DWD Free Pattern #13 – Easy Turtleneck Pullover (Jumper)

(MSD Size)
Here is a simple and easy sweater I designed for those who have never tried knitting for dolls or
for those that prefer larger needles and fingering weight yarn. Sized for mid range size ball-
jointed dolls, such as Iplehouse JID, Volks MSD, Soul Kids, Unoa, Narae, Dollstown, Kaye
Wiggs, and Dollmore’s Alexia and vinyl dolls such as Tonner’s 17-inch dolls like Nancy Drew
and Hermoine Granger. Works best on “thicker body” bjds. Easy design with a simple rib, it is
finished off with a deep turtleneck collar. Knits up quite fast and is a great design for beginners.
Simulates using a chunky yarn for a human size garment.

Rating: #1 – Easy. You need to be able to read instructions and be able to increase and
decrease stitches. Sweater uses fingering weight yarn on size One (2.5 mm) needles with a
gauge of 9 stitches per inch and 12 rows per inch. Solid color of yarn is recommend.

DollsWest Designs
Cynthia Berrier
532 Crestview Road
Kalispell, MT 59901
dollswest@centurytel.net

© 2011 DollsWest Designs

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 Easy Turtleneck Pullover (Jumper) for MSD Size Doll

Yarn: 100% Merino Wool by Knit Picks Peruvian Palette (Fingering weight) from
www.knitpicks.com or any other yarn that yields same gauge. Model is wearing “Lilac”

Gauge: 9 stitches per inch, 12 rows per inch on size One (2.5 mm) needles

SAVE TME BY TAKING TIME TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE!

Read through pattern BEFORE you begin!

Stitch Glossary:
K - Knit
K2tog - Knit 2 sts together (reduces one stitch count)
KFB - Knit 1 in front and back of stitch (increases one stitch)
P – Purl
RS - Right Side
SSK - Slip, Slip, Knit OR slip 2 stitches one at a time, knit 2 slipped stitches together
Stockinette Stitch – Knit on right side, Purl on wrong side of garment
WS - Wrong Side

Body Front:
Cast on 35 sts on size One (2.5 mm) needles
Work ribbing as follows:
Row 1: (RS) [K1, P1]* Repeat to last stitch, K1
Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1]* Repeat to last stitch, P1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: (RS) Begin stockinette stitch pattern, K all sts.
Row 10: (WS) P all sts
Work even through row 40
Row 41: (RS) Mark the first and last stitch of this row with a piece of yarn. This is the
placement for your sleeves. I loosely tied another color of yarn in a slipknot. K all sts
Row 42: (WS) P
Rows 43 through row 48: Work even in stockinette stitch
Row 49: (RS) K all sts
Row 50: (WS) P14, place 7 sts on one stitch holder (safety pin) and last 14 sts on another stitch
holder or spare needle

You will now be working on just the Right Side of the Body Front.
Row 51: (RS) SSK, K to end (13 sts)
Row 52: (WS) P
Rows 53 through row 58: Repeat rows 51 and 52. Stitch count on row 58 = 10 sts
Place these 10 sts on a stitch holder (safety pin)

You will now be working on just the Left Side of the Body Front.
Row 50: (WS) Attach yarn to wrong side and Purl 14 sts
Row 51: (RS) K to last 2 sts, K2tog (13 sts)
Row 52: (WS) P
© 2011 DollsWest Designs

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Rows 53 through row 58: Repeat rows 51 and 52. Stitch count on row 58 = 10 sts
Place these 10 sts on a stitch holder (safety pin)

Body Back: Cast on 35 sts on size One (2.5 mm) needles

Row 1: (RS) [K1, P1]* Repeat to last stitch, K1
Row 2: (WS) [P1, K1]* Repeat to last stitch, P1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: (RS) Begin stockinette stitch pattern, K all sts.
Row 10: (WS) P all sts
Work even through row 22
Row 23: (RS) K17 sts, place the other 18 sts on stitch holder or spare needle
You will now be working on just the Right Side of the Body Back.
After knitting the 17 sts and placing the other 18 sts on hold, you will be casting on 3 stitches for
the back placket. Use the cable cast on or in-between cast on method (20 sts)

