Study Unit

Outboard Engines

This sneak preview of your study material has been

prepared in advance of the book's actual online release.
 iii

Preview

An outboard engine is a special type of small engine that’s used to drive a boat. Many small-engine
repair technicians never work on outboard engines. However, if you live in an area where water
sports and fishing are common recreational activities, you may be called on to repair outboard
engines. You may even decide to specialize in the repair of outboard engines.

While it’s true that you may or may not work on outboard engines, it’s always useful to have addi-
tional skills that you can use in your business. And, since outboard engines are very similar to the
small engines you’ve already learned about, it won’t be difficult for you to learn the few additional
skills you’ll need to repair outboard engines.

This study unit will cover the components of the outboard engine, the basic operation of outboard
engines, and how to troubleshoot, maintain, and repair these engines.

When you complete this study unit, you’ll be able to

• Identify the main components of an outboard engine

• List the parts found in the powerhead, midsection, and lower unit of an outboard engine
• Explain the basic operating principles of outboard engines
• Understand the special requirements of outboard engine fuel systems and cooling systems
• List the steps in an outboard engine tune-up
• Explain the procedures used to troubleshoot and repair outboard engine ignition systems, fuel
systems, cooling systems, and drives
 v

Contents

INTRODUCTION TO THE OUTBOARD ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

What Is an Outboard Engine?
The Parts of a Boat
The Parts of an Outboard Engine
Outboard Engine Operation
Outboard Engine Installation and Adjustment
The Internal Components of an Outboard Engine

THE POWERHEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Outboard Engine Fuel Systems
Outboard Engine Ignition Systems
Outboard Engine Starting Systems

THE MIDSECTION AND THE LOWER UNIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Outboard Engine Drives
Outboard Engine Cooling Systems
Propellers

OUTBOARD ENGINE TUNE-UPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Performing a Compression Check
Inspecting and Cleaning the Powerhead
Adjusting and Checking the Ignition System
Checking the Fuel System
Synchronizing the Throttle
Lubricating the Engine
Performing a Tank Test
Breaking In a New Outboard Engine
Storing the Engine

TROUBLESHOOTING OUTBOARD ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

General Troubleshooting Procedures
Troubleshooting the Ignition System
Troubleshooting the Electrical System
Troubleshooting the Fuel System
Troubleshooting Mechanical Problems in the Powerhead
Troubleshooting Mechanical Problems in the Lower Unit

POWER CHECK ANSWERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

EXAMINATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
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Outboard Engines

INTRODUCTION TO THE OUTBOARD ENGINE

What Is an Outboard Engine?

An outboard engine is a special type of small engine that’s used to drive a
boat. Small outboard engines are used to drive small fishing and pleasure
boats, while larger outboard engines are used on power boats. An out-
board engine is mounted over the back of a boat with its propeller hang-
ing down into the water. The engine is called an “outboard” because the
entire engine is fastened on the outside of a boat.
In contrast, an inboard engine is a larger, automotive-type engine that’s
mounted inside a boat. The propeller shaft of an inboard engine extends
out through the body of the boat into the water. Inboard engines are typi-
cally used on very large, high-speed boats. We’ll only discuss the opera-
tion and repair of outboard engines in this study unit.
In some areas where water sports and fishing are common recreational
activities, outdoor power equipment technicians will often be called on to
repair outboard engines. Some technicians will even specialize in the re-
pair of outboard engines. This type of business may be seasonal or year-
round, depending on the climate. Also, depending on the type of shop
you have and the type of work you specialize in, a customer may bring in
an entire boat to be worked on; however, it’s more common for the cus-
tomer to remove the engine from the boat and bring it in for repairs.
While it’s true that you may not often work on outboard engines, it’s al-
ways useful to have additional skills that you can use in your business.
And, since outboard engines are very similar to the small engines you’ve
already learned about, it won’t be difficult for you to learn the skills
you’ll need to repair outboard engines.
Outboard engines are available in power ratings from 2 horsepower to
250 horsepower, and with one, two, four, or six cylinders. The engine
cylinders may be positioned in an in-line (side-by-side) formation in the
engine block, or in a V-type formation.
The operating principles of most outboard engines are the same, no mat-
ter what their size or power output. Outboard engines are very similar in
operation to other types of small engines—the primary difference is the
addition of the driveshaft and propeller that are used to drive the engine.
Also, outboard engines are cooled by water, unlike the air-cooled small
engines you’ve studied in previous lessons.
2 Outboard Engines

At the present time, most of the outboard engines in common use are
two-cycle engines. However, because oil and fuel are mixed together for
use in two-cycle engines, these engines can allow pollutants to be re-
leased into the water during operation.
To protect the environment, therefore, a movement is now under way to
replace two-cycle outboard engines with four-cycle outboard engines.
Soon, all brand-new outboard engines will be four-cycle engines. How-
ever, older two-cycle engines will continue to be used by their owners.
Since outboard engines usually have long life spans and are typically
used by their owners for many years, you’ll no doubt be working on
two-cycle outboards for a long time to come.
Four-cycle outboard engines are very similar to the other four-cycle small
engines you’ve already studied, and the same methods are used to repair
them. Therefore, we won’t repeat all that information here. We’ll primar-
ily concentrate on the repair of two-cycle outboard engines in this study
unit.

The Parts of a Boat

Before we begin to discuss the construction and operation of outboard
engines, let’s take a moment to review some common boating terms. You’ll
need to be familiar with these terms in order to understand the servicing
and maintenance instructions in manufacturers’ service manuals.
Figure 1A displays a top view of a boat. Notice that the left side of the
boat is called the port side of the boat. The left side of an outboard engine
is called the port side of the engine. The right side of the boat and engine
is called the starboard side. The front of a boat is called the bow, and the
rear of the boat is called the stern.
Figure 1B shows a side view of the same boat. The hull is the main body
of the boat. An outboard engine is mounted on the rear of a boat in a sec-
tion called the transom. At the base of the transom is an area called the keel.

The Parts of an Outboard Engine

Now that you know some basic boating terminology, let’s look at the
component parts of a typical outboard engine. Figure 2 shows the exte-
rior of a typical outboard engine. Figure 2A shows a starboard view of
the engine, and Figure 2B shows a port view of the engine. Take a mo-
ment to study the two views and familiarize yourself with the names of
the exterior parts.
This engine is a two-cylinder, water-cooled engine with a remote fuel tank.
(That is, the fuel tank is separate from the engine, not built-in.) Inside the
engine, the two cylinders are positioned horizontally. The two pistons
are connected to a vertical crankshaft, and a driveshaft is splined to the
end of the crankshaft. The driveshaft runs down the entire length of the
engine and ends near the propeller. The lower end of the driveshaft is
then splined to a right-angle drive gear assembly, and the drive gear as-
sembly is connected to the horizontal propeller shaft.
Outboard Engines 3

FIGURE 1—The parts of a boat

are labeled in this illustration.
Figure 1A shows a top view of
the boat, and
Figure 1B shows a side view.

The propeller is connected to the end of the propeller shaft. When the
engine is running, the turning motion of the crankshaft is transmitted
through the driveshaft to the right-angle drive gear assembly, and from
there to the propeller shaft and the propeller. When the propeller turns,
the boat moves forward.

FIGURE 2—The exterior parts

of a typical outboard engine
are shown here. Figure 2A
shows a starboard-side view
of the engine, and Figure 2B
shows a port-side view.
4 Outboard Engines

An outboard engine is divided into three basic areas: the powerhead, the
midsection, and the lower unit. The powerhead is the upper area of the
engine that contains the flywheel, cylinder head, cylinders, pistons,
connecting rods, crankshaft, crankcase, bearings, ignition system, and
carburetor. If the engine is an electric start model, the powerhead will
also contain the starter motor. The midsection of the engine includes the
stern brackets, the exhaust housing, water-cooling passages, and the
manual steering arm assembly. The lower unit at the bottom of the engine
contains the engine’s right-angle drive components, gearcase, propeller,
and water pump. These areas are illustrated in Figure 3. Study the loca-
tion of each component in the figure carefully.

FIGURE 3—The locations of

the powerhead, the mid-
section, and the lower unit
are shown in this illustration.

Note that some reference books and outboard engine service manuals
don’t use the term “midsection.” Instead, these manuals use the term
“lower unit” to refer to both the midsection and lower unit components.
This difference in terms isn’t important as long as you know the names
and functions of the separate engine components.
The powerhead of an outboard engine is covered by an engine cover. On
many engines, the engine cover is divided into a lower section and an
upper section. The upper engine cover covers the entire top of the engine
and helps to silence the engine. The upper engine cover also prevents the
operator from coming in contact with the moving parts of the engine.
Outboard Engines 5

The lower engine cover is sandwiched between the upper engine cover and
the exhaust housing. The lower engine cover often holds the steering
handle, the starter handle (or the electric start switch), and the fuel line
connector. In larger outboard engines, the remote control cables will pass
through openings in the lower engine cover.

Outboard Engine Operation

Because the focus of this course is small engine repair, we won’t go into a
great deal of detail about boat operation here. However, in order to un-
derstand the repair of outboard engines, there are a few basic concepts
that you should be familiar with.
Let’s take a moment to examine how an outboard engine is controlled by
the operator. On smaller outboard engines, a manual steering handle is
used to turn the engine and drive assembly. This action causes the boat
to turn to the right and left. Larger engines, however, may be steered re-
motely. In a remote steering arrangement, an automotive-type steering
wheel is used to drive the boat, and plastic-covered steel control cables
connect the steering wheel to a linkage on the engine. A simplified illus-
tration of a remote steering system is shown in Figure 4.

FIGURE 4—A simplified view

of a remote steering system
is shown here. This type of
steering system would be
seen on a large, high-speed
boat. Smaller outboard
engines, such as those used
on small fishing boats, are
steered manually with
steering handles.
6 Outboard Engines

On a smaller boat that’s steered manually, the steering handle will also
be used to control the boat’s speed. The end of the steering handle is
turned back and forth to change the engine’s speed. On a larger boat that
has remote steering, the speed will also be controlled remotely. A remote
speed control will contain the ignition starter (a key or toggle switch) and
a lever that’s pulled back and forth to change the speed. The remote con-
trol is connected by cables to the ignition system and the engine’s speed
control linkage. Figure 5 shows the parts of a typical remote speed control.

FIGURE 5—An exterior view of

the parts of a remote speed
control is shown here.

Outboard Engine Installation and Adjustment

The proper installation and adjustment of an outboard engine are very
important to engine performance and fuel economy. In addition, an im-
properly installed engine is a safety hazard. The first considerations
when selecting or installing an outboard engine are the size of the engine,
the engine’s horsepower rating, and the horsepower rating of the boat. If
an engine is too heavy and powerful for a boat, the boat may lift right out
of the water and flip over at high speeds. The weight and power of an
oversized engine will also place a great strain on the structure of a boat
that’s rated for a smaller, less powerful engine. A boat’s identification
plate will list its maximum horsepower rating.
An engine is mounted to a boat’s transom by its stern brackets. The stern
brackets are held to the transom by one or two clamping screws. Figure 6
shows a closer view of the stern brackets mounted on a transom.
The height of a boat’s transom must be taken into consideration when se-
lecting and installing the engine. An engine must be installed so that its
propeller will be fully submerged at all times when the boat is running.
This ensures that maximum thrust is obtained from the propeller. It also
ensures that the water intake for the cooling system is fully submerged.
An engine that’s too long for a boat’s transom height will produce exces-
sive drag and reduce engine efficiency. Outboard engines are available in
different driveshaft lengths to fit different boat transoms.
Outboard Engines 7

Some outboard engines also have adjustable stern brackets that allow the
engine to be precisely positioned to obtain the best service.

FIGURE 6—This illustration

shows how an outboard
engine is mounted onto a
boat’s transom.

Figure 7 illustrates how a boat’s transom height relates to the mounting

of the engine.

FIGURE 7—This illustration

shows how the a boat’s
transom height affects the
mounting of an outboard
engine.
8 Outboard Engines

An outboard engine must be properly adjusted on the boat in order to

provide the best performance. One very important engine adjustment is
the trim angle. The trim angle of an outboard engine is the angle at which
an engine is tilted in toward (or outward from) a boat during operation
(Figure 8). The adjustment of the trim angle has a very great effect on
boat operation. The trim angle must be set correctly in order for a boat to
operate safely and efficiently. When a boat operator adjusts an engine’s
trim angle in or out, he or she is said to be “trimming” the engine.
In contrast, the tilt range of an engine is the distance that an engine can be
tilted up out of the water. The engine will be tilted to its maximum dis-
tance out of the water when the boat is beached or loaded on a trailer.
On smaller outboard engines, the trim angle can be adjusted manually by
moving the adjustment rod at the stern brackets. A grip is provided in
the engine cover that allows the engine to be tilted manually on a swivel
mount. However, a larger engine may contain a power trim-and-tilt unit.
This type of unit contains an electrically operated hydraulic pump that
changes the engine’s trim angle or tilts the engine out of the water.

FIGURE 8—The trim angle of

an outboard engine is the
angle at which the engine is
tilted toward or away from a
boat. The trim angle must be
set correctly in order for a
boat to operate properly.
Outboard Engines 9

The trim angle must be adjusted properly so that the boat will plane
correctly. At a certain speed, a boat is said to plane when the bow rises
higher than the stern, and the boat rides on the surface of the water rather
than plowing through it. Figure 9 illustrates how adjusting the trim angle
affects a boat’s performance. When an engine’s trim angle is set correctly,
the thrust developed by the propeller is parallel to the water surface
(Figure 9A). If the engine is angled too far away from the boat (Figure 9B),
the boat’s bow will rise too far up out of the water. If the engine is angled
too close to the boat, the bow will dig down into the water (Figure 9C).
Either of the incorrect adjustments will result in reduced engine efficiency,
greater fuel consumption, reduced speed, and reduced maneuverability.
In addition, if severe, these conditions could cause an accident.
FIGURE 9—The trim angle
of an outboard engine has
a strong effect on boat
operation. In Figure 9A, the
engine’s trim angle is set
correctly, and the thrust de-
veloped by the propeller is
parallel to the water surface.
In Figure 9B, the engine is
angled too far away from the
boat, and the boat’s bow
rises too far up out of the wa-
ter. In Figure 9C, the engine
is angled too close to the
boat, and the bow digs
down into the water.

