Jewellery

Student workbook

2
 RINGS

9 The Anatomy of a Ring

10 Shank Styles

11 Ring Profiles

12 Ring Styles

14 Bridal Sets

15 Ring Size Reference

16 Prong Styles

17 Setting Styles
THE ANATOMY OF A RING

Head

Gallery
Center Stone
Side Stone
Prong

Shoulder

RINGS | The Anatomy of a Ring

Gallery
Accent Stone
Rail/Bearing
Bridge

Shank
Hallmark/Engraving

Sizing Area

Top/Looking Down View Through Finger View Side View

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SHANK STYLES

Traditional Euro-Style

Straight Tapered Reverse Tapered

Pinched Flair Bypass

Split Freeform

Cathedral

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RING PROFILES

Outside

Shank Profile Height/

Thickness

RINGS | Shank Styles and Ring Profiles

Width
Inside

OOUTSIDE PROFILESO

Flat Half-Round Knife-Edge Half-Round Edge

OINSIDE PROFILESO

Light Comfort-Fit Comfort-Fit Heavy Comfort-Fit Scooped

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RING STYLES

Fashion

Halo 3-Stone

Promise

Semi-Mount Award/Signet

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 Engagement

RINGS | Ring Styles

Solitaire Bridal Set
(Engagement Ring and Wedding Band )

Wedding Band

Anniversary Band Eternity Band

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BRIDAL SETS

SHADOW BAND/NOTCHED BAND

A shadow band is masterfully crafted to shadow the
engagement ring. The band is customized to perfectly
accent the engagement ring so that no gap can be
seen.

STR AIGHT BAND

A straight band is designed to complement and sit next to the engagement ring. One advantage
of a straight band is that it can be worn independently from the engagement ring. A straight band
can fit flush against the engagement ring. However, if the engagement ring has a center setting
that prevents the band from sitting flush, a gap can be seen between the ring and band.

Straight Flush Straight With Gap

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RING SIZE REFERENCE

Option 1:

• Place your ring over the circles, matching the inside edge
Inside
of the ring to the nearest in size.
Diameter
• If the ring falls between two sizes, select the larger size.

Size 3 Size 3 1⁄2 Size 4 Size 4 1⁄2 Size 5 Size 5 1⁄2 Size 6
14mm 14.4mm 14.8mm 15.2mm 15.6mm 16mm 16.45mm

RINGS | Bridal Sets and Ring Size Reference

Size 6 1⁄2 Size 7 Size 71⁄2 Size 8 Size 8 1⁄2 Size 9
16.9mm 17.3mm 17.7mm 18.2mm 18.6mm 19mm

Size 9 1⁄2 Size 10 Size 10 1⁄2 Size 11 Size 111⁄2

19.4mm 19.8mm 20.2mm 20.6mm 21mm

Size 12 Size 12 1⁄2 Size 13 Size 13 1⁄2

21.4mm 21.8mm 22.2mm 22.6mm

Option 2:

• Copy this page.

• Cut out the ring size chart and then cut a slit for slot “A”.
• Wrap the ring size chart around your finger with the numbers facing outward.
• Insert “B” through slot “A” until it fits snugly around the finger where the ring will be worn.
• The number aligned along the slit is your ring size. If the measurement occurs between
two numbers, your size is a half size. For example, if it falls between 7 and 8 then your
ring size is 71⁄2.

31⁄2 inches

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PRONG STYLES

OPRONG TYPESO

Single Double Triple

V-Prong/Chevron Decorative Double

OPRONG COUNTO

Four (Standard) Six Two (Vertical)

Four (Diagonal) Eight Two (Horizontal)

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SETTING STYLES

Basket Peg Head Decorative

RINGS | Prong Styles and Setting Styles

Bezel Half-Bezel Bar/Channel

Bright-Cut Bridge Accent Illusion

Channel Trellis

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SETTING STYLES

Channel Bead and Bright-Cut/Pinpoint

Surface Prong

Shared Prong Bar

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Scallop Fishtail

RINGS | Setting Styles

Pavé

Bezel Gypsy/Flush

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 EARRINGS

23 Earring Styles

25 Earring Components
EARRING STYLES

Stud

EARRINGS | Earring Styles

Cluster Jackets (with studs)

Drop Dangle

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EARRING STYLES

Chandelier

Hoops Hinged/Huggie

Ear Trim

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EARRING COMPONENTS

Friction Post/Tension Back Friction Post/Clutch Back

EARRINGS | Earring Styles and Earring Components

Threaded Post/Threaded Back Protektor™ Post/Back

Omega Clip Clip On Lever Back

Hinged Earwire Earwire/Shepherds Hook

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 NECKWEAR

29 Neckwear Styles

30 Bail Styles

31 Pendant Styles

32 Chain Styles

34 Clasp Assembly

35 Clasp Styles
NECKWEAR STYLES

NECKWEAR | Neckwear Styles

Riviera

Chain Pendant

Station Lariat

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NECKWEAR STYLES

Collar

Choker

OBAIL STYLES O

Standard Rabbit Ear Decorative

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PENDANT STYLES

NECKWEAR | Neckwear Styles, Bail Styles and Pendant Styles

Pendant with Bail Solitaire

Slide Hidden Bail

Locket Roundel/Rondelle

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CHAIN STYLES

Anchor

Byzantine

Bead/Ball

Box

Cable

Cascade

Cocoon

Curb

Figaro

Foxtail

Herringbone

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 Leather Cord

Omega

Popcorn

Rolo

NECKWEAR | Chain Styles

Rope

Serpentine

Snake

Snake with Bead

Singapore

Spiral

Wheat/Palma

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CLASP ASSEMBLY

Chain Ends Chain Tags

Clasps Jump Rings

14”
16”
18”

20”

24”

30”

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CLASP STYLES

Spring Ring Lobster Claw Bayonet

NECKWEAR | Clasp Assembly and Clasp Styles

Barrel Open Box Figure 8 Safety

Toggle S-Hook Mystery

Magnetic Pearl Bracelet Catch

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 OTHER TYPES OF JEWELRY

39 Men's

39 Brooches/Pins

40 Bracelet Assembly

41 Bracelet Styles
MEN'S

OTHER TYPES OF JEWELRY | Men's, Pins, and Brooches

Cuff Links Tie Tack

Money Clip

OBROOCH AND LAPEL PINO

Lapel Pin Brooch

Pin Assembly
(Also known as stem and catch, or pinch and joint)

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BRACELET ASSEMBLY

Charm

Bracelet Slide

Beads

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 OTHER TYPES OF JEWELRY | Bracelet Assembly and Bracelet Styles

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Link

Bangle
Cuff
BRACELET STYLES

Line/Tennis
 DIA MONDS A ND GEMSTONES

45 The Anatomy of a Diamond

45 Ideal Cut

46 The 4 Cs

48 Stone Shapes

50 Stone Cuts

52 Diamond Size Chart

THE ANATOMY OF A DIAMOND

Diameter Table

Crown

DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | The Anatomy of a Diamond

Girdle

Depth

Pavilion

Culet

OAMERICAN GEMOLOGICAL SOCIETY (AGS ®)O

IDEAL CUT

100%

52.4% - 57.5%

33.7° - 35.8° 14.2% - 16.2%

42.2% - 43.8%

Culet 98.5°

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THE 4 Cs

OGEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA®)O

DIAMOND GRADING

C OLOR
One factor that determines the value of a diamond is its color. With the exception of fancy-colored
diamonds, the most valuable diamonds are those with the least color. Although many people think of
gem quality diamonds as colorless, completely colorless diamonds are very rare. The diamond color
scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). A diamond's color is determined by a manual
process of comparing the diamond to a master set. Each letter grade represents a range of color and is
a measurement of how noticeable a color is.

When diamonds are formed with traces of other minerals, rare and beautiful colors can result. These
“fancy” colors range from blue and brilliant yellow to red, brown, pale green, pink, and violet. Because
of their rarity, colored diamonds are highly desirable and typically more valuable.

Color Grading Scale

D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z+
nearly faint
colorless very light yellow light yellow fancy
colorless yellow

C L ARIT Y
A diamond’s clarity is measured by the existence or absence of visible flaws. Tiny surface blemishes
or internal inclusions, even those seen only under magnification, can alter the brilliance of the diamond
and thus affect its value. Clarity levels begin with flawless (FL, IF), followed by very, very slight
(VVS1, VVS2), very slight (VS1, VS2), slightly included (SI1, SI2), and included (I1, I2, and I3).

Clarity Grading Scale

FL VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI 2 I1 I2 I3
flawless very, very very slightly slightly imperfect,
no blemishes slightly included included included eye visible

| visible under magnification only | | eye visible |

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C UT
While cut does include shape, in terms of the 4 Cs it refers to the proportions of the cut.
A diamond’s cut grade is an objective measure of a diamond’s light performance, or the amount of
sparkle a diamond has.

A diamond’s overall proportions, as well as the size and position of its facets, make up the cut. The
consistency and balance of these can greatly affect how the stone captures light and reflects it
back to the eye. When a diamond is cut with the proper proportions, light enters the diamond and

DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | The 4 Cs

is returned through the top of the diamond. If a diamond is too shallow, light will escape from the
bottom of the stone. If it is cut too deep, light will escape out the sides.

Studies have been conducted to find the optimum proportions of a diamond’s cut so that it has the
greatest amount of sparkle. If its cut falls within these parameters, it is considered an ideal cut.
Diamonds with fine proportions, symmetry and polish optimize their interaction with light and have
increased brilliance, dispersion, and scintillation.

shallow ideal deep

C AR AT
Carat refers to a diamond's weight. One carat, the traditional unit of measurement for diamonds, is
approximately 0.2 grams. You may also hear the weight of a diamond referred to in points. One carat
is equivalent to 100 points, so a 75-point diamond is equal to 0.75 carats. Because they are rarer,
larger diamonds have greater value per carat, so the price of a diamond rises exponentially to its
size. (Refer to diamond size chart, page 52).

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STONE SHAPES

Round Oval

Cushion Square Cushion

Pear Marquise

Square/Princess Octagonal

Asscher/Square Emerald Emerald

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 Radiant Square Radiant

DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | Stone Shapes

Heart Trilliant/Trillion

Shield/Calf Half-Moon

Straight Baguette Tapered Baguette

Trapezoid

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STONE CUTS

Side Crown Pavilion

Brilliant

Side Crown Pavilion

Old European

Side Crown Pavilion

Old Mine

Side Crown Pavilion

Checkerboard

Crown Crown

Table Point

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 Side Crown Pavilion

Step

DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | Stone Cuts

Side Crown Pavilion

Eight

Side Crown Pavilion

Old Single

Crown Crown

Rose Briolette

Crown Crown

Cabochon Bullet

Master gem cutters, mathematicians, scientists, and jewelers have been developing unique and
proprietary cuts to draw the beauty out of gemstone material. Some gem cuts are created to
maximize the sparkle, while other gem cuts are created to draw the viewer into the gemstone.

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DIAMOND SIZE CHART

Diamonds illustrated to scale

carat weight 1
⁄4 1
⁄2 3
⁄4 1.00 11⁄4 11⁄2 13⁄4 2.00 21⁄4 2
ROUND
10
5
mm: 4.1 5.2 5.9 6.5 7.0 7.4 7.8 8.2 8.6 8
SQUARE

10
5
mm: 3.0 4.35 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 7.75 8
10
OVAL

5
mm: 5x3 6x4 6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 8x6 8.25x6.25 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x
15
MARQUISE

10
5
mm: 6x3 8x4 9x4.5 10x5 10.5x5.25 11x5.5 11.5x5.75 12x6 12.5x6.25 13x
15
PEAR

10
5
mm: 5x3 6x4 7x5 8x5 8.5x5.5 9x6 9.5x6.5 10x7 10.5x7.25 11x
TRILLIANT RADIANT ASSCHER EMERALD CUSHION

10
5
mm: 3.4 4.35 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 7.75 8

10
5
mm: 5x3 6x4 6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 8x6 8.25x6.25 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x

10
5
mm: 3.4 4.35 4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 7.75 8

10
5
mm: 3.9 4.9 5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 7.4 7.8 8.1 8.

10
5
mm: 4.0 5.0 5.75 6.5 6.75 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.25 8
HEART

3.9 4.9 5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 7.4 7.8 8.1 8.

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 Diamonds illustrated to scale
3
⁄4 1.00 11⁄4 11⁄2
carat weight 113⁄4⁄4 2.00
1
⁄2 231⁄4⁄4 1.00
21⁄2 1213⁄4 3.00
11⁄2 4.00
13⁄4 2.00 21⁄4 21⁄2
ROUND

10
5
5.9 6.5 7.0 7.4
mm: 4.1
7.8 5.2
8.2 5.9
8.6 6.5
8.8 7.0
9.1 7.4
9.4 10.4
7.8 8.2 8.6 8.8
SQUARE

10
5
4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5
mm: 3.0
7.0 4.35
7.5 4.95
7.75 5.5
8.0 8.15
6.0 6.5
8.3 7.0
9.0 7.5 7.75 8.0

DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES | Diamond Size Chart

10
OVAL

5
6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 mm: 8.25x6.25
8x6 5x3 8.5x6.5
6x4 8.75x6.75
6.5x4.5 7x5
9x7 7.5x5.5
9.5x7.5 10x8
8x6 8.25x6.25
11x9 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x7
15
MARQUISE

10
5
9x4.5 10x5 10.5x5.25 mm: 11.5x5.75
11x5.5 6x3 12x6
8x4 12.5x6.25
9x4.5 13x6.5
10x5 10.5x5.25
13.5x6.75 11x5.5
14x7 11.5x5.75
16x8 12x6 12.5x6.25 13x6.5
15
PEAR

10
5
7x5 8x5 8.5x5.5 9x6
mm: 9.5x6.5
5x3 10x7
6x4 10.5x7.25
7x5 11x7.5
8x5 11.5x7.75
8.5x5.5 12x8
9x6 9.5x6.5
14x9 10x7 10.5x7.25 11x7.5
TRILLIANT RADIANT ASSCHER EMERALD CUSHION

10
5
4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5
mm: 3.4
7.0 4.35
7.5 4.95
7.75 5.5
8.0 8.15
6.0 6.5
8.3 7.0
9.0 7.5 7.75 8.0

10
5
6.5x4.5 7x5 7.5x5.5 mm: 8.25x6.25
8x6 5x3 8.5x6.5
6x4 8.75x6.75
6.5x4.5 7x5
9x7 7.5x5.5
9.5x7.5 10x8
8x6 8.25x6.25
11x9 8.5x6.5 8.75x6.75 9x7

10
5
4.95 5.5 6.0 6.5
mm: 3.4
7.0 4.35
7.5 4.95
7.75 5.5
8.0 8.15
6.0 6.5
8.3 7.0
9.0 7.5 7.75 8.0

10
5
5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0
mm: 3.9
7.4 4.9
7.8 5.6
8.1 8.35
6.2 6.65
8.65 7.0
8.9 7.4
9.9 7.8 8.1 8.35

10
5
5.75 6.5 6.75 7.0
mm: 4.0
7.5 5.0
8.0 5.75
8.25 6.5
8.5 6.75
8.75 7.0
9.0 10.0
7.5 8.0 8.25 8.5
HEART

5.6 6.2 6.65 7.0 3.9

7.4 4.9
7.8 5.6
8.1 8.35
6.2 6.65
8.65 7.0
8.9 7.4
9.9 7.8 8.1 8.35

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 JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES

57 Design Details

58 Finishes

59 Levels of Finish

60 Jewelry Metal Types

DESIGN DETAILS

JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES | Design Details

Engraving Filigree Milgrain

Pierced/Openwork Carved Enamel/Resin Inlay

Raised Text Recessed Text Inside Engraving

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FINISHES

Bright Polished Semi-Polished Satin/Brushed

Bead Blast/Matte Glass Blast Ice

Stone Hammered Florentine

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LEVELS OF FINISH

FINISHED JEWELRY
Complete and ready-to-wear jewelry that
is polished and set with all stones.

