instructables

Dash Camera Power Supply With Ultra Low "power Off" Consumption
(50uA)

by kuzysk

This power source is intended for Dash cameras permanent power supply. Compared to commercial models, it has 50 to
100 times lower consumption in the o state.
I bought a commercial MiVue SmartBox lll, but it is not as smart as it is called. In the "power o mode" when the camera
is turned o due to low voltage, it still draws about 3.5 mA from the car battery! In other words, every 12 days it
consumes 1 Ah from your car battery. If you add this 3.5 mA to the "normal consumption" of a switched-o "modern
car" (which is 2 to 30mA) then, after long-term parking in cold conditions (or if your battery is old) it can cause the car will
not start.
This circuit will help you to save your car battery. My power source for dash cam will takes 1Ah from your battery during
830 days (more then 2 years) not just 12 days! I thing only now it is possible to call the mode "power o mode" even if it is
actually still stand by mode.
Notes:
If you do not need the "Power O " function at the pre-programmed voltage level and you also don't need timer, then
you simply do not solder the chip (and its components) to PCB. In such a case the device will work as standard 12V to 5V
converter controled by ACC input. The "Power O " consumption will stay on 50uA.
Possibility to use in 24V vehicles. Then the C4,C8,C11 have to be for minimal 35V! C8 minimal capacitance is 470uF!
(recommended is 680uF) .
Supplies:

I designed the PCB so that I could use the box and cabling from the commercial product SmartBox lll. (I
will make a 3D model of the box in the future).
The basis is the LM2596M-5.0V converter from China. Yes, you read correctly from China. It has the same
designation as the original LM2596. I made device from both, the original and the Chinese copy. There are
three di erences:
1. The original works at a frequency of 150kHz, the Chinese at 56kHz - the original is better here
2. The original in OFF mode takes 170 uA even though according to the catalogue it should have 80 uA!
Chinese takes only 50uA! (I tried three pieces)
3. I bought ten pieces from China for the price of one original from DigiKey.
For simplicity and general extension of Arduino, I used the same ATmega328 processor in the design. -
We will create our own Arduino from the PCB by burning the bootloader into the processor. For this we
will need, for example, an Arduino Uno.
You will need software Arduino IDE and programmer to program the PCB. Write "Mini USB To FT232 TTL"
to ebay or AliExpress to nd programmer similar to pictured. The pins on the programmer are in order:
DTR, RXI, TXO, VCC, CTS, GND.
other parts according to the schematics diagram. Used crystal is 3.2 x 2.5 mm in size, for example DigiKey
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 ECS-160-9-33B-CKY-TR. Resistors are 0805 size except R18, R20. Capacitors size is also 0805 except high
value capacitors 10uF and above. Switch Digi-Key Part Number 2449-KG04E-ND or similar from China for
1/10 of the price :-). I bought switches here . Inductors I used are: 47uH MGAH1004470M-10 and 6.8uH
MGAH06036R8M-10

Notes:
Schematics is designed in Eagle. Possible to edit if you need. Not possible upload .sch le here so rename
le "2023_daschcam5.3.sch.brd" to "2023_daschcam5.3.sch". (erase ".brd" on the end of le name)
I used low pro le small size coils for which I had to create a library in Eagle. You can also use other
commonly available coils, but be careful as it is a switching part and for proper operation you must follow
the principles described in the LM2595 datasheet. - Lines as short as possible!
Capacitors should be rated for twice the applied voltage. So C8 470uF/25V for normal cars and 470uF/50V
for trucks.

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Step 1: Solder All Parts to the Chip Side Only.

Solder all parts to the chip/processor/mc side only.

Step 2: The Bootloader

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In this step, we actually will create a Arduino compatible board from our our PCB by burning bootloader into the chip.
The procedure is on the Internet here: https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP
We only need to correctly connect Arduino Uno pins 10,11,12,13 with our board. The pin order on the board is the same.
In the Adruini IDE, select "Arduino as ISP" from the example, then select "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini" and the correct 5V
16MHz processor. Then set "Arduino as ISP" and burn the bootloader.
After this step we know the chip on the board works - nice, lets continue.
Alternative Option (in case you do not have Arduino Uno) ... buy chip with bootloader or buy Arduino Pro Mini 5V16MHz
from China for 2-3 Euros. Desolder chip and solder it on our PBC.
Notes:
There's no need to solder the wires if you're handy enough, but of course you can solder them if "the devil
sits on them"
There are some other ways to put the code into the chip without a bootloader and without Arduino IDE
(e.g. using USBasp), but I think experienced people know how and I don't need to write a hole page about
it here.

Step 3: Programing
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Download code and open it in Arduino IDE (do not forget to change programmer back to "AVRISP mkll" )
Connect programmer to PC, nd correct port in Arduino IDE
Connect programmer an board as on picture.
Upload code to board.
I will describe the code later on.
Note:
There also is no need to solder contacts and actually I do nor recommend do it. It is much easier here comparing the
pervious step.

Download
https://www.instructables.com/FOQ/FOXS/LFTZ7Y4V/FOQFOXSLFTZ7Y4V.ino

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Step 4: Solder the Remaining Parts

Solder the remaining pats to PCB. - Multi switch is not pictured but solder it too.
Note:
Use "Low ESR" capacitors here, othervise you risk problems with funkcionality.

Step 5: Connect the Wires

Input side:
GND - GND
12V - permanent connection to car's battery / allays about 12V on pin.
ACC - Voltage 12V only when the car's engine is works / you will nd the same marking in your car
Output side:
GND - GND
5V - to 5V USB pin
p-pin - Park pin, used in some models of smart Dash cameras to sett the Parking Mode. / Not necessary for work

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Step 6: Settings

There are 4 switches on the device:

switch N |1 2 | 1 2 | 1 2 | 1 2
..ON.......| 1 1 | 0 1 | 1 0 | 0 0
..............|12.6V | 12.4V| 12.2V|12.0V

switch N | 3 4 | 3 4 | 3 4 | 3 4
....ON.... | 1 1 | 0 1 | 1 0 | 0 0
.............|OFF | 6h | 12h | 24h
Note: When timer is sett to OFF the device will to "Power o mode" immediately when ACC is missing.

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There are two LED:
The green one, LED1 is on when ACC is conected and device is alwais ON.Regardless of battery voltage
there is 5V on the uotput.
The red one, LED2 is on when voltage falls below the set value 12V;12.2V;12.4V or 12.6V. It means: If ACC is
OFF and LED2 is ON than the device will to "Power OFF" after a couple of cesonds (I programed it to 30s -
if I remebrer well)

Timer:
When ACC is OFF (you park your car) and there is enough power on cars battery (voltage is above the set
value) device will to "Power O " mode after the set time.(6, 12 or 24 hours)
timer OFF means "Power O " mode directly after the ACC is OF.

Note:
For the proper functioning of my own camera (Mio MiVue 886), one sequence is inserted in the program, which ensures
the correct activation of the recording mode. The sequence is also connected to LED2, so when the device is turned on,
LED2 also ashes regardless of the battery voltage.

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Step 7: Enjoy

Later on I plan to make 3D model for case and will describe di erences between USB cables used to supply dash
cameras. They are looking same bat are not same. Not all have just 5 pins and not all have Park pin. But for now I it is all I
have time to write and to publish as English is not my native language and all takes long time.
Please correct my "English" if you will nd something completely wrong written.
Note: As usually due to order my PCB from www.jlcpbc.com where 5pcs is minimum amount I have some PCB boards I
can share.

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