Personal Care

Formulation Guide
CONTENT

PRODUCT CATEGORY PAGES

BODY TREATMENT

Liquid Hand Soaps 04 - 11

Shower Gels 12 - 27

Shower Oils & Body Wash Emulsion 28 - 31

Intimate Hygiene Products 32 - 41

Skin Care Products 42 - 53

FACE TREATMENT

Face Care Products 54 - 65

Make Up Removers & Micellar Fluids 66 - 73

Shaving Products 74 - 79

HAIR TREATMENT

Shampoos & Conditioners 80 - 87

OTHER

Products Dedicated To Babies 88 - 99

Antiperspirants 100
4 Liqide Hand Soaps
Body Treatment

LIQUID
HAND SOAPS
Liquid hand soap is a product formulated to wash and clean hands.
It belongs to the group of common dirt removers in commercial and
industrial cleaning processes. Liquid hand soaps are the most widely
used products in cleaning sector.

Liquid hand soaps can be characterized by different features which are

dependent on their components. There are plenty of various products
available on the market such as liquid hand soaps for babies, mechanical
workers, traditional or economic products.

Liquid hand soaps have to be effective general-purpose cleaners, easy

to apply and use and their suppose to be capable of removing different
types of dirt such as vegetable and animal oils, fat, wax deposits, dust
and many others.

According to WHO, 70% cases of

gastrointestinal intoxication, skin
infections and conjunctivitis are
caused by the germs transmitted
to hands.

On one square centimeter of the skin there are plenty of various bac-
teria. All these germs are transferred every day from human to human
when shaking hands, holding on to the handles in public transport, to-
uching coins and banknotes that come into contact with hundreds of
hands a day.

Only proper hand hygiene will protect us against dangerous germs and
bugs. That is the reason why hands should be oftently washed with the
usage of an appropriate designed formulations.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 5

LIQUID HAND SOAP [RD-01]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

MEA Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan M 12.00 surfactant

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 10.00 surfactant

Cocamide DEA ROKAmid KAD 1.00 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 re-oiling agent

B Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 7.00 surfactant

Sodium Chloride 0.80 viscosity modifier

C Citric Acid q.s. pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method clear, homogenous

liquid

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 6000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to warm water (50-55°C). 4. If necessary, add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity.
Mix until homogenous solution is obtained. NOTE: it is very important to equilibrate a sample at
25°C for at least one hour to get an accurate viscosity
2. Cool the batch down to at least 35°C.
measurement.
3. Add parfum and Cocamidopropyl Betaine during
5. If necessary, adjust pH by Citric Acid to 4.8 – 5.5.
mixing. Mix until homogenous solution is obtained.

6 Liqide Hand Soaps

TRADITIONAL LIQUID SOAP [MP-01]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Benzophenone-4 0.05 UV absorber

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 30.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 5.00 surfactant

Citric Acid 0.25 pH modifier

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.60
Potassium Sorbate

B Parfum 0.50 fragrance

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 re-oiling agent

CI 19140 q.s. colorant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 7.00 surfactant

C Sodium Chloride 2.20 viscosity modifier

APPEARANCE visual method bright-yellow gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 2500 - 5000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the warm water (45- 5. Add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity. NOTE.
50°C). Mix until uniform. Add salt (not in one go) – after addition of each portion
mix well.
2. Cool the batch down to at least 35°C.
6. Control the pH range – if necessary, add citric acid. Mix
3. Add fragrance, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and colorant
well after adjustment.
during mixing. Mix until uniform.
7. Control viscosity if necessary, add Sodium Chloride.
4. Add slowly Cocamidopropyl Betaine during mixing.
Mix until uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 7

LIQUID BLACK SOAP FOR MEN [MP-02]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 48.23 solvent

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl viscosity modifier

1.00
Acrylate Crosspolymer

B Aqua 16.00 solvent

Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate ROKAtend GL 5.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 20.00 surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 7.00 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 re-oiling agent

C Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Activated Charcoal 0.02 black color additive

Ehylhexyl Glycerine, preservative

1.00
Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hydroxide pH modifier

D 0.25
(30% solution)

APPEARANCE visual method black, viscous gel

pH 5.5 - 6.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 20°C 15000 - 20000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Pour the warm deionized water (40-50°C) into the main 3. Add phase B to phase A. Mix until homogenous
vessel and add the Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate solution is obtained. Cool the batch down to 30°C.
Crosspolymer. Start mixing when the agent is completely When the batch is around 30°C, add preservative,
wetted. Mix until the homogenous solution is obtained. Activated Charcoal and fragrance. Mix for 20 – 30
minutes with slow agitation. If necessery, homogenise
2. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel.
for 1-2 minutes.
Heat up to 60°C with gentle agitation. Mix until
4. Readjust the final pH to 5.5 – 6.5 with additional
homogenous solution is obtained.
Sodium Hydroxide (30%) if necessary.

8 Liqide Hand Soaps

MILD YELLOW HAND SOAP [MP-03]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 46.55 solvent

Potassium Oleate 8.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate ROKAtend GL 25.00 surfactant

Decyl Glucoside 7.00 surfactant

B Citric Acid 0.20 pH modifier

C Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Benzy Alcohol,
Ethylhexyglycerin, 1.00 preservative
Tocopherol

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 10.00 surfactant

Sodium Chloride 1.75 viscosity modifier

APPEARANCE visual method yellow liquid

pH 8.5 - 9.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 5000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Into the large vessel (big enough to provide adequate 4. Adjust pH to 8.5 – 9.0 by using Citric Acid. Mix well
mixing while preparing batch) pour deionized water. after adjustment.
2. Add ingredients from phase A to the vessel while mixing. 5. Add fragrance, preservative and Cocamidopropyl
Heat up to 70 – 75°C. Mix until homogenous solution Betaine. Mix until homogenous solution is obtained.
is obtained.
6. If necessary, add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity.
3. Cool the batch down to at least 35°C. NOTE: it is very important to equilibrate a sample at
25°C for at least one hour to get an accurate viscosity
measurement.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 9

MILD LIQUID HAND SOAP [MP-04]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 74.50 solvent

Potassium Oleate 4.00 surfactant

MIPA Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L390/1M 10.00 surfactant

and Propylene Glycol

Cocamide DEA ROKAmid KAD 1.50 surfactant

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Ehylhexyl Glycerine, preservative

1.00
Phenoxyethanol

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 7.00 surfactant

Sodium Chloride 1.50 viscosity modifier

APPEARANCE visual method clear yellowish gel

pH 8.5 - 9.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 4.0 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 6000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Heat up the water to (40-50°C) and add the ingredients 3. Add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity. NOTE.
one after another in the order from the table above. Add salt (not in one go) – after addition of each
portion mix well.
2. Before adding a parfum cool the mixture down to room
temperature and add the rest of ingredients.

10 Liqide Hand Soaps

ECONOMIC LIQUID HAND SOAP [KD-103]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

Cocamidopropyl Betaine, EXOcare PC60 8.00 surfactant
Coco-Glucoside

Sodium Benzoate,
Potassium Sorbate 0.50 preservative

Betaine 0.50 active

Lactic Acid 0.15 pH adjuster

Cocamide DEA ROKAmid KAD 0.50 surfactant

B Parfum 0.50 fragrance

CI 42090 q.s. colorant

CI 19140 q.s. colorant

C Sodium Chloride 2.50 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method light-green, viscous gel

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 3.0 RPM, T: 25°C 2000 - 5000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Mix until uniform. 3. Add Sodium Chloride while mixing. Mix until uniform.
2. Add phase B ingredients. Mix until uniform. 4. Control viscosity and pH.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 11

12 Shower Gels
Body Treatment

SHOWER
GELS
Shower gels are designed to remove dirt, tallow and impurities of the
epidermis, as well as prevent its drying. Products of this type should also
adequately moisturize and nourish the skin.

There are plenty of different shower gels available on the market such as:
• pearly / transparent / coloured products,
• traditional / mild products,
• designed for babies / people with sensitive skin,
• moisturising products
and many others, although there are general requirements for this type
of cosmetics.

The choice of products which con-

tain an appropriate components,
provides feeling of smoothness
and softness to the skin.

In general, shower gels should be characterized by:

• good foaming properties (should quickly create high-volume, stable
foam),
• good wettability of dirt and fat on the skin,
• not causing the skin dryness and be safe for the environment,
• ability to disperse emulsified dirt particles in the bath,
• good performance in the presence of hard water,
• improving skin condition after bathing,
• not irritating efect to the eyes, mucous membranes and skin.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 13

SHOWER GEL WITH PEARLY EFFECT [ZP-01]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 46.12 solvent

Citric Acid 0.15 pH modifier

Polyquaternium 10 0.06 conditioning agent

Disodium Laureth
EXOsoft L3/40 2.50 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 20.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 20.00 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

PEG-120 Methyl thickening agent

B 0.50
Glucose Dioleate

C Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 5.50 surfactant

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

D Cocamide DEA, EXOpearl N 2.00 pearling agent
Glycol Distearate

E Sodium Chloride 2.00 viscosity modifier

Citric Acid 0.17 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method viscosus, pearl gel

pH 5.0 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 6000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the hot water (70-75°C). 5. Add pearling agent. Mix until uniform.
While mixing add ingredients one after another in the
6. Add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity. NOTE.
order from the table above. Mix until uniform.
Add salt (not in one go) – after addition of each portion
2. Cool the batch down to at least 50°C. mix well.
3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate during mixing. 7. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Citric Acid.
Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 35°C. Mix well after adjustment.
4. Add fragrance and Coco Betaine during mixing. Mix 8. Control the viscosity, if necessary add Sodium Chloride.
until uniform.

