Objectives

• Learn to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden

• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp

• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of shampoo

Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of conditioner

• Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic shampooing and conditioning

Scalp Care and Massage

• Cleanliness and stimulation

• Continuous and even motion

• DO NOT perform if abrasions are present

• When to perform? – Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent, or – During the shampoo, after
conditioner is applied for relaxation

• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation.

• Scalp treatments and massages should be given with a continuous and even motion that will stimulate
the scalp and help to relax the client.

• Do not massage or manipulate a client’s scalp if abrasions are present.

• Scalp massage and treatments may be performed 1. before a shampoo or 2. during the shampoo, after
the conditioner has been applied, for relaxation.

Scalp Treatments

• Given BEFORE or DURING a shampoo service

• Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which products used

• Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit the service

Scalp treatments and massage may be performed either:

Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent

During the shampoo (once conditioner has been applied to the hair) for relaxation The difference
between a relaxation and a treatment massage is the products you use. Be sure to follow all of the
manufacturer’s directions whenever a special scalp treatment product is used. For simple relaxation,
almost any conditioner may be used to create a very enjoyable experience for your client. Extra services
like this will keep your clients coming back to you. Knowing the muscles, the location of blood vessels,
and the nerve points of the scalp and neck will help guide you to those areas most likely to benefit from
massage movements.

Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition

• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp examination

NOTE: Inform students that specific procedures will be covered in detail during the practical class and
demonstration. Explain that you are doing an overview of various procedures and theories now and that
hands-on learning will come later.

Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Used if natural oil is deficient

• Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients

• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with high alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer

A dry hair and scalp treatment should be used when there is a deficiency of natural oil on the scalp and
hair. Select scalp preparations containing moisturizing and emollient ingredients. Avoid the use of strong
soaps, preparations containing a mineral- or sulfonated-oil base, greasy preparations, or lotions with
high alcohol content. During a dry hair and scalp treatment, a scalp steamer, which resembles a hooded
dryer, is used.

OILY HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENT

Excessive oiliness is caused by overactive sebaceous glands. Manipulate the scalp and knead it to
increase blood circulation to the surface. Any hardened sebum in the pores of the scalp will be removed
with gentle pressing or squeezing. To normalize the function of these glands, excess sebum should be
flushed out with each treatment.

Antidandruff Treatment

• Cause: a fungus called malassezia

• Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales

Dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia. Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical
lotions contain antifungal agents that control dandruff by suppressing the growth of malassezia.
Moisturizing salon treatments also soften and loosen scalp scales that stick to the scalp in crusts.
Because of the ability of fungus to resist treatment, additional salon treatments and the frequent use of
antidandruff home care should be recommended

Hair Brushing

• Stimulates circulation

• Removes dust, dirt, and product build-up

• Adds shine

• Allows for scalp examination

CORRECT HAIR BRUSHING

• Stimulates blood circulation to the scalp

• Helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup from the hair and,

• Gives hair added shine

• Gives the stylist a chance to examine the scalp for abrasions and/or infections.

• Hair brushing should be included as part of every shampoo and scalp treatment.

• The most highly recommended hairbrushes are those made from natural bristles which have tiny
overlapping layers that clean and add luster to the hair.
To Brush? Or Not to Brush?

• Do not brush or irritate the scalp before giving a chemical service: – Single process and double process
hair color – Highlighting – Relaxers – Some temporary and semi permanent hair colors

• Do not brush if the scalp is irritated

Shampoo Selection
• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair,
whether the hair is natural, color treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.

• Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

Selection Considerations

• Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated

• Hair condition: over processed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care,
exposure to elements

• Home maintenance

• pH-balanced shampoos

Select a shampoo according to the condition of the client's hair and scalp. Hair can usually be
characterized as oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated. Your client might even have an oily scalp with
dry hair, possibly due to over processing. When selecting the shampoo to be used, be aware of whether
or not the hair has been chemically treated. Chemically treated hair (hair that has been lightened,
colored, permed, or chemically relaxed) and hair that has been abused by the use of harsh shampoos or
damaged by improper care and exposure to the elements (wind, sun, cold, or heat) may require a
product that is less harsh and more conditioning than a product suitable for virgin hair (hair that has not
been chemically treated).

