4 FREE PATTERNS—DETAILS

LS INSIDE! UNIQUE
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7
SUMMER
WARDROBE
BASICS
• Fringe Vest
• Lacy Cover-up
• Stylish Swimwear
& more!

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Knit Know-How
& CREATE AN EASY TEE
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BUST DARTS P. 26

JUNE/JULY 2016
sewnews.com
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Calling all go-getters! Time to customize your prize during the Koala Select Your Studio Sweeps,
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 28
CONTENTS
FEATURES
26 DARTS OR BUST
Learn a unique technique
for horizontal bust darts.

28 CASE OF THE FUNDAYS

Create a classic doctor’s bag
with modern leather accents.

34 FRINGE FOREVER
Make a Boho-inspired faux
leather vest.

38 PEACHY KEEN
Create a cute collar for
an easy-sew top.

40 LACY DAYZ
Stitch a pretty swimsuit cover-
up, perfect for beach weather.

43 RESORT READY
Sew a breezy summer maxi
dress, no pattern needed.

46 FIT FINDER:
BLOUSES & TOPS
Pick the right blouse
pattern for your shape.

52 WORKSHOP ESSENTIALS
Stitch a men’s apron and
tool roll just in time for
summer projects.

55 METHODS TO MASTER:
SIDE SEAM POCKETS
Add side seam pockets
to any garment with this
helpful method.

JUNE/JULY
ISSUE 353
2016
2 SEWNEWS.COM JUNE/JULY 2016
 52 62

ON THE
COVER

26 Join our
SEW-ALONG.
Get the pattern at
shopsewitall.com.

34 40

COLUMNS IN EVERY ISSUE

14 JOI OF FITTING: Pattern Transfer Techniques 4 Editor’s Letter 12 Cool Tools
17 BASIC SKILLS: Needle Know-How 6 Experts 70 Ask the Editor
22 PATTERN PLAY: Twisted Pleats Skirt 8 Online Extras 71 Off the Shelf
58 CREATIVE SPACE: Jenny Hart 10 From You 72 Last Laugh
62 SEW & TELL: Soma Swimsuit 11 Reader Tips
66 FASHION FETE: Haute Tropics
68 HOME COUTURE: Mod Minimalism Learn about our new
SEW WITH ME PATTERNS
on page 60!

SEWNEWS.COM 3
EDITOR
DEAR READERS,
Don’t you love packing up your winter sweaters, hats and gloves
and swapping them for T-shirts, skirts and sundresses? It’s like a
whole new wardrobe has come out to play, and I always find things
I totally forgot I owned. But as new as it all seems, there’s plenty of
room to add some fun garments to the party.
This issue is full of garments that will take you into summer in
style. If you’re packing for a beach getaway, you’ll need a cover-up of
some kind, and the easy lace tank on page 40 is just the ticket. Maybe
you need a statement piece to wear for a night out—the fringe vest
on page 34 is sure to turn some heads. Or keep it casual in a sweet
sundress with unique pleat details (page 26).
Before you go crazy making new tops from all the great rayon,
voile and cotton summer fabrics hitting the fabric stores, learn which
style is right for your body type. Resident expert Rae Cumbie makes
sure you’ve chosen a top that will provide a flattering fit from the start
in her second installment of “Fit Finder” on page 46.
A great bag to fit all of your travel essentials is a must. Find our
take on a classic, elegant tote reminiscent of a doctor’s bag on page
28. This tote can take on a different look in an instant, depending on
your fabric and hardware choices. Download the free pattern, plus
learn tips and tricks for working with leather and inserting bag frames.
There’s truly something for everyone in this issue. Now it’s just a
matter of finding the time between poolside cocktails, outdoor parties
and sprinkler jumping to sew it all!
Happy summer!

Ellen March Find four

new hand
embroidery
patterns
by Sublime
Stitching’s® Jenny Hart,
made exclusively for
Sew News, on
page 60.

WHAT’S NEXT?
TRANSFORM A BASIC BLAZER INTO A SAFARI-STYLE JACKET THAT’S GREAT FOR LAYERING; CREATE A TRENDY
BRACELET USING LEATHER SCRAPS AND EMBELLISHMENTS; DECORATE YOUR HOME COUNTRY FARMHOUSE STYLE;
AND MORE. FIND THE NEXT SEW NEWS ISSUE ON NEWSSTANDS JULY 19, 2016.

4 SEWNEWS.COM JUNE/JULY 2016

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VIKING, DESIGNER EPIC, DESIGNER JADE and MADE FOR SEWERS, BY SEWERS are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA and the
“crowned H-mark” are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM Group AB. © 2015 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.a.r.l.
EXPERTS Find out about the talented experts featured in this
issue, and visit their websites for more fun extras.

RHONDA BUSS RAE CUMBIE

(“Sew & Tell: The Soma Swimsuit”—page 62) (“Fit Finder: Blouses & Tops”—page 46) is the
is a woman of many talents. She’s a pilot, Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which
writer, artist, dog lover and sewist. She lives offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics
in Chicago, where she drafts patterns and focusing on fit and artful design options. She
sews for her blog, Rhonda’s Creative Life. coaches sewists of all skill levels in classes
rhondabuss.blogspot.com and on her blog. fitforartpatterns.com

CHRISTINE HAYNES ANA JANKOVIC

(“Darts or Bust”—page 26) is a Los Angeles- (“Pattern Play: Twisted Pleats Skirt”—page 22)
based sewing instructor, author and pattern- is a computer programmer who expresses
maker with her own line of vintage-inspired her creativity by sewing in her free time.
patterns–Christine Haynes Patterns. She’s a self-taught sewist and designer
christinehaynes.com residing in Belgrade, Serbia.
citystitching.com stepalica.blogspot.com

JOI MAHON MORGAN MEREDITH

(“Joi of Fitting: Pattern Transfer Techniques” (“Workshop Essentials”—page 52) runs
—page 14) is a fashion designer and owner Thread Theory Designs Inc. with her
of Dress Forms Design Studio, LLC. She’s husband Matt from their humble abode on
a past winner of the American Sewing Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. Morgan is a
Expo Passion for Fashion contest and is sewing fanatic with a background in history
the founder of Baby Lock’s Love of Fashion and fashion design.
Programs. dressformsdesign.com threadtheory.ca

MELISSA MORA LINDA REYNOLDS

(“Methods to Master: Side Seam Pocket”— (“Resort Ready”—page 43) learned to sew
page 55, “Peachy Keen”—page 38) spent 12 at a very young age and has enjoyed it
years as high school theater teacher before ever since. She loves sharing her passion
leaving to become the full-time designer/ for the craft as an instructor, teaching
owner of Blank Slate Patterns and blogger garment sewing to teens and adults.
of the popular Melly Sews. A native Texan, simplysewingstudio.com
Melissa lives in Austin with her husband and
two boys. mellysews.com

KIM SABA
(“Fashion Fete: Haute Tropics”—page 66, Have a
“Home Couture: Mod Minimalism”—page question for one
68, “Lacy Daze”—page 40, “Case of the of our experts?
Fundays”—page 28, “Fringe Forever”—page
34) holds a degree in fashion design from
E-mail sewnews@
the Fashion Institute of Technology. She sewnews.com.
loves to sew, play with her two dogs and
collect everything vintage.
kimsaba.com

6 S E W N E W S.CO M J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 I O N
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Novice, intermediate, or master, whatever your level, you’ll learn new techniques and skills for your favorite passion,
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ONLINE EXTRAS
Visit the
Sew News blog sewnews.com
at sewnews.com email: sewnews@sewnews.com
New Online Classes from for giveaways, EDITORIAL
Community Content Director Ellen March
tutorials and
Craft Online University more!
Senior Editor
Managing Editor
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Veronica Graham
Technical Editor Eliane Pinto
Attend online sewing classes, courses Online Editor Jill Case
Assistant Editor Jessica Ziebarth
and workshops from expert sewing ART
instructors and take your sewing skills to the next level. Have Creative Director Sue Dothage
Graphic Designer Danielle Fay
you always wanted to learn how to draft your own slopers? Photography Jessica Grenier,
Donald Scott,
In Learn To Draft Slopers: Create Your Own 5-Piece Sloper Mellisa Karlin Mahoney
Collection, you’ll learn just that. In this online course, you’ll Illustrator Melinda Bylow,
Nathan Ziebarth
learn how to take accurate measurements through video Photo Stylist Tina Gill
Hair & Makeup Artist Beauty on Location Studio
demonstration, followed by in-depth instruction on how to
draft a skirt, pant, sleeve and bodice sloper as well as a knit
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F+W, a content + ecommerce company
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PRINTED IN THE USA
8 SEWNEWS.COM JUNE/JULY 2016
 Check out the latest Sew with Me
product offerings at shopsewitall.com!
Find exclusive kits, videos and patterns
by your favorite sewing stars.

MELISSA MORA
OF BLANK SLATE PATTERNS
Sew with Melissa in 3 new videos, as she takes you through techniques
needed for the Oceanside Pants, Pocketful of Posies Dress and Favorite
Purse patterns. Purchase the pattern and video bundles at ShopSewItAll.com.

Oceanside Pocketful Favorite

Pants/ of Posies Purse
Shorts Dress

JOI MAHON
OF DRESS FORMS DESIGN
Learn tips and tricks for creating four exclusive
garment patterns—all with a flattering fit for any figure.
Find the videos and patterns at ShopSewItAll.com.

Bias Easy Fab Fit Reversible

Cowl Stretch Gored Fabric
Top Dress Skirt Jacket
FROM YOU

FIND
all the sewing
We asked you on Facebook: tools you need at
shopsewitall.com.
BEST IN SEW What’s your
“It’s the Sixth Finger
Stiletto for sure. You
can get right down
favorite sewing tool?
under the sewing
28% Seam Ripper
machine needle to
hold things in place Serger/
or press down gathers, 17% Embroidery/
Sewing Machine
etc. I couldn’t imagine
sewing without it.” 15% Scissors/Snips
Mary L.

10% Rotary Cutter

Mary won a copy of Sewing for
All Seasons by Susan Beal. For your Friends &
shot at winning a prize, “like” the
7% Imagination
Sew News Facebook page.
7% Appliqué Scissors

5% Other

4% Tweezers

4% Stiletto

3% Iron

YOU SAID SEW

“I love my Jean-a-ma-jig, also known as “My pattern notcher. I didn’t mind
the hump jumper. It makes it so you can clipping out notches on patterns until I
easily sew over very thick seams without found a few patterns with many notches.
getting bogged down. You just set it Fed up, I bought the pattern notcher and
under your pressure foot and keep going. found it to be a time-saving tool and it
JOIN THE It’s amazing!” Tessie F. gives me a neater notch.” Myca W.

CONVERSATION! “Tape measure. I take accurate “My sewing diary. I keep track of my
measurements first thing before any projects, recording in detail what went
Visit our Facebook fan page to project. I have a tape measure in every well and what needs improvement. It’s
take polls and post comments handbag, in my bedroom, one in the a great reference tool.” Andrea N.
for a chance to receive kitchen and, needless to say, several in
a special sewing prize. my sewing room.” Malathie P.

facebook.com/ READER REMARKS

sewnews Check out the latest comments on our Facebook fan page:
“Hand sewing is always so calming for me “Last count I had 30 garments cut out
twitter.com/
and good for the arthritis.” Ann H. with thread, buttons, etc. packed in the
sewnews large plastic bags. My goal is to tackle
“I have always thought that [Christine
those projects.” Ingrid H.
instagram.com/ Hayne’s Anya Skirt pattern] style of
sewnews dress is one of the best looks for a lady “Just ordered [the Keep Calm, Sew On
who has the right figure. To me, it is bag] as a birthday gift for myself!” Cheryl S.
something from the '50s and '60s and
stands the test of time.” Kathy A.

10 S E W N E W S.CO M J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
1. POWER SURGE
READER TIPS
Use an eyebrow razor, available at
drugstores, to rip out serged edges.
Bianca S. Facebook
1 2
2. CUTICLE COOPERATION
Use a wooden cuticle pusher to
help guide finicky fabrics under
the presser foot.
Sandra R., Facebook

3. TUBULAR TURNER
To assist in turning tubes right side
out, use a sturdy paper straw from
a dollar store.
Debbie N., Facebook

4. REUSE, RECYCLE, RECOVER 3 4

Salvage fabric from worn clothes
or home décor items, and use the
fabric to cover buttons.
Carol E., Facebook

5. FEATHER DUSTER
Use a feather quill to clean the lint
and stray threads from your machine
or sewing area. After use, rinse with
water and air dry.
Wanda J., Facebook

Featured readers
5
received a model
500 scissor
sharpener from
Chef’s Choice
by Edgecraft for
submitting a tip.
Send your tips to sewnews@sewnews.com
or post them at facebook.com/sewnews.

