Cocoa Farmer's Handbook - Papua New Guinea
Cocoa Farmer's Handbook - Papua New Guinea
Cocoa Farmer’s
Handbook
PNG Cocoa and Coconut Institute
Tavilo, East New Britain Province,
Papua New Guinea
2 PAPUA NEW GUINEA C OC OA FARMER’S HANDBOOK
Forward
This handbook summarises for farmers the important cocoa growing
knowledge and methods developed at the PNG Cocoa and Coconut Institute
and needed to greatly increase production of high quality cocoa in Papua New
Guinea.
Signed Photo
J. Moxon, C. Prior and R. Roe took the photos of insects and cocoa
beans used in previous CCI extension bulletins and posters. All other
photos by Philip Keane unless otherwise acknowledged.
Col Benton and Jane Belfield produced extension posters from which
some photos were taken, and Trevor Clarke compiled the first extension
booklet, ‘Torubat Wokim Bisnis Long Kakao’ (1981) that became
‘Joseph Grows Cocoa’, later revised as ‘Joseph and Lucy Grow Cocoa’
by Martin Powell, that guided the compilation of this handbook. Trevor
Clarke also compiled the ‘Field Pocket Book on Hybrid Cocoa’ (1987)
that is a forerunner of this Handbook. Arnold Parapi, Cocoa Board of
PNG, is thanked for commenting on drafts of the Handbook.
Publisher
NGIP-Agmark
P.O. Box 76, Kokopo, ENBP 611; Williams Road, Kokopo
Phone: (675) 982 9055
Email: gmcnally@agmark.com.pg
Farmset
P.O. Box 19, New Rabaul, ENBP; Kokopo;
Phone: (675) 982 8703
Email: rmngi@farmsetpng.com
Cocoa can be grown in most areas of the lowlands that have had rain-
forest or secondary forest or good gardens - it is often grown under co-
conuts or other garden trees; now CCIL has shown that it can be grown
in some highland valleys (Karamui) and replace kunai grasslands.
Fermented and dried cocoa beans are roasted and ground to make
chocolate - the demand for cocoa beans is growing as more people
around the world eat chocolate and so growing cocoa can be a good
business for farmers in PNG.
CCIL has produced new types of cocoa (below) that can give high
yields if managed well following the advice in this book – these have
come from crosses between Trinitario and Amazonian types.
This Hybrid Clone (CCI-B1) is one of the new cocoa varieties made available
by CCIL Photo Breeding Section CCIL
It has been pruned to maintain a small tree so that all pods are within
easy reach for spotting and removing all sick pods or for harvesting
healthy pods.
Smaller cocoa trees need less heavy work than large trees – in large
trees it is impossible to control pest and diseases and more work is
needed to harvest all healthy pods.
Cocoa tree kept small by planting a good small clone from CCIL and regular
pruning to shape the tree
Tall overgrown trees (above) are hard to manage and pods are hard to
find in order to find and remove sick pods and harvest healthy ones –
they need a lot of hard work.
In overgrown, over-shaded, neglected bush cocoa, pests and diseases
can destroy most of the pods.
Research at CCIL has shown how these problems can be managed so
that farmers can make a good living from cocoa despite the presence
of pests and diseases.
The new methods of growing smaller trees will make working on the
cocoa much easier.
Cocoa flower showing the male parts (stamens that produce pollen) and
female part (pistil that grows to form the pod after pollination) – the pollen is
carried to the pistil (often on flowers on other trees) by tiny insects known as
midges
Drawing from van Hall CJJ, 1932, Cacao, Macmillan, London
These are useful for farmers in new areas where it is difficult to take
budwood and clones and people don’t yet have the skill to make clones
from budwood or manage clones.
Seedlings are also easier to establish than clones because they grow
with a single trunk up to about 1.2 metres high and then produce about
5 main branches that bear the pods – an ideal structure for a cocoa
tree. Seedlings grow into a well-shaped tree with only a small amount
of pruning.
Hybrid Seed from CCIL will include seed from several different crosses
to ensure that a mixture of cocoa types is planted on a farm – this is
needed to give good pod set and reduce the damage done by pests or
diseases.