14 Shower Gels
CLASSIC SHOWER GEL [ZP-02]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 49.15 solvent

Citric Acid 0.20 pH modifier

Lauryl Glucoside 5.00 surfactant

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 15.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 20.00 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.60
Potassium Sorbate

PEG-120 Methyl
B 0.70 thickening agent
Glucose Dioleate

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.50 re-oiling agent

C Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 5.00 surfactant

D Citric Acid 0.20 pH modifier

Sodium Chloride 2.15 viscosity modifier

APPEARANCE visual method clear, viscosus gel

pH 5.0 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 6000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the warm water (55-60°C). 5. Add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity. NOTE.
Mix until uniform. Add salt (not in one go) – after addition of each portion
mix well.
2. Cool the batch down to at least 50°C.
6. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Citric Acid.
3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate and PEG-7
Mix well after adjustment.
Glyceryl Cocoate during mixing. Mix until uniform.
Cool the batch down to at least 35°C.
4. Add fragrance and Cocamidopropyl Betaine during
mixing. Mix until uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 15

WHITE SHOWER GEL [ZP-03]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 33.37 solvent

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl viscosity modifier

0.40
Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide (30% solution) 0.25 pH modifier

B Aqua 20.00 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.45 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Polyquaternium 10 0.01 conditioning agent

C Aqua 10.00 solvent

Talc 2.00 skin conditioner

Mica, Titanium dioxide 0.02 pearling agent

Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate ROKAtend GL 10.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 20.00 surfactant

D Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Ehylhexyl Glycerine, preservative

1.00
Phenoxyethanol

APPEARANCE visual method white viscous gel

pH 6.0 - 7.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 6000 - 9000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Pour the warm deionized water (40-50°C) into the 4. Add phase B to main vessel. Mix until homogenous
main vessel and add the Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate solution is obtained. If needed, homogenise for 2-3
Crosspolymer. Start mixing when the agent is completely minutes.
wetted. Mix until the homogenous solution is obtained.
5. Combine ingredients from phase C in a separate vessel.
2. Add Sodium Hydroxide. Mix until homogenous solution Heat up to 40°C with gentle agitation. Mix until
is obtained. homogenous solution is obtained.
3. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel. 6. Add phase C to the main vessel. Mix until homogenous
Add Xanthan Gum to Glycerin – mix until homogenous solution is obtained. Cool the batch down to 30°C.
solution is obtained. Add warm water (40-50°C) and
7. Add fragrance and preservative. Mix gently until
Polyquaternium-10. Mix until homogenous solution is
homogenous solution is obtained.
obtained. If necessery, homogenise for 2-3 minutes.

16 Shower Gels
BLACK-GOLD SHOWER GEL FOR MEN [ZP-04]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 67.09 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.90 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.50 moisturising agent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.30
Potassium Sorbate

Polyquaternium-7 0.01 conditioning agent

B Ammonium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol A325/1 24.00 surfactant

CI 77000, CI 77491, Silica 0.03 pigment

Activated Charcoal 0.02 pigment

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 re-oiling agent

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 3.40 surfactant

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.30
Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid 0.15 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method black-gold gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 8000 - 15000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A 3. Combine ingredients from the phase B and mix until
by adding Xanthan Gum to Glycerin and mixing until uniform. Control the pH range – if necessary, add
homogenous solution is obtained. Then, take 2.5 g of Citric Acid.
water from phase A to a separate beaker add Polyqu-
4. Add phase B to phase A and mix well. Cool the batch
aternium-7 and mix them well.
down to 30°C and homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
2. Add the rest of warm water (50-55°C) from phase A
to the main vessel and homogenise for 1-2 minutes.
At the and of preparation, mix the solutions, add
preservative and homogenise for 2-3 minutes.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 17

BLACK SHOWER GEL FOR MEN [ZP-05]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 56.58 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.90 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.50 moisturising agent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.30
Potassium Sorbate

Polyquaternium-7 0.01 conditioning agent

B Aqua 1.24 solvent

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol A325/1 24.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 10.00 surfactant

Activated Charcoal 0.01 pigment

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.30
Potassium Sorbate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 3.40 surfactant

Citric Acid 0.26 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method black clear gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 6000 - 15000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A 3. Combine ingredients from the phase B and mix until
by adding Xanthan Gum to Glycerin and mixing until uniform. Control the pH range – if necessary, add
homogenous solution is obtained. Then, take 2.5 g of Citric Acid.
water from phase A to a separate beaker add
4. Add phase B to phase A and mix well. Cool the batch
Polyquaternium-7 and mix them well.
down to 30°C and homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
2. Add the rest of warm water (50-55°C) from phase A to
the main vessel and homogenise for 1-2 minutes. At
the and of preparation, mix the solutions, add
preservative and homogenise for 2-3 minutes.

18 Shower Gels
MILD SHOWER GEL [ZP-10]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 65.76 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.90 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.50 moisturising agent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

1.00
Potassium Sorbate

B Aqua 1.95 solvent

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MG 23.10 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 surfactant

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 3.40 surfactant

Citric Acid 0.09 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method colorless clear gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 7000 - 15000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 3. Add phase B to phase A and mix well. Cool the batch
Add Xanthan Gum to glycerin – mix until homogenous down to 30°C and homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
solution is obtained. Then, pour warm water (50-55°C)
from phase A to the main vessel and mix. Add
preservative. Homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
2. Combine ingredients from the phase B and mix until
uniform. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Citric
Acid.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 19

LIQUID SHOWER GEL FOR WOMEN [ZP-11]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 66.53 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.90 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.50 moisturising agent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.30
Potassium Sorbate

B Aqua 8.30 solvent

MIPA Laureth Sulfate

SULFOROKAnol L390/1M 7.00 surfactant
(and) Propylene Glycol

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 10.00 surfactant

CI 77000, pigment
0.02
Acrylates Crosspolymer

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.30
Potassium Sorbate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 3.40 surfactant

Citric Acid 0.25 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method gold scintillating gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 7000 - 15000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 3. Add phase B to phase A and mix well. Cool the batch
Add Xanthan Gum to glycerin – mix until homogenous down to 30°C and homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
solution is obtained. Then, pour warm water (50-55°C)
from phase A to the main vessel and mix. Add
preservative. Homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
2. Combine ingredients from the phase B and mix until
uniform. Control the pH range – if necessary, add
Citric Acid.

20 Shower Gels
MOISTURIZING BODY WASH GEL [KD-104]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 81.25 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

Cocamidopropyl Betaine, EXOcare PC60 15.00 surfactant
Coco-Glucoside

Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Allantoin 0.10 active

Lactic Acid 0.15 pH adjuster

PEG-120 Methyl thickener

B 0.50
Glucose Dioleate

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Urea 0.50 active

C Sodium Chloride 1.50 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method transparent, viscous gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 3.0 RPM, T: 25°C 2000 - 7000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Mix until uniform. 3. Add Sodium Chloride while mixing. Mix until uniform.
2. Add ingredients from phase B while mixing. Mix until
uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 21

CLEANSING GEL [KD-121]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate, surfactant

EXOcare ML70 5.00
Cocamide MEA

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Lactic Acid 0.25 pH adjuster

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 2.00 surfactant

B Parfum 0.25 fragrance

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 8.00 surfactant

C Sodium Chloride 0.50 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method viscous gel

pH 4.6 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.0 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 10000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Mix until uniform. 3. Add slowly Sodium Chloride while mixing.
Mix until uniform.
2. Add slowly Parfum and ROKAmina K30 while mixing –
mix until uniform.

22 Shower Gels
UREA SHOWER GEL [KD-123]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate, EXOcare ML70 5.00 surfactant

Cocamide MEA

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L270/1 8.00 surfactant

Glycerin 2.00 solvent

Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.70
Potassium Sorbate

Kwas L(+)-Mlekowy 80% pH adjuster

Lactic Acid 1.00
E270

Sodium Lactate Sodium L-Lactate 50% 1.40 pH adjuster

Arginine 0.50 active

Urea 4.00 humectant

B Parfum 0.50 fragrance

C Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.00 surfactant

D Sodium Chloride 1.50 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method gel

pH 4.7 - 5.7

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 3.0 RPM, T: 25°C 2500 - 10000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, -5/40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In main vessel combine ingredients from phase A – 4. Add slowly ROKAmina K30 while mixing – mix until
mix until uniform (cloudy solution). uniform.
2. Prepare the remaining ingredients in separate beakers. 5. Add slowly Sodium Chloride while mixing – mix until
uniform.
3. Add Parfum – mix until uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 23

SHOWER GEL – MEN COMFORT [KD-126]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua to 100.00 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate, surfactant

EXOcare ML70 19.00
Cocamide MEA

B Acrylates Copolymer 6.00 rheology modifier

Aqua 6.00 solvent

C Sodium Hydroxide 0.20 pH adjuster

Phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben,
0.80 preservative
Ethylparaben,
Propylparaben

D Sodium Chloride 0.50 thickener

E Petrolatum 3.00 emollient

F Parfum 0.50 fragrance

G CI 42090 0.005 colorant

APPEARANCE visual method blue, viscous gel

pH 6.0 - 7.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A and B in separate 4. Add Sodium Chloride while mixing – mix until
vessel – mix until uniform. uniform.
2. Add slowly phase B to phase A during mixing – 5. Add phase E,F,G while mixing – mix until uniform.
mix until uniform. In separate vessels prepare other
ingredients.
3. Add preservative and pH adjuster during mixing – mix
until uniform.