Note that a power trim-and-tilt unit should only be used to tilt the engine
out of the water when the boat is being beached, launched, or loaded onto
a trailer. Serious accidents and damage to the boat transom can result if
the power tilt system is engaged while the boat is under way.
10 Outboard Engines

The Internal Components of an Outboard Engine

Now, let’s take a closer look at the internal components of an outboard
engine. Figure 10A shows a starboard-side view of a 4.5 horsepower out-
board engine. Figure 10B shows a port-side view of a 7.5 horsepower
outboard engine. The two engines are both two-cycle, water-cooled en-
gines, with manual rope-rewind starters and manual steering handles.
Both engines contain two cylinders. The 4.5 horsepower engine contains
a built-in fuel tank, while the 7.5 horsepower engine gets its fuel supply
from a remote fuel tank. The 4.5 horsepower engine weighs 51 pounds
and has a piston displacement of 5.28 cubic inches. The 7.5 horsepower
engine weighs 56 pounds and has a piston displacement of 10 cubic inches.
Note that the upper engine covers have been removed from these engines.
Both of these engines have the same basic structure. In each engine, the
two cylinders are positioned horizontally. The two pistons are connected
to a vertical crankshaft, and a driveshaft is splined to the end of the
crankshaft. The lower end of the driveshaft is then splined to a right-
angle drive gear assembly, and the drive gear assembly is then connected
to the horizontal propeller shaft and the propeller. Note that both engines
shown contain standard length driveshafts; however, engines with longer
driveshafts are available for use in boats that have higher transoms.
Take a moment to examine the engines in Figure 10, and note the posi-
tions of their various components. Then, look at the cutaway view of an
outboard engine shown in Figure 11. In this figure, you can clearly see
the positions of many of the internal components of an outboard engine.
The engine shown in Figure 11 is a two-cylinder, manual-start 35 horse-
power engine. The ignition system in this engine is a flywheel magneto
type. Note the positions of the two spark plugs above the cylinders, and
the location of the ignition module near the flywheel. At the very top of
the drawing, you can see the flywheel. Note how the flywheel has teeth
cut into its edge. A manually activated starter mechanism is positioned
near the flywheel. When the starter rope is pulled, a nylon gear on the
starter engages the teeth in the edge of the flywheel and starts the fly-
wheel turning. Once the flywheel starts turning, it activates the engine’s
ignition system and gets the engine running.
Although this engine is started manually with a pull rope, you should note
that some outboard engines use lead-acid batteries and alternator-type
charging systems to supply them with electrical power. The operation of
this type of electrical system is the same as the system used in garden
tractors. The 12-volt, lead-acid batteries used with outboard motors are
much the same as the batteries used in garden tractors and automobiles.
However, outboard batteries (often called marine batteries) are usually
made with special waterproof cases that protect them from the elements
during use. A special type of marine battery called a deep-cycle battery
is used to operate special electrical equipment on boats, such as lights,
fish finders, and bait tank pumps. However, deep-cycle batteries aren’t
always used for starting.
Note the position of the two cylinders and pistons in the powerhead. The
two cylinders are positioned horizontally next to each other, so this engine
is said to have an in-line cylinder arrangement.
Outboard Engines 11

FIGURE 10—Figure 10A shows a 4.5 horsepower, two-cylinder outboard engine, and Figure 10B shows a 7.5 horse-
power, two-cylinder engine. Note that the upper engine covers have been removed from both of these engines.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)

The cylinders used in outboard engines are usually made of cast aluminum.
An aluminum cylinder may contain a steel sleeve liner, or the cylinder
walls may be specially coated with a protective material to prevent exces-
sive wear of the soft aluminum. Steel-sleeved cylinders can be bored and
refitted with oversized pistons during a rebuild. An aluminum cylinder
with coated walls can’t be bored—it must either be replaced or refitted
with a steel sleeve liner.
12 Outboard Engines

FIGURE 11—In this cutaway view of a two-cylinder, 35 horsepower outboard engine, you can clearly see many of
the internal components. (Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)
Outboard Engines 13

Next, look at the engine’s crankshaft. The crankshaft is positioned verti-

cally, and the driveshaft is splined to the end of the crankshaft. The other
end of the driveshaft is splined to a pinion gear, and the pinion gear
meshes with two gears on the propeller shaft. One of these gears controls
the forward gear function, and the other controls the reverse function.
Observe the position of the carburetor in the powerhead. This engine
doesn’t contain a built-in fuel tank—instead, it uses a remote tank that’s
positioned inside the boat. A fuel line will connect the remote fuel tank
directly to the carburetor in the engine. Note that some outboard engines
may contain more than one carburetor.
In the lower unit of this engine, you can see how the end of the drive-shaft
is connected to a pinion gear. The pinion gear meshes with the two gears
that are connected to the propeller shaft. These are the forward and the
reverse gears. If the pinion gear meshes with the forward gear, the pro-
peller will turn in the direction that moves the boat forward. If the pinion
gear meshes with the reverse gear, the propeller will turn in the reverse
direction and move the boat backward.

THE POWERHEAD
Now that you understand the basic position and operation of the parts of
an outboard engine, let’s take a closer look at the powerhead components.
Remember that the powerhead is the upper area of the engine that con-
tains the flywheel, cylinder head, cylinders, pistons, connecting rods,
crankshaft, crankcase, bearings, ignition system, carburetor, and starter
mechanism (or starter motor).
An exploded view of a single-cylinder powerhead is shown in Figure 12.
Note that the cylinder is positioned horizontally in this engine, and the
crankshaft is mounted vertically. In this engine, the cylinder block is
separated from the cylinder head by the head gasket. The crankcase
holds the reed valve assemblies.
When the crankcase and the engine block are bolted together, the bearings
that hold the crankshaft in place are held firmly between the crankcase
and the block. A seal is located at the outside surface of each crankcase
bearing. These seals perform two functions: they prevent water, dirt, and
dust from entering the bearing, and they also help maintain vacuum
pressure within the crankcase.
Note the shape of the crankshaft that’s used in this engine, and observe
the one-piece connecting rod. The connecting rod contains needle bear-
ings in both ends.
An exploded view of the components of a two-cylinder, in-line power-
head is shown in Figure 13. This is the powerhead of the 7.5 horsepower
engine you saw earlier in Figure 10.
14 Outboard Engines

FIGURE 12—An exploded view of the powerhead from a single-cylinder outboard engine is shown here. Note that
the cylinder is positioned horizontally in the engine, while the crankshaft is mounted vertically.

At this point, it’s important to remember how two-cycle engines operate.

In a two-cycle engine, the upward piston stroke is the intake/compression
stroke, and the downward stroke is the power/exhaust stroke. When the
piston moves up during engine operation, the piston creates a partial
vacuum that draws the air-and-fuel mixture from the carburetor into the
crankcase. When the piston moves down, the piston produces positive
pressure that transfers the air-and-fuel mixture from the crankcase to the
combustion chamber.
Because of the way two-cycle engines operate, a multicylinder two-cycle
engine needs a separate crankcase for each cylinder. Each crankcase must
be of equal size and volume in order for the air-and-fuel mixture to be
distributed evenly to each cylinder. The crankcases must also be isolated
from each other to prevent leakage between them. The crankcases shown
in Figure 13 are isolated by the center main crankshaft bearing and liner.
The components of a two-cylinder, in-line crankshaft assembly are
shown in Figure 14. This type of crankshaft is somewhat different from
the single-cylinder crankshaft we looked at earlier. First, note that two-
piece connecting rods with split bearing inserts are used with this crank-
shaft. Usually, a two-piece connecting rod will contain alignment marks
on the rod and the end cap. When the end cap is attached to the rod, the
marks should be aligned on the same side of the connecting rod.
Outboard Engines 15

A V-type powerhead is somewhat different in design than the in-line

type. A V-type powerhead will usually contain a two-piece crankcase,
but it may also contain an intake manifold between its cylinders.

FIGURE 13—This illustration shows an exploded view of a two-cylinder, in-line outboard engine powerhead.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)
16 Outboard Engines

FIGURE 14—Shown here is an exploded view of the crankshaft assembly for a two-cylinder engine.

Outboard Engine Fuel Systems

Two different types of fuel systems are used with outboard engines: the
powerhead-mounted fuel system and the remote fuel system. In a
powerhead-mounted system, a fuel tank is built into the engine’s power-
head. A remote fuel system uses a fuel tank that’s placed in the boat and
connected to the outboard engine by hoses. Depending on the engine de-
sign, an outboard engine fuel system will contain the following principal
components:

• A fuel tank
• A fuel pump or a gravity-feed system
• A fuel filter
• One or more carburetors
• A reed-valve assembly
• An intake manifold
Most one-cylinder and two-cylinder outboard engines contain powerhead-
mounted fuel tanks. In most cases, a gravity-feed system is used to trans-
port fuel from the tank to the carburetor. However, some engines have
small, diaphragm-type fuel pumps built into their carburetors. Larger
multicylinder engines will usually use portable, remote fuel tanks. Both
types of fuel tanks are nonpressurized.
Outboard Engines 17

Figure 15 is a simplified illustration of a typical remote fuel tank system.

In a remote fuel tank, the fuel filler cap is provided with a vent that al-
lows air to replace the fuel as it’s consumed by the engine. The vents on
most remote tanks are one-way valves that allow air to enter the tank but
prevent fuel or fuel vapors from escaping.

FIGURE 15—A remote fuel

tank system for an outboard
engine is shown here.

Some fuel tanks (especially auxiliary fuel tanks) use petcock-type air vents.
A petcock vent can be opened or closed to prevent fumes from escaping
or water from entering the tank. If the boat’s operator forgets to open the
petcock valve, the engine may stop due to lack of fuel.
Outboard engines with remote fuel tanks usually use a diaphragm-type
fuel pump to move fuel from the tank to the carburetor(s). A diaphragm
pump will be mounted on the powerhead and operated by the pressure
changes that occur in the crankcase. The operating principles of diaphragm
pumps were discussed in the study unit on fuel systems.
18 Outboard Engines

The Fuel
In an outboard engine, gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 86
should be used. A marine engine lubricant should be used instead of
automotive engine oils. Automotive oil will reduce the engine life as
well as the spark plug life.
In two-cycle outboard engines, the oil-and-fuel mixture should be 50:1
(fifty parts gasoline to one part lubricant). This is equal to six gallons of
gasoline for every one pint of lubricant. Avoid using premixed fuel with
an unknown quality lubricant.
To fuel a small, two-cycle outboard engine with a powerhead-mounted
fuel tank, premix the oil and fuel in a separate container, and then pour
the mixture into the fuel tank. When filling portable tanks, gasoline
should be added to the lubricant. Mix the fuel by tilting the tank onto its
side, then back into an upright position a few times. When refueling
non-portable remote fuel tanks, add the lubricant slowly through a large
funnel as the tank is filled with gasoline.
In cold weather, the required amount of lubricant should be premixed
with about one gallon of gasoline. To refuel a portable fuel tank, add the
remaining gasoline to this premix, then mix as described above. To fill a
built-in remote fuel tank, add the premix slowly as the tank is filled with
the remaining gasoline.

Outboard Engine Carburetors

Most one-cylinder, two-cylinder, and three-cylinder outboard engines
use a single carburetor. The carburetor is usually a one-barrel, float-feed
carburetor with a fixed high-speed jet and an adjustable low-speed jet.
In some engines, however, the carburetor may have two fixed jets or
two adjustable jets.
In contrast, larger outboard engines often contain one or more two-barrel
carburetors. Most two-barrel carburetors have two jets in each barrel—
a high-speed jet and a low-speed jet. However, some carburetors have
three fixed jets per barrel—a low-speed jet, an intermediate-speed jet,
and a high-speed jet.
The air-and-fuel mixture in most carburetors can be changed by replac-
ing the air-bleed jet, the intermediate-speed jet, or the high-speed jet with
a jet that has a larger or smaller inside diameter. Note that reducing the
size of an intermediate-speed jet or a high-speed jet will produce a leaner
mixture because it restricts the flow of fuel through the carburetor. How-
ever, reducing the size of the air-bleed jet restricts the flow of air and pro-
duces a richer mixture.

Outboard Engine Ignition Systems

Outboard engine ignition systems work in exactly the same way as other
small engine ignition systems.
Outboard Engines 19

The following two types of ignition systems are used most often in out-
board engines:
1. The conventional flywheel magneto system with breaker point con-
tacts operated by a crankshaft lobe
2. The flywheel magneto system with electronic ignition module
(capacitor discharge type)
Unlike some other types of outdoor power equipment, people tend to
use outboard motors over very long periods of time. Since some of the
engines you work on may be older, you should know how to service and
repair breaker points. If necessary, refer to your earlier study unit on
small engine ignition systems to review the operation of these systems
and components. We’ll discuss the repair and replacement of breaker
points later in the study unit.
Newer outboard engines will use electronic ignition modules to trigger
ignition rather than breaker point contacts. Note that in outboard engines,
the electronic ignition module is often called a pulse pack or a power pack.
The power pack usually contains the capacitor, SCRs, diodes, and any
other components needed to provide electronic triggering.

Outboard Engine Starting Systems

The type of starting system that’s used with an outboard engine depends
largely on the size of the engine. Single-cylinder outboards and small
multicylinder engines are usually equipped with manual starters. Many
types of manual starters are available, and the type used with a particu-
lar outboard engine depends on the engine make and model. One type
of rope-rewind manual starter is shown in Figure 16. This starter is used
on the 7.5 horsepower engine that was shown earlier in Figure 10. When
the starter handle is pulled, a nylon pinion gear slides up and engages
the teeth in the flywheel edge. Once the engine starts, the pinion auto-
matically disengages from the flywheel.

FIGURE 16—A manual

starter assembly is shown
here. (Courtesy of the Johnson
Division of the Outboard Marine
Corporation)
20 Outboard Engines

Larger outboard engines may use an automotive-type electrical system with

a key switch, lead-acid battery, starter motor, solenoid, and alternator-
type charging system. An outboard engine electric starter system will
also typically contain a prevent-start switch that prevents the engine
from starting unless the gear selector is set in neutral.
The electrical system in a larger outboard engine may also include an
electrically operated hydraulic pump to run a power trim-and-tilt system,
plus the necessary wiring and controls for the pump.
Figure 17 shows a simplified drawing of an outboard engine electrical
system. Note the position of the battery in the figure. Also, note how a
junction box is used to hold the electrical connections between the engine
and the battery. The junction box is mounted in a protected location
away from the fuel tank, the battery, and the floor of the boat (to protect
it from water damage).

FIGURE 17—This illustration

shows a simplified view of an
outboard engine electrical
system. Note the position of
the battery and the junction
box in relation to the engine.