The Second Series has some resistance (tolerance) to Cocoa Pod Bor-
er which means the borer doesn’t invade them as much or do as much
damage as in a very susceptible clone.
However, the pods of these clones will still be destroyed by Cocoa Pod
Borer if they are not managed well.
The Hybrid Clones include types that grow into smaller trees or bigger
trees – these should not be mixed in block (a block should have all
small or all big clones).
The small clones need less pruning to produce a small tree.
The bigger clones should be grown if the soil is poor – if grown on
good soil they need more pruning to keep them small.
Small and big clones can give the same yield if managed well.
A farm should be planted with equal proportions of the 4 First Series
or 5 Second Series clones – the First and Second Series clones can be
mixed, as long as they are all Big or all Small clones.
Plant 2-4 rows of one clone and then plant 2-4 rows of another clone -
plant 5 or more different clones in a block.
Clones are better than the SG1 and SG2 hybrid seedlings because all
the trees of a particular clone (e.g. CC1-B1) are identical because they
have been grown from vegetative buds from the mother tree (see the
method of vegetative reproduction by budding and grafting below – 5d
and 5e).
Nursery with palm frond shade and plastic roof to reduce infection of young
plants by diseases that occur in moist conditions – water plants by hand in
the early morning so that the leaves dry out quickly by midday.
Seedlings for budding or grafting are grown from seed from any good
vigorous tree (e.g. SG2) – it is grown for 2 – 8 weeks before budding
depending on the type of budding.
Seeds should have the mucilage rubbed off with sawdust before being
planted on their side, about one knuckle deep, in black topsoil from the
bush (not too sandy, and not from cocoa groves with a lot of Black Pod
infection) in polybags.
A budwood garden has to be started 2-3 years before the clones are
required for planting in the field.
The budwood trees are tip pruned so that they produce a lot of branch-
es for harvesting as budwood sticks.
Budwood stick cut from a mother tree in a budwood garden – note that the
leaf blades have been cut off
Cutting bark with a bud and base of a petiole (a bud patch) from a budwood
stick ready for budding; the most important tool is a very sharp budding knife
Inserting bud patch into window cut in bark of juvenile seedling stem (left) and
mature seedling stem (right)
Tape is removed
after 12 – 17 days
and the bud begins
to grow
The clonal plants are ready for planting in the field after 2-3 months for
juvenile budding or 4 months for mature (or normal) budding.
The top (about 20 cm) is cut off a 2 – 4 month old seedling and a slit is
cut into the cut end; a wedge-shaped budwood stick is cut and inserted
into the slit.
When trees are cut back, usually more than one chupon will grow –
keep the strongest one nearest the ground for bud or top grafting and
cut out the rest; cut off the stump of the mother tree close to the graft-
ed chupon to stop regrowth from the old tree.
Gaps in the regenerated cocoa block can be in-filled with Hybrid Seed-
lings or Hybrid Clones in the same way as for planting a new block.
Don’t plant young cocoa under old, sick trees unless the old trees have
been cut back and cleaned up to remove sources of VSD and Phytoph-
thora.
Before being taken from the nursery for planting in the field, plants
must be ‘hardened off’ by being exposed to more sunlight; plants in
polybags should be watered in the morning before planting in the field.
To plant out, cut the bottom off the polybag, lower the bag into the
planting hole (40cm deep), surround with good soil and then slide the
bag up over the plant and tamp down the soil; budded clones should be
planted deep enough so that the soil covers most of the rootstock to
stop shoots growing from it.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA C OC OA FARMER’S HANDBOOK 35
Cocoa being established under old coconut palms with some extra Gliricidia
shade
Weed control around young plants is important after field planting – hand
weeding is best when cocoa is young
Pruning to shape the tree must be done repeatedly until the trees are
two years old, when the main lower pod-bearing branches will have
been formed.
Fertilising or Manuring to Establish Young Plants
Fertilising or manuring may be needed when young plants are being
established on old cocoa or food crop blocks where soil nutrients may
have been lost.
Fertiliser application will only be useful if the plants are well weeded -
otherwise weeds around young cocoa plants will take up the fertiliser
and grow faster.