24 Shower Gels
BODY WASH WITH MENTHOL COOL [KD-210]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan A 22.00 surfactant

Coco-Glucoside 4.00 surfactant

Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, preservative

B 0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Lactic Acid 0.20 pH adjuster

Aqua, Coffea Arabica Seed active

0.10
Extract, Alcohol

C Alcohol 0.50 solvent

Menthol 0.05 refreshing

D Cocamidopropyl Betaine Rokamina K40HC 7.00 surfactant

E Sodium Chloride 0.50 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method gel

pH 4.7 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 3.0 RPM, T: 25°C 2500 - 8000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A 4. Add phase C ingredients while mixing – mix until
– mix until uniform. In separate vessel combine uniform.
ingredients from phase C – mix until uniform.
5. Add Rokamina K40HC while mixing – mix until
2. Prepare the remaining ingredients in separate beakers. uniform.
3. Add ingredients from phase B while mixing – mix until 6. Add slowly Sodium Chloride while mixing – mix until
uniform. uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 25

BODY SCRUB [KD-92]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl viscosity modifier

0.90
Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glycerin 1.00 solvent

Betaine 1.00 active

SULFOROKAnol
B Sodium Laureth Sulfate 20.00 surfactant
L227/1

C Parfum 0.25 fragrance

Polysorbate 20 ROKwinol 20 0.25 surfactant

D CI 17200 0.0001 colorant

Cellulose Acetate 1.00 abrasive

Phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben,
0.80 preservative
Ethylparaben,
Propylparaben

E Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 4.00 surfactant

Sodium Hydroxide
F 0.40 pH modifier
(30% solution)

APPEARANCE visual method viscous gel

pH 5.0 - 6.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 20°C 15000 - 20000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from the phase A. 4. Add phase D and E – mix until uniform.
Add Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,
5. Add ROKAmina K30 – mix until uniform.
Glycerin, Betaine to Aqua – mix until homogenous
solution is obtained. Homogenise for 2-3 minutes. 6. Add Sodium Hydroxide (30%) if necessary. Mix until
uniform.
2. Add SULFOROKAnol L227/1 – mix until uniform.
3. Prepare phase C, D and E.

26 Shower Gels
Personal Care - Formulation Guide 27
28 Shower Oils & Body Wash Emulsion
Body Treatment

SHOWER OILS
& BODY WASH
EMULSION
Shower oils and body wash emulsions are suitable for dry and very dry
skin. They gently cleanse and at the same time renew the lipid layer of
the skin.

Beautiful fragrance, pleasant consistency, cleansing and moisturizing

properties – these are the features of an ideal shower product. Usually
consumers choose gels or lotions, although shower oils have recently
become very popular on the market.

Shower oils turn into foam which is pleasant to the skin when exposed to
water.

Shower oils and body wash emul-

sions are recommended for sens-
itive skin. They improve elasticity
and strengthens the lipid layer of
the epidermis. The shower oil gen-
tly oils and nourishes the skin.

They are oftently recommended for washing sensitive, dry skin, but in
winter shower oils will be useful for any skin. They grease it well, rebui-
ld protective film strained by winter conditions, prevent moisture loss,
smooth, soften, nourish and strengthen. They are very delicate, so using
them brings a real pleasure.

After bathing, the skin is lightly dry by a towel with no need to lubricate
it with a moisturizer, because it is slightly oily.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 29

SHOWER AND BATH OIL [KD-115]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

MIPA Laureth Sulfate

A SULFOROKAnol L390/1M 15.00 surfactant
(and) Propylene Glycol

Glycine Soja Oil 27.00 emollient

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 26.00 emollient

Tocopheryl Acetate 1.00 active

B Laureth-2 30.00 surfactant

Parfum 1.00 fragrance

slightly yellowish
APPEARANCE visual method
viscous liquid

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 18, speed 10 RPM, T: 25°C 70-120

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A 3. Add ingredients from phase B to phase A while mixing.
and mix until uniform. Mix until uniform.
2. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel
and mix until uniform.

30 Shower Oils & Body Wash Emulsion

MILD BODY WASH EMULSION [KD-80]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 72.55 solvent

Betaine 1.00 active

B Xanthan Gum 0.50 rheology modifier

Glycerin 2.00 solvent

C Cetearyl Alcohol EXOalc 1618 flakes 3.00 emulsion stabilizer

Ceteareth-25 ROKAnol T25 2.00 emulsifier

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 10.00 emollient

Stearic Acid 1.00 rheology modifier

Phenoxyethanol,
D Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 0.80 preservative
Propylparaben

MIPA Laureth Sulfate

SULFOROKAnol L390/1M 2.00 surfactant
(and) Propylene Glycol

E Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 5.00 surfactant

Lactic Acid 0.15 pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 4.8 - 6.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 8000 - 15000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from the phase A. 6. Add C into A, stir well with hand stirring, keep A/B at
75-80°C. Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 90 sec.
2. Add Xanthan Gum to Glycerin – mix until homogenous
solution is obtained. 7. Cool the batch down to 50°C. Add phase D ingredients
while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
3. Add the phase B components to phase A while mixing.
Mix until uniform. 8. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase E ingredients
while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500 RPM, 30 sec.
4. In a separate vesselI combine ingredients from the
phase C.
5. Heat phase A and C to 75-80°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 31

32 Intimate Hygiene Products
Body Treatment

INTIMATE
HYGIENE
The intimate woman place is a unique ecosystem which is inhabited
by over 100 species of microorganisms. Among them are the bacteria,
whose metabolic product like lactic acid protects the vaginal environment
from pathogens. Because of that the pH of intimate area is below 4.5.

A number of factors, can disrupt the balance of the vaginal microbiota

and compromise women’s health. Therefore, the proper care for the
most delicate part of the body should be taken very seriously.

Formulations presented below com-

bine an approriate and well-thought
components of the final formula which
restores the natural pH balance.

Intimate hygiene products provide a gentle care for places requiring

special protecion. The main function which suppose to be fulfiled by
Intimate Hygiene Products are:

• provide a feeling of well-being,

• provide protection from infection,
• be suitable for daily use,
• prevent skin dryness,
• destroy the lipid mantle of the skin,
• neutral and natural composition,
• be without potential ingredients that cause allergies and irritations,
• provide care and regeneration.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 33

GEL FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-01]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 68.00 solvent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 1.00 active

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Lactic Acid 0.50 pH adjuster

B Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 18.00 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 surfactant

C Parfum 0.25 fragrance

D Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 8.75 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method light-yellow gel

pH 4.0- 4.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 7000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 4. Add slowly Coco Betaine while mixing. Mix until uniform.
Mix until uniform.
5. If nessesery, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.0 – 4.5.
2. Add ingredients from phase B. Mix until uniform.
3. Add parfum while mixing. Mix until uniform.

34 Intimate Hygiene Products

GEL FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-02]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 1.00 active

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Lactic Acid q.s pH adjuster

B Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 12.00 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MG / EXOsoft MGB 6.00 surfactant

C Parfum 0.25 fragrance

D Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 9.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method transparent gel

pH 4.0 - 4.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 7000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 3. Add Parfum while mixing. Mix until uniform.
Add ingredients from phase A to warm water (40-45°C).
4. Add slowly Coco Betaine while mixing. Mix until uniform.
Mix until uniform.
5. If necessary, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.0 – 4.5.
2. Add ingredients from phase B. Mix until uniform. Cool
the batch down to at least 30°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 35

GEL FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-03]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 70.65 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 18.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 3.00 surfactant

Betaine 0.50 active

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Coco-Glucoside, surfactant
0.50
Glyceryl Oleate

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Lactic Acid 0.60 pH adjuster

B Parfum 0.25 fragrance

C Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 5.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method transparent gel

pH 4.0 - 4.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6 RPM, T: 25°C 2000 - 7000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 3. Add Coco Betaine while mixing. Mix until uniform.
from phase A to warm water (40-45°C). Mix until
4. If necessary, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.0 – 4.5.
homogenous solution is obtained. Cool the batch
down to at least 30°C.
2. Add parfum while mixing.

36 Intimate Hygiene Products

GEL FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-04]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

MEA Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan M 18.00 surfactant

Magnesium Laureth
EXOsoft MG / EXOsoft MGB 4.00 surfactant
Sulfate

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 surfactant

Decyl Glucoside 0.50 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

B Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 6.00 surfactant

Parfum 0.25 fragrance

C Lactic Acid q.s pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method bright-yellow gel

pH 4.0 - 4.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6 RPM, T: 25°C 2000 - 7000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 3. If necessary, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.0 – 4.5.
from phase A to water (25-30°C). Mix until homogenous
solution is obtained.
2. Add slowly Coco Betaine and parfum while mixing.
Mix until uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 37

GEL FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-05]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MGB 25.00 surfactant

Betaine 2.00 active

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.00 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Coco-Glucoside, surfactant
0.50
Glyceryl Oleate

Lactic Acid q.s. pH adjuster

B Parfum 0.20 fragrance

Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 8.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method transparent gel

pH 4.0 - 4.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.0 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 4000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 3. Add slowly Coco Betaine and Parfum while mixing.
from phase A to water and heat to 50°C. Mix until Mix until uniform.
homogenous solution is obtained.
2. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.

38 Intimate Hygiene Products

GEL FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-06]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 0.50 active

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Lactic Acid q.s. pH adjuster

B Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MGB 24.00 surfactant

PEG-120 Methyl thickener

0.25
Glucose Dioleate

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

C Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 8.00 surfactant

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

D Cocamide DEA, EXOpearl N 1.50 surfactant
Glycol Distearate

APPEARANCE visual method pearly gel

pH 4.0 - 4.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 8000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 3. Add ingredients from phase C and D during mixing.
Add ingredients from phase A to warm water (40-45°C). Mix until uniform.
Mix until uniform.
2. Add ingredients from phase B. Mix until uniform. Cool
the batch down to at least 30°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 39

FOAM FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE [KD-07]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Glycerin 4.00 moisturising agent

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MG / EXOsoft MGB 4.00 surfactant

Disodium Laureth
EXOsoft L3/40 4.00 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

Betaine 0.50 active

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Lactic Acid q.s pH adjuster

B Panthenol 0.10 active

PEG-120 Methyl thickener

0.25
Glucose Dioleate

C Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 2.00 surfactant

Parfum 0.20 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method bright-yellow liquid

pH 4.0 - 4.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 3. Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Parfum during
Add ingredients from phase A to warm water (40-45°C). mixing. Mix until uniform.
Mix until uniform.
4. If nessesery, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.0 – 4.5.
2. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate and Panthenol.
Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.

40 Intimate Hygiene Products

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 41
42 Skin Care Products
Body Treatment

SKIN CARE
PRODUCTS
Skin Care Products are a big group of cosmetics which are available in
many different categories. Generally each skin care product like balm,
moisturiser or lotion should provide to the skin sufficient nourishment
as well as protection.

