Troubleshooting A Video Adapter and Computer Monitor
Troubleshooting A Video Adapter and Computer Monitor
Warning! You must unplug your ATX power supply from the wall before working
inside the case. Click diamonds for troubleshooting details.
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Copyright 2008 by
Morris Rosenthal
All Rights Reserved
Video Card Problem
Is the system power coming on? Can you hear fans turning and drive motors spinning up, see
little lights on the front of the CPU case, hear any beeps? We're talking about system power here,
not the monitor power. If the system isn't powering up, or if you aren't sure whether or not it is,
go to the Power Supply Failure chart now.
Does anything at all show up on the screen with the monitor power on, or is it just as black as
before you powered on the CPU? We aren't demanding any signs of intelligent life in this case,
any sign of life will do.
Assuming the system power comes up, does the monitor power come on? Most monitors have a
status LED on the front bezel that should show green, orange, or blinking if the monitor is
powered on. You can also hear most monitors power on with a gentle sound, though I can't
describe it beyond saying it's the sound of a CRT tube warming up. Make sure the monitor is
plugged into a good outlet by testing the outlet with a lamp or any other device that will prove
beyond a doubt that the outlet is good. Make sure that the power cord is either permanently
attached at the monitor end or that it is seated fully in the socket, since partial cord insertion is
the most common failure for monitors with detachable cords.
LCD displays don't make any sound when you turn them on, but they don't have a simple power
cord, either. LCD monitors are usually powered by an external transformer, which in turn is
powered from a regular AC outlet. If the LCD display doesn't show any signs of life, make sure
that the cords into and out of the transformer are fully seated. Some transformers are equipped
with a status LED to show when they are operating, though you can also check for live output
with a DC voltmeter. The power connection to the LCD display is often awkward to inspect,
recessed into the back of the display. The important thing is to make sure it is started correctly,
then seated all the way.
Few things related to computers are more embarrassing than taking your monitor for repair and
finding out that the brightness was turned all the way down. This frequently happens with
exposed dials when you pick up the computer monitor and move it, though a prankster might
also turn down the settings when they're concealed behind a pop-out door right under the screen.
Make sure that manual brightness and contrast controls on the monitor are set somewhere in the
middle of their range, since it's not always obvious which way is maximum or minimum. If the
monitor is alive, turning the brightness and contrast all the way up will often result in the screen
lighting up a little. The easiest way to check if the monitor is good is to simply attach it to
another working PC.
Return to Diagnostic Chart
If you see nothing but a single underline character blinking on and off, usually in the top left-
hand corner of the screen, there's probably a problem with initializing the video adapter. That
could be caused by the adapter being improperly seated, the motherboard not initializing the
adapter properly, or any other motherboard related failure. Continue with the diagnostic
flowchart.
Most new monitors will display something such as "No signal source," or "Attach video signal,"
as long as they are healthy, and powered on. These messages should appear even if the PC or
video adapter is dead. This is actually one of the more useful innovations in monitor technology,
because it offers definitive proof that the computer monitor or LCD display is alive and most
likely capable of displaying an image if a video signal was present. Unfortunately, it only proves
something by its presence, since older monitors and cheaper models may not display anything at
all.
Make sure the 15 pin video signal cable (3 rows of 5 pins each) is seated squarely on the video
port on the back of the video card. The hold-down screws on either side of the connector should
be screwed in all the way, but not made up too tight. If the video cable is connected correctly,
remove it and inspect the connector for damage.
Look carefully at the pins in the connector to make sure none of them are at an angle or flattened
against the bottom. Note that missing pins in a video cable are the norm, usually the monitor ID
pins. It's great if you have a spare video cable and a monitor with a detachable cable, but most
monitors have an integrated cable (doesn't detach) and most people don't have a spare anyway.
You'll usually have to settle for visual inspection for whether the cable may have been crushed or
breached.
If you see that a pin in the connector is bent, you can try to straighten it very slowly with
tweezers or fine needle nose pliers. If a pin breaks, you can buy a replacement connector and
solder it on with a fine soldering iron and infinite patience. You'll also need a heatshrink gun and
tubing if you want to do it right. The last time I did one it took me almost three hours, though I
didn't really have the right soldering iron tip.
1-Red
2-Green
3-Blue
4-Monitor ID (Note: pins for ID bits often not present)
5-Ground
6-Red Return (coax shield)
7-Green Return (coax shield)
8-Blue Return (coax shield)
9 No-Connection
10-Sync Ground
11-Monitor ID
12-Monitor ID
13-Horizontal-Sync
14-Vertical-Sync
15-Monitor ID
Do you hear a string of beeps? Healthy PCs should beep once or twice when they are turned on
and pass their Power On Self Test (POST) routine. While different BIOS manufacturers use
different beep codes to identify failures, a repeating string of beeps (three or nine in a row) is a
common indicator of video card failure.
To start troubleshooting the video adapter, check if it's is properly seated. This is an in-the-box
check, so make sure you unplug the power cord to the system first. You can usually spot a poorly
seated video adapter, especially AGP adapters, as more of the contact edge of the card is out of
the socket towards the front of the case than the back. This doesn't apply to motherboards with
built-in video. Whether or not the video adapter appears to be seated properly, reseat it. Remove
the video adapter hold-down screw, remove the adapter, then reseat it in the slot, pushing down
evenly. Be careful that putting the hold-down screw back in doesn't lever the front edge of the
video adapter (the end away from the screw) up a fraction of an inch out of the slot, because
that's all it takes.
If reseating the card doesn't clear up the beeps, it's either video adapter failure or RAM on the
motherboard. You can power down and try reseating the RAM at this point, without going all the
way through the motherboard diagnostics. There used to be beep codes for all sorts of component
failures, but most of those components have long since been integrated into the motherboard and
can't be replaced if they fail.
Does the system get as far as showing the BIOS screen and locking up? By BIOS screen, we're
talking about the text information or brand-name graphics that appear on the screen in the initial
boot stages. A system that freezes up at this point is rarely suffering from a video failure, though
a conflict between the video card and another installed adapter is still possible.
Return to Diagnostic Chart
Did you install any new adapters immediately before the video card problem appeared? With the
power disconnected, remove any other adapters, one at a time, then reconnect power and attempt
to reboot after each removal. Locking up on the BIOS screen is often due to an adapter conflict,
but if removing the other adapters doesn't solve the problem, proceed to Motherboard, CPU and
RAM Failure.
Do you get a live screen, or at least move past the BIOS screen, with all the other adapters
removed? If so, the problem is either a bad adapter preventing proper operation of the bus or an
adapter conflicting with the video card. In either case, you can reinstall the adapters one at a
time, powering up after each one, troubleshooting the problem by process of elimination. Don't
forget to unplug the system each time before taking any action inside the case.
If the motherboard is a new upgrade, try the video adapter in another system before trashing it,
since it could be a simple incompatibility. If installing a new video adapter doesn't solve your
"dead screen" problem, it's probably a motherboard related problem, even though you got to this
point without any beep codes. Proceed to Motherboard, CPU and RAM Failure. I just added an
illustrated guide for how to replace an AGP video adapter to the site.
The book can ordered from Amazon for $14.95, or from Amazon UK for £9.95 or
through any retail store by the title "Computer Repair with Diagnostic Flowcharts
Revised Edition" or ISBN which is: 0-9723801-7-5.
Computer Repair | Power Supply Troubleshooting | Video Card Diagnostics | CPU, RAM
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