Ring weed around young cocoa plants a month before applying fertilis-
er or compost or manure, and keep the weeds down after that.
Use of bag fertiliser (especially urea) on young plants must be carefully
controlled because it may cause the plants to grow too rapidly and give
long branches that have to be pruned off.
3 30g triple superphos- 15g urea or 30g triple su- 15g urea or
phate ammonium perphosphate ammonium
+ 15g urea or ammo- sulphate 30g + 15g urea or sulphate 30g
nium sulphate 30g ammonium
sulphate 30g
Shade Thinning
A higher density of shade is needed during establishment of a young
cocoa, but some shade trees can be killed by ring-barking or poisoning
to reduce shade as plantings mature.
Thinning is best done at the start of the wet season to reduce the initial
stress on the cocoa - there will be more cloud cover and soil water to
compensate for the increased exposure of the trees following shade
thinning.
• Thinning of shade trees (e.g. temporary shade) should be done
in stages, not all at once, allowing the cocoa to adjust to the new
conditions over time - if shade is removed too suddenly, cocoa may
suffer sun scorch or bark cracking.
• Thinning should be done in a regular pattern so that the whole co-
coa grove remains uniformly shaded and the trees can adapt slowly
to reduced shade.
• Removal of shade trees such as Gliricidia has to take into account
the occurrence of other valuable fruit, nut or palm trees that are de-
sired on the farm – these usually make heavy shade for cocoa.
• Thin and prune shade trees before pruning the cocoa – if cocoa
gets damaged by falling branches this can be corrected when the
cocoa is pruned.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA C OC OA FARMER’S HANDBOOK 39
The block maps below show ways in which temporary Gliricidia shade
trees can be removed at 2 - 4 years after planting a new block to leave
the right amount of permanent coconut or Gliricidia shade
G12
G12 G13
Breaks life
Improves flowering,
cycles
pod set and lowers
of CPB and
humidity
Phytophthora
To achieve this use secateurs to cut out any shoots that are beginning
to grow in the wrong places or beginning to dominate the growth of
other shoots and produce an unbalanced tree.
Cutting out
an unwanted
shoot growing
into the centre
of the tree
Cut out unwanted shoots when they are small and soft; don’t wait until
they are big and require hard work to cut.
• In the new way of growing the new Hybrid Clones, the most useful
tool should be a secateur or bow-saw, not a bush knife.
Cut out any shoots tending to grow higher than 3.5 metres to keep
trees small and pods within easy reach. Especially cut out any lead
branches that are dominating other branches; these often don’t pro-
duce many pods.
Cut out any branches tending to droop down to within 1.2 metres of the
ground to keep the under-canopy space open.
Cut out any branches that tend to grow across and interlock with other
branches on the same tree.
Cut out any branches that are not producing pods and allow a more
productive branch to grow in its place – this work may require a bow-
saw because the branches will be quite big by the time they are seen to
be unproductive.
Cut out any branches with VSD, Pink Disease or insect damage.
Well pruned
Gliricidia
shade trees
letting through
about 80% sunlight
to the cocoa
Cover compost heaps with soil or plastic sheet to prevent escape of Cocoa
Pod Borer or Phytophthora, and keep the compost moist which will speed up
composting
Extracted cocoa beans clumped together due to Cocoa Pod Borer infestation
of pods
Control
Encourage Crazy Ants and Kurukum Ants in cocoa.
Spray pods with synthetic pyrethroid (Karate or Decis) if heavy
infestation (if more than 10 live adults found per 100 trees) – see 12.
Adult (1.5cm long) and ‘C’-shaped larva (1.5cm long) and entry holes in cocoa
trunk often near branches; may allow entry of Phytophthora to cause Stem
Canker
Control
Hand pick adults, especially looking in the heat of the day, encourage
Crazy Ants, paint larval channels with a mixture of Chlorpyrifos, White
Oil and Ridomil (see 12).
Pantorhytes is more likely to be a problem under Leucaena shade than
Gliricidia shade.
Control
Reduce shade, clear weeds from trunk, paint larval channels with a
mixture of Chlorpyrifos, White Oil and Ridomil (see 12).
Control
Prune off affected branches 30cm below damage and bury in compost
trenches.