Play & Win! Congratulations

HIDE & SEEK

to the Feb/Mar ’16 Hide

What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.
& Seek winners! We randomly
When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a
selected five winners to receive
postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide
a copy of Ask Sew News: 150
& Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401.
Sewing Answers:
Responses are due June 30, 2016. From the correct responses,
Helene P., Salem, NH
we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you.
Vickie J., Turlock, CA
The June/July ’16 winners will receive a copy of Ask Sew
News: 150 Sewing Answers from shopsewitall.com. Lois L., Glenview, IL
Shelby R., Bristol, TN
Nancy P., Winfield Park, NJ
SEWNEWS.COM 11
COOL TOOLS
Stock your sewing room with the latest
notions, tools, fabric, books and more.

1. Add some fun to your summertime

sewing with too-cute softie patterns by
Abby Glassenberg of While She Naps.
Follow the expert instructions on creating
2
three-dimensional shapes designed for
play to make a patchwork elephant, a
sweet fleece dachshund or
a 3D octopus. whileshenaps.com

2. Take your professional sewing career to

the next level with the inaugural Sew Pro
event in Chicago, IL, this September 15
through 18. Pick from a variety of tracks,
such as fabric design, author, blogger or
pattern designer, and learn the ins and
outs of various creative professions from
teachers including Pat Sloan, Tula Pink,
Alison Glass, Kristin Link and more.
sewproconvention.com
3
3. If you’re looking for the latest in
technical innovation, the Spiegel 60609
delivers. With many advanced functions,
including an automatic start/stop and more
than 350 built-in stiches, the machine also
includes a USB charging and Wi-Fi station,
a tablet dock, the free Spiegel Social
Sewing App, a Stitch Cam for close-ups on
the sewing area and syncing technology,
allowing it to connect directly to a smart
phone or tablet. How's that for plugged-in
creativity? spiegel.com

12 SEWNEWS.COM JUNE/JULY 2016

 Visit the Sew News
4
blog at sewnews.com/
blogs/sewing on June
21 for a chance to win
a set of digital patterns
from While She Naps.

4. Amp up the artistry of your summer

creations with the Artsy in Love line
from Montreal-based Telio. With a mix
of spandex, rayon, silk and linen, this
spring/summer collection is perfect for
lightweight garments. Think maxi dresses,
easy-fit pants, cover-ups and more.
telio.com

5. The Rushcutter Dress from In the Folds

is a summer must-make. A lovely mix of
vintage and modern and easily dressed up
or down, this design includes a number of
smart details, such as the curved seamline
across the front. Add a lace yoke and

6 vintage buttons for a throw-back look

perfect for summer gatherings.
inthefolds.com

6. Put your favorite fabric to work in

your sewing space with the Create-a-
Pincushion set from Clover. With just a
scrap of special fabric and a bit of fiberfill,
you can create the perfect pincushion, and
change the look instantly when the mood
strikes you. clover-usa.com

SEWNEWS.COM 13
 of FITTING

S EWISTS LIKE QUICK SOLUTIONS and instant

Pattern results in their work, and fitting is

no different. While fitting is a skill that's
constantly honed, with some simple
pattern tricks and by creating a set of fitting

Transfer
templates, you can eliminate common mis-
takes, simplify the sewing process and have
fun, all while achieving satisfying results.
When altering the body of a pattern,

Techniques
odd-shaped armholes or a gaping neckline
is a common result. Mistaking this as a
major fit issue or thinking the pattern
was incorrectly adjusted, the next step
BY JOI MAHON becomes solving the new fitting issue.
It becomes a cycle of one adjustment
leading to another. Sewists over-fit,
Learn how to create fitting templates to
over-pattern and make the process
eliminate excess adjustments and frustration. unnecessarily confusing and complex.
Avoid overworking your pattern with
these practical pattern-fitting tips.

14 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 Using a fit template allows you
1
to focus on fit within the body of
the pattern, where fitting needs
to be addressed, and quickly
address the outer edges with
shapes that you know work well
for your body, saving time and
frustration along the way.

FIT TEMPLATES
Skewed armholes, necklines or Place the template over the
crotch curves formed by pattern adjusted pattern. Match the tem-
adjustments aren't fitting issues at all. plate upper-shoulder edge to the
The outer pattern edges are simply adjusted pattern shoulder, and then
that: the edges or outline of a shape. trace the original armhole shape (3).
Yes, they need to be sewn together, The adjusted pattern now matches
2
and yes, they should lie correctly on the body but has kept the integrity
the body, but the bulk of the fitting of the original pattern armhole
should be done within the body of shape. Over-fitting is avoided
the pattern. Truing the edges is because this isn't a fit issue but
simply the final step of polishing. rather a necessary outer edge
refinement. The same steps
The best technique for dealing
apply when shortening a bodice
with pattern edges that look askew
pattern piece.
is with the use of fit templates.
Perform the fit template process
Use a fit template to true any
for any pattern edge, including but
pattern area to your custom shape
not limited to the armhole, neck-
and measurements. Make a fit
line, crotch curve, center-front
template using the following steps.
detail and collars. Keep in mind,
when using fit templates, you’ll
ARMHOLE FIT TEMPLATE
still need to create a muslin
Before making any pattern adjust-
fitting sample to fine-tune the
ment, trace any pattern edge or
fit in general.
detail that will change when the
body of a pattern is altered. For 3
example, trace the armhole onto
NECKLINE FIT TEMPLATE
Consider a shirt or jacket that's
a separate piece of paper and set
tight and gaping in the center front
aside (1).
because it isn't wide enough or
Adjust the body of the pattern. has baggy excess fabric between
For example, lengthen the bodice the apex points. It's quite typical
pattern from the shoulder to the apex in pattern fitting to either widen
so the pattern matches the upper or shorten the center front of a
bodice length on the wearer (2). This bodice, jacket or shirt pattern, but
adjustment elongates the armhole. doing this creates a temporary
This isn't an incorrect adjustment change to the neckline. Applying
but simply a temporary change the template method is a useful
to the pattern edge that needs to tool to aid in the final shaping.
be amended.

SEWNEWS.COM 15
 4

To widen a neckline, trace the then match the template to the

pattern neckline before any adjust- adjusted pattern at the shoulder.
ments are made and set it aside. Trace, dropping the opening to
Add width to the bodice front, the original height.
causing the neckline to spread (4).
Place the template just above the CROTCH CURVE FIT
center front of the adjusted pattern TEMPLATE
and trace back the original shape, Trace the original pattern shape,
adding space to accommodate and, then use the template to
close-fitting details, such as a redraw the curve once other
5 collar. Blend in the gap toward adjustments have been made.
the shoulder. Try the same method with a pants
pattern or a pair of ready-to-wear
To counteract an excessive
pants that fit well. Trace the front
increase at the garment center
and back crotch curves and create
front, pin out a wedge at the base
a master copy of each. When
of the neck so the garment lies flat.
sewing a similar style, align the
Blend down into the center-front
template with the waistline and
edge, making a smooth transition.
trace the curve.
The pattern center-front edge is
now the grainline for designs cut The pants pattern shown is length-
on the fold. ened above the hip line, elongating
the original crotch curve (5). It’s
To decrease a neckline at the
important to note that front and
center front, use a fit template
back curves can and should be
to avoid a higher, snug neckline.
treated separately. One crotch curve
Trace the original neckline, and
may be deeper or more angled than
the other. Once adjusted, create a
muslin fitting sample.

ANY PATTERN APPLICATION

Visit Designer Joi's blog for Create a template from any pattern
helpful how-tos, fit information for use and reference when working
and garment fitting solutions at with other similar patterns. If you
perfectfitblog.fashion. have a sleeve or armhole shape that
works particularly well on your body
or one that you’ve invested a good
deal of time in perfecting, make a
template from it using oak tag or
pattern paper and save it as a
For more on Joi’s reference.
approach to fit, grab a
copy of Designer Joi's
Fashion Sewing Workshop
at shopsewitall.com.

16 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 BASIC SKILLS

NEEDLE KNOW-HOW
U SING THE CORRECT sewing machine needle is integral
to successful stitching. Oftentimes problems are
remedied simply by installing a different-sized needle or a
new, unused needle. There are a large variety of needles
available today, but the general rules for usage still hold true.
Use sharp points for woven fabrics, ballpoint needles for
knits and universal points for both wovens and knits. Read
on to learn how to select the correct needle for any project.

SEWNEWS.COM 17
BASIC SKILLS

NEEDLE ANATOMY NEEDLE TYPES

All needles have basically the same Needle options include those
parts, but the shapes and lengths of suitable for specific fabric types
these various parts are what make and those suitable for working
each needle different. Here's a with specialty threads. Here are
lesson on basic needle anatomy. brief descriptions of the basic and
specialty needles available today.
Shank: The shank is the needle
top. Featuring a round front and
flat back, this section is inserted BASIC NEEDLES
into the sewing machine. Ballpoint/Stretch: These needles
have a medium, slightly rounded
Shaft/Blade: The shaft is the tip that fits between the threads of a
needle body below the shank. knit fabric, rather than piercing them.
The shaft thickness determines the They’re available in sizes 70/10
needle size. The groove, eye, scarf through 110/16.
and point are all shaft elements.
Sharp: Also called Microtex and
Front groove: The front groove Standard Point, this needle has a
is the slot above the needle eye sharp point to pierce the threads of
in which the thread rests. woven fabrics. These needles are a
Eye: The eye is the hole at the good choice for heirloom sewing
pointed needle end where the and when perfectly straight stitching
thread is carried to form stitches. is desired, such as when topstitching
The eye size and shape determine or creating pintucks. Sharp-point
the needle type. needles are available in sizes 60/8
through 90/14.
Scarf: The scarf is a groove on the
needle back that intersects with
the bobbin case to create stitches.
NEEDLE SIZE
Point: The point is the needle CONVERSION CHART
tip that pierces the fabric during
stitching. Different needle types European American
have different point shapes.
60 8
NEEDLE SIZING 65 9
Needle sizes are usually marked with
European and American numbers, 70 10
with the European number first.
FRONT SIDE 75 11
VIEW VIEW Needle sizes range from 60/8 (finest)
to 120/19 (thickest). At least one 80 12
numbering system is used to mark
the needle shank. Some brands 90 14
also use a color-coding system in 100 16
addition to the numbering system
so the needle size can be easily 110 18
identified. Use the chart at right as
120 19
a reference when converting from
one system to the other.

18 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
Universal: Most woven and knit embroidery designs with rayon, NEEDLE TIPS
fabrics can be sewn with a universal- metallic and other machine embroi- • Change the machine
point needle. The point is slightly dery threads. They’re available in needle before every proj-
rounded for use with knit fabrics, sizes 75/11 and 90/14. ect or after 8 to 12 hours
yet sharp enough to pierce woven of continuous sewing.
Metallic: Constructed specifically
fabrics. A universal needle can for use with metallic threads, these • Keep a supply of various
be used in all household sewing needles feature a fine shaft and needle types on hand for
machines that accept a flat shank. quick and easy needle
sharp point to eliminate thread
These needles are available in sizes changes.
breakage, an elongated eye to
60/8 through 120/19. accommodate the thread and make • The needle eye should be
threading easier, a large groove to 40% to 50% larger than
SPECIALTY NEEDLES prevent the delicate threads from the thread diameter. For
Denim/Jeans: Choose a denim/ example, a size 80/12
shredding and a specially designed
jeans needle for stitching denim, needle accommodates
scarf to prevent skipped stitches.
heavy faux leather, other densely 40-wt. thread. A size 90/14
These needles also work well with or 100/16 needle accom-
woven fabrics or for stitching monofilament threads. Metallic modates 30-wt. thread.
through multiple layers. The extra- needles are available in sizes 70/10 A higher thread weight
sharp point and stiff shank can through 90/14. requires a smaller needle
pierce through thick fabric with size, while a lower thread
less likelihood of breaking. Denim Microfiber: This needle has a slender
weight requires a larger
needles are available in sizes 70/10 shaft with a sharp point, and is best
needle size.
through 110/18. used for straight stitching on delicate
fabrics and heirloom sewing. These • A bent needle can cause
Double Eye: This needle has two needles also work well on faux irregular stitching. Always
eyes to allow two coordinating or replace the needle if one
leather, brocade, lamé, microfiber
contrasting thread colors to be becomes bent.
and oilcloth. Microfiber needles
stitched simultaneously.The two are available in sizes 60/8 through • Always test-stitch on a
thread spools should unwind in 90/14. fabric scrap to determine
opposite directions to prevent the best needle size and
tangling. Quilting: This needle point is tapered type, thread and fabric
to successfully sew through thick combination for a project.
Jersey Ballpoint: This needle has layers and crossed seams when
a rounded tip that prevents broken piecing a quilt and machine quilting
fabric yarns. Utilize this needle with the layers together. You can find
knits and stretch fabrics, faux fur, Find Schmetz
quilting needles in sizes 75/11 and
bouclé, gauze and tulle. leather & denim/
90/14.
jeans needle packs
Leather: The leather needle point is Self-threading/Handicap: at shopsewitall.com
cut in a wedge so it easily penetrates Use this needle if you have difficulty
leather, heavy faux leather, suede threading needles. A slot on one side
and other heavy, nonwoven fabrics. allows the thread to slide into the
Leather needles are available in sizes eye of this general-purpose needle.
80/12 through 110/18. Self-threading needles are available
Machine Embroidery: This needle in sizes 80/12 and 90/14.
has a specially designed scarf and Spring: Free-motion machine
large eye to prevent shredding and embroidery, quilting and mono-
breakage when sewing dense