THE MIDSECTION AND THE LOWER UNIT

Now, let’s take a closer look at the components of the midsection and the
lower unit. Remember that the midsection of an outboard engine in-
cludes the stern brackets, the exhaust housing, the water cooling pas-
sages, and the manual steering arm (or steering linkage). An exploded
view of a typical outboard engine midsection is shown in Figure 18.
Outboard Engines 21

FIGURE 18—This illustration is an exploded view of a typical outboard engine midsection. (Courtesy of the Johnson
Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)
22 Outboard Engines

The main component of the midsection is the exhaust housing. The

following are the components found in the exhaust housing:

• The exhaust relief hole

• The driveshaft
• The gear shift control rods
• The water pump
• The tube that delivers water to the powerhead
The exhaust relief hole is used to relieve exhaust pressure when the engine
is first started up, and also to discharge exhaust water during operation.
Depending on the design of a particular engine model, the exhaust outlet
may also be located in the exhaust housing. However, in the engine shown
in Figure 11, the exhaust outlet is located in the propeller hub. In this en-
gine, the main exhaust water moves through the passages in the exhaust
housing, through the lower unit, and then out of the engine through the
exhaust outlet.
The exhaust housing is connected to the lower unit and helps to support
it. For this reason, the exhaust housing can easily be damaged if the
lower unit strikes a submerged object.
The lower unit at the bottom of the engine contains the engine’s right-
angle drive components, gearcase, propeller, and water pump. An exploded
view of a typical lower unit is shown in Figure 19. Study the location
of each component in the figure carefully. The lower unit contains the
following parts:

• The propeller
• The right-angle drive gear assembly
• The gear shift mechanism
• The water intake port for the cooling system
• The water pump

Outboard Engine Drives

The simplest type of outboard engine right-angle drive is the direct drive.
Small, single-cylinder outboard engines generally use this type of drive.
In a direct drive, a pinion gear is splined to the lower end of the drive-
shaft, and a matching bevel gear is splined to the end of the propeller
shaft. The gears on the driveshaft and the propeller shaft are perma-
nently engaged. When the engine is running, the propeller turns con-
stantly and in only one direction. In order to reverse the direction of the
boat, the engine must be pivoted 180 degrees on the swivel mount of the
stern brackets. This pivoting will point the propeller toward the bow of
the boat and cause the boat to drive in reverse.
Outboard Engines 23

FIGURE 19—In this exploded view of an outboard engine lower unit, you can see the components of the gearcase,
the water pump, and the drive. (Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)
24 Outboard Engines

Multicylinder outboard engines generally use a shift-type drive. The shift

drive provides an outboard engine with the three functions of forward,
neutral, and reverse. In this type of drive, a pinion gear is splined to the
lower end of the driveshaft. Two bevel gears (a forward gear and a re-
verse gear) rotate freely around the propeller shaft. When the engine is
running, the two gears rotate constantly, but in opposite directions.
The engine shown in Figure 19 contains a shift-type drive. In the lower
unit, you can see how the end of the driveshaft is connected to a pinion
gear. The pinion gear meshes with the two gears that are connected to
the propeller shaft. These are the forward and the reverse gears. If the
pinion gear meshes with the forward gear, the propeller will turn in the
direction that moves the boat forward. If the pinion gear meshes with the
reverse gear, the propeller will turn in the reverse direction and move the
boat backward.
A device called a shifter clutch dog is splined to the propeller shaft. When
the engine is in neutral, the clutch dog is centered between the forward
gear and the reverse gear. To shift the engine into forward or reverse, the
clutch dog is moved until it engages the desired gear. The clutch dog
may be moved by a cam-and-plunger arrangement (as seen in Figure 19)
or a yoke-and-fork mechanism (as seen earlier in Figure 11). If the clutch
dog is moved to engage the forward gear, the propeller will turn in the
forward direction. If the clutch dog is moved to engage the reverse gear,
the propeller shaft will turn in the reverse direction.
To prevent damage to the engagement surfaces of the clutch dog, the
bevel gears, and the shifter mechanism, never shift an outboard engine
into forward or reverse at excessive rpm. Also, shifting into neutral at
high speed may cause the engine to over-rev.

Outboard Engine Cooling Systems

Most outboard engines are water-cooled. The powerhead of a water-cooled
outboard engine contains channels through which water is circulated to
cool the engine components. Water is drawn in through the water intake
port, and is then pumped through the passages in the powerhead by the
water pump (Figure 20). Circulation is controlled, in most cases, by a
thermostat. (Some smaller engines, however, don’t contain thermostats.)
In the cutaway view of the engine shown earlier in Figure 11, note the
location of the thermostat in the powerhead and the water pump in the
lower unit. In many outboard engines, the water pump is located just
above the gearcase, and is driven directly by the driveshaft. In some out-
board engines, however, the water pump may be located in the gearcase,
just in front of the propeller.
Depending on the design of a particular engine model, the exhaust outlet
may be located in the exhaust housing. Heated exhaust water moves
through the passages in the exhaust housing, through the lower unit,
and then out of the engine through the exhaust outlet. The exhaust outlet
may be located in the exhaust housing or in the propeller hub.
Outboard Engines 25

FIGURE 20—The powerhead of a water-cooled outboard engine contains channels through which water is circu-
lated to cool the engine components. Water is drawn in through the water intake port, and is then pumped
through the passages in the powerhead by the water pump. Heated exhaust water will then exit the engine
through the exhaust outlet. Depending on the engine design, the exhaust outlet may be located in the exhaust
housing or in the propeller hub. (Courtesy of American Suzuki Motor Corporation)

The water pump that’s commonly used in the engines manufactured by

Johnson and Evinrude outboard engines is the vari-volume type. The
pump consists of two main components: a pump housing and a synthetic
rubber impeller that contains several flexible blades. An exploded view
of a typical water pump is shown in Figure 21. A top view of the impeller
is shown in Figure 22. The impeller is fixed to the driveshaft with a pin.
The pin fits into a slot in the impeller hub and rests against a flat spot on
the driveshaft.
26 Outboard Engines

FIGURE 21—An exploded

view of a typical outboard
engine water pump is shown
here. This pump is driven by
the vertical driveshaft. How-
ever, some pumps are
mounted on the propeller
shaft.

The pump housing is offset from the center of the driveshaft. When the
impeller rotates at low speed, the spaces between the impeller’s flexible
blades vary, as illustrated in Figure 22. The water pump intake port is
located below the point where the impeller blades are farthest apart. The
pump outlet is located above the point where the blades are closest to-
gether. When the engine operates at low speed, the pump functions as a
displacement pump. Water is forced out of the pump outlet as the blades
move closer together. Water is drawn into the pump as the blades move
farther apart.
When the engine operates at high speed, however, water resistance pre-
vents the impeller blades from coming into contact with the wall of the
pump housing. At high speeds, the pump functions as a centrifugal
pump. The impeller blades are able to flex as a result of water resistance,
which prevents water pressure in the cooling system from getting too
high and possibly damaging the engine.
Outboard Engines 27

FIGURE 22—This figure shows

a top view of a water pump
impeller. (Courtesy of the John-
son Division of the Outboard
Marine Corporation)

Propellers
The main function of the propeller is to provide the thrust that moves a
boat forward. The shape and design of a propeller will have a great effect
on the engine’s performance. The propeller’s blades are shaped rather
like fan blades, and are mounted at a tilt on the propeller hub. When the
propeller turns, the front of each blade pushes water forward, and the
back of each blade pulls water with it as it turns. The parts of a typical
propeller are shown in Figure 23.

FIGURE 23—The parts of a

typical outboard engine
propeller are shown here.
28 Outboard Engines

In the figure, note the different areas of the propeller blade. The blade face
is the cupped side of the blade that pushes the water. The blade back is the
side of the blade that pulls water behind it as the propeller turns. The
leading edge is measured from the outer hub to the blade tip. The leading
edge cuts into the water as the propeller turns, while the trailing edge
follows behind.
Now, look at the propeller hub. The outer hub is the area that comes into
direct contact with water on the outside and exhaust gases on the inside.
The blades are attached to the outer hub. The inner hub is a metal shell
with a rubber interior. The inner hub may be splined or pinned to the
propeller shaft. The inner hub is designed to absorb shocks if the propel-
ler strikes a submerged object. The outer hub is connected to the metal
surface of the inner hub by the ribs. This propeller uses three ribs to con-
nect the inner and outer hub. The hollow areas between the inner and
outer hubs are the exhaust outlets.
Outboard engine propellers have two basic measurements:
1. Size
2. Pitch
The size of a propeller is the diameter of the imaginary circle that can be
drawn around the tips of the blades as the propeller spins. (An easy way to
measure a propeller’s size is to measure the distance from the blade tip
to the center of the inner hub, and then multiply the measurement by 2.)
The pitch of a propeller is the amount of twist that each blade has. The
more angled or twisted the blades are, the higher the propeller’s pitch
will be. Figure 24 shows an illustration of propeller size and pitch.
Propeller pitch and diameter have a strong effect on engine rpm at full
throttle. A propeller that has a high pitch and a large diameter will have
a lot of “bite” in the water as it spins. That is, the propeller will cut
through the water easily and move a lot of water. A smaller propeller
with a lower pitch will move less water. However, the large propeller re-
quires more engine power to turn it against the resistance of the water.
Less engine rpm is needed to run a small propeller. If a propeller’s di-
ameter is too small and its pitch is too high for operating conditions, the
water resistance against the propeller will cause the engine to labor. On
the other hand, if the propeller is too large and the pitch is too low for
operating conditions, the water resistance will be reduced too much. This
can cause the engine to overspeed, especially at full throttle.
An outboard engine will be factory-equipped with a propeller that allows
the engine to run at full throttle under average operating conditions.
However, the design of the boat and different operating conditions may
make it necessary to select and install a different propeller. For example,
if a boat will be used to pull water-skiers, the drag on the boat will be
increased greatly. To allow the engine to operate at full throttle while
pulling skiers, the engine’s original propeller should be replaced by a
propeller with a lower pitch.
Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing
Power Check 1.
Outboard Engines 29

FIGURE 24—This figure illustrates the concepts of propeller size and pitch.

Power Check 1
At the end of each section of your Outboard Engines text, you’ll be asked to check your under-
standing of what you’ve just read by completing a “Power Check.” Writing the answers to these
questions will help you review what you’ve learned so far. Please complete Power Check 1 now.
1–5: Indicate whether each statement is True or False.
_____ 1. In an outboard engine, gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 86 should be used,
and automotive engine oil should be used for lubrication.
_____ 2. A small propeller with a low pitch will require a lot of engine rpm to turn it against
the resistance of the water, while a propeller with a high pitch and a large diameter
will require less engine power to run.
_____ 3. If an engine contains a shift-type drive, in order to reverse the direction of the boat, the
engine must be pivoted 180 degrees on the swivel mount of the stern bracket.
_____ 4. A power trim-and-tilt unit should only be used to tilt the engine out of the water when
the boat is being beached, launched, or loaded onto a trailer.
_____ 5. In a remote fuel system, a fuel tank is built into the engine’s powerhead.
(Continued)
30 Outboard Engines

Power Check 1
6–14: Fill in the blanks in the statements.
6. An outboard engine is mounted on a boat’s _______ by its stern brackets.
7. The _______ of an outboard engine is the angle at which an engine is tilted in toward (or out-
ward from) a boat during operation. The _______ of an engine is the distance that an engine
can be tilted up out of the water.
8. Depending on the design of a particular outboard engine model, the exhaust outlet may be
located in the _______ or in the _______.
9. In an outboard engine that uses a direct drive, a pinion gear will be splined to the lower end
of the driveshaft, and a matching bevel gear will be splined to the end of the _______.
10. In most water-cooled outboard engines, water circulation is controlled by a _______ that’s
located in the engine’s _______.
11. In many outboard engines, the water pump is located just above the _______ and is driven
directly by the _______.
12. A good way to measure a propeller’s size is to measure the distance from the _______ to the
center of the _______, and then multiply the measurement by two.
13. The left side of a boat is called the _______ side and the right side is called the _______ side.
14. An outboard engine can be divided into three areas called the _______, the _______, and the
_______.
Check your answers with those on page 69.

OUTBOARD ENGINE TUNE-UPS

Tuning and adjusting an outboard engine is not unlike tuning and ad-
justing any other small, two-cycle engine. The procedures outlined in the
following sections of your study unit are applicable to virtually any make
or model of two-cycle outboard engine.
The purpose of a tune-up is to maintain an engine at peak operating effi-
ciency. A tune-up can also uncover mechanical problems that may be
causing an engine to operate below peak efficiency. Before proceeding
with a tune-up, however, you should first determine whether the engine
has any special problems that may need attention. This information may
be obtained by questioning the owner of the engine, or by test-running
the engine, either on the boat or in a testing tank. (We’ll discuss tank-
testing a little later in this section of your study unit.) A simple visual in-
spection may also reveal problem areas. For example, blistered paint on
the engine cover may indicate that the engine is overheating.
Outboard Engines 31

In a small engine repair shop that services outboard engines, a special

mounting table or bench will be needed to hold the engine during a tune-
up. All that’s really needed is a solid, raised bench area that the engine’s
stern bracket can be clamped onto. Mount the engine on the bench in the
same way it would be mounted on a boat. Make sure that the engine is
securely fastened and that the bench can’t tip over from the engine’s
weight. Be sure to follow all of the standard workshop precautions that
were discussed earlier in the course when working on outboard engines
(for example, disconnect the spark plug wires before beginning work,
make sure the shop is adequately ventilated, and so on). Also, before
conducting any performance tests, be sure to remove the propeller and
replace it with a test wheel to prevent injury. (We’ll discuss this in more
detail in a moment.)
A typical outboard engine tune-up will include the following:

• A compression check
• An inspection of the powerhead
• A check of the ignition system
• A check of the fuel system
• A throttle synchronization
• Lubrication of the engine
• A tank test
Now, let’s take a closer look at each of these tune-up procedures.