Control
Prune off stem 30cm below damage and
bury in compost trenches.
Grey weevils
Control
Make sure young cocoa is well shaded and well weeded by hand
pulling or with herbicides to kill roots on which larvae live; spray with
pyrethroid (Karate or Decis) insecticide if needed – see 12.
Control
Biological control by wasps and Crazy Ants; cut out branches 30cm
below damage and bury in compost trenches.
Control
Selective spraying with pyrethroid or other insecticide (Orthene 75 or
Septene 80) if serious – see 12.
Damage to young cocoa plants caused by Root Chafer larvae; larvae can kill
young plants; common in young cocoa planted on old food gardens
Control
Place 2g Chlorpyrifos (Suscon Blue – 6mg/granule) in the soil around
the roots when planting out.
Treatment – Scrape off the bark surface to reveal the extent of the
canker and paint with a solution of 2% metalaxyl plus mancozeb
(Ridomil Plus 72) or metalaxyl plus copper (Laxyl Copper) prepared by
mixing 200 grams of the ingredient in 10 litres of water.
In the 1960s VSD nearly destroyed the cocoa industry in Papua New
Guinea – it was saved by the selection of resistant types of cocoa that
survived the epidemic.
The planting of resistant types of cocoa is crucial for managing the
disease.
All current Hybrid Clones and Hybrid Seedlings have some (but not
complete) resistance to VSD.
Late symptoms of VSD – leaf fall, growth of axillary buds and eventual tip
death; the disease does not occur in Bougainville, New Ireland, Manus, the
Milne Bay islands, or the tip of West New Britain and the Bali Witu Islands
Photo Pathology Section CCIL
Spores of the VSD fungus are formed at night when the fungus is wet-
ted by afternoon rain, and are spread by wind. The disease is spread by
these wind-borne spores.
VSD infection is more common during long wet periods.
Management
• Plant Hybrid Clones or Seedlings that have some resis-
tance to VSD.
• Maintain a low open cocoa canopy and light shade to
speed up drying of the foliage after rain.
• Cut VSD infected branches from trees during regular
pruning rounds, especially just before the wet season
when the fungus mainly forms spores.
• Cut branches 30cm below symptoms on branches and
bury them in compost trenches.
Control
Cut branches off 30cm below symptoms and bury.
If on large branches, paint infection with Macrupax (see 12).
These fungi invade the roots and lower trunk and kill the whole tree –
death occurs suddenly with all leaves still attached.
Root Rot fungus forming crust or bracket-lie spore forming structures on base
of trunk Photos Pathology Section CCIL
Kurukum Ants on a
cocoa pod (often seen
under coconut shade) –
they will deter Mirids
Cherelle Wilt
Many cherelles die at an early stage of development and these should
all be removed regularly because some will contain Phytophthora.
Cocoa often has fewer insect problems when grown under the shade
of coconut palms that harbour Kurukum (Weaver) Ants – these chase
away some cocoa pests.
Gliricidia shade trees attract Crazy Ants and cocoa growers sometimes
leave them as part of mixed permanent shade for this purpose.
Coconut palms at the correct spacing (12m x 12m) provide ideal
sparse shade for cocoa and this will also reduce pest and disease
problems in the cocoa.
Infested pods removed every week from cocoa trees must be buried or com-
posted to kill Cocoa Pod Borer and Phytophthora; shallow trench on right is
dug between rows of cocoa and pods and other organic waste are buried un-
der 10cm depth of soil and tamped down – this not only breaks the life-cycles
of the pests but also manures the cocoa.
Contact
Contact, systemic
Bifenthrin Synthetic pyrethroid Grey weevils, and Tank mix
other pests as for
Contact Decis and Karate
Rogor Dimethoate Pansepta Web Tank mix 70ml Rogor
30EC (Organophosphate) Worm (0.6% a.i.)
Absorbed through 330g a.i./ha
skin
Highly toxic
Contact,
systemic
Actellic Pirimiphos-methyl Caterpillars Tank mix 60ml
(Organophosphate) Actellic
Highly toxic 330g a.i./ha
Contact
• Wash your hands and face with soap and water after
spraying chemicals.