SEMI-FINISHED JEWELRY

JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES | Finishes

Partially complete jewelry which is
typically set with accent gems. Due to
increased flexibility and extreme differ-
ence in cost of larger gemstones (based
on quality and size), the center setting is
incomplete so that a jeweler can remount
a customer’s existing gemstone, set an
in-stock gemstone, or purchase a new gem
based on the customer‘s desire.
SEMI-MOUNT WITH HEAD
Polished and set with side stones or melee
and complete with a fixed head. The center
stone itself still needs to be set.
SEMI-MOUNT WITHOUT HEAD
Set with side stones or melee, but with no
head or center stone. The center setting
itself still needs to be installed and set.

UNFINISHED JEWELRY
Jewelry available in different degrees
of finish.

RAW. A raw casting that needs to be

sanded, polished, and set with stones
if needed.
SEMI-POLISHED. The jewelry item has
been tumbled, but needs a final polish and
all stones to be set if needed.
POLISHED. The jewelry item is complete
pertaining to finishing, but all stones still
must be set if needed.
FINDINGS. Components or parts used in
the making of jewelry, for example, heads,
earwires, basket settings, jump rings,
posts, etc.

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JEWELRY METAL TYPES

GOLD (Au)
24 Karat gold is a dense, malleable precious metal that is bright yellow in color and can be polished to a
high luster.  In its pure form it is considered too soft and not suitable to use in jewelry. Gold is commonly
mixed with other metals, or alloys, to create a wide range of color variations and working properties.
 
White gold is a silvery-looking gold alloy that contains gold mixed with palladium, nickel, or sometimes
zinc to achieve its color. White gold has yellow undertones and is commonly rhodium-plated to create a
whiter appearance. The plating will eventually wear away at which time it can be replated.
X1 White Gold is a super white alloy that does not require rhodium-plating.

• 24 Karat gold fine (99.7% gold).

• 18 Karat gold is 18 parts gold or 75% pure gold content, which may be marked as 750.
• 14 Karat gold is 14 parts gold or 58% pure gold content, which may be marked as 585.
• 10 Karat gold is 10 parts gold or 41% pure gold content.

Yellow White Rose Green

PLATINUM (Pt)
Platinum is a dense, malleable metal that is white in color with cool undertones. It is almost always
used in its purest form in jewelry, 95%. Platinum is substantial in weight. Comparatively, a ring in
platinum will weigh almost 60% more than the same ring in 14kt gold. For these reasons a platinum ring
is significantly more expensive than the same item in a gold alloy.

PALLADIUM (Pd)
Palladium is a member of the platinum metal group and is a soft, silvery-white color with slightly gray
undertones. It is also used in an almost pure form in jewelry, 95%.

SILVER (Ag)
Silver is a soft, lustrous metal that is very malleable and silvery-white in color.

Sterling silver is a common alloy comprised of 92.5 % silver and 7.5 % copper. Continuum™ sterling silver
is an alternative that is 92.5% pure, resistant to oxidation, and harder. Continuum™ sterling is suitable for
gem setting and offers added longevity.

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REFERENCE TABLES

Hypo-
Metal Color Finish Working Properties
Allergenic

Yellow Bright yellow Shows scratches, Malleable, wears

No
Gold to yellow polishes as worn over time

White with
White Shows scratches, Rigid, more brittle than
a yellow No
Gold polishes as worn platinum, wears over time
undertone
Malleable but dense.
Resistant to wear,
White with a Maintains surface
Platinum shows scratches, dulls Yes
cool undertone embellishment such as
to satin finish
engraving and milgrain

JEWELRY ATTRIBUTES | Jewelry Metal Types

Resistant to wear,
Silvery-white
shows scratches, Similar to platinum but with
Palladium with a gray Yes
slowly dulls to less weight
undertone
satin finish

Silvery-white Shows scratches, Malleable, less suitable for

Sterling
with a slight polishes as worn, everyday jewelry because it No
Silver
pink undertone tarnishes wears away more quickly

CONTEMPORARY METALS
A variety of metal alternatives offer lower cost options for use in jewelry.
Rings created from contemporary metals cannot be sized.

Hypo- Emergency
Metal Color Finish Properties
Allergenic Removal

Will show signs

Lightweight, Motorized
Titanium Gray of wear, but can Yes
shatterproof Ring Cutter
be polished

Will show signs

Motorized
Dura Cobalt ® White of wear, but can Shatterproof Yes
Ring Cutter
be polished

Heavy,
Gray Will remain Tungsten/
substantial feel,
Dura Tungsten ®
White, Black polished with no Yes Ceramic
can fracture or
(topcoat) maintenance Ring Cracker
break

Tungsten/
Ceramic Black, White, Maintains its
Can break Yes Ceramic
Couture™ Pink (throughout) finish
Ring Cracker

Can be
machined or
cast. Will show Motorized
Stainless Steel Grayish White Shatterproof Yes
signs of wear Ring Cutter
but can be
polished

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 A Brief History of Jewellery

How has jewellery evolved from one era to the next?

Follow the journey of jewellery through time, from the
medieval era right through to the roaring 20s and beyond.

Early Modern Era 1100 - 1400

Gemstones were said to have supernatural properties,
so much so that some stones were set in metal with the
back of the jewel remaining open and in contact with the
skin. That way, its magic could easily pass to the wearer.

Did you know?

Jewellers were not yet

able to cut and shape
gemstones, which meant
that stones were larger but
with a duller exterior, much
closer to their natural
shape and colour.

Medieval Era 1200 - 1500

Brooches, first used to pin cloaks, became more
embellished and lavish. They featured religious
iconography, coats of arms, and geometric shapes.
Did you know?

In the 14th century, laws

were passed forcing
people to only wear the
jewellery that reflected
the land they owned and
their social status.

Renaissance 1400 - 1700

During the Renaissance, the pendant took many forms
and fast became THE way to express the sensibility of the
Renaissance. With large baroque pearls, goldsmiths created
intricate ships and lizards, as well as mythical creatures.

Did you know?

With the rapid growth

of fine art, technology
and global exploration, the
Renaissance brought new
gemstones with it. The naval
trade discovered diamonds and
rubies in India, topaz in Brazil,
and emeralds in Columbia,
and brought them back to
Europe.

The Victorian Era 1837 - 1901

Jewellery making began to benefit from mass production
as a result of the Industrial Revolution, and machines were
now used to create pieces of jewellery from sheet metal.
Did you know?
Fact: In the mid-19th century, 50 tons of human
Queen Victoria loved
hair made its way to England every year to fulfil the romantic jewellery such
need for mourning jewellery. as cameo pendants, and was
known to wear jewellery that
contained a lock of hair from loved
ones. This sentimental jewellery trend
reached its peak in popularity after
the death of Prince Albert when
the Queen wore only black and
continued to wear mourning
jewellery for years
afterwards.

The Arts & Crafts Movement 1880 - 1910

The philosophy behind the Arts & Craft movement?
In response to industrialisation, the movement was a backlash
against machinery removing creativity from society. Jewellers
began to create new techniques, placing the joy of craft back
into the hands of artists.
Did you know?
You can tell the
difference between an
arts and craft piece and an
art nouveau piece by studying
how the stones are set. An
arts and craft piece heavily uses
cabochon stones that are either
bezel or collet set, whereas an
art nouveau piece would more
likely feature stones with a
prong setting.

Art Nouveau 1895 - 1910

Insects, creatures and botany formed the main motifs of
Art Nouveau jewellery, with enamelling becoming a popular
technique to create an organic look to the designs.

Did you know?

Do you use the plique à jour

enamelling technique? This
technique, closely associated
with Art Nouveau, was used
to create a translucent effect
for delicate organic features
such as insect wings, or a
mermaid’s scales.

Edwardian 1901 - 1915

Jewellers who strayed from the Art Nouveau movement created
more delicate pieces known as the ‘garland’ style. Ribbons,
wreaths, garlands and bows were created with a new, lighter
touch due to new techniques of white platinum fabrication.

Did you know?

Ever heard of
millegraining? The
use of sturdy platinum
in Edwardian pieces made
this new technique possible
– it refers to the addition of
a tiny beaded detail to
the edge of a platinum
piece.

Art Deco 1920s

Geometric shapes and clean lines counteracted the fluid
shapes of the Art Nouveau trend. And with gem cutters
now able to achieve faceted gems with angular edges, new
diamond cuts and shapes were featured in many pieces,
from rings and watches, to headbands and cigarette cases.
Did you know?

The term ‘Art Deco’

came from the Exposition
International des Arts
Décoratifs et Industriels
Modernes - an exhibition
largely dedicated to
jewellery in Paris
in 1925.

Modernist 1930s - 1950s

Gold found its place in the 1930s and 1940s, with yellow and
pink gold being used to create softer lines that still originated
from the angular lines of the Art Deco period.

Did you know?

Inspiration for modernist

jewellery? Many modernist
jewellers from the 30s and
40s took their inspiration from
African masks and tribal cuffs,
using clean lines and minimal
gemstones to create neck
cuffs and bangles that were
simple but striking.

Contemporary 1950s - Present

Jewellers from the 1950s to the present day have continued to look back at the history of
jewellery to re-discover techniques and trends. By re-using and re-hashing these trends, they
can create designs that hark back to a forgotten era while working with today’s tools and
modern techniques to create pieces that are completely unique.

And with jewellery making materials such as precious metals and gemstones now readily
available to the masses, hobbyists can now take on more complex projects becoming craft
experts in their own right.

Future

With the introduction of the

3D printer, designers are
starting to experiment with
new possibilities when it
comes to jewellery making. As
technological tools enhance
the traditional jeweller’s trade,
it’s easy to see how the art of
jewellery making will continue
Manufactured by Cooksongold. to evolve over time.
Designed by Joe Corden.

Visit The Bench for more jewellery inspiration,

trends, and tool and technique advice.

Resources:
https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/a-history-of-jewellery
http://www.historyofjewelry.net/
http://www.trumpetandhorn.com/learn-more/vintage-jewelry-eras.html
https://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com/2011/11/29/jewelry-of-the-middle-ages/
http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1039&context=historydiss
http://www.historyofjewelry.net/jewelry-history/renaissance-jewelry/
http://www.collectorsweekly.com/fine-jewelry/mourning
http://www.guyotbrothers.com/jewelry-history/jewelry-history-page17.htm
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/t/the-arts-and-crafts-movement/
http://jewelrynerd.org/blog/how-to-tell-arts-and-crafts-jewelry-from-art-nouveau-jewelry
http://www.langantiques.com/university/Edwardian_Jewelry:_1901-1915
https://www.beladora.com/2013/01/art-nouveau-jewelry
http://www.langantiques.com/university/Art_Deco_Era_Jewelry
http://www.collectorsweekly.com/fine-jewelry/modernist
Jewellery 1

Jewellery
Jewellery (pronounced /ˈdʒuːəlri/ or /ˈdʒuːələri/) or jewelry (see
American and British English spelling differences) is a form of
personal adornment, manifesting itself as necklaces, rings, brooches,
earrings and bracelets. Jewellery may be made from any material,
usually gemstones, precious metals or shells. Factors affecting the
choice of materials include cultural differences and the availability of
the materials. Jewellery may be appreciated because of its material
properties, its patterns or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery differs
from other items of personal adornment in that it besides looking
Amber pendants
appealing, it often has no other purpose. Items such as belts and
handbags are considered to be accessories rather than jewellery.

The word jewellery is derived from the word jewel, which was
Anglicised from the Old French "jouel" circa the 13th century.[1]
Further tracing leads back to the Latin word "jocale", meaning
plaything. Jewellery is one of the oldest forms of body adornment;
recently-found 100,000-year-old beads made from Nassarius shells are
thought to be the oldest known jewellery.[2]

Jewellery is sometimes regarded as a way of storing wealth and might

also possess some minimal functionality, such as holding a garment Jewellery art using computer aided design.
together or keeping hair in place. It has from very early times been
regarded as a form of personal adornment. The first pieces of jewellery were made from natural materials, such as
bone, animal teeth, shell, wood and carved stone. Some jewellery throughout the ages may have specifically been as
an indication of a social group. More exotic jewellery is often for wealthier people, with its rarity increasing its
value. Due to its personal nature and its indication of social class, some cultures established traditions of burying the
dead with their jewellery.

Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from hairpins to toe rings and many more types of
jewellery. While high-quality jewellery is made with gemstones and precious metals, such as silver or gold, there is
also a growing demand for art jewellery where design and creativity is prized above material value. In addition, there
is the less costly costume jewellery, made from lower value materials and mass-produced. Other variations include
wire sculpture (wrap) jewellery, using anything from base metal wire with rock tumbled stone to precious metals and
precious gemstones.
Jewellery 2

Form and function

Jewellery has been used for a number of reasons:
• Currency, wealth display and storage,
• Functional use (such as clasps, pins and buckles)
• Symbolism (to show membership or status)
• Protection (in the form of amulets and magical wards),[3]
• Artistic display
Most cultures have at some point had a practice of keeping large
amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures
move wedding dowries in the form of jewellery, or create jewellery as
a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been
used as a currency or trade good; an example being the use of slave
beads.

Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles originated as

purely functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their
functional requirement diminished.[4] Kenyan man wearing tribal beads

Jewellery can also be symbolic of group membership, as in the case of

the Christian crucifix or Jewish Star of David, or of status, as in the case of chains of office, or the Western practice
of married people wearing a wedding ring.
Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward off evil is common in some cultures; these
may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa), or glyphs
(such as stylized versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art).[5]
Although artistic display has clearly been a function of jewellery from the very beginning, the other roles described
above tended to take primacy. It was only in the late 19th century, with the work of such masters as Peter Carl
Fabergé and René Lalique, that art began to take primacy over function and wealth. This trend has continued into
modern times, expanded upon by artists such as Robert Lee Morris, Ed Levin, and Alberto Repossi.

Materials and methods

In creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are
often used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of
nearly every metal known have been encountered in jewellery - bronze,
for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery
usually includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium or
silver. Most American and European gold jewellery is made of an alloy
of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number
followed by the letter K. American gold jewellery must be of at least
10K purity (41.7% pure gold), (though in the UK the number is 9K
Anticlastic forged sterling bracelet. (37.5% pure gold) and is typically found up to 18K (75% pure gold).
Higher purity levels are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure
gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America and Europe. These high
purity alloys, however, are widely used across Asia, the Middle East and Africa. Platinum alloys range from 900
(90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used in jewellery is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver. In
costume jewellery, stainless steel findings are sometimes used.
Jewellery 3

Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or

enamel; wood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal
substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay; polymer clay; and
even plastics. Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create
jewellery that has more of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of
lead or lead solder will cause an English Assay office (the building
which gives English jewellery its stamp of approval, the Hallmark) to
destroy the piece.

Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass,

gemstones, metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded
jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets, earrings, belts
and rings. Beads may be large or small, the smallest type of beads used
are known as seed beads, these are the beads used for the "woven"
style of beaded jewellery. Another use of seed beads is an embroidery
technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create
broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a
popular type of handwork during the Victorian era is enjoying a
renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork, is also
very popular in many African cultures. Bead embroidery design.

Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and

Venetian glassmasters developed crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (goldstone),
multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk-glass (lattimo) and imitation gemstones made of glass. As early as the 13th
century, Murano glass and Murano beads were popular.
Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forging, casting, soldering or welding, cutting, carving and
"cold-joining" (using adhesives, staples and rivets to assemble parts).[6]

Diamonds

Diamonds were first mined in India.[7] Pliny may have mentioned

them, although there is some debate as to the exact nature of the stone
he referred to as Adamas;[8] In 2005, Australia, Botswana, Russia and
Canada ranked among the primary sources of gemstone diamond
production.[9] [10]
The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond, part of the
largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75
carats (621.35 g).
Now popular in engagement rings, this usage dates back to the Diamonds.
marriage of Maximilian I to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.
Jewellery 4

Other gemstones
Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:
Amber
Amber, an ancient organic gemstone, is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The stone must be
at least 1 million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120 million years old.
Amethyst
Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It is treasured for its purple hue,
which can range in tone from light to dark.
Emerald
Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies
and sapphires) and are known for their fine green to bluish green colour.
They have been treasured throughout history, and some historians report
that the Egyptians mined emerald as early as 3500 BC.
Jade
Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green, but can come in a
number of other colours as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture,
history, and tradition, and is sometimes referred to as the stone of heaven.
Jasper
Jasper is a gemstone of the chalcedony family that comes in a variety of Spanish emerald and gold pendant at
colours. Often, jasper will feature unique and interesting patterns within Victoria and Albert Museum.
the coloured stone. Picture jasper is a type of jasper known for the colours
(often beiges and browns) and swirls in the stone’s pattern.
Quartz
Quartz refers to a family of crystalline gemstones of various colours and sizes. Among the well-known types
of quartz are rose quartz (which has a delicate pink colour), and smoky quartz (which comes in a variety of
shades of translucent brown). A number of other gemstones, like Amethyst and Citrine, are also part of the
quartz family. Rutilated quartz is a popular type of quartz containing needle-like inclusions.
Ruby
Rubies are known for their intense red colour, and are among the most highly valued precious gemstones.
Rubies have been treasured for millennia. In Sanskrit, the word for ruby is ratnaraj, meaning king of precious
stones.
Sapphire
The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for its medium to deep blue colour and
strong saturation. Fancy coloured sapphires in various colours are also available. In the United States, blue
sapphire tends to be the most popular and most affordable of the three major precious gemstones (emerald,
ruby and sapphire).
Turquoise
Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth, and the world’s largest turquoise producing region is the
southwest United States. Turquoise is prized for its attractive colour, most often an intense medium blue or a
greenish blue, and its ancient heritage. Turquoise is used in a great variety of jewellery styles. It is perhaps
most closely associated with southwest and Native American jewellery, but it is also used in many sleek,
modern styles. Some turquoise contains a matrix of dark brown markings, which provides an interesting
contrast to the gemstone’s bright blue colour.
Jewellery 5

Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic, meaning that they are produced by living
organisms. Others are inorganic, meaning that they are generally composed of and arise from minerals.[11]
Some gems, for example, amethyst, have become less valued as methods of extracting and importing them have
progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, an example is the cubic zirconia, used in place
of the diamond.[12]

Metal finishes

For platinum, gold, and silver jewellery there are many techniques to
create finishes. The most common are high-polish, satin/matte,
brushed, and hammered. High-polished jewellery is by far the most
common and gives the metal the highly-reflective and shiny look.
Satin, or matte finish reduces the shine and reflection of the jewellery
and is commonly used to accentuate gemstones such as diamonds.
Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look, and are created by
brushing a material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving
'brush strokes'. Hammered finishes are typically created by using a
An example of gold plated jewellery
soft, rounded hammer and hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy
texture.

Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired colour. Sterling silver jewellery
may be plated with a thin layer of 0.999 fine silver (a process known as flashing) or may be plated with rhodium or
gold. Base metal costume jewellery may also be plated with silver, gold, or rhodium for a more attractive finish.[13]

Impact on society
Jewellery has been used to denote status. In ancient Rome, for instance, only certain ranks could wear rings;[14]
Later, sumptuary laws dictated who could wear what type of jewellery; again based on rank. Cultural dictates have
also played a significant role; for example, the wearing of earrings by Western men was considered "effeminate" in
the 19th and early 20th centuries. More recently, the display of body jewellery, such as piercings, has become a mark
of acceptance or seen as a badge of courage within some groups, but is completely rejected in others. Likewise, the
hip hop culture has popularized the slang term bling-bling, which refers to ostentatious display of jewellery by men
or women.
Conversely, the jewellery industry in the early 20th century launched a campaign to popularize wedding rings for
men, which caught on, as well as engagement rings for men, which did not, going so far as to create a false history
and claim that the practice had medieval roots. By the mid 1940s, 85% of weddings in the U.S. featured a
double-ring ceremony, up from 15% in the 1920s.[15] Religion has also played a role: Islam, for instance, considers
the wearing of gold by men as a social taboo,[16] and many religions have edicts against excessive display.[17] In
Christianity, the New Testament gives injunctions against the wearing of gold, in the writings of the apostles Paul
and Peter. In Revelation 17, "the great whore" or false religious system, is depicted as being "decked with gold and
precious stones and pearls, having a golden cup in her hand." (Rev. 17:4)
Jewellery 6

History
The history of jewellery is a long one, with many different uses among different cultures. It has endured for
thousands of years and has provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked.

Early history
The first signs of jewellery came from the people in Africa. Perforated beads made from snail shells have been found
dating to 75,000 years ago at Blombos Cave. In Kenya, at Enkapune Ya Muto, beads made from perforated ostrich
egg shells have been dated to more than 40,000 years ago.
Outside of Africa, the Cro-Magnons had crude necklaces and bracelets of bone, teeth, berries and stone hung on
pieces of string or animal sinew, or pieces of carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery
had shell or mother-of-pearl pieces. In southern Russia, carved bracelets made of mammoth tusk have been found.
The Venus of Hohle Fels features a perforation at the top, showing that it was intended to be worn as a pendant.
Around 7,000 years ago, the first sign of copper jewellery was seen.[4]

Egypt

The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt was

around 3,000-5,000 years ago.[18] The Egyptians preferred the luxury,
rarity, and workability of gold over other metals. Predynastic Egypt
had Jewellery in Egypt soon began to symbolize power and religious
power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians
in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly
placed among grave goods.
Amulet pendant (254 BC) made from gold, lapis
In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass in lazuli, turquoise and carnelian, 14 cm wide.
place of precious gems. Although the Egyptians had access to
gemstones, they preferred the colours they could create in glass over
the natural colours of stones. For nearly each gemstone, there was a
glass formulation used by the Egyptians to mimic it. The colour of the
jewellery was very important, as different colours meant different
things; the Book of the Dead dictated that the necklace of Isis around a
mummy’s neck must be red to satisfy Isis’s need for blood, while green
jewellery meant new growth for crops and fertility. Although lapis
lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders,
most other materials for jewellery were found in or near Egypt, for
example in the Red Sea, where the Egyptians mined Cleopatra's An 18th dynasty pharaonic era princess' crown
favourite gem, the emerald. Egyptian jewellery was predominantly
made in large workshops attached to temples or palaces.

Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewellery. Also, ancient Turkish designs found in Persian
jewellery suggest that trade between the Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold
and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.[18]

Europe and the Middle East

Jewellery 7

Mesopotamia
By approximately 4,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in the cities of Sumer and
Akkad. The most significant archaeological evidence comes from the Royal Cemetery of Ur, where hundreds of
burials dating 2900–2300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that of Puabi contained a multitude of artifacts in gold,
silver, and semi-precious stones, such as lapis lazuli crowns embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar
necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. In Assyria, men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including
amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and cylinder seals.[19]
Jewellery in Mesopotamia tended to be manufactured from thin metal leaf and was set with large numbers of
brightly-coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, and jasper). Favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones,
and bunches of grapes. Jewellers created works both for human use and for adorning statues and idols; they
employed a wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such as cloisonné, engraving, fine granulation,
and filigree.[20]
Extensive and meticulously maintained records pertaining to the trade and manufacture of jewellery have also been
unearthed throughout Mesopotamian archaeological sites. One record in the Mari royal archives, for example, gives
the composition of various items of jewellery:
1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 34 flat speckled chalcedony bead, [and] 35 gold fluted
beads, in groups of five.
1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 39 flat speckled chalcedony beads, [with] 41 fluted
beads in a group that make up the hanging device.
1 necklace with rounded lapis lazuli beads including: 28 rounded lapis lazuli beads, [and] 29 fluted beads for
its clasp.[21]

Greece

The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1600 BC,
although beads shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in
earlier times. By 300 BC, the Greeks had mastered making coloured
jewellery and using amethysts, pearl and emeralds. Also, the first signs
of cameos appeared, with the Greeks creating them from Indian
Sardonyx, a striped brown pink and cream agate stone. Greek jewellery
was often simpler than in other cultures, with simple designs and
workmanship. However, as time progressed the designs grew in
complexity different materials were soon utilized.

Gold earring from Mycenae, 16th century BC.

Jewellery 8

Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public
appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift
and was predominantly worn by women to show their wealth, social
status and beauty. The jewellery was often supposed to give the wearer
protection from the “Evil Eye” or endowed the owner with supernatural
powers, while others had a religious symbolism. Older pieces of
jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods. The largest
production of jewellery in these times came from Northern Greece and
Macedon. However, although much of the jewellery in Greece was
made of gold and silver with ivory and gemstones, bronze and clay
copies were made also.

Pendant with naked woman, made from electrum,

Rhodes, around 630-620 BC.

They worked two styles of pieces; cast pieces and pieces hammered
out of sheet metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered;
it was made by casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. Then
the two halves were joined together and wax and then molten metal,
was placed in the centre. This technique had been practised since the
late Bronze Age. The more common form of jewellery was the
hammered sheet type. Sheets of metal would be hammered to thickness
and then soldered together. The inside of the two sheets would be filled
with wax or another liquid to preserve the metal work. Different
techniques, such as using a stamp or engraving, were then used to
Ancient Greek jewellery from 300 BC. create motifs on the jewellery. Jewels may then be added to hollows or
glass poured into special cavities on the surface. The Greeks took
much of their designs from outer origins, such as Asia when Alexander the Great conquered part of it. In earlier
designs, other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery
designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not
to say that indigenous design did not thrive; numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating
from the 1st century, have been found near Olbia, with only one example ever found anywhere else.[22]
Jewellery 9

Rome

Although jewellery work was abundantly diverse in earlier times,

especially among the barbarian tribes such as the Celts, when the
Romans conquered most of Europe, jewellery was changed as smaller
factions developed the Roman designs. The most common artefact of
early Rome was the brooch, which was used to secure clothing
together. The Romans used a diverse range of materials for their
jewellery from their extensive resources across the continent. Although
they used gold, they sometimes used bronze or bone and in earlier
times, glass beads & pearl. As early as 2,000 years ago, they imported
Sri Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds and used emeralds and
amber in their jewellery. In Roman-ruled England, fossilized wood
called jet from Northern England was often carved into pieces of
jewellery. The early Italians worked in crude gold and created clasps,
necklaces, earrings and bracelets. They also produced larger pendants
which could be filled with perfume.
Roman Amethyst intaglio engraved gem, c. 212
Like the Greeks, often the purpose of Roman jewellery was to ward off
AD; later regarded as of St. Peter.
the “Evil Eye” given by other people. Although women wore a vast
array of jewellery, men often only wore a finger ring. Although they
were expected to wear at least one ring, some Roman men wore a ring on every finger, while others wore none.
Roman men and women wore rings with a engraved gem on it that was used with wax to seal documents, an practice
that continued into medieval times when kings and noblemen used the same method. After the fall of the Roman
Empire, the jewellery designs were absorbed by neighbouring countries and tribes.[18]

Middle Ages

Post-Roman Europe continued to develop jewellery making skills; the

Celts and Merovingians in particular are noted for their jewellery,
which in terms of quality matched or exceeded that of Byzantium.
Clothing fasteners, amulets, and to a lesser extent signet rings are the
most common artefacts known to us; a particularly striking celtic
example is the Tara Brooch. The Torc was common throughout Europe
as a symbol of status and power. By the 8th century, jewelled
weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery (with the
exception of signet rings) seems to become the domain of women.
Merovingian fibulae, Bibliothèque nationale de Grave goods found in a 6th-7th century burial near Chalon-sur-Saône
France. are illustrative; the young girl was buried with: 2 silver fibulae, a
necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earings, a pair of hair-pins, comb,
[23]
and buckle. The Celts specialized in continuous patterns and designs; while Merovingian designs are best known
for stylized animal figures.[24] They were not the only groups known for high quality work; note the Visigoth work
shown here, and the numerous decorative objects found at the Anglo-Saxon Ship burial at Sutton Hoo Suffolk,
England, are a particularly well-known example.[18] On the continent, cloisonné and garnet were perhaps the
quintessential method and gemstone of the period.
Jewellery 10

6th century bronze eagle-shaped Visigothic

cloisonné fibula from Guadalajara, Spain, using
glass-paste fillings in imitation of garnets.