SEWNEWS.COM 19
BASIC SKILLS

READING A
NEEDLE PACKET NEEDLE SYSTEM CODE CHART
Learn how to read and understand
the coding on a needle packet in Needle System Code Needle Type
order to select the correct needle
DE Double Eye
for the intended fabric and thread.
DRI Triple (Drilling)
E, ET Embroidery
E ZWI Embroidery Twin
H Household,
General Sewing
J Jeans
J ZWI Jeans Twin
L, LL Leather
M Microtex
MET Metallic
MET ZWI Metallic Twin
Topstitch: Needle type.
N Topstitching
130 N: Needles are organized
Q Quilting, Piecing
into distinct systems depending
on the sewing machine type. S Stretch
Household needles are grouped
in the 130 N system and fit most S ZWI Stretch Twin
home sewing machines.
SUK Jersey Ballpoint
N: The letter is part of the needle WING Wing, Hemstitch
system code and refers to the
needle type. Refer to the Needle ZWI Twin
System Code Chart at right.
ZWI BR Extra Wide Twin
ZWI HO Double Wing

20 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
gramming are all easier with this tightly woven fabrics, such as linen the desired thread through the needle
unique needle. Designed with a and fine batiste. Wing needles are you think is the correct size. Hold the
spring around the needle, the spring available in sizes 100/16 and 120/19. thread vertically and fairly taut with the
acts like a flexible presser foot, needle at the top of the thread. Spin
lowering and raising as the needle SELECTING THE the needle. If it slips down the thread,
enters the fabric. Spring needles are CORRECT NEEDLE it's the correct size for the thread. If
available in universal, sizes 70/10 Thread, fabric and the needle all work not, choose a larger needle.
through 90/14; stretch, sizes 75/11 together in the formation of stitches
After weighing all the factors, stitch
and 90/14; denim, size 100/16; so all must be considered before
some samples on comparable fabric
machine embroidery, sizes 75/11 taking the first stitch. Not only is a
or scraps from the project fabric. Take
and 90/14; and quilting, sizes needle selected based on the fabric
the time to find the right fabric, thread
75/11 and 90/14. type – woven or knit – but fabric
and needle combination for the best
weight is also a factor. The general
Stretch: If you’re sewing knit fabrics results in your stitching ventures.
rule for needle size is the finer the
using a ballpoint needle but experi-
fabric, the finer the needle. For
ence skipped stitches, switch to a
example, when making a dress from
stretch needle. The deeper scarf
a lightweight wool jersey, a 90/14
prevents this problem on knits,
ballpoint needle is appropriate. But
including synthetic suedes. They’re
a heavier, woven wool coating may
available in sizes 75/11 and 90/14.
require a sharp-point needle in a size
Topstitch: Topstitch needles have an 100/16 or 110/18. Just because both
extra-sharp point, an extra-large eye garments are made from a wool
and a larger groove to accommodate fiber doesn’t mean the same needle
topstitching thread or two strands of is suitable.
all-purpose thread. They’re available
Next, factor in the thread chosen
in sizes 80/12 through 100/16.
for the project. The needle descrip-
Twin/Triple: This needle has two tions on the previous pages are a
(or three) needles on one shaft to good place to start. Several needles
produce two (or three) rows of are made for specific threads. How-
stitching, best when used on light- ever, there isn’t a specific needle type
weight cotton fabrics, such as batiste. for every fabric/thread combination,
Use for pintucks, topstitching or so knowing some basic information
free-motion decorative stitching. makes it easier.
Twin or triple needles are available
If the eye of the needle is too small
as universal, stretch, denim/jeans,
for the thread to pass through, the
metallic and embroidery types. The
thread will shred. If the eye is too
distance between the needles ranges
large, the holes created by the needle
from 1.6mm to 6.0mm.
will be visible because the thread isn’t
Wing/Hemstitch: The sides of this heavy enough to fill them. The needle
needle’s shank are flared and look like eye should be twice the size of the
wings. This needle is used to create thread. To test the thread/needle
decorative openwork stitching on compatibility, thread a 12” length of

SEWNEWS.COM 21
PATTERN PLAY

Twisted
Pleats
SKIRT
BY ANA JANKOVIC

Reinvent a basic skirt pattern

with flirty diagonal pleats.

Look for a basic skirt

pattern, such as
McCall’s 3830.

22 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 1

SUPPLIES
• Basic skirt pattern with waist darts
(such as McCall’s 3830)
• Skirt & lining fabric (approximately
1¾ yards of 54”-wide fabric each)
• 8” invisible zipper
• Fusible interfacing
• ¾” button
• All-purpose thread 2
• Pattern or tracing paper
• Rulers: clear & curved

PREPARE
Cut out the pattern pieces (1).
Before beginning alterations, pin-fit
or make a muslin fitting sample of
the selected pattern.
Make any necessary fit adjustments
to the pattern, and then trace a copy
on paper, transferring all markings.

ALTER
3
If using a pencil skirt pattern that
tapers or flares toward the hemline,
straighten the side seams so they’re
perpendicular to the hemline.
Copy the panels onto a new sheet
of paper, transferring the left and
right sides of each.
Join the front and back panels
along the right side seam.
Draw a set of angled, parallel lines
connecting the waistline with the
hemline (2). Using a waist dart to
define the angle of the line, draw the corresponding waist dart or side of the corresponding angled
nine lines: one for each dart, one with the point on the side seam line (3). Make sure the apex of the
for the center-front line, center- where the front and back panels dart remains in its original position.
back line, right side seam and two form a V shape. To draft the lining, copy the skirt
for the left side seam. Except for the
Measure the width of each waist dart. panels onto a new sheet of paper.
lines that correspond to the center
Close the waist darts on both the
front and center back, each line Rotate each dart so its width is
front and back skirt panel by rotating
should intersect with the apex of equally spread to the left and right

SEWNEWS.COM 23
PATTERN PLAY

Front
FRONT

4
the panels. Fill the gaps made by Transfer the skirt exterior front and
the dart rotation at the hemline, and back perimeter onto a new sheet of
then draw a smooth curve along the paper (6).
hemline and waistline (4). Redraw the lining pattern onto new
Cut the front and back skirt panels paper, following the new curves (7).
from the skirt exterior along the
angled lines. Define how wide the CUT
pleat should be when folded; record From the skirt fabric, cut one front
as the folded pleat width. Multiply skirt panel and one back skirt panel.
the width by two to calculate the
Measure the waistline and add 2”;
Back
BACK total pleat width.
record. From the skirt fabric, cut a
Spread the panels, ensuring the waistband that measures 2¾” by
distance between each panel the waistline measurement. Apply
equals the total pleat width. Split the fusible interfacing to the waistband
distance between the left and right wrong side.
panel sets in two by drawing a line
From the lining, cut one front lining
parallel to the panels, denoting the
panel and one back lining panel.
front and back.
Draw a line beyond the outer CONSTRUCT
panel edges, ensuring each line With right sides together, hand
is distanced from the panel by the baste the skirt panels along the pleat
folded pleat width. seams, closing the pleats. Machine
Define and then draw a line parallel stitch along the seamline, from the
to the hemline at the point on the waistline to the hemline, ending at
skirt where the pleats begin (5). the pleat beginning. Press the seams
and the pleat folds.

Front Back
5
Pleat Width

Folded Pleat Width

24 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
On the left side seam, insert an
invisible zipper, following the
manufacturer’s instructions; press.
With right sides together, stitch
the lining side seams. Leave the left
seam open to accommodate the
zipper. Press the seams.
Slip the lining into the skirt with
wrong sides together. Stitch the
layers together along the zipper
slit and waistline.
Stitch the waistband to the skirt
along the waistline.
Attach the button and stitch a
buttonhole at the waistband opening.
Hem the lining and the skirt;
press.

6 Front
FRONT
7
Front

Back
BACK

Back

SEWNEWS.COM 25
 DARTS
or
BUST
BY CHRISTINE HAYNES

Learn a unique technique

for shaping a bodice
with double darts, as
demonstrated on the
Josie Sundress pattern.

Complete
your summer
wardrobe with the
Josie Sundress Pattern
by Christine Haynes.
Find it at
shopsewitall.com.

26 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
DUAL DARTS
Double darts on the bodice center
front create a dynamic design feature
while providing an alternative fitting
solution to more traditional side bust
darts. Inspired by vintage garment
1
designs, center bust darts are a great
choice for a dress bodice featuring a Fold the bodice in half and pin along
skirt with center pleats (as in the Josie the center seam. Mark the 5/8” seam
Sundress) or other center-front allowance from the lower edge to
design elements. Also a good choice where it runs off the fabric; stitch.
for a square neckline, the technique Cut open the seam; press (2).
is similar to creating four small darts
from the center out, but because of Fold the upper dart on the center-
the overlap placement, they need to line, and then pin through the upper
be sewn, pressed and trimmed in a and lower lines.
specific order. Stitch from one side of the dart to
the other.
CONSTRUCT
Trim the dart point and press down 2
Draw the darts on the bodice front and
(3). Repeat to stitch the darts on the
lining on the fabric wrong side.
bodice lining.
Stitch the lower-bodice front darts.
Continue constructing the dress
Press down (1).
following the pattern instructions.

DARTS AT PLAY
When picking a pattern for center-front darts like those featured,
square necklines and Empire waist patterns work best. Try the
technique on any of the following silhouettes.

Trim

Boho Blouse Simple Bikini Hi-lo Tunic Thick-banded

Top Empire Waist

SEWNEWS.COM 27
CASE OF THE
FunDays
BY KIM SABA

Travel in style with a sturdy

canvas carryall inspired
by a classic doctor’s bag.
An internal bag frame and
leather base create a chic,
professional look.

28 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
SUPPLIES CUT
• 1 yard each of 10-ounce canvas Download the Case of the Fun Days inner-frame panel, outer-frame panel,
fabric & woven cotton print bag pattern from sewnews.com/ front lining and back lining raw edges.
web_extras until July 31, 2016.
• ¼ yard of at least 50”-wide Using a circular punch tool, punch
Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.
faux leather holes into the upper-front panel,
com after the expiration date. Print,
• ¾ yard of heavyweight fusible upper-back panel, lower-front
and then cut out the pattern pieces.
interfacing (See “Sources.”) panel, lower-back panel, handle,
From the canvas, cut one base strap tabs and each lower strap at
• 1 yard of at least 25”-wide panel on the fold, one upper- the pattern markings.
mediumweight fusible interfacing front panel, one upper-back panel,
Using small, sharp scissors, cut slits
• 9”x14” rectangle of 2-ounce leather one outer-frame panel and one
on the bag front and strap tabs at
inner-frame panel.
• 20¾” length of the pattern markings for the mag-
5/8”-diameter cording From the faux leather, cut one netic closure.
lower-front panel and one lower-
• 1½ yards of 1”-wide
back panel. CONSTRUCT
cotton webbing
From the cotton print, cut one front Use ½” seam allowances unless
• 45cm internal bag frame otherwise noted.
lining, one back lining and one pocket.
(See “Sources.”)
From the heavyweight interfacing, Install a size 90/14 universal needle
• Needles: size 90/14 universal into the machine and thread it with
cut one upper-front panel, one
& size 110/18 leather all-purpose thread.
lower-front panel, one upper-back
• Thread: all-purpose panel, one lower-back panel, one Fold both inner-frame panel short
& polyester upholstery outer-frame panel and one inner- ends ½” toward the wrong side; press.
• 7”x16¼” rectangle of frame panel. Edgestitch close to the raw edge but
plastic canvas From the mediumweight interfac- not between the two notches. Repeat
ing, cut one front lining, one back to stitch the opposite short end.
• Two 1” swivel clasps
lining and one pocket. Position the inner-frame panel
• Two ¾” buckles
From the leather, cut two handles, wrong side up on a flat work surface.
• Two 5/8”-diameter magnetic snaps four straps and two strap tabs. Position the inner bag frame over the
• 5/16” jean rivets & attachment tool Designate two straps as the upper panel, and insert the ends into the
straps and the remaining two short ends. Fold one panel long edge
• 4 purse feet over the frame, matching the opposite
as the lower straps. Transfer all
• 1” slide buckle pattern markings. long edge and encasing the frame;
pin. Hand baste as close to the frame
• Two 3/8”-wide D-ring hangers
PREPARE as possible.
(See “Sources.”)
Fuse the corresponding interfacing Beginning at one short end and
• ¼”-wide double-sided leather
pieces to the pattern pieces, following positioning the frame vertically in front
or sewing tape
the manufacturer’s instructions. of you, stitch 1/8” from the frame,
• 1/8”-diameter circular leather Transfer all pattern markings. ending the stitching at the opposite
punch tool short end. While stitching, begin with
Serge or zigzag finish the upper-
• Leather glue front panel, lower-front panel, the frame vertical, rotate the frame flat
upper-back panel, lower-back panel, and then place the frame vertical
• Small paintbrush
again behind the machine. Remove
• Small, sharp scissors the basting stitches.