Types of Shampoos
• pH-balanced

Conditioning

• Medicated

• Clarifying

• Balancing
• Dry or powder

• Color-enhancing

• For hairpieces and wigs

Shampoo products represent the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products. PH-balanced: Has a
pH of 4.5 to 5.5, the same as hair. By adding citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid to any shampoo, it can
become acid balanced. Consumers Union chemists believe that a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 is essential to prevent
excessive dryness and hair damage. A pH between 5 and 8 is too small to affect the hair and scalp due to
the limited time of actual application. Conditioning: Also known as moisturizing. Designed to make hair
smooth and shiny, improve manageability, and avoid damage to chemically treated hair. Protein and
biotin are conditioning agents that restore moisture and elasticity, strengthen hair shaft, and add
volume. They are also non-stripping. Medicated: Reduce dandruff or relieve scalp conditions. Some
require a prescription. Clarifying: Contain an acidic ingredient like cider vinegar to cut through product
buildup. They increase shine; shouldn’t be used regularly, but as needed. Balancing: Wash away excess
oiliness while keeping hair from drying out. Dry or powder: Used when client’s health prevents a wet
shampoo. They cleanse without the use of soap and water. Powder picks up dirt and oils as you brush or
comb through the hair. Color-enhancing: The shampoo surfactant is combined with basic dyes. Similar to
temporary rinses; removed with plain shampooing; used to brighten, to add some slight color, and to
eliminate unwanted color tones. For hairpieces and wigs: Special solutions are formulated for these.

The Shampoo Experience

• Massage for client preference.

• Adjust water temperature for client choice.

• Don’t wet client’s face.

• Double-check nape area.

• Do not drench towel around neck.

• Blot hair, not face.

• Give relaxation massage.

The scalp is always massaged according to the preference of the client. Some clients have a sensitive
scalp and want a very light massage, while others want a firm massage. In order to service every client
to the best of your ability, ask about massage preferences before beginning the procedure. Always ask
the client if the water feels too warm, too cool, or just right; adjust the temperature accordingly. Do not
allow the water or your hands to touch a woman's face during the shampoo. Allowing the client’s face to
get wet may remove part of her base makeup and can turn an otherwise great shampoo into an
unpleasant experience. It is easy to miss the nape of the neck when shampooing and rinsing, so you
should always double-check this area before escorting the client to your station. Throughout the
shampoo, be very careful not to drench the towel that is draped around the client’s neck. If the towel
becomes damp, replace it with a clean, dry towel before leaving the shampoo area. When blotting the
hair after the shampoo, be careful once again not to touch the face. If you remove part of your client’s
makeup, she may feel self-conscious during her entire visit. As you learn to give a great shampoo, you
should also learn how to give a great relaxation massage. You may hear your clients say, “Don't stop,
you can do that for hours,” every time they come to you. Even though you may hear this five times a
day, it is always satisfying to know that you are making your clients feel good

Conditioners
• Deposit protein and moisturizer

• Restore strength and give body

• Protect against breakage

• Types – Rinse-out – Treatment or repair – Leave-in

Conditioners are special chemical agents applied to the hair to deposit protein or moisturizer, to help
restore its strength and give it body, or to protect against possible breakage. They are a temporary “fix”
and cannot “heal” damaged hair or improve the quality of new hair growth. Think of them like a Band-
Aid; they only cover up the damage, not repair the damage. Remember: Heredity, health, and diet
control the texture and structure of hair.

Other Conditioning Agents

• Spray-on thermal protectors

• Scalp conditioners

• Medicated scalp lotions

• Scalp astringent lotions

Spray-on thermal protectors: Applied prior to thermal service to protect hair from hot tool services.
Scalp conditioners: Usually a cream base used to soften and improve scalp health. Medicated scalp
lotions: Promote healing of the scalp. Scalp astringent lotions: Used to remove oil accumulation from
scalp; used after a scalp treatment and before styling.

Deep Conditioning Treatments

• Also known as masks or conditioning packs

• Penetrate the cuticle layer

• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required

Deep Conditioning Treatments are usually processed with a plastic cap under the hood dryer for 10-15
minutes. This would be considered an add-on service.

Draping

• Client must be properly draped for each service.

• Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over; replaced with neck strip
and cape.

Summary and Review

1. What shampoo is appropriate for use on clients with dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged
hair?

2. What is the action of conditioner on hair? 3. What are the benefits of scalp massage?

Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair. As a cosmetologist, you will need to be able to analyze hair type
and hair products to determine the best shampoo for your client. You should always follow the
manufacturer’s directions when using any product, including shampoos. Remember that shampooing is
an opportunity for you to put clients at ease and make them feel comfortable about the service they are
about to receive. Take care to be gentle when shampooing prior to a chemical service. Choose the
correct shampoo for the hair type. A quality shampoo builds the foundation for successful salon services
and for continued retail sales. 1. What shampoo is appropriate for use on clients with dandruff? product
buildup? damaged hair? The shampoo most appropriate for use on clients with dandruff is a medicated
or antidandruff shampoo that contains an antifungal agent. The shampoo most appropriate for use on
product buildup is a clarifying shampoo. The shampoo most appropriate for use on damaged hair is a
conditioning or moisturizing shampoo. 2. What is the action of conditioner on hair? Conditioners deposit
protein or moisturizer to help restore the hair’s strength, give it body, and protect it against possible
breakage. 3. What are the benefits of scalp massage? Scalp massage helps to relax the client; keep the
scalp in a healthy condition; increase natural oil production on the scalp if the client has a dry scalp;
increase blood circulation; and removes any hardened sebum in the pores of the scalp to help normalize
the production of sebum in an oily scalp.