The Eastern successor of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire,

continued many of the methods of the Romans, though religious
themes came to predominate. Unlike the Romans, the Franks, and the
Celts, however; Byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather than
solid gold, and more emphasis was placed on stones and gems. As in
the West, Byzantine jewellery was worn by wealthier females, with
male jewellery apparently restricted to signet rings. Like other
contemporary cultures, jewellery was commonly buried with its
owner.[25]
Byzantine wedding ring.
Jewellery 11

Renaissance

The Renaissance and exploration both had significant impacts on the

development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing
exploration and trade lead to increased availability of a wide variety of
gemstones as well as exposure to the art of other cultures. Whereas
prior to this the working of gold and precious metal had been at the
forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing dominance of
gemstones and their settings. A fascinating example of this is the
Cheapside Hoard, the stock of a jeweller hidden in London during the
Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912. It contained
Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite from Brazil, spinel, iolite, and
chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, Afghani lapis lazuli,
Persian turquoise, Red Sea peridot, as well as Bohemian and
Hungarian opal, garnet, and amethyst. Large stones were frequently set
in box-bezels on enamelled rings.[26] Notable among merchants of the
period was Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who in the 1660s brought the
precursor stone of the Hope Diamond to France.
Sardonyx cameo.
When Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned as Emperor of the French in
1804, he revived the style and grandeur of jewellery and fashion in
France. Under Napoleon’s rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such as a diamond tiara,
diamond earrings, diamond rings, a diamond brooch and a diamond necklace. Both of Napoleon’s wives had
beautiful sets such as these and wore them regularly. Another fashion trend resurrected by Napoleon was the cameo.
Soon after his cameo decorated crown was seen, cameos were highly sought after. The period also saw the early
stages of costume jewellery, with fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls or conch shell cameos instead of
stone cameos. New terms were coined to differentiate the arts: jewellers who worked in cheaper materials were
called bijoutiers, while jewellers who worked with expensive materials were called joailliers; a practice which
continues to this day.
Jewellery 12

Romanticism

Starting in the late 18th century, Romanticism had a profound impact

on the development of western jewellery. Perhaps the most significant
influences were the public’s fascination with the treasures being
discovered through the birth of modern archaeology, and the
fascination with Medieval and Renaissance art. Changing social
conditions and the onset of the Industrial Revolution also lead to
growth of a middle class that wanted and could afford jewellery. As a
result, the use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, and stone
substitutes, lead to the development of paste or costume jewellery.
Distinguished goldsmiths continued to flourish, however, as wealthier
patrons sought to ensure that what they wore still stood apart from the
jewellery of the masses, not only through use of precious metals and
stones but also though superior artistic and technical work; one such
artist was the French goldsmith Françoise Désire Froment Meurice. A
category unique to this period and quite appropriate to the philosophy
of romanticism was mourning jewellery. It originated in England,
Mourning jewellery in the form of a jet brooch,
where Queen Victoria was often seen wearing jet jewellery after the
19th century.
death of Prince Albert; and allowed the wearer to continue wearing
jewellery while expressing a state of mourning at the death of a loved
one.[27]

In the United states, this period saw the founding in 1837 of Tiffany & Co. by Charles Lewis Tiffany. Tiffany's put
the United States on the world map in terms of jewellery, and gained fame creating dazzling commissions for people
such as the wife of Abraham Lincoln; later it would gain popular notoriety as the setting of the film Breakfast at
Tiffany's. In France, Pierre Cartier founded Cartier SA in 1847, while 1884 saw the founding of Bulgari in Italy. The
modern production studio had been born; a step away from the former dominance of individual craftsmen and
patronage.

This period also saw the first major collaboration between East and West; collaboration in Pforzheim between
German and Japanese artists lead to Shakudō plaques set into Filigree frames being created by the Stoeffler firm in
1885).[28] Perhaps the grand finalé – and an appropriate transition to the following period – were the masterful
creations of the Russian artist Peter Carl Fabergé, working for the Imperial Russian court, whose Fabergé eggs and
jewellery pieces are still considered as the epitome of the goldsmith’s art.

Art Nouveau
In the 1890s, jewellers began to explore the potential of the growing Art Nouveau style and the closely related
German Jugendstil, British (and to some extent American) Arts and Crafts Movement.
Art Nouveau jewellery encompassed many distinct features including a focus on the female form and an emphasis on
colour, most commonly rendered through the use of enamelling techniques including basse-taille, champleve,
cloisonné and plique-à-jour. Motifs included orchids, irises, pansies, vines, swans, peacocks, snakes, dragonflies,
mythological creatures and the female silhouette.
René Lalique, working for the Paris shop of Samuel Bing, was recognized by contemporaries as a leading figure in
this trend. The Darmstadt Artists' Colony and Wiener Werkstätte provided perhaps the most significant German
input to the trend, while in Denmark Georg Jensen, though best known for his Silverware, also contributed
significant pieces. In England, Liberty & Co. and the British arts & crafts movement of Charles Robert Ashbee
contributed slightly more linear but still characteristic designs. The new style moved the focus of the jeweller's art
Jewellery 13

from the setting of stones to the artistic design of the piece itself; Lalique's dragonfly design is one of the best
examples of this. Enamels played a large role in technique, while sinuous organic lines are the most recognizable
design feature.
The end of World War One once again changed public attitudes; and a more sober style came in.[29]

Art Deco
Growing political tensions, the after-effects of the war, and a reaction against the perceived decadence of the turn of
the century led to simpler forms, combined with more effective manufacturing for mass production of high-quality
jewellery. Covering the period of the 1920s and 1930s, the style has become popularly known as Art Deco. Walter
Gropius and the German Bauhaus movement, with their philosophy of "no barriers between artists and craftsmen"
lead to some interesting and stylistically simplified forms. Modern materials were also introduced: plastics and
aluminum were first used in jewellery, and of note are the chromed pendants of Russian born Bauhaus master Naum
Slutzky. Technical mastery became as valued as the material itself; in the west, this period saw the reinvention of
granulation by the German Elizabeth Treskow (although development of the re-invention has continued into the
1990s).

Jewish jewellery
Jewellery has been a part of Jewish culture since Biblical times. There are references in the Bible to the wearing of
jewellery, both as a decoration and as a symbol. Now, Jewish jewellery is worn to show affiliation with Judaism, as
well as talismans and amulets.
One of the most common symbols in Jewish jewellery is the Star of David. Another popular symbol is the Hamsa,
also known as the "Hamesh hand". The Hamsa appears often in a stylized form, as a hand with three fingers raised,
and sometimes with two thumbs arranged symmetrically. Its five fingers are said to symbolize the five books if the
Torah. The symbol is used for protection and as a talisman to ward off the Evil eye in amulets and charms and can
also be found in various places such as home entrances and cars. It is also common to place other symbols in the
middle of the Hamsa that are believed to help against the evil eye such as fish, eyes and the Star of David. The
colour blue, or more specifically light blue, is also considered protective against the evil eye and many Hamsas are in
that colour or with embedded gemstones in different shades of blue.
The Chai is also a popular Jewish motif for necklaces.
Other motifs found in Jewish jewellery are symbols from the Kabbalah, such as the Merkaba, a three-dimensional
Star of David, and the Tree of life. Pieces of jewellery are decorated with parts or initials of known Jewish prayers
and with 3-letters combinations, believed to represent different names of the Jewish God.
Jewellery 14

Asia
In Asia, the Indian subcontinent has the longest continuous legacy of
jewellery making anywhere, with a history of over 5,000 years.[30] One
of the first to start jewellery making were the peoples of the Indus
Valley Civilization. Early jewellery making in China started around the
same period, but it became widespread with the spread of Buddhism
around 2,000 years ago.

China

One of the earliest cultures to begin making jewellery in Asia was the
Chinese around 5,000 years ago. Chinese jewellery designs were very
religion-oriented and contained Buddhist symbols, a tradition which
continues to this day.
Royal earrings, Andhra Pradesh, 1st Century BC.
The Chinese used silver in their jewellery more often than gold, and
decorated it with their favourite colour, blue. Blue kingfisher feathers
were tied onto early Chinese jewellery and later, blue gems and glass were incorporated into designs. However, jade
was preferred over any other stone, and was fashioned using diamonds. The Chinese revered jade because of the
human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as its hardness, durability and beauty.[4] The first jade pieces were very
simple, but as time progressed, more complex designs evolved. Jade rings from between the 4th and 7th centuries
BC show evidence of having been worked with a compound milling machine; hundreds of years before the first
mention of such equipment in the west.[31]

In China, jewellery was worn frequently by both sexes to show their

nobility and wealth. However, in later years, it was used to accentuate
beauty. Women wore highly detailed gold and silver head dresses and
other items, while men wore decorative hat buttons, which showed
rank, and gold or silver rings. Women also wore strips of gold on their
foreheads, much like women in the Indus Valley. The band was an
early form of tiara and was often decorated with precious gems. The
most common piece of jewellery worn by in China was the earring,
which was worn by both men and women. Amulets were also common
Jade coiled serpent, Han Dynasty (202 BC-220
too, often with a Chinese symbol or dragon. In fact, dragons, Chinese
AD)
symbols and also phoenixes were frequently depicted on jewellery
designs.

The Chinese often placed their jewellery in their graves; most Chinese
graves found by archaeologists contain decorative jewellery.[32]

India

The Indian subcontinent has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery

making anywhere since Ramayana and Mahabharata times. While
Western traditions were heavily influenced by waxing and waning
empires, India enjoyed a continuous development of art forms for some `Xin' Shape Jewellery from Ming Dynasty

5000 years.[30] One of the first to start jewellery making were the Tombs, (1368–1644)

peoples of the Indus Valley Civilization. By 1,500 BC the peoples of

the Indus Valley were creating gold earrings and necklaces, bead necklaces and metallic bangles. Before 2,100 BC,
prior to the period when metals were widely used, the largest jewellery trade in the Indus Valley region was the bead
Jewellery 15

trade. Beads in the Indus Valley were made using simple techniques. First, a bead maker would need a rough stone,
which would be bought from an eastern stone trader. The stone would then be placed into a hot oven where it would
be heated until it turned deep red, a colour highly prized by people of the Indus Valley. The red stone would then be
chipped to the right size and a hole drilled through it with primitive drills. The beads were then polished. Some beads
were also painted with designs. This art form was often passed down through family; children of bead makers often
learnt how to work beads from a young age.
Jewellery in the Indus Valley was worn predominantly by females, who wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on
their wrists. They were often shaped like doughnuts and painted black. Over time, clay bangles were discarded for
more durable ones. In India today, bangles are made out of metal or glass. Other pieces that women frequently wore
were thin bands of gold that would be worn on the forehead, earrings, primitive brooches, chokers and gold rings.
Although women wore jewellery the most, some men in the Indus Valley wore beads. Small beads were often
crafted to be placed in men and women’s hair. The beads were about one millimetre long.
A female skeleton (presently on display at the National Museum, New Delhi, India) wears a carlinean bangle (a
bracelet) on her left hand.
India was the first country to mine diamonds, with some mines dating back to 296 BC. India traded the diamonds,
realising their valuable qualities. This trade almost vanished 1,000 years after Christianity grew as a religion, as
Christians rejected the diamonds which were used in Indian religious amulets. Along with Arabians from the Middle
East restricting the trade, India’s diamond jewellery trade lulled.
Today, many of the jewellery designs and traditions are still used and jewellery is commonplace in Indian
ceremonies and weddings.[32]

Americas
Jewellery played a major role in the fate of the Americas when the Spanish established an empire to seize South
American gold. Jewellery making developed in the Americas 5,000 years ago in Central and South America. Large
amounts of gold was easily accessible, and the Aztecs, the Mixtecs, the Mayans and numerous Andean cultures like
the Mochica of Peru created beautiful pieces of jewellery.
With the Mochica culture, goldwork flourished. The pieces are no longer simple metalwork, but are now masterful
examples of jewellery making. Pieces are sophisticated in their design, and feature inlays of turquoise, mother of
pearl, spondylus shell, and amethyst. The nose and ear ornaments, chest plates, small containers and whistles are
considered masterpieces of ancient Peruvian culture.[33]
Among the Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it
showed their rank, power and wealth. Gold jewellery was
most common in the Aztec Empire and was often decorated
with feathers from birds. The main purpose of Aztec jewellery
was to draw attention, with richer and more powerful Aztecs
wearing brighter, more expensive jewellery and clothes.
Although gold was the most common and popular material
used in Aztec jewellery, silver was also readily available
throughout the American empires. In addition to adornment
and status, the Aztecs also used jewellery in sacrifices to
appease the gods. Priests also used gem encrusted daggers to
Moche Ear Ornaments. 1-800 AD. Larco Museum perform animal and human sacrifices.[18] [27]
Collection, Lima-Peru
Jewellery 16

Another ancient American civilization with expertise in jewellery making was the Maya. At the peak of their
civilization, the Maya were making jewellery from jade, gold, silver, bronze and copper. Maya designs were similar
to those of the Aztecs, with lavish head dresses and jewellery. The Maya also traded in precious gems. However, in
earlier times, the Maya had little access to metal, so made the majority of their jewellery out of bone or stone.
Merchants and nobility were the only few that wore expensive jewellery in the Maya Empire, much the same as with
the Aztecs.[32]
In North America, Native Americans used shells, wood, turquoise, and soapstone, almost unavailable in South and
Central America. The turquoise was used in necklaces and to be placed in earrings. Native Americans with access to
oyster shells, often located in only one location in America, traded the shells with other tribes, showing the great
importance of the body adornment trade in Northern America.[34]

Pacific
Jewellery making in the Pacific started later than in other areas because of recent human settlement. Early Pacific
jewellery was made of bone, wood and other natural materials, and thus has not survived. Most Pacific jewellery is
worn above the waist, with headdresses, necklaces, hair pins and arm and waist belts being the most common pieces.
Jewellery in the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either fertility or power. Elaborate
headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain
headresses once they have killed an enemy. Tribesman may wear boar bones through their noses.
Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures; some areas of
Borneo and Papua New Guinea are yet to be explored by Western nations. However, the island nations which were
flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any
type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism. Thus many tribal designs were lost forever in
the mass conversion to Christianity.[35]
Australia is now the number one supplier of opals in the world. Opals
had already been mined in Europe and South America for many years
prior, but in the late 1800s, the Australian opal market became
predominant. Australian opals are only mined in a few select places
around the country, making it one the most profitable stones in the
Pacific.[36]

One of the few cultures to today still create their jewellery as they did
many centuries prior is the New Zealand Māori, who create Hei-tiki.
The reason the hei-tiki is worn is not apparent; it may either relate to A modern opal bracelet
ancestral connections, as Tiki was the first Māori, or fertility, as there
is a strong connection between this and Tiki. Another suggestion from historians is that the Tiki is a product of the
ancient belief of a god named Tiki, perhaps dating back to before the Māoris settled in New Zealand. Hei-tikis are
traditionally carved by hand from bone (commonly whale), nephrite or bowenite; a lengthy and spiritual process.
The Hei-tiki is now popular amongst tourists who can buy it from souvenir or jeweller shops.