SEWNEWS.COM 29
 1

Repeat to stitch the outer-frame With right sides together, align the
panel to the outer bag frame. bag front and lining front at the upper
edges. Hand baste ¼” from the bag
With right sides together, align the
frame edge, and then stitch as close
upper-front panel lower edge with the
as possible to the bag frame (2). Press
lower-front panel upper edge; pin and
the lining away from the bag frame.
then stitch. Press the seam allowance
Remove the basting stitches.
toward the lower-front panel. Top-
stitch 1/8” and ¼” from the seamline Repeat to stitch the bag back and
on the lower-front panel. Designate lining back.
as the bag front. Fold the bag front and front lining
Repeat to stitch the upper-back so wrong sides are together, extend-
panel and lower-back panel. Desig- ing the bag frame beyond the upper
2 nate as the bag back. edges; press.
Position the bag front right side up Place the inner frame into the outer
on a flat work surface. Position the frame and align the bag front and bag
inner bag frame over the bag front, back with right sides together; pin.
aligning the inner-frame seam Align the front and back lining with
allowance with the bag-front upper right sides together; pin.
edge and matching the centerlines; Stitch, beginning at one bag side and
pin. Hand baste as close to the frame ending at the lining side and making
as possible (1). Stitch 1/8” from the sure to stitch as close to the frame
bag frame, maneuvering the frame edges as possible (3). Press open the
as before during stitching. Remove seam allowance. Repeat to stitch
the basting stitches. the opposite bag and lining edge.
Repeat to stitch the outer bag frame Stitch the bag lower edge. Press
to the bag back. open the seam allowance. Stitch the
3 Fold the pocket in half widthwise lining lower edge, leaving a 13”-long
with right sides together; press. centered opening for turning.
Stitch the perimeter, leaving a 3”-long To box the corners, flatten one bag
centered opening along the long edge corner with right sides together and
for turning. Trim the seam allowances raw edges aligned; pin, and then
and corners. Turn the pocket right stitch. Repeat to box the remaining
side out through the opening; press. bag corner and lining corners.
Designate the folded edge as the
pocket upper edge. Turn the bag right side out through
the lining opening. Place the bag front
Position the back lining right side up right side up on a flat work surface
on a flat work surface. Position the with the upper edge facing away (4).
pocket over the back lining, aligning Carefully and slowly flip the inner
the pocket with the pattern markings; frame under and toward you, and
pin. Stitch the sides and lower edges then turn the frame toward the upper
to secure. edge. Repeat to turn the outer frame.

30 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 4

Fold the base panel in half length- paintbrush. Position the upper straps
wise with right sides together; press. over the lower straps with wrong sides
Press each long edge ½” toward the together and edges aligned; press.
wrong side, and then stitch. Insert Remove any glue from the sides using
the plastic canvas into the base panel a damp cloth. Position the straps 6
opening. Edgestitch the base-panel under a stack of heavy books to dry.
open edge. Using a circular punch Insert one strap tab through one
tool, punch holes through the base buckle and align the short ends. Install
panel at each pattern marking (5). a male magnetic closure at the tab
Insert the base panel into the bag slits along the strap tab wrong side,
bottom through the lining opening. following the manufacturer’s instruc-
Install purse feet at each hole tions (6). Repeat to install the tab and
through the bag bottom and the closure on the remaining buckle.
base, following the manufacturer’s Cut the cording in half widthwise.
instructions. Position one handle wrong side up on
Apply leather glue onto each a flat work surface. Apply double-sided
lower-strap wrong side using a small tape to one long edge. Center one

SEWNEWS.COM 31
 LEATHER LOVE
Discover must-know tips and
tricks to make working with
leather a breeze.
• Look for leather remnant
bags at local leather and craft
stores. Always check the size
to make sure the pattern
pieces fit. Remember that
cording over the handle wrong side, hole from the outer edge. Repeat to leather doesn’t have a grain,
aligning the short ends with the pattern install the remaining hanger on the so move pattern pieces on
markings. Fold the leather over the opposite frame side. remnant scraps in multiple
cording, aligning the long edge; directions to yield the most
Install the frame hinge rivets follow- leather per piece.
finger-press to secure. ing the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Use a marking tool, such as
Install a size 110/18 leather needle Insert the strap through the slider a Clover Hera marking tool,
and zipper foot onto the machine. center bar and fold the strap short to easily transfer pattern
Thread with upholstery thread and end 1½” from the bar; pin. Stitch the markings to leather.
select a 3.5mm stitch length. Stitch the strap short end through both layers • Install a PTFE presser foot
handle long edge as close to the to secure. or place painter’s tape on
cording as possible. Carefully trim the the presser foot underside
leather just beyond the stitching line. Insert the opposite strap short end
to keep the leather from
Repeat to create the remaining handle. through one swivel-clasp ring. Insert the
sticking during stitching.
strap short end through the slider, and
Install female magnetic closures on then insert the short end through the • Always test the thread, needle
bag front at the pattern markings. remaining swivel-clasp ring. Fold the and machine tension on
scraps to find the best results.
Position one handle over the bag strap short end 1½” from the swivel-
front at the corresponding holes. clasp ring; pin. Topstitch the strap short
Install a rivet into each handle hole end through both layers to secure.
and through the bag front only, Attach the swivel clasps to the
following the manufacturer’s instruc- D-rings.
tions. Repeat to attach the remaining
handle to the bag back and each strap SOURCES
end to the bag back. The Home Depot carries D-ring hangers: homedepot.com.

LeatherCraft by Ava Lau carries 45cm internal bag frames:

Insert one strap lower end into the leathercraftbyavalau.etsy.com.
buckle and secure at the second hole.
Pellon carries 809 Décor-Bond heavyweight fusible
Repeat to secure the remaining strap interfacing: pellonprojects.com.
and buckle. Shop Sew it All carries leather needles: shopsewitall.com.
Using a rivet, install a D-ring hanger on
the outer frame at the second frame

32 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 ORDER Disney’s
NOW
Finding Dory
Quilt Kit! ©Disney/Pixar

HIDE & SEEK

DORY
QUILT KIT
Item#
CMEK16081
$59.99

1959-B Leghorn St.

Mountain View CA 94043

Tel: (650) 965-7455

Fax (650) 965-0712

This interactive quilt features movable bubbles that hide

the different fish featured on the fabric print. Kids will be
entertained as they flip each bubble to find Dory!
In addition to the licensed fabric, the kit comes complete
with our full Hide & Seek Dory embroidery design collection
and in-the-hoop bubbles—more than 10 designs included!
shopsewitall.com

All Styles Now Available Online From www.birchstreet-folkwear.com

Sewable Swedish
Tracing Paper

Don’t cut your patterns! 10 yard rolls – 29” wide

Trace your pattern with this durable, strong, see-through
and drapably soft pattern paper.
Call for price, free sample and pattern catalog
Birch Street Clothing
P.O. Box 280137, San Francisco, CA 94128
650-515-6190
www.birchstreetclothing.com
DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED
 Fringe
FOREVER
BY KIM SABA

Draft your own pattern to make

a fun faux-suede fringe vest.

34 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
SUPPLIES
• Faux suede leather (amount
determined by measurements;
see “Fabric Selection”on page 36)
• All-purpose thread
• Size 14/90 universal needle
• Rotary cutting system
• Tailor’s chalk
• Rulers: French curve,
hip curve & straight
• Pattern or butcher paper
• Painter’s tape Shorten or
lengthen the
• Plastic clips (in lieu of pins;
see “Source”)
fringe length
as desired.
DRAFT
Measure your bust circumference at
the fullest point. Add 2” for ease, and
then divide by four; record as the
lower-edge measurement. Subtract
1½” from the measurement; record
as the bustline measurement (1).
Place a piece of pattern or butcher
paper on a flat work surface. Draw a
vertical line 1” from the right paper
edge; label as the center front. Near
the paper upper edge, draw a 10”
horizontal line extending from the
center-front line. Label the line
“upper edge.”
Measure 2” from the center-front
Measure 16½” down from the upper Shoulder
line along the upper edge line; mark, Upper Edge
edge/center-front intersection and 1 B A
and then label point “A.” Measure
draw a straight line extending from
2¼” from point A; mark, and then
the center-front line according C
label point “B.” Measure 1” below
to the lower edge measurement. Armhole
point B; mark, and then label point
Label the line “lower edge.”
Center Front

“C.” Draw a straight line connecting EF

points A and C; label the line Measure 2¼” above the lower-edge
line end point; mark, and then label Bustline G
“shoulder.”
the point “D.” Measure 1½” above the
Measure 9¾” down from the upper
bustline line end point; mark, and
edge/center-front intersection and D
then label the point “E.” Draw a
draw a straight line extending from
horizontal line ½” to the right of
the center-front line according Lower Edge
point E; label the point “F.”
to the bustline measurement.

SEWNEWS.COM 35
 Measure 4½” from the center-back On the front and back patterns, add
line along the upper edge line; mark, a 3/₈” seam allowance to the center
and then label point “A.” Measure front, shoulder, armhole, side seam
FABRIC 2¼” from point A; mark, and then and lower edge.
SELECTION label point “B.” Measure 1” below
Cut out the pattern pieces.
Learn how to choose the right point B; mark, and then label the
fabric to create a fringe vest. point “C.” Draw a straight line
CUT
connecting points A and C; label the
From the faux suede, cut two vest
• Select a faux suede or leather line “shoulder.”
that doesn’t fray. fronts, one vest back on the fold,
Measure 1¾” down from the upper one rectangle measuring 18”x the
• Select natural-looking faux edge/center-front intersection; fringe width and two strips measur-
suede with a slight drape. mark, and then label the point “D.” ing 7/₈”x the armhole facing length
Draw a curved line connecting measurement.
• Look for faux suede and
points A and D.
leather in fabric stores
Measure 16” down from point D CONSTRUCT
and online. If buying online,
request or purchase swatches and draw a straight line extending Use 3/ ₈” seam allowances unless
of the desired fabric to ensure from the center-back line according otherwise noted.
the fabric won’t fray. to the lower-edge measurement. Position the fringe rectangle
Measure 11¼” down from point D wrong side up on a flat work surface.
and draw a straight line extending Designate one long edge as the
from the center-front line according upper edge. Using tailor’s chalk, mark
Draw a diagonal line connecting to the bustline measurement; label 3/₈” and 5/₈” from the upper edge.
points D and E; label the line as “bustline.”
Mark the widthwise center on the
“side seam.” Measure 1” to the left of the upper and lower edges. Using a clear
lower-edge line end point; mark, rotary ruler and cutter, cut along the
Using a French curve, draw a curved
and then label point “E.” centerline beginning at the lower
line connecting points C and F; label
the line “armhole.” Draw a straight line connecting the edge and ending at the second
bustline line end point and point E; chalk line.
Measure ¼” from the center-front
label the line “side seam.”
line along the bustline; mark, and
then label point “G.” Using a hip Measure 1½” above the bustline
curve, draw a slightly curved line end point; mark, and then label the
connecting points A and G, gradually point “F.” Draw a horizontal line ½” 2
merging the line into the center- to the right of point F; label the Shoulder
A B
front line. point “G.”
D C
Draw a curved line connecting the Using a French curve, draw a curved
hole

lower edge/center-front intersection line connecting point C and G; label

Arm

and point D. the line “armhole.”

Center Back

On a new piece of paper, draw a Measure the front and back lower G F
vertical line 1” from the left edge. edges. Add together, and then add Bustline
Label the line "center back" (2). ¾”; record as the fringe-width
Side Seam

measurement.
Near the paper upper edge, draw a
10” horizontal line extending from Measure the front and back arm-
the center-back line. Label the line holes. Add together, and then add E
“upper edge.” ¾”; record as the armhole facing Lower Edge
length measurement.

36 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 Always press a faux
suede or leather scrap
to determine the correct
iron temperature setting.