Performing a Compression Check

The first step in an engine tune-up procedure is perform a compression
check. Before beginning the test, however, the ignition system should be
disconnected to prevent the engine from starting accidentally. If an engine
has an electronic ignition system, separate the connector plug between
the magneto and the power pack. If an engine has a breaker points ignition
system, disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs and
ground them.
To perform the compression test, you simply turn the engine over by
hand and gage the amount of compression in the cylinders. (If an engine
uses an electric starter, turn the engine over by pulling the emergency
starting rope.) There should be a lively “bounce” as each piston passes
top dead center (TDC). In general, the compression is too low if the
engine doesn’t “bounce” well as each piston passes TDC, and is too high
if it’s particularly hard to pull past TDC.
A slow cranking speed in an electric start engine isn’t an accurate indica-
tion of compression. Slow cranking may be caused by either an under-
charged battery or an excessive voltage drop in the starter system circuitry.
Therefore, slow cranking can indicate either too much compression or
too little compression.
32 Outboard Engines

Some manufacturers recommend that a compression test be performed

with a compression gage. To get the highest possible reading when per-
forming this type of compression test, the engine should be cranked
through at least four compression strokes with the throttle wide open.
Whichever method is used, the compression in each cylinder should be
checked. If you use a compression gage to perform the test, a difference
of more than 10 psi between cylinders indicates a problem. Also, if the
compression reading is between 10 psi and 15 psi less than the optimum
compression specified in the manufacturer’s service manual, a problem
condition exists.
If you observe any of these conditions during your test, you’ll need to
remove the cylinder head (or heads) and the exhaust cover to determine
the cause of the problem. If the compression of one or more cylinders is
too low, check the condition of the cylinder walls, pistons, and piston
rings. If the compression is too high in one or more cylinders, the condi-
tion may be caused by an excessive buildup of carbon on the cylinder
head or piston head. Inspect the exhaust ports, cylinder head, pistons,
and piston rings. If you find excessive carbon deposits, the powerhead
will need to be disassembled and cleaned.

Inspecting and Cleaning the Powerhead

Some outboard engine manufacturers recommend that the cylinder head
and the exhaust cover be removed during a tune-up procedure. This will
allow you to closely inspect the cylinder head, cylinder walls, pistons, pis-
ton rings, and exhaust ports for excessive wear or carbon accumulation.
After you remove the cylinder head and the exhaust cover, rotate the fly-
wheel slowly in a clockwise direction, and visually inspect the pistons,
piston rings, and cylinder walls. The flywheel should turn smoothly and
evenly. Note that you should never rotate the flywheel in a counter-
clockwise direction, since this may damage the blades of the water pump
impeller.
Next, check the pistons, piston rings, and cylinder walls for signs of
excessive wear or damage. Check to see whether the piston rings are
sticking as a result of excessive carbon accumulation. If any of these con-
ditions are found, you’ll need to remove, disassemble, and repair the
powerhead. (We’ll discuss this procedure in more detail in a moment.)
If the pistons, piston rings, and cylinder walls appear to be in good con-
dition, carefully scrape any carbon deposits from the exhaust ports, and
clean any petroleum gum and varnish deposits off the pistons or rings
with cleaning solvent. Carefully clean any carbon deposits from the top
of each piston. If the deflector on the top of the piston is scored or marred,
it will disrupt the flow of air-and fuel mixture into (and exhaust gases
out of) the combustion chamber.
When the parts are clean, reinstall the exhaust cover. Always use new
gaskethoroughly clean any old gasket material or cement off the gasket
surfaces. ts when reassembling powerhead components, and remember
to Unless otherwise specified by the gasket manufacturer, lightly coat
both sides of the gaskets with gasket sealing compound.
Outboard Engines 33

Before the cylinder head is reinstalled, it should be resurfaced to remove

any high spots from the gasket face. Then, reinstall the cylinder head
using a new gasket. Lightly coat the gasket on both sides with gasket
sealing compound unless otherwise specified. The cylinder head bolts
should then be tightened in the recommended sequence to the manufac-
turer’s specified torque.

Adjusting and Checking the Ignition System

To check the ignition system, visually inspect all cables, wires, and con-
nections for breaks, worn or broken insulation, pinched wires, dampness,
oiliness, and tightness. Then, remove and replace the spark plugs. Be sure
that the new plugs are the type recommended by the manufacturer, and
make sure that the plug gaps are adjusted to the proper specification.
Also, before installing the spark plugs, make sure that the spark plug seat
is clean.
To inspect, adjust, or replace the breaker points in an outboard engine, it
will be necessary to remove the flywheel. Note that multicylinder engines
will often contain a set of points for each cylinder. After removing the
flywheel, visually inspect the breaker points for wear, burning, pitting, or
other damage. Worn or damaged points should be replaced. If the points
are in satisfactory condition, adjust them to the proper point gap specified
in the service manual.
Next, before replacing the flywheel, inspect the crankshaft and flywheel
taper for oil traces. Excess oil in either of these areas may indicate that
an upper crankshaft seal is leaking. After your inspection is complete,
replace the flywheel.
No check of an ignition system is complete until a spark test is performed.
To test for spark, disconnect the spark plug wire from each plug, then
connect a spark tester to the spark plug wire. Some spark testers allow
two or more plug wires to be connected and tested at the same time. If
your tester doesn’t allow this type of test, disconnect and ground the
other spark plug wires. Grounding the wires will prevent arcing or a
damaging buildup of high voltage in the ignition system. Set the tester’s
air gap as specified in the manufacturer’s service manual. For breaker-type
ignition systems, the air gap is usually set at about 14 inch. When testing
electronic ignition systems, the tester’s air gap is set to about 12 inch.

Checking the Fuel System

During the tune-up procedure, the fuel system should be given a thor-
ough visual inspection. The carburetor, fuel lines, fuel filter, and choke
should be carefully inspected for leaks, cleanliness, and overall condition.
The fuel filter element should be cleaned or replaced as necessary. If the
engine is equipped with a fuel shut-off valve, it should also be checked.
The carburetor adjustments should be performed during the tank test or
after the engine is reattached to the boat.
34 Outboard Engines

Synchronizing the Throttle

To obtain the maximum performance and fuel economy from an engine,
it’s important to properly synchronize the throttle and the magneto. The
throttle and magneto are linked so that as the throttle is opened, the spark
automatically advances. The method used to synchronize the throttle and
magneto varies depending on the make and model of engine. (Consult
the engine service manual to determine the manufacturer’s recommended
procedure for a particular engine.) The following method would be used
to synchronize the throttle and magneto of the 4.5 horsepower and 7.5
horsepower engines shown earlier in Figure 10.
Advance the throttle until the marks on the throttle cam are centered on
the cam follower, as shown in Figure 25. At this point, the throttle valve
in the carburetor throat should just be opening.

FIGURE 25—The location to

make a throttle cam ad-
justment on an outboard
engine is shown here.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of
the Outboard Marine Corporation)

To adjust the throttle valve position, turn the cam follower adjustment
screw out until the throttle valve is completely closed. Then, turn the
screw in until the throttle valve shaft just begins to rotate. It’s important
to be sure that the marks on the cam are still centered on the cam fol-
lower. The throttle and magneto are now synchronized.
In the previous step, it’s often difficult to tell just when the throttle valve
shaft starts to rotate. However, the simple, homemade tool shown in
Figure 26 can help. The tool is made from an alligator clip and a piece of
stiff wire. Clip the tool to the throttle shaft just opposite the cam follower.
The tool will exaggerate the movement of the throttle shaft and make it
easier to see when it starts to rotate.
Outboard Engines 35

FIGURE 26—Shown here is

a homemade tool that
you can use to assist in
adjusting the throttle cam.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division
of the Outboard Marine
Corporation)

Lubricating the Engine

To obtain reliable service and to prolong the life of an outboard engine, it
must be regularly lubricated according to the manufacturer’s specifica-
tions. It’s also important to use the right lubricants. Most outboard en-
gine manufacturers recommend using lubricants that are especially
designed for use on their products.
The chart in Figure 27 lists the lubrication points on a typical outboard
engine. The table also lists the type of lubricants that should be used, as
well as a lubrication schedule. Note that engines that are used in salt wa-
ter require more frequent lubrication than engines that are used in fresh
water. This is because salt water is more corrosive than fresh water, and
breaks down oil-based lubricants much more quickly. Figures 28A
through 28E show the lubrication points on a typical outboard engine.
When you’re lubricating the gearcase, the ignition system should be dis-
connected to prevent accidental starting of the engine. If you suspect a
leakage of lubricant from the gearcase, the gearcase should be pressure-
tested.
To pressure-test the gearcase, remove the propeller and drain the gear-
case. Install a gearcase pressure tester in the drain hole as shown in
Figure 29. Pump air into the gearcase until the gage reads between 3 psi
and 6 psi. Then, immerse the gearcase in water. If you observe bubbles
escaping from the gearcase, the gearcase seals are faulty and must be re-
placed. (After the seals are replaced, pressure-test the gearcase again.) If
no bubbles are seen, increase the pressure in the gearcase to between 16
psi and 18 psi. If there are still no bubbles, the gearcase seals are good.
Remove the pressure tester and reinstall the drain plug. Finally, slowly
refill the gearcase with lubricant to permit trapped air to escape (Figure 30).
36 Outboard Engines

FREQUENCY
LUBRICATION POINT LUBRICANT (PERIOD OF OPERATION)
FRESH WATER SALT WATER
Clamp screws, steering OMC Triple-Guard
handle, tilt/run lever grease 60 days 30 days

Fuel shutoff linkage, choke, OMC Triple-Guard

60 days 30 days
throttle linkage grease
Shift lever shaft, swivel OMC Triple-Guard
60 days 30 days
bracket (upper and lower) grease
Throttle cam, carburetor OMC Triple-Guard
60 days 30 days
linkage grease
OMC Triple-Guard
Rear motor cover latch 60 days 30 days
grease
Change after first 20 hours of operation
Gearcase (capacity OMC HI-VIS
and check after 50 hours of operation.
14.7 oz or 435 ml) gearcase lube
Add lubricant if necessary.
Drain and refill every 100 hours of opera-
tion or once each season, whichever oc-
curs first.

FIGURE 27—This chart lists lubrication recommendations for the 4.5 horsepower and 7.5 horsepower engines that
were shown earlier in Figure 10. (Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)

Performing a Tank Test

Whenever you test-run an outboard engine, it’s very important to re-
member that an outboard engine should never be run out of the water.
Without water resistance on the propeller, an outboard engine will over-
rev, so much so that it may be irreparably damaged. Also, a water-cooled
engine will rapidly overheat if run out of water. This can result in severe
(possible irreversible) damage to the powerhead.
To test-run an outboard engine in a repair shop, a testing tank is used. A
testing tank is simply a large tank filled with water. Most small engine re-
pair shops that service outboard engines are equipped with test tanks. If
your shop doesn’t own a tank, you can use an oil drum filled with water
to test small outboards. Again, an outboard engine should never be run,
even momentarily, out of water. For this reason, if a test tank isn’t avail-
able, the engine must be installed on a boat for the final test run.
The tank test is usually the final stage of the tune-up procedure. During
a tank test, an engine is mounted on the tank and allowed to run in the
water. The purpose of the tank test is to
• Check and adjust the timing (if necessary)
• Adjust the carburetor jets
• Check the efficiency of the cooling system
• Evaluate overall engine performance
Outboard Engines 37

FIGURE 28—Figures 28A through 28E show the lubrication points on a typical outboard engine. Apply OMC Triple-
Guard grease from a tube to the points marked with the number 1. Apply OMC Triple-Guard grease with a grease
gun to the points marked with the number 2. (Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)
38 Outboard Engines

FIGURE 29—A gearcase

pressure tester is used to
pressurize the lower unit
and locate leaks. (Cour-
tesy of the Johnson Division of the
Outboard Marine Corporation)

FIGURE 30—After pressure-

testing a gearcase, slowly
refill the gearcase with
lubricant to permit trapped
air to escape. (Courtesy of
the Johnson Division of the Outboard
Marine Corporation)

Before beginning a tank test, all of the nuts, bolts, and screws on the en-
gine should be tightened to the manufacturer’s specified torque require-
ments. A sample torque chart from a manufacturer’s service manual is
shown in Figure 31.
The propeller must also be removed from the engine and replaced with
a test wheel for safety during the test. The test wheel can accurately
simulate actual operating conditions during the tank test. Note that an
outboard engine should never be run (even in water) without a propeller
or a test wheel attached to it. The manufacturer’s specification sheet will
indicate the proper diameter and width of the test wheel that should be
used on a particular engine. Figure 32 shows examples of the test wheel
dimensions to be used with two different engine sizes.
The best results will be obtained from the tank test, particularly with
respect to carburetor adjustments, if a tachometer is used in conjunction
with the test wheel. The tachometer permits more accurate rpm readings.
After a tank test is completed, and after the engine has cooled until it’s
comfortable to the touch, the cylinder head bolts and spark plugs must
be retightened to their specified torque values. When tightening the cyl-
inder head bolts, remember to follow the manufacturer’s recommended
torquing sequence to prevent the cylinder head from warping.
Outboard Engines 39

TORQUE CHART
POWERHEAD
4.5 hp Engine 7.5 hp Engine

Flywheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-40 ft. lbs. 40-50 ft. lbs.

Connecting rod screws . . . . . . . . . . . . 60-66 in. lbs. 60-70 in. lbs.
cylinder head screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60-80 in. lbs. 12-14 ft. lbs.
Crankcase to cylinder
head screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60-80 in. lbs. 60-80 in. lbs.
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.5-20.5 ft. lbs. 17.5-20.5 ft. lbs.
Pull at propeller shaft to tilt up
lower unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31-34 lbs. 31-34 lbs.
Power pack mounting screws . . . . . . 4-5 ft. lbs. 4-5 ft. lbs.
Ignition coil mounting screws . . . . . . . 5-7 ft. lbs. 5-7 ft. lbs.
Warning: Failure to comply with recommended torque values could result in operator injury or motor
damage.

STANDARD SCREWS
Inch-Pounds Foot-Pounds Newton-Meters
No. 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7-10 0.8-1.2
No. 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15-22 1.7-2.5
No. 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24-36 2-3 2.7-4.0
No. 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36-48 3-4 4.0-5.4
1 ″ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60-84 5-7 6.9-9.5
4
5 ″ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120-144 10-12 13.55-16.27
16
3 ″ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216-240 18-20 24.2-27.1
8

When tightening two or more screws on the same part, DO NOT tighten screws completely, one at a
time. To avoid distortion of the part, first tighten all screws together to one-third of specified torque,
then to two-thirds of specified torque, then torque down completely.

Re-check torque on cylinder head screws and spark plugs after motor has been run and has reached
operating temperature, and has cooled comfortable to touch.

FIGURE 31—The chart shown here lists the torque requirements for 4.5 and 7.5 horsepower outboard engines.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)

Now, let’s take a closer look at each of the checks and adjustments that
are performed during a tank test.