Other than jewellery created through Māori influence, jewellery in New Zealand remains similar to other western
civilizations; multi cultural and varied. This is more noticeable in New Zealand because of its high levels of
non-European citizens.[35]
Jewellery 17

Modern
The modern jewellery movement began in the late 1940s at the end of World War II with a renewed interest in
artistic and leisurely pursuits. The movement is most noted with works by Georg Jensen and other jewellery
designers who advanced the concept of wearable art. The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal
Clay (PMC) and colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the
development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Mikimoto Kōkichi and the development of improved
quality artificial gemstones such as moissanite (a diamond simulant), has placed jewellery within the economic grasp
of a much larger segment of the population.
The "jewellery as art" movement was spearheaded by artisans such as Robert Lee Morris and continued by designers
such as Gill Forsbrook in the UK. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident; one example of this is
bling-bling style jewellery, popularized by hip-hop and rap artists in the early 21st century.
The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. The
following are innovations in the decades stradling the year 2000: "Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic
raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodizing, shell forms, PMC, photoetching, and [use of] CAD/CAM."[37]
Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession. With more than 17 United States periodicals
about beading alone, resources, accessibility and a low initial cost of entry continues to expand production of
hand-made adornments. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan Museum.[38]

Body modification
Jewellery used in body modification is usually plain; the use of simple
silver studs, rings and earrings predominates. Common jewellery
pieces such as earrings, are themselves a form of body modification, as
they are accommodated by creating a small hole in the ear.
Padaung women in Myanmar place large golden rings around their
necks. From as early as 5 years old, girls are introduced to their first
neck ring. Over the years, more rings are added. In addition to the
twenty-plus pounds of rings on her neck, a woman will also wear just
as many rings on her calves too. At their extent, some necks modified
like this can reach 10-15 inches long; the practice has obvious health
impacts, however, and has in recent years declined from cultural norm
to tourist curiosity.[39] Tribes related to the Paduang, as well as other
cultures throughout the world, use jewellery to stretch their earlobes, or
enlarge ear piercings. In the Americas, labrets have been worn since
before first contact by Innu and First Nations peoples of the northwest
coast.[40] Lip plates are worn by the African Mursi and Sara people, as A Kayan girl in Northern Thailand.
well as some South American peoples.

In the late 20th century, the influence of modern primitivism led to many of these practices being incorporated into
western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects;
thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred.
In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier, with in some cases, hooks or even objects as large
as bike bars being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal
groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practise has seeped into western culture. Many
extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin. Most often, these
hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practice is said to give an erotic
Jewellery 18

feeling to the person and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whilst being suspended by
hooks.[39]

Jewellery market
According to a recent KPMG study[41] the largest jewellery market is the United States with a market share of
30.8%, Japan, India and China and the Middle East each with 8 - 9% and Italy with 5%. The authors of the study
predict a dramatic change in market shares by 2015, where the market share of the United States will have dropped
to around 25%, and China and India will increase theirs to over 13%. The Middle East will remain more or less
constant at 9%, whereas Europe's and Japan's marketshare will be halved and become less than 4% for Japan, and
less than 3% for the biggest individual European countries: Italy and the UK.

See also
• Art jewellery
• Etruscan jewellery
• List of jewellery types
• Gemology
• History of jewellery in Ukraine
• Jewellery cleaning
• Murano glass
• Murano beads
• Wire sculpture jewellery
• Handmade jewellery
• Titanium ring jewellery

Further reading
• Borel, F. 1994. The Splendor of Ethnic Jewelry: from the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection. New York:
H.N. Abrams (ISBN 0-8109-2993-7).
• Evans, J. 1989. A History of Jewellery 1100-1870 (ISBN 0-486-26122-0).
• Nemet-Nejat, Karen Rhea 1998. Daily Life in Ancient Mesopotamia. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press (ISBN
0-313-29497-6).
• Tait, H. 1986. Seven Thousand Years of Jewellery. London: British Museum Publications (ISBN 0-7141-2034-0).

External links
• Ancient jewelry from Central Asia (IV BC-IV AD) [42]

References
[1] jewel. (n.d.). (http:/ / dictionary. reference. com/ browse/ jewel) Dictionary.com Unabridged (v 1.1). Retrieved on August 7, 2007, from the
Dictionary.com website.
[2] Study reveals 'oldest jewellery' (http:/ / news. bbc. co. uk/ 2/ hi/ science/ nature/ 5099104. stm), BBC News, June 22, 2006.
[3] Kunz, PhD, DSc, George Frederick (1917). Magic of Jewels and Charms. John Lippincott Co.. URL: Magic Of jewels: Chapter VII Amulets
(http:/ / www. farlang. com/ gemstones/ kunz-magic-jewels/ page_360) George Frederick Kunz was gemmologist for Tiffany's built the
collections of banker J.P. Morgan and the American Natural History Museum in NY City. This chapter deals entirely with using jewels and
gemstones in jewellery for talismanic purposes in Western Cultures. The next chapter deals with other, indigenous cultures.
[4] Holland, J. 1999. The Kingfisher History Encyclopedia. Kingfisher books.
[5] Morris, Desmond. Body Guards: Protective Amulets and Charms. Element, 1999, ISBN 1-86204-572-0.
[6] McCreight, Tim. Jewelry: Fundamentals of Metalsmithing. Design Books International, 1997 ISBN 1-880140-29-2
[7] http:/ / lgdl. gia. edu/ pdfs/ janse-table1. pdf
Contents
Unit 1 Page 1
Unit 2 2
Unit 3 3
Unit 4 4
Unit 5 5
Unit 6 6
Unit 7 7
Unit 8 8
Unit 9 9
Unit 10 10
Unit 11 11
Unit 12 12
Unit 13 13
Unit 14 14
Unit 15 15
Unit 16 16
Unit 17 17
Unit 18 18
Answer Key 19

ii Jewellery
1
1 Complete the table.
Verb Noun Verb Noun

to 1
adaptation to 5
design

to 2
approval to develop 6

to assemble 3 to produce 7

to conceive 4 to 8
specification

2 Complete the text with the words listed below.

threaders hinge pierced Omega French wire

Omega back, hinge strap backs, threaders, French wire, and hinged clips are closures designed for
people whose ears are not 1
. 2
closures are popular on dangle earrings.
3
are thin, long chains that are passed through the pierced ear. 4
snap backs
require the person to insert a curved post into the pierced ear, which can then be locked to secure it.
An 5
has a straight post and the earring back snaps closed using a hinge design.

3 The diagram shows the length of necklaces in inches. Complete the table, matching the length
of necklaces with the terms listed below.

collar choker princess matinee opera rope or lariat

Length in inches Common Name
14
14”
16 16”
18 18”
20”
22”
20 – 24 24”
30 30”

36 36”

4 Find ten words relating to jewellery. b u t t e r f l y s

The words read from left to right (→) u a s d f d i s c x
and top to bottom (↓). t s t u g b s t u d
t c l u t c h a s e
post  button  drop  hoop o h w p o i h o o p
stud  jacket  hook  charm n a i w e h o o k o
disc wire q r r x d r o p m s

n m e j a c k e t t
a s h a l f l o o p
v c l i p b a c k w

Jewellery 1
2
1 Match the words (1–5) with their opposites (a–e).
1 organized a dirty
2 clean b disorganized
3 clear (instructions) c cluttered
4 clear (workbench) d unsafe
5 safe e unclear

2 Put the words in the correct order to make questions.

1 delivery you want do When ?

2 order minimum is What the ?

3 offer you What colours other do ?

4 order I three Can please ?

3 Starting with the least valuable (1) put these precious metals in order of their value (1–5).

silver platinum gold palladium rhodium

1    2    3    4    5 

4 Read the text and answer the questions.

Gold can be mixed with other metals such as silver, platinum, palladium, copper or nickel. Gold that has
silver, palladium or platinum is often called ‘white gold’. Copper is often added to gold to make it more
durable, this is called ‘rose gold’.
The term karat refers to the purity of the gold; the better way to refer to gold is by its weight and its
purity. The word carat, which is often interchangeable with karat, is actually the weight of a gemstone.

1 What is mixed with gold to make it more durable?

2 What is mixed with gold to make white gold?

3 What are the two ways of referring to gold in order to work out its value?

2 Jewellery
3
1 Find ten words relating to gemstones. r o s e q u a r t z
The words read from left to right (→) a m e t h y s t z s
and top to bottom (↓). r a m e t o n y x z
g e e v b n y b c l
aquamarine  garnet  topaz  amethyst g a r n e t a r i f
citrine  emerald  amber jade t o a o p z m r t j
onyx  rose quartz o w l q n m b c r a
p y d a m b e s i d
a q u a m a r i n e
z g f a s d f g e e

2 Complete the table with the stones listed below.

diamond amethyst emerald lapis-lazuli ruby turquoise sapphire topaz

Precious Semi-precious

3 Complete the sentences with the words listed below.

perfection prized flaws

1 With rough stones containing it is important to decide whether the stone should be
cut and the size reduced.
2 Specimens should usually be cut to attain the highest possible degree of and beauty.
3 A small stone with beautiful features is often more than a less perfect, larger stone.

4 Complete the table of adjectives and adverbs.

Adjectives Adverbs Adjectives Adverbs
1 careful 9 late
2 clearly 10 patient
3 early 11 politely
4 fast 12 quick
5 freshly 13 quietly
6 good 14 regular
7 hard 15 seriously
8 immediate 16 slow

Jewellery 3
4
1 Complete the sentences with the words listed below and draw the time on each clock.

finish shift late early leave overtime

1 My starts at 8.00 am. 4 I started work today at
7.30 am.
2 It’s 9.00 am! I’m
5 I am working tonight.
for work.
I won’t finish work until 9.00pm.

3 I work at 5.00 pm. 6 I my house at 6.30 am

to catch the bus.

2 Read the text and answer the questions.

To create traditional jewellery a number of techniques are used.
• Hammering is carried out using a blunt nail and hammer.
• Burnishing makes the material bright.
• Sanding create a perfect finish.
• Aging makes dark grooves using a chisel.
• Gold bathing involves using an electrolyte process.
• Satin finishing uses a milling tool with interchangeable cutting edges.
1 What technique is used to make the material bright?

2 What tool is used for aging?

3 What tool is used for satin finishing?

3 Label the pictures of jeweller’s tools with the words listed below.
ring stretcher  doming block  doming punches  crimping pliers
wheatsheaf sawframe ring triblet jeweller’s shears

1 1 2 3 4
2
3
4
5
6
7
5 6 7 8
8

4 Jewellery
5
1 Rearrange the words to make sentences about the working week.
1 work/ enjoy/ company/ I/ it/ working/ here/ is/ to/ a good/ for

2 shift/ changes/ My/ pattern/ weekly

3 work/ 8.00am/ I / Friday/ to/ 5.30pm/ Monday/ to

4 day/ look/ I/ it’s/ forward/ Friday/ pay/ to

2 Complete the sentences with at, in or on.

1 Are you available for overtime Thursday?
2 We have a large order to complete. We need to ask staff if they can work the weekend.
3 Is the maintenance manager the other factory today?
4 Our staff meeting starts 4.00pm.
5 My lunch break finishes 15 minutes.
6 I am not working next week. I am going holiday.

3 Match the processes (1–5) with the descriptions (a–e).

1 pickling a mass production of jewellery using moulds or lost wax
2 forging b curving, stretching, flattening or shaping silver
3 inlaying c joining two or more parts of silver purely using heat
4 fusing d cutting lines or shapes in silver and then putting another
5 casting material into those grooves
e cleaning the silver after heating to remove the oxides

4 Complete the table with the expressions of quantity listed below. Some expressions are
used twice.

a lot of a little any many a few much lots of some

I’ve got... I haven’t got...
a lot of a lot of

Jewellery 5
6
1 Label the picture with the words listed below.

hallmark claws setting stone shoulders shank

1
1
2
6
3
4
5
6 2

2 Complete the sentences using the correct form of the words in brackets.
1 When I (arrive) at work this morning, I was (prepare) for a very busy day.
2 By the time I made it to the office, the meeting (begin, already) without me. My
supervisor (be) very angry.
3 Since I began working here, I have (perform) several jobs. Now I am (charge)
of training.

3 Read the sentences and underline the unnecessary articles.

1 She has got an experience of working in a factory.
2 Stop! Something has a caught in the machine.
3 I don’t know how to work this machine. I need a more instructions.
4 Our employees have the good first aid skills.
5 Which the shifts are you working this week?

4 Match the words (1–5) with their opposites (a–e).

1 in a play
2 clean b dirty
3 damaged c worthless
4 precious d out
5 work e repaired

6 Jewellery
7
1 Complete the table by matching the descriptions with the techniques listed below.

finishing cold joining soldering

Description Technique

1 Non-solder technique using small drill bits,

an anvil and hammer.

2 Using flux, a propane torch and tweezers to join.

3 Using a set of needle files and sandpapers to get

a mirror-like effect.