In the beauty market there are plenty of brands and products to choose
from. Selection of the suitable product should be connnected with the
skin type and it’s compatibility.

In terms of oily skin, light weight lotion are recommended. In case of dry,
mature skin, moisturiser with a thicker consisitency should be chosen.
Night creams will generally be thicker than a day cream.

Skin Care Products are desig-

ned for the body to help keep
the smooth of skin.

Cosmetic companies are coming up with plenty of creative products to

market what is increasing the range of them. Technically, beside of their
different consistency and various names, skin care products like treat-
ment balms, nourishing hand creams, intensive moisturisers and body
lotions have one common goal: to hydrate, treat and repair the dry skin.
Some may have anti-aging effects, others may include skin regenerating
ingredients, but in general they work to protect our skin making it more
supple and smooth.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 43

BB CREAM [KD-77]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

C Polysorbate 60 2.00 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol,
EXOcare TE20 flakes 2.50 emulsifier
Ceteareth-20

Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.00 emulsifier

Paraffinum Liquidum 5.00 emollient

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 UV filter

Octocrylene 3.00 UV filter

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 5.00 emollient

A Aqua 68.316 solvent

Glycerin 2.00 solvent

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 1.00 rheology modifier

B CI 77492, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide 0.11 colorant

CI 77499, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide 0.031 colorant

CI 77891, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide 1.75 colorant

CI 77491, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide 0.043 colorant

D Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.15 rheology modifier

Dimethicone 2.00 emollient

Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00 emollient

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,
E 1.00 preservative
Ethylparaben, Propylparaben

F Sodium Hydroxide 0.10 pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method beige emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

44 Skin Care Products

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 6. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase D
Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 5 min. ingredients while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500
RPM, 90 sec.
2. Add phase B ingredients. Homogenize with 2000-3000
RPM, 5 min. 7. Cool the batch down to 30°C while mixing.
3. In a separate vesselI combine ingredients from phase C, D. 8. Add phase E and F ingredients while mixing. Homogenize
with 2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
4. Heat phase A/B and C to 75-80°C.
5. Add C into A/B while mixing, keep A/B/C at 75-80°C.
Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 45

EYE CREAM [KD-79]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Polysorbate 60 2.00 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol,
ROKAnol TE20 Flakes 3.00 emulsifier
Ceteareth-20

Paraffinum Liquidum 6.00 emollient

Palmitic Acid 1.00 emollient

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, emollient

3.00
Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 5.00 emollient

B Aqua 72.33 solvent

Allantoin 0.10 active

Betaine 4.00 active

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl rheology modifier

0.07
Acrylate Crosspolymer

C Carbomer 0.05 rheology modifier

Dimethicone 2.00 emollient

D Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 pH adjuster

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, preservative

E 0.80
Ethylparaben, Propylparaben

Sodium Polyacrylate, Ethylhexyl rheology modifier

F 0.60
Stearate, Trideceth-6

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

46 Skin Care Products

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase A 5. Add phase D and E ingredients while mixing. Homogenize
and B. NOTE! Add slowly Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 2500-3000 RPM, 90-120 s. NOTE! A 30% Sodium
Crosspolymer while mixing – mix until uniform. Hydroxide solution was used.
2. Heat up to 75-80°C phase A and B. Combine ingredients 6. Add phase E and F ingredients while mixing. Homogenize
from phase C – mix until uniform. 3000-4000 RPM, 90-120 s. Cool the batch down to
25-30°C while mixing.
3. Add the phase B to phase A while mixing. Mix until
uniform. Homogenize 1500-2000 RPM, 90-120 s.
4. Cool the batch down to 60°C while mixing. Add phase
C ingredients while mixing. Homogenize 2000-2500
RPM, 90-120 s.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 47

BODY MILK [KD-78]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.00 emulsifier

Ceteareth-25 ROKAnol T25 1.00 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol EXOalc 1618 2.00 thickener

Paraffinum Liquidum 5.00 emollient

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0.50 emollient

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 4.00 emollient

B Aqua 83.85 solvent

Betaine 0.50 active

C Glycerin 1.00 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.05 rheology modifier

D Carbomer 0.25 rheology modifier

E Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 pH adjuster

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,
F 0.80 preservative
Ethylparaben, Propylparaben

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase A, 5. Add A into B while mixing, keep A/B at 75-80°C.
B and C. Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.
2. Add slowly phase D ingredients to phase B while mixing. 6. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add
Mix until uniform. phase E ingredients while mixing. Homogenize with
2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
3. Add slowly phase C ingredients to phase B while mixing.
Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 90 sec. 7. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase F ingredients
while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
4. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.

48 Skin Care Products

BODY LOTION [KD-82]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 emulsion stabilizer

Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.00 emulsifier

Petrolatum 2.00 emollient

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 1.00 emollient

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 6.00 emollient

Glyceryl Stearate, emulsifier

1.50
PEG-100 Stearate

B Aqua 78.35 solvent

PEG-7/PPG-2 ROKAnol GA7LAW 1.00 emollient

Betaine 2.00 active

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

C Carbomer 0.30 rheology modifier

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 1.00 emollient

Phenoxyethanol,
D Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 1.00 preservative
Propylparaben

E Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 pH adjuster

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a separate vessel combine ingredients from phase 3. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add
A, B and C. Heat the phase A and B to 75-80°C. ingredients from phase C and D while mixing.
Homogenise with 2500-3500 RPM, 120 sec.
2. Add A into B, stir well with hand stirring, keep A/B at
75-80°C. Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec. 4. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase E while
mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500 RPM, 120 sec.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 49

HAND CREAM [KD-83]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Cetearyl Alcohol EXOalc 1618 flakes 4.00 emulsion stabilizer

Glyceryl Stearate, emulsifier

2.00
PEG-100 Stearate

Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.50 emulsifier

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 1.00 emollient

Petrolatum 0.50 emollient

Stearic Acid 1.50 rheology modifier

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 8.00 emollient

B Aqua 58.00 solvent

Betaine 2.00 active

Glycerin 20.00 solvent

Phenoxyethanol,
C Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 1.00 preservative
Propylparaben

D Parfum 0.50 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a separate vesselI combine ingredients from phase 4. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase C
A and B. ingredients while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-3500
RPM, 90 sec.
2. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.
5. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase D ingredients
3. Add A into B while mixing, keep A/B at 75-80°C.
while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-3500 RPM, 30 sec.
Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.

50 Skin Care Products

ECONOMY HAND CREAM [KD-299]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

Cetearyl Alcohol,
A EXOcare TE20 flakes 3.00 emulsion stabilizer
Ceteareth-20

Paraffinum Liquidum 7.00 emollient

Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.50 emulsifier

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10 active

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 2.00 emollient

B Aqua to 100.00 solvent

Allantoin 0.10 active

Glycerin 2.00 solvent

Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.70
Potassium Sorbate

KWAS L(+)- MLEKOWY 80% pH adjuster

Lactic Acid 0.15
E270

C Dimethicone 1.00 emollient

Sodium Polyacrylate, Ethylhexyl rheology modifier

1.00
Stearate, Trideceth-6

D Parfum 0.30 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 5.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase 4. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase
A and B. C ingredients while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500
RPM, 90 sec.
2. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.
5. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase D ingredients
3. Add phase A into phase B while mixing, keep A/B at
while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-3500 RPM, 30 sec.
75-80°C. Homogenize with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 51

NIGHT FACE CREAM [KD-84]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

Glyceryl Stearate, emulsifier

A 2.50
PEG-100 Stearate

Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.00 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol EXOalc 1618 flakes 2.00 emulsion stabilizer

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 4.00 emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 emollient

Stearic Acid 1.00 rheology modifier

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 2.00 emollient

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 1.00 emollient

B Aqua 73.10 solvent

Betaine 5.00 active

C Glycerin 2.00 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.10 rheology modifier

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl rheology modifier

D 0.20
Acrylate Crosspolymer

Phenoxyethanol,
E Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 0.80 preservative
Propylparaben

Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 pH adjuster

F Parfum 0.25 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

52 Skin Care Products

Procedure:
1. In a separate vesselI combine ingredients from phase 4. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.
A and B. 5. Add A into B while mixing, keep A/B at 75-80°C.
2. Add slowly phase D ingredients to phase B while mixing. Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.
Mix until uniform. 6. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase E
3. In a separate vesselI combine ingredients from phase C. ingredients while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-3500
Mix until uniform. Add slowly phase C ingredients to RPM, 90 sec.
phase B while mixing. Homogenise with 2000-3000 7. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase F ingredients
RPM, 90 sec. while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-3500 RPM, 120 sec.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 53

54 Face Care Products
Face Treatment

FACE CARE
PRODUCTS
Face Care Products are basic care cosmetics for every woman. Facial
skin is our business card, that is why we should take care of it as best as
possible. Today’s Face Care Cosmetics are multi-tasking, but they also
meet the needs of skin living under strong oxidative stress, which can
lead to loss of collagen and elastin. There are many types of Face Care
products, so it’s worth knowing their purpose and application.

Selecting the best quality ingre-

dients provides gentle, moisturi-
zing, anti-wrinkle properties de-
livered to the skin.

Face Care products should first and foremost be chosen according to

the needs of the skin and age. Currently, the use of multifunctional face
care cosmetics which are suitable for day and night use is moving away.