NOTE: I found that if I now worked a double garter stitch edge at the beginning and end of
each row for the rest of the right side of the body that the placket laid down flatter and smoother.
I will give the instructions here if you wish to work it. Start on Row 24, if you wish to use this
method. It will NOT be mentioned on every row.
Double Garter Stitch Edge: On every row, slip the first stitch knit wise, knit the second
stitch, and then work to the end of the row, knitting the last two stitches.

Row 24: (WS) P

Work even through row 40
Row 41: (RS) Mark the first stitch of this row with a piece of yarn. This is the placement for
your sleeves. I loosely tied another color of yarn in a slipknot. K all sts
Row 42: (WS) P
Continue to work even in stockinette stitch through row 58
Place 10 sts on one stitch holder for your shoulder and the rest of the sts (10) on another holder
for your neckline.

You will now be working on just the Left Side of the Body Back.
Row 23: (RS) Attach yarn on right side of the left side of the body back, K18
Row 24: (WS) P
Work even through row 40
Row 41: (RS) Mark the last stitch of this row with a piece of yarn. This is the placement for
your sleeves. I loosely tied another color of yarn in a slipknot. K all sts
Row 42: (WS) P
Continue to work even in stockinette stitch through row 58
Place 10 sts on one stitch holder for your shoulder and the rest of the sts (8) on another
holder for your neckline.

While the body front and back pieces are flat, steam and block. Do NOT stretch out your ribbing
on the bottom. Let it stay tight. Let pieces dry thoroughly

© 2011 DollsWest Designs

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Graft the shoulder seams using the Kitchener stitch. For a great video on “YouTube”, copy this
site into your browser:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7jIzwO5Nv4

Neckline – Turtleneck Collar

Place the 8 stitches from your left back onto your working needle (size 1), pick up 10 stitches
from your left front neck edge, place your 7 stitches from holder for the front onto the working
needle, pick up 10 stitches from your right front neck edge and finally, place your 10 stitches
from the back right onto working needle (45 sts)

Row count begins again. The right side of your body is the WRONG side of the collar.
Work ribbing as follows:
Row 1: (WS) [P1, K1]* Repeat to last stitch, P1
Row 2: (RS) [K1, P1]* Repeat to last stitch, K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 21 rows.
Row 22: (RS) Bind off loosely in pattern

At this point I blocked the collar. Pin up the back like it would when it is snapped closed. Pin
sweater on your board. Turn the collar down a little more than half of the total length. Keep the
top part tight. Stretch out the bottom edge and pin down, making a nice curved edge. Steam and
let dry thoroughly. (See photo on last page for reference.)

Sleeves: Work each sleeve separately as follows:

Pick up 29 sts from your stitch in front with the yarn marker to the yarn marker on your back.
Row 1: (RS) K all sts
Row 2: (WS) P all sts
Work even in stockinette through row 20
Row 21: (RS) K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 (27 sts)
Row 22: (WS) P
Work even in stockinette through row 36
Row 37: (RS) K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1 (25 sts)
Row 38: (WS) P
Continue to work even in stockinette through row 46***
***For Dollstown 7-year body, Dollmore’s Alexia and Iplehouse JID, work through row 48.
Your ribbing will begin on row 49. Your cast off row will be on row 55. Or adjust sleeve length
to your own preference. It is up to you. For Kaye Wiggs MSD dolls, I would suggest you add 4
rows, working through row 50, beginning your rib work on row 51.

Begin your rib pattern and work as follows:

Row 47: (RS) [K1, P2]* Repeat to last stitch, K1
Row 48: (WS) [P1, K1]* Repeat to last stitch, P1
Rows 49 through row 52: Repeat rows 45 and 46
Row 53: (RS) Bind off in pattern
Repeat for second sleeve.