2 Match the phrasal verbs (1–5) with the definitions (a–e).

1 ask someone to do something now a get on with
2 perform a task b finish off
3 to complete something c hurry up
4 to delay because you are waiting for something d carry out
5 to prepare for something e wait until
6 to make progress f get ready

3 Match the words (1–5) with the definitions (a–e).

1 order a buying
2 supplier b a price that a company offers to do work for or supply parts for if it wins the order
3 bid c to request goods from a company
4 costs d a person or organization that provides goods or services
5 purchasing e the amount of money spent on running a business

4 Find ten words relating to jewellery making. a s r e p o u s s e

The words read from left to right (→) and top s t a k e s w r w n
to bottom (↓). t a s d f g h b a g
s n i p s i o a g r
planish  swage  engraving  chasing a v i l s n b l e a
snips  polishing  anvil  rivet r i v e t b a l g v
pickle stakes p l a n i s h p o i
k j p i c k l e k n
y u i c h a s i n g
p o l i s h i n g o

Jewellery 7
8
1 Complete the text with the words listed below.

precious electrical silver photographic coins

has long been valued as a
1 2
metal, and it is used to make ornaments,
jewellery, tableware, utensils and 3
. Today, silver metal is also used in
4
contacts and conductors, in mirrors and in catalysis of chemical reactions. Its compounds are used
in 5
film, and dilute silver nitrate solutions and other silver compounds are used as
disinfectants.

2 Match the jewellery items (1–5) with where they are worn (a–e).
1 necklace a wrist
2 bracelet b ears
3 ring c neck
4 earring d clothing
5 broach e finger

3 Label the types of jewellery fasteners with the words listed below.

springring tab insert fold over barrel hook

1
2 3
2 1
3
4
5

4 5

4 Read the text and answer the questions.

A tumi was a ceremonial knife. Made in one piece, it was traditionally made from gold, bronze or copper.
The handle was usually rectangular or a trapezoid. At the bottom of the knife was a sharp, semi-circular
blade. Some of the tumi had elaborate handles in the form of a face. The knife was also used to treat
psychological disorders.

1 What metals were used to make a tumi?

2 What shape was the blade?

3 What were the two purposes of the knife?

8 Jewellery
9
1 Make Present Perfect sentences and questions.
1 You finish cutting?

2 We do the altering.

3 You and Juan finish it?

4 We not do it.

5 They secure the necklace.

6 We make the adjustments.

7 He work with Sophia.

8 Why they mend it?

2 Complete the sentences using the (to) infinitive or -ing form of the verbs listed below.

apply switch on sweep serve work

1 Oh no! I’ve forgotten the power supply.
2 When you’ve finished the floor, can you sort out the delivery?
3 Did the manager let you on the production line in your previous job?
4 I enjoy in the shop, but I’d rather work in the workshop.
5 I’ve decided for the supervisor’s job.

3 Complete the table.

100,000 One hundred thousand
1
Twelve hundred

120,000 2

3 Six million

14,500,000 4

5 Fifty four and a half percent

60% 6

4 Match the words (1–8) with the abbreviations listed below.

cm g kg km m y mm in

1 grams 5 centimetres
2 kilograms 6 metres
3 inches 7 kilometres
4 millimetres 8 yards

Jewellery 9
10
1 Match the technique or design features (1–5) with the descriptions (a–e).
1 weld a a strip of wire that surrounds or secures a stone
2 embossing b pouring molten metal into a mould to create a piece
3 casting c using a hammer and steel tools to recess or reshape metal
4 chasing d raising a domed design on the front of a piece by beating it from
5 bezel behind with a punch and hammer
e joining two pieces of metal by using a very high heat

2 Find eight words relating to jewellery l o s t w a x d h t

techniques and processes. The words f i l i g r e e a i
read from left to right (→) and top a s f g t r e a m f
to bottom (↓). u s w i f t e r m f
x m e n w e a r e a
filigree  hammered  granulate  faux s w n m i r r o r n
mirror shank scoring burnished s c o r i n g p e y
b u r n i s h e d p
b e r n s h a n k e
g r a n u l a t e f

3 Complete the sentences using much or many.

1 There is not gas left in the cylinder.
2 How blank rings do we have?
3 Is there demand for this design?
4 How customers have ordered this?
5 I think I have ordered too beads.
6 Thank you for doing this, it is appreciated.

4 Read the text and answer the questions.

To be a successful designer you need to be able to create unusual designs. The collection needs to have a lot
of variety as customers look for unique pieces to wear. Customers will expect a high level of skill even in
hand-crafted pieces, so it is important to have all of the key basic skills. Customers will pay more for pieces
if they believe that the product is of high quality. Learning the basic principles of jewellery design is very
important. You will have to consider colour, texture and balance. You will also need to know how to handle
a wide variety of different materials and understand how they work together. Customers also like the idea
of being able to have customised or personalised pieces that can make regular pieces unique to them.

1 What do you need to do to be a successful designer?

2 What are customers looking for if they are prepared to pay a high price for a piece?

3 How can you make regular pieces unique to customers?

10 Jewellery
11
1 Find ten words relating to time. s a v q y f c d g o
The words read from left to right (→) h o u r e a l a t e
and top to bottom (↓). i o g z a g k y p a
f a n c r z l j o r
hour  shift  early  week t k s t a r t v a l
day  minute  year  start a f o v t g n m t y
finish late q w e e k r f l a q
l d l o m i n u t e
a o c t g d j t n t
f i n i s h f v o a

2 Complete the sentences with the passive form of the verbs in brackets.
1 The message (take) by the receptionist.
2 The delivery driver (give) the wrong directions.
3 Julia (thank) for her hard work.
4 The production output (monitor) closely by the supervisor.
5 More than half of the employees in the study (identify) as being happy with their
salary.

3 Complete the text with the words listed below.

design sketch jewellery metallurgy 3D

The industry is now more like a series of laboratories, with high powered computers
1

and experts. Laser cutting and soldering, CAD imaging and new metal alloys allow the
2

3
of jewellery that would have been impossible in the past. 4
programs can
mode complex constructions, but it still all begins with a hand drawn 5
.

4 Complete the order form with the column headings listed below.

description quantity total item number unit price

ORDER FORM Sparkles Jewellers 22 High Street, Oxford, +44 1865 887564

1 2 3 4 5

VB5- TRC Silver Thread Spools 250 £2.22 £555.00
GH9 - FGB Packing Boxes 45 £0.19 £8.55

Delivery Address
TOTAL £563.55
JCPS Ltd
Murraytown Park
Southampton SO98 1DE

Jewellery 11
12
1 Match the precious stones (1–4) with the descriptions (a–d).
1 diamond a the rarest of all precious stones, it is extremely hard. It’s colour varies from a
2 sapphire bright pinkish red to a purplish red.
3 ruby b the hardest stone is colourless, and is renowned as the most precious stone.
4 emerald c this stone can be many colours, but the most sought-after colour is a dark blue.
d the value of this green stone is based more on its colour than its purity.

2 Complete the text with the words listed below.

traditions crafts generation luck Peru

With Peruvian jewellery it is clear that age old 1
are still celebrated in modern day
2
. Mate jewellery, which was made from carved gourd, represents a special Peruvian craft
that has been passed down from generation to 3
. The Huayruro seed jewellery also stems
from the tradition of carrying Huayruro seeds for good 4
. Some Peruvian necklaces and
earrings are made with pieces of intricate woven tapestries. These pieces have a connection to the
ancient weavings that started thousands of years ago in 5
.

3 Read the text and answer the questions.

Peru produces some of the most beautiful common opals in the world. They are often cut into
cabochons. Peruvian blue opals are relatively rare and only found near San Patricio. They are translucent
stones. The opal is the national stone of Peru. If the blue colour in an opal is uneven, then it is probably
that the stone has been dyed. Dyed stones are very common and are much cheaper than the real thing.
The Peruvian opal ranges from 5.5–6.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness. The luster is vitreous to pearly and
there are often white streaks in the stone.

1 What does the Mohs scale measure?

2 What are two signs that a stone has been dyed?

3 Where can Peruvian blue opals be found?

4 Match the words (1–5) with the definitions (a–e).

1 responsible a showing honesty and reliability
2 trustworthy b being accountable for your actions
3 enthusiastic c eager to get on with something
4 passionate d someone who sells products to a customer
5 salesperson e have deep feelings about something

12 Jewellery
13
1 Match the types of ring (1–5) with the definitions (a–e).
1 engagement ring a a large, dramatic ring worn to parties
2 cocktail ring b bought when a couple intend to be married
3 eternity ring c a ring with a number of gemstones clustered together
4 cluster ring d exchanged after many years of marriage
5 bridal set e engagement and wedding ring

2 Find eight words relating to jewellery. b e z g r o p e c r

The words read from left to right (→) e a r r i n i g u s
and top to bottom (↓). z v u a n m e w s c
e w k i l i r x h x
inlaid carat cushion  l e a n y t c r i c
engrave facet inclusion  i n l a i d e e o f
grain  grooved g r o o v e d b n a

i n c l u s i o n c
e n g r a v e a s e
w e r t y c a r a t

3 Rearrange the words to make sentences.

1 Many/ stores/ bench work/ jewellers/ in retail

2 Manufacturers/ assemble/ use/ jewellery/ to/ bench jewellers

3 bench engraving/ do/Jewellers/ do not

4 bench/ rings/ resize/ jewellers

5 Bench jewellers/ jewellery/ mend/ do not clean/ but

4 Complete the sentences with the words listed below.

hand-made decorated mineral-based animal glazed colours

1 Peruvian ceramic beads are generally beads that are by painting,
stamping or by giving different textures.
2 Most of the Peruvian beads have unusual textured appearance and are hand-painted with special
pigments.
3 The ceramic beads are most famous types of Peruvian beads that are used to make
ceramic jewellery.
4 Ceramic beads are generally to make them last longer.
5 This process not only protects them but allows them to have attractive and designs.

Jewellery 13
14
1 Complete the text with the words listed below.

glass bone ivory clay twines

Materials commonly used in jewellery making include 1
, enamel, wood, shells and
other natural animal substances such as 2
and 3
. Natural clay, polymer
4
and even plastics can also be used. Hemp and other 5
have been used as
well to create jewellery that has a more natural feel.

2 Complete the sentences by choosing the correct option.

1 Only use machinery that you have been to use properly.
a  training b  train c trained
2 Always read the instruction manual .
a  carefully b care c careful
3 Make sure you instructions before attempting to use any tool.
a understood b understand c understanding
4 Always safety glasses or goggles.
a  wearing b where c wear

3 What are the adjectives from these nouns? Complete the table.
Noun Adjective
1 width
2 height
3 length
4 depth
5 weight

4 Match the definitions (1–6) with the phrasal verbs listed below.

chase up  carry out  catch up  get on with  fall behind  hold up

1 lose time on a schedule
2 perform a task
3 cause a delay
4 contact somebody in order to remind them to do something
5 spend extra time doing something because you haven’t done it earlier
6 make progress

14 Jewellery
15
1 Complete the sentences by choosing the correct option.
1 Do not metal shavings by hand.
a removal b removing c remove
2 Do not leave machines .
a unattended b unintended c attended
3 Do not wear clothing when operating machinery.
a loose b lose c loosing
4 Spills should be up immediately.
a cleanly b cleaned c clean

2 Put the words in the correct order to make questions.

1 come can I in ?

2 me you can pass hammer that ?

3 this you me help carry can box ?

3 Read the note and answer the questions.

Mr Vargas came in yesterday. He ordered four pairs of Item 4201 – silver

pendant earrings – for his daughters. He wants them gift wrapped. He
will pay in cash. He said he would collect them after 2pm. He needs a
handwritten receipt. He will be in a hurry.

1 What did Mr Vargas order?

2 How will he pay?

3 What do you need to do before he arrives?

4 Match the tasks (1–4) with the descriptions (a–d).

1 stocktaking a convincing a customer to make a purchase
2 selling b ensuring there are no thefts
3 security c counting each item in the store
4 stocking up d taking products from the storeroom and displaying them in the shop

Jewellery 15
16
1 Complete the sentences with the Past Continuous and Past Simple form of the verbs in brackets.
1 I (learn) to use the machine when I (cutting my hand).
2 When I (fall), I (climb) a ladder in the stock room.
3 They (soldering) when the fire (start).
4 (you use) the computer when the power (go off).
5 He (not use) the safety guard when he (cut) his finger.
6 When we (eat) lunch, the fire alarm (sound).

2 Choose the correct word to complete the sentence.

1 A bench jeweller will need to about stone setting.
a  now b know c no
2 A bench jeweller will have to be as the job involves lots of different tasks.
a  versatile b versatility c virtual
3 A bench jeweller is someone who uses a of jewellery-making skills to make and repair
jewellery.
a  combine b combination c combining

3 Find ten words relating to crafting jewellery. s t o n e c q s e b

The words read from left to right (→) e b f y a a w o g r
and top to bottom (↓). t v i u s s e l o a
t f l w d t r d l z
stone  enamel  setting  goldsmith i e i e c i t e d i
brazing  casting  polish  solder n r n c f n y r s n
engraver filing g n g v g g u e m g
e n g r a v e r i e
e n a m e l i e t e
p o l i s h o a h a

4 Match the words (1–5) with the definitions (a–e).

1 a safety procedure a harm done to a person’s body
2 a risk assessment b a way of doing things to prevent accidents
3 a technique c a report about possible dangers
4 an injury d a particular way of doing something, especially
5 an incident one in which you have to learn special skills
e something that happens; an event, a fire, a
collision, an accident

16 Jewellery
17
1 Read the text and answer the questions.
Jewellery is made all over the world. The amount produced by one country compared to the total produced
by the world is called market share. Currently the USA is the biggest, with a market share of 30%. India,
China and the Middle East all have 8%. It is predicted that the USA’s share will fall to 25% by 2015, with
China and India increasing to 13% each.

1 Who has the biggest market share?

2 Which two countries will see growth in their market share by 2015?

3 Italy has a market share of 5% now, but this will fall to 4% by 2015. What is the percentage drop?

2 Match the features (1–3) with the descriptions (a–c).

1 eye catching pieces a simple products that sell in big volumes
2 base products b pieces with a strong design
3 single products c big statement jewellery

3 Read the text and answer the questions.

Peru produced 123.9 million ounces of silver in 2009. This is 17% of the total world production. It also
made Peru the biggest producer of silver in the world. The export of silver accounts for 8% of Peru’s total
exports. In the first quarter of 2010, Peru exported $10 million worth of jewellery. This was an increase of
34% on 2009. The development of the silver jewellery industry is becoming more important to Peru as it is
providing large numbers of jobs and income to the country.