During the day, our skin has different needs than at night, hence the
need to use a different day and night care products. The face care pro-
ducts for the day have a protective function against harmful external
factors. The consistency of the day cosmetic is much lighter than the
night one. Many day cosmteics also have a small UV filter that protects
from sunlight. The night cosmetic is designed to regenerate and nourish
the face. The skin regenerates quickly at night, which is why the cosme-
tic applied during the evening care ritual should contain many nutrients.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 55

DEEPLY CLEANSING GEL FOR SKIN FACE [ST-02]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 49.00 solvent

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl viscosity modifier

1.00
Acrylate Crosspolymer

B Aqua 14.00 solvent

Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate ROKAtend GL 10.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 20.00 surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 3.40 surfactant

C Parfum 0.40 fragrance

Propylene Glycol 1.00 solvent

Benzyl Alcohol,
Ethylhexylglycerin, 1.00 preservative
Tocopherol

D Sodium Hydroxide 0.20 pH modifier

clear, viscous gel with

APPEARANCE visual method
suspended air bubbles

pH 5.5 - 6.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 15000 - 20000

STABILITY 1 month st 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Pour the warm deionized water (40-50°C) in to the 3. Add phase B to phase A. Mix until homogenous solution
main vessel and add the Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is obtained. Cool the batch down to 30°C.
Crosspolymer. Start mixing when the polymer is com-
4. When the batch temperature is around 30°C, add pre-
pletely wetted. Mix until the homogenous solution is
servative, Propylene Glycol and fragrance. Mix for 20
obtained.
minutes with slow agitation.
2. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel.
5. Readjust the final pH to 5.5 - 6.5 with addition of
Heat up to 60°C with gentle agitation. Mix until homo-
Sodium Hydroxide (30%) if necessary.
genous solution is obtained.

56 Face Care Products

MILD EMULSION FOR SKIN FACE [ST-03]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Paraffinum Liquidum 1.50 emollient

Butyrospermum Parkii emollient

0.50
(Shea Butter)

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.00 emollient

Glyceryl Stearate, emulsifier

3.00
PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 co-emulsifier

B Aqua 25.30 solvent

C Xanthan Gum 0.40 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 1.30 moisturising agent

Aqua 50.20 solvent

D Citric Acid 0.10 pH modifier

Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate ROKAtend GL 5.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 7.70 surfactant

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 1.00 preservative
Propylparaben

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 6.5 - 7.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 6.0 RPM, T: 25°C 5000 - 10000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel heat all ingredients to 75-80°C and Gum, Glycerin and warm water (50°C). To obtain
do the same with phase B. homogenous solution, homogenize for 1 min.
2. Pour the hot water form phase B into phase A, mix 4. Combine ingredients from the phase D and mix until
well (avoid cooling) and homogenise for 5 minutes. uniform. If necessary, add Citric Acid.
Then, start cooling the formulation and repeat homo-
5. Add phase D and B to main vessel (phase A) and mix
genization at 60°C. Do the same at 40°C.
for 5 min, then homogonise for 1 min.
3. At the same time, prepare phase C by mixing Xanthan

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 57

FOAMING FACE WASH [ST-04]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 48.20 solvent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.50 re-oiling agent

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 34.70 surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 9.70 surfactant

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Ehylhexyl Glycerine, preservative

1.00
Phenoxyethanol

Propylene Glycol 2.50 solvent

Cocamide DEA ROKAmid KAD 0.50 surfactant

Citric acid 0.40 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method clear, colorless liquid

pH 6.0 - 7.5

STABILITY 1 month st 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the warm water (40-50°C). 3. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Citric Acid.
Mix until uniform. Mix well after adjustment.
2. Then, cool the mixture down to room temperature
before adding a preservative and add the rest of
ingredients.

58 Face Care Products

TWO PHASE FOAMING FACE WASH [ST-05]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 38.40 solvent

Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate ROKAtend GL 10.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 30.00 surfactant

Propylene Glycol 3.00 solvent

Parfum 0.60 fragrance

Ehylhexyl Glycerine, preservative

1.00
Phenoxyethanol

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.60 re-oiling agent

Mineral Oil 15.00 emollient

Citric Acid 0.40 pH modifier

clear colorless liquid

APPEARANCE visual method
(water phase)

pH 6.0 - 7.5 (water phase)

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the warm water 3. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Citric Acid.
(40-50°C). Mix until uniform. Mix well after adjustment.
2. Then, cool the mixture down to room temperature 4. Add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity. NOTE.
before adding a preservative and add the rest of Add salt (not in one go) – after addition of each portion
ingredients. mix well.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 59

MILD PEARLING GEL FOR SKIN FACE [ST-06]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 45.90 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.65 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.60
Potassium Sorbate

B Aqua 15.70 solvent

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MGB 20.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 10.00 surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 3.40 surfactant

C Citric Acid 0.25 pH modifier

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

Cocamide DEA, EXOpearl N 1.00 pearling agent
Glycol Distearate

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method viscous pearling gel

pH 4.8 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 4.0 RPM, T: 25°C 6000 - 9000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 3. Add phase B to phase A. Mix until homogenous solution
Add Xanthan Gum to Glycerin - mix until homogenous is obtained. Cool the batch down to 30°C.
solution is obtained. Add warm water (40-50°C) and
4. Adjust pH to 4.8 – 5.5 by using Citric Acid. Mix well
preservative. Mix until homogenous solution is obtained.
after adjustment.
Homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
5. Add ingredients from phase C. Mix until homogenous
2. Combine ingredients from phase B. Add ingredients
solution is obtained.
from phase B to warm water (40-45°C). Mix until
homogenous solution is obtained.

60 Face Care Products

MILD GEL TO SKIN FACE WASHING [KD-61]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 50.00 solvent

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl rheology modifier

0.85
Acrylate Crosspolymer

B Aqua up to 100 solvent

Disodium Laureth
EXOsoft L3/40 5.00 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.00 surfactant

Betaine 1.00 active

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

CI 42090 q.s. colorant

Benzophenone-4 0.05 UV filter

Phenoxyethanol, preservative
C 1.00
Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Sodium Hydroxide 0.50 pH adjuster

clear, blue viscous gel with

APPEARANCE visual method
suspended air bubbles

pH 5.0 - 6.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Pour the warm deionized water (40-50°C) in to the 3. Add phase B to phase A. Mix until homogenous solution
main vessel and add the Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate is obtained. Cool the batch down to 30°C.
Crosspolymer. Start mixing when the polymer is
4. When the batch temperature is 30°C, add preservative,
completely wetted. Mix until the homogenous solution
fragrance and Sodium Hydroxide. Mix for 20 minutes
is obtained.
with slow agitation.
2. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel.
5. Readjust the final pH to 5.0 – 6.0 with addition of
Heat up to 30°C with gentle agitation. Mix until homo-
Sodium Hydroxide (30%) if necessary.
genous solution is obtained.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 61

GEL FOR WASHING SKIN FACE [KD-62]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
A 0.90 rheology modifier
Acrylate Crosspolymer

Aqua 40.00 solvent

B Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L270/1 7.00 surfactant

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MG / EXOsoft MGB 4.00 surfactant

Betaine 2.00 active

PEG-75 Lanolin ROKAnol LN75/50 1.00 surfactant

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

CI 17200 q.s. colorant

Benzophenone-4 0.05 UV filter

Phenoxyethanol,
C 1.00 preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 3.00 surfactant

D Sodium Hydroxide q.s pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method pink gel

pH 5.0 - 6.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 18000 - 22000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Pour the deionized water (25-30°C) into the main 3. Add slowly phase B to phase A while mixing. Mix until
vessel and add the Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate uniform.
Crosspolymer. Start mixing when the polymer is
4. Add Preservative, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Parfum
completely wetted. Mix until the homogenous solution
while mixing. Mix until uniform.
is obtained. Homogenise for 1-2 minutes.
2. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel.
Heat up to 40-45°C with gentle agitation. Mix until
homogenous solution is obtained.

62 Face Care Products

CREAMY FACE SCRUB [KD-91]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.50 emulsifier

Ceteareth-25 ROKAnol T25 0.50 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol EXOalc 1618 flakes 3.00 emulsion stabilizer

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 6.00 emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.00 emollient

Helianthus Annuus emollient

5.00
Seed Oil

Butyrospermum emollient
0.50
Parkii Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20 active

B Aqua 73.68 solvent

Betaine 1.00 active

Glycerin 4.00 solvent

Pentylene Glycol 2.00 solvent

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.10 rheology modifier

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl rheology modifier

C 0.27
Acrylate Crosspolymer

Phenoxyethanol,
D Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 0.50 preservative
Propylparaben

Sodium Hydroxide 0.10 pH adjuster

E Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Cellulose acetate 0.35 abrasive

emulsion with scrub

APPEARANCE visual method
particles

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 63

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from the phase B. 4. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.
Add Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine to the water.
5. Add A into B, while mixing, keep A/B at 75-80°C.
Add Magnesium Aluminum Silicate while mixing. Mix
Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.
for 10 min - 150-200 RPM. Homogenise with 2000-
3000 RPM, 5-6 min. 6. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase
D ingredients while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-
2. Add Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
3000 RPM, 120 sec.
while mixing. Mix for 10 min - 100-150 RPM. Homogenise
with 700-1000 RPM, 60-90 sec. 7. Cool the batch down to 25°C while mixing.

3. In a separate vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 8. Add Parfum and abrasive while mixing. Mix until uniform.

64 Face Care Products

FACE MASK [KD-120]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 2.00 emulsifier

Ceteareth-25 ROKAnol T25 0.50 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol EXOalc 1618 flakes 3.00 emulsion stabilizer

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 5.00 emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 emollient

Glycine Soja Oil 2.50 emollient

Stearic Acid 1.00 rheology modifier

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 active

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 1.00 emollient

B Aqua 71.50 solvent

Pentylene Glycol 2.50 solvent

Betaine 1.00 active

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 1.00 rheology modifier

C Kaolin 3.00 absorbent

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, preservative

0.50
Ethylparaben, Propylparaben

APPEARANCE visual method slightly gray emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from the phase B. 4. Add A into B, while mixing, keep A/B at 75-80°C.
Add Pentylene Glycol, Betaine to the water. Add Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate while mixing. Homogenise
5. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase C
with 2000-3000 RPM, 5-6 min.
ingredients while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-
2. In a separate vessel combine ingredients from the 3500 RPM, 120 sec.
phase A.
6. Cool the batch down to 25°C.
3. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 65

66 Make Up Removers & Micellar Fluids
Face Treatment

MAKE UP
REMOVERS &
MICELLAR FLUIDS
Eye Make-up Remover and micellar fluid products are intended to help
easily remove make-up that has been applied. They help to remove the
applied color and to make sure it easily wipes off using a tissue.