Adjusting the Ignition Timing

Many small single-cylinder and two-cylinder outboard engines won’t
require ignition timing adjustments. However, the ignition timing of
larger engines should be checked and adjusted with the aid of a timing
light.
40 Outboard Engines

FIGURE 32—A typical test

wheel is shown here. An
outboard engine’s propel-
ler is replaced with a test
wheel during a tank test.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of
the Outboard Marine Corporation)

The following procedure describes the steps used to check the ignition
timing in the 35 horsepower, two-cylinder outboard engine you saw
earlier in Figure 11. Note that the two cylinders of the engine are referred
to as Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 2.
Step 1: Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug over
Cylinder 1 and connect the timing light to the wire.
Step 2: Run the engine at full throttle.
Step 3: The timing mark should align with the 34 degree mark on the
flywheel.
A reading of plus one degree or minus one degree is generally accept-
able. However, if the timing is off by more than one degree, it should
be adjusted. To adjust the timing, stop the engine and turn the timing
adjustment screws to either advance or retard the timing. Then, restart
the engine and recheck the timing with the timing light.
Note that the methods used to check and adjust the timing of larger
engines may differ, although the basic principles are the same. Detailed
instructions on how to adjust the timing will be provided in the manufac-
turer’s service manual.

Adjusting the Carburetor

To properly adjust the carburetor on an outboard engine, the engine must
be run until it reaches its normal operating temperature. The carburetors
on most outboard engines have only one adjustable jet—the low-speed
jet. The high-speed jet is fixed and doesn’t need adjustment. However, if
the carburetor is equipped with an adjustable high-speed jet, it should be
adjusted first.
To make carburetor adjustments, run the engine at full throttle. Then, ad-
just the high-speed jet knob until the highest rpm reading and smoothest
operation is obtained. However, allow the engine some time to respond to
the adjustment (between 15 and 30 seconds is generally sufficient).
Outboard Engines 41

To adjust the low-speed jet, set the throttle so that the engine runs at
700 to 750 rpm. Then, adjust the low-speed jet knob until the highest
rpm reading and smoothest operation is obtained. After adjusting the
low-speed jet, you can readjust the high-speed jet, if necessary, by follow-
ing the procedure described above.

Performing a Temperature Check

The effectiveness of an outboard engine’s cooling system can be checked
by testing the temperature of the powerhead. To test the powerhead tem-
perature, special testing sticks are used. The testing sticks are similar in
appearance to large crayons and are made of temperature-sensitive, wax-
like compounds (Figure 33). The compounds are formulated to melt at
specific temperatures. The normal operating temperature range of most
outboard engines is between 125°F and 165°F. For this reason, two sticks
are used to test a powerhead’s temperature—one that melts at approxi-
mately 125°F, and another that melts at approximately 165°F.

FIGURE 33—The tempera-

ture of a powerhead can
be checked with a testing
stick as shown here.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division
of the Outboard Marine
Corporation)

It’s best to test the powerhead temperature while the engine is attached
to a boat, since this type of test more accurately simulates the actual con-
ditions under which the engine is operated. However, you can perform a
temperature test in a test tank.
The test procedure is simple. Run the engine for at least five minutes at
about half throttle. When the engine is running at between 900 rpm and
1,000 rpm, make a mark on the cylinder head with both testing sticks. In
their unmelted state, the wax marks will appear dull and chalky. Note
that testing sticks will sometimes not make a mark on a painted surface.
In such a case, you’ll need to hold the sticks against the powerhead sur-
face during the test.
Continue to run the engine, and observe the wax marks. When the tem-
perature of the powerhead surface reaches 125°F, the mark made by that
stick will begin to melt and appear glossy. If the powerhead reaches a
temperature of 165°F, the mark made by that stick will become glossy.
42 Outboard Engines

If the 125° mark melts but the 165° mark doesn’t, the engine is running
within the proper temperature range. From this test result, it’s also safe
to assume that the cooling system is functioning properly.
However, if the 165° mark melts during the test, the engine is running
too hot. A number of different problems could cause this condition, such
as a clogged water intake, a faulty thermostat or water pump, or a block-
age in the powerhead cooling passages. (The troubleshooting of outboard
engine cooling systems will be discussed later in the study unit.) On the
other hand, if neither wax mark melts within a reasonable length of time,
the engine is running too cold. Generally, this problem is caused by a
faulty thermostat.
To check the powerhead temperature of a smaller outboard engine that
doesn’t contain a thermostat, you’ll use only the 165° testing stick. Hold
the 165° stick against the side of the cylinder block (not against the cylin-
der head). The reading shouldn’t be taken from the cylinder head, because
the cylinder heads of smaller engines are generally hotter than the maxi-
mum operating temperature of the engine. You can then evaluate the
results of the test as outlined above.

Breaking In a New Outboard Engine

When a new outboard engine is being broken in, the continuous use of
full power must be avoided for the first five to ten hours of operation.
Full-throttle operation should then be increased gradually to allow the
moving parts to seat themselves. The following schedule of operation is
recommended to break in a two-cylinder outboard engine with a power
rating of up to 35 horsepower.
First hour: Run the engine at low speed for a minimum of fifteen min-
utes. Thereafter, operate the engine at full throttle for periods of up to
one and one-half minutes at intervals of five to ten minutes.
Second hour: Increase the duration of full-throttle operation to between
one and two minutes, then slow to half-throttle or three-quarter throttle
to allow the engine to cool off.
After second hour: Full-throttle operation may be increased after the sec-
ond hour, but avoid continuous use of full power for extended periods of
time for the next three hours. Consult the service manual for the engine
to learn about any further operating restrictions.
During the break-in period, check the operation of the cooling system pe-
riodically to ensure that it’s working properly and that there’s no danger
of the engine overheating. To do this, check the overboard indicator lo-
cated at the rear of the exhaust housing just below the powerhead. If the
overboard indicator is discharging water, the cooling system is operating
properly. Note, however, that not all engines are so equipped. Some en-
gines, for example, contain temperature sensitive switches in their cylin-
der heads. If the engine temperature rises beyond the maximum, these
switches will close and sound a warning horn in the control box.
Outboard Engines 43

Storing the Engine

In most areas of North America, the climate only allows outboard en-
gines to be used for part of the year. During the off-season, the engines
must be stored. The storage period in some cases may be as long as ten
months. However, before an outboard engine is stored for any length of
time, steps must be taken to prevent deterioration. Particular attention
must be paid to the cylinders, pistons, and cooling system.
To prevent rust from forming on the pistons and cylinder walls, the
cylinders should be protected with a coating of oil or rust-preventing
compound. To do this, remove the spark plugs and pour a small quantity
of engine oil into each cylinder. Then, turn the engine over by hand (pull
the starter cord) a few times to distribute the oil.
To protect the crankcase, crankshaft, carburetor, manifold, and leaf
valves, outboard engines should also be fogged before being stored. In the
fogging procedure, a rust-preventing oil compound is sprayed into the
carburetor intake (or into specially provided fogging hole) while the en-
gine is running. The fogging procedure is continued until the engine
stalls or smokes excessively. The oil compound can also be sprayed into
the cylinders through the spark plug holes to distribute the oil through
the cylinders and around the pistons.
If the outboard engine contains a built-in fuel tank, drain the fuel system.
Then, check the fuel lines and the fuel filter, and clean them if necessary.
If the engine uses a remote fuel tank, you can either empty the tank be-
fore storage, or treat the fuel with a stabilizer. This prevents the gasoline
from breaking down and allows fuel to be stored in the tank for up to
one year.
Next, drain the cooling system. The cooling system should also be
flushed out if the engine has been used in salt water or silty conditions.
Drain and flush the lower unit, and refill the gearcase with the proper
lubricant.
Now, remove the propeller and grease the propeller shaft thoroughly.
Then, lubricate the engine as described earlier in the text. Apply a coating
of automotive wax to the exterior of the lower engine cover and the ex-
haust housing. Disconnect the spark plug wires to prevent an accidental
engine start. Finally, place the engine in an upright position in a dry,
well-ventilated area.
When you remove the engine from storage to prepare it for use, thoroughly
inspect the engine for worn or damaged parts, leaky gearcase seals, and
loose screws. Start the engine up, then check the operation of the cooling
system to make sure that the water pump hasn’t seized. Finally, before
returning the engine to regular service, perform a thorough engine tune-
up according to the procedures described earlier.
Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing
Power Check 2.
44 Outboard Engines

Power Check 2
1–4: Fill in the blanks in the statements.
1. When an outboard engine is tank-tested, the propeller must be removed and replaced by a
_______.
2. The effectiveness of an outboard engine’s cooling system can be checked by testing the tem-
perature of the _______.
3. The normal operating temperature range of most outboard engines is between ________
degrees F and ________ degrees F.
4. After an outboard engine is tuned up, a final test run should be performed, either on a boat
or in a _______.
5–14: Indicate whether each statement is True or False.
_____ 5. In order to inspect an outboard engine’s cylinder head, cylinder walls, pistons, piston
rings, and exhaust ports for excessive wear or carbon accumulation, you’ll need to
remove the cylinder head and the exhaust cover from the engine.
_____ 6. Engines that are used in salt water will require lubrication less often than engines that
are used in fresh water.
_____ 7. If a water-cooled outboard engine is run out of the water, it will rapidly overheat,
which could result in severe damage to the powerhead.
_____ 8. To inspect, adjust, or replace the breaker points in an outboard engine, it will be
necessary to remove the flywheel.
_____ 9. An outboard engine should never be run (even in water) without a propeller or a test
wheel attached to it.
_____ 10. New gaskets should always be used when a powerhead is reassembled.
_____ 11. Outboard engines require little or no preparation for long-term storage, except for
draining the fuel from the fuel tank.
_____ 12. Outboard engine gearcases are factory sealed and don’t require lubrication.
_____ 13. A compression check, a throttle synchronization, a lubrication of the engine, and
a cleaning of the powerhead components are all recommended procedures when
performing a complete tune-up of an outboard engine.
_____ 14. When a compression test is performed on an outboard engine, the compression in
each cylinder should be checked.
Check your answers with those on page 69.
Outboard Engines 45

TROUBLESHOOTING OUTBOARD ENGINES

General Troubleshooting Procedures
The procedures used to troubleshoot an outboard engine are the same
as those used to troubleshoot any other small engine. Troubleshooting
is essentially a process of elimination. The possible causes of a particular
problem are systematically checked and eliminated until the fault is
identified. Then, effective measures are taken to correct the identified
problem.
The most common engine problem is the “no-start” condition. As mentioned
earlier in this course, three conditions must be met before an engine can
run properly. First, the ignition system must produce a spark of the right
intensity at the right time. Second, the proper amount of fuel must be
mixed with the right amount of air, and this mixture must be efficiently
delivered to the combustion chamber. Third, there must be sufficient
compression in the cylinder so that the air-and-fuel mixture can burn to
produce maximum power. If the engine fails to meet any of these condi-
tions, it will fail to start (or at least, run poorly).
The following are the most frequent causes of a “no-start” condition:
• No spark, weak spark, or improperly timed spark
• No fuel, insufficient fuel, or an improper air-and-fuel mixture
• Weak compression
Therefore, when you’re troubleshooting an outboard engine, your first
task is to identify which of these three conditions isn’t being met by the
engine. You can determine the cause of the trouble by systematically
testing the components of the ignition system, the electrical system, and
the fuel system. You’ll also need to check for mechanical failures in the
engine. The procedures used to troubleshoot these engine systems have
been discussed in earlier study units. However, we’ll review some trouble-
shooting procedures here that apply particularly to two-cycle outboard
engines.

Troubleshooting the Ignition System

There are two basic types of outboard engine ignition system problems.
These are
1. No spark, weak spark, or intermittent spark
2. Improper spark timing
If the ignition system fails to produce a spark, or if the spark is too weak
to properly ignite the air-and-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber, a
problem exists in one or more of the components of the ignition system.
Improper timing, however, results from an improper adjustment of the
throttle synchronization linkage or improper ignition timing. Throttle
synchronization and ignition timing were discussed earlier in the section
on engine tune-ups.
46 Outboard Engines

As always, the first step when troubleshooting an ignition system is

to give the system a complete visual inspection. Follow these steps to
perform a visual check:
Step 1: Check the system for loose connections, broken or corroded
wires, worn or damaged parts, damaged insulation, dampness,
or oil-soaked wiring.
Step 2: Examine the spark plugs and replace them as necessary. Make
sure that each plug is gapped to its correct specification.
Step 3: Inspect and clean the spark plug wires. Pay particular attention
to the terminal connections at the plugs and the ignition coils.
Step 4: If the engine contains breaker points, remove the flywheel and
examine the points and condenser(s). Check the condenser
mounts and connections, and tighten them if necessary. Check
the breaker point gap and compare it to the manufacturer’s
specification. Recondition and regap or replace the points as
necessary.
If the visual inspection doesn’t reveal any problem, check any safety in-
terlock switches that the engine or watercraft contains. Some outboard
engines use prevent-start switches that prevent the engine from starting
unless the gear shift is set in neutral. In some small watercraft (such as jet
skis), a safety line connects the operator to the start switch. If the operator
falls off the craft, the line pulls the key out of the switch and stops the
engine. Test the operation of any such safety devices.
Next, if the problem still hasn’t been identified, you’ll need to test the
ignition system components. A spark test will determine whether the
ignition system is producing a proper spark. Condensers, ignition coil
windings, and electronic ignition systems can be tested for shorts to
ground or opens with an ohmmeter. The condenser’s output and capaci-
tance and the output of the ignition coil windings can be tested with a
special coil-condenser tester. The output of an electronic ignition system
can be tested with a voltmeter.

Checking Stop Circuits and Ignition Key Switches

Many outboard engines are equipped with stop buttons or kill circuits.
Some, particularly larger engines with electric starters, also contain igni-
tion switches. These components must be checked if an ignition system
fails to produce a proper spark.
In an engine with a conventional ignition system, the kill circuit is often
just a simple grounding switch. When pressed, the switch shorts the pri-
mary circuit to ground. A fault in the switch or the wiring will cause the
system to fail to produce a spark. You can usually check the kill circuits
in a conventional ignition system visually.
In an electronic ignition system, the kill circuit also grounds the primary
circuit. Usually, only one end of the capacitor is connected to ground.
When the stop button is pressed, both ends of the capacitor are grounded.
Current is prevented from reaching and charging the capacitor. To deter-
mine if a fault is present in the stop button or kill circuit, you’ll need to
bypass the kill circuit.
Outboard Engines 47

The procedure used to bypass and check the kill circuit of a 25 horsepower
or 35 horsepower outboard engine is outlined in the following steps:
Step 1: Separate the three-wire connector between the ignition coil and
the capacitor (power pack).
Step 2: Connect two jumper wires between the capacitor discharge ter-
minals of both ends of the connector, as shown in Figure 34. This
connects the capacitor to the ignition coils, but bypasses the kill
circuit (the third terminal).

