.

If the hammer drops the safety selector will need to

have some metal added to the contact arm.
Installing the bolt/carrier and recoil spring
Insert the bolt into the carrier and drop the
assembly into the receiver. Run the bolt/carrier
assemble forward to the front trunnion.
Insert the recoil spring into the bolt carrier and lock
it into the rear trunnion.

Insert the top cover into the slot in the front sight
block and push it down into the slot in the rear
trunnion until it locks in place.
 FINISHED!!!
You should now have something that looks like this.
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