Drill Grinding With The PP-U3 Grinder Copy of The Deckel SO Grinder
Drill Grinding With The PP-U3 Grinder Copy of The Deckel SO Grinder
Last update:26/10/2018
The Chinese copy of the Deckel tool grinder S0 has a very poor documentation, and the most important
thing is not copied of the drill grinder attachment. I has bought this machine two years ago for grinding
lathe tools and end-mills. For this you will find a lot documentation via You-tube. I has a lot expensive
cobalt drills who are where-out and they must regrind. I has two solutions; grind the drills by hand as I did
usually, or using the tool grinder PP-U3. Because I had some time to do this investigation this winter, I will
use the PP-U3 grinder. After the reverse engineering of this drill attachment and also done some
calculations is was able to grind drill of diameter 9.98mm who gives a hole diameter 10,05. With hand
grinding I never comes so close to the expected diameter and it was always a 0.1 to 0.3mm ( 4- to 12 thou)
greater than the diameter of the drill. This means that the tool is very useful because it is similar to the
POTS drill jig who is existing form 1930. The clever engineer Michael Deckel has adapted on his single lip
grinder in a clever way. The missing thing in the Chinese copy is a scale on the v-grove part where you has
place the tool. With the use of two tables is the missing thing not necessary. But there are also more
things where we must keep attention. The main disadvantage of the PP-U3 drill grinding jig the drill
holding and his orientation in the tool. Change over form one cutting edge to the other must be done
carefully and close to the drill top we has no sense where the important cone-shape axes is positioned
regarding the drill. In this document I will described the necessary hardware changes to make it more
usefully and accurate.
During the search of others drill grinding jig’s there are two persons takes my attention;
- Joseph Mazoff
Both persons has done a lot of research about drill top geometric, and leave us with a lot of useful
documentation about drill relief geometric on the internet.
Of course today I suppose that there exist more accurate drill grinding tools, some are good others are
terrible bad. For my hobby workshop is the PP-U3 exceptional good and always better than hand grinding,
so I don’t spend money and effort to make one drill jig. But as you know with all the Chinese machine
there is a lot room to do some improvements. Practice about drill grinding shows always for a nice and
precise results. Both cutting edges take away the same amount of material and the down-feed speed has a
linear function in order to the turning speed of the drill. Pulling harder to speed-up the drilling process has
no sense and it will invoke more friction on the first facet of the relief angle. Even a grinded drill on PP-U3
cut’s munch better than a new drill.
For factories they has mostly an own tool-grinding department with very expensive grinding machines and
if not they give the tools grinding job to an external and specialized company.
With this jig one of the major problem is the orientation of the drill in the V-bar, and to change over to the other
cutting edge, by turning the drill 180 degrees exactly. A little error of 5 degrees will caused an asymmetrical grinded
drill where only one cutting edge will cut, but these error will become worse if you aligned the first cutting edge to
the cone-axes. To avoid this problem we need a fixed reference to the cone-axes on the V-bar. To obtain this
reference is done by cutting 1mm away, where the top of the end-mill is positioned 9.80mm of the top-side from V-
bar (see setup on the video). After removal of the drill-clamping tool the setup is done as following; the V-bar is
sitting in 2 small V-blocs under 45 degrees on the milling table and the 12mm jig holder axes must be held parallel to
the milling table, with an error less 0.005mm on both ends of the 12mm axes. To complete this modifications 3 new
stop-plates must be make, see fig 3.
With one lever and one setting screw is it possible to clamp the drill in the v-bar. It has nothing to do with the drill
grinding, but it will make this easier. For this reason I will make a separate project for this improvement.
Once the setup is done for one drill nothing has to be changed until both cutting edges are finished.
On fig 1, I has drawing several sizes of cones on the same axes but the only good range between 2.4 and 3 times the
diameter of the drill. The table 2 is only valid for a drill top angle of (14+45)*2 = 118 degrees. This top angle is
common for the most applications of HSS drills. Fig 2 gives an enlargement of view on the top of drill. The cone axes
on this drawing is always above drill axes and will meet the cutting edge of the drill when the latter is positioned on
zero degrees of twist, meaning that this becomes inline with stop-side the new adjusters plates. Due to the
inclination of the V-grove all the cutting edges of the drills form several diameter lying more or less against to the
cone axes. When you put the cutting edge on the cone axes before starting of grinding, then you will grind only a two
facet of the drill. The result is that the hart line is straight line and orthogonal with the drill axes, and this will cause
walking around of the drill point on a flat surface. In order to get a four facet grinded drill the drill must be twisted
and put in such position that the finishing of grinding the cutting edge must be at least more than ten degrees
twisted.
Results:
Beyond all expectations, the results are excellent if you follow the settings of the tables. Both cutting edges remove
roughly the same amount of material during drilling. Sometimes the grinding work is too good because the bore
diameter comes too close to the drill diameter, which causes increased friction when drilling deep holes of at least
50mm.