FIGURE 34—To bypass and check the kill circuit of a 25 horsepower or 35 horsepower outboard engine, connect
two jumper wires between the capacitor discharge terminals of both ends of the connector, as shown here. This
connects the capacitor to the ignition coils, but bypasses the kill circuit (the third terminal). (Courtesy of the Johnson
Division of the Outboard Marine Corporation)

Step 3: Connect a spark tester. (In a two-cylinder engine, connect the

tester to both of the spark plug leads.)
Step 4: Crank the engine.
If there’s no spark, or if a spark jumps across only one gap of the spark
tester, the kill circuit is okay. If a spark jumps both gaps of the spark
tester, however, a fault is present in the kill circuit. The stop button and
the wiring will have to be replaced to correct the fault. Tether line-type
kill circuits can be tested by connecting a jumper wire to the kill termi-
nals of the kill switch receptacle.
An ohmmeter test can be conducted to check the ignition circuit in an
engine that’s equipped with an ignition key switch. If the ignition switch
circuit tests faulty, use an ohmmeter to determine whether the fault is in
the switch or the wiring.
48 Outboard Engines

Follow these steps to perform the ohmmeter test:

Step 1: Insert the red (positive) ohmmeter lead into the third terminal of
the ignition coil end of the three-wire connector. Connect the
black (negative) ohmmeter lead to ground.
Step 2: Separate the four-wire connector between the magneto and the
capacitor (power pack), and turn the ignition switch to the ON
position.
Step 3: If the ohmmeter produces a reading of infinite ohms (open cir-
cuit), the switch and the wiring are okay. However, if there’s a
fault in the switch or the switch circuit, the ohmmeter will show
a low resistance reading.
Step 4: To isolate the fault, disconnect the stop-circuit lead from the switch.
If the fault is in the switch, the ohmmeter will show a reading of
infinite ohms (open circuit). If the fault is in the wiring, the ohm-
meter will show a low resistance reading (closed circuit).

Testing Electronic Ignition Components

If the results of the spark test are negative and you determine that the
stop button/kill circuit or ignition switch and switch wiring aren’t at
fault, the other components of the ignition system must be tested.
Some of these tests may be performed with an ohmmeter, while others
are performed with a voltmeter.
An ohmmeter set to read low resistance should be used to test the sensor
or trigger coil for excessive resistance or shorts-to-ground. As shown in
Figure 34, separate the four-wire connector between the magneto and the
capacitor (power pack). Then, connect the ohmmeter leads between the
sensor coil lead terminals of the magneto end of the connector. If the
ohmmeter shows a reading of 40 ohms (+/−10 ohms), the sensor coil is in
good condition. If the ohmmeter reading doesn’t fall within this range,
the sensor coil will need to be replaced.
Next, use an ohmmeter set to read high resistance to check the sensor coil
for a short-to-ground. Connect the red (positive) meter lead to one of the
sensor coil terminals of the magneto end of the connector, and connect
the black (negative) meter lead to ground. Observe the meter reading at
this time. Then, move the red meter lead to the other sensor coil terminal
of the connector plug, and observe the meter reading. If you note any dif-
ference between the first meter reading and the second reading, then ei-
ther the sensor coil or the sensor coil leads are shorted to ground. In this
situation, the sensor coil must be replaced, or the defective lead must be
repaired or replaced.
An ohmmeter set to read low resistance is also used to test the magneto
charge coil for resistance and shorts-to-ground. To check the charge coil
resistance, connect the ohmmeter leads between the charge coil terminals
of the magneto end of the four-wire connector. Unless the ohmmeter
shows a reading of 575 ohms (+/−75 ohms), the charge coil will need to
be replaced.
Outboard Engines 49

To check the charge coil for shorts-to-ground, connect the ohmmeter

leads between one of the charge coil terminals and ground. If you note
any fluctuation in the reading when the red (positive) lead is moved
from one charge coil terminal to the other, then the charge coil or the
leads are shorted to ground.
Note that when you test ignition system components, you should consult
the manufacturer’s service manual to determine the proper test readings
you should get. Compare your measured values against the manufactur-
er’s listed values to check for problems. Also, remember that resistance
tests should only be performed when an engine is cool. If an engine is
hot when you perform a resistance test, the readings may be inaccurately
high. Remember that the resistance in an electrical circuit increases as
temperature increases.
Next, use a voltmeter to test the following components with the engine off:

• The sensor coil output

• The charge coil output
• The capacitor (power pack) output
Note that the sensor coil, charge coil, and capacitor may also be tested
with the engine running. However, this type of test requires special test-
ing equipment that enables the engine to run with the connector plugs
separated. In this type of test, the connector ends are plugged into a
special adapter, and readings are taken from pinholes in the adapter.
Use an ohmmeter to test the primary and secondary windings of the ig-
nition coils for resistance and shorts-to-ground. You can perform these
tests with the ignition coils on the engine. However, you must remove the
ignition coils from the engine to test them for high voltage leaks and out-
put power. These tests are performed with a special coil-condenser tester.

Troubleshooting the Electrical System

Remember that the electrical system of an outboard engine with an elec-
tric starter will typically include the following components:

• The starter system

• The charging system
• The battery
• All necessary cables, wiring, connections, and instrumentation
The electrical system in a larger engine may also include an electrically
operated hydraulic pump to run a power trim-and-tilt system, plus the
necessary wiring and controls for the pump.
The most common symptom of electrical system trouble is the failure of
some component (such as the starter motor) to operate. There are numer-
ous possible causes for such a failure, including a dead or defective
battery or a faulty starter motor. However, the most common causes of
50 Outboard Engines

electrical component failures are loose, dirty, corroded, or damaged

wiring or connections. These conditions can prevent the battery from
charging properly or from holding a charge when the engine is running.
They can also prevent current from reaching the starter motor. Therefore,
a careful visual inspection of the wiring and connections should be the
first step in the troubleshooting process.
The remaining procedures used to troubleshoot outboard engine electrical
systems are exactly the same as those used to troubleshoot garden tractor
systems. A detailed discussion of these procedures was provided earlier
in your course.

Troubleshooting the Fuel System

Fuel system malfunctions are usually indicated by a loss of engine power
or difficult starting. However, if the fuel system malfunctions in a way
that prevents fuel from reaching the combustion chambers, the engine
will be impossible to start. Therefore, when you’re troubleshooting the
fuel system, it’s advisable to check out the entire system. This will elimi-
nate the possibility that a fault may have more than one underlying
cause.
A compete check of the fuel system will include the following:

• A check of the fuel tank and supply

• A pressure-test of the remote fuel tanks and fuel hoses
• A carburetor check
• An inspection of the reed valves
• A check of the choke and primer solenoids
• A pressure-test of the fuel pump
Now, let’s look at each of these tasks in more detail.

Checking the Fuel Tank and Supply

Gasoline is an unstable substance. Over time, petroleum gum and var-
nish will develop in the fuel mixture, clogging the fuel filter screen and
other small passages. This clogging restricts the flow of fuel, preventing
the engine from running properly and making it hard to start. Water or
dirt in the fuel tank will also interfere with engine operation. In two-
cycle engines, the oil-and-fuel mixture must also be correct to allow
proper operation. Therefore, if you suspect a problem in the fuel system,
the first step is to drain the fuel tank and flush it with clear gasoline or
solvent. Then, refill the tank with a fresh fuel mixture.
Carefully inspect a fuel tank visually for rust, as well as fuel or vapor
leaks. A badly rusted or leaking tank must be replaced. Check the filler cap
and gasket for wear, damage, or leaks, and replace the parts if necessary.
Outboard Engines 51

Fuel tanks that are mounted in the powerhead (as well as some small re-
mote tanks) are equipped with air vent screws. Larger remote tanks are
vented by one-way disc valves. These valves prevent fuel or fuel vapor
from escaping from the tank, but allow air to enter the tank. If a vent
screw is closed or clogged, or if a vent valve is clogged or stuck, a partial
vacuum will build up inside the fuel tank when the fuel level drops. This
will interfere with and eventually stop the flow of fuel out of the tank,
causing the engine to lose power and stall.
Powerhead-mounted fuel tanks are also provided with fuel shutoff
valves. This valve must be open to allow fuel to reach the carburetor.

Pressure-Testing Remote Fuel Tanks and Fuel Hoses

If you suspect that a remote fuel tank or a fuel supply hose is leaking fuel
or fumes, the tank and hose assembly should be pressure-tested to locate
the leak. Fuel tank pressure tests can be performed with a gearcase pres-
sure tester and a fuel tank adapter, both of which are shown in Figure 35.
You’ll also need a supply of compressed air to perform the test.

FIGURE 35—The equip-

ment needed to pressure-
test a remote fuel tank is
shown here. (Courtesy of the
Johnson Division of the Outboard
Marine Corporation)

To perform a pressure test on a remote fuel tank or hose assembly, follow

these steps:
Step 1: Remove the fuel filler cap and disengage the filler cap retaining
anchor from the fuel tank. Remove the anchor from the filler cap.
Step 2: Empty the fuel tank into an approved safety container. Any fuel
left in the tank during the pressure test may conceal the location
of a leak.
Step 3: Install the fuel tank adapter on the fuel tank as shown in Figure 36.
Then, attach the filler cap (with the anchor removed) to the
adapter.
Step 4: Attach the gearcase pressure tester to the adapter fitting. Then,
open the adapter fitting and the adapter air-release valve. The
adapter air-release valve allows pressure in the fuel tank to
reach the pressure tester gage.
52 Outboard Engines

Step 5: Attach the compressed air nozzle to the stem on the adapter.
Then, pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air until the gage
on the pressure tester reads 10 psi. Use short, quick bursts of
compressed air to avoid over-pressurizing the tank. This will
help prevent damage to the fuel tank or fuel supply hose.
Step 6: The coupling at the engine end of the fuel hose contains a ball-
type check valve that automatically closes when the hose is dis-
connected from the engine. Hold the end of the fuel hose below
the top of the tank, depress the ball, and empty any remaining
fuel in the hose into a container. Bring the air pressure in the
tank back up to 10 psi. Then, close the adapter air-release valve
and remove the pressure tester.
Step 7: Check the tank and hose assembly for leaks by immersing the
tank and fuel hose assembly in water. Submerge the tank and
hose assembly one portion at a time, and look for the presence
of air bubbles. To check the fuel tank coupling, repeat the immer-
sion test with the fuel hose removed from the tank.
Step 8: When the pressure test is completed, release the pressure in the
tank by opening the adapter air-release valve. Do this before you
attempt to remove the filler cap from the adapter.

FIGURE 36—Shown here is

a fuel tank pressure test
adapter installed on a
fuel tank. (Courtesy of the
Johnson Division of the Outboard
Marine Corporation)

If the pressure test indicates that a fuel tank is leaking, replace the tank.
In addition, if you find leaks in the upper housing (which contains the
fuel hose connection, the air inlet valve, and the fuel level indicator), the
upper housing gasket, or any component of the fuel hose assembly, the
part should also be replaced. Manufacturers’ service manuals will con-
tain complete instructions on how to disassemble, repair, and reassemble
the fuel tank upper housing and fuel hose assemblies.
After you replace or repair any parts, the pressure test should be re-
peated as described above to make sure that the leak has been fixed. If
you fail to pressure-test the fuel supply system after repairs, you may un-
knowingly return a leaking fuel tank and fuel hose assembly to service. It
isn’t sufficient to simply refill the fuel tank with fuel to check for possible
leaks. Leakage, particularly of fuel vapors, may occur only when the tank
Outboard Engines 53

and hose assembly becomes pressurized. Pressurization often occurs

when the tank is exposed to sunlight or agitated.

Servicing Carburetors
If an outboard engine carburetor floods when the fuel valve is opened or
the primer bulb is squeezed, the carburetor will need to be removed, dis-
assembled, and cleaned. In order to remove the carburetor from most
outboard engines, you’ll usually need to disconnect the fuel line, the
choke, and the throttle linkages, and remove the air silencer. In some
cases, it may also be necessary to remove the manual starter, the electric
starter, or the fuel pump. Complete instructions for carburetor removal
will be included in an engine’s service manual.
When you disassemble the two-barrel carburetors found on larger engines,
it’s a good idea to make a note of the sizes of the high and intermediate
orifices, as well as the idle air bleed orifice. This ensures that these com-
ponents will be returned to their proper positions when the carburetors
are reassembled. Size numbers will be stamped on the part.
Use extra care when you remove the float chamber from the carburetor
body, and when you remove the float and float arm assembly. These
parts are delicate and easily damaged. When you remove the float valve
and valve seat, take care to prevent damage to the threads in the carburetor
body. Damage in this area will require that the entire body casting be
replaced.
Unless the choke or throttle valves are damaged or excessively worn,
they shouldn’t be removed. In most cases, the screws that hold the valves
to the valve shafts are staked to prevent them from working loose.
After the carburetor is disassembled, the parts can be cleaned. All carbu-
retor parts may be cleaned in solvent, except for the float, float valve, and
float valve seat. A special solvent should be used to remove the deposits
of petroleum gum or varnish that often accumulate in the float chamber
and on the float valve and seat. Once all the parts are clean, visually in-
spect them for any signs of pitting or corrosion. Any parts that are pitted
or corroded will need to be replaced.
During cleaning, thoroughly flush all of the passages in the carburetor
body with solvent, then blow them out with compressed air (use no more
than 30 psi of air pressure). Compressed air should also be used to dry
the parts. Drying carburetor parts with a cloth can leave lint deposits that
may cause problems after the carburetor is reassembled.
Also, be sure to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealer from
the gasket surfaces. When the gasket surfaces are clean, carefully inspect
them for nicks, scratches, or distortions. If necessary, you can refinish the
surfaces of the float chamber and the carburetor body by using a surfacing
plate and an emery cloth to remove minor irregularities.
Next, carefully inspect the float and float arm for damage or wear. Re-
place the cork floats if they’re damaged or oil-soaked. Replace the float
arm if you notice signs of wear in the hinge or in the area where the arm
contacts the base of the float valve.
54 Outboard Engines

If either the float valve needle or the valve seat is nicked, scratched, or
worn, it must be replaced. The condition of the valve seat is critical to
proper engine operation. Therefore, when inspecting it for wear, it’s a
good idea to use a magnifying glass. Also, note that because the float
valve needle and the valve seat are a matched set, if either is worn and
requires replacement, both parts must be replaced.
If the tapered end of the low-speed needle is nicked, scratched, or worn,
it must be replaced. Also, many manufacturers recommend that the
needle packing be replaced, even if the old needle is still usable.
Unless you discover signs of leakage, the core plugs and the lead shots
should need no attention. Minor leakage may be corrected by placing a
flat end punch in the center of the plug or lead shot and giving it a sharp
tap with a mallet. If leaking persists, however, the core plug or lead shot
must be replaced.
Once you’ve completely inspected and cleaned all the parts, the carbure-
tor is ready to be reassembled. When reassembling a carburetor, remember
that you must always use new gaskets, O-rings, and sealing washers, even
if the originals appear to be in perfect shape. Reassembling a carburetor
with used gaskets, O-rings, or washers may cause leaks to develop soon
after the engine is back in service. Carburetor repair kits that contain all
the necessary replacement gaskets and parts are available from outboard
engine manufacturers.
After the float and float valve assembly have been replaced, check the
position of the float with a special gage. The float in a two-barrel carbure-
tor must also be checked for a proper drop, as shown in Figure 37. If the
drop is incorrect, adjust it as necessary. Check the manufacturer’s service
manual to determine any carburetor specifications that you may need to
measure. Also, when installing the float chamber, refer to the service
manual for the proper torque settings. Insufficient torque on the float
chamber screws may result in leakage.