1 Which country is the largest supplier of silver in the world?

2 What was the increase in value of the jewellery exports in 2010 compared to 2009?

3 Why is silver so important to Peru?

4 Match the pictures (1–5) with the types of jewellery listed below.
cufflinks  1 2 3
bangle 
earring 
brooch 
ring

1
2 4 5

3
4
5

Jewellery 17
18
1 Diamonds are often classed by the 4 Cs – cut, colour, carat and clarity.
Match the terms (1–4) with the descriptions (a–d).
1 colour a brings out the sparkle from the rough condition
2 cut b number of scratches or flaws
3 clarity c the weight
4 carat d can be from pale yellow to brown

2 Find ten words relating to gemmology. x e x r a y d d j s

The words read from left to right (→) b x i s y f b n u y
and top to bottom (↓). i t a s l i g h t n
n e w e s l i g y t
refractive  filter  light  spectrum o s p e c t r u m h
natural  scratch  synthetic  binocular c t s d f e b v n e
test optic u n a t u r a l o t

l c x o p t i c w i
a s c r a t c h i c
r e f r a c t i v e

3 Label the gemstone cuts (1–6) with the words listed below.

oval octagon triangle round heart princess

1 1 2 3
2
3
4
5
6

4 5 6

4 Complete the sentences with the words listed below.

green red sapphires opal iridescent

1 Rubies are , and their price is primarily determined by colour.
2 are blue and are commonly used in jewellery.
3 The gemstone – Emerald – is mined in many countries around the world.
4 is the natural gemstone of Australia, which produces 97% of the world’s supply.
5 Quality pearls are almost always .

18 Jewellery
GLOSSARY

4 Cs A universal grading system developed Baby/Youth Describes items small in

by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) to scale to be worn by babies, toddlers, and teens.
evaluate the quality of a diamond. The 4 Cs are Earring posts are usually shorter and are often
Carat, Color, Clarity, and Cut. threaded or have some sort of safety clasp.
Rings are usually sizes 0–3. Bracelets are
Accent Gemstones Gemstones usually 5–5½" long. Necklaces are usually
within a jewelry design that are not the main 15"–16" long.
focus, but instead accent or complement the
center gemstone and side gemstones. Bail An arched (often oval, teardrop, or
Accent gemstones are typically comprised d-shaped) metal component used to hang a
of melee gemstones. pendant from a chain or cord. It is meant to slide
onto the chain rather than being soldered to it so
Alloy A mixture of two or more metals to that the pendant moves independently from the
create more desirable characteristics and/or chain and is not a permanent part of the chain
added strength. or cord.

Anneal A process used to bring metal Band A ring, usually uniform in width,
alloys to a desired consistency, texture, or with no distinguishable “top”; may be set
hardness by gradually heating and cooling. with gemstones.

Anniversary Band A ring of three or Bangle Bracelet A closed, rigid

more diamonds or gemstones, typically set in bracelet – with or without hinge and clasp –
a channel or prong setting. The stones partially that slides over the hand.
encircle the ring.
Baroque An irregular-shaped stone or
Antique Jewelry pearl. Also an art style characterized by
Jewelry that is 100 years old or more. ornate detail.

Anticlastic A form that is curved in two Bar Set A setting technique where the
directions opposite one another (saddle-shaped). gemstone is secured between two parallel bars,
See Synclastic. while the sides of the gem remain open.

Art Deco A decorative style of the 1920s Base Metal A term informally referring
and 1930s that features bold geometric shapes, to non-precious metals (such as copper, zinc, tin,
linear patterns, and diverse colors. nickel, lead, or iron), which are commonly used
in costume jewelry.
Art Nouveau A decorative style from the
late 1800s to early 1900s characterized by free- Basket Setting A type of prong setting
flowing lines and stylized natural forms such as with open sides similar to a basket weave, that
flowers, leaves, and feminine form. allows the lower portion of the gemstone to
be visible.
Assay The process used when determining
the proportions of precious metal contained in a Basse-taille An enameling technique in
piece of gold, silver or other alloys. which a low-relief pattern is created in metal by
engraving or chasing, then the entire pattern is
Attribute A characteristic of a product that filled with translucent enamel (similar to French
can include a color, design, style, form, shape, “low height” champlevé). See Enamel.
or feature.
Bead A small, usually spherical component
Azured A mounting that leaves a made from a variety of materials, which may be
gemstone's pavilion facets uncovered so that partially drilled or fully drilled. A full drilled bead
light can enter. will have one or more holes through it, allow-
ing it to be strung singularly or with others in a
sequence. Beads in shapes other than round are
sometimes described as “fancy.”

64 | stuller.com
Bead Set A method for securing a Bridge Accent A design element
gemstone where a small bur of metal is located beneath the center stone that can be
raised with a graver and pushed over the seen when looking at the ring in the through
edge of the gemstone. finger view.

Belcher A ring mounting in which the Bright-Cut A metal engraving technique

prongs for the setting are formed from created by chiseling the metal with a polished
the shank of the ring so that the gemstone tool creating a highly reflective surface.
does not extend above the circumference
of the shank. Brilliance Pertaining to diamonds, this
term has two components: brightness and
Bezel-Set A method for securing a contrast. Brightness refers to the amount of
gemstone in which a band of metal encircles light returned from the diamond’s surroundings
the girdle of the gemstone and is folded over and back to the observer. To be brilliant, a
the gem to hold it in place. diamond also needs contrast, intensity of
the white light from the crown of a polished
Birthstone A precious or semi-precious diamond or other gemstone.
gemstone popularly associated with the month
of birth. Brilliance is affected by: hardness,

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
January- Garnet refractive index, reflectivity, polish, luster,
February- Amethyst and proportions.
March- Aquamarine
April- Diamond Brooch A piece of jewelry that may
May- Emerald be fastened to clothing, usually with a
June- Pearl mechanism that consists of a straight, sharp
July- Ruby pin finding, a hinge, and a catch.
August- Peridot
September- Sapphire Bulk Chain Chain that does not include
October- Opal a clasp assembly. It has raw, cut ends and
November- Citrine cannot be worn in its current state.
December- Topaz
Buttercup Setting A setting
Body Jewelry Jewelry that usually consisting of six prongs connected to
was manufactured specifically for use in a scalloped-shaped base that resembles
body piercing. a buttercup flower.

Bracelet An ornamental band or circlet Bypass A ring mounting design in which

for the wrist, arm, or sometimes for the ankle. the two sides of the band do not meet in a
straight line, but overlap or crisscross each
Bracelet Slide A bead-type adornment other as seen in the top/looking down view.
designed with two sets of holes to allow it to
be strung onto a bracelet constructed of two Cabochon
rows of chain. The resulting bracelet is known A polished, convex-cut, unfaceted gemstone.
as a slide bracelet.
CAD/CAM
Bridal Set A matching set of rings that Computer-aided design and manufacturing.
includes an engagement ring and a wedding
band, which are worn stacked together. Cameo A design cut in relief, usually into
a hard gemstone or shell.
Bridge The structural portion of a
mounting that connects one side of the shank Carat A unit of weight for precious and
to the other. semi-precious gemstones, equal to 200
milligrams. See 4 Cs.

stuller.com | 65
GLOSSARY

Cathedral Setting A style of mount- Chevron or V-Prong A prong in the

ing in which the sides of the ring arch above the shape of a V usually found on gemstone shapes
band on either side of the stone as seen in the with sharp corners.
through finger view.
Choker A non-rigid necklace that fits snugly
Catch See Pin-Catch. around the throat, usually 14"–15" in length.

Center Gemstone The main gemstone Claddagh A traditional Irish ring design
in the design which is usually the focal point of depicting two hands holding a crowned heart,
the jewelry. representing friendship or love.

Chain A series of connected metal links or Clarity A term used to describe the absence
loops with an attached clasp assembly. or presence of internal or external flaws in a
gemstone. See 4 Cs.
Clasp Assembly The mechanism
used to secure a chain and typically consists of Clasp A mechanism used to attach objects or
a chain end and clasp. parts together, such as both ends of a chain.

Chain End The hoop located on one end Claw (Prong) A wire used to fasten and
of a chain, through which the other end can hold a gemstone in a setting.
be looped.
Cloisonné An ancient enameling
Chain Tag A flat metal piece with a hole technique in which a design is outlined on a
in each end where the quality mark or trademark metal base with bent wire of metal strips
can be stamped. (typically soldered to the base) forming
individual sections or compartments that are
Champlevé An enameling technique filled in with colored enamel (French “cloison”
of decoration in which the design is made by = cell or partition). See Enamel.
lines or cells cut into a metal base. Similar to
cloisonné, but the partitions are part of the base. Cluster Multiple gemstones grouped
See Enamel. together in a setting, which may or may not
overlap each other.
Chandelier Earring One of a pair of
long ornate earrings that dangle from the Clutch Back See Earring Clutch.
earlobes, usually dropping more than one level.
Dura Colbalt A corrosion and
Channel-Set A setting style in which a wear-resistant contemporary metal alloy
series of gemstones are set close together into consisting of cobalt and chromium.
grooves in two parallel walls.
Collar A rigid choker-style necklace that fits
Charm A miniature object that may depict snugly around the neck.
symbols, figures, letters, etc., usually attached
to a bracelet using a spring-type clasp or a Color Grade As it pertains to
jump ring. diamonds, color is one of the characteristics
A Dangle Charm has a jump ring or used to define the quality of a diamond.
bail-type clasp allowing it to swing to The GIA color scale ranges from D to Z,
and fro. D being considered colorless and higher in
A Bead Charm is a large, fancy bead value. See 4 Cs.
with large holes allowing it to be strung
onto a bracelet. Comfort-Fit
Describes the convex interior of a ring or band.
Charm Bracelet A bracelet to which
charms may be or have been attached. Contemporary Designs that are
up-to-date with current trends in the industry
with a modern flair.

66 | stuller.com
Contemporary Metal Depth In reference to a gemstone,
Metal alloys and industrial metals that are not it is the length from table to culet.
part of the traditional “precious metal” group. See Table/Culet.
These low-cost alternatives include, but are
not limited to, titanium, tungsten carbide, Design Element An attribute type
stainless steel, and cobalt chrome. used to describe features of a jewelry item.

Contour Band See Shadow Band. Diameter In reference to a gemstone,

it is the overall width.
Costume Jewelry Jewelry made
with inexpensive materials or imitation gems. Diamond-Cut Chain Sharp edges
cut onto the surface of a chain so that the
Cord A long, thin, flexible strand that links flash and catch the light.
can be used instead of chain for necklaces
and bracelets. Cord can be made from satin, Die Struck A process for manufacturing
leather, rubber, and other alternative materials. heads in which the item is stamped under
extreme pressure, resulting in a work-
Crown As it refers to a cut gemstone, the hardened rigid part. See Anneal.
faceted area of a gemstone located above the

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
girdle, but below the table. Dispersion The power of a diamond
when breaking up its light into its constituent
Cuff Bracelet A rigid bracelet designed colors. See Fire.
with an opening for easily slipping the brace-
let onto the wrist. Drop Earring An earring that extends
below the earlobe and is stationary.
Cuff Link A decorative fastener – similar
to a button – which is used to secure the ends DWT Abbreviation for pennyweight.
of a shirt cuff. It may consist of two buttons There are 20 pennyweights in a ounce (troy).
or button-like parts connected with a chain or See Pennyweight.
peg that passes through two slits in the cuff.
Ear Trim An earring designed to follow
Culet the contour of the ear.
Refers to the base point of a diamond.
Earring A piece of jewelry worn on the
Cut As it refers to a round diamond, cut lobe or edge of the ear. Popular earring types
is the factor that determines the diamond‘s are chandelier, cluster, dangle, drop, earring
brilliance. Cut qualifies the brilliance, fire, and jacket, ear trim, huggie, hinged, hoop, lever
scintillation of a round, brilliant cut diamond back, and stud.
by analyzing the diamond‘s symmetry,
proportions, and polish. See 4 Cs. Earring Jacket An adornment for the
ear that is an accessory to an earring, de-
CZ Short for Cubic Zirconia, a man-made signed to be secured to the lobe with a stud.
gemstone created to simulate a diamond.
Approximately 64% heavier than diamond. Earring Post A pin-like or wire finding
attached to the back of an earring that passes
Dangle Earring An earring that through a pierced earlobe. Examples included
extends below the earlobe and is designed screw posts and friction posts.
to swing to and fro.
Earring Back A disc or bead with
Danish Modern A design style using a hole, through which an earring post is
elements from the period of the 1960s. The threaded for the purpose of securing the
designs are of the “form follows function” earring to the earlobe. Examples include nut,
genre and are minimalist in presentation. screw, tension, omega, and clutch.
See Minimalist.

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GLOSSARY

Earring Clutch A type of earring back Fashion Ring A type of ring worn to
that attaches to an earring post after it passes express style or a current trend.
through a hole in the earlobe. The earring clutch
is used to secure an earring in place. Filigree Lace-like ornamental work
formed from thin wires of intricately-arranged
Earwire A wire used for pierced earrings. intertwined precious metal. May be plain,
Popular styles include French hooks, lever back, twisted, or plaited.
and kidney.
Finding A component or part used in the
Edwardian Characteristically containing making of a piece of jewelry.
lace-like, fine filigree work with milgrain set-
tings. Popular from 1900-1914, it was usually Finish A decorative texture applied to the
produced in platinum for strength. Intricate, airy, surface to enhance its appearance.
and feminine. See Filigree and Milgrain.
Fire Dispersed light that appears as flashes
Enamel An opaque or semi-transparent of spectral colors (rainbow) on a diamond.
glass or substance applied to a metal surface for See Dispersion.
protection or ornamental purposes.
Fishtail Setting A setting technique
Engagement Ring Traditionally worn consisting of four prominent triangular corners
only by women (especially in Western cultures), cut from the existing shank that hold the
an engagement ring is a ring indicating that the gemstone in place. When viewed from the
person wearing it is engaged to be married. through finger view it looks like the tail of a fish.

Enhancer An enhancer attaches to an Fitted Band See Shadow Band.

existing jewelry item to create a new look. Some
examples of enhancers include ring enhancers, Flush-Set A setting technique in
pearl enhancers, and pendant enhancers. which the gemstone is embedded within the
band and the metal from the band is used to
Engraving The process or art of cutting or secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the
carving a design into a hard surface. gem visible.

Eternity Band A band set with one or Fluted An ornamental groove in a surface
more continuous rows of gemstones that which creates visual interest.
completely encircle the band.
Freeform
Facet The flat, polished surface of a An asymmetrical, flowing shape or design.
gemstone that affects a gemstone's brilliance
and sparkle. French Hook An earwire shaped like a
hook used for pierced drop earrings.
Fancy Describes any jewelry that
incorporates whimsy, fun, and innovation in Gallery
its design. It is trendy and stylish and may not The negative space located on a head/setting.
become a classic or be considered a basic item.
It makes a great fashion statement or Gemstone A mineral or organic
conversation starter. material with sufficient beauty, rarity, and dura-
bility to be set into jewelry.
Family Jewelry A jewelry item created
with personal significance to the family usually Gallery Rail/Bearing The metal rim
using birthstones to represent each member of located on a head/setting, below the girdle
the family. of a gemstone.