Remarks:
For small drills below 5mm the setting position of the whole tool-post has an influence on the initial relief angle,
because the tool-post tilted more to the stone. This initial relief angle is important for the first facet and practice
shows that an extra relief angle is needed, when the drill don’t want to enter the workpiece. With the PP-U3 you can
easy increase the relief angle to max 3 degrees with the relief angle setting.
For large drills above the 15mm the jig swivelling radius is always increasing and it is possible you will come to the
limits of the machine when you using 3*D column. In this case you can 2,4*D or the minimum radius in the table. This
give as result a little greater relief angle due to the smaller cone but the initial relief angle of the flat surface remains
the same.
The basic grinding method is completely the same as by HSS drills only the top angle is increased. I has done the
calculations for a top angle of 134° and 138° degrees. The 134° is more recommended for HSS-Co with soft stainless
steel while 138° is useful HSS-Co and carbide drills hard stainless steel and other hard tool steel. The cone corner is
then set to 22° or 24° instead of 14° by HSS. Thus for the cobalt drills the settings of table 1 remains valid while the
setting of Xt is different and for this you need to use table 3 or table 4. To make a hole in hard stainless steel, has the
top of drill, I main the heart line, problems to push away material out of the centre of the drill, the temperature will
increase on the heart. The stainless steel becomes harder by increase the temperature and this will lead us to broken
or burned drill. To avoid this problem we need to reduce the heart line on the top of the drill by adding two small
cutting edges to the centre of the drill. Remark; by increasing the cone corner the swing radius becomes greater.
Larger range of diameters are not feasible with the tool grinder PP-U3.
Additional grindings:
Reduction of the heart-line or creating a tertiary facet and centre cutting edge:
For the cobalt drills is this work strongly recommended. After grinding the first two cutting edge , we have to change
the machine setup. Al settings of the drill-jig remains the same. Now we must bring the drill axes line orthogonal with
the stone axes. It is better to set it for positive rake-angle of 5 degrees so that the little new cutting edge at centre
takes material away instead of displace it. This little cutting edge start very close to the centre and may not pass over
the centre. Take a lot care while you are grind this, because it must also repeated for the other cutting edge. The
stone corner may not pass over the cuttings edges and also not pass the chisel-edge. The smallest part of the corner
becomes the new additional little cutting edge close to the drill centre(line between green and blue face in the
drawing below). For both sides they must lie on one straight line. Be carefull it is precision grinding, stone corner
must reach the centre, but when it goes over you must restart form the beginning.
- Set the drill tool close to the stone but the drill-centre is not reachable by the stone.
- Adjust the swivelling until it starts grinding, and fix this movement.
- Move the grinding stone sideways until the side plane of the stone is in line with the drill centre. Notice the
distance from the dial, and retract the stone.
- Swivel the drill tool backwards and turn the drill itself over 180° for the second edge.
- Swivel the drill tool carefully and slow to the detent.
- Start grinding by moving the stone forward to same setting as before.
Regarding the documents of Joseph Mazoff he has proven that the outer sharp corner points of the cutting edge are
not needed, because it is the first thing that will be wear off. By adding an extra cutting edge on these two corners
the tool life can be extended by 30 to 50 percent. Of course this is means an additional machine setup for grinding
but on the U3 tool grinder is it impossible to execute this successfully.
Drill speeds
I has some comments on drill speeds, because I saw a lot hobby-shop where they are using the wrong speed. At the
end of this document I has make table with de recommend speed for drilling. Experienced technicians immediately
feel the speed needed to drill into various materials.
On fig 3 there is one dimension is forgotten: centre of 4mm hole from the straight side is 3.8mm
The left side of the plate must be a straight edge without chamfers while the top side has a large chamfer a the
backside of 45 degrees. The thickness for all plates must be between 1.5mm and 2.0mm.
Remarks on all the tabels: linear interpolation is possible, calculations in metric and inches
Table 2 valid for HSS drills cone corner 14° results in a top angle 118°
Table 3 for HSS-Co drills cone corner 22° results in a top angle 134°
Table 4 for HSS-Co drills cone corner 24° results in a top angle 138°
Aluminium
Drill diameter Steel Bronze Inox
mm inch rpm rpm rpm
2 0,079 3183 6366 1061
3 0,118 2122 4244 707
4 0,157 1592 3183 531
5 0,197 1273 2546 424
6 0,236 1061 2122 354
7 0,276 909 1819 303
8 0,315 796 1592 265
9 0,354 707 1415 236
10 0,394 637 1273 212
11 0,433 579 1157 193
12 0,472 531 1061 177
13 0,512 490 979 163
14 0,551 455 909 152
15 0,591 424 849 141
16 0,630 398 796 133
17 0,669 374 749 125
18 0,709 354 707 118
19 0,748 335 670 112
20 0,787 318 637 106