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Coasts Fall 2021

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Meshel Alkorbi
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20 views61 pages

Coasts Fall 2021

Uploaded by

Meshel Alkorbi
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Coasts

1
The Coastal zone
• ……is both erosional and depositional.
• ……is very dynamic
• Short term balance vs. long term instability in response
to…..
• Daily tidal/coastal processes that produce a “stable” coastline
• Long term changes in sea level, subsidence, tectonics, or
sediment supply that are driving the coast to ward a new
equilibrium

2
Why should we care?
• Greater than 50% of U.S. Population is along/near the coast.

• Ecological concerns (migratory species, ocean fisheries/nurseries)

• Impacts from offshore activities (e.g. petroleum production)

• Different coastal processes/products operate over wide timescale

• What is short term vs. long term? (See first bullet point)

• The coast is NOT just the beach.

• Coastal zones can extend km inland, but also extend out into the ocean.

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http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nZTYi2oyRtk/VDGdSl0oIYI/AAAAAAAABtM/B0ZctG4lKt4/s1600/figure-17-08.jpg
Coastal Zones
• Subtidal
• Always underwater
• Intertidal
• Daily wet and dry periods due to tides
• Supratidal
• Above water, except during strongest storms
• Wind-blown deposits common

5
Coastal Processes
• Waves
• Generated by the transfer of energy from wind to water

• Influenced by duration and strength of wind, and also


fetch (distance over which the wind blows)

• Fetch influences wave height and period

• Largest recorded waves: (34m/112ft)

6
Waves, cont.
• Waves move away from point of generation and self
organize into swells and oscillation

7
Wave interaction with the coast

Wave refraction Shoaling

8
Breaking waves

9
Breaking waves

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0a/Surfers_at_Mavericks.jpg

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Swash zone

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https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/625/30860948724_cee332b96e_b.jpg
Heavy mineral
concentrations

13
Heavy mineral
concentrations

14
https://prd-wret.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/assets/palladium/production/s3fs-public/thumbnails/image/mineral-sands-Folly-Beach.jpg
Heavy mineral
concentrations

15
Berm

http://vboping.blogspot.com/2010/07/
16
Tides
• 2X/day rise and fall of ocean levels (mostly)

20% greater tidal range 20% less tidal range


17
Mechanisms of sediment
transport
• Swash
• Longshore current

18
Oblique waves

19
Jetties and groins

20
https://www.southernenvironment.org/news-and-press/news-feed/selc-partners-appeal-georgia-courts-decision-allowing-construction-of-sea-i
Jetties and groins

21
http://www.rossieizlar.com/index.php/2017/03/12/part-iii-engineering-the-beach-2/
https://www.internetgeography.net/topics/landforms-of-coastal-deposition/ 22
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Gonna need to dredge……..

https://www.santacruzsentinel.com/2016/04/16/gary-griggs-our-ocean-backyard-to-dredge-or-not-to-dredge/ 25
Barrier Islands

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Barrier islands

28
http://oystercatchertracking.org/wp-content/uploads/Barrier-Island_Drum-Inlet_0053_96dpi.jpg
29
Tidal Flats

30
Stacks and arches

31
Stacks and arches

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bxCRdy8x8OU/maxresdefault.jpg 32
Indicators of sea level rise: Delmarva

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Indicators of sea level rise: Delmarva

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…..and with rising sea levels
• The effects of hurricanes are intensified.

• Which affects ocean/coastal life

• ….and our stuff.

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What about our stuff??

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https://serc.carleton.edu/vignettes/collection/45894.html 41
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Wave set-up

44
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Storm Surge

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High tide

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