Modelling of an Ocean wave

Mathematics IA

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Introduction and Rationale 3

Aims and Approaches 4

Data Collection and Results 5

Research and Analysis 5

First approach to modelling curve using FitSin 5
Trigonometric Function approach to modelling 6
Cubic Function to modelling (Part 1) 7
Cubic Function to modelling (Part 2) 8
Three key curve equations 9
Manipulation of Results in Figure. 5A 10
Finding the area of cross-section of wave using: 12
1. Integration under wave 12
2. Trapezium Rule 13

Error and Conclusion 16

Bibliography 17

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Introduction and Rationale
The application of mathematics in real-life has always fascinated me. From a young age, my
experience with maths outside the classroom would be my domain to discover how practical this
subject could be in my day-to-day activities. The best example would be Monopoly, which at the
time was my favourite board game. I would apply 100% of my in-class learning to these family
games.

With my strong affiliation to the ocean, whether I am swimming, standing on a moving board, or
snorkelling in the reef, I live for new scenery. Too many times have I also taken a break from
futile attempts on a challenging maths question to ride a wave, simply to take some time to
consider the problem from a different perspective.

An exciting part of my day that I look forward to practising until flawless would be the various
concocted and perfected tricks on a surfboard. Being quite the suffering connoisseur, I have
always insisted on catching waves which are large enough to stay on for more than fifteen
seconds- which is quite demanding for a single-formed wave.

I must be in position, furiously paddling with my hands in order to correctly flow with the
direction of the tide and movement of the wave to successfully ride along, consequently I must
have the perfect angle and footwork to be able to stand up with no lack of balance. Timing is one
of the most inevitable variables to be able to catch that perfect wave, with this, every wave has
its own timing for a crest to be formed so that a full motion is able to be formed.

In other words, being the professional surfer that I am, it's finally time to apply my interests
forward. Surfing has so many various components and technicalities to incorporate for a full
riding wave to be completed. I simply need only find a mathematical model that I can use to
work out how maths can be applied to a beautiful wave, how a mathematical equation using
quadratics ect, can result in the perfect crest.

Aims and Approaches

As established in the introduction, the aim of this exploration is to successfully apply
mathematics to a modelled curve of a wave in order to calculate its area. This model will explore
the equations used to further calculate the patterns of the curve. Furthermore, reinforced by
calculating the area under the wave through cross-section by tailoring and integrating the results.

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On the mission to precisely recreate a model which will correspond to the conditions under
which I surf, I took my GoPro and went to hit some waves. Resulting in pictures that don't
precisely correspond to the angles which I need in order to correctly model the wave came to be
very disappointing. Having to turn to the last resort, I had no choice but to use secondary data
which I was able to obtain from the Internet.

Approaching this problem, I decided to first outline the given model through plotting points
where I will be calculating the area of the wave. Taking into account the gap of air between the
breaking point of when the wave breaks, I would need to subtract this to precisely calculate this
area.

Due to the failure of a primary data collection of this picture, I would lack environmental
conditions of this wave (E.g Wind speed, current strength, ) which would be taken into account
when calculating the wave's highest potential area in accordance with these factors. For example,
with the data from which this model was taken, I’m able to predict the wave's area of highest
potential capacity due to the facing moon (with a full moon, it creates a high, high tide).

When deciding where I will allocate these plots, I must first outline the top of the wave and then
again under the wave. From personal experience, the forming crest is important because it's the
highest transverse of the wave and it's used in wavelength measurement. This indicates that the
wavelength is able to be calculated through its horizontal distance between two adjacent crests or
troughs- this is a key aspect when calculating the wave area and integration of this data.

Data Collection and Results

Through this investigation, the motive was to explore the mathematical explanations of the
breaking wave, looking closely at the equations of the curves and further solidifying this
development with a final calculation of the area within the wave using integration and the
Trapezium rule.

Modelling the wave had various barriers in order to successfully conclude this investigation.
Firstly, the aim to calculate the curve of the wave as a whole would result in a lack of precise
data and create large space for error due to how the formed crest is breaking, allowing further
calculations to become a lot trickier. The solution to this problem was to divide the curves into
three: the crest, the wave curl, and the trough. This was an excellent solution because it gave way
to further complex calculations using various equations: Trigonometry, Quadratics, and Cubic
functions.

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Research and Analysis

First approach to modelling curve using FitSin

Fig. 1A Trigonometric curve applied to model

With a great start, this investigation was a great opportunity to learn something new from
Geogebra (having never used it before). This figure shows the plotted outline of the modelled
wave, with the application of FitSin, the trigonometric sine curve was built! Having been my
first time modelling a curve I realised that in order to accurately calculate the different curves of
this wave, it would be reasonable to separate the curves so that there would be three different
equations. This figure is not the most accurate model because it doesn’t precisely hit all the
needed points which have resulted in a vague curve of the model.