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Finishing Up:

Sew up side seams and underarm seams. Weave in all yarn ends. Sew on 6 snaps on the back
opening. You may wish to hand sew on a piece of silk tape if you did not work the double stitch
garter edge. This will help keep the back and placket flat. However, it is optional. I tacked
down the turtleneck collar and used 2 snaps on it to keep it in place.

Steam and dry sweater, and once again, do NOT stretch out ribbing. Let it stay tight. Let dry
thoroughly.

Additional Note: Although the length of the sweater is fine for Kaye Wiggs MSD dolls, you
might wish to add from 2 to 4 rows the the body. You can either work more ribbing rows or
stockinette stitches, but do it BEFORE you mark for your sleeves. The sleeve section is fine.

© 2011 DollsWest Designs

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I block all my sweaters on my counter top in the laundry room. I use a portable ironing pad I
purchased from Joann’s. It has a nice cushy pad. On top I fold a white terry towel in half. I
place my sweater on the towel and stick my pins straight down into the sweater. I use a good
steam iron on the “wool” setting and hover above about 1 inch. I push my “steam” button on my
iron for a few bursts of steam. I lightly “press” with my fingers to make sure it is even and
smooth. Then I let the garment dry a few hours or overnight.

© 2011 DollsWest Designs

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 Abbreviations

Beg Beginning
B/O Bind off (cast off sts)
C4F Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at front of work, K2, K2 from cn
C4B Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold at back of work, K2, K2 from cn
CC Contrast Color
CN Cable needle
C/O Cast on
Cont Continue
Dc Double crochet
Dec Decrease
DPN(s) Double pointed needle(s)
Foll Following
Inc Increase
KFB Knit 1 in front and back of stitch
K2tog Knit 2 together
K3tog Knit 3 together
M1 Make one
M1P Make one Purl
MC Main Color
P Purl
P2tog Purl 2 together
PFB Purl1 in front and back of stitch
PM Place Marker
PSSO Pass slipped stitch over
Rem Remaining
Rep Repeat
RS Right Side
Sc Single crochet
Sl slip
SKP Slip, Knit, Pass
SK2P Slip 1, Knit 2 together, Pass slipped stitch over
SSK Slip, Slip, Knit OR slip 2 stitches one at a time, knit 2 slipped stitches together
St(s) Stitch(es)
St st Stockinette stitch
WS Wrong side
WYIB With yarn in back
WYIF With yarn in front
Yfwd Yarn forward, or to the front, knit next stitch
YO Yarn Over
NEEDLE SIZE
US Size 5/0 4/0 3/0 2/0 0 1 2
Metric size 1mm 1.2mm 1.5mm 1.75mm 2mm 2.5mm 3 mm

© 2014 DollsWest Designs

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 RULES TO KNIT BY

For successful doll knitting, I have found the following “Rules to Knit By” work
every time to produce successful results.

1. Make a swatch and check your gauge. I knit up my swatch

and let it “rest” over night. This way the yarn has a chance
to relax and be more accurate. Also, and even more
important, check your gauge (tension) while you are
knitting. Keep an even tension and correct it early to avoid
wasting hours of knitting only to have a sweater that does
not quite fit!

2. Read through the instructions first, before you begin.

Check all the terms and abbreviations used to make sure
you understand how the garment is to be made. If there is a
new technique in the pattern, practice it first on a scrap
piece before you attempt it on your garment.

3. For doll knitting, I found knitting only with natural yarns

work the best. I prefer wool, silk, alpaca or blends of these
yarns. I do not like to waste my time on inferior yarns. I
do not recommend “sock yarn” for any of my patterns.

4. Steam and block your sweater! This is like “pressing”

when you sew. I do it several times while knitting. This
insures a wonderful finished product that looks
professional.
© 2014 DollsWest Designs