Ideally, we should remove our

make-up not only before going
to bed but refresh it after wake
up. In the morning, it helps to get
rid of perspiration and sebum ac-
cumulated on the skin overnight.

Makeup removal should be part of our daily skin care ritual because it is
healthy for skin.

The specific benefits of make-up removers are:

• washes away cosmetics, impurities and dirt from the surface of our
skin, which could lead to irritation or cause our skin to age more rapidly
• reduces the risk of developing pimples, redness, blackheads and other
types of blemishes
• promotes cellular renewal by eliminating dead skin
• stimulates skin’s microcirculation due to the massage action
• lets our skin breathe

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 67

MICELLAR CLEANSING FLUID [DEM-01]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 85.46 solvent

PEG-7/PPG-2 surfactant
ROKAnol GA7LAW 3.00
Propylheptyl Ether

PEG-40 Hydrogenated surfactant

ROKAcet HR40 4.00
Castor Oil

Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Propylene Glycol 6.00 solvent

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Sodium Benzoate, preservative

0.50
Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid 0.04 pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method clear colorless liquid

pH 4.8 - 5.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Heat up the water to 40-50°C and add the ingredients
one after another in order from the table above.
2. Before adding a parfum cool down the mixture to room
temperature and add the rest of ingredients.
3. Add Citric Acid if necessary.

68 Make Up Removers & Micellar Fluids

MAKE-UP REMOVING LIQUID [KD-70]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 92.85 solvent

Betaine 0.10 active

Glycerin 3.00 moisturising agent

Citric Acid 0.05 pH adjuster

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 2.00 surfactant

Phenoxyethanol, preservative
B 1.00
Ethylhexylglycerin

Propylene Glycol 1.00 solvent

APPEARANCE visual method transparent liquid

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A 4. Add phase B to phase A and mix well.
and heat up to 65-70°C.
5. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C while mixing.
2. Combine ingredients from phase B in a separate vessel
and mix until uniform.
3. Cool the batch down to at least 50°C while mixing.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 69

MAKE-UP REMOVING LIQUID [KD-71]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 92.94 solvent

Betaine 0.25 active

B Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Xanthan Gum 0.05 rheology modifier

C Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 4.00 surfactant

D Polysorbate 20 ROKwinol 20 0.20 surfactant

Phenoxyethanol, preservative
1.00
Ethylhexylglycerin

Propylene Glycol 0.50 solvent

E Citric Acid 0.06 pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method transparent liquid

pH 5.0 - 6.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A and 4. Combine ingredients from phase D in a separate vessel
heat up to 65-70°C. and mix until uniform.
2. Add Xanthan Gum to Glycerin - mix until uniform. Add 5. Add ingredients from phase C, D and E to phase A
phase B to phase A while mixing. Mix until uniform. while mixing. Mix until uniform.
3. Cool the batch down to at least 50°C.

70 Make Up Removers & Micellar Fluids

MAKE-UP REMOVING LIQUID [KD-72]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 87.55 solvent

Pentylene Glycol 4.00 solvent

Methylparaben 0.15 preservative

Ethylparaben 0.15 preservative

Betaine 0.10 active

Glycerin 4.00 moisturising agent

B Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 4.00 surfactant

C Citric Acid 0.05 pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method transparent liquid

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 2. Add Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate. Mix until uniform.
from phase A to hot water (75-80°C). Mix until homo- Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.
genous solution is obtained. Cool the batch down to
3. If necessary, adjust pH by Citric Acid to 5.0 – 7.0.
at least 50°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 71

MAKE-UP REMOVING LIQUID [KD-73]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 87.85 solvent

Betaine 0.10 active

Glycerin 5.00 moisturising agent

Phenoxyethanol,
B 1.00 preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 2.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 4.00 surfactant

E Citric Acid 0.05 pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method transparent liquid

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 2. Add ingredients from phase B. Mix until uniform. Cool
from phase A to hot water (75-80°C). Mix until homo- the batch down to at least 30°C.
genous solution is obtained. Cool the batch down to
3. If necessary, adjust pH by Citric Acid to 5.0 – 7.0.
at least 50°C.

72 Make Up Removers & Micellar Fluids

MAKE-UP REMOVING MILK [KD-85]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Ceteareth-12 ROKAnol T12 1.00 emulsifier

Ceteareth-25 ROKAnol T25 1.00 emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 emulsion stabiliser

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 5.00 emollient

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 1.00 emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00 emollient

B Aqua 83.35 solvent

Betaine 0.50 active

C Glycerin 1.00 moisturising agent

Xanthan Gum 0.05 rheology modifier

D Carbomer 0.25 rheology modifier

E Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 pH adjuster

Phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 0.80 preservative
Propylparaben

PEG-7/PPG-2
F ROKAnol GA7LAW 2.00 solvent
Propylheptyl ether

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a separate vesselI combine ingredients from phase 5. Add A into B, stir well with hand stirring, keep A/B at
A, B and C. 75-80°C. Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 120 sec.
2. Add slowly phase D ingredients to phase B while mixing. 6. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase E
Mix until uniform. ingredients while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-
3500 RPM, 90 sec.
3. Add slowly phase C ingredients to phase B while mixing.
Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 90 sec. 7. Cool the batch down to 25°C. Add phase F ingredients
while mixing. Homogenise with 2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
4. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 73

74 Shaving Products
Face Treatment

SHAVING
PRODUCTS
Shaving products are intended to be used to assist in the removal of
unwanted body hair. Those products have to guarantee the ease and
effective shaving for both women and men. Cosmetic category called
“shaving products” beside of typical shaving product include cosmetics
such as shaving soaps and creams as well as pre- and after shaving lo-
tions.

Shaving products are oftenly dispensed as an aerosol foam or gel that

produces a lather when rubbed on the skin. Shaving Creams typical-
ly contain ingredients that help lubricate the skin so that the razor can
work effectively.

In every shaving cream formulation,

each ingredient plays a role, howe-
ver some ingredients are essential,
others only have a minor effect.

The performance of the cream serves as the ultimate test for the formu-
lation and indicates whether the correct blend of ingredients and con-
centrations has been used. In addition, shaving creams often contain
ingredients including: botanicals, essential oil derivatives, chelators, pre-
servatives and other chemicals. Besides modulating performance, these
ingredients can add antiseptic qualities, serve as skin toners, increase
shelf life, etc. but more importantly, they make each formulation unique.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 75

AFTER SHAVING MOISTURIZING GEL [KD-101]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
0.40 rheology modifier
Acrylate Crosspolymer

Betaine 2.00 active

CI 42090 q.s. colorant

B Sodium Hydroxide 0.15 pH adjuster

C Parfum 0.30 fragrance

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 3.00 emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00 emollient

Starch Hydroxypropyl
0.10 conditioner
Trimonium Chloride

Phenoxyethanol,
0.80 preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin

APPEARANCE visual method blue opaque gel

pH 4.5 - 5.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a separate vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 2. Homogenise with 2000-3000 RPM, 90-120 sec.
Add slowly Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
3. Add phase C ingredients while mixing. Homogenise
to water while mixing. Mix until uniform. Add other
with 2000-3000 RPM, 90-120 sec.
phase A components.

76 Shaving Products
AFTER SHAVE LOTION [KD-144]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

Cetearyl Alcohol,
A ROKAnol TE20 Flakes 3.50 emulsifier
Ceteareth-20

Paraffinum Liquidum 3.00 emollient

Dimethicone 0.50 emollient

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 4.00 emollient

B Aqua 83.20 solvent

Betaine 2.00 active

Glycerin 1.00 solvent

Allantoin 0.20 active

C Carbomer 0.20 rheology modifier

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 1.00 emollient

D Sodium Hydroxide 0.15 pH adjuster

Phenoxyethanol,
E 0.90 preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin

F Parfum 0.35 fragrance

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase 4. Cool the batch down to 30°C while mixing.
A and B. Heat up to 75-80°C
5. Add phase D and F while mixing. Homogenize with
2. Add pharse A to phase B while mixing. Homogenize 2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
60-90 sec. In a separate vessel combine ingredients
from phase C. Mix until uniform.
3. Cool the batch down to 50°C while mixing. Add phase
C ingredients while mixing. Homogenize with 2500-
3500 RPM, 90 sec.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 77

AFTER SHAVE LOTION [KD-147]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

Cetearyl Alcohol,
A ROKAnol TE20 Flakes 4.00 emulsifier
Ceteareth-20

Glycine Soja Oil 1.00 emollient

Dimethicone 1.00 emollient

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 2.00 emollient

B Aqua 83.80 solvent

Betaine 1.00 active

Allantoin 0.10 active

C Carbomer 0.20 rheology modifier

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 0.50 emollient

Cyclopentasiloxane 1.00 emollient

D Sodium Hydroxide 0.10 pH adjuster

Phenoxyethanol,
E 0.80 preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin

Aluminum Starch
F 1.00 absorbent
Octenylsuccinate

F Parfum 0.50 fragrance

G Alcohol 3.00 solvent

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 7.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase 4. Cool the batch down to 40-50°C while mixing. Add
A and B. Heat up to 75-80°C phase D, E and F ingredients while mixing. Homogenize
with 2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec. Cool the batch down to
2. Add phase A to phase B while mixing. Homogenize
30°C while mixing.
60-90 sec. In a separate vessel combine ingredients
from phase C. Mix until uniform. 5. Add phase F and G while mixing. Homogenize with
2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.
3. Cool the batch down to 60°C while mixing. Add phase
C and D ingredients while mixing. Homogenize with
2500-3500 RPM, 90 sec.