Fig. 1B Data set input in order to create a modelled curve of Fig. 1A

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Quadratic Function approach to modelling

Fig. 2A Model of Quadratic curve with an addition of a circle to indicate the crest formed

With fewer plotted points to be included during the formation of the quadratic curve, the curves
passed through all plotted points. To some extent, this model is successful in meeting the
requirements of creating a perfect modeled wave however due to lack of preciseness it gives way
to a less accurate investigation.

Fig. 2B Data set of the applied input in order to create a modelled curve of Fig. 2A

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Cubic Function to modelling (Part 1)

Fig. 3A Cubic function applied to the model

Approaching Cubic functions was a great way of learning and playing around with the various
applications of Geogebra. With this figure, we describe the input data in Fig. 3B to be incorrect
due to its inaccuracy to meet the points. However this is a step into the right direction!

Fig. 3B Data set of the applied input with the use of FitPoly in order to create a modelled curve of Fig. 3A

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Cubic Function to modelling (Part 2)

Fig. 4A Cubic function applied to model

Looking closely at Figure. 4A we can conclude that with the change in the degree of Polynomial,
it has accurately modelled the perfect model to the top curve using FitPoly. With this equation,
this investigation will look closely at calculating the area under the curve while also calculating
the free space in order to perfectly conclude exactly what the area of the wave is.

Fig. 4B Data set of the applied input with the use of FitPoly in order to create a modelled curve.

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Three key curve equations

Fig. 5A Shows three important curves in order for an accurate model to be constructed

- Green curve (crest) using Cubic function

- Blue (wave curl) and red curve (trough) is Geometric rule
Though it may have been easier to create one function so that a curve would be able to form the
whole model, to make this investigation as accurate as possible I applied three different curves.
Each one with their own application of data.

Fig. 5B Data set of the applied input in order to create a modelled curve.

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Manipulation of Results in Figure. 5A

Fig. 6 AREA A is the area between K and T under the green line

Point S: (3.77, 2.77)

Point T: (4.47, 2.84)

Fig. 7 AREA B and AREA C are the marked spaces (orange and pink) which mark out the free spaces
which don’t include the body of water, this will be used to subtracted the whole area under the curve.

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The calculations above show:
1. Area A’s (the whole area under crest) results: 13.556m 2
2. Area B’s results: 1.1664m2
3. Area C’s results: 0.8263140667m2
4. Then these result were applied into an equation which would calculate the body of water
(subtracting the free space of air): 11.563m2

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Further areas of Research

Finding the area of cross-section of wave using:

1. Integration under wave

Using Analytical methods (using calculus) to calculate the integration under the top curve of the
model. The results calculated everything under the curve including the free space. With this
cross-sectional study, this investigation is able to further compare the given data between
integration and Trapezium rule which will be investigated on the next page.

2. Trapezium Rule

Fig. 8A Trapezium rule with five sections Fig. 8B Trapezium rule with tem sections

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 Sectioned Area: 5 sections calculated: 10 Sections calculated:

Area A 2.45m2 1.24m2

Area B 2.53m2 1.09m2

Area C 3.36m2 1.15m2

Area D 3.71m2 1.33m2

Area E 2.4m2 1.58m2

Area F 1.81m2

Area G 1.94m2

Area H 1.89m2

Area I 1.6m2

Area J 0.99m2

Total Area: 14.45m2 13.62m2

In comparison to both 5-section and 10-section calculations, this study aimed to compare if a
more refined data set (with 10 sections) rather than a more vague structure of calculations (5
sets) will respond to the same results. Having seen all the data, we can highly agree that with a
more refined set of calculations- the more accurate the conclusion will be.

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On the left shows the calculations for the five section Trapezoid calculations (with h being 1
metres) and on the right shows the ten section calculations (with h being 0.5 metres)

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Error and Conclusion
With all the data which this investigation has gathered and calculated, in order to finalise the
results we must calculate the percentage error in order to sum up our calculations.

Data Sets Results

Total area of the model under the curve (including 13.556m2

free space)

Integration under curve 8.4m2

Trapezium Rule 13.62m2

The calculations on the right-hand side verify the accuracy of

each step this investigation has taken.
The first percentage error resulted in a 38.03% error which isn't
the most precise of the data set however we are able to conclude
that the integration of the total area hasn't resulted in a very
precise resolution. Moreover, the use of the Trapezium rule
which has a 0.47% error can be said to have the greatest
preciseness.
Overall, surfing is always going to be the coolest way to go about
any subject. It's true to say that maths can be applied to any topic
possible. And though this investigation has been enjoyable,
surfing is better.
It's been an adventure trying to process the given model and
finding various curves which I wasn't able to calculate. Though I probably won’t do anything
similar in years to come, I’m proud to have tried my best in order to conclude such an interesting
configuration.
This investigation has changed my perspective of how extensive mathematics can be taken.
Though this is focused on the area and equations of a curving wave- I would like to highlight the
various other mathematical factors which I have learned when taking into consideration the end
of this adventure.

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Bibliography
GeoGebra, “GeoGebra | Free Math Apps - Used by over 100 Million Students & Teachers
Worldwide,” GeoGebra, 2018, https://www.geogebra.org/.

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