FIGURE 37—This illustration

shows how to check the
drop of a float on a two-
barrel outboard engine
carburetor. (Courtesy of the
Evinrude Division of the Outboard
Marine Corporation)

When you’re reconnecting the fuel lines, check the condition of all of the
hoses and clamps, and replace them as necessary. On an engine that uses
a remote fuel tank, after you mount the carburetor, reconnect the fuel
supply hose and squeeze the primer bulb to check for leaks.
Outboard Engines 55

Inspecting and Servicing Reed Valves

The condition of the reed valves is critical to proper two-cycle engine op-
eration. The reed valve assembly should be clean and free of petroleum
gum or varnish deposits. The reeds must lie perfectly flat against the
valve plate.
To inspect and clean reed valve assemblies, it’s usually necessary to
remove the intake manifold. When you’re disassembling a reed valve
assembly, be careful not to bend the reeds or the reed stops. Bent or dam-
aged reeds can’t be repaired. If they don’t lie perfectly flat against the
plate, they must be replaced. If the reeds require replacement, it’s also a
good idea to replace the reed stops, particularly if the leaves are broken.
If the reed valve plate shows any signs of distortion or wear, it should
also be replaced.
When remounting reed valve assemblies and intake manifolds on the
powerhead, always use new gaskets. Make sure that the gasket surfaces
are clean, free of old gasket material, and in good condition. Consult the
manufacturer’s service manual to determine the proper torque settings.

Checking Choke and Primer Solenoids

Engines that are equipped with electric starters usually contain solenoid-
actuated chokes. Some V-4 engines also use solenoid-actuated primer
systems that are controlled by their ignition switches. As a rule, these
solenoids need very little attention. The plungers should be kept clean so
that they can move freely in the solenoid housing. However, the plungers
shouldn’t be lubricated, since lubrication causes dust and dirt to adhere
to the plunger.
A solenoid can be checked, if necessary, by connecting an ohmmeter
between the solenoid leads. The ohmmeter should be set to read low
voltage. Generally, choke solenoids should register a maximum resis-
tance reading of between 2 ohms and 5.5 ohms.

Pressure-Testing the Fuel Pump

Fuel pump pressure tests are performed only on engines that use remote
fuel tanks. Since the engine must be running during the test, the engine
must be on a boat or in a test tank. To obtain accurate test results, the
fuel tank must be located no more than two feet below the level of the
fuel pump. Before conducting the test, check to make sure that the fuel
tank’s air vent is open and operating properly. Negative or positive pres-
sure in the fuel tank will affect the test results.
Next, install a fuel pump pressure gage between the fuel pump and
the carburetor. With the engine running, the gage should register the
minimum readings specified in the manufacturer’s service manual. The
following table shows the typical minimum readings that should be
obtained. If you don’t get these readings, the fuel pump is defective and
needs to be replaced.
56 Outboard Engines

Table
FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST VALUES
Engine Speed Pressure Reading
600 rpm 1 psi (7 kPa)
2,500 to 3,000 rpm 1.5 psi (10 kPa)
4,500 rpm 2.5 psi (17 kPa)

Troubleshooting Mechanical Problems in the Powerhead

In an outboard engine, mechanical problems in the powerhead can cause
hard starting and loss of power. For example, reduced compression can
be caused by a blown or leaky cylinder head gasket; excessive glazing of
the cylinder walls; or broken, worn, or stuck piston rings. Any of these
mechanical problems can make it difficult (or impossible) to start an en-
gine. Low compression can also cause a loss of power due to incomplete
fuel combustion. Starting problems may also be experienced if water gets
into the crankcases or the cylinders as a result of a leaky gasket or a
cracked engine block.
Other conditions caused by mechanical problems in the powerhead
include

• Knocking
• Severe vibration
• Unusual noises
• Binding
• Overheating
Knocking, for example, can occur as a result of a loose or worn piston
pin, a bent or twisted connecting rod, excessive wear on the cylinder wall
or piston, or a loose flywheel. Any of these conditions may also cause
severe engine vibration. Vibration can also be caused by a damaged pro-
peller or worn engine isolation mounts.
Overheating may be caused by a faulty thermostat or a blockage of the
powerhead water passages. It can also occur as a result of a defective
water pump or a clogged water intake.
Now, let’s look at some of the troubleshooting techniques used to service
the powerhead.

Checking the Compression

The first step when troubleshooting an outboard engine powerhead is to
perform a compression check. This test procedure was covered in detail
earlier in the section on engine tune-ups, but we’ll review it briefly here.
Remember that you must disconnect the ignition system before testing to
prevent the engine from starting accidentally.
Outboard Engines 57

To perform the compression test, turn the engine over by hand and gage
the amount of compression in the cylinders. There should be a lively
“bounce” as each piston passes top dead center (TDC). In general, the
compression is too low if the engine doesn’t “bounce” well as each piston
passes TDC, and is too high if it’s hard to pull past TDC. If you use a
compression gage to perform the test, a difference of more than 10 psi
between cylinders indicates a problem. Also, if the compression reading
is between 10 psi and 15 psi less than the optimum compression specified
in the manufacturer’s service manual, a problem condition exists. Whichever
test method you use, be sure to check the compression in each cylinder.
If you observe any problem conditions during your test, you’ll need to
remove the cylinder head (or heads) and the exhaust cover to determine
the cause of the problem. If the compression of one or more cylinders is
too low, check the condition of the cylinder walls, pistons, and piston
rings. If the compression is too high in one or more cylinders, check for
an excessive buildup of carbon on the cylinder head or piston head.
Inspect the exhaust ports, cylinder head, pistons, and piston rings. If you
find excessive carbon deposits, the powerhead will need to be disassem-
bled and cleaned.

Checking the Cooling System

If an engine is overheating or if the flow of water through the power-
head appears to be reduced, it’s a good idea to start troubleshooting with
a thorough check of the cooling system. The typical outboard engine is
equipped with a small water outlet located immediately above the idle
exhaust relief. This outlet is called a cooling indicator or an overboard
indicator. Heated water will be discharged from this outlet when the
cooling system is functioning properly. If the amount of heated water
discharged from the overboard indicator is reduced, it may be the result
of any of the following problems:

• A sticking or faulty thermostat

• A blockage in the powerhead cooling passages or lower unit water
tube

• A faulty water pump

• A clogged water intake
Any reduction of water flow through the powerhead will cause the en-
gine to overheat. However, note that an engine that’s equipped with a
thermostat will produce a small amount of water discharge until it
reaches its operating temperature and the thermostat opens. Therefore, in
order to properly check an outboard engine’s cooling system, the engine
should be allowed to run for at least five minutes before testing. Then, to
ensure that the engine is operating within its optimum temperature
range, check the powerhead temperature with wax testing sticks.
If an engine is overheating, the first thing that should be checked is the
water intake. If the water intake is clear and free of clogs or blockages,
look at the thermostat next (if the engine has one). To test a thermostat,
you can remove it from the engine and submerge it in a pan of hot water.
The thermostat should open when the test water reaches the thermostat’s
58 Outboard Engines

rated temperature. However, since thermostats are very inexpensive, it’s

usually a more effective troubleshooting procedure to simply replace the
thermostat if you suspect that it’s faulty.
If the overheating problem persists after you replace the thermostat,
there may be trouble in the lower unit. To check the water pump and the
water tube, you’ll need to remove the gearcase. We’ll discuss the trouble
shooting of the lower unit a little later in the study unit.

Correcting the Problem of Binding

An engine is said to be binding when it’s difficult or impossible to turn
over. The flywheel should always turn smoothly and evenly, with a
minimum of resistance. There should be some resistance only when a
piston passes TDC. If an engine appears to be binding when you test it,
never force the engine to turn over. This may cause severe damage to internal
engine parts, as well as to the starter mechanism. To prevent the engine
from starting when you’re checking for binding, disconnect the spark
plug wires or disconnect the magneto from the power pack.
Binding may occur for a variety of reasons. The most common cause is
mechanical damage in the gearcase or powerhead components. Broken
piston rings and damaged bearings (connecting rod bearings and crank-
shaft bearings) are typical powerhead problems. Binding may also occur
if the piston rings are too large for a cylinder (for example, if the wrong
rings were accidentally installed on the piston).

Removing and Disassembling the Powerhead

If you discover a mechanical problem in the powerhead, the powerhead
will need to be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and repaired. Because
there are so many different makes and models of outboard engines, we
can’t provide detailed instructions on how to remove and disassemble
every type of powerhead. However, we can give you general procedures
that are applicable to most outboard engines. Further information about
particular models can be found in manufacturers’ service manuals.
As a general rule, in order to remove a powerhead from the exhaust hous-
ing, you’ll need to remove the following components first (if applicable):

• The fuel tank (if mounted on the powerhead)

• The carburetor(s)
• The manifold and leaf valve assembly
• The fuel pump and fuel lines
• The flywheel and armature plate
• The power pack(s) and/or ignition coils
• The spark plugs
• The starter (or starter motor and solenoid)
Outboard Engines 59

On some larger engines, to make the powerhead lighter and more man-
ageable, the cylinder heads and exhaust covers should also be removed.
Once these components have been removed from the powerhead, the
powerhead can be disconnected from the exhaust housing. This may
involve the removal of part of the lower engine cover to gain access to
the powerhead mounting screws. The powerhead mounting screws are
often located near the base of the manual steering arm or steering linkage.
Remove the mounting screws, then lift the powerhead off the exhaust
housing. For larger engines, this step may require the use of a hoist.
When you place the powerhead on your workbench, be careful not to
damage or bend the inner exhaust tube, which often remains attached to
the powerhead. The studs in the powerhead can be protected by screw-
ing a nut over the end of each stud until the nut is flush with the end of
the stud.
Once the powerhead is safely placed on your workbench, you can begin
to disassemble and inspect its parts. For the most part, powerhead dis-
assembly is a straightforward procedure. Detailed instructions will be
provided in manufacturers’ service manuals. Most manuals will contain
exploded diagrams, with all of the engine parts identified. These diagrams
are very helpful during both the disassembly and reassembly process.
Note that some repairs may not require the complete disassembly of
the powerhead. For example, the upper and lower main crankshaft seals
can usually be replaced without disassembling the powerhead. Usually,
the replacement of the upper crankshaft seal doesn’t even require the
removal of the powerhead from the engine. However, if you need to ser-
vice the cylinder or pistons, you’ll need to completely disassemble the
powerhead.
When disassembling any engine, it’s a good idea to have several clean,
covered containers available that you can use to hold small parts, such
as fasteners and bearings. Containers help to keep small parts clean, safe,
and organized. You can use a different container to hold the parts for
each powerhead area. As we’ve mentioned several times throughout this
course, parts should always be replaced in the exact same position from
which they were removed. This is especially true for moving parts, such
as needle bearings and connecting rod caps.
It’s also important to tag or identify larger parts during the disassembly
procedure. For example, use a grease pencil to mark the cylinder number
on each piston so that you can remember where each piston needs to be
reinstalled. Connecting rods should also be tagged so that they can be re-
assembled with the correct piston. To prevent larger parts from becoming
contaminated with dirt or old oil, keep your work area clean.
Start the disassembly by removing the cylinder head(s) and exhaust
cover(s), if they haven’t already been removed. If the piston(s) need to
be removed, the crankcase must be removed first to allow access to the
connecting rod caps. Be careful to protect the gasket surfaces of the
crankcase and the cylinder block from damage. Remember that there
usually is no gasket between the cylinder block and the crankcase.
60 Outboard Engines

Once the powerhead is disassembled, you’ll need to clean the compo-

nents thoroughly with solvent, then blow them dry with compressed air.
Pay particular attention to cleaning the oil and water passages. When all
the parts have been cleaned, carefully inspect them for wear and damage.
As you examine the components, try to identify the source of the me-
chanical trouble.
The following is a general procedure that can be used to inspect and re-
build the powerhead components. The rebuild procedures that were dis-
cussed earlier in the course in detail will all apply to outboard engines.
However, we’ve provided you with a brief review of the procedures
here.
Step 1: Inspect the cylinder walls carefully for scoring or scuffing, then
measure their roundness and taper. Compare these measure-
ments to the specifications listed in the manufacturer’s service
manual.
Step 2: Deglaze the cylinder(s) with a honing tool. Resize the cylinder(s)
to specifications, if necessary.
Step 3: After the cylinders have been deglazed or resized, clean the
cylinder block with soap and water. Then, clean the block again
with solvent, and blow the block dry with compressed air.
Step 4: Check the exhaust ports for excess carbon deposits. Carefully
scrape any carbon deposits from the ports, if necessary. Remem-
ber that even the slightest amount of carbon can interfere with
the flow of exhaust gases out of the cylinders.
Step 5: Check the piston(s) for wear, and check to see whether the piston
rings are sticking as a result of excessive carbon accumulation.
Clean any petroleum gum and varnish deposits off the pistons
with cleaning solvent. Carefully scrape any carbon deposits
from the top of each piston.
Step 6: Measure the pistons and compare your measurements to the
specifications in the manufacturer’s service manual.
Step 7: Install new rings on the pistons.
Step 8: Clean and carefully inspect the crankshaft and the crankcase
bearings. Bearings that exhibit any signs of corrosion, wear, or
excessive discoloration should be discarded and replaced.
When all the parts have been cleaned and serviced, you can reassemble the
powerhead. Always use new gaskets when you reassemble a powerhead,
and remember to thoroughly clean any old gasket material or cement off
the gasket surfaces. Unless otherwise specified by the gasket manufacturer,
lightly coat both sides of the gaskets with gasket sealing compound.
Before the cylinder head is reinstalled, it should be resurfaced to remove
any high spots from the gasket face. Then, reinstall the cylinder head
using a new gasket. Lightly coat the gasket on both sides with gasket
sealing compound unless otherwise specified. The cylinder head bolts
should then be tightened in the recommended sequence to the manufac-
turer’s recommended torque value.
Outboard Engines 61

Once you’ve identified and repaired the mechanical problem and reassem-
bled the powerhead, the engine operation should be tested, either in a
tank or on a boat. Following the test, and after the engine has cooled to
the touch, the cylinder head bolts should be retorqued in the proper
sequence. Also, note that when a powerhead has been disassembled and
serviced, the engine must be broken in again as if it were new. The proce-
dure for breaking in a new engine was described earlier in the study unit.