78 Shaving Products
Personal Care - Formulation Guide 79
80 Shampoos & Conditioners
Hair Treatment

SHAMPOOS &
CONDITIONERS
Shampoo is a basic hair care product representing the largest segment
of hair care cosmetics. Typically, hair products are in the form of a visco-
us liquid, that is used for cleaning hair with some exception of waterless
solid form such as bar.

Shampoo is used by applying it to wet hair, massaging the product into

the hair, and then rinsing it out. Some consumers may follow a shampo-
oing with the use of products called 2 in 1. Conditioning shampoos, were
introduced to global markets in the late 1980s. A conditioning shampoo
is designed to deposit conditioning actives on hair while washing off dirt
at the same time.

The typical reason of using shampoo is to cleansing scalp, environmen-

tal dust, residues of hair care products and to remove the unwanted
build-up of sebum in the hair. Most of the dirt including sebum are water
insoluble and cannot be effectively removed by water alone. Therefore,
a shampoo contain a combination of surfactants. The content of surfa-
ctants in a shampoo is typically between 10% - 20%.

Formulated shampoos are designed

to target every hair & lifestyle need
by nourishing, strengthening and
repairing hair with a variety of ingre-
-dients from natural to synthetic.

Specialty shampoos are design to people with dandruff, color-treated

hair, gluten or wheat allergies, an interest in using an organic product,
and infants and young children.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 81

CLASSIC SHAMPOO [SZ-01]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 37.95 solvent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 2.00 re-oiling agent

Polyquaternium 7 2.50 conditioning agent

Disodium Laureth
EXOsoft L3/40 4.00 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 30.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl
ROKAtend LS 15.00 surfactant
Sarcosinate

B Citric Acid 0.05 pH modifier

PEG-120 Methyl
C 1.00 thickening agent
Glucose Dioleate

D Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Ehylhexyl Glycerine,
1.00 preservative
Phenoxyethanol

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 4.50 surfactant

E Sodium Chloride 1.50 viscosity modifier

APPEARANCE visual method turbid gel

pH 5.0 - 7.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 20°C 1500 - 5000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the hot water (70-75°C). 5. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate during mixing.
Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 35°C.
2. While mixing add ingredients one after another in the
order from the table above. Mix until uniform. 6. Add fragrance, preservative and Cocamidopropyl Betaine
during mixing. Mix until uniform.
3. Cool the batch down to at least 50°C.
4. Control pH range. If necessary, adjust pH by Citric Acid
to 5.0 – 7.0.

82 Shampoos & Conditioners

PEARL SHAMPOO [SZ-02]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 39.89 solvent

Citric Acid 0.06 pH modifier

Polyquaternium 10 0.15 conditioning agent

Disodium Laureth
EXOsoft L3/40 2.50 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 30.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 15.00 surfactant

B PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 1.50 re-oiling agent

PEG-120 Methyl
1.00 thickening agent
Glucose Dioleate

C Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Ehylhexyl Glycerine,
1.00 preservative
Phenoxyethanol

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.00 surfactant

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

D Cocamide DEA, EXOpearl N 1.00 pearling agent
Glycol Distearate

E Sodium Chloride 1.40 viscosity modifier

APPEARANCE visual method viscous, pearl gel

pH 5.0 - 7.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 6000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Add ingredients from phase A to the hot water (70-75°C). 4. Add fragrance, Cocamidopropyl Betaine and preservative
While mixing add ingredients one after another in the during mixing. Mix until uniform.
order from the table above. Mix until uniform. NOTE.
5. Add pearling agent. Mix until uniform.
Add Polyquaternium-10 and mix untill homogenous
liquid is obtained. Add the rest of the phase A components. 6. Add NaCl to adjust the viscosity. NOTE. Add salt (not
in one go) – after addition of each portion mix well.
2. Cool the batch down to at least 50°C.
7. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Citric Acid.
3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate and PEG-7
Mix well after adjustment.
Glyceryl Cocoate during mixing. Mix until uniform.
Cool the batch down to at least 35°C. 8. Control the viscosity if necessary, add Sodium Chloride.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 83

SHAMPOO FOR DAMAGED AND FRAGILE HAIR [SZ-03]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 46.62 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.75 viscosity modifier

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Microcrystalline Cellulose 0.50 viscosity modifier

B Aqua 13.00 solvent

Citric Acid 0.20 pH modifier

Polyquaternium 10 0.03 conditioning agent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 2.00 re-oiling agent

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan A 10.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 20.00 surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 3.50 surfactant

C Parfum 0.40 fragrance

Ehylhexyl glycerine,
1.00 preservative
Phenoxyethanol

APPEARANCE visual method viscosus milky gel

pH 5.0 - 7.0

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 3.0 RPM, T: 25°C 9000 - 11000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from the phase A. Add the rest of the phase B components. Mix until uni-
Add Xanthan Gum to Glycerin - mix until homogenous form.
solution is obtained. Add warm water (50-55°C) and
3. Add phase B to phase A. Mix until homogenous solution
Microcrystalline Cellulose. Mix until homogenous solution
is obtained. Cool the batch down to 30°C.
is obtained. Homogenise for 2-3 minutes.
4. When the batch temperature is 30°C, add parfum and
2. Combine ingredients from the phase B. During mixing
preservative. Mix until uniform.
add Citric Acid and Polyquaternium-10 to warm water
(50-60°C). Mix until homogenous solution is obtained.

84 Shampoos & Conditioners

MILD BRIGHT-GREEN SHAMPOO [SZ-05]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Benzophenone-4 0.05 UV absorber

CI 19140 q.s. colorant

CI 42090 q.s. colorant

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol A325/1 35.00 surfactant

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan A 15.00 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate,
0.60 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Citric Acid q.s. pH modifier

B Aqua 1.50 solvent

Citric Acid 0.01 pH modifier

Polyquaternium 10 0.02 conditioning agent

C Parfum 0.50 fragrance

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 5.00 surfactant

Sodium Chloride 1.80 viscosity modifier

bright-green clear
APPEARANCE visual method liquid

pH 4.7 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 2000 - 5000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. During mixing add Citric Acid and polyquaternium-10 4. Add parfum and Cocamidopropyl Betaine during mixing.
to warm water (40-45°C). Mix until homogenous solution Mix until homogenous solution is obtained.
is obtained.
5. If necessary, add Sodium Chloride to adjust the viscosity.
2. Add ingredients from phase A to warm water (40-45°C).
6. Control pH range – if necessary, add Citric Acid. Mix well
While mixing add ingredients one after another in the
after adjustment.
order from the table above. Mix until uniform.
3. Add phase B to phase A. Mix until homogenous solution is
obtained. Cool the batch down to 35°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 85

2 IN 1 SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER [KD-131]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 12.00 surfactant

Zinc Coceth Sulfate EXOsoft ZN 20.00 surfactant

Polyquaternium-7 1.00 film forming

Aqua, Sodium Benzoate,

B 0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Allantoin 0.01 active

CI 77891, Mica 0.01 colorant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose

1.00 thickener
Dioleate

C Glycerin 0.45 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.20 rheology modifier

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

D Cocamide DEA, Glycol EXOpearl N 1.00 surfactant
Distearate

E Parfum 0.50 fragrance

F Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 6.00 surfactant

G Sodium Chloride 0.50 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method pearling gel

pH 4.7 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 3.0 RPM, T: 25°C 5000 - 12000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, -5/40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A – mix 4. Add phase C ingredients while mixing – mix until uniform.
until uniform (cloudy solution). In a separate vessel
5. Add phase D-F ingredients while mixing – mix until
combine ingredients from phase C – mix until uniform.
uniform.
2. Prepare the remaining ingredients in separate beakers.
6. Add slowly Sodium Chloride while mixing – mix until
3. Add ingredients from phase B – mix until uniform. uniform.

86 Shampoos & Conditioners

HAIR CONDITIONER [KD-136]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 84.195 solvent

Cetrimonium Chloride 3.00 conditioning agent

Glycerin 1.00 solvent

Betaine 2.00 active

Cetearyl Alcohol,
B EXOcare TE20 flakes 5.00 emulsifier
Ceteareth-20

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 2.00 emollient

Glycine Soja Oil 0.50 emollient

C Dimethicone 1.00 emollient

Phenoxyethanol,
Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, 1.00 preservative
Propylparaben

D Parfum 0.30 fragrance

E Sodium Hydroxide 0.005 pH adjuster

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 5.0 - 6.0

VISCOSITY [cP] –

STABILITY 1 month in 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase A and 4. Cool down batch to 30°C while mixing. Add the other
B. Heat up to 75-80°C. Add phase B to phase A while mixing. ingredients while mixing. Homogenize with 1500-
2000 RPM, 90-120 sec.
2. Homogenize with 1500-2000 RPM, 90-120 sec.
3. Cool down batch to 70°C while mixing. Add C ingre-
dients while mixing. Homogenize with 1500-2000
RPM, 90-120 sec.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 87

88 Products Dedicated To Babies
Other

PRODUCTS
DEDICATED
TO BABIES
The skin of infants, babies and children require special treatment. Each
product form this category has to be developed in a way to support
the natural functions of the skin. Carefully selected ingredients work to-
gether and strengthen each other, making cosmetics very effective in
contact with even the most delicate, sensitive and problematic skin.

Babies, just like grown-ups, are expo-

sed to many chemicals via personal care
products throughout the day including
sunscreens, ointments, oils, shampoos
and soaps. Many of these products are
easily absorbed through the skin into
the blood stream, and babies are at least
ten times more vulnerable to the chemi-
cals in these products than adults.