• Always change your clothes and wash them with soap and
water after spraying chemicals.
Cocoa Pod Borer forming a pupa on a ripe pod – if left in the canopy the adult
moth can hatch out and infest more pods
Different tools should be used to harvest sick and healthy pods or else
tools have to be washed thoroughly after cutting out Black Pod – tools
can spread the fungus.
Sick or healthy ripe pods must be cut off the branches using a sharp
tool – a secateur is best or a sharp pod hook on a stick. Pods should
never be ripped off the branches by hand as this will damage the flower
cushion that contains the flower buds needed to produce the future
pods. Care must be taken not to damage the flower cushion with cut-
ting tools. Flower cushions must be treated as very precious because
their health determines the future crop.
It you are selling wet beans, the pods should be harvested on the
morning they are picked up for delivery to the fermentary.
Exposed heap of pod husks likely to spread Cocoa Pod Borer and
Phytophthora - these should be buried in compost trenches (see 11)14:
Fermenting Cocoa Beans
Fermentation mass covered with clean hessian bags to keep the heat in (fer-
mentation is just beginning – the mass is still white)
However, in many places in Papua New Guinea it is too wet during the
main harvest season for simple passive sun drying to be rapid enough
to give good quality cocoa beans.
94 PAPUA NEW GUINEA C OC OA FARMER’S HANDBOOK
A wood-fired kiln drier on the design shown below has been developed
in Papua New Guinea to speed up the sun drying of cocoa beans.
• A steel kiln pipe is built under a metal mesh drying rack on
which the beans are spread about 5cm deep.
• A roof can be rolled off to expose the beans for sun drying when
the weather is dry.
• During wet weather the roof is rolled over the drying rack and
wood in the kiln is lit to provide heat to continue drying the
beans.
The kiln pipes tend to rust and develop holes over time, and this allows
smoke to pass up through the beans and give them a smoke taint that
has reduced the demand for Papua New Guinea cocoa beans in the
world market. Also fragments tend to fall down from the drying rack
and burn on the kiln pipe, creating smoke.
Therefore kiln pipes must be cleaned and inspected regularly for holes
and replaced as soon as holes are seen and smoke starts to go up
through the beans.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA C OC OA FARMER’S HANDBOOK 95
The passive sun drying/kiln drying unit that is common in Papua New Guinea
(this one has two kiln pipes)
• The left hand photo shows the chimney designed to carry smoke away
for the drying rack
• The right hand photo shows the kiln pipes in which wood is burned to
provide heat to dry the beans
• The roof is covering the cocoa drying rack
In an attempt to provide more solar drying of cocoa, CCIL has devel-
oped an active solar/wood-fired kiln combination drier as shown in the
photo below
of beans (2cm deep) is placed on the drying rack and the beans are
raked every half hour until they are sticky dry and air can pass through
the bean layer. If the drier is placed near the family home women and
youth can supervise this.
If drying is slow during wet weather, the beans can be turned into a
kiln drier; using a simple solar drier in conjunction with a kiln drier will
prolong the life of the kiln pipes.
Bits of broken beans and loose nibs can be bagged separately for sale
as ‘nibs’ – they will bring a lower price than good quality whole beans.
Beans must be bagged in new, clean hessian sacks marked as shown
in the photo.
• Each bag must weight 63.5kg (62.5kg beans + 1kg weight of bag);
16 bags make 1 metric tonne.
• Old copra sacks must not be used or these will taint the beans and
lower their quality.
Bags are sewn up with twine so that beans can’t escape and must be
stored in a clean dry place away from vermin and contaminating chem-
icals such as diesel and pesticides.
It is illegal to sell beans to anyone but an exporter licensed by the Co-
coa Board of PNG.
‘Slaty’ (unfermented)
Cut surface is slaty grey
Interior of shell remains
off-white
Flavour undesirable
Photo CCIL
Mouldy
Internal mould visi-
ble to naked eye
Over-fermented
Caused by insuffi- Results from too long
cient drying, storing fermentation or too slow
in a damp place or drying
allowing dry beans
External surface of beans
to get wet
dark brown or almost
Photo CCIL black
Cut surface dull dark
brown
Flavour objectionable
Photo CCIL