Fold the fringe rectangle in half

widthwise with right sides together.
Measure ¼” from the short raw
edges. Cut from the lower edge to
the second chalk line. Repeat to cut
¼”-wide fringe across the folded
rectangle, ending at the center-line
cut (3). Note: If the ¼”-wide fringe
isn’t even at the centerline, add or
subtract up to 1/₈” from the individual
fringe width 1" before the centerline.
With right sides together, stitch
the vest front and back along one
shoulder seam. Press the seam
allowance toward the back. Topstitch
¼” from the shoulder seamline along
the vest back. Repeat to stitch the
remaining shoulder seam.
Position the vest wrong side up on a
flat work surface. Using tailor’s chalk,
mark a 3/₈” seam allowance on each the vest back. Repeat to stitch the Press the vest edge along the stitching
armhole. Clip into the armhole seam opposite side seam. line toward the vest wrong side;
allowance up to, but not through, the With right sides together, stitch the secure with painter’s tape just along
line at ¼” intervals on each curved fringe-rectangle upper edge to the the raw edge. Topstitch ¼” from the
armhole section (4). vest lower edge. Press the seam folded edge. Remove the tape.
Align one facing strip and one allowance toward the vest. Topstitch SOURCE
armhole with right sides together, ¼” from the seamline on the vest. Shop Sew it All carries 10- or 50-count plastic Wonder
using small clips or pinning only clips: shopsewitall.com.
Stitch a scant 3/₈” from the vest and
within the seam allowance to secure.
fringe center-front and neckline edge.
Stitch, lifting the presser foot with the
needle in the down position to pivot
the vest as needed.
3 4
Clip into the facing seam allowance,
up to, but not through, the stitching ”
3/8

line on the curved armhole section. ”

1/4

Press the facing toward the vest

wrong side. Topstitch ¼” from the
armhole edge, catching the facing in
the stitching to secure. Repeat to
attach the remaining facing to the 1/4 ”
opposite armhole.
3/8 ”
With right sides together, stitch one
vest side seam. Finger-press the seam
allowance toward the vest back.
Topstitch ¼” from the seamline on 1/4 ”

SEWNEWS.COM 37
 Peachy
KEEN
BY MELISSA MORA

A knit T-shirt gets

a simple and sweet
addition with an easy
faux collar in a classic
Peter Pan shape.

DOWNLOAD
the Peachy Keen
pattern for free from
sewnews.com/web_
extras until July 31, 2016.
Purchase the pattern at
shopsewitall.com after
the expiration date.

38 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 Use double knit or
baby rib knit fabric
for the collar to ensure
it will lie flat.

SUPPLIES
• 1¼ yard of double knit together; stitch (1). Press the seams
or jersey knit print fabric toward the sleeves.
• ¼ yard of double knit Fold the shirt right sides together,
or baby rib knit solid fabric matching the sleeve seams. Stitch 2
the underarm and side seams (2).
• Coordinating all-purpose thread
Place the collar front and back right
• Ballpoint needle
sides together and stitch along the
• Serger (optional) straight edges (3). Press the seams
toward the collar front.
PREPARE
Place the collar on the shirt neck-
Download the Peachy Keen pattern
line with the collar right side against
for free from sewnews.com/web_ex-
the shirt wrong side and with the
tras until July 31, 2016. Purchase the
shoulder seams aligned. Wrap the
pattern at shopsewitall.com after the
collar center band around the collar
expiration date. Print and then cut out
center front to create the Peter Pan
the pattern pieces.
shape. Pin, and then stitch around
the neckline (4).
CUT
From the main fabric, cut one shirt Trim the seam allowance to ¼”.
front on the fold, one shirt back on Flip the collar to the shirt right side, 3
the fold and two sleeves on the fold. and then press the neckline.
From the collar fabric, cut one collar Fold the lower edge and sleeve
front on the fold, one collar back on edges ½" toward the wrong side,
the fold and one collar center band. and then stitch each hem.
Note: The collar edges will remain
unfinished, so be sure to make
clean cuts. 1
CONSTRUCT
Use ½” seam allowances unless
otherwise noted.
Place the shirt front and back right 4
sides together. Stitch the shoulder
seams using a narrow zigzag or
stretch stitch. Or choose a three- or
four-thread serger stitch. Press the
seams toward the back.
Lay the shirt flat with right sides up
on a work surace. Pin the sleeves
into the armhole with right sides

SEWNEWS.COM 39
Lacy
DAZE
BY KIM SABA

Draft and stitch an

Edwardian-inspired
lace cover-up for a
distinctive beach style
or the perfect warm-
weather accent over a
simple tank and jeans.

40 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
SUPPLIES
• Lace fabric with decorative
selvage & single-fold bias
binding (amount determined
by measurements)
• All-purpose thread
• Needles: 11/75 universal
& hand sewing
• Rotary cutting system Measure 2” down from the upper edge/center-back intersection and
• Removable fabric marker edge/center-front intersection and draw a straight line extending from
draw a ½”-long straight line extend- the center-back line according to
• Rulers: French curve & straight ing from the center front. Using a the waistline measurement plus 1½”.
• Pattern or butcher paper French curve, draw a slightly curved Measure the desired length mea-
line from this line to the upper-edge surement down from the waistline/
DRAFT line end point; label the line “neck- center-back intersection and draw a
Measure your bust circumference line.” Repeat to draw a curved line straight line extending from the
at the fullest point; divide by four, from the upper-edge line end point center-back line according to the
and then record for the waistline to the waistline end point; label the lower-edge measurement plus 1½”.
measurement. line “armhole.”
Draw a diagonal line connecting the
Measure your hips at the widest Using a straight ruler, draw a upper-edge point and the waistline
point. Add 1½” ease, and then divide diagonal line connecting the waistline end point; label the line “armhole.”
by four. Record for the lower-edge and lower-edge line end points; label Draw a diagonal line connecting the
measurement. the line “side seam” (1). waistline and lower-edge line end
Measure from your natural waist- On a new piece of paper, draw a points; label the line “side seam” (2).
line to the desired length; record as vertical line 1” from the left edge. On the front and back patterns, add
the length. Label the line as the center back. a ½” seam allowance to the side
Near the paper upper edge, mark a seam and a ¼” seam allowance to
Place a piece of pattern or butcher
point; label as the "upper edge." the armhole and neckline.
paper on a flat work surface. Draw a
Measure 10” down from the upper
vertical line 1” from the right paper Cut out the pattern pieces.
edge; label as the center front. Near
the paper upper edge, draw a 3¾”
1 2
horizontal line extending from the
center-front line; label the line “upper
edge.” Measure 10” down from the
Ar
upper edge/center-front intersection, 1/2 ” mh
Neck ole
line
e

and draw a straight line extending

hol
Arm

from the center-front line according

Center Back
Center Front

to the waistline measurement. Waistline

Side Sea

Measure the desired length down

from the waistline/center-front
m

intersection, and draw a straight line

Side Sea

extending from the center-front line

according to the lower edge mea-
surement. Note: The featured
cover-up has a 20” length. Lower Edge

SEWNEWS.COM 41
 CUT
Fold the lace fabric with right sides corner over the strap. Repeat to
together, aligning the selvages. place the opposite strap short end
From the lace fabric, cut one wrong side down on the remaining
cover-up front and back on the neckline point.
fold, aligning the lower edge with Edgestitch the binding on the
the decorative selvage. Using a cover-up right side just beyond the
removable fabric marker, mark the seamline. Repeat to stitch the binding
waistline/side seam intersection to the back cover-up.
on the front and back.
On the cover-up front, fold one
strap right side over the neckline
CONSTRUCT point wrong side; hand stitch to
Unfold one binding long edge; press.
secure. Repeat to stitch the remain-
Position the binding short end with
ing strap to the neckline point.
the front waistline/side seam mark
right sides together and aligning the To create a sturdy and inconspicuous
raw edges; pin. Begin stitching seam, stitch the cover-up front and
at the binding short end, using a ¼” back with right sides together at one
3 seam allowance. At the first neckline side seam. Stitch again 1/8” beyond the
point, end the stitching ¼” before the first stitching line in the seam allow-
edge; backstitch to secure. ance. Trim close to, but not through,
the second stitching line. Press the
Remove the cover-up from the
seam toward the back. Repeat to
machine. Fold the binding up
stitch the remaining side seam.
and back down over itself to form
a mitered corner (3). Continue Pin-mark the strap in half widthwise.
stitching from the point around At the pin-mark, fold the strap with
the scoop neckline. Repeat to miter wrong sides together to create a
the remaining neckline point. small fold. Position the fold on the
back upper point along the wrong
4 Repeat the previous step to bind
side; hand stitch to secure (5).
the back neckline, mitering the
single point.
Press the binding toward the wrong
side. Fold the binding in half length- LOVELY IN LACE
wise, enclosing the front cover-up Follow a few simple tips for
raw edge; press and miter the two selecting the correct lace fabric.
neckline points.
• Select a durable lace that can
To create the straps, cut a 29”-long withstand pool and seawater,
piece of binding. Fold the binding in such as lace drapery panels
half lengthwise; press. Edgestitch the found at thrift stores.
5
open long edge. Designate one side • If purchasing lace yardage,
as the strap right side. Cut each strap select lace that has a sturdy
short end into a point. embroidery pattern. Venice
lace is a heavy damask lace
Position the front cover-up wrong
with large floral embroidery
side up on a flat work surface. Place
that’s perfect for a swim
one short strap end wrong side down cover-up.
between the binding and the front
• Think outside the box and
neckline point; pin (4). Hand baste
choose a crochet lace for
to secure, and then miter the binding
an effortless Boho look.

42 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
RESORT
Ready
BY LINDA REYNOLDS

Make this dress in an

afternoon—no pattern
needed! Use four basic
body measurements to
draft a single pattern piece.
For more shaping, cinch
the waistline with a simple
elastic casing or add a belt.

SEWNEWS.COM 43
 1 SUPPLIES from shoulder to hem plus 3” to 4”.
• Approximately 3 to 4 yards of Draw a centerline and mark the
lightweight fabric (such as jersey center point. Next, draw a line
knit, cotton lawn, voile, silk or approximately 2” from the paper
polyester; amount determined upper edge that's perpendicular to
by measurements) the centerline (2). From the intersec-
tion, measure and mark a dot at the
• Fusible lightweight to feather-
shoulder to bustline measurement;
weight interfacing (for the
label as the bustline point .
bodice facings)
Draw a crosswise line at the bustline
• ¾”-wide elastic (amount
point that's a quarter of the bustline
determined by measurements)
measurement plus 2” for ease, with
• 2 buttons, hooks and eyes, equal measurement on each side of
or decorative rings the centerline (3).
• Pattern drafting paper, pencil From the bustline, measure and
& ruler mark a dot at the waistline measure-
ment plus 1” for ease.
Craft paper at least 18” wide.

Line appoximately 2” from upper edge.

2 • Measuring tape
• Ribbon or string From that point, measure and
mark a dot at the hemline mea-
• Matching thread
surement (4).
Center Point & Grainline

DRAFT Assume a skirt circumference of

Measure your body in four places: 72–82”, then divide that number by
the bustline; from the shoulder four. Using that number, draw a
midpoint to the bustline; from the crosswise line at the hemline point
bustline to the desired hem length; to represent the lower width of the
from the bustline to the waist, pattern piece. Add a hem allowance
measuring down the center front (1). of 2” and draw another crosswise
line (5). Connect the end point of
Cut a piece of drafting paper that
each crosswise line to form the
measures at least 18” by the distance
shape of the final pattern piece (6).

3 4 5 6
Center Point & Grainline

Center Point & Grainline

Center Point & Grainline

Center Point & Grainline

44 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
Add ½” seam allowances to the To create the elastic casing, pin the back into the casing; stitch the
pattern outer edge. pressed facing lower edge toward the lower-edge opening closed.
dress wrong side. Stitch close to the Connect the shoulder points using
Draw a crosswise line approximately
lower edge, leaving a 2” opening to buttons, hooks and eyes, or decora-
1½” below the waistline dot to form the
insert the elastic. Stitch another seam tive rings. Hem the dress as desired.
facing pattern lower edge (7). Create
1” above the stitched lower edge
a facing pattern from the base pattern.
around the entire dress.
CUT Wrap the elastic around your waist 8
From the fabric, cut four dress panels until if feels comfortable; add 2” to
and four bodice facings. Measure that length, and then cut. Insert the
from the shoulder to the waistline, add elastic through the casing, making
1” and mark the elastic casing place- sure it doesn't twist. Overlap the ends
ment line on the fabric wrong side. 1"; stitch together. Insert the elastic
From the interfacing, cut four
bodice facings, and then fuse them
to the corresponding fabric pieces.
7
CONSTRUCT
With right sides together, stitch the
bodice facings together along the
Bust
edges, from the bustline to the
waistline; press open the seams (8). Facing
Center Point & Grainline

Fold and press the lower edge ½” 9

toward the wrong side to form the
elastic-casing lower edge.
With right sides together, stitch the
dress panels from the bustline to the
hem. Finish the seams as desired.
With right sides together, pin the
bodice facing to the dress; stitch (9). Hemline
Turn the dress right side out; press
each point in place.

