Scribd
Upload
166 views2 pages

Walking Skirt Instructions

This document provides instructions for drafting and constructing a gored walking skirt with five gores. It includes details on measuring, drafting the pattern pieces, making a mockup, adding pockets and a placket, fitting the waist and hips, adding a waistband, and hemming. The instructions are broken into 9 steps and include diagrams to illustrate drafting the pattern pieces.

Uploaded by

Mollie
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
166 views2 pages

Walking Skirt Instructions

This document provides instructions for drafting and constructing a gored walking skirt with five gores. It includes details on measuring, drafting the pattern pieces, making a mockup, adding pockets and a placket, fitting the waist and hips, adding a waistband, and hemming. The instructions are broken into 9 steps and include diagrams to illustrate drafting the pattern pieces.

Uploaded by

Mollie
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 2

How to draft a gored walking skirt to your measurements:

This skirt should reach to near the ankle. Measure the length you want at front, sides and back. It's best
to measure over the undergarments and shoes you plan on wearing, for example a corset, petticoat, and
hip pad. These instructions are for a five gore skirt. Seam allowance is not included. You can line this
skirt or not. To line, cut out the pattern with your lining material as well as your fashion fabric and flat
line. Pockets can be added to the side seams. Seam finishes are up to you: French seams, zigzag,
overcast, pinked.

Starting Measurements:

Front Length
Side Length
Back Length
Waist
Hips
Bottom Width of Skirt

AC = ¼ inch.
AB = 1/8 waist measure.
CD = Front length of skirt.
DE = Twice CB.
BE = Front length of skirt.
FG and KL = ½ inch.
FH and KM = ¼ waist measure.
GI = Front length.
HJ and LN = Side length.
MO = Back length.
IJ and NO = Twice FH and KM

1. After drafting your pattern pieces, make a mockup or toile of your skirt out of inexpensive fabric. I
use poly broadcloth for mockups a lot because it's really cheap, like 10 yards for less than $20
sometimes. Also, if you're not set on historical accuracy, often you can re-purpose a mockup as a
petticoat.

2. Cut out your mockup – making sure to add the amount of seam allowance and hem length you
prefer. I use ¼ inch seam allowance. For the hem, 3-5 inches is a good hem width because you want
some stability at the hem so it hangs and moves correctly. Depending on your fabric, you may want to
add horsehair or interfacing to your hem. You can just add 3 inches to your skirt length and fold it up,
but that will require a lot of easing because the hem has a wider circumference than three inches up the
skirt. I prefer to make a hem facing by tracing out a pattern of the bottom three inches of each skirt gore
piece. Cut these out in addition to your skirt gores. If you've never done a hem facing, definitely
include these pieces in your mockup.

3. Sew your mockup together. Leave an 8 inch opening at the top of the back seam for closure. If you
choose to add a pocket, leave the seam you want the pocket to go in open for now. For example, I put
my pocket in the side back seam, so I didn't sew it closed when I sewed the rest of the seams,
4. To add a pocket, make marks on the open seams where you want the pocket to start, a few inches
below the waist. Mark the seam allowance on the pocket pieces and make sure you don't sew past the
marks. Pin the pocket pieces to skirt seams right sides together, matching marks. For example, I sewed
one pocket piece to the side back edge of the side gore and one pocket piece to the side back edge of
the back gore. Sew your pocket pieces to the skirt seams. Next, line up the skirt seams and pin together
making sure to mark where the pocket begins and ends so you don't sew the pocket opening closed.
Keep the pocket out of the way of the seam. Sew from the waist to the mark at the start of the pocket.
Now sew from the mark at the bottom of the pocket to the bottom of the skirt. Close the pocket by
sewing around the edge of the pocket. Finish the seam how you would like.

5. To make a placket, on a fold, cut a rectangle that is the length of your skirt opening plus seam
allowance and 2 inches wide. This will be the left side placket. Sew the bottom edge, right sides
together, trim, and turn out. Pin the placket to the left center back opening right sides together. Sew it
on and zig-zag the raw edge, or finish how you desire. For the right side opening, cut a strip of fabric 1
½ inches wide and the length of your opening plus seam allowance. Pin and sew to the right side center
back opening right sides together. Fold edge toward the inside of the skirt and fold over the raw edge,
pinning in place. Sew the folded edge to the inside of the skirt with a whip stitch.

6. To fit the waist and hips, pin and sew darts in the center of the side gores, between the seams and
pleat the excess fabric in the back. You could alternatively pin darts in the side front and side back
seams if you don't want any pleats in the back. I prefer the dart in the center of the side gore because it
makes adding pockets easier for me and I like the look of pleats in the back of the skirt. Baste any
pleats before adding the waistband.

7. There is no waistband pattern, cut out a 3 inch wide by your waist measurement long plus and inch
on each end for overlap. You may need to use interfacing, depending on the weight and type of fabric.
Sew the waistband to the skirt right sides together. Iron the seam allowance towards the waistband. Iron
the seam allowance at the top of the waistband to the inside, towards the skirt. Fold it over the raw
edges of the skirt and whip stitch it to the inside.

8. To hem, sew the hem facing pieces together. Next pin the hem facing to the bottom edge of the skirt,
right sides together. Sew around the entire hem. Trim the seam allowance, iron under the top of the
facing and fold and iron the facing to the inside. Sew with a hem stitch. If you line your skirt, sew the
facing to the lining.

9. When you are happy with the fit and look, repeat the steps with your fashion fabric!

I found inspiration at

http://www.tudorlinks.com

I made my own tweaks and ended up with the pattern I used today.

You might also like

pFad - Phonifier reborn

Pfad - The Proxy pFad of © 2024 Garber Painting. All rights reserved.

Note: This service is not intended for secure transactions such as banking, social media, email, or purchasing. Use at your own risk. We assume no liability whatsoever for broken pages.


Alternative Proxies:

Alternative Proxy

pFad Proxy

pFad v3 Proxy

pFad v4 Proxy