Troubleshooting Mechanical Problems in the Lower Unit

Now, let’s turn our attention to mechanical problems in the gearcase and
lower unit. The problems that are commonly associated with malfunc-
tions in the gearcase are the following:

• Severe engine vibration

• Overheating
• A noisy or seized right-angle drive
• Inability to shift gears or remain in gear
Severe engine vibration is often caused by a damaged or loose propeller,
or worn or loose rubber isolation mounts. Vibration may also occur if the
engine isn’t securely mounted on the boat. The stern brackets must be
tightly clamped to the transom. Overheating is often the result of a
clogged water intake, a defective water pump, or a damaged water tube.
A right-angle drive problem may occur due to worn or broken gears, a
damaged gearcase, or inadequate lubrication. A gear shifting problem
may be caused by the improper adjustment of the gear shift mechanism
or by problems in the gearcase.
Now, let’s take a closer look at the troubleshooting methods that are used
to isolate and correct these problems in the lower unit.

Correcting Engine Vibration

The most common cause of vibration in an outboard engine is a damaged
propeller. Examine the propeller for bends, cracks, or breaks in the blades,
and replace them if necessary. Never attempt to repair a cracked or broken
blade by welding. However, you can remove minor nicks by filing. If you
do file out a nick, be careful to retain the original shape of the blade edge.
Also, avoid removing too much metal—the blades will become unbal-
anced. For this reason, badly nicked propellers must be replaced.
Another cause of engine vibration is loose or worn rubber isolation
mounts. An outboard engine contains a number of rubber mounts that
isolate the exhaust housing from the stern bracket. The rubber mounts
absorb engine vibrations and prevent them from being transmitted to the
boat through the transom. The number of rubber mounts an engine con-
tains depends on the engine model. For example, a typical 25 horsepower
or 35 horsepower engine has six mounts. These mounts include two upper
side mounts, two lower side mounts, an upper thrust mount immediately
below the powerhead, and a lower thrust mount between the exhaust
62 Outboard Engines

housing and the lower stern bracket. You can see examples of these
mounts in Figure 11 at the beginning of this study unit.
To inspect the lower thrust and side mounts, remove the cover plates as
shown in Figure 38. Depending on the engine, you may need to remove
the powerhead and the lower engine cover to inspect the upper side and
thrust mounts. Any loose mounts should be tightened, and worn mounts
should be replaced.

FIGURE 38—The locations of

the thrust mounts on an out-
board engine are shown
here. (Courtesy of the Johnson
Division of the Outboard Marine
Corporation)

Servicing the Water Pump

Overheating is commonly caused by a faulty water pump. In order to
service an outboard engine water pump, you’ll usually need to remove
the gearcase from the exhaust housing. Gearcase removal doesn’t require
the removal of the powerhead. However, to prevent accidental engine
starting, the ignition system should be disabled. If you’re working on an
engine with an electric starter, the battery should also be disconnected to
prevent the accidental engagement of the starter motor.
The procedure used to remove and service the water pump will vary
with the engine model. Therefore, you should carefully follow the in-
structions in the manufacturer’s service manual when you remove the
gearcase. The procedure we’ll describe here can be used to remove the
water pump from most engines.
Figure 39 shows the gearcase-attaching hardware of a 35 horsepower,
two-cylinder engine. This is the same engine that was shown earlier in
Figure 11. Before you remove the attaching screws and nuts, you must
remove both the port and the starboard water intake screens. This step
must be done first in order to gain access to the shift rod connector. Then,
remove the keeper and the upper connector from the upper shift rod to
allow the gearcase to be lowered (Figure 40).
Outboard Engines 63

FIGURE 39—The gearcase

attaching hardware of a 35
horsepower engine is shown
here. (Courtesy of the Johnson
Division of the Outboard Marine
Corporation)

FIGURE 40—Remove the

keeper and the upper
connector from the upper
shift rod to allow the gear-
case to be removed. Figure
40A shows a close-up view
of the shift rod connection.
Figure 40B shows the removal
of the upper connector and
the keeper. (Courtesy of the
Johnson Division of the Outboard
Marine Corporation)
64 Outboard Engines

As you lower the gearcase off the midsection, be careful to prevent dam-
aging the driveshaft as it emerges from the exhaust housing. Also, depend-
ing on the engine model, the water tube that connects the water pump to
the powerhead may come away with the gearcase. Figure 41 shows the
water tube still attached to the water pump impeller housing.

FIGURE 41—Shown here is the

water pump of a 35 horse-
power outboard engine with
the water tube still attached.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of the
Outboard Marine Corporation)

Disassembling the water pump is a simple matter of first removing the

water tube and water tube grommet, then removing the impeller housing
attaching screws. The water pump impeller housing is then lifted up the
driveshaft and removed.
Figure 42 shows a water pump with its housing removed. You can now
remove the impeller by lifting it up the driveshaft. Unless the impeller
pin is damaged, you should save it. The gasket that lies between the
housing and the impeller plate and the gasket that lies between the im-
peller plate and the gearcase should both be discarded.

FIGURE 42—Shown here is

a water pump with its
housing removed.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division
of the Outboard Marine
Corporation)
Outboard Engines 65

Next, inspect the impeller, impeller housing, cup, and the impeller plate
for wear, damage, or corrosion. Replace parts as necessary. If the impel-
ler housing seal leaks, allowing water to escape from the pump chamber
and reducing pump pressure, the seal should be replaced. To install a
new impeller housing seal, you’ll need to use the special tool shown in
Figure 43. Place the housing upside-down on a wooden block that has a
3 -inch diameter hole cut in it. The hole will accept the end of the tool as
4
the seal is seated.

FIGURE 43—A special tool

is needed to install a new
impeller housing seal.
(Courtesy of the Johnson Division of
the Outboard Marine Corporation)

To reassemble the water pump, apply a light coating of gasket sealing

compound to both sides of new impeller plate gaskets. These gaskets
aren’t interchangeable and must be installed in the proper positions in
order for the pump to function. Install the gaskets. Then, apply a dab of
needle bearing grease to hold the impeller pin in place on the driveshaft,
and slide the impeller into place.
Insert a new water tube grommet into the water outlet on the impeller
housing. If the impeller cup was removed from the housing in order to
replace the seal, reinstall it in the housing. Then, slide the housing down
over the driveshaft.
Before you fit the housing over the impeller, apply a little oil to the tips of
the impeller blades. Slowly rotate the driveshaft in a clockwise direction
as you lower the housing over the impeller. This must be done to ensure
that the impeller blades are properly positioned in the housing. (The
pump housing is off-center with respect to the driveshaft and impeller.)
Next, tighten the pump impeller housing screws, and install the water
tube in the grommet in the pump outlet. Finally, install the gearcase on
the exhaust housing.
66 Outboard Engines

Servicing the Gearcase

The most common symptom of a gearcase problem is excessive noise.
Noise can be caused by several conditions. For example, if the seals or
plugs are faulty, lubricant will be lost. The resulting inadequate lubrica-
tion of the gears will cause noise. Contaminants in the lubricant (such as
metal particles or water) will also cause noise as well as greatly accelerated
wear. If you find evidence of metal particles or water in the lubricant,
you’ll need to disassemble the gearcase and check the components for
excessive wear or damage.
A gearcase pressure test will reveal the presence of leaking seals. How-
ever, a gearcase vacuum test may also be advisable, particularly if the
problem is water in the gearcase. To perform a gearcase vacuum test, you
must first drain the gearcase, and then attach a gearcase vacuum tester to
the drain. Then, reduce the internal pressure in the gearcase until the test
gage reads between three inches and five inches of mercury. Then, watch
the gage for a few seconds. The reading should stay the same. If the read-
ing drops, the gearcase is losing pressure. If the gearcase retains the partial
vacuum, reduce the internal pressure further until the test gage reads 15
inches of mercury. If the gearcase can still retain the partial vacuum, the
seals are okay. If the pressure reading drops, the gearcase seals are leaking.
To locate a leak in a seal, spread a little oil around the perimeter of the
seal. Apply the oil to one seal at a time, then repeat the vacuum test and
watch the oil. If the oil is drawn into the gearcase during the test, that
seal is at fault. Be sure to check all the seals in this manner—more than
one may be leaky. In order to remove and replace a leaky driveshaft seal,
the water pump and the gearcase cover must often be removed. The pro-
peller must be removed in order to replace the propeller shaft seals.
Noise in the gearcase may also be caused by problems in the right-angle
drive components. Although the operation of the right-angle drive is vir-
tually identical in all engines, different engine models will have different
gearcase housings. This will affect the way in which the gearcase is dis-
assembled.
For example, the gearcase in a smaller outboard engine is usually cast in
a single piece. This is also true when an engine’s exhaust outlets are located
in its propeller hub. (The 35 horsepower, two-cylinder engine shown in
Figure 11 has its exhaust outlets in the propeller hub.) When a gearcase is
cast in one piece, the right-angle drive components will need to be re-
moved from the gearcase one at a time. In other engines, the gearcase is
made in two parts. In this type of engine, when the lower section of the
gearcase has been removed, you can simply lift the propeller shaft out of
the upper section of the gearcase. The bearing head, bevel gears, clutch
dog, and front bearing remain on the propeller shaft. The shift lever re-
mains attached to the shift rod.
If you suspect a problem in the right-angle drive components, remove
the gearcase. Then, inspect the gearcase for damage. A bent, dented, or
cracked gearcase must be replaced. Next, remove the propeller and dis-
assemble the propeller shaft components on the workbench. Note that
special tools are required to pull or drive out driveshaft seals and bearings,
pinion gear bearings, and shift rod bushings.
Outboard Engines 67

Next, thoroughly clean all the gearcase parts, including the drive gear
components, the propeller shaft, the driveshaft, and the bearings and
retainers. Then, blow the components dry with compressed air. All the
old oil seals, O-rings, and gaskets removed from the gearcase should be
discarded.
Inspect all the parts carefully for wear or damage, paying particular at-
tention to the upper and lower driveshaft splines. If these parts are badly
worn, the entire lower unit may be bent out of alignment (perhaps as a
result of striking a submerged object). If the upper driveshaft splines are
damaged, the crankshaft splines are probably damaged as well. If the
crankshaft splines are damaged, the powerhead will need to be removed
and a new crankshaft installed.
Next, remove the exhaust housing and check it for damage and straight-
ness. Check the forward and reverse drive gears and the clutch dog
carefully. If the engagement surfaces of the clutch dog or the drive gears
are chipped or rounded off, the operator is probably shifting gears at
excessive rpm. Replace the parts as necessary.
The contact surfaces between the gearcase and the exhaust housing should
be carefully checked for nicks, scratches, or distortions. If the engine has
a two-piece gearcase, check between the two halves of the gearcase for
wear or damage. Minor irregularities on the contact surfaces can be re-
moved by resurfacing the area (in the same way that the cylinder head
gasket surfaces are refinished). However, if the surfaces are severely
marred, the component must be replaced.
Once all the components have been cleaned, inspected, and replaced as
needed, you can reassemble the gearcase. Never force any assemblies
together when you’re reassembling the gearcase. Components that are
supposed to fit together should go together easily, unless press fits are
required. Lightly coat the oil seals with gasket sealing compound before
installation. Always use new gaskets and O-rings. Consult the manufac-
turer’s service manual to find the proper fastening torque values. After
the gearcase is reassembled, but before the gearcase is reinstalled on the
exhaust housing, pressure-test and vacuum-test the gearcase to make
sure it’s properly sealed. Then, reattach the gearcase to the engine.
Now, take a few moments to review what you’ve learned by completing
Power Check 3.
68 Outboard Engines

Power Check 3
1–4: Fill in the blanks in the statements.
1. Any reduction of water flow through the powerhead will cause the engine to _______.
2. An outboard engine contains a number of rubber mounts that isolate the _______ from the
_______.
3. Heated water will be discharged from the _______ when the cooling system is functioning
properly.
4. If the _______ in a fuel tank is closed or clogged, it may cause vacuum pressure to build up
in the fuel tank.
5–14: Indicate whether each statement is True or False.
_____ 5. A fuel pump pressure test is performed with the engine off.
_____ 6. After a powerhead has been disassembled and serviced, the engine must be broken in
again as if it were new.
_____ 7. The powerhead must be removed in order to inspect the gearcase.
_____ 8. In order to remove an outboard engine’s carburetor, you may also need to remove the
starter.
_____ 9. An outboard engine’s rubber isolation mounts absorb engine vibrations and prevent
them from being transmitted to the boat through the transom.
_____ 10. The accumulation of metal particles in a gearcase is normal and no cause for alarm.
_____ 11. Petroleum gum and varnish in the fuel mixture can clog the fuel filter screen and other
small passages, restricting the flow of fuel and preventing the engine from running
properly.
_____ 12. Outboard engine ignition and electrical systems require special troubleshooting proce-
dures because they’re different from other small engine ignition and electrical systems.
_____ 13. Bent or damaged reeds in a reed valve assembly can often be repaired.
_____ 14. If a carburetor’s float chamber screws are too loose, the carburetor may leak.
Check your answers with those on page 69.
 69

Power Check Answers

8. True
1
9. True
1 False 10. True
2. False 11. False
3. False 12. False
4. True 13. True
5. False 14. True
6. transom
7. trim angle, tilt range
3
8. exhaust housing, propeller hub
9. propeller shaft 1. overheat

10. thermostat, powerhead 2. exhaust housing, stern bracket

11. gearcase, driveshaft 3. cooling indicator or overboard indicator

12. blade tip, inner hub 4. vent

13. port, starboard 5. False

14. powerhead, midsection, lower unit 6. True

7. False
8. True
2
9. True
1. test wheel 10. False
2. powerhead 11. True
3. 125, 165 12. False
4. testing tank 13. False
5. True 14. True
6. False
7. True
70 Power Check Answers

NOTES