Cosmetic products dedicated to babies must be safe for the health of in-
fants and should only contain ingredients that are non-toxic; potent aller-
gens or substances with endocrine disrupting activity should not be present
and preservatives should be used at their lowest effective concentrations.
Detailed recommendations for baby creams and lotions were agreed by
experts in the field to provide guidance to manufacturers and safety asses-
sors.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 89

MILD BABY SHAMPOO WITHOUT SALT
ADDITION [SZ-06]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Benzoate,
0.60 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MGB 17.70 surfactant

PEG-75 Lanolin ROKAnol LN75/50 1.00 moisturising agent

MEA Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan M 10.00 surfactant

PEG-120 Methyl
B 1.50 thickening agent
Glucose Dioleate

C Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.50 surfactant

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Citric acid q.s. pH modifier

APPEARANCE visual method clear, light-yellow gel

pH 5.0 - 5.5

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 1500 - 5000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 4. Add parfum and Cocamidopropyl Betaine during
from phase A to warm water (55-60°C). Mix until mixing. Mix until uniform.
homogenous solution is obtained.
5. If necessary, adjust pH by Citric Acid to 5.0 – 5.5.
2. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate during mixing.
Mix until uniform.
3. Cool the batch down to 35°C.

90 Products Dedicated To Babies

WASHING & BATHING LIQUD [2 in 1] FOR
INFANTS [KD-21]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 79.90 solvent

Xanthan Gum 0.80 rheology modifier

Glycerin 3.00 moisturising agent

B Lactic Acid 0.30 pH adjuster

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 2.00 active

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 5.00 surfactant

Panthenol 0.50 active

C Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 8.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method transparent, viscous gel

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 9000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from the phase A. 3. When the batch temperature is 35°C, add Cocami-
Add Xanthan Gum to Glycerin - mix until homogenous dopropyl Betaine during mixing. Mix until uniform.
solution is obtained. Add warm water (50-55°C). Mix
4. Control the pH range – if necessary, add Lactic Acid.
until homogenous solution is obtained. Homogenise
Mix well after adjustment.
for 2-3 minutes.
2. Add the phase B components. Mix until uniform. Cool
the batch down to 35°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 91

WASHING & BATHING LIQUD [2 in 1] FOR
INFANTS [KD-22]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 82.25 solvent

Lauryl Glucoside 2.00 surfactant

Betaine 1.00 active

Glycerin 4.00 moisturising agent

Lactic Acid 0.50 pH adjuster

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

B Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 4.00 surfactant

Panthenol 0.25 active

PEG-120 Methyl
C 0.50 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

D Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 5.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method hazy, viscosus gel

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 9000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate while mixing.
from phase A to warm water (55-60°C). Mix until Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.
homogenous solution is obtained. Cool the batch
4. Add Cocoamidopropyl Betaine while mixing. Mix until
down to at least 50°C.
uniform.
2. Add ingredients from phase B durin mixing. Mix until
uniform.

92 Products Dedicated To Babies

WASHING & BATHING GEL FOR INFANTS [KD-23]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 84.20 solvent

Lauryl Glucoside 4.00 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Lactic Acid 0.30 pH adjuster

Disodium Laureth
B EXOsoft L3/40 2.00 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

Coco-Glucoside,
0.50 surfactant
Glyceryl Oleate

PEG-120 Methyl
C 0.50 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

D Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.00 surfactant

bright-yellow,
APPEARANCE visual method viscous gel

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 2000 - 8000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 4. Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine during mixing. Mix until
from phase A to warm water (55-60°C). Mix until uniform.
homogenous solution is obtained. Cool the batch
5. If necessary, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.8 – 5.3.
down to at least 50°C.
2. Add ingredients from phase B. Mix until uniform.
3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate during mixing.
Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 93

HAIR & BODY WASHING FOAM FOR CHILDREN [KD-25]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 89.10 solvent

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 0.50 active

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Disodium Laureth
B EXOsoft L3/40 5.50 surfactant
Sulfosuccinate

PEG-120 Methyl
C 0.25 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

D Lactic Acid 0.15 pH adjuster

Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 2.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method transparent liquid

pH 5.0 - 5.5

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 4. Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine during mixing. Mix until
from phase A to warm water (45-50°C). Mix until uniform.
homogenous solution is obtained.
5. Readjust the final pH to 5.0 - 6.5 with additional Lactic
2. Add Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate during mixing. Acid.
Mix until uniform.
3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate during mixing.
Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.

94 Products Dedicated To Babies

BATHING LIQUID FOR INFANTS [KD-26]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Lauryl Glucoside 2.00 surfactant

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Betaine 0.50 active

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Lactic Acid q.s pH adjuster

B Magnesium Laureth Sulfate EXOsoft MG / EXOsoft MGB 12.00 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

PEG-120 Methyl
0.80 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

D Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method light-yellow liquid

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 10 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 3000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 3. Add Cocoamidopropyl Betaine during mixing. Mix
from phase A to warm water (50-55°C). Mix until until uniform.
homogenous solution is obtained. Cool the batch
down to at least 50°C.
2. Add ingredients from phase B while mixing. Mix until
uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 95

BATHING & WASHING LIQUID FOR INFANTS [KD-27]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 71.35 solvent

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Lactic Acid 0.35 pH adjuster

B Ammonium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol A325/1 15.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 3.00 surfactant

Coco-Glucoside,
C 1.00 surfactant
Glyceryl Oleate

PEG-120 Methyl
0.80 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

D Coco Betaine ROKAmina K30B 6.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method light-yellow liquid

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 3000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 3. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate and Coco-
from phase A to warm water (50-55°C). Mix until Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate during mixing. Mix until
homogenous solution is obtained. uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.
2. Add ingredients from phase B durin mixing. Mix until 4. Add slowly Coco Betaine during mixing. Mix until
uniform. uniform.

96 Products Dedicated To Babies

BATHING & WASHING LIQUID FOR CHILDREN FROM
3 YEARS OLD [KD-33]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 76.90 solvent

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 0.50 active

Glycerin 2.00 moisturising agent

Decyl Glucoside 1.00 surfactant

B MEA Lauryl Sulfate ROSULfan M 10.00 surfactant

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

C Polysorbate 20 ROKwinol 20 0.30 surfactant

Parfum 0.30 fragrance

D Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 8.00 surfactant

APPEARANCE visual method light-yellow gel

pH 4.8 - 5.2

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 4000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 4. Add phase C to the main vessel while mixing. Mix until
from phase A to water (30-35°C). Mix until homogenous uniform.
solution is obtained. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.
5. Add Cocoamidopropyl Betaine while mixing. Mix until
2. Add ingredients from phase B. Mix until uniform. uniform.
3. Combine ingredients from phase C in a separate vessel. 6. If necessary, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.8 – 5.2.
Add Parfum to Polysorbate 20 - mix until uniform.

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 97

BATHING LIQUID FOR CHILDREN FROM 3 YEARS
OLD [KD-35]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 71.85 solvent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol L227/1 13.00 surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate ROKAtend LS 3.00 surfactant

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Glycerin 3.00 moisturising agent

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

Lactic Acid 0.25 pH adjuster

PEG-120 Methyl
B 0.50 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

C Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30 6.00 surfactant

Parfum 0.50 fragrance

D Sodium Chloride 0.90 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method transparent liquid

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 12 RPM, T: 25°C 1000 - 4000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients from phase A. Add ingredients 4. Add Sodium Chloride during mixing (Add small
from phase A to water (55-60°C). Mix until uniform. portions and dissolve).
Cool the batch down to at least 50°C.
5. If necessary, adjust pH by Lactic Acid to 4.8 – 5.3.
2. Add PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate during mixing.
Mix until uniform. Cool the batch down to at least 30°C.
3. Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Parfum during
mixing. Mix until uniform.

98 Products Dedicated To Babies

SHAMPOO FOR CHILDREN FROM 3 YEARS OLD [KD-37]
PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua up to 100 solvent

Sodium Benzoate,
0.50 preservative
Potassium Sorbate

Betaine 1.00 active

Lactic Acid 0.25 pH adjuster

Benzophenone-4 0.05 UV filter

CI 42090 q.s. colorant

B Ammonium Laureth Sulfate SULFOROKAnol A325/1 30.00 surfactant

C Polyquaternium-7 0.25 conditioner

PEG-120 Methyl
0.50 thickener
Glucose Dioleate

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate ROKAcet KO300G 0.50 surfactant

D Cocamidopropyl Betaine ROKAmina K30K 6.00 surfactant

E Parfum 0.30 fragrance

Sodium Laureth Sulfate,

Cocamide DEA, EXOpearl N 1.00 surfactant
Glycol Distearate

F Sodium Chloride 1.80 thickener

APPEARANCE visual method pearl, light-blue gel

pH 4.8 - 5.3

VISCOSITY [cP] Brookfield LV, spindle 34, speed 2.5 RPM, T: 25°C 3000 - 8000

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, RT, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In a main vessel combine ingredients from phase A. 4. Add slowly Cocoamidopropyl Betaine while mixing.
Heat up to 55-60°C. Mix until uniform. Mix until uniform.
2. Add Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. Mix until uniform. 5. Add ingredients from phase E. Mix until uniform.
3. Add ingredients from phase C. Mix until uniform. Cool 6. Add Sodium Chloride while mixing (Add small portions
the batch down to 30°C. and dissolve).

Personal Care - Formulation Guide 99

ANTIPERSPIRANT [KD-155]

PHASE INCI NAME BRAND NAME CONCENTRATION [%] FUNCTION

A Aqua 80.00 solvent

Hydroxypropyl Starch
1.00 rheology modifier
Phosphate

Cetearyl Alcohol,
B EXOcare TE20 Flakes 5.00 emulsifier
Ceteareth-20

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether ROKAnol SP15L 4.00 emollient

C Aluminum Chlorohydrate 10.00 antiperspirant

APPEARANCE visual method white emulsion

pH 3.5 - 5.0

STABILITY 1 month at 5°C, 20°C, 40°C confirmed

Procedure:
1. In separate vessels combine ingredients from phase A 4. Cool batch down to 30°C while mixing.
and B. Homogenize phase A:1500-2000 RPM 90-120 s.
5. Add phase C ingredient while mixing. Homogenize:
2. Heat phase A and B to 75-80°C. 1500-2000 RPM 90-120 s.
3. Add phase B to A while mixing. Homogenize: 1500-
2000 RPM 90-120 s.

100 Antiperspirants
Personal Care - Formulation Guide 101
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