Fancy Wedding Band A wedding

band with more decorative styling than a simple,
traditional band.

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Gemstone Shape Referring to Hammer-Set See Flush Set.
the potential options of shape and size that
a gemstone can be cut. The outline form of Halo A jewelry style featuring a central
a gemstone, not to be confused with the gemstone surrounded by a border of smaller
faceting pattern. gemstones.

Genuine Stone A gemstone that is Head The part of a jewelry item that
produced by nature without interference from secures the gemstone. This is sometimes
man, other than cutting or fashioning. Do not referred to as the setting.
confuse “natural” with untreated gemstones.
Hidden Bail A bail located
Girdle The narrow band or edge inconspicuously on the reverse side of a
separating the upper and lower faceted pendant, so that the pendant appears to float
portions of a gem. on the chain or cord. See Bail.

Gold A precious, yellow, metallic element, Hinge A pin that fits through pieces of
highly malleable and ductile and not subject to metal tubing that allow an item to articulate.
oxidation or corrosion. Hinges are commonly found on lockets
and boxes.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Gram A gram is a metric system unit of
mass/weight. One ounce (troy) is equivalent to Hoop Earring A (usually) circular, ring-
31.10 grams. like earring that may be a complete circle or
may only go part of the way around.
Graver A tool used to cut designs into
metal and for precision gemstone setting that Huggie Earring A small hoop ear-
is made of highly-polished steel. ring that fits closely around the ear lobe. It is
thicker than a standard hoop so that it appears
Granulation A surface adornment to be “hugging” the ear lobe. It is designed
technique in which minute grains or tiny balls with a hinge at the base of the hoop, facing
of precious metal are applied to a surface in the shoulder, and a groove in the post enables
patterns to create visual interest. it to snap into place to close securely.

Guilloché An enameling technique in Hypo-Allergenic A term used to

which precise, intricate, symmetrical patterns describe items (in this case jewelry) that
are mechanically engraved into a metal base; cause or are claimed to cause fewer allergic
sometimes referred to as “engine turning.” reactions. Depending on the allergen of the
It was named after a French engineer who subject, these may include metals such as
invented a machine to replicate these precise stainless steel, titanium, gold, etc.
patterns that were previously done by hand
(Example: Faberge’ eggs). Illusion-Set A setting technique pat-
ented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933 (Mystery
Gypsy-Set See Flush Set. Setting) in which a diamond is placed in a col-
let of reflective, highly-polished metal so that
Half Bezel-Set A method for securing it appears to be part of the gemstone in order
a gemstone in which a band of metal partially to enhance the perceived size of the diamond.
encircles the girdle of the gemstone and is
folded over the gem to hold it in place. Inlay The insertion of pieces of gem-
stones, wood, ivory, etc. into slots created on
Hallmark A quality mark indicating pre- a surface for embellishment.
cious metal content (10kt, 14kt, 18kt,
platinum, etc). Typically stamped on a jewelry Invisible-Set A setting technique with
item in an inconspicuous location (back, inside no visible prongs or supports. The gemstones
ring shank, etc.). FTC requires the manufac- are grooved so that a thin wire framework
turer or distributor of said product to disclose holds the gemstones in place.
their identity by accompanying the quality
mark with a trademark or company name.

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GLOSSARY

Jump Ring A wire ring of any size, Medical ID Jewelry Designed with a
usually round or oval in shape, used for medically identifiable emblem and engraved to
attaching jewelry parts. inform others of medical issues such as drug and
food allergies and other medical conditions.
Karat A unit of measure of the purity of gold.
Pure gold equals 24 karats. Melee Classification used in the sorting
of diamonds weighing less than .17 carats
Key Ring A device for holding keys or 17 points each.
together usually consisting of a metal ring.
Micro Pavé A highly precise setting
Kinetic Jewelry designed to move, technique similar to pavé but using extremely
rotate, or revolve. Moving parts are trapped small gemstones.
and cannot usually be removed from the main
jewelry object. Milgrain
Having the edge shaped into fine beading.
Kit An assortment of products, often
components, sold together, usually for back of Minimalist A term used to describe
store use, often at a lower price than if the items a movement in design and architecture around
were purchased individually. the 1960s and 1970s, where the subject is
reduced as much as possible to only its
Lapel Pin A small piece of jewelry necessary elements.
with a post-type pin affixed to it with a clutch
mechanism to secure it. May also be assembled Moissanite A rare mineral discovered
with a small brooch-type, hinged pin assembly. by Henri Moissan, later synthesized in the
A lapel pin is usually smaller than an inch laboratory and used as a high-quality
in length. diamond substitute.

Lariat Necklace A long cord-like Money Clip A folded clip used to

necklace without a clasp, usually looped into a keep folded cash and/or credit cards in lieu
knot, thus allowing the ends to hang down in of a wallet.
the front.
Mounting A jewelry item that has stone
Lever Back A spring-loaded closure on settings, but in which no stones have been set.
the back of some earrings. When in the closed It requires no further assembly work; the
position, it secures the earring to the earlobe.  exception being an unset semi-mount mounting
which requires a head to be attached.
Line Bracelet A flexible bracelet that
can be unclasped and laid out to form a “line.” Neckwear A piece of jewelry that may be
The links are usually joined by hinge pins. a string of gemstones, beads, jewels, etc., or a
A tennis bracelet is a type of line bracelet. metal chain worn around the neck.

Link Bracelet A bracelet made from Niobium

connecting or linking various, sometimes similar, A silver-gray contemporary metal.
components together. The links are usually
interlocking, eliminating the need for hinge pins. Notched Band See Shadow Band.

Locket A small, decorative case with one Nugget Ring/Jewelry

or more spaces to hold a picture or memento, Jewelry designed to mimic and exaggerate the
designed to be suspended from a chain. May look of a native lump of precious metal, usually
also be incorporated into the design of a ring yellow gold.
or bracelet.
Omega Clip A wire attached and
Looking Down/Top View A way to hinged on the back of an earring and used
describe looking at a ring from the top down or as a mechanism to hold the earring in place.
bird’s eye view.

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Openwork See Pierced. Pin Assembly Jewelry findings used
to secure a pin to the wearer. This assembly
Organic A design style using free- is comprised of a pin-stem and pin-catch.
flowing curves and surfaces similar to those
from nature such as in leaves, vines, etc. Pin-Catch
The securing mechanism for a pin-stem.
Packages/Kits See Selling Systems.
Pin Stem  A sharply-pointed pin on a
Patina Discoloration that forms naturally hinge that is suitable for piercing fabric or
over time on metals such as silver and bronze. clothing. It is secured with a pin-catch.
Patinas may also be introduced artificially
through certain chemicals for aesthetic value. Platinum A heavy, non-corrosive white
metal with high tensile strength which dulls
Pavé A field of bead-set gemstones closely as it is worn but holds its detail for many
set, usually in rows, whereby the entire years, giving it heirloom characteristics.
surface of the jewelry is covered or pavéd.
Plique-à-Jour An enameling tech-
Pavilion The lower part of a cut nique by which the design is outlined with
gemstone below the girdle. metal and filled in with colored enamels, but

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
with no backing so that the effect is similar to
Pearl Enhancer A pendant with a a stained glass window.
hinged, clasp-type bail that allows it to be
attached to a pearl or bead necklace, or any Precious Metals Metals that are rare
necklace that doesn’t allow a pendant to be and have high economic value. Gold, silver,
slid onto it. platinum, and palladium.

Peg Head A setting with a peg attached Precious Gemstone The group of
to it that can be easily attached to a jewelry gemstones consisting of diamonds, rubies,
item by inserting the peg into a drilled hole. sapphires and emeralds.
Peg heads are commonly used in semi-mount
engagement rings. Primary Metal The metal alloy that,
when describing a two-tone item, makes up
Pendant An adornment designed to be the majority of the weight of the jewelry item.
suspended from a necklace. See Secondary Metal.

Pendant Enhancer A pendant Profile A profile is a cross sectional

designed so that another pendant, usually a view. Flat inside round, comfort-fit, inside
solitaire, can be suspended inside of it. round, flat, knife-edge, etc., are examples of
band profiles.
Pennyweight Pennyweight is a
common weight unit of measure used in the Promise Ring A ring worn to show
valuation and measurement of precious commitment to a monogamous relationship,
metals. One pennyweight equals 1⁄20 of a usually set with one or more diamond melee.
ounce (troy). See DWT.
Prong-Set A setting technique in
Pierced In jewelry it refers to perforated which a gemstone is held in place by metal
or openwork designs with regular patterns of projections or tines, called prongs.
openings and holes.
Prototype An example of a piece
Pin Any type of jewelry that is fastened of jewelry created from inexpensive,
to clothing using a sharp, pointed post and a non-precious materials.
catch or clasp. May be a brooch, lapel pin, or
tie tack. Puzzle Ring Several rings that fit
together to create a single ring.

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GLOSSARY

Remount The act of removing gems from Semi-Precious Gemstone

one jewelry item and setting them into a new A gemstone that is not a diamond, emerald,
jewelry item. The term remount is sometimes sapphire, or ruby – historically thought to be
used interchangeably with ”semi-mount,“ when less valuable than a precious gemstone, i.e.,
referring to jewelry designed for this purpose. amethyst, peridot, aquamarine, etc.

Ring A piece of jewelry worn on the finger. Semi-Mount Ring

Very small rings may be worn on the toes. with Head Any engagement ring set and
sold to the jeweler with side stones or melee,
Ring Guard A ring designed with two but without the center stone. The fixed head for
shanks assembled so that a solitaire ring may the center stone is in place.
be inserted into it.
Semi-Mount Ring
Riviera A necklace style comprised of without Head Any engagement ring
flexible gemstone links which are typically set and sold to the jeweler with side stones or
tapered in size. melee but without the center stone. The head
for the center stone is NOT in place. May also
Rolling Ring A ring usually consisting of be referred to as a set shank since it is not a
three or more bands. As the ring is slid on and completely assembled ring.
off the finger, the bands roll over one another.
Setting The act of securing a gemstone.
Roundel/Rondelle A doughnut-shaped The term setting is sometimes used
or flattened, disk-shaped bead that is used as a interchangeably with head and/or mounting.
spacer or an accent between other beads.
Shadow Band A wedding band
Rub Over See Flush Set. designed and contoured to be worn with a spe-
cific engagement ring. The design is such that it
Safety Clasp A secondary closure would not usually be worn on its own.
added to some bracelets and necklaces for
extra security. Shank A ring designed for, but stocked
without a center head and that is not complete
Scalloped-Set A technique for setting without such head. The part of a ring that
gemstones in which the prongs are created encircles the finger.
from the shank. Fishtail is one example of a
scalloped setting. Shepherds Hook See French Hook.

Scintillation The intense sparkles and Shoulders The upper part of a ring shank.
flashes of light visible when either the person
viewing the diamond or the lighting moves. Side Stones Gemstones that
complement and place emphasis on the center
Scooped Band A band with a gemstone. Side gemstones are typically larger
concave groove on the inside of the band, than accent gemstones.
designed to lessen the weight of the piece,
therefore lowering the price. Side View A way to describe looking at a
ring from the side.
Secondary Metal When describing a
two-tone item, the metal alloy that makes up the Silver A precious metal that is
minority of the weight of the jewelry item. See commonly alloyed to create the more durable
Primary Metal. alloy known as sterling silver.

Selling System A pre-merchandised Signet Ring A ring with letters (usually

collection of items marketed in a packaged one’s initials), or a design carved into it. A
format, designed as a turn-key sales solution. college ring is an example of a signet ring.

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Sizing Area The area at the bottom of Titanium A strong, low-density, highly
a ring shank where metal can be inserted or corrosion-resistant and lustrous white element
removed to reduce or increase the finger size that occurs widely in igneous rocks and is
of the ring. mainly used to alloy aircraft metals. It is also a
popular choice for piercing jewelry.
Slide Pendant A bail-less pendant.
May incorporate holes into the design to allow Trellis Setting A structure of open
passage of a chain or cord. latticework especially used as a gallery
support for gemstones.
Solitaire A piece of jewelry containing or
designed to hold a single diamond. Trim A decorative finding that can be
added to another jewelry component to create
Stainless Steel A contemporary a finished jewelry item.
metal (a form of steel containing chromium
and/or nickel) resistant to tarnishing and rust. Troy Ounce A unit of troy weight,
used for weighing precious metals. The ounce
Station Necklace contains 20 pennyweights (dwt) each of 24
A necklace with repeating elements. grains. One troy ounce is equivalent to
31.10 grams.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Sterling Silver A precious
metal alloy of 92.5% silver and copper, Tungsten A contemporary metal
or another material. containing equal parts of tungsten and
carbon atoms.
Strip Setting A metal strip jewelry
finding that is usually comprised of repeating Two-Tone A jewelry item
patterns in which gemstones can be set. comprised of two different metals or alloys
of different color.
Stud Earring Jewelry attached to the
ear with an earring post through a piercing Unset Semi-Mount A ring mounting
and secured with an earring back. designed to hold side stones or melee, but in
which no stones have been set and the head
Synclastic A surface or a portion of a for the center stone is NOT in place. May also
surface that is curved towards the same side be referred to as a shank.
in all directions.
Vermeil Gold-plated or gilded silver. The
Table Referring to the top, flat part of the FTC allows a product to be described as "ver-
cut of a gemstone. meil" if it consists of a base of sterling silver
coated or plated on all significant surfaces
Tennis Bracelet See Line Bracelet. with gold or gold alloy of not less than 10
karat fineness, that is of substantial thickness
Tension-Set A setting that holds the and a minimum thickness throughout equiva-
gemstone in place entirely with compression/ lent to 21⁄2 microns of fine gold.
tension and not prongs.
Wedding Band See Band.
Three-Stone Ring A ring consisting
mainly of three larger stones. White Gold A white-colored alloy of
gold with nickel, platinum, or another metal.
Through Finger View
A way to describe looking at a ring through Work-Hardened The change in
the finger hole. hardness of metal due to repeated cold flexing
or stress. The annealing process can be used
Tie Tack/Tie Clip A piece of jewelry to relieve the stress.
used to hold a necktie in place.

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