SEWNEWS.COM 45
 FIT FINDER:
Blouses
& Tops
BY RAE CUMBIE

From its early incarnation as a peasant garment to the fitted,

tailored tops of modern fashion, the blouse has been an
essential wardrobe element for centuries. Read on to learn
about the many blouse shapes and styles and to determine
which ones work for you.

With a wide variety of blouse shapes, • A darted silhouette gives space for
styles and patterns to choose from, the body while folding out fabric
which blouses and tops are right for to shape the contours. The more
your body? A quick inventory of your darts, the more fitted the silhou-
own wardrobe probably includes ette. Incorporate gathered or
fitted and loose blouses and tops in pleated shaping instead of darts
a variety of styles. Consider which for a softer effect.
ones you wear most often. As you
• Princess seams create a very
begin to identify your wardrobe
controlled fit, curving over the bust
staples, knowing your preferences
and the back for a close-fitting
will streamline the process of finding
silhouette. The most common
and developing sewing patterns that
princess seams originate in the
fit your body and lifestyle.
armhole or the shoulder and
follow your fullness and contours,
BASIC BLOUSE SHAPES thus shaping the blouse from the
Because tops and blouses need to chest to the hem.
fit smoothly around the shoulders,
back and bust, good fit is essential in • Knit tops have a very simple
woven fabrics. Here is a selection of silhouette. Occasionally a dart is
basic blouse silhouettes categorized used to accommodate a full bust,
by the way shaping is integrated into but otherwise the fit depends on
the garment. the fabric stretch.

• Loose-fitting or oversized blouses Any of these basic shapes can be

styled with classic blouse openings
Minii Ho / Shutterstock.com

are large enough to fall over the

body with little or no shaping. in either the front or back and with
They’re easy to construct with complementary necklines, collars
simple shoulder and side seams. and sleeves. Two classic styles, the
The trade-off for this simplicity long-sleeve shirt and the short-sleeve
is excess fabric where the body shell, are shown in each of the basic
naturally contours. shapes (1 & 2).

46 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 When choosing ideal blouse and
1
top silhouettes, there aren't any set
rules with regard to body shape and
top style. It's true that the more fitted
the silhouette, the more snug it will
fit your body contours. Conversely,
the looser the silhouette, the less
your actual shape is seen. The ideal
shape and fit will fall within these
two extremes.
A closer-fitting silhouette doesn't 2
necessarily mean it will be more
challenging to fit or too revealing.
Investing time in the design and
careful shaping will yield flattering
results, skimming over curves with
minimal stretch or drag lines.

NECKLINE TREATMENTS
Necklines for blouses and tops
are mostly a matter of preference.
When choosing designs for basic
tops, consider simple necklines 3
that complement your face shape.
Classic scoop necklines and basic
shirt collars are easy places to begin
developing more versatile basics.
Once you’ve developed a well-fitting
neckline that's comfortable, change
the shape to vary the looks in your
Jewel Neckline Keyhole Back Square Neck Funnel Neck
expanding wardrobe. Keep in mind with Button-up with Scoop with Side with Back Zipper
that more fitted silhouettes can Back Neck Buttons
accommodate lower necklines (3).
Necklines and openings go hand
in hand. If the style you like doesn't
slide easily over your head or button SLEEVE OPTIONS
up the front, consider other opening side, or buttons on one side or along Consider the many sleeve options
options. Buttons or a keyhole the shoulder. The more fitted the when planning basic top designs.
opening at the back both allow for blouse, the more important it is to Most silhouettes can support the
easy entry. Other options include have a successful closure that you set-in or dropped shoulder sleeves
zippers placed in the back, front or can open and close yourself. that are most prevalent in fashion

SEWNEWS.COM 47
 today. Other armhole options include upper sleeve. For slim arms, choose preferences, but the answer will
raglan, dolman and square, the latter a style that offers some volume for inform choices with regards to the
two offering more ease than accom- camouflage. length and fit. Classic top lengths are
modated in a very close fit. The From a design standpoint, sleeves a great reference point (5). Gener-
closer the sleeve and armhole sit must be shaped at the head with a ally, keep hemlines above or below
against the body, the more fitted the minimal amount of ease to fit it into your fullest hipline, and offset the
top appears. A closely fit sleeve needs the shoulder. Use seams, pleats or sleeve length from the hem length
to have enough width and length to gathers to add additional fullness. so the eye doesn't see a single wide
hang gracefully and skim comfortably The shape can be straight, full or a line at the garment hemline.
over the arm, allowing for optimal combination, with or without a cuff Choose lengths that complement
movement. Take note of the stress detail. Classic sleeve lengths fall at the types of bottoms you wear most
lines in the sleeve and armhole area the natural breaks in the arm (4). often. For full skirts and loose pants,
in a blouse that doesn't fit well. choose cropped or high-hip-length
To find the best sleeve style, think BLOUSE LENGTH tops. For skirts and pants that have
about your arm shape and how your The final design option to consider a slim silhouette, longer lengths are
arms fit into sleeves. For arms that when finding your ideal blouse more complementary. Watch the
are full between the elbow and shape is the length. Will the hem proportion, though, and keep the
shoulder, choose a sleeve style that hang over skirts and pants or be top balanced in relation to your
offers ease by adding fullness in the tucked in? These are personal style overall size. For instance, a tall

Set-in Cap Drop-Shoulder Set-in Puff ¾ Raglan Dolman Sleeve Elbow Sleeve Set-in Sleeve
Sleeve Kimono Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve Gathered at Cuff with Square with Elastic
Armhole Band at Wrist

5 6

Midrift
Cropped
High Hip
Low Hip
Long

Darted Shell Mockup with Back Opening

48 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
woman can wear a very long top
and still have enough leg showing BASIC BLOUSE PATTERNS
to look balanced, while a shorter
woman’s long top may not be Build a blouse and top pattern collection
flattering if only a little leg shows. with these basic designs. Find these patterns at mccall.com,
The length of a top or blouse is pamelaspatterns.com and fitforartpatterns.com.
easily extended or shortened, so
explore a variety of hem lengths.
LOOSE-FITTING RAGLAN TOP
SHELL PATTERN
PATTERN PREP
& FIT ADJUSTMENTS Butterick 3383 Butterick 61344
Armed with silhouette, neckline,
closure, sleeve and hem length
preferences, purchase a pattern
for the top or blouse style you've
identified as your favorite. If you’re
planning to make knit tops, choose
a pattern designed especially for
knits. Check the flat drawings on SHIRT SHELL PATTERN
the pattern envelope or in the online PATTERN WITH DARTS
WITH DARTS
description to confirm the design Butterick 6175
lines and shaping. Take bust, waist McCall’s 6750
and hip measurements and choose
the size range that includes your
largest measurements. Keep in mind
that most patterns are designed for
women who wear a B cup bra, so
adjust the fit for a cup size that's
smaller or larger. Some shirt and BLOUSE PATTERNS
top patterns include fronts in a WITH PRINCESS
SEAMS
variety of cup sizes, making them
a good choice for full- or flat- Butterick 5526
chested women. McCall’s 6076

Take the time to test and adjust

the pattern for fit. Cut out the
pattern in a light-colored mockup
fabric similar to the finished blouse
or top fabric. Draw grainlines and
KNIT BLOUSE
horizontal balance lines (HBLs) onto PATTERNS
each mockup piece using a dark
marker. If there are no HBLs on the Pamela’s Patterns
Perfect Tee
pattern, add them above and below
the bust point, perpendicular to the Fit for Art Patterns
grainline. Also add a center-front Tabula Rasa Jacket
and center-back line (6). Baste the McCall’s 6964
darts in place and baste the front
and back pieces together with
the marked lines showing on the

SEWNEWS.COM 49
 7

• If drag lines are present from the shirt or blouse seem overwhelming,
side to the bust, the upper back but if you’re having a hard time
into the neck or the sides into the keeping track, ask a sewing friend
hips, they point to areas that need to observe the grid lines and pin in
to be released. the adjustments. Or consider hiring
a sewing professional to assist you
Baste the changes one at a time
as you develop a collection of
and test the adjustments. Don’t cut
well-fitting wardrobe basics.
away the excess fabric until you’ve
tested the adjustment and transferred
the change to the paper pattern. This BLOUSE FABRIC SELECTION
step is critical so future tops will fit With so many suitable fabrics to
like the adjusted mockup. choose from, there are plenty of
Fitting Mockup Fitting Mockup choices for each style of blouse and
Front Back – pinned Once the blouse body fits smooth- top. For knit tops or shirt and blouse
along center- ly, baste in the sleeves and other
back seam patterns designed for stretch wovens,
detail pieces, such as collars, to choose fabrics for the mockup and
assess if they also fit well. Observe top based on the recommended
these areas in this round of fitting: fabrics on the pattern guidesheet.
• Do the shoulder and armhole sit Wovens with spandex are comfort-
on the body at the preferred able but don't have much drape, so
location? Adjust the seams to use them for more tailored styles.
outside. Put on the mockup, and correct the placement if desired. Cotton and silk shirting are great for
pin the opening together along most blouses or shirts. Softer fabrics,
• Does the sleeve feel like it has
the centerline, if applicable. such as rayons, silks and polyesters,
enough width and length?
make lovely draped tops and blouses
Systematically assess how the • Do collars or other detail pieces but are difficult to stiffen into crisp
shirt body fits your body. There are sit comfortably and smoothly on shirt collars. As you become comfort-
a number of places to observe and the blouse? able with the pattern, try some more
potentially adjust. At each stage,
Make adjustments to the mockup, challenging fabrics, such as a silk
remember to keep the grainlines
keep trying it on to test the fit, and crepe de chine print or soft wool
and HBLs of the fitting grid parallel
then transfer the adjustments to shirting. Choose fabrics that are
and perpendicular to the floor (7).
the paper pattern. Consider making appropriate to your climate and align
• If there isn't enough room for a second mockup if you’ve made a with your preferences for washing
the top to close comfortably, large number of changes. Transfer or dry cleaning.
release the seams. all adjustments to the paper pattern.
RESOURCES
• If there's too much room when Consider redrawing the pattern on The Association of Sewing and Design Professionals:
the top is pinned closed, take in clean pattern paper so it will with- sewingprofessionals.org

the seams. stand many more uses. Finally, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah
Veblen; published by Creative Publishing International,
construct the basic shirt, blouse
• If the HBLs are curving up toward 2012
or top using the adjusted pattern and
the center of the body, add more Looking Good: A Comprehensive Guide to Wardrobe
final fabric. Planning, Color, and Personal Style Development by
length through the bust in the front Nancy Nix-Rice; published by Palmer/Pletsch Publishing,
or a wedge of extra length for a Attending to all of those various 1996
rounded upper back. upper body curves can make fitting a

50 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
BEYOND THE BASICS
Once you’ve mastered a few basic patterns and amassed a nice blouse pattern library, explore more involved
pattern adjustments and alterations. Try a variety of different necklines, lengths, sleeve treatments and details
to build a handmade wardrobe.

Button-up Shirt with Colorblocked High- Button-up Blouse

Square Armhole, Long Hip Shell with with Princess Seams,
Sleeves & Swing Sides Elbow Sleeves Low Scoop Neck &
¾-Length Sleeves
with Pleated Trim

Long Darted Tunic with Yoke Skirt with Low-Hip Blouse with Zip
Cap Sleeves, Square Lace Midriff Blouse with Front, Dropped Shoulder &
Neckline, Button Cropped Back, Ballet Kimono Sleeves
Shoulders & Hem Slits Neckline & Set-in
Full Sleeves

SEWNEWS.COM 51
 Workshop
Essentials
BY MORGAN MEREDITH

For Father's Day, ceate a

welcome addition to dad’s
workshop with a shop apron
and tool roll made in rugged,
water resistant canvas.

52 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
SUPPLIES
• 12/3 yards of heavyweight canvas
fabric or oilcloth
• 9 yards of 1”-wide trim
(such as webbing, carpet
binding, twill tape or self fabric)
• 8 rivets (optional)
• Water repellent fabric finish
(optional; see “Source”)
• Curved ruler (optional)
• Leather scraps (optional)

Apron
CUT
Download the Workshop Essentials
pattern from sewnews.com/web_
extras for free until July 31, 2016.
Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.
com after the expiration date.
Cut out the pattern pieces.
From the canvas or duck, cut one
apron body, one chest pocket and
one main pocket.
edge, catching the trim front and edge. To reinforce the pocket upper
back in the stitching. edges, stitch a small triangle at each
CONSTRUCT
upper corner.
Double-fold the apron body sides Double-fold the trim ends ½”
and upper edge ½” toward the toward the wrong side; press. Stitch Mark vertical stitching lines on the
wrong side; press. Stitch 1/₈” from the 1/₈” from the folded edge to create chest pocket to create smaller
folded edge. waist ties. Or enclose the tie ends pockets that fit pencils, a cell phone
with a small folded leather square. or notebook. Stitch through all
Fold the apron lower edge ½” and
layers and backstitch at the begin-
2” toward the wrong side; press. Reinforce where the ties become
ning and end for reinforcement.
Stitch 1/₈” from the folded edge. bindings by applying rivets or by
Apply rivets to the pocket upper
backstitching across the trim several
Loop the trim over the apron body edge at the stitching lines for extra
times for security.
upper edge so the trim center is at security, if desired.
the neck center back. Leave a 20” Double-fold the chest-pocket
Double-fold the main-pocket
loop for the neck strap. upper edge ½” toward the wrong
slanted sides ½” toward the wrong
side; press. Stitch 1/₈” from the fold.
To finish the apron body curved side; press. Stitch 1/₈” from the
edges, place the trim along the curve Fold the chest pocket sides ½” folded edge.
so half of the trim extends beyond toward the wrong side. Pin the chest
pocket to the apron front 5½” from Fold the remaining main pocket
the apron body. Wrap the trim around
the apron upper edge. Edgestitch edges 1” toward the wrong side;
the fabric raw edge, press and then
press. Pin the pocket to the apron 3”
pin in place. Hand stitch 1/₈” from the the pocket along the sides and lower

SEWNEWS.COM 53
 below the chest pocket. Topstitch Mark the vertical stitching lines on
and edgestitch along the main the pocket. Stitch through all layers
pocket upper edge, straight sides and and backstitch at the beginning and
lower edge, leaving the slanted end for reinforcement.
pocket openings free. Bind the flap sides and lower edge
To strengthen the pocket openings, using the trim, leaving the upper
apply rivets to either side of the edge free.
slanted edges. Place the flap on the back and bind
Apply a water repellent finish to the the pieces together along the upper
fabric, following the manufacturer’s edges using the trim. Continue binding
instructions. the tool roll, folding the end 1½"
toward the wrong side and overlapping
it with the binding beginning.
Tool Roll To create a tie, fold a 30” length of
CUT trim in half and pin the center to the
Cut out the pattern pieces for the tool roll exterior. Position the
tool roll. stitching just above the pocket,
From the heavy canvas or duck, cut moving the flap out of the way.
one back, one pocket and one flap, Stitch thoroughly across the tape.
transferring all pattern markings. Double-fold the tie ends ½” toward
the wrong side. Stitch 1/₈” from the
CONSTRUCT folded edge. Or enclose the tie ends
Cover the area where the Double-fold the pocket upper edge with a small folded leather square.
binding overlaps using a ½” toward the wrong side; press.
leather scrap for a more Stitch 1/₈” from the folded edge. Secure the finished tool roll by
Place the pocket on the back panel, placing the flap over the pocket and
finished appearance.
adjusting the pocket height as rolling toward the ties. Encircle the roll
needed to accommodate the with the ties and knot to secure.
intended tools. Baste the sides and SOURCE
lower edge. Water repellent finish: Otter Wax, otterwax.com.

54 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 METHODS TO MASTER:

Side Seam
POCKETS BY MELISSA MORA

Have you ever found the almost perfect pattern, and the
only thing that would make it more perfect is pockets?
Luckily, side seam pockets are a cinch to add, as long
as the selected pattern has side seams.

SEWNEWS.COM 55
 Pockets work best
1 in lightweight woven
Add to or
subtract from fabrics so they don’t add
this line to adjust bulk to the garment.
seam allowance.

SUPPLIES
• Pattern with side seams edges and align the pocket side
seam with the garment side seam
• Fabric & notions (amount accord-
ing to the pattern envelope) Stitch the pocket to the garment
along the side seam (2). Repeat to
• Lightweight woven fabric
stitch the remaining pocket piece and
for pockets
2 garment back. Finish the side seam.
• All-purpose sewing thread As an optional step, topstitch the
pocket seam along the right side.
PREPARE
Flip the pockets away from the
Download the Side Seam Pocket
garment and press the seam
pattern from sewnews.com/
allowances toward the pocket.
web_extras. Print and cut out the
pattern piece. Place the garment front and
back right sides together, aligning
CUT the pockets.
Cut two mirrored pocket pieces for Stitch from the waist toward the
each pocket from the pocket fabric. pocket, overlapping the stitching
If adding two pockets, cut four from the previous step by the width
pocket pattern pieces. of the seam allowance.

CONSTRUCT End with the needle down, pivot

The pocket pattern piece includes and stitch across the pocket upper
½” seam allowances. To add this edge. End with the needle down,
pocket to a pattern using 5/8” seam pivot and stitch around the curved
3 allowances, increase the width of seam. End with the needle down,
the pocket opening by 1/8” (1). pivot and stitch the remaining
pocket straight edge, being careful
Determine where to place the upper not to catch the garment side seams
edge of each pocket on the gar- in the stitching. Overlap the stitching
ment. If the garment has a fold-over from the previous step by the width
casing waist construction, place the of the seam allowance. End with the
pocket upper edge ¼” above the needle down, pivot and stitch back
lower casing line. If the garment has onto the garment, completing the
a separate waistband or waistband garment side seam (3).
facings, place the pocket ¼” above
the waist seam allowance line. Finish the seam using pinking
shears, a serger or zigzag stitching.
Place one pocket piece on the Repeat this process with the remain-
garment front with right sides ing pocket.
together. Align the pocket upper

56 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 Press the pockets toward the
garment front. Press the waistband
casing, making sure the casing lower
edge overlaps the pocket upper
edge by ¼” (4). If the garment has
facings or a separate waistband,
catch the pocket upper edges when
attaching those seams.
When the garment is finished,
stitch the pocket upper edge into
the waistband, which helps the
pockets lie flat.

WATCH & LEARN

Get your summer sewing in high gear with Melissa Mora's Sew with Me patterns and
videos from shopsewitall.com. Each pattern comes with an instructional video to walk
you through the main construction steps. Or grab Melissa's new book, Sundressing,
featuring 21 designs for this summertime favorite (see page 71 for more information).

®
     
  


]]]HRGTQYRGZKVGZZKXTYIUS by
by

5IKGTYOJK6GTZY9NUXZY 
 

 



  /TYZX[IZOUTY    


 


and redistribution not permitted.

rights Reserved. Reproduction not permitted.

C ight 2014 Melissa Mora. All All i hts Reserved Redistribution

SEWNEWS.COM 57
CREATIVE SPACE

JENNY HART
BY VERONICA GRAHAM

Look inside the world of maverick hand embroidery

artist Jenny Hart of Sublime Stitching®. Learn
more about her storybook setup and her exclusive
embroidery patterns.

Photos by Katy Leigh Villari

58 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
T
HE ONE THING art requires,
Jenny Hart says, is uncon-
structed time—freedom to
create with abandon, sans restrictions
or interruptions. Finding said time
used to be a challenge when the
Sublime Stitching founder lived at
her Los Angeles warehouse, but it’s
become easier to immerse herself in
hand embroidery in her new home-
based studio outside the city. “It’s a
thing that you have to work really
hard to carve out, and it feels like
a luxury,” Hart says. “I always say
I need a room that no one else
goes in. I can close the door, be
uninterrupted, and think and work.”
Since starting Sublime Stitching
15 years ago, Hart’s been producing
contemporary hand embroidery
designs that draw on both her fine
art background and her combined
love for rock and roll, bass guitar and
comic books. It’s the hand embroi-
dery company she wished existed
when her mom taught her the craft
in the 1990s, she says. “The patterns
were really ‘70s and ‘80s and had
fallen into this teddy-bears-and-
bunnies realm,” says Hart. “Also the
learning resources were extremely
limited. They assumed you knew
how to put fabric in a hoop and
where the needles go.”
Hart became hooked on hand
embroidery because it combined her
drawing background with her love
for collage, a more freeform way of
creating. “The foundation of hand
embroidery is drawing. It’s needle art
used to interpret a drawing,” she says.
Hart’s material needs for hand
embroidery are minimal. She designs
patterns for Sublime Stitching by
hand drawing first and then digitizing
second on a tablet. Her personal
work is grander in scale and requires

SEWNEWS.COM 59
CREATIVE SPACE

generous wall and table surfaces oddly-placed cubbies and shelves,

more than anything else. A good and the chimney doesn’t work—Hart
chair and sufficient lighting are also jokes the buildings are “designed
essential for protecting her eyes to look like they’re crumbling”—but
and limbs. “I’ve never worked with it’s all part of the charm. “It’s pretty
a standing frame but I’ve started wonderful, pretty special and we’re
thinking about it a little more to lucky to be here,” she says. “Of
take the pressure off my neck.” course I want to be here all day,
every day.”
The minimalistic studio approach
may also be because Hart’s home Ripping out floor-to-floor carpet-
in itself is prime for inspiration. Her ing is the biggest change Hart made
property is a storybook home built to her studio after moving in, but her
in 1930 by a vaudeville and radio most clever improvement may be
entertainer. There are actually the stainless steel strips mounted
multiple houses on the lot that are along the top of the walls. Since
built to look like fairytale homes the plaster walls aren’t suitable for
(think Hansel and Gretel, Hart says). nails and tacks, she uses industrial
Her studio is considered the main strength magnets on the steel strips
room of the house it’s in, with a to hang and display work in progress.
vaulted ceiling, fireplace and dumb- Her table is an antique partners desk
waiter. Storage space comes in designed to accommodate two

PATTERN & VIDEO

EXCLUSIVES
Discover the art of hand embroidery with four
exclusive patterns, available individually
Queen
or as a set. Each pattern comes with
of Hearts
o
Jenny Hart’s Hand Embroidery Basics video, too.
Find them at shopsewitall.com.

HAND

Each design is also available

for machine embroidery.
Find the designs and
the collection at
shopsewitall.com.

MACHINE

60 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 people. “We had to deconstruct it to straightforward. I don’t work with
get it in,” Hart says, “but it’s got tons anything toxic or need air ventila-
of drawers. I have a scissor drawer, tion or giant doors to move out
a hoop drawer, pens and pencils, huge paintings. I just like having
paints and papers.” a big workspace, music and my
dog around,” she says.
Sums up Hart: “My needs for
an art space are fairly simple and

HAND
HAND

MACH
INE

Tulip
T
Twosome

Pheasant Pair

HAND

MACH
INE

MACH
INE

Hearts & Blooms

SEWNEWS.COM 61
 ALONG

THE
SOMA
SWIMSUIT
BY RHONDA BUSS

Soma Swimsuit,
Papercut Patterns

62 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 BUY IT
Purchase the Soma
Swimsuit Pattern by
Papercut Patterns at
shopsewitall.com.
ON THE BLOG!
The next Sew News Sew-Along
begins on June 6, 2016. Each week
through June, visit the Sew News
blog for tips to stitch the Soma
Swimsuit. Plus, find easy solutions to
tricky sewing techniques, such as
sewing with spandex and four-way
stretch fabrics, adding bra inserts for
coverage and working with elastics.

PATTERN DETAILS
With today’s modern fabrics,
advancement in sewing machine
technology and the availability
of professional notions and tools,
it’s easy to sew a swimsuit that
rivals any found in a department
store. Creating a flattering swimsuit
doesn’t require a serger or any
specialty machines. As long as
your sewing machine has a zigzag
stitch, any home sewist can make
a well-fitting swimsuit.
The Soma Swimsuit by Papercut
Patterns is both feminine and
flattering. With just the right amount
of coverage to suit a variety of body
shapes, the Soma suit is anything
but boring. This curve-highlighting
swimsuit is shaped with a crisscross
back, a faux-wrap front and fun
cut-outs, with an open back for
moderate coverage. The eye-catch-
ing straps add a bit of drama and can
be played up with contrasting fabric
colors and interesting hardware.

JOIN
the Sew News Soma Swimsuit
Sew-Along on the Sew News Blog
at sewnews.com/blogs/sewing.

SEWNEWS.COM 63
Sew & Tell

The Soma Swimsuit pattern has

three versions, a one-piece and
IT'S IN THE DETAILS two different two-piece options.
Join the Sew News Soma Swimsuit Sew-Along and learn proper For the Sew-Along, we’ll be sewing
techniques for professional results. the one-piece, but if you opt to make
• Learn how to insert a swimsuit lining. the two-piece, you can still follow
• Find techniques on how to use foldover elastic (A). along for swimsuit sewing tips and
techniques. The pattern itself comes
• Learn how to attach bra inserts for coverage and support (B).
in a specially printed envelope and
• Get tips for sewing with spandex. is beautifully designed and packaged.
The pattern includes two bra and
two bottom versions for the two-
A piece suit as well as the one-piece
design, in a size range of XXS through
XL. Recommended fabrics for the
Soma Swimsuit are spandex and
swimsuit lining only.

SEW-ALONG SCHEDULE
Purchase the pattern and buy the
fabric, notions and supplies according
to the pattern guide. Join the Soma
Swimsuit Sew-Along on the Sew News
blog. Prep the chosen fabric accord-
ing to the manufacturer’s suggestions
and visit the Sew News blog each
week for updates and further written
instructions and expert how-tos.
B
Week 1: Week of June 6
Pattern Elements & Fabric Choice
Week 2: Week of June 13
Tips for Sewing with
Spandex & Swimsuit Fabrics
Week 3: Week of June 20
Cutting Out & Construction
Week 4: Week of June 27
Finishing Details

64 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 Shop
Now! must haves & cool tools for sewing success
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FASHION FETE

COLOR Classic tropical patterns

in rich greens and blues act as a
foundation for bright fluorescents,
such as vivid pinks, oranges and
yellows. For a more sophisticated
look, choose a monochromatic
tropical pattern and add touches
of color with a clutch, shoe or belt.

EMBELLISHMENTS The fabric prints

are the focal point of the tropical trend, so
there’s minimal embellishment. However,
adding beading, sequins or rhinestones
over sections of the fabric print adds
dimension and elevates a casual garment
into a more expensive evening look.

tock.com
FashionStock.com / Shutters

On Trend:
Pop Tropical BY KIM SABA

Pair classic tropical prints with a variety of silhouettes

for summer, including rompers, jumpsuits, trapeze maxi
dresses and shift dresses. To get the look, pick a romper
pattern that has either a fitted bodice and full short or a
loose-fit bodice cinched at the natural waist, paired with a
playful jungle leaf print. Try a loose-fitting shift dress with a
large-scale print or a symmetrically mirrored graphic along
the dress center front for impact. Another trend is to pair
peg-leg pants in an all-over print with a matching loose- FABRIC The tropical
fitting sleeveless crop top. If you’re afraid of a matching trend offers endless fabric
set, pair the pant with a solid color top. possibilities. Select a woven
cotton blend for a matching
top-and-bottom set or a
colorful heavyweight knit
for a shift dress. Neoprene
GET THE LOOK Start your
has been a trendy fabric for
summer wardrobe with a pair
multiple seasons and is no
of versatile pants. Select a
exception for this summer,
fun tropical print, and stitch
as it's perfect for loose-
a matching or neutral top.
fitting garments.
Purchase the Clover Slim Pants
Pattern by Colette Patterns at
shopsewitall.com to get started.

66 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
ashionable & unctional
CLUTCH E S, B AG S A N D TOT E S!

Pattern designer, sewist and author Michelle

Golightly offers up fresh, on-trend handbag
creations your friends will covet. Whether
you’re dashing out the door with your Lunch
Date Clutch, packing up your Farmer’s Market
Tote or gifting a friend with a Provence Travel
Bag, the projects in Signature Bags would look
at home on the runway…but they’ll look even
better on your arm!

$24.99 | 176 pages | 9781440244209

SHOPSEWITALL.COM
HOME COUTURE

Mod Minimalism
BY KIM SABA
Get the mid-mod look in your
home with a refreshing mix of
colors and textures.

INSPIRATION Find contemporary mid-century

modern furniture at furniture stores or purchase
authentic vintage pieces at thrift stores. Look for
furniture with a mid-century feel, such as tapered legs
and clean, sharp horizontal lines, that you can easily
reupholster. Not only will they be inexpensive but you
can choose fabric to match your room.

COLOR Keep the walls and rugs in natural

hues such as white, cream and gray. Select
side tables, coffee tables and bookcases in
natural woods, such as birch, walnut or teak.
For mid-century color pops, choose a subtle,
less saturated green, blue or salmon.
INTERIOR Modern home décor fabrics, such as
woven linen, combine timeless construction with
contemporary fibers. Select linen that has an interest-
ing texture and in a synthetic or synthetic blend for
easy cleaning, and then pair with other durable
fabrics, such as faux leather and duck. Mix natural
materials, such as wood and metal, into a room for GET IT For more interesting ways
textural contrast. Keep knick-knacks and decorative to add mid-century modern color
items sparse for a minimalist feeling. For added visual to a room, sew your own home-
interest, use a large neutral floor rug in a classic décor projects, such as a custom
geometric pattern. chair cushion or butterfly chair.
Find the Stitch Home eBook at
shopsewitall.com to get started.

68 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 No Pins, No Basting,
No Kidding!
Learn to sew faster and better while using industry sewing techniques in the
Islander Sewing Systems Certification Course, available at Craft U.

In this course, Janet Pray walks you through the Islander

Sewing System. As a certified Islander Sewing Instructor,
you’ll be licensed to teach the techniques learned in the
course; have the ability to resell Islander products; reach
a larger audience of potential students with your class
schedule posted on the Islander Sewing site; and improve
your sewing skills, confidence and teaching abilities.

You’ll learn valuable industrial shortcuts and apply the

techniques while making a buttondown shirt. Learn to set
pockets, produce crisp collars and cuffs, insert zippers, make
excellent waistbands and more—all without pins or basting.
Plus, you’ll receive downloadable pattern pieces and a
bonus lesson on managing a sewing business, including
how to teach sewing, produce products to sell and more.
rican Sewing Expo and
Janet Pray is the president of The Ame
of Islander Sewi ng Syste ms Com pany. Janet served as the
owner
tor of the Natio nal Sewi ng Council for 3 years. In
Executive Direc
2012, she was presented with a Lifeti me Achievement Award by
Profe ssionals.
Course runs May 31 – Sept. 6, 2016.
n
the Association of Sewing and Desig
• Access the course for 6 weeks—take them anytime,
Find additional items you need to take anywhere, using a computer, tablet or smartphone
the course in one convenient kit, including
practice fabric, patterns and specialty • No set class time! Courses are structured to fit
notions, available at SHOPSEWITALL.COM. around your schedule
Item# • Access the instructor for 6 weeks to answer your
SNKJPCU
questions and provide feedback
Preregister for this course to secure your spot
at craftonlineuniversity.com!
 ASK THE
EDITOR
Sewing inspiration, successes, tips and more
with Senior Editor, Amanda Carestio

What are your current

favorite knit patterns?
-Amber L.

In the last year, there's been a major influx of garment patterns

designed exclusively for knit fabrics from major pattern companies
to indie designers. Fabric companies are, in part, fueling the
knit trend. Many designer quilting cotton lines feature garment-
friendly fabrics, including coordinating knits. This trend makes me Art Gallery Fabrics
very happy, as there are even more lovely knit fabrics and stellar supplied the Fluxus
patterns to choose from! Ochre, Sand Bar
Lagoon and High
My favorite knit patterns take advantage of knit fabric’s capacity Flown Lunar fabrics:
for a flowing, easy fit but still incorporate a bit of structure and artgalleryfabrics.com.
details for interest. Oh, and pockets. I gravitate toward basic
patterns that are easily customized when building my pattern
library. Whether you’re in the throws of creating your summer
wardrobe or looking forward to the cooler fall and winter months,
look below for some of my favorite picks.

It's no secret that I’m a Available full-length The Pocketful of Posies The Linden Sweat- Designed with curves
sucker for pockets. The or mid-calf, the Dress from Blank Slate shirt is a lovely in mind in sizes 12 to
Melanie Misses Dress by Hudson Pants from Patterns is feminine basic wardrobe 28, the Appleton Dress
Modkid delivers with True Bias are both and flirty, with lots of builder from from Cashmerette
sophisticated lines and comfy and fashion- details, such as pretty Grainline Studio. is a flirty wrap dress,
wear-everyday comfort. able, inspired by pleating, deep pockets Stylish and cozy, easily customized
etsy.com/shop/modkid sportswear trends and ribbing at the I live in mine. for summer or fall.
with just a touch neckline, sleeves shop.grainlinestudio. cashmerette.com
of urban styling. and hemline. com
truebias.com shopsewitall.com

70 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 OFF THE SHELF Stock your sewing library and increase your
know-how with the latest and greatest books.

SUNDRESSING
By Melissa Mora
No summer to-sew list is complete without a sundress (or four).
Though easy to layer for cooler months, the sundress is the epitome
of breezy comfort and a feminine silhouette. With 21 featured dresses
to choose from, including multiple designs for girls, Sundressing is
your one stop for all things stylish, chic and summery.
interweavestore.com

WIN A COPY!
Enter to win a copy
of Beyond Cotton on
the Sew News blog
on June 14!

WINDY CITY BAGS SEWING HAPPINESS BEYOND COTTON

By Sara Lawson By Sanae Ishida By Krista Fleckenstein
In the follow-up to her popular Arranged by season, Sewing Happi- Explore a variety of ways to make your
Big-City Bags, Windy City Bags author ness presents a collection of simple, own fabric, from painting techniques
Sara Lawson presents 12 structured, streamlined projects for your sewing to block printing to screen printing
sophisticated bags with expert enjoyment year round. Perfection is and dyeing, all while making 19
instructions and helpful illustrations not the goal here but simply the beautiful and unique mixed media
along the way. From the unisex practice of sewing, with its deeper projects. Incorporate leather and
Shades Laptop Bag to the perfectly- meanings and healing potential. Craft canvas for even more creative
sized Woodson to the sweet, petite a reusable, modern Triangle Eco Bag, options. A basic tote with leather
Festival purse, you’ll find a bag for a variety of bound books for journal- handles and printed freckles, a
every day and every occasion. ing and sketching, easy wearables block-printed tea towel with blooming
shopmartingale.com like a Versatile Knit Dress and a buds, handy painted leather baskets—
surprisingly sophisticated Fortune there’s much to love.
Cookie Advent Calendar just for fun. luckyspool.com
sasquatchbooks.com

SEWNEWS.COM 71
LAST LAUGH
DIAGRAM DISASTER ON PINS & NEEDLES
When I was 10, my mom set out to I learned the hard way that it’s easy to
teach me how to sew my first outfit. leave a small straight pin in the side of
It was the mid-60s and matching a pillow. After I turned and stuffed one
bodysuit-style tops and pants were particular pillow, I could not wait to place
in so I picked out a multi-color knit it on my sofa. My husband sat on the
to make the two pieces. I decided pillow, and, needless to say, he let out
to cut out my garments while I was a few choice words. I now check very
home alone. After laying the fabric carefully for any pins I use.
out carefully on the floor, I laid out Sue B., Facebook
my pattern pieces, pinned them in
place and cut out everything. I was
pretty proud of myself until mom SLEEVE PEEVE
came home, admired my cut pieces Many years ago, when the style for
and gently asked if I'd followed the spring coats was for the sleeves to
cutting diagram. I had carefully cut fall just below the elbows and be
every single piece with the stretch worn with long gloves, I sewed a
running the wrong way. navy lightweight wool coat. It turned
Annette M., Facebook out gorgeous and I was so proud.
I thought the sleeves were too long
so I cut one off to the right length.
I placed the piece I cut off on the
And the other sleeve, I thought, and cut it
LAST LAUGH to the same length. Unfortunately,
goes to... I had cut the same sleeve twice!
Janice N., Facebook

MIX & MATCH

I decided to start sewing my son’s shorts and T-shirts for summer when he
was little. I was making the first pair of shorts, and I didn't follow the layout
instructions. Instead, I thought, if I lay this out differently, I could get two
pairs of shorts out of one piece of fabric. That was the day I learned to
follow the directions. The shorts did turn out fine, though on one leg the
fabric was right side out and the other leg was wrong side out. I had to say
that it was a new fad.
Christa C., Facebook

Send your sewing bloopers to sewnews@sewnews.com with your name and mailing address!
If your blooper is chosen as our “Last Laugh,” you’ll win the Best of Sew News book bundle,
including Sew it All: Quick Projects, Best of Sew News: Home Accessories and Basics & Beyond:
Simple Embellishments, valued at more than $50. Find these books and more at shopsewitall.com.
Bloopers become the property of Sew News and may be edited for clarity and brevity.

Issue 353. Sew News (ISSN 0273-8120) is published 6 times a year in Feb/March, April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov, Dec/Jan by F+W Media, 741 Corporate Circle,
Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, CO 80401 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Sew News, P.O. Box
420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Bluechip International, PO Box 25542 London, ON N6C 6B2 Canada.

72 SEWNEWS.COM J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 6
 3 Full Days — LIVE!
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Enjoy a unique retreat-style experience that blends the
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Introducing the Horizon Memory Craft 9400

AcuFeed™ is an integrated system that Superior illumination with 9 LEDs 3 included Quick Change Needle Plates
flawlessly feeds your fabric from both the and retractable High Light™ for better piecing, top stitching, and curves
top and the bottom

• Auto Presser Foot Lift

• 350 Stitches up to 9mm width
• 11” to the right of the needle
• Memorized Quilt Seaming

Experience it for yourself - Visit your local Authorized

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WHAT’S NEXT

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Memory